Hafler Stereo Amplifier DH 110 User Manual

THE  
PREAMPLIFIER  
DH-110  
INSTRUCTIONS  
for ASSEMBLY  
and OPERATION  
LM132  
Please refer to this serial  
number in all communications  
$3.00  
regarding this equipment.  
THE DAVID HAFLER COMPANY  
5910 Crescent Boulevard, Pennsauken, New Jersey 08109  
DH-110  
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INTRODUCTION  
Precise interchannel balance at all frequencies is main-  
Your preamplifier is the control center of your music  
system, acting as an interface between the sound  
sources-record players, tape recorders, FM and Video  
tuners-and the power amplifier which drives the  
loudspeakers. As the focal point of your system, it should  
be attractive and easy to use, versatile and yet functionally  
unobtrusive. It should contribute a minimum of noise or  
distortion while providing signal amplification, control of  
the signal level, and applicable modification of the fre-  
quency response.  
tained with close tolerance components, and RIAA phono  
equalization is engineered to very narrow limits, maintain-  
ing accurate phase relationships and correct spatial  
perspectives, as well as exceptional unit-to-unit consis-  
tency. The tone controls, which can provide contouring of  
response for individual needs when switched in, are nor-  
mally isolated from the circuit for ruler-flat response.  
The components in the DH-110 have been selected for  
their superb audio performance as well as for their reliabil-  
ity. They have been incorporated in the unique Hafler fully  
complementary symmetry push-pull circuit in a carefully  
designed circuit board layout which reduces crosstalk and  
maintains separation for a synergistic audio result that  
defies comparison, regardless of cost.  
The DH-110 achieves all these objectives with great  
versatility, providing for two record players with magnetic  
cartridges, two tape recorders, a tuner, and an additional stereo  
input for a compact (digital audio) disc player or video audio. It  
also includes inputs and outputs for an external signal processor  
such as a graphic equalizer, time delay device, or noise  
reduction unit. The performance of the DH-110 is exemplary,  
and its assembly from an array of discrete components of  
exceptional quality should ensure reliability and longevity of its  
capabilities.  
Those who have chosen to build the kit will find that its  
step by step instructions will ensure a properly working  
unit even for the novice builder. A substantial amount of  
preassembly has enabled us to check out each kit in nearly  
every aspect of performance, and makes the DH-110 a par-  
ticularly fast, easy and enjoyable construction project,  
which you will likely complete in one evening.  
Exceedingly low noise and distortion is a hallmark of the  
DH-110. Noise is essentially inaudible in the absence of a  
signal, and distortion of all types, both steady state and  
transient, is at or below the threshold of the finest mea-  
surement capabilities. These excellent characteristics are  
maintained far outside the customary 20 Hz to 20 kHz  
band, and signals well beyond that are handled without the  
need to restrict bandwidth.  
We suggest that you read the installation and operation  
sections of this manual carefully, even though much may  
be familiar to you. There are some subtle and significant  
points which may be new, and their proper appreciation  
will enable maximum satisfaction with your DH-110. We  
wish you to have the very best in sound.  
CONTENTS  
Additional Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16  
Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  
Page  
4
Functional Block Diagram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16  
Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  
.5  
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  
Component Values  
Schematic Diagram  
.19  
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20  
.22  
Service and Warranty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23  
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  
Assembly Instructions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7  
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  
.9  
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12  
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15  
Problem Arises  
Building the Kit  
PC-14 Diagrams  
Kit Parts List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  
If  
a
.15  
Pictorial Diagram  
Insert  
Overseas AC Line Connections . . . . . . . . . .  
3
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The Additional Information section of this manual de-  
tails the determination of the loading capacitor for a  
specified cartridge load. It also describes how the resistive  
load of the phono inputs may be changed, if needed, from  
the standard 47K ohms.  
The DH-110 is provided with accessory Rack Mount end  
caps in addition to the standard end caps installed on the  
unit. These accessory caps extend the width of the front  
panel to that of a standard 19” rack, with appropriate  
mounting holes. Installation instructions are detailed later  
in this manual under Additional Information.  
Moving coil design cartridges often require an auxiliary  
step-up transformer or pre-preamplifier (head amplifier)  
because of their low output signal. The DH-110 has provi-  
sion for internal addition of an accessory Hafler pre-  
preamplifer which you or your dealer can install at any  
time. This enables the Phono 1 input to accommodate such  
cartridges directly. The Additional Information describes  
its installation.  
POWER CONNECTIONS  
As assembled, units are normally wired for 120 VAC,  
50-60 Hz, as in the USA, unless they are specially iden-  
tified on the carton. In the Additional Information section  
you will find diagrams of alternate wiring of the power  
transformer to conform to other line voltages.  
The power regulation of the DH-110 will provide full per-  
formance with line voltages which may vary substantially  
from the standard. Units wired for 120 volts, for instance,  
will work properly with line voltages between 95 and 130  
volts.  
Adjacent to the Phono 1 input sockets are two Ground  
terminals on the back panel. These thumbscrews provide  
for connection of separate ground wires often provided on  
turntables, or as part of their audio cables. This ‘chassis  
ground’ may sometimes reduce the hum level of a system  
when it is connected to an earth ground, such as a cold  
water pipe, or the ground wire of 3-wire house wiring.  
However, the need for such connection varies with indi-  
vidual situations. After the system is operative, using a  
phono source, experiment with and without an earth  
ground to determine which provides the lowest hum, and  
use that.  
Accessory AC outlets are provided on the back panel for  
other equipment. One unswitched outlet is provided for a  
turntable or tape recorder whose mechanical system may  
require disengagement through its own power switch.  
Most units, including power amplifiers, tuners, and many  
tape recorders and record players, may be connected to  
the switched outlets for convenient remote switching from  
the preamp’s front panel. The DH-110 power switch has  
been tested to provide adequate capacity for any Hafler  
power amplifier and typical related equipment. You should  
heed the maximum power rating printed on the back panel  
of the unit.  
IMPUTS-Tuner,  
CD/Video  
These are high level (line-50 millivolts or more) signals  
from FM, AM or TV tuners, or compact digital audio disc,  
video disc, or VCR players. These inputs are grounded at the  
selector switch when they are not chosen for listening. The input  
impedance is approximately 33K ohms.  
INPUTS-Magnetic  
Phono  
There are two pairs of phono inputs, identified as Phono  
and Phono 2. These are independent, and thus they may  
1
have different capacitive termination for differing car-  
tridge requirements. As assembled, Phono 1 is provided  
with a compensation capacitor of 120 picofarads, and  
Phono 2 is provided with 220 picofarads. One of these val-  
ues will accommodate most ‘Moving magnet’ cartridges.  
These have output levels intended for normal phono in-  
puts (0.5 millivolts per centimeter or higher) and are the  
most popular. Some high output ‘moving coil’ design car-  
tridges are not sensitive to capacitive loading, so they may  
be used with either input.  
INPUTS-Tape 1, Tape 2  
These are at line level and impedance. They connect to  
Tape Play outputs on the tape deck. They are not grounded  
when unused, since they can be connected by either the  
main selector switch or the Tape Monitor switch. They are  
terminated with 1 megohm resistors to avoid a possible  
switching transient.  
RECORDING OUTPUTS  
These connect to the Line Inputs of tape decks. The two  
pairs of outputs are wired in parallel. Thus two tape recor-  
ders receive identical signals. These outputs are buffered  
with a series resistor, and have an output impedance of  
1.5K ohms. To provide full specification performance, the  
total tape recorder load should not be lower than 10K ohms  
(i.e. two 20k ohm recorder inputs on each channel).  
Though some phono cartridges are comparatively free  
of loading sensitivity, if the cartridge manufacturer  
specifies the proper load capacitance (which is the sum of  
the preamp’s internal capacitance, and the cables you use,  
as well as the above described capacitor), the most accu-  
rate sound will be obtained by following that recommenda-  
tion. If you have chosen the DH-110 for its sonic attributes,  
you will be more likely than most to be aware of these dif-  
ferences, and will want proper cartridge termination.  
Because it is possible that a preamplifier’s overall per-  
formance may be adversely affected by rectification ef-  
4
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fects that can result from unpowered electronic circuits in  
the tape decks when they are connected to the Recording  
Outputs, it is recommended that tape recorders be  
switched on when the preamplifier is in use. This is a  
commonly overlooked cause of less-than-ideal  
preamplifier performance.  
which is otherwise a possibility. We recommend that you  
turn off power amplifiers before connecting headphones,  
or that they be plugged in before the system is switched on,  
as a precaution.  
The Direct outputs provide conventional signal levels  
independent of the headphone circuit. If headphones are  
plugged in, the level of the Direct output will be greatly  
reduced. These outputs should not be used when head-  
phone use is anticipated.  
