CANNONDALE
OWNER’S MANUAL
FOR MULTI-SPEED BICYCLES
This manual contains important safety, performance and maintenance
information. Read the manual before taking your first ride on your new
bicycle, and keep the manual handy for future reference.
In order to validate your warranty
and BE ENTERED TO WIN A FREE
SUPER V RAVEN 2000, please fill out
the Registration Card inside or visit
our website at www.cannondale .com.
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Complete your
WARRANTY REGISTRATION CARD
and be
AUTOMATICALLY
ENTERED TO WIN A
CANNONDALE SUPER V RAVEN!
Sure, returning warranty registration
cards is a hassle, but if you need
some extra motivation consider
this: If you send in your card you
just might score a sweet new
Super V Raven full-suspension
bike! If you prefer e-mail to
snail-mail, you can even
register your bike on-line
and automatically be
entered into the same
Super V Raven drawing.
And remember, completing
your warranty registration
card just might help you recover your bike if it's ever stolen.
So grab a pen, or visit us on-line at cannondale.com and get registered!
NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. See Official Rules on attached page in manual.
NOTE: By mailing this card, you’ll help us in working with your local
police department to match bicycle serial numbers with their
owners. Thanks!
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Thank you for buying a Cannondale bicycle. Please complete and mail this card immediately or if you would like to register your bike via the internet you
can do so at www.cannondale.com and join our Cannondale CHAIN Gang for important product information. Prompt registration will insure that your serial
number is recorded in the event of theft and that you will receive safety notifications.
CANNONDALE WARRANTY REGISTRATION CARD
1. Mr. ❏
2. Mrs. ❏
3. Ms. ❏
4. Miss ❏
1
What type of cycling do you do most often? (check one)
14
1.
2.
❏
❏
Mtn. Biking
Road Riding
3.
4.
❏
❏
Touring
Racing
5.
6.
❏
❏
Commuting
Recreational
7.
8.
❏
❏
Triathlons
Other
First Name
Initial
Last Name
What other types of bikes do you currently own?
15
Address: (Number and Street)
Apt. #
Zip
1. ❏ Full-suspension mountain
4. ❏ Hybrid/City bike 7. ❏ Tandem
2. ❏ Front suspension mountain 5. ❏ Road racing
8. ❏ I do not own any other bikes.
3. ❏ Rigid mountain
6. ❏ Touring
City
State
Date of Your birth:
17
2
3
Do you plan to race your new bicycle? ❏ Yes ❏ No
Marital Status:
1. ❏ Married
2. ❏ Single
16
18
E-mail:
Education (Please check which category applies):
Month
Day
Year
1.
❏
High School
3. ❏ Completed College
Phone Number:
4
5
2.
❏
Some College
4. ❏ Graduate School
Purchase Price:
6
Date of Purchase:
What protective gear did you purchase with your bike, or already own and use?
(See owners manual and consult your retailer)
19
20
.00
$
Month
Day
Year
1. ❑ Helmet
2. ❑ Gloves
3. ❑ Protective glasses
❑ Already own
❑ Already own
❑ Already own
❑ Bought with bicycle
❑ Bought with bicycle
❑ Bought with bicycle
Bicycle Model:
7
example: Super V 1000
Model Color:
Store Name:
Frame Size:
in. or cm.
8
9
Do you plan to ride at dusk, dawn, or at night? If so, have you purchased or do
you already own and plan to use a lighting system as is required for night riding
in all 50 states? (See owners manual and consult your retailer)
10
1. ❑ Yes
2. ❑ No
❑ Already own
❑ Do not plan to ride at dusk, dawn, or night
❑ Bought with bicycle
Serial Number:
Located on underside of bottom bracket (Please see Page 97.)
BI0302
11
GJ
B1-030
180
Which best describes your family income?
21
22
23
149158
6FL5WM
1. ❏ Under $15,000
2. ❏ $15,000-$24,999
3. ❏ $25,000-$34,999
4. ❏ $35,000-$49,999
5. ❏ $50,000-$74,999
6. ❏ $75,000-$99,999
7. ❏ $100,000-$149,999
8. ❏ Over $150,000
➚
bottom bracket
NOTE: Late model bikes will have the serial number printed adjacent to
a bar code label on the bottom bracket shell. Please write the eight-digit
Including children, what are the ages of the other people that live in your house?
number below left:
SER #
Females (in years)
Males (in years)
What are the top three (3) features influencing your purchase?
12
13
In the last six (6) months have you or others in your household:
1. ❏ Received as a Gift
2. ❏ Value for Price
3. ❏ Color/Appearance
4. ❏ Prior Experience
5. ❏ Quality/Durability
6. ❏ Component Selection 11. ❏ Frame Design/Materials
7. ❏ Comfort/Fit
8. ❏ Weight of Bicycle
9. ❏ Cannondale Reputation 14. ❏ Other
10. ❏ Advertisement
1. ❏ Purchased clothes through the mail?
2. ❏ Purchased gifts through the mail?
3. ❏ Worked in your garden?
5. ❏ Purchased a PC or PC software?
12. ❏ Recommendation of Friend/Family
13. ❏ Recommendation of Salesperson
6. ❏ Purchased two or more books?
7. ❏ Purchased cassettes/CDs?
8. ❏ Donated to charities?
4. ❏ Traveled on vacation?
Thank you for filling out this questionnaire. We value your answers and input. Please check here ❏ if you would
prefer not to participate in further market research for Cannondale or obtain information on new and interesting
opportunities from other exciting companies.
How many times do you ride per month?
1.
❏
1-5
2.
❏
6-10
3. ❏ 11-15
4. ❏ 15+
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94D
CANNONDALE
Super V Raven Sweepstakes
Official Rules
NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. To enter, complete and mail in the attached warranty registration card, or register your new Cannondale
bike on-line at cannondale.com. You’ll be automatically entered when we receive your registration. You may also enter by hand-printing your name,
address, phone number, and the words “Cannondale Super V Raven Sweepstakes” on a 3” x 5” card and mailing it to: Cannondale Corporation,
16 Trowbridge Drive, Bethel, CT 06801, Attn: Raven Sweepstakes. Limit one entry per person. No mechanically reproduced entries will be accepted.
All entries must be received by July 1, 2000 when the Sweepstakes ends.
PRIZE AND ODDS. One (1) prize will be awarded: a 2000 Cannondale Super V Raven bicycle (approx. retail value $3,000.00). Odds of
winning depend on number of entries. No substitution of prize. All taxes on prize are responsibility of winner. If winner is a minor, prize will be
awarded to parent or legal guardian.
ELIGIBILITY. Sweepstakes begins May 1, 1999 and is open to legal residents of the fifty United States and D.C., 18 years of age or older,
except employees of Cannondale Corporation, Cannondale Corporation Bethel, Connecticut, its agents, advertising agencies, promotional suppliers
and members of the households or immediate families of any of the foregoing. This Sweepstakes is void everywhere outside the United States and
wherever prohibited by law. All applicable federal, state and local laws and regulations apply.
SELECTION OF WINNER. Winner will be selected at random on or about July 31, 2000 from among all eligible entries received. Winner will
be notified by mail.
GENERAL. All Sweepstakes materials are subject to validation. Judges decisions are final. By entering, you agree to be bound by these Official
Rules and all decisions of the judges. The potential winner may be required to sign and return an affidavit of eligibility, a prize release and a
publicity release. Failure to do so when requested may result in disqualification and selection of an alternate winner. Sweepstakes materials are
not valid if illegible, incomplete, forged, duplicated, mutilated or otherwise reproduced or tampered with in any way. All entries become property of
sponsor, and none will be returned. No responsibility is assumed for lost, late, stolen, misdirected or postage due mail or unavailability or
malfunctioning of on-line connections or communications.
WINNER’S LIST. For name of winner, send a self-addressed, stamped envelope by August 31, 2000 to Cannondale Corporation,
16 Trowbridge Drive, Bethel, CT 06801, Attn: Raven Sweepstakes.
1
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THANK YOU FOR PURCHASING A CANNONDALE.
No assembly instructions are in this manual. Your new bicycle should be delivered to you only
in a completely assembled and properly adjusted condition, complete with all CPSC required
safety equipment.
YOUR OWNER’S MANUAL
To help you get the most out of your Cannondale, we’ve included this owner’s manual with your
purchase. The manual is organized into two sections. The first section is a generic guide to the proper
function and use of bicycles. The second section covers information specific to Cannondale bicycles.
Both are important.
OWNER’S MANUAL SUPPLEMENTS
Many Cannondale bicycles (especially models equipped with front and/or rear suspension) require
specific instructions in addition to this Owner’s Manual. If your new bicycle is equipped with suspen-
sion, your dealer must supply you with an Owner’s Manual supplement in addition to this Owner’s
Manual. This supplement has instructions covering proper use, maintenance, and adjustment of your
bike’s suspension components, and may include important warnings and warranty information.
If your new Cannondale bicycle is equipped with front and/or rear suspension, and you did not receive
an Owner’s Manual supplement or additional instructions with the Owner’s Manual, please call your
Cannondale dealer immediately, or call us at one of the numbers listed on the back cover of this
manual. Do not ride your new bicycle until you receive and read these additional instructions.