Signals at these outputs are at line input level (phono  
signals are first amplified and equalized). These outputs  
are unaffected by external processing circuits, or by the  
DH-110’s Mono, Filter, Tone or Volume controls. Only sig-  
nals indicated by the Selector switch are available, includ-  
ing the other tape input, so tape copying is provided using  
The performance specifications will be met so long as  
the input impedance of the power amplifier is 10K ohms or  
higher, and the cable capacitance is less than 1Onf. This is  
no problem with typical interconnecting cables up to 10  
feet. If you are planning to use very long cables between  
preamp and power amplifier, special low capacitance cable  
can be obtained.  
either recorder as  
a
source.  
LINE OUTPUTS  
Two pairs of outputs are provided for your power  
amplifier connection. The set labelled ‘Via Phones’ is  
suggested for those who regularly listen through head-  
phones as an alternative. These are wired so that when  
headphones are plugged in, the signal is disconnected from  
the power amplifier. Two purposes are thus served. Since  
many headphones require fairly high volume control set-  
tings, you avoid inadvertent high signal levels to your  
speakers. And a power amplifier which is turned off can-  
not degrade the quality of signal to the headphones-  
EXTERNAL PROCESSING LOOP  
‘Send’ is an output at line level for the purpose of driving  
an external signal processor such as an equalizer, time  
delay, or noise reduction unit. Like the recording outputs,  
the load impedance should not be less than 10K ohms. The  
EPL ‘Return’ input impedance is 33K ohms, and should  
also be at line level. The EPL Return can also function as  
an additional high level input, switched from the front  
panel.  
OPERATION  
When you turn on the DH-110, power is also applied to  
the switched AC outlets on the back panel. One of the red  
LEDs on the front panel will light, indicating that the  
preamp is functioning. Typically, it will be the left-most  
LED, indicating that the Selector switch is determining  
the signal source. At turn-off, it is normal for the LED to  
fade slowly as the operating voltages decline.  
duplicated by selecting the playback tape recorder on the  
Selector switch, and recording on the second machine.  
PHONO AMPLIFIER  
The button in the lower left of the front panel selects  
either Phono 1 (in the OUT position) or Phono 2. The  
switch may be operated to compare two cartridges while  
music is playing, but if them is no cartridge connected to  
one input, noise or RF interference may cause a small au-  
dible transient. The phono signal is accurately RIAA  
equalized and amplified 34dB (at 1kHz), then passed to the  
Selector switch at line level.  
DELAYED TURN-ON  
An internal muting circuit prevents the voltage tran-  
sients which may occur at turn-on or turn-off from causing  
annoying noises, blown fuses or damaged loudspeakers.  
MONITOR SWITCH  
At turn-on, the Line Outputs (but not the Recording  
Outputs or EPL Send output) will be held near ground po-  
tential for a few seconds until the internal voltages have  
stabilized, and the unit is ready for operation. Only a faint  
output can be heard during this time.  
To facilitate tape recording with tape decks which pro-  
vide an independent monitoring facility, the DH-110 pro-  
vides this second selection function. When it is OFF, the  
regular Selector switch determines what signals are heard.  
When the Monitor switch is turned to either Tape 1 or Tape  
2, the line amplifier is quietly disconnected from the signal  
being recorded, and is connected to the tape playback in-  
stead. This enables direct comparison of the signal source  
with the taped replica, without affecting the recording pro-  
cess. Tape decks which do not provide separate record and  
playback heads are not able to utilize this comparison.  
At turn-off, whether by operating the preamp’s power  
switch, or as  
a
result of external AC failure (a ‘brown-out’,  
pulled plug, or blown house fuse), the line output will be  
instantaneously lowered. Following power interruption,  
the muting circuit will initiate a few seconds delay before  
allowing full signal at the line outputs.  
Note: Do not turn the Monitor switch to Tape 1 if the  
Selector is also set to Tape 1. Likewise avoid simultaneous  
Tape 2 settings on both switches. Feedback will occur, and  
there is a possibility of damage.  
When the Monitor switch is not in the OFF position, the  
LED at the Monitor switch will light, in place of the Selec-  
tor LED, reminding you that tape playback has been  
selected.  
SIGNAL SELECTION  
Your choice of signal sources is usually indicated by the  
Selector Switch, identified by the adjacent lighted LED.  
This switch passes line level signals direct to the Record-  
ing Outputs and to the EPL Send output as well as to the  
Mono switch and subsequent line amp controls. Either or  
both tape recorders may record this source. Tapes may be  
5
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The following controls affect all signals which are  
heard through speakers or headphones. They have  
no effect on the signals to the recording outputs.  
will be heard with the control fully counterclockwise, and  
only the Right signal at the other extreme.  
The ideal situation would find symmetry in room acous-  
tics and in the electronics, but this realization is rare.  
Stereo reproduction is, at best, a splendid illusion, and the  
function of the Balance control is to optimize this illusion  
in the listening space. Sound wave reflections from walls,  
furniture and people can unbalance the stereo ‘stage’. With  
judicious application of the balance control, much of the  
attendant distortion of stereo imaging can be overcome.  
With the preamplifier in the Mono mode, it will be easier to  
use the Balance control to centrally position the apparent  
MONO SWITCH  
When this button is IN, left and right channel informa-  
tion is combined, and the composite signal is fed to both  
left and right outputs. In this mode the sound image should  
appear to be centrally located between the loudspeakers.  
Critical listeners sometimes choose the mono mode for  
system evaluation, for it enables you to isolate system re-  
sponse from the complexity of stereo effects. This switch  
is also useful when listening to monophonic program mate-  
rial. It cancels the unwanted vertical phonograph modula-  
tions which are heard as noise from monaural records.  
sound source. This mono setting can then serve as  
a
useful  
reference point, though the appropriate balance setting  
may vary from recording to recording in the stereo mode.  
FILTER SWITCH  
Our point is that Balance and Tone controls are intended  
to facilitate the most satisfying sound to the listener; it is  
appropriate that they be used to this end.  
This is a low frequency cutoff to remove much of the  
signal below 25 Hz, such as noise, turntable rumble, or  
loudspeaker-turntable feedback. Even in cases where the  
speakers may have little response at these frequencies,  
this filter can be useful. Very low frequencies can modulate  
audible midband signals, so eliminating this interference  
can improve overall clarity.  
BASS and TREBLE CONTROLS  
The Tone Switch must be IN for these controls to be ef-  
fective. At full rotation, each control provides about 17 dB  
of boost (clockwise), or cut (counterclockwise) at the fre-  
quency extremes from the center ‘flat’ (detent) position.  
Note: The Filter button should be OUT when the DH-110  
is turned ON to avoid a switching transient during the first  
minute of operation. If it is IN at turn-on, wait one minute  
before releasing it.  
The Bass control has a variable inflection, or ‘hinge’  
point so that only the very low frequencies are affected by  
small amounts of rotation either side of center. This facili-  
tates low frequency corrections without noticeably alter-  
ing the musical balance, but speakers with diminished low  
frequency response will not reflect small angular move-  
ments from the detent. As the control is turned further,  
frequencies closer to 500 Hz are affected, so the effect is  
more apparent.  
EPL SWITCH  
This is the External Processor Loop. Engaging this  
switch enables a signal processing device to be inserted in  
the preamplifier signal path. Such devices include equaliz-  
ers, time delays or ambience simulators, expanders, com-  
pressors, and noise reduction systems. Since the switch  
permits bypassing the processor loop, an unpowered de-  
vice in the EPL circuit will not deteriorate the DH-110 per-  
formance, as might be the case with switched-off tape  
decks in the Record Outputs. The EPL switch can also  
function as an additional input selection.  
The Treble control has a fixed ‘hinge’ point at 1kHz and  
has a ‘shelving’ action above 5kHz. This affords proper  
correction without irritation from excessive boost at the  
extreme.  
TONE SWITCH  
VOLUME CONTROL  
Until this button is depressed, all tone control circuitry  
is completely removed from the signal path. Activating  
this button may cause a slight change in the tonal balance  
even when both Bass and Treble controls are in their me-  
dian (detent) position. Potentiometer tolerances preclude  
coincident mechanical and electrical centering. The tone  
control circuitry limits, to an extent, the total bandpass of  
the DH-110.  
This step action control was selected for its very accu-  
rate tracking between channels, and for its low contact dis-  
tortion. Clockwise from the 12 o’clock position it increases  
in increments of roughly 1 dB. From 12 o’clock coun-  
terclockwise it progresses in increasing increments to full  
attenuation.  
HEADPHONE JACK  
A 3-circuit shorting jack is connected so that the tip is  
the left channel, in series with one set of line outputs, so  
that the power amplifier is automatically disconnected  
when the headphones are plugged in. We recommend that  
you turn off the power amplifier before you connect head-  
phones, or that they be plugged in before the preamplifier  
is turned on, to guard against needless transients. Be sure  
the volume is turned down before headphones are discon-  
nected.  
Operation of the Tone button will be silent if it is depressed  
in a natural, deliberate manner. Rapid switching may gen-  
erate small transient pulses.  