2
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YOUR LOCAL AUTHORIZED CANNONDALE RETAILER
Along with this manual, your key source of information and assistance is the shop where you
purchased your bicycle. Your local Authorized Cannondale Retailer is your primary contact for
service and adjustment of your bicycle, instruction in its use, and any warranty questions. To find
the Cannondale retailer closest to you, call 1-800-BIKE-USA.
REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE
Technological breakthroughs have made bicycles and bicycle components more complex than ever
before, and the pace of innovation is increasing. This on-going revolution makes it impossible for
this manual to provide all the information required to properly repair and/or maintain your bicycle.
In order to help minimize the chances of an accident and possible injury, it is critical that you have
all repair and maintenance work performed by an Authorized Cannondale Retailer.
Equally important, establish and adhere to a periodic maintenance schedule. Your individual
maintenance requirements will be determined by everything from how often and how far you ride
to your riding style to geographic location. Consult your Authorized Cannondale Retailer for help in
determining your maintenance requirements.
3
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WHY YOU SHOULD READ THIS MANUAL
This manual was written to help you get the most performance, comfort,
enjoyment and safety when riding your new bike.
A
BOUT THIS
1
It’s important for you to understand your new bike, its features and its
operation, so that, from your first ride, you get maximum enjoyment with
maximum safety. By reading this manual before you go out on your first
ride, you’ll know how to get the most from your new bicycle.
MANUAL
It is also important that your first ride on a new bicycle is taken in a
controlled environment, away from cars, obstacles and other cyclists.
GENERAL WARNING:
Bicycling can be a hazardous activity e ve n unde r the be s t of
circums tance s . Prope r mainte nance of your bicycle is your
re s pons ibility as it he lps re duce the ris k of injury. This Manual
contains many "Warnings " and "Cautions " conce rning the cons e -
que nce s of failure to maintain or ins pe ct your bicycle . Many of the
Warnings and Cautions s ay "you may los e control and fall". Be caus e
any fall can re s ult in s e rious injury or e ve n de ath, we do not re pe at
the warning of pos s ible injury or de ath whe ne ve r the ris k of falling
is me ntione d.
!
4
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Whe n all e ls e fails . . . it’s too late to re ad the manual
Even if you’ve been riding a bike all your life, you probably need an updating
of your bicycling habits, knowledge and assumptions. Why? Because bicycles
are going through some pretty dramatic changes in the technology which
affects function, handling, comfort, performance and safety.
A SPECIAL NOTE FOR PARENTS:
It is a tragic fact that most bicycle accidents involve children. As a parent or
guardian, you bear the responsibility for the activities and safety of your
minor child. Among these responsibilities are to make sure that the bicycle
which your child is riding is properly fitted to the child; that it is in good
repair and safe operating condition; that you and your child have learned
and understand the safe operation of the bicycle; and that you and your
child have learned, understand and obey not only the applicable local motor
vehicle, bicycle and traffic laws, but also the common sense rules of safe
and responsible bicycling. As a parent, you should read this manual before
letting your child ride the bicycle. We have tried to make this manual
interesting and instructive for both you and your child.
Make sure that your child always wears an approved bicycle helmet when
riding (see Section 4 B).
5
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1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
frame
top tube
down tube
seat tube
chain stay
seat stay
head tube
fork
W
HAT IT S
’
2
CALLED
32
36
33
38
9
31
1
35
37
41
41
42
43
39
43
39
wheel
7
2
10 tire
10
27
11
11 tread
12
40
40
12 sidewall
13 valve stem
14 tube
4
3
15
8
6
43
30
26
5
15 rim
24
18
43
16 spokes
17 hub
28
16
13
17
29
25
23
18 quick release
19 bottom bracket
20 crank
20
21
19
22
14
21 chainrings
6
fig. 1a Dropped Bar Bike
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22 chain
23 pedal
24 toeclip/strap
25 rear derailleur
26 front derailleur
27 shifter
34
36
32
33
42
28 shifter cable
29 adjusting barrel
30 freewheel/rear
cluster/cassette
31 headset
31
35
27
41
1
38
43
37
41
43
40
7
2
9
10
11
12
32 stem
3
39
6
40
39
4
33 handlebar
34 bar end extension
35 seatpost
8
43
26
30
21
18
16
36 saddle
43
13
28
29
37 seat binder
38 brake lever
39 brake
5
17
23
25
20
14
19
22
15
40 brake shoe
41 brake cable
42 adjusting barrel
43 reflectors
fig. 1b Flat Bar Bike
7
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Adult bicycles can be broadly categorized into four types, according to
the intended use for which the bike was designed: Road Bikes, Mountain
Bikes, Cross Bikes and City or Cruiser Bikes. While there is a lot of use
overlap in bike design, each type of bike is designed to provide optimum
performance, comfort and safety under specific use conditions. Which
type is your new bike?
W
HAT KIND
OF A BIKE
IS IT
3
?
The Road Bike, sometimes called a racing bike because it is derived
from the bikes used by bicycle road racers and triathletes, is for fast
travel, hard training and competition on paved surfaces. It is the lightest,
most aerodynamic and “fastest” type of bike. Because it is generally
ridden on relatively smooth paved roads, its frame is made as stiff and
light as possible, and its frame geometry is designed to give it quick,
very precise response to rider input. Its components, especially wheels,
tend to be lighter than those for other categories, again because they are
not designed to get banged around as much. Its dropped handlebars,
sometimes equipped with aero bar extensions, are designed to give the
rider good leverage for climbing and sprinting, and to position the rider
in an aerodynamic "tuck" for speed. Its high-pressure, narrow tires
reduce rolling resistance to a minimum.
fig. 2 Road Bike
But: The ride tends to be too stiff for comfort on rougher surfaces. The
frame and components are too light to take the pounding of off-road
excursions. The handlebars position the rider in a way that many find
8
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uncomfortable for more casual riding. The narrow tires are not recommended
for use on loose surfaces.
The Mountain Bike is designed to give the rider maximum control and
durability on a wide variety of harsh terrain. Everything about the Mountain
Bike is more rugged. Its frame geometry provides maximum ground
clearance and allows you to quickly and easily shift your weight to change
the balance of the bike as terrain conditions demand. Its wide, high-volume
tires absorb shock and provide a bigger, more stable footprint on loose or
slippery surfaces. Its wide-range gearing, usually with 18 or more speeds,
provides the right choice for almost any condition. Many Mountain Bikes
come equipped with suspension systems which help absorb the shocks and
vibrations of rough trails.
fig. 3 Mountain Bike
But: A Mountain Bike is heavier than a road bike. Its wide tires have
greater rolling resistance than road bike tires. While more comfortable for
many people, the rider's more upright riding position is aerodynamically
inefficient. A Mountain Bike is not the best choice for long, fast rides on
paved surfaces.
NOTE: While the rugged appearance of Mountain bikes might suggest that
they're indestructible, they are not. They are tough and sturdy; but as with
any machine, abuse will soon take a toll on their ability to perform.
9
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The Cross Bike, also often called a Hybrid, Cross Terrain Bike or Fitness
Bike, is like a Swiss Army Knife: it's a versatile tool that does many
things well. The Cross Bike is a good choice for the rider who isn't look-
ing for the ultimate in performance either on or off the road, but who
wants a bike that will handle paved roads, bike paths, graded fire trails
and dirt roads. It's not as fast on pavement as a Road Bike; nor is it
designed for hard off-road use on “single track” or rocky, rutted, rugged
terrain like a Mountain Bike.
fig. 4 Cross Bike
By changing tires, handlebars and shifting and braking controls, your
dealer can alter a Cross Bike's performance range to favor either paved
road performance or dirt road performance, to suit your intended use.
The City Bike, also called a Cruiser, is designed for comfortable, low-
maintenance, casual riding. It is often equipped with three, five, seven
or more gears which are housed in the rear wheel hub. Its frame is
designed for comfort rather than for high performance, and its fat tires
are designed for solid, rather than loose, surfaces. The Cruiser is ideal
for around town, for gently rolling or flat rural roads, for a ride around
the park, or for a quick trip to the store.
fig. 4A City Bike
10
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A. FIT
Make sure the bike fits. A bike that’s too big or too small for the rider is
harder to control and can be uncomfortable.
F
IT AND
4
S
AFETY
WARNING: If your bicycle doe s not fit prope rly, you may los e control
and fall. If your ne w bike doe s n’t fit, as k your de ale r to e xchange it
be fore your ride it.
Frame size: Your dealer will have recommended the best frame size for
you, based on the information provided. If you picked your own bike at
the dealership, your dealer took the time to fit you to the correct frame
size at the time. If someone else selected the bike for you, as a gift, for
example, it’s important for you to make sure that it fits before you ride it.
!