BALANCE CONTROL  
This adjusts the proportion of left and right channel sig-  
nals to the Line outputs. In its detented center position the  
channels will be matched to ±0.1 dB. Only the Left signal  
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because he may not wait long enough for it to reach operat-  
ing temperature each time it is switched on, poor solder  
connections are more likely. Pencil irons are much lighter  
and easier to use, and there is no waiting time when solder  
connections follow in sequence, as in kit building. Make  
sure you have a holder for it, though, and always unplug it  
when you take a break.  
There are three basic rules for success in electronic kit  
building:  
1: Read the instructions carefully, and follow them in or-  
der.  
2. Make secure solder connections which are bright and  
smooth.  
3. Check your work carefully after each step.  
Proper Soldering  
The DH-110 preamplifier is a versatile component with  
sophisticated circuitry which has been made remarkably  
easy to build by individuals with many years of experience  
in the design and engineering of the finest performing  
audio kits, and in the preparation of their manuals.  
There are four steps to make a good solder connection:  
1 .  
Make a good mechanical connection to hold the wire in  
position while heat and solder is applied.  
2 . Heat the junction of the wire and lug, or eyelet, with the  
bright, shiny tip of the iron.  
Kit building should be fun, and we am certain you will  
find this to be so. Fatigue increases the risk of error, so  
take a break rather than push to early completion. There  
are relatively few separate components in this design, to  
make it easy to pack everything away, if need be.  
3. After heating for a couple of seconds, apply solder to  
the junction. It should melt immediately and flow  
smoothly around both surfaces.  
4. Allow the connection to cool undisturbed.  
Your work area should have good lighting and the proper  
tools. The tools should include:  
Remember that the connection is made by the solder,  
not by mechanically attaching the wire to the terminal.  
Usually the wire is looped through the lug and crimped in  
place, but some prefer to just place it through the hole and  
rely on the stiffness of the wire to hold it while soldering.  
Eyelet connections, of course, are handled this way.  
1 . A 40 to 60 watt pencil soldering iron with a 3/16" or smal-  
ler tip which reaches 700°F  
2. 60/40 (60% tin) ROSIN CORE solder, l/16” diameter or  
smaller.  
3. A damp sponge or cloth to wipe the hot tip of the iron.  
Good solder connections are essential for trouble-free,  
noise-free operation. A good solder joint does not require  
much solder around the conductors. Never “butter” par-  
tially melted solder on the joint, as it is useless. A good  
connection looks smooth and bright because the solder  
flows into every crevice when the parts am hot enough.  
The iron must have a bright, shiny tip to transfer heat eas-  
ily to the junction. That’s why the damp sponge should be  
used frequently to wipe the tip, and occasionally you must  
add a small amount of solder to the tip, too. If a connection  
is difficult to heat, “wet” the tip with a small blob of solder  
to provide a bigger contact surface to the joint. Once the  
solder flows around the conductors, any movement must  
be avoided for a few seconds to allow a good bond. When  
cool, check the connection by wiggling the wire. If in  
doubt, or if the connection is not shiny, m-heat the joint.  
4. A wire stripping tool for removing insulation. This can  
be a single-edge razor blade, but inexpensive stripping  
tools are safer, faster and easier.  
5. A medium-blade screwdriver (about l/4” wide).  
6. Needle-nose pliers (a long, narrow tip).  
7. Diagonal or side-cutting small pliers.  
8. Large “gas” or “slip-joint” pliers.  
9. A l/4” “Spin-tite” nut driver may be helpful, but is not  
necessary.  
A soldering “gun” is not recommended. The unfamiliar  
user is more likely to damage the etched circuit boards  
with its higher heat potential and unbalanced weight. Also,  
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Wiring the Kit  
Excess solder may be removed from a connection by heat-  
ing it and allowing the solder to flow onto the iron, which is  
then wiped on the sponge.  
If any components are unfamiliar to you, checking the  
pictorial diagram should quickly identify them. Or, the  
quantities, and the process of elimination as you check the  
parts list, will help. The pictorial diagram is necessarily  
distorted to some extent for clarity, so that you can trace  
every wire in a single overall view for verification as you  
work.  
ALL SOLDER USED MUST BE ROSIN CORE  
Never use acid core solder or any separate flux in elec-  
tronic work. Silver solder is also not suitable. If in doubt  
about unmarked solder, always obtain a fresh supply of  
rosin core solder. We recommend 60/40 for easiest use. Do  
not confuse it with 40/60, which is harder to melt.  
To “prepare” a wire means to cut the designated length  
from the length of that color, and strip about l/4” of insula-  
tion from each end. The wire supplied in the kit is #18 and  
#22, so you can set adjustable wire-strippers accordingly.  
The transformer leads are #18, and the line cord is #16. Be  
careful that you do not nick the wire when you strip it (that  
can happen more easily if you do not use wire strippers) for  
that weakens it. The wire supplied in this kit is “bonded  
stranded,” which provides exceptional flexibility with re-  
sistance to breakage for easier use.  
The general procedure is to use a hot iron for a short time  
to heat a connection, then add solder with the iron still in  
contact. Remove the solderonce it flows, and then remove  
the iron. A cooler iron applied for a longer time is more  
likely to damage components, or lift the copper circuit pat-  
tern from the boards. A break in the etched circuit can be  
mended by simply soldering a small piece of wire across it.  
Do not allow much build-up of solder on the tip of the iron,  
or it may fall onto adjacent circuitry and cause a short cir-  
cuit.  
Whenever a connection is to be soldered, the instruc-  
tions will so state, or indicate by the symbol (S). If more  
than one wire is to be soldered to the same point, they will  
be indicated by (S-2), (S-3), etc. If soldering is not called  
for, other connections have yet to be made to that termi-  
nal. They would be more difficult if the connection was al-  
ready soldered. Every connection in the kit will be sol-  
dered when it is complete. After soldering a connection, it  
is best to clip off any excess lead length to minimize the  
possibility of a short circuit, and for neatness.  
When soldering to an eyelet or hole on the board, insert  
the wire from the components side, and apply the iron to  
the bottom, leaving some bare wire exposed so that you  
can see that the eyelet is then filled with solder for a secure  
bond. A round wooden toothpick is suggested so that you  
can heat and clear an eyelet of solder if it hinders your in-  
serting the wire. Some builders prefer to clear every eyelet  
first with a touch of the iron and toothpick. Others connect  
the lead by bringing it up to the center of the eyelet on top  
of the board, applying the iron from the bottom of the  
board, and pushing the lead in as the solder in the eyelet  
melts. If the wire has first been “tinned,” usually no addi-  
tional solder is necessary, but it is a good practice to push  
the wire through, and then back it up a bit, to be sure solder  
fills the eyelet. On the bottom of the board, make certain a  
bright, shiny flow is evident from the wire onto the circuit  
pattern on the board.  
Be sure that uninsulated wires cannot touch adjacent  
terminals or the chassis metalwork.  
When the instructions call for twisting two or three  
wires together, the length of wire indicated anticipates a  
fairly tight, uniform twist by hand, of three full turns every  
two inches. If you find the wires too short, loosening the  
twist will gain some needed length.  
Take the time to be accurate and neat, and you can be  
sure that your completed preamplifier will meet the per-  
formance of a factory assembled unit, and can continue to  
perform properly for years to come. Check your work, and  
make sure the entire step has been completed before plac-  
ing a check mark in the space provided, and continuing on  
to the next step.  
“Tinning” refers to the process of applying a light coat-  
ing of solder to the bared wire end. This keeps all the  
strands secured, and also makes a good connection easier.  
Simply touch the wire with the iron for a couple seconds,  
and apply solder. Allow the excess to flow away onto the  
iron. When properly done, the wire is uniformly bright,  
and no larger than before. The hookup wire supplied with  
this kit does not normally need tinning, for it is pre-tinned.  
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BUILDING THE KIT  
6
Select the power switch and two #4 screws. Install  
the switch above the headphone jack so that the  
body of the switch is offset to the outer edge of the  
panel.  
Partial mechanical assembly of the kit provides protec-  
tion for major components during shipment. Most of the  
hardware thus used is included in the quantities listed in  
the parts list. The exception is that used to install the rear  
mounting bracket on the PC-14, as this is considered an in-  
tegral assembly. Only the two screws securing the bracket  
to the side pieces need be removed, along with the  
hardware securing the front sub-panel. Dismount the  
power transformer and remove the side pieces.  
7
Select the main PC-14 circuit board assembly, with  
the fuse in place, and the rear bracket installed, and  
a rubber grommet in the bracket. Select the 6 larger  
nuts and washers for securing the controls to the  
front sub-panel. The two largest sets are used for the  
selector switches; the volume control is the smallest  
size, next to the power switch; the 3 other sets go on  
the 3 central control shafts. Be sure all the locating  
lugs on the controls engage the holes in the panel be-  
fore securing the hardware. The wires from the  
phone jack go under the board. Push the ends of the  
wires through the grommet.  