The first check for correct size is standover height. Standover height is
the basic element of bike fit. It is the distance from the ground to the
top of the top tube at that point where your crotch would be if you were
straddling the bike by standing half way between the saddle and the
handlebar stem. To check for safe standover height, straddle the bike
while wearing the kind of shoes in which you'll be riding, and bounce
vigorously on your heels. If your crotch touches the frame, the bike is
too big for you. Don't even ride the bike around the block. A bike which
fig. 5 Standover Height
11
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you ride only on paved surfaces and never, ever take off-road should
give you a minimum standover height clearance of one to two inches. A
bike that you'll ride on unpaved surfaces should give you a minimum of
three inches of standover height clearance. And a bike that you'll use for
real mountain biking on difficult, rough terrain should give you four or
more inches of clearance.
Saddle position: Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in get-
ting the most performance and comfort from your bicycle. Your dealer
will have positioned the saddle where experience tells him most people
find it comfortable. If you find the saddle position is not comfortable,
there are adjustments you can make.
fig. 6A
fig. 6B
fig. 6C
Look at Figures 6A, B and C, and determine which one illustrates the
type of saddle attachment on your bicycle.
A saddle can be adjusted in three directions:
1. Up and down adjustment. Your leg length determines the correct sad-
dle height. The saddle is at the correct height for you when, while seated
on the saddle and with the crank arms parallel to the seat tube, you can
just reach the “down” pedal with one heel. To check for correct saddle
height:
12
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◆
◆
◆
sit on the saddle;
place one heel on a pedal;
rotate the crank until the pedal with your heel on it is in the
down position and the crank arm is parallel to the seat tube.
close
close
open
open
If your leg is not completely straight and just touching the center of the
pedal, your saddle height needs to be adjusted. If your hips must rock
for the heel to reach the pedal, the saddle is too high. If your leg is bent
at the knee with your heel on the pedal, the saddle is too low.
fig. 7A
Standard Binder
fig. 7B
QR Binder
min insert
mark
To adjust the saddle height, loosen the seat binder bolt (fig. 7A &B; see
also Section 6. B on Seat Post Quick Releases) and move the seat post
up or down as required. Then, make sure that the saddle is parallel to
the top tube of the bike, and retighten the seat binder bolt tight enough
so that you cannot twist the saddle out of alignment. Check the adjust-
ment as described above. Under no circumstances should the seat post
project from the frame beyond its "Minimum Insertion" or "Maximum
Extension" mark (fig. 8).
t
n
i
m
n
i
fig. 8
WARNING:
If your s e at pos t proje cts from the frame be yond the Minimum
Ins e rtion or Maximum Exte ns ion mark (s e e fig. 8) the s e at pos t
may bre ak, which could caus e you to los e control and fall.
!
13
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2. Front and back adjustment. Loosen the saddle clamping mechanism
(see fig. 6A, B or C) and slide the saddle back or forward on its rails.
Start with the saddle clamped in about the middle, then adjust forward
or back until you find the position which is most comfortable for you.
Then, retighten the saddle clamping mechanism as tight as you can.
3. Saddle tilt adjustment. Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but
some riders prefer to have the saddle nose tilted up just a little, and
others prefer it to be tilted down just a little. You can adjust saddle tilt
by loosening the saddle clamping mechanism, tilting the saddle to the
desired position, and retightening the saddle clamping mechanism tight
enough so that you cannot move or jiggle the saddle.
Very small changes in saddle position can have a substantial effect on
performance and comfort. Consequently, whenever you make a change
to your saddle position, make only one directional change at a time, and
make the changes in small increments until you have found the position
at which you are most comfortable.
WARNING: Afte r any s addle adjus tme nt, be s ure to tighte n the
s addle adjus ting me chanis m prope rly be fore riding. A loos e
s addle clamp or s e at pos t binde r can caus e damage to the s e at
pos t, or can caus e you to los e control and fall. A corre ctly tight-
e ne d s addle adjus ting me chanis m will allow no s addle move me nt
in any dire ction. Pe riodically che ck to make s ure that the s addle
adjus ting me chanis m is prope rly tighte ne d.
!
14
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If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height, tilt and fore-and-aft
position, your saddle is still uncomfortable, you may need a different
saddle design. Saddles, like people, come in many different shapes, sizes
and resilience. Your dealer can help you select a saddle which, when
correctly adjusted for your body and riding style, will be comfortable.
CAUTION: It has be e n alle ge d that e xte nde d riding with a s addle
which is incorre ctly adjus te d or which doe s not s upport your
pe lvic are a corre ctly can caus e s hort-te rm or long-te rm injury to
ne rve s and blood ve s s e ls . If your s addle caus e s you pain or numb-
ne s s , adjus t the s addle pos ition and your riding pos ition. If pain or
numbne s s pe rs is t, talk to your de ale r about fitting a diffe re nt
s addle to your bicycle .
!
Handlebar height and angle: If your bike is equipped with a stem which
clamps directly on to the outside of the steerer tube, your dealer may be
able to change bar height by moving height adjustment spacers from
below the stem to above the stem, or vice versa. Otherwise, you'll have to
get a stem of different length or rise. Consult your dealer. Do not attempt
to do this yourself, as it requires special knowledge.
But on many bikes, you can raise or lower your handlebars a bit by
adjusting stem height yourself. Loosen the stem binder bolt by turning
it counterclockwise three or four full turns. If the bolt rises but the stem
15
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doesn't, get a piece of wood or a soft mallet and give the bolt a good whack to
release the wedge. Adjust the stem position as desired, align stem with tire,
and retighten the binder bolt tight enough so that you cannot twist the stem
and handlebars out of alignment. Under no circumstances should the stem be
retightened with its "Minimum Insertion" or "Maximum extension" mark visible.
stem
binder
handlebar
binder
min
insert
mark
Now check to make sure that the handlebars rotate freely in both directions
without the brake cables catching or binding on anything.
fig. 9
CAUTION: On s ome bicycle s , changing the s te m or s te m he ight can
affe ct the te ns ion of the front brake cable , locking the front brake or
cre ating s ufficie nt cable s lack to make the front brake inope rable . If
the front brake s hoe s move in towards the whe e l rim or out away from
the whe e l rim whe n you change the s te m or s te m he ight, take your
bicycle to your de ale r for corre ct brake adjus tme nt be fore riding it.
!
WARNING: The s te m's Minimum Ins e rtion Mark mus t not be vis ible
above the top of the he ads e t (s e e fig. 9). If the s te m is e xte nde d
be yond the Minimum Ins e rtion Mark the s te m may bre ak or damage
the fork's s te e re r tube , which could caus e you to los e control and fall.
!
You can change the angle of the handlebar or bar end extensions by loosening
their binder bolt, rotating the bar or extension to the desired angle, recenter-
ing it and retightening the binder bolt tight enough so that the bars or exten-
sions can't move in relation to each other and the stem.
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WARNING: Failure to prope rly tighte n the s te m binde r bolt, the han-
dle bar binde r bolt or the bar e nd e xte ns ion clamping bolts may com-
promis e s te e ring action, which could caus e you to los e control and
fall. Place the front whe e l of the bicycle be twe e n your le gs and
atte mpt to twis t the handle bar/ s te m as s e mbly. If you can twis t the
s te m in re lation to the front whe e l, turn the handle bars in re lation
to the s te m, or turn the bar e nd e xte ns ions in re lation to the handle -
bar, tighte n the bolts .
!
!
Control position adjustments: The brake and shifting controls on your bike
are positioned where they work best for most people. The angle of the con-
trols and their position on the handlebars can be changed. Ask your dealer
to show you how, or to make the adjustments for you.
Brake reach: Many bikes have brake levers which can be adjusted for reach.
If you have small hands and find it difficult to squeeze the brake levers,
your dealer can either adjust the reach or fit shorter reach brake levers.
WARNING: The s horte r the brake le ve r re ach, the more critical it is
to have corre ctly adjus te d brake s , s o that full braking powe r can be
applie d within available brake le ve r trave l. Brake le ve r trave l ins uffi-
cie nt to apply full braking powe r can re s ult in los s of control, which
may re s ult in s e rious injury or de ath.
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B. SAFETY EQUIPMENT
WARNING: Many s tate s re quire s pe cific s afe ty de vice s . It is your
re s pons ibility to familiarize yours e lf with the laws of the s tate
whe re you ride and to comply with all applicable laws , including
prope rly e quipping yours e lf and your bike as the law re quire s .
!
Helmet: While not all States require bicyclists to wear approved
protective headgear, common sense dictates that you should wear an
ANSI, Snell or other approved helmet whether the law requires it or not.
Most serious bicycle injuries involve head injuries which might have
been avoided if the rider had worn a helmet. Your dealer has a variety of
attractive helmets, and can recommend one to suit your needs. But the
"right" helmet is not just a fashion statement. It must fit correctly, be
worn correctly and be properly secured to do its real job. Ask your dealer
to help you with the fit and adjustment of your helmet, and refer to the
owner’s manual provided with the helmet. (fig. 10)
fig. 10 Wearing a Helmet
WARNING: Always we ar an approve d he lme t whe n riding your bike .
Always ke e p the chin s trap s e cure ly buckle d. Failure to we ar a
bicycle he lme t may re s ult in s e rious injury or de ath.
!
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Reflectors: Reflectors are important safety devices which are designed as an
integral part of your bicycle.
Federal regulations require every bicycle to be equipped with front, rear,
wheel and pedal reflectors. The size, performance and location of each
reflector is specified by the U.S. Consumer Products Safety Commission.
The reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect street lights and car lights
in a way that helps you to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist.
CAUTION: Che ck re fle ctors and the ir mounting bracke ts re gularly to make
s ure that the y are cle an, s traight, unbroke n and s e cure ly mounte d. Have
your de ale r re place damage d re fle ctors and s traighte n or tighte n any that
are be nt or loos e .
!
!
The mounting brackets of front and rear reflectors are often designed as
brake straddle cable safety catches which prevent the straddle cable from
catching on the tire tread if the cable jumps out of its yoke or breaks.
WARNING: Do not re move the front or re ar re fle ctor bracke ts from your
bicycle . The y are an inte gral s afe ty de vice which prote cts you from the
brake s traddle cable catching on the tire in the e ve nt of brake cable fail-
ure . If a brake s traddle cable catche s on the tire , it can caus e the whe e l
to s top s udde nly, caus ing you to loos e control and fall.
19
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WARNING: Do not re move the re fle ctors from your bicycle . The y are
an inte gral part of the bicycle 's s afe ty s ys te m. Re moving the
re fle ctors may re duce your vis ibility to othe rs us ing the roadway.
Be ing s truck by othe r ve hicle s may re s ult in s e rious injury or de ath.
Re me mbe r: re fle ctors are not a s ubs titute for lights . Always e quip
your bicycle with all s tate and locally mandate d lights .
!
!
Lights: If you ride your bike before dawn or after dusk, your bicycle
must be equipped with lights so that you can see the road and avoid
road hazards; and so that others can see you. Vehicle laws treat bicycles
like any other vehicle. That means you must have a white front and a
red rear light operating if you are riding after dusk. Your bike dealer can
recommend a battery or generator powered lighting system appropriate
to your needs.
WARNING: Re fle ctors are not a s ubs titute for prope r lights . It is
your re s pons ibility to e quip your bicycle with all s tate and locally
mandate d lights . Riding at dawn, at dus k, at night or at othe r time s
of poor vis ibility without a bicycle lighting s ys te m which me e ts local
and s tate laws and without re fle ctors is dange rous and may re s ult
in s e rious injury or de ath.
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Pedals: (See also Section 6.E and 6.F.) Some higher performance model bicycles
come equipped with pedals that have sharp and potentially dangerous surfaces.
These surfaces are designed to add safety by increasing adhesion between the
rider's shoe and the bicycle pedal. If your bicycle has this type of high-perfor-
mance pedal you must take extra care to avoid serious injury from the pedals’
sharp surfaces. Based on your riding style or skill level, you may prefer a less
aggressive pedal design. Your dealer can show you a number of options and
make suitable recommendations.
Eye protection: Any kind of riding, but particularly off-road riding, involves air-
borne dirt, dust and bugs, so it's a good idea always to ride with protective eye-
wear -- tinted when the sun is bright, clear when it's not. Most bike shops carry
protective fashion eyewear, some with interchangeable lens systems.
C. MECHANICAL SAFETY CHECK
Here is a simple, sixty-second mechanical safety check which you should get in
the habit of making every time you're about to get on a bike.
Nuts, bolts & straps: Lift the front wheel off the ground by two or three inches,
then let it bounce on the ground. Anything sound, feel or look loose? Do a quick
visual and tactile inspection of the whole bike. Any loose parts or accessories? If
so, secure them. If you're not sure, ask someone with experience to check.
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Tires & Wheels: Tires correctly inflated? Check by putting one hand on
the saddle, one on the intersection of the handlebars and stem, then
bouncing your weight on the bike while looking at tire deflection.
Compare what you see with how it looks when you know the tires are
correctly inflated; and adjust if necessary. See Section 6.G.1 for details
and recommended tire pressures.
Tires in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look for cuts in the
tread and sidewall. Replace damaged tires before riding the bike.
Wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake clearance and side-
to-side wobble. If a wheel wobbles side to side or hits the brake pads,
take the bike to a qualified bike shop to have the wheel trued.
CAUTION: Whe e ls mus t be true for the brake s to work e ffe ctive ly.
Whe e l truing is a s kill which re quire s s pe cial tools and e xpe rie nce .
Do not atte mpt to true a whe e l unle s s you have the knowle dge ,
e xpe rie nce and tools ne e de d to do the job corre ctly.
!
Brakes: Squeeze the brake levers. Are the brake quick releases closed?
The straddle cable securely engaged? Are the brake shoes contacting
the wheel rim within an inch of brake lever movement? Can you apply
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full braking force at the levers without having them touch the handlebar? If
not, your brakes need adjustment. Do not ride the bike until the brakes are
properly adjusted. See Sections 6.C.1 and 6.C.2 for details.
WARNING: Riding with imprope rly adjus te d brake s or worn brake s hoe s is
dange rous and can re s ult in s e rious injury or de ath.
!
!
Quick Releases: Are the front wheel, rear wheel and seat post quick releases
properly adjusted and in the locked position? See Section 6.A and 6.B for
details.
WARNING: Riding with an imprope rly adjus te d whe e l quick re le as e can
caus e the whe e l to wobble or dis e ngage from the bicycle , which can
caus e damage to the bicycle and s e rious injury or de ath.
Handlebar and saddle alignment: Are the saddle and handlebar stem correct-
ly parallel to the bike's top tube and tight enough so that you can't twist
them out of alignment?
Handlebar ends: Are the handlebar grips secure and in good condition? If not,
replace them. Are the handlebar ends and extensions plugged? If not, plug
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them before you ride. On a Mountain bike or Cross bike, are the bar end
extensions tight enough so you can’t twist them? If not, tighten them.
WARNING: Loos e or damage d handle bar grips or e xte ns ions can
caus e you to los e control and fall. Unplugge d handle bars or e xte n-
s ions can cut your body, and can caus e s e rious injury in an othe r-
wis e minor accide nt.
!
OK: now buckle on your helmet and enjoy your ride.
fig. 10 Wearing a Helmet
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NOTE: Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and damage. By choosing
to ride a bicycle, you assume the responsibility for that risk. Not the people who
sold you the bike. Not the people who made it. Not the people who distribute it.
Not the people who manage or maintain the roads or trails you ride on. You. So
you need to know -- and to practice -- the rules of safe and responsible riding.
R
IDING
AFELY AND
ESPONSIBLY
5
S
R
A. THE BASICS
1. Always do the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 4.C) before you get on a bike.
2. Always wear a cycling helmet which meets the latest Snell or ANSI
standard. (see fig. 10)
3. Be careful to keep body parts and other objects away from the sharp teeth
of chainrings; the moving chain; the turning pedals and cranks; and the spin-
ning wheels of your bicycle.
4. Always wear shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the pedals.
Ne ve r ride barefoot or wearing sandals.
5. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your bicycle.
6. Wear bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that it can catch on moving
parts of the bicycle or be snagged by objects at the side of the road or trail.
fig. 10 Wearing a Helmet
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7. Don't jump with your bike. Jumping a bike, particularly a BMX or
mountain bike, can be fun; but it puts incredible stress on everything
from your spokes to your pedals. Perhaps most vulnerable to jumping-
related damage is your front fork. Riders who insist on jumping their
bikes risk serious damage, to their bicycles as well as to themselves.
8. Think about your speed, and keep your speed at a level which is
consistent with conditions. Always keep in mind that there is a direct
relationship between speed and control, and between speed and
component stress.
B. RULES OF THE ROAD
1. Learn the local bicycle laws and regulations. Many communities
have special regulations about licensing of bicycles, riding on side-
walks, laws regulating bike path and trail use, and so on. Many states
have helmet laws, child carrier laws and special bicycle traffic laws. In
the U.S. and in most foreign countries, a bicyclist is required to obey
the same traffic laws as the driver of a car or motorcycle. It's your
responsibility to know and obey the laws.
2. You are sharing the road or the path with others -- motorists,
pedestrians and other cyclists. Respect their rights, and be tolerant if
they infringe on yours.
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3. Ride defensively. Assume that the people with whom you are shar-
ing the road are so absorbed with what they are doing and where they
are going that they are oblivious to you.
4. Look ahead of where you're going, and be ready to avoid:
◆
Vehicles slowing or turning in front of you, entering the
road or your lane ahead of you, or coming up behind you.
◆
◆
◆
◆
Parked car doors opening in front of you.
Pedestrians stepping out in front of you.
Children playing near the road.
Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks, expansion joints, road or
sidewalk construction, debris and other obstructions that could
cause you to swerve into traffic, catch your wheel or otherwise
cause you to lose control and have an accident.
◆
The many other hazards and distractions which can occur on a
bicycle ride.
5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bike paths or on the
right side of the road, in the same direction as car traffic and as close
to the edge of the road as possible.
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6. Stop at stop signs and traffic lights; slow down and look both ways at
street intersections. Remember that a bicycle always looses in a
collision with a motor vehicle, so be prepared to yield even if you have
the right of way.
7. Use hand signals for turning and stopping. Learn the local vehicle
code for the correct signals.
8. Never ride with headphones. They mask traffic sounds and emergency
vehicle sirens, distract you from concentrating on what's going
on around you, and their wires can tangle in the moving parts of the
bicycle, causing you to lose control.