A “set” of hardware includes a screw and a KEP nut  
with attached lockwasher. Always install the lockwasher  
side first. Screws are always inserted from the outside of  
the chassis unless otherwise specified. #4 hardware is  
smaller in diameter than #6. To separate #4 nuts from the  
#6s, use a long #4 screw to test.  
We suggest you check off the parts as you unpack the  
kit, and separate them in an egg carton for convenience.  
8
Select the small circuit board assembly PC-13 and  
two #4 screws. With the circuit board uppermost,  
position the assembly at the top of the large front  
panel opening so that the sockets on the board align  
with the pins from below, and plug the board down-  
ward onto the pins. Make sure each pin is properly  
engaged. Secure the assembly with screws through  
the panel.  
1
The flanges of the front sub-panel bend towards the  
inside of the preamp. Select the U-shaped head-  
phone jack mounting bracket and 2 sets of #4  
hardware. Install the mounting bracket on the out-  
side of the front panel, in front of the rectangular  
hole in the lower right comer.  
Set the front panel aside, and select the PC-12 circuit board.  
2
Select the headphone jack, its washer and nut.  
Install it through the front panel with the single lug at  
the bottom. The washer goes outside the bracket,  
secured by the nut.  
The front of the board marks the component locations, and “J”  
designations. Most components mount on the front. Always  
install them tight against the board, and solder each lead on the  
back (circuit) side. Then cut off all excess leads.  
3
4
Prepare a 2” black wire. Connect one end to the  
lower forward lug of the headphone jack. (S). Place  
this wire through the panel.  
9
Select the two 22,100 ohm resistors (red, red,  
brown, red) and install them at locations R50 and  
R150.  
Select the two 1,100 ohm resistors (brown, brown,  
black, brown) and install them at R21 and R121.  
Install the four 1 megohm resistors (brown, black,  
black, yellow) at locations R22, R23, R122 and  
R123.  
Prepare a 14½” green wire, but strip 3/8” of insulation  
from one end. Prepare a 14½” red wire. Prepare a 14½”  
black wire. Start with the red wire ¼longer than the  
longer bare end of the green wire, and the black wire ½”  
shorter than the green wire. Twist these 3 wires together  
uniformly throughout their length. Make about 3 com-  
plete twists every two inches. On the rear of the phone  
jack 8 numbered positions identify the 6 lugs in a counter-  
clockwise rotation, with the #2 lug at the bottom (in line  
with the front lug), and the #6 lug at the top. Insert the  
longer bared end of the green wire through the #8 lug and  
connect it to lug #7. Solder both lugs. Connect the red  
wire to lug #6. (S).  
10  
11  
12 Select the two 4-pin molded sockets. These are to be  
installed at locations J26 and 5126 on the front of the  
board, with the pins through the upper row of holes  
(arrow) at each location. The lower row of holes  
provides access from the rear of the board for plug-in  
capacitors. lb assure correct alignment of the sock-  
et, insert a capacitor lead from the rear into holes E,  
F, G and H to engage the sockets while you solder  
the pins, and then remove the capacitors. Be sure  
solder flows freely around each mounting pin for a  
good connection. Sometimes these pins do not ac-  
cept solder easily.  
5
Prepare another 14%” green wire with3/8”stripped from  
one end. Prepare one end of a 14½” black wire. Do not  
strip the other end. Prepare another 14½” red wire. Start  
with the longer green wire end ¼” longer than the red  
wire, and the bare end of the black wire ½” shorter than  
the red wire. Twist these together as before. Insert the  
longer end of the green wire through lug #3 of the phone  
jack and connect it to lug #4. Solder both lugs. Connect  
the red wire to lug #2. (S).  
13  
The proper way to install the 24 phono input sockets  
is to first insert a phono plug (on the end of one of the  
audio connecting cables supplied in the kit) so that  
the center contact will not be deformed in the  
mounting process. Adjacent to the center hole for  
9
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each socket, the board is marked to indicate the side of  
the hole on which the center mounting tab should be  
positioned, so that it will be soldered to the widest part of  
the circuitry on the back side. Leave the phono plug in the  
socket while bending and soldering is completed. If you  
do not bend the center tab quite flat against the board, it is  
easier for solder to flow under the tab for a good connec-  
tion. Solder both outer socket lugs first (they need not be  
bent over), and then the center tab on each socket. At J9  
be careful that a solder bridge is not made between the  
center contact and the adjacent circuit track. Be sure  
holes Q and S are not filled with solder when installing  
Then grip the larger portion of the strain relief with  
the tips of the pliers, squeeze it tightly, and insert the  
end of the cord and the strain relief through the panel  
hole from the outside. Note that the hole has a flat on  
one side, and the strain relief is installed so that the  
cord is horizontal.  
This is the most difficult step in the kit. Patience, and  
a friend’s help, if available, will make this job easier.  
Safety requirements dictate that this be a tight fit.  
Some persons might find it helpful to bolt on a side  
piece (with the flanges out) to add rigidity to the  
back panel, as well as a support to press against the  
back panel while you squeeze the strain relief and  
pull the line cord through. The fixture snaps into pos-  
ition when it is fully inserted. Remove the side piece  
if you attached it.  
sockets J 11 and J  
1
1
1. A wooden toothpick will keep  
them open.  
14  
Select the two right angle 15-pin plugs, and install  
their shorter pins at locations J22 and J24 at the top  
of the board, so that the bent pins point toward the  
upper edge. Be sure these sockets are tight against  
the board, and make certain that every pin connec-  
tion is properly soldered. Examine each connection  
closely to make sure there are no solder bridges  
between the tracks.  
20  
Select the power transformer and 2 sets of #6  
hardware. Install the transformer next to the line  
cord so that the leads are in the lower comer below  
the strain relief.  
21  
Select the 4 AC sockets. Snap these into the back  
panel holes from the outside.  
15  
Prepare a 1” piece of green wire, and form it into a ½”  
wide “U”. This wire connects on the back of the  
board between holes A and B. Allow this wire to sit a  
bit above the board, as it is a jumper which you may  
wish to remove at some future date, if you install a  
pre-preamplifier for a moving coil cartridge. After  
soldering be sure you cut off any excess wire on the  
front, so it cannot short to the input socket.  
22  
Select the PC-12 circuit board assembly and the 2 flat  
cable interconnecting assemblies. Plug one end of  
each cable onto the pin connectors at the top of the  
board so the cables extend past the back of the  
board. The marked edge of the cable is not signifi-  
cant. Now check socket J1 to make sure it does not  
contact the stub of wire at hole A.  
16  
Prepare a 1” piece of red wire, and form it into a “U”  
as before. Connect it in like manner to holes C and D  
on the back of the board.  
17 Select the two 10,000 pF capacitors and install them  
on the front of the board at locations C1 and C101.  
18  
19  
Select the 2 long bright screws, the 2 lockwashers,  
and two of the spacers. Place a lockwasher over  
each screw first, and insert the screw from the back  
(circuit side) of the board into one of the mounting  
holes next to the rear jumpers. Add a spacer on the  
components side, and tighten it. Set the completed  
board assembly aside.  
Select the back panel, the AC line cord, and the plas-  
tic strain relief. Separate the two conductors at the  
end of the cord for 2”. Cut 3/4" off of one conductor.  
Strip both ends the usual ¼", and tin the strands to  
secure them. Six inches from the longer end make a  
sharp V in the cord by bending it back on itself.  
Install the strain relief as shown in the drawing. The  
small end of the strain relief is nearest the stripped  
ends. Crimp the two halves of the strain relief  
together around the cord with heavy pliers to par-  
tially form it before insertion into the back panel.  
10  
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23  
Select the 6 black 5/8"screws, the 6 spacers, and 6  
small nuts. Insert the screws from the outside of the  
back panel at the locations nearer the center of the  
panel (not in the end holes marked “Grounds”).  
Install a spacer on each screw and tighten them.  
Place the PC-12 assembly in position so that its two  
screws pass through the end holes. Install the nuts  
on the black screws, and tighten them.  
34  
35  
Plug the two flat wire assemblies onto the pin con-  
nectors on PC-14.  
Prepare a 1%” piece of white wire. Connect one end  
to the rear lug of the power switch. (S). Connect the  
other end to eyelet Y of PC-14, nearest the fuse. (S).  
All eyelet connections should be soldered on the  
bottom of the board for secure connections.  
24  
Select the 2 small nuts and the 2 knurled thumb nuts.  
Install a nut on each of the Ground screws, making  
sure the lockwasher surface is tight against the  
panel. It must cut through the painted surface to  
make a chassis ground connection . Then add the  
thumb nuts.  
36  
q
Select the white wire from the tear grommet. Con-  
nect it to eyelet W on PC-14. (S).  
37 Select the blue wire from the grommet. Connect it to  
the side lug of the power switch. (S).  
38  
Select the yellow wire. Connect it to eyelet T on  
PC-14. (S).  
25 With a pair of pliers, carefully twist the 8 lugs on the  
AC outlets counter-clockwise l/6 turn, or about 60º.  