9. Never carry a passenger, unless it is a small child wearing an
approved helmet and secured in a correctly mounted child carrier
or a child-carrying trailer.
10. Never carry anything which obstructs your vision or your complete
control of the bicycle, or which could become entangled in the moving
parts of the bicycle.
11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle.
12. Don't do stunts, wheelies or jumps. They can cause you injury and
damage your bike.
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13. Don't weave through traffic or make any moves that may surprise
people with whom you are sharing the road.
14. Observe and yield the right of way.
15. Never ride your bicycle while under the influence of alcohol or
drugs.
16. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when visibility is obscured,
at dusk or in the dark, or when extremely tired. Each of these conditions
increases the risk of accident.
C. RULES OF THE TRAIL
1. Be prepared. If something goes wrong while you're riding off-road, the
closest help may be miles away. See Section 8 for the equipment you
should take with you on an off-road ride.
2. Don't ride alone in remote areas. Even when riding with others, make
sure that someone knows where you're going and when you expect to be
back.
3. Surface hazards make off-road riding much more difficult and there-
fore more dangerous than riding on paved roads. Start slowly and build
up your skills on easier terrain before tackling the more difficult.
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4. Learn and obey the local laws regulating where and how you can ride
off-road, and respect private property. Don't ride where you are not wel-
come or where you are not allowed.
5. You are sharing the trail with others -- hikers, equestrians, other
cyclists. Respect their rights, and be tolerant if they inconvenience you.
6. Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals. Ride in a way that
does not frighten or endanger them, and stay far enough away so that
their unexpected moves don't endanger you.
7. You may be riding in sensitive habitat, so stay on the designated
trail. Don't contribute to erosion by riding in mud or with unnecessary
sliding. Don't disturb wildlife or livestock; and don't disturb the ecosys-
tem by cutting your own trail through vegetation or streams.
8. It is your responsibility to minimize your impact on the environment.
Ride accordingly. Leave things as you found them; and always take out
everything you brought in.
D. DOWNHILL MOUNTAIN BIKING
To ride downhill at speed or in competition is to voluntarily assume an
increased risk of injury or death. When riding downhill, you can reach
speeds seen on motorcycles, and therefore face similar hazards and
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risks. Wear appropriate safety gear, including an approved full face helmet,
full finger gloves, and body armor. Have your bicycle and equipment careful-
ly inspected by a qualified mechanic and be sure it is in perfect condition.
Consult with expert riders and race officials on conditions and equipment
advisable at the site where you plan to ride. Ultimately, it is your responsi-
bility to have proper equipment and to be familiar with course conditions.
WARNING: Downhill mountain biking can le ad to s e rious accide nts . We ar
appropriate s afe ty ge ar and be s ure your bike is prope rly maintaine d.
Follow all ins tructions above . Eve n with s tate -of-the -art prote ctive s afe -
ty ge ar, you could be s e rious ly injure d or kille d whe n doing downhill
mountain biking.
!
If your bike has s us pe ns ion, the incre as e d s pe e d you may de ve lop als o
incre as e s your ris k. Whe n braking, the front of a s us pe nde d bike dips .
You could los e control and fall if your s kill is not up to handling this s ys -
te m. Ge t to know how to handle your s us pe ns ion s ys te m s afe ly be fore
trying any downhill or ve ry fas t mountain biking.
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E. WET WEATHER RIDING
WARNING: We t we athe r impairs traction, braking and vis ibility, both
for the bicyclis t and for othe r ve hicle s s haring the road. The ris k of
an accide nt is dramatically incre as e d in we t conditions .
!
Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your brakes (as well as the
brakes of other vehicles sharing the road) is dramatically reduced and
your tires don't grip nearly as well. This makes it harder to control speed
and easier to lose control. To make sure that you can slow down and
stop safely in wet conditions, ride more slowly and apply your brakes
earlier and more gradually than you would under normal, dry conditions.
See also Section 6.C.
F. NIGHT RIDING
Riding a bicycle at night is many times more dangerous than riding
during the day. Therefore, children should never ride at dawn, at dusk
or at night. Adults should not ride at dusk or at night unless it is
absolutely necessary.
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WARNING: Riding at dawn, at dus k, afte r dark or at time s of poor
vis ibility without a bicycle lighting s ys te m which me e ts local and
s tate laws and without re fle ctors is ille gal, dange rous and can re s ult
in s e rious injury or de ath.
!
Even if you have excellent night vision, many of the people with whom
you're sharing the road don't. A bicyclist is very difficult for motorists
and pedestrians to see at dawn, at dusk, at night, or at other times of
poor visibility. If you must ride under these conditions, check and be
sure you comply with all local laws about night riding; follow the Rules
of the Road and of the Trail even more carefully, and you must take the
following additional precautions:
Before riding at dawn, at dusk or at night, take the following steps to
make yourself more visible:
◆ Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with correctly positioned and
securely mounted reflectors (see Section 4 B).
◆ Purchase and install an adequate battery or generator powered headlight
and tail light.
◆ Wear light colored, reflective clothing and accessories, such as a reflec-
tive vest, reflective arm and leg bands, reflective stripes on your helmet,
33
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flashing lights ... any reflective device or light source that moves will
help you get the attention of approaching motorists, pedestrians and
other traffic
◆ Make sure your clothing or anything you may be carrying on the bicycle
does not obstruct a reflector or light.
When riding at dusk or at night,
◆ Ride slowly.
◆ Avoid areas of heavy traffic, dark areas,
and roads with speed limits over 35 mph.
◆ Avoid road hazards.
◆ If possible, ride on routes already familiar to you.
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H
OW
T
HINGS
It's important to your performance, enjoyment and safety to under-
stand how things work on your bicycle. Even if you're an experienced
bicyclist, don't assume that the way things work on your new bike is the
same as how they work on older bikes. Be sure to read -- and to under-
stand -- this section of the Manual. If you have even the slightest doubt
as to whether you understand something, talk to your dealer.
6
W
ORK
A. WHEEL QUICK RELEASE
WARNING: Riding with an imprope rly adjus te d whe e l quick re le as e
can allow the whe e l to wobble or dis e ngage from the bicycle ,
caus ing damage to the bicycle , and s e rious injury or de ath to the
ride r. The re fore , it is e s s e ntial that you:
!
1. As k your de ale r to he lp you make s ure you know
how to ins tall and re move your whe e ls s afe ly.
2. Unde rs tand and apply the corre ct te chnique for
clamping your whe e l in place with a quick re le as e .
3. Each time , be fore you ride the bike ,
che ck that the whe e l is s e cure ly clampe d.
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Invented in the 1930s to allow quick, easy wheel removal without the
need for tools, the bicycle wheel quick release has become standard
equipment on most recreational, sports and competition bicycles. While
it looks like a long bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on the other,
the wheel quick release uses a cam action to clamp the bike's wheel in
place (see fig. 11). Because of its adjustable nature, it is critical that
you understand how it works and how to use it properly.
CAUTION: The full force of the cam action is ne e de d to clamp the
whe e l s e cure ly. Holding the nut with one hand and turning the le ve r
like a wing nut with the othe r hand until e ve rything is as tight as you
can ge t it will not clamp the whe e l s afe ly in the dropouts.
!
closed position
open
closed
closed
open
turn to adjust
clamping force
fig. 11 Quick Release Cam
open position
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1. Adjusting the quick release mechanism (see Fig. 11, opposite)
The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the quick release cam
pushing against one dropout and pulling the tension adjusting nut, by
way of the skewer, against the other dropout. The amount of clamping
force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension
adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating
increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keep-
ing the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than
half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between
safe clamping force and unsafe clamping force.
NOTE: Once the quick release is installed in the hub axle by the manu-
facturer or the dealer, it never needs to be removed unless the hub itself
requires servicing. If the hub requires servicing, consult your dealer.
2. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices
Many bicycles have front forks which utilize a secondary wheel retention
device to keep the wheel from disengaging if the quick release is incor-
rectly adjusted. Se condary re te ntion de vice s are not a s ubs titute for
corre ct quick re le as e adjus tme nt.
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Secondary retention devices fall into two basic categories:
a) The clip-on type is an accessory part which the
manufacturer adds to the front wheel hub or front fork.
b) The integral type is molded, cast or machined
into the outer faces of the front fork dropouts.
Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary retention device on
your bike.
WARNING: Re moving or dis abling the s e condary re te ntion de vice is
e xtre me ly dange rous and may le ad to s e rious injury or de ath. It
als o may void the warranty.
!
3. Re moving or Ins talling Quick Re le as e Whe e ls
a. Removing a Quick Release Front Wheel
(1) Open up the brake shoes (see Section 6.C.1, Figs. 16a, b, c and d).
(2) Rotate the wheel’s quick-release lever from the locked or CLOSED
position to the OPEN position (Fig. 11, 12 & 13).
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(3) If your front fork does not have a secondary retention device go to
step 5.
(4) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disen-
gage it and go to step (5). If your front fork has an integral secondary
retention device, loosen the tension adjusting enough to allow removing the
wheel; then go to step (5).