This will enable a wire to be passed horizontally  
through these lugs.  
The transformer leads may be shortened as desired for  
neatness, but if there is any possibility that the transformer  
may be connected for a different line voltage for use out-  
side the USA, be sure to leave each lead long enough for  
any alternative connection. We suggest that these leads be  
made just long enough that they can be twisted together for  
neatness, and placed outside the end piece where they can  
be later secured with a wire tie.  
26  
Cut a 2¼” piece of the bare buss wire. Slide it  
through lug #2 of AC outlet B and connect it to lug  
#l and to lug #3. Solder lugs 1 and 2.  
27  
Cut a 3%” length of bare wire. Slide it through AC  
outlet lugs #6 and #7, and connect it to lug #5 and to  
lug #8. Solder lugs 5,6 and 7.  
39  
40  
Connect the Red-Yellow lead to eyelet A in the tear  
comer of PC-14. (S).  
28 Prepare a 13” length of white wire. Connect one end  
to AC outlet C, lug #3. (S-2). Place this wire over the  
top of the transformer.  
Connect the two Red leads to eyelets B and C along  
the rear edge of the board. Solder both.  
29 Prepare a 13” blue wire. Connect one end to outlet D  
lug #4. Place this and the following wire over the  
transformer.  
For 120 volt wiring as in the USA, the following lead con-  
nections are to be used. Refer to the alternative line vol-  
tage diagrams in the manual for other line voltages.  
30  
31  
Prepare a 12½” length of yellow wire. Connect one  
end to outlet D lug #8.  
41  
Connect each lead as follows and solder:  
Brown/White to eyelet D  
Black/White to eyelet E  
Brown/Red to eyelet F  
Select the two side pieces, the rubber grommet, and  
4 sets of #6 hardware. Install the grommet in the side  
piece location adjacent to the power transformer  
when the flanges bend towards the outside of the  
unit. Before bolting this piece in position, pass the  
line cord through the grommet from the outside, and  
under the transformer. From the inside thread the 3  
wires which come from the AC outlets and over the  
top of the transformer out through the grommet.  
Fasten both side pieces to the back panel.  
Black/Red to eyelet M  
Brown to eyelet R  
Black to eyelet  
S
42 Connect the short black wire from the forward lug of  
the phone jack to eyelet G2. (S).  
43  
There are two groups of wires connected to the  
phone jack under PC-14. The red and green wires  
which connect to lugs 2 and 3 (these ate the lower  
lugs, adjacent to the circuit board edge) are to be  
connected to the upper (left channel) holes P and Q  
on the back panel circuit board PC-12, adjacent to  
the line outputs. Make certain you have the correct  
group. The black wire is not connected to the board.  
Instead, keep it twisted with the other wires until it  
is close to the board, then wrapped tightly around  
the red and green pair. Make sure no bare wine pro-  
trudes from the black insulation. Connect the red  
32  
33  
Connect the shorter line cord conductor to outlet D  
lug #8. (S-3). Connect the other conductor to lug  
#4. (S-2).  
Join the front and rear halves of the preamp so that  
the tabs on the main board rear bracket ate outside  
the side pieces. Select 2 sheet metal screws and fas-  
ten the bracket tabs to the side pieces.  
1 1  
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PHONO  
LEFT  
0
RIGHT  
n
n
I’  
,
I
SELECTOR  
MONITOR  
TONE  
PHONO  
K
s 3  
FLAT  
ROUND  
D13  
D14  
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HT  
LEFT LINE  
0109  
0107  
c21  
- M l -  
c34  
C32  
C36  
0 0  
Cl9  
I
VOLUME  
L
R26  
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wire to hole Q, which is between the center lugs of  
Jll and 512. (S). The wire should not protrude sig-  
nificantly beyond the front surface of the board to  
avoid coming in contact with a connector. To assure  
a good solder connection, bare wire should be visi-  
ble on the circuit side of the board. Connect the  
green wire to hole P in like manner. (S).  
cap into the slots of the front panel. Select the 4 cap  
screws and nuts, and secure the end caps with the  
large Allen wrench.  
53  
Install the appropriate loading capacitors at the pairs  
of holes identified E, F, G and H below the phono  
input sockets on the back panel board. The correct  
choice is discussed in the Additional Information  
section of this manual. In lieu of more specific in-  
formation, we suggest the 120 pF values at E and G  
for Phono 1, and the 220 pF values at F and H for  
Phono 2. Bend one lead around the capacitor so it is  
parallel with the lead at the opposite end. The leads  
should extend more than 1%” from the body, but must  
44  
45  
At the rear of the phone jack, connect the black wire  
from the first group (lugs 2 and 3) to PC14 eyelet G3.  
(S).  
Select the other group of three wires, and connect the  
black wire to PC- 12 hole T. (S). Connect the red wire to  
hole S between Jl 11 and J112. (S). Connect the green  
wire to hole R. (S). Make sure the wires do not protrude  
significantly beyond the outside surface of the board.  
not be longer than  
or they might touch the metal  
back panel. Plug each into adjacent pairs of holes.  
Now check to make sure that there are no strands of power  
transformer leads, or the line cord, that are unsoldered. Where  
the line cord passes under the transformer, make sure it is  
clear of the screw hole in the back panel flange. Check that a  
46  
47  
Connect the black wire of the second group to PC14  
eyelet G1. (S).  
1/10 ampere  
fuse is installed in the PC-14 clips, and  
that the Red/Yellow transformer lead connects to the corner  
eyelet A.  
Select the 2 red LEDs. To install these with correct  
polarity, observe the tiny ‘flat’ on the LED flange which  
marks the cathode lead. This must he towards the near  
end of the PC- 14 board, or Phono switch S 1, when the  
LED is attached to the front, near the edge. When the  
nipple of the LED is pointed toward you, with the flat on  
the left, bend the leads (together, with long-nosed pliers)  
upward at a right angle, so the bend will be 7/10” from the  
back surface of the LED (about ¾”). Solder the LEDs to  
the front holes on the under side of PC-14 with the bent  
portion of the leads emerging on the top side. Each LED  
protrudes through the front sub-panel hole. Solder both  
leads on each LED.  
54 q A wire tie can secure the transformer leads to the  
side piece through the slot behind the PC-14 bracket.  
These ties can be used only once, and lock securely  
when the tail is pushed through the head end from  
the flat side. Cut off the excess after pulling it tight.  
55  
The two groups of output leads from the phone jack  
should be positioned at least 1” in from the side  
piece, and straight to the rear of the PC-14 board;  
then kept close to the bracket. A wire tie is  
suggested at the rear comer. You may wish to use the  
3rd tie on the wiring to the AC sockets, or on the  
output leads near the back panel.  
48 Cut two ½”lengths of the black plastic shrink tubing.  
Slide a piece of tubing over each LED from the front, so  
only the nipple of the LED protrudes. Shrink the tubing  
around the LED body by holding a lighted match near the  
tubing. This will prevent back light from reflecting on the  
sub-panel.  
56  
57  
58  
With 6 of the sheet metal screws, install the bottom plate.  
The 2 large holes should he near the phono inputs at the  
rear.  
49  
Select the two flat knobs, 2 set screws, and the smal-  
ler L-shaped Allen wrench. Place a screw on the end  
of the wrench and thread it into each knob. Install  
these knobs on the switch shafts above the LEDs.  
The set screw should engage the flat on each shaft.  
Place the 4 rubber feet in the corners of the bottom  
plate. They are self adhesive when you remove the  
paper backing.  
Slide one piece of the U-shaped long plastic grommet  
onto the top flange of the front sub-panel. The other piece  
goes on the top flange of the back panel.  
50  
In like fashion install the remaining set screws in the  
4 round knobs, and fix them to the flatted shafts on  
the other controls.  
59  
Check to make sure that the flat ribbon cable as-  
semblies are up close to the top of the unit, away  
from the circuit board, and slide the cover on from  
the tear. Secure it with the 4 sheet metal screws.  
5 I  
Taking care not to use excessive force, install the 6  
black pushbuttons on the switches.  
60  
Affix the self adhesive serial number label to the  
center rear of the bottom.  
Select a pair of end caps-either the standard ones,  
or those for rack mounting-and the black front  
panel extrusion. Place the front panel in position,  
taking care to insert the LEDs into their holes, and  
check for sufficient clearance around each knob. It  
is possible to shift the phone jack bracket slightly, or  
the mounting of an individual control (by resolder-  
ing) if necessary for correct alignment. Slip each end  
52  
You may wish to secure the smaller Allen wrench for the  
knobs to the bottom of the unit with tape.  
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IF A PROBLEM ARISES  
If neither LED lights when you first turn on the power  
If there is noticeable hum; turn off the unit and reverse  
the line cord. Make sure the preamp is not too close to the  
power amplifier (or that the turntable is not too close,  
either). Check for a defective connecting cable, or turn-  
table ground wire. Inside the preamp, the screws for the  
thumb nut ground connections must be tight, both to the  
PC-12 board, where the lockwasher under the screw head  
contacts the circuit ground, and to the back panel, where  
the lockwasher must break through the paint to the metal.  
Also, the PC-14 rear bracket mounting screw near the  
power transformer must be tight for a good ground con-  
tact.  
switch, turn the unit off immediately. Check the fuse.  
Check the polarity of the LEDs. Check the power  
transformer wiring for proper connections for your line  
voltage. Look for a short caused by a stray strand of wire,  
or for a solder splash on the circuit board. A print of the  
circuit pattern in this manual enables you to check out a  
doubtful connection which might include a solder bridge.  
If there is no audio output, is the monitor switch OFF? Is  
the EPL switch OUT? Is the wiring of the phone jack cor-  
rect? Are the plugs seated properly on the flat ribbon  
cables-not offset by one pin? Is the Phono pushbutton  
switch in the correct position? Check the PC-12 for a solder  
splash between the circuit paths. A sharp knife can correct  
that.  
A spare 1/10ampere slo-blo fuse is supplied with the kit.  
A larger value fuse will not provide protection in the event  
of a fault. If the replacement fuse blows, the unit should be  
returned to the factory for competent service.  
AC LINE CONNECTIONS FOR OVERSEAS USE  
The power transformer supplied with the DH-110 has  
dual tapped primary windings. By arranging these two  
windings in various series-parallel combinations, line vol-  
tages of 100,120,200,220 and 240 volt 50/60 Hz lines can be  
accommodated.  
The diagrams below show the connections for altema-  
tives to the 120 volt connections shown on the pictorial  
diagram. When connected for 200-240 volt lines, the line  
fuse should be changed to l/16 ampere (60 mA) slo-blo.  
240V  
Jo  
B L A C K  
15  
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ADDITIONAL INFORMATION  
RACK MOUNT END CAP INSTALLATION  
If you require new capacitors, we suggest that you  
purchase, if possible, either polypropylene or polystyrene  
types. These premium grades have been selected for all  
critical circuits in the DH-110 because of their superior  
audio performance. Their leads should be formed like  
those presently installed, and they must extend at least ¼",  
but not more than 3/8” beyond the capacitor body to avoid  
a short circuit to the back panel.  
Every DH-110 is supplied with front panel accessory end  
caps which adapt it to a standard 19” rack panel, and with a  
5/32” Allen wrench which fits the mounting screws.  
Remove all power and signal connections from the DH-  
110. On a protected surface such as a towel, remove the  
two cover screws on each side of the bottom, and slide the  
cover back. Remove the screws in each corner of the front  
panel. Exchange the end caps-they slide outward. If you  
are careful, you will not dislodge the LEDs from the panel.  
Replace the cap screws and nuts only finger tight at first.  
Check the alignment of the panel around the knobs before  
tightening fully. Then replace and secure the cover.  
Some fastidious users prefer to solder the compensation  
capacitors in place once a final value has been determined,  
to preclude any less-than-perfect socket contact as time  
passes.  
PHONO CARTRIDGE CAPACITOR LOADING  
PHONO CARTRIDGE RESISTIVE LOADING  
As supplied, the phono load resistance of the DH-110 is  
46.55K ohms, which is accurate loading for most car-  
tridges. This value may be changed if need be, by replacing  
Rl and RlOl on the main circuit board. See the board dia-  
gram in the center of the manual.  
The cartridge manufacturer usually specifies in their  
instructions the optimum ‘load’ or termination for the car-  
tridge. The needed capacitance is expressed in picofarads  
(pF). The DH-110 is supplied with pairs of two values of  
capacitors plugged into the sockets behind the rear circuit  
board at the Phono inputs (one for each channel). One of  
these values is likely to accommodate the majority of  
available cartridges with most high quality connecting ca-  
bles within the accepted tolerance of ±5OpF If no informa-  
tion is available, we suggest first trying the 120pF which is  
installed in the Phono 1 input.  
The input resistance is determined by the parallel com-  
bination of Rl (101) and R2 (201), each of which is 93.1K  
ohms (white, orange, brown, red). A different value of Rl  
(101) will change the desired load to the value RT in accor-  
dance with the formula:  
-93.1  
The total capacitive load is the sum of three numbers:  
Turntable cable capacitance (from its manufacturer)  
+ Preamp input capacitance (DH-110 = 30 pF)  
+ Compensation capacitor (value you desire)  
Rl =  
1
-
93.1/RT  
To simplify, the following standard 1% values of Rl will  
provide desired loads RT as shown (all in Kohms):  
= The specified load (from the cartridge manufacturer)  
Rl Value Kohms  
Desired Load Kohms  
You need to know the cable capacitance, from either the  
turntable maker, or the cable supplier, if they are separate.  
Unfortunately, this is not always readily available, and it  
can vary widely, but lower capacitance cables invariably  
are more expensive. If you must guess, use 60pF per foot.  
If your turntable accepts plug-in cables, you can usually  
overlook its internal wiring capacitance, as it will likely be  
within the 50pF tolerance. Short cables are desirable  
because total cable capacitance can itself be higher than  
the total specified load. The lowest you can go in compen-  
sation is to leave that capacitor out. It is why a good  
preamp design has a low input capacitance.  
11.3  
17.8  
24.9  
34.8  
44.2  
56.2  
10  
15  
20  
25  
30  
35  
Metal film type resistors are recommended for lowest  
noise.  
As an example: Recommended cartridge load= 320 pF  
The turntable has a three foot cable, and  
they say it is 60pF/foot. Subtract 3  
X
60 = -180  
So far we still need  
140 pF  
Subtract the DH-110 input capacitance = - 3 0  
Compensation capacitor required  
=110 pF  
This is close enough to the 120pF supplied that Phono 1 can  
be used without change.  
16  
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Use connecting cables of high quality, and treat them  
with care. Unplug cables by grasping the connector-not  
the cord-to maintain good connections. We have no evi-  
dence that special connector platings are required, but the  
surfaces should be free from grease, fingerprints, or any  
contaminate that may prevent a firm and complete connec-  
tion. Some audiophiles are convinced that a good contact  
cleaner is an important adjunct to a high quality music sys-  
tem.  
MINIMIZING NOISE IN THE SYSTEM  
Your choice of separate components is the right way to  
secure the best performance from a music system, but the  
wide-band characteristics  
and complexity of the best sys-  
tems may also not conceal the introduction of ground  
loops and noise pickup-especially RFI (radio frequency  
interference). With exceedingly high quality equipment we  
may become conscious of distractions that would be ig-  
nored on a lesser level. Careful interwiring practice will  
greatly reduce the likelihood of such problems.  
It does not usually reduce noise to connect each compo-  
nent to an ‘earth’ ground. This may even aggravate a  
ground loop problem, for good ‘earth’ grounds are hard to  
find, and unsatisfactory grounds are likely carriers of RFI.  
The DH-110 is a very quiet preformer. There can be oc-  
casions where even the finest equipment exhibits hum or  
noise due to irregularities in its interconnection. The sim-  
ple expedient of reversing line cord plugs will often reduce  
hum. Listen to the hum level after each change, reversing  
only one cord at a time.  
The previous suggestions may also help reduce RFI. In  
difficult cases, RFI filters can be purchased for insertion  
between the line cord plug and the wall outlet, or a device  
called a ferrite bead may be installed in the phono stage by  
a competent technician. If you use a pre-preamplifier and  
find that it is RF1 sensitive, increasing the cartridge com-  
pensation capacitor may help (moving coil cartridges do  
not require a specific value), or try connecting a 0.01 mfd  
capacitor across the phono input jack that feeds the pre-  
preamplifier. Even for experienced engineers, RFI pre-  
sents problems which often demand that they simply ‘try  
and try again’.  
CAUTION: Do not indiscriminately disconnect and  
reconnect a power amplifier when other components are  
turned ON. Use the DH-110 muting circuit for protection  
against loud noises. With the power amp connected to a  
switched convenience outlet on the DH-110, turn the  
preamp OFF, reverse the amplifier line cord, and then turn  
the preamp ON.  
17  
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Tape 2  
TONE  
l a w  
FILTER  
CD/Video  
Treble Bass  
EPL  
PHONO  
VOL  
Phono  
Phono  
1
2
C
0
0
Tuner  
LINE  
To Right  
Channel  
Record Out  
EPL Send  
EPL  
Switched  
Direct  
FUNCTIONAL BLOCK DIAGRAM  
1
8
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COMPONENT VALUES  
COMPONENT VALUES  
Rii channel corresponding values have designations above 100.  
All resistors are  
1/4  
watt I% Metal Film unless otherwise noted.  