(5) Raise the front wheel a few inches off the ground and tap the top of the
wheel with the palm of your hand to knock the wheel out of the front fork.
close
b. Installing a Quick Release Front Wheel
fig. 12 QR Closed Position
(1) Rotate the quick-release lever so that it curves away from the wheel
(fig. 11 & 13). This is the OPEN position.
(2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork
blades so that the axle seats firmly at the top of the slots which are at the
tips of the fork blades -- the fork dropouts. The quick-release lever should
be on the left side of the bicycle (fig. 12 & 13). If your bike has a clip-on
type secondary retention device, engage it.
open
fig. 13 QR Open Position
(3) Holding the quick-release lever in the OPEN position with your right
hand, tighten the tension adjusting nut with your left hand until it is finger
tight against the fork dropout (fig. 11).
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(4) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork
dropouts, and at the same time centering the wheel rim in the fork,
rotate the quick-release lever upwards and push it into the CLOSED
position (fig. 11 & 12). The lever should be parallel to the fork blade
and curved toward the wheel.
CAUTION: If you can fully clos e the quick re le as e without wrapping
your finge rs around the fork blade for le ve rage , and the le ve r doe s
not le ave a cle ar imprint in the palm of your hand, the te ns ion is
ins ufficie nt. Ope n the le ve r; turn the te ns ion adjus ting nut clockwis e
a quarte r turn; the n try again.
!
(5) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the
fork blade, return the lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the tension
adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try tightening the
lever again.
(6) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is
centered in the frame and clears the brake shoes.
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WARNING: Se condary re te ntion de vice s are not a s ubs titute for corre ct
quick re le as e adjus tme nt. Failure to prope rly adjus t the quick re le as e
me chanis m can caus e the whe e l to wobble or dis e ngage , which could
caus e you to loos e control and fall, re s ulting in s e rious injury or de ath.
!
c. Removing a Quick Release Rear Wheel
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest, outermost rear sprocket).
(2) Open up the brake shoes (see Section 6.C.1, figs. 16A, B, C and D).
(3) Pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
(4) Rotate the quick-release lever to the OPEN position (fig. 11 & 13).
(5) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and, with the derailleur
still pulled back, push the wheel forward and down until it comes out of the
rear dropouts.
d. Installing a Quick Release Rear Wheel
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position.
(2) Pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
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(3) Rotate the quick-release lever to the OPEN position (see fig. 11).
The lever should be on the side of the wheel opposite the derailleur
and freewheel sprockets.
(4) Put the chain on top of the smallest freewheel sprocket. Then,
insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it all the way in to
the dropouts (fig. 14).
(5) Tighten the adjusting nut until it is finger tight against the frame
dropout; then rotate the lever toward the front of the bike until it is
parallel to the frame's chainstay or seatstay and is curved toward the
wheel (fig. 14).
fig. 14 Wheel in Rear Dropouts
CAUTION: If you can fully clos e the quick re le as e without wrapping
your finge rs around the fork blade for le ve rage , and the le ve r doe s
not le ave a cle ar imprint in the palm of your hand, the te ns ion is
ins ufficie nt. Ope n the le ve r; turn the te ns ion adjus ting nut clock-
wis e a quarte r turn; the n try again.
!
(6) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to
the chainstay or seatstay tube, return the lever to the OPEN position.
Then turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try
tightening again.
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(7) Push the rear derailleur back into position.
(8) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure
that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake shoes.
4. Re moving and Ins talling Bolt-On Whe e ls
a. Removing a Bolt-On Front Wheel
(1) Open up the brake shoes (see Section 6.C.1, figs. 16A, B, C
and D).
(2) With a 15mm box wrench or a six inch adjustable wrench,
loosen the two axle nuts.
open
(3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device,
disengage it and go to step (4). If your front fork has an integral
secondary retention device, loosen the axle nuts about six full turns;
then go to step (4).
closed
Bolt-on Wheel in Front Dropouts
fig. 15b
(4) Raise the front wheel a few inches off the ground and tap the top of
the wheel with the palm of your hand to knock the wheel out of the fork
ends.
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b. Installing a Bolt-On Front Wheel
(1) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the
fork blades so that the axle seats firmly at the top of the slots which are
at the tips of the fork blades. The axle nut washers should be on the out-
side, between the fork blade and the axle nut. If your bike has a clip-on
type secondary retention device, engage it.
(2) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork
dropouts, and at the same time centering the wheel rim in the fork, use
a six-inch adjustable wrench or a 15mm box wrench to tighten the axle
nuts as tight as you can.
(3) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is
centered in the frame and clears the brake shoes.
c. Removing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel
(1) Open the rear brake shoes (see Section 6.C.1, figs. 16A, B, C and D).
(2) Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest rear sprocket) and
pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
(3) With a 15mm box wrench or a six-inch adjustable wrench, loosen the
two axle nuts.
fig. 15b
Bolt-on Wheel in Rear Dropouts
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(4) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and, with the
derailleur still pulled back, push the wheel forward and down until it
comes out of the rear dropouts.
d. Installing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position and pull the
derailleur body back with your right hand.
(2) Put the chain on to the smallest sprocket. Then, insert the wheel
into the frame dropouts and pull it all the way in to the dropouts. The
axle nut washers should be on the outside, between the frame and the
axle nut.
(3) Tighten the axle nuts as tightly as you can, using a six-inch
adjustable wrench or a 15mm box wrench.
(4) Push the rear derailleur back into position.
(5) Close the brake; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered
in the frame and clears the brake shoes.
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B. SEATPOST QUICK RELEASE
Many mountain bikes are equipped with quick-release seat post
binders. The seatpost quick-release binder works exactly like the wheel
quick-release (Section 6.A.1) While a quick release looks like a long
bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on the other, the quick release
uses a cam action to firmly clamp the seat post (see Figs. 7B and 11 ).
WARNING: Riding with an imprope rly tighte ne d s e at pos t can allow
the s addle to turn or move and caus e you to los e control and fall.
The re fore :
!
1. As k your de ale r to he lp you make s ure you
know how to corre ctly clamp your s e at pos t.
2. Unde rs tand and apply the corre ct te chnique
for clamping your s e at pos t quick re le as e .
3. Be fore you ride the bike , firs t che ck
that the s e atpos t is s e cure ly clampe d.
Adjusting the quick release mechanism
The action of the quick release cam squeezes the seat collar around
the seat post to hold the seat post securely in place. The amount of
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clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the
tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating
increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping
the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half
a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safe
clamping force and unsafe clamping force.
CAUTION: The full force of the cam action is ne e de d to clamp the
s e atpos t s e cure ly. Holding the nut with one hand and turning the
le ve r like a wing nut with the othe r hand until e ve rything is as tight
as you can ge t it will not clamp the s e atpos t s afe ly.
!
!
CAUTION: If you can fully clos e the quick re le as e without wrapping
your finge rs around a frame tube for le ve rage , and the le ve r doe s not
le ave a cle ar imprint in the palm of your hand, the te ns ion is ins uffi-
cie nt. Ope n the le ve r; turn the te ns ion adjus ting nut clockwis e a
quarte r turn; the n try again.
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C. BRAKES
NOTE: For most effective braking, use both
brakes and apply them simultaneously.
WARNING: Sudde n or e xce s s ive application of the front brake may
pitch the ride r ove r the handle bars , caus ing s e rious injury or de ath.
!
1. How brakes work
It's important to your safety that you instinctively know which brake lever
controls which brake on your bike. In the U.S., bikes are required to be
set up with the right brake lever controlling the rear brake, and the
left lever controlling the front brake.
The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction between the
brake surfaces -- usually the brake shoes and the wheel rim. To make
sure that you have maximum friction available, keep your wheel rims
and brake shoes clean and free of lubricants, waxes or polishes.
open
fig. 16A
Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the brake levers com-
fortably. If your hands are too small to operate the levers comfortably,
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consult your dealer before riding the bike. The lever reach may be
adjustable; or you may need a different brake lever design.
Most brakes have some form of quick release mechanism to allow the
brake shoes to clear the tire when a wheel is removed or reinstalled.
When the brake quick release is in the open position, the brakes are
inoperative. Ask your dealer to make sure that you understand the way
the brake quick release works on your bike (see Fig. 16A, B, C & D)
and check each time to make sure both brakes work correctly before
you get on the bike.
fig. 16B
Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop the bike.
Maximum braking force for each wheel occurs at the point just
before the wheel "locks up" (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the
tire skids, you actually lose most of your stopping force and all
directional control. You need to practice slowing and stopping
smoothly without locking up a wheel. The technique is called progres-
sive brake modulation. Instead of jerking the brake lever to the
position where you think you'll generate appropriate braking force,
squeeze the lever, progressively increasing the braking force. If you
feel the wheel begin to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep
the wheel rotating just short of lockup. It's important to develop a feel
for the amount of brake lever pressure required for each wheel at
open
fig. 16C
push
fig. 16D
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different speeds and on different surfaces. To better understand this,
experiment a little by walking your bike and applying different amounts
of pressure to each brake lever, until the wheel locks.