C l  
10 mF, polypropykne, 5Ov  
120 pF, polypropylene, 50v  
220 pF, polypropykne. 50v  
CP111  
CPll2  
CPl16  
CP11  
CNll6  
CNll2  
CN112  
C C 1 2 3  
CC123  
CZ1 I4  
CZll5  
CN111  
CPll4  
93,lOOohms  
93,1OO ohms  
1,100 ohms  
22,100  
22,100 ohms  
147.000 ohms  
147,000 ohms  
22,100 ohms  
22,100 ohms  
47,500 ohms  
47,500 ohms  
100 ohms, 1/2 w, 5% carbon film  
100 ohms, 1/2 w, 5% carbon film  
11,000 ohms  
RM045  
RMO45  
RM025  
RM035  
RM035  
RMO43  
RMO43  
RM035  
RM035  
RMO36  
RM036  
RDl2l  
RDl2l  
RM024  
RM0l4  
R I  
R2  
R3  
R 4  
R.5  
R 6  
R7  
R8  
ohms  
10nF polypropylene, 5Ov  
22 mfd, NP ekctmlytic, 5Ov  
220 mfd, NP ekctmlytic, IOv  
220 mfd, NP ekctrolytic, 10v  
I5 nF, polycarbonate, 5Ov  
I5 nF, polycarbonatc, 5Ov  
25 nF I%, poiypropykne, 50v  
6.8 nF, 1%. polypropylene, 5Ov  
1000 mfd, NP ekctrolytic, 6v  
1.5 nF, polypropykne, 50v  
IO nF, polypropylene, 50v  
R9  
Cl1  
RIO  
RI1  
RI2  
RI3  
RI4  
Rl5  
R16  
RI7  
RI8  
RI9  
R20  
R2l  
R22  
R23  
R 2 4  
R25  
Cl2  
Cl3  
Cl4  
Cl5  
Cl6  
Cl7  
Cl8  
Cl9  
C20  
c21  
c22  
C23  
C24  
C25  
C 2 6  
C 2 7  
C28  
CPII  
I
22 mfd, NP ekctrolytic, 50v  
CNI I6  
CL111  
CL111  
CPl18  
CP144  
CPlll  
301 ohms  
100 ohms  
470 mfd, low ESR electrolytic, 25v  
470 mfd, low ESR electrolytic, 25v  
470 nF, polypropylene, 50v  
68 pF, polypropylene, 50v  
10 nF, polypropylene, 50v  
22 mfd, NP electrolytic, 5Ov  
RM0l2  
147,800  
ohms  
II,000 ohms  
499 ohms  
RMO43  
RM024  
RM018  
RM044  
RM025  
RMO44  
RMO44  
RM025  
RPO2l  
I
megohm  
CN116  
CL111  
CL111  
CP1 14  
CC123  
CC114  
CC115  
CN118  
CNll9  
CC125  
CL124  
CL124  
CL117  
CC125  
CL117  
CC125  
CC114  
CNl18  
CN118  
CL117  
1,100 ohms  
470 mfd, low ESR electrolytic, 25v  
470 mfd, low ESR electrolytic, 25v  
1
megohm  
I
megohm  
I
.5 nF, polypropylene, 50v  
1,100 ohms  
I5 nF, polycarbonate, 50v  
47 nF, polycarbonate, 5Ov  
470 nF, polycarbonate, 5Ov  
4.7 mfd, NP ekctrolytic, 25v  
47 mfd, NP ekctrolytic. l6v  
100 nF, polycarbonate. 50v  
1000 mfd, electrolytic, 50v  
1000 mfd, electrolytic, 50v  
22 mfd, ekctmlytic, 50v  
100,000 ohms linear taper  
potentiometer (Balance)  
50,000 ohms log taper  
potentiometer (Volume)  
147. 000 ohms  
R 2 6  
R 2 7  
RPO29  
C 2 9  
C30  
C3l  
C 3 2  
c33  
C34  
RM043  
RM027  
RM027  
RM046  
RM046  
RM036  
RM036  
RDl2l  
RDl21  
RM015  
RM012  
RM024  
RP022  
17,400 ohms  
17,400 ohms  
82,500 ohms  
82,500 ohms  
47,500 ohms  
47,500 ohms  
100 ohms, 1/2 w, 5 % carbon film  
100 ohms, 1/2 w, 5% carbon film  
316 ohms  
100 ohms  
ll,O00 ohms  
100,000 ohms inverse log taper  
potentiometer (Treble)  
4990hms  
1,100 ohms  
11,000 0hms  
100,000 ohms inverse log taper  
potentiometer (bass)  
316 ohms  
1.100 Ohms  
11,000ohms  
11,000 ohms  
1,lOOohms  
R30  
R3l  
c35  
CM  
c37  
C 3 8  
c39  
C40  
100 nF, polycarbonate,  
5 0 v  
R 3 2  
R 3 3  
R 3 4  
R 3 5  
R36  
R 3 7  
R 3 8  
R 3 9  
22 mfd, ekctrolytic, 50 v  
100 nF. polycarbonate, 50v  
47nF, polycarbonate, 50v  
4.7 mfd, NP ekctmlytic, 25v  
4.7 mfd, NP ekctrolytic. 25v  
22 mfd, electrolytic, 50v  
C4l  
QD115  
QD115  
QD115  
QD1 15  
QD115  
QD115  
QD113  
QD1 I5  
QDll5  
QDll3  
QDII5  
QDlll  
Dl  
IN4003  
IN4003  
lN4003  
IN4003  
IN4003  
IN4003  
IN525lF 22v Zener, 1%  
IN4003  
IN4003  
IN525IF 22v Zener, I%  
IN4003  
IN524OB 10v Zener, 5%  
D 2  
D 3  
D4  
D5  
D6  
D 7  
D8  
D 9  
D10  
Dll  
D12  
D13  
D14  
RM018  
R40  
R41  
R 4 2  
R 4 3  
RP022  
R 4 4  
R 4 5  
R46  
R 4 7  
R 4 8  
R 4 9  
R50  
RM015  
RM025  
RM024  
RM024  
RMO25  
RMO44  
RM035  
RCO29  
RC023  
RC029  
RC023  
R C 0 4 2  
RCO44  
RCO44  
R C 0 3 8  
RC0l6  
RC028  
RC046  
RC029  
R C 0 1 7  
RC043  
RC0l6  
R C 0 2 3  
RC015  
I
megohm  
LED  
LED  
QD119  
22,100  
ohms  
QDI  
19  
R5l  
270 ohms,  
1,800 ohms,  
270 ohms,  
1,800 ohms, w. 5% carbon film  
4,708 ohms, w, 5% carbon film  
w. 5% carbon film  
¼
¼
¼
w, 5% carbon film  
w. 5% carbon film  
w, 5% carbon film  
QBll3  
QBll4  
QBll6  
ICl  
IC2  
IC3  
LM3l7T Positive Regulator  
LM337T Negative Regulator  
LM393 Dual Comparator  
R 5 2  
R 5 3  
R54  
R55  
R56  
QNll7  
QPIl7  
QP117  
QNl18  
QP124  
QNl26  
414C Transistor  
416C Transistor  
w. 5% carbon film  
w, 5% carbon film  
416C Transistor  
55OB Transistor  
556B Transistor  
546B ‘Transistor  
550C Transistor seketed  
560C Transistor seketed  
550C Transistor seketed  
560C Transistor seketed  
560B Transistor  
R59  
R60  
R6l  
R 6 2  
R 6 3  
R64  
R65  
10,000 ohms,  
2.2  
680,000 ohms,  
27Oohms.  
100,000 ohms,  
47,008 ohms,  
10,000 ohms.  
1,800 ohms;  
1,000 Ohms,  
1,000 ohms,  
4,640 ohms,  
Phono Input Selector, DPDT  
Source Selector  
Monitor Sckctor  
EPL switch, 4PDT  
Mono switch, 4PDT (assembly)  
Tone switch, 4PDT  
¼
¼
w, 5% carbon film  
w, 5% carbon film  
w, 5% carbon film  
w, 5% carbon film  
w, 5% carbon film  
w. 5% carbon film  
w. 5% carbon film  
w; 5% carbon film  
w, 5% carbon film  
w, 5% carbon film  
w, 5% metal film  
¼
¼
¼
¼
¼
¼
¼
¼
¼
QPII8  
QNll8  
QPII8  
QNII8  
QNl3l  
55OB Transistor  
56OB Transistor  
550B Transistor  
R68  
R69  
RC0l5  
--  
RM034  
SPI I2  
SRl I2  
SR111  
SPI I3  
SAI I6  
SP111  
SA1 16  
SLll2  
Jll2 FET  
TAII8  
Transformer, Power  
s3  
s4  
S5  
Fl  
Fuse, 1/10A Slo-Blo, AGC  
s6  
Filter switch, 4PDT (assembly)  
Power switch  
19  
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CABLE PIN NUMBERS  
TUNER  
TAPE  
1
R24  
I
I
I
EPL SEND  
‘I  
I
DIRECT  
OUTPUT  
OUTPUT VIA  
PHONE  
JACK  
PHONO 1  
PHONO  
2
GROUND  
Twisted  
L
I
PHONE  
JACK  
black  
b
.
2 3 4  
1 2 3 4  
0 0 0 0 1  
4 0  
3 0  
1 2 3 4 5 6 1 6 2 3 4 5  
POWER SUPPLY  
I
I
2
0
012  
SWITCH PINS SEEN FROM BOTTOM OF CIRCUIT CARD  
NOTE:  
shown  
for  
For other  
at  
ACCESSORY OUTLETS  
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LINE AMPLIFIER  
CABLE PIN  
ASSIGNMENTS  
J22 TO  
PC13  
PIN  
1
2
3
AUX L  
T U N E R  
RECORD  
L
L
4 LINE GND L  
SHIELD GND  
AUX  
7
RECORD  
TUNER  
LINE GND  
R
4
9
10  
11  
GNDR  
12  
13 PHOND 1  
14 GND L  
C29  
T O  
1 GUT LINE L  
2
SHIELD  
3 WT LINE  
L
4
5
SHIELD  
SYMBOLS  
6 EPL RETURN  
7
S H I E L D  
POWER SUPPLY GROUND  
SHIELD GROUND  
L
MUTING  
ID SHIELD  
11 TAPE1 L  
1 2  
13 SHIELD  
1 4  
L E F T  
,
CHANNEL SIGNAL GROUND  
RIGHT  
1
POWER  
SUPPLY  
RAILS  
CIRCUIT CARD LAND  
CHASSIS GROUND  
M A L E C O N N E C T O R P I N  
FEMALE CONNECTOR SLEEVE  
CLOCKWISE, DEPRESSED  
J
J
DH 110 PREAMPLIFIER  
SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM  
LEFT CHANNEL SHOWN TO  
LARGE CIRCUIT CARD IS  
S7,  
AND  
Copyright 1985. All rights reserved.  
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KIT PARTS LIST  
KIT PARTS LIST  
Minor variations may sometimes be encountered in value or appearance. These will  
not affect performance. Some items may have been used to package the kit for  
shipment.  
NON-COMPONENT (BACK) SIDE  
I
Cover, black  
Bottom plate  
Front Panel extrusion, black  
Front subpanel  
Back panel, black  
MS138  
MS137  
ME1 14  
MS132  
MS136  
MS135  
TA118  
KB037  
KF319  
KF346  
WA011  
WA016  
HRl27  
1
I
1
1
2
1
Side piece  
Power transformer  
PC-12A circuit board  
PC-13 circuit board assembly  
PC-14C circuit board assembly  
Cable assembly, interconnect  
AC tine cord  
Grommet, U-shape plastic 12”  
Wire, red, 22 gauge  
Wire, green, 22 gauge  
Wire, black, 22 gauge  
Wire, white, 18 gauge  
Wire yellow, 18 gauge  
Wire blue, 18 guage  
Wire. bare, 18 gauge  
1
1
1
2
1
2
Bag #1  
Capacitor, 10,000 pF (0.01 uf)  
Capacitor, 120 pF  
Capacitor, 220 pF  
Lockwasher, X4, external tooth  
CP111  
CP112  
CPI16  
HW121  
HKI 14  
XM019  
RM025  
Nut, volume control, M8  
Plug, 15 pin, right angle  
Resistor, l.lK ohms  
x
.75  
(brown, brown, black, brown)  
Resistor, 22.IK ohms  
(ted, red, brown, red)  
2
RM035  
4
Resistor,  
1
megohm  
RM044  
(brown, black, black, yellow)  
Set screw, #8  
x
3/16"  
HP122  
XM012  
HWlll  
QD119  
Socket, 4 pin bottom entry  
Washer, volume control, M8 flat  
LED, red  
Shrink tubing, 1”  
HR135  
10  
6
4
Nut, 4-40 KEP  
Nut, 6-32 KEP  
Nut, 10-32 KEP  
HK111  
HKl12  
HK113  
3
Nut, control shaft, M7 x .75  
HK115  
HK1 19  
HW118  
HA113  
HP112  
HA1 14  
HP1 13  
HPI 14  
HP116  
HZ112  
2
Nut,  
3 / 8 "  
2
6
6
2
6
4
12  
8
2
3
Lockwasher, 3/8"  
Screw, 4-40  
Screw, 4-40  
screw, 4-40  
x
x
x
5116”  
5/8", black  
7/8"  
Screw, 6-32 x 1/2", black  
Screw, cap head, 10-32  
x
1”. black  
Screw, sheet metal, #6, black  
Spacer, threaded, 3/8" long  
Thumb nut, 4-40  
HKl22  
HW113  
Washer, control shaft, M7 flat  
Bag #3  
4
AC outlet  
XA015  
MS133  
HR134  
HR128  
HK117  
XZ015  
1
Bracket, phone jack  
Foot, square plastic  
Grommet, rubber  
Nut, phone jack, M12 x I  
Phonejack  
4
I
1
1
6
2 4  
1
Pushbutton, black  
Socket, phono input  
Strain relief, black  
Switch, power  
HD121  
XP0l  
I
HR144  
SL112  
HR138  
H W I 19  
1
3
Ties, wire, nybn  
1
Washer, phone ja c k, M12.2 flat  
End Caps, regular  
Knobs, flat  
Knobs, round  
MCI11  
HDll8  
HDl17  
4
Audio cable pair  
WA017  
MC112  
SF022  
HZ138  
HZ139  
End Caps, rack mount  
Fuse, 1/10 ampere Slo-Blo  
Wrench, Allen, 5/32” cap screw  
Wrench, Allen, +8 set screw  
1
I
1
22  
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SERVICE POLICY AND LIMITED WARRANTY  
Technical assistance to help you locate the source of a  
Your DH-110 Preamplifier has been carefully engineered  
to provide many years of use without maintenance or ser-  
vice. Factory assembled units undergo many physical and  
electrical tests before shipment. The circuit board in kits is  
similarly tested to meet all primary specifications before it  
is packed. Nevertheless, shipping damage can occur, or  
human error may intervene to make service necessary.  
problem may be obtained by calling the Hafler Company  
Technical Service Department at 609-662-6084 between 8  
am and 4:30 pm, eastern time. It will be helpful to know the  
serial number, and the results of any tests you have per-  
formed. However we do not recommend that you attempt  
your own servicing unless you are knowledgeable in this  
regard. If you return a properly functioning Preamplifier  
for service or a checkout, a charge will be made for the  
checkout time required, as well as for packing and ship-  
ping.  
Because many of the components in this refined design  
are not readily available, and because substitution of  
apparently similar parts can easily compromise its perfor-  
mance, we strongly recommend that you make use of our  
complete factory service facilities, or order exact re-  
placement parts from the factory.  
WARRANTY FOR FACTORY ASSEMBLED UNITS  
The assembled DH-110 is warranted for three years from  
the purchase date, including parts, labor and normal return  
shipping costs from the factory to the owner within the  
continental United States. The owner is responsible for  
shipment to the factory and must submit a copy of the  
dated bill of sale.  
It is the owner’s responsibility to return the unit, freight  
prepaid, to the factory service facility. Units shipped  
freight collect will not be accepted. Shipment should be  
made via United Parcel Service whenever possible. We  
will not be responsible for damage caused by parcel post  
shipment; repairs in this case will be made solely at the  
owner’s expense. Be sure you insure for the full value of an  
assembled unit.  
WARRANTY FOR KIT-BUILT UNITS  
Use the original carton and packing materials, and en-  
close all of the following:  
The parts in a DH-110 kit are warranted for a full year  
from the purchase date. If a defective component is found  
on a circuit board or in the kit, simply return the individual  
part to the factory prepaid, together with the serial number  
and the date of purchase. It will be replaced at no charge.  
1. Complete shipping address (Post Office Box numbers  
are not acceptable for UPS return)  
2 . Serial number (if not on the unit).  
If you cannot locate the cause of a problem in your DH-  
110, return it to the factory along with a copy of the dated  
bill of sale, and a check for $30. If the difficulty is solely a  
defective part, the unit will be returned to you prepaid, and  
your $30 less shipping and packing charges will be re-  
turned to you. If the problem is found to be an error in your  
assembly of the kit, the unit will be put in proper working  
order and returned to you prepaid.  
3 . Copy of dated bill of sale (for service under warranty)  
4. Description of malfunction. If it is intermittent, please  
indicate this.  
5 . You may also wish to attach your address directly to the  
unit, or to the line cord.  
All service work is guaranteed for 90 days.  
This warranty is void if the kit has not been completely  
assembled, or if other than rosin core solder has been  
used. Units assembled with acid core or silver solder, or  
paste flux, will be returned unserviced.  
Warranties apply only to the original purchaser, and are  
void if the Preamplifier has been modified without factory  
authorization, or if parts have been substituted which, in  
the factory’s opinion, are not suitable, or if the Pre-  
amplifier has been physically or electrically abused or  
used for some purpose for which it was not designed or in-  
tended.  
This warranty gives you certain rights. You may also  
have other rights which vary from state to state.  
PC13  
F I L  
0
0
a
L
2 3  
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Printed in USA  
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