WARNING: Some bicycle brake s , s uch as line ar-pull (fig 16B) and
dis c brake s , are e xtre me ly powe rful. You s hould take e xtra care in
be coming familiar with the s e brake s and e xe rcis e particular care
whe n us ing the m. Applying the s e brake s too hard or too s udde nly
can lock up a whe e l, which could caus e you to los e control and fall.
!
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, but your
body wants to continue at the speed at which it was going. This causes
a transfer of weight to the front wheel (or, under heavy braking, around
the front wheel hub, which could send you flying over the handle-
bars). A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure
before lockup; a wheel with less weight will lock up with less brake pres-
sure. So, as you apply brakes and your weight shifts forward, you need
to shift your body toward the rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on
to the rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to both decrease
rear braking and increase front braking force. This is even more
important on steep descents, because descents shift weight forward.
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The keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are controlling
wheel lockup and weight transfer. Practice braking and weight transfer
techniques where there is no traffic or other hazards and distractions.
Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather.
Tire adhesion is reduced, so the wheels have less cornering and braking
traction and can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the
brake shoes reduces their ability to grip. The way to maintain control on
loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly to begin with.
fig. 17A
Brake Lever Adjusting Barrel
2. Adjusting your brakes
If either brake lever on your bike fails the Mechanical Safety Check
(Section 4.C) you can restore brake lever travel by turning the brake
cable adjusting barrel (figs. 17A &B) counterclockwise, then lock
the adjustment in by turning the barrel's lock nut clockwise as far as
it will go. If the lever still fails the Mechanical Safety Check, have your
dealer check the brakes.
fig. 17B
Caliper Brake Adjusting Barrel
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D. SHIFTING
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain (see 2. below),
an internal gear hub drivetrain (see 3. below) or, in some special cases,
a combination of the two.
1. Why all those gears?
You will get the greatest fitness benefit, produce the greatest sustained
power and have the greatest endurance if you learn to spin the pedals at
high revolutions per minute (called cadence) against low resistance. You
will get the least fitness benefit and have the least endurance by push-
ing hard on the pedals against heavy resistance. The purpose of having
multiple gears on a bicycle is to let you chose the gear that allows you
to maintain your optimum cadence under the widest range of riding con-
ditions. Depending on your fitness level and experience (the more fit,
the higher the cadence), optimum cadence is between 60 and 90
pedal revolutions per minute.
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2. Shifting a derailleur drivetrain
If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-changing mechanism
will consist of:
downshift
upshift
◆ a rear sprocket cluster, called a freewheel or freewheel cassette
◆ a rear derailleur
upshift
fig. 18A
downshift
◆ usually a front derailleur
◆ one or two shifters
◆ one or two control cables
downshift
upshift
◆ one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings
◆ a drive chain
upshift
downshift
fig. 18B
The number of possible gear combinations ("speeds") is the product of
multiplying the number of sprockets at the rear of the drivetrain by the
number of sprockets at the front (6 x 2 = 12, 6 x 3 = 18, 7 x 3 = 21
and so on).
up
shift
down
shift
down
shift
up
shift
fig. 18C
1
2
3
1
2
3
4
5
a. Shifting Gears
downshift
upshift
1
2
3
1
2
3
4
5
There are many different types of shifter mechanisms, each preferred
for specific types of application because of its ergonomic, performance
and price characteristics. The designers of your bike have selected the
upshift
fig. 18D
downshift
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shifter design which they believe will give the best results on your bike.
The different types of shifters and their operation are illustrated in
figures 18A through 18H. Identify the shifters on your bike before
reading on.
down
shift
up
shift
up
shift
fig. 18E
down
shift
The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing. A downshift is a
shift to a “slower” gear, one which is easier to pedal. An upshift is a
shift to a "faster", harder to pedal gear. What's confusing is that what's
happening at the front derailleur is the opposite of what's happening at
the rear derailleur (for details, read the instructions on Shifting the
Rear Derailleur and Shifting the Front Derailleur below). For example,
you can select a gear which will make pedaling easier on a hill (make a
downshift) in one of two ways: shift the chain down the gear
“steps” to a smaller gear at the front, or up the gear “steps” to a
downshift
up shift
up
shift
down
shift
fig. 18F
downshift
up
shift
up shift
larger gear at the rear. So, at the rear gear cluster, what is called
a
downshift looks like an upshift. The way to keep things straight is to
remember that shifting the chain in towards the centerline of the bike
is for accelerating and climbing and is called a downshift. Moving
the chain out or away from the centerline of the bike is for speed and is
called an upshift.
down
shift
fig. 18G
down
shift
Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle derailleur system design
requires that the drive chain be moving forward and be under at least
some tension. A derailleur will shift only if you are pedaling forward.
up
shift
upshift
54
down
shift
fig. 18H
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CAUTION: Ne ve r move the s hifte r while pe daling backward, nor pe dal
backwards afte r having move d the s hifte r. This could jam the chain and
caus e s e rious damage to the bicycle .
!
!
WARNING: Never shift a misadjusted derailleur onto the largest or the
smallest sprocket. The chain could jam, causing you to lose control and fall.
1) Shifting the Rear Derailleur
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter.
The function of the rear derailleur is to move the drive chain from one gear to
another on the rear gear cluster, thereby changing gear drive ratios. The
smaller sprockets on the gear cluster produce higher gear ratios. Pedaling in
the higher gears requires greater pedaling effort, but takes you a greater dis-
tance with each revolution of the pedal cranks. The larger sprockets produce
lower gear ratios. Using them requires less pedaling effort, but takes you a
shorter distance with each pedal crank revolution. Moving the chain from a
smaller sprocket of the gear cluster to a larger sprocket results in a
downshift. Moving the chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller sprock-
et results in an upshift. In order for the derailleur to disengage the chain
from one sprocket and move it on to another, the chain must be moving for-
ward (i.e. the rider must be pedaling forward).
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2) Shifting the Front Derailleur:
The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left shifter, shifts the
chain between the larger and smaller chainrings. Shifting the chain
onto a smaller chainring makes pedaling easier (a downshift).
Shifting to a larger chainring makes pedaling harder (an upshift).
b) Which gear should I be in?
The combination of largest rear, smallest front gears (Fig. 19) is
for the steepest hills. The smallest rear, largest front combination
(Fig. 19) is for the greatest speed. It is not necessary to shift gears in
sequence. Instead, find the “starting gear” which is right for your level
of ability -- a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy
enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling -- and experiment
with upshifting and downshifting to get a feel for the different gear
combinations. At first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles,
hazards or other traffic, until you've built up your confidence. Once
you've learned the basics, experience will teach you which gear is
appropriate for which condition, and practice will help you shift
smoothly and at precisely the optimum moment.
hills
speed
fig. 19 Chain
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3. Shifting an internal gear hub drivetrain
If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the gear changing mech-
anism will consist of:
◆ a 3, 5, 7 or possibly 12 speed internal gear hub
◆ one, or sometimes two shifters
◆ one or two control cables
◆ one front sprockets called chainrings
◆ a drive chain
a) Shifting internal gear hub gears
Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of moving
the shifter to the indicated position for the desired gear. After you have
moved the shifter to the gear position of your choice, ease the pressure on
the pedals for an instant to allow the hub to complete the shift.
b) Which gear should I be in?
The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The numerically
largest gear (3, 5, 7 or 12, depending on the number of speeds of your
hub) is for the greatest speed.
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Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to a harder, “faster” gear
(like 2 or 3) is called an upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear
to an easier, “slower” gear is called a downshift. It is not necessary to
shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the "starting gear" for the condi-
tions -- a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy
enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling -- and experiment
with upshifting and downshifting to get a feel for the different gears. At
first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or other
traffic, until you've built up your confidence. Once you've learned the
basics, experience will teach you which gear is appropriate for which
condition, and practice will help you shift smoothly and at precisely the
optimum moment.
E. TOECLIPS & STRAPS
Toeclips and straps are the traditional means which experienced cyclists
use to keep their feet correctly positioned and engaged with the pedals.
The toeclip positions the ball of the foot over the pedal spindle, which
gives maximum pedaling power. The toe strap, when tightened, keeps
the foot engaged throughout the rotation cycle of the pedal. While toe-
clips and straps give some benefit with any kind of shoe, they work most
effectively with cycling shoes designed for use with toeclips. Your dealer
can explain how toeclips and straps work.
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WARNING: Ge tting into and out of pe dals with toe clips and s traps
re quire s s kill which can only be acquire d with practice . Until it be come s
a re fle x action, the te chnique re quire s conce ntration which can dis tract
the ride r's atte ntion, caus ing you to los e control and fall. Practice the
us e of toe clips and s traps whe re the re are no obs tacle s , hazards or traf-
fic. Ke e p the s traps loos e , and don't tighte n the m until your te chnique
and confide nce in ge tting in and out of the pe dals warrants it. Ne ve r ride
in traffic with your toe s traps tight.
!
F. CLIPLESS (“STEP-IN”) PEDALS
Clipless pedals (sometimes called "step-in pedals") are the means most rac-
ers use to keep their feet securely in the correct position for maximum ped-
aling efficiency. They work like ski bindings ... a plate on the sole of the
shoe clicks into a spring-loaded fixture on the pedal. Clipless pedals require
shoes specifically designed for the make and model pedal being used.
Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider to adjust the amount of
force needed to engage or disengage the foot. Your dealer can show you how
to make this adjustment.
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WARNING: Cliple s s pe dals are inte nde d for us e with s hoe s s pe cifi-
cally made to fit the m and are de s igne d to firmly ke e p the foot
e ngage d with the pe dal. Practice is re quire d to le arn to e ngage and
dis e ngage the foot s afe ly. Until e ngaging and dis e ngaging the foot
be come s a re fle x action, the te chnique re quire s conce ntration
which can dis tract the ride r's atte ntion, caus ing the ride r to los e
control and fall. Practice e ngaging and dis e ngaging cliple s s pe dals
in a place whe re the re are no obs tacle s , hazards or traffic; and be
s ure that you follow the s e tup and s e rvice ins tructions and warn-
ings which came with your pe dals .
!
G. TIRES AND TUBES
1. Tires
Bicycle tires are available in many designs and specifications, ranging
from general-purpose designs to tires designed to perform best under
very specific weather or terrain conditions. Your bicycle has been
equipped with tires which the bike's manufacturer felt were the best
balance of performance and value for the use for which the bike was
intended. If, once you've gained experience with your new bike, you
feel that a different tire might better suit your riding needs, your dealer
can help you select the most appropriate design.
fig. 20 Tire Markings
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The size, pressure rating, and on some high-performance tires the specific
recommended use, are marked on the sidewall of the tire (see Fig. 20). The
part of this information which is most important to you is Tire Pressure.
WARNING: Ne ve r inflate a tire be yond the maximum pre s s ure marke d on
the tire 's s ide wall. Exce e ding the re comme nde d maximum pre s s ure may
blow the tire off the rim, which could caus e damage to the bike and
injury to the ride r and bys tande rs .
!
!
The best way to inflate a bicycle tire to the correct pressure is with a bicycle
pump. Your dealer can help you select an appropriate pump.
CAUTION: Gas s tation air hos e s move a large volume of air ve ry rapidly,
and will rais e the pre s s ure in your tire ve ry rapidly. To avoid ove rinfla-
tion whe n us ing a gas s tation air hos e , put air into your tire in s hort,
s pace d burs ts .
Tire pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as a pressure
range. How a tire performs under different terrain or weather conditions
depends largely on tire pressure.
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Inflating the tire to near its maximum recommended pressure gives the
lowest rolling resistance; but also produces the harshest ride. High pres-
sures work best on smooth, dry pavement.
Very low pressures, at the bottom of the recommended pressure range,
give the best performance on smooth, slick terrain such as hard-packed
clay, and on deep, loose surfaces such as deep, dry sand.
Tire pressure that is too low for your weight and the riding conditions can
cause a puncture of the tube by allowing the tire to deform sufficiently
to pinch the inner tube between the rim and the riding surface.
CAUTION: Pe ncil type automotive tire gauge s and gas s tation air
hos e pre s s ure s e ttings can be inaccurate and s hould not be re lie d
upon for cons is te nt, accurate pre s s ure re adings . Ins te ad, us e a high
quality dial gauge .
!
Ask your dealer to recommend the best tire pressure for the kind of rid-
ing you will most often do, and have the dealer inflate your tires to that
pressure. Then, check inflation as described in Section 4.C so you'll
know how correctly inflated tires should look and feel. Some tires may
need to be brought up to pressure every week or two.
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Some special high-performance tires have unidirectional treads: their tread
pattern is designed to work better in one direction than in the other. The
sidewall marking of a unidirectional tire will have an arrow showing the cor-
rect rotation direction. If your bike has unidirectional tires, be sure that they
are mounted to rotate in the correct direction.
2. Tire Valves
The tire valve allows air to enter the tire's inner tube under pressure, but
doesn't let it back out unless you want it to.
There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves (actually, there are other
designs, but they are seldom seen in the US any more): The Schraeder Valve
and the Presta Valve. The bicycle pump you use must have the fitting appro-
priate to the valve stems on your bicycle.
The Schraeder (Fig. 21a) is like the valve on a car tire. To inflate a
Schraeder valve tube, remove the valve cap and push the air hose or pump
fitting onto the end of the valve stem. To let air out of a Schraeder valve,
depress the pin in the end of the valve stem with the end of a key or other
appropriate object.
fig. 21A Schraeder Valve
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The Presta valve (Fig. 21b) has a narrower diameter and is only found
on bicycle tires. To inflate a Presta valve tube using a Presta headed
bicycle pump, remove the valve cap; unscrew (counterclockwise) the
valve stem lock nut; and push down on the valve stem to free it up.
Then push the pump head on to the valve head, and inflate. To inflate a
Presta valve with a gas station air hose, you'll need a Presta adapter
(available at your bike shop) which screws on to the valve stem once
you've freed up the valve. The adapter fits the end of the air hose fitting.
Close the valve after inflation. To let air out of a Presta valve, open up
the valve stem lock nut and depress the valve stem.
valve stem
lock nut
fig. 21B Presta Valve
H. Bicycle Sus pe ns ion
Some Mountain Bikes come equipped with suspension systems which
are designed to smooth out some of the shocks encountered in off-road
riding. There are many different types of suspension systems --- too
many to deal with individually in this Manual. If your bicycle has a
suspension system of any kind, ask your dealer to provide you with
the appropriate adjustment and maintenance instructions.
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WARNING: Failure to maintain, che ck and prope rly adjus t the s us pe n-
s ion s ys te m may re s ult in s us pe ns ion malfunction, which may caus e
you to los e control and fall.
!
!
CAUTION: Changing s us pe ns ion adjus tme nt can change the handling
and braking characte ris tics of your bicycle . Ne ve r change s us pe ns ion
adjus tme nt unle s s you are thoroughly familiar with the s us pe ns ion s ys -
te m manufacture r's ins tructions and re comme ndations , and always
che ck for change s in the handling and braking characte ris tics of the
bicycle afte r a s us pe ns ion adjus tme nt by taking a care ful te s t ride in a
hazard-fre e are a.
CAUTION: Not all bicycle s can be s afe ly re trofitte d with s ome type s of
s us pe ns ion s ys te ms . Be fore re trofitting a bicycle with any s us pe ns ion,
che ck with the bicycle 's manufacture r to make s ure that what you
want to do is compatible with the bicycle 's de s ign.
!
!
WARNING: If your bike has s us pe ns ion, the incre as e d s pe e d you may
de ve lop als o incre as e s your ris k. Whe n braking, the front of a s us pe nd-
e d bike dips . You could los e control and fall if your s kill is not up to
handling this s ys te m. Ge t to know how to handle your s us pe ns ion s ys -
te m s afe ly be fore trying any downhill or ve ry fas t mountain biking.
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Suspension can increase the handling capabilities and comfort of your
bicycle. This enhanced capability may allow you to ride faster; but you
must not confuse the enhanced capabilities of the bicycle with your own
capabilities as a rider. Increasing your skill will take time and practice.
Proceed carefully until you are sure you are competent to handle the full
capabilities of your bike.
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S
ERVICE AND
NOTE: Technological advances have made bicycles and bicycle components
more complex than ever before, and the pace of innovation is increasing.
This ongoing evolution makes it impossible for this manual to provide all the
information required to properly repair and/or maintain your bicycle. In order
to help minimize the chances of an accident and possible injury, it is critical
that you have any repair or maintenance which is not specifically described
in this manual performed by your dealer.
7
M
AINTENANCE
Equally important is that your individual maintenance requirements will
be determined by everything from your riding style to geographic location.
Consult your dealer for help in determining your maintenance requirements.
How much of your bike’s service and maintenance you can do yourself
depends on your level of skill and experience, and on whether you have the
special tools required.
WARNING: Many bicycle s e rvice and re pair tas ks re quire s pe cial knowl-
e dge and tools . Do not be gin any adjus tme nts or s e rvice on your bicycle
if you have the s lighte s t doubt about your ability to prope rly comple te
the m. Imprope r adjus tme nt or s e rvice may re s ult in damage to the
bicycle or in an accide nt which can caus e s e rious injury or de ath.
!
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If you want to learn to do major service and repair work on your bike,
you have three options:
1. Ask your dealer whether copies of the manufacturer’s installation and
service instructions for the components on your bike are available.
2. Ask your dealer to recommend a book on bicycle repair.
3. Ask your dealer about the availability of bicycle
repair courses in your area.
Regardless of which option you select, we recommend that you ask your
dealer to check the quality of your work the first time you work on some-
thing and before you ride the bike, just to make sure that you did every-
thing correctly. Since that will require the time of a mechanic, there
may be a modest charge for this service.
A. SERVICE & MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
Some service and maintenance can and should be performed by the
owner, and require no special tools or knowledge beyond what is presented
in this manual.
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The following are examples of the type of service you should perform
yourself. All othe r s e rvice , mainte nance and re pair s hould be pe r-
forme d in a prope rly e quippe d facility by a qualifie d bicycle
me chanic us ing the corre ct tools and proce dure s s pe cifie d by the
manufacture r.
1. Break-in Period: Your bike will last longer and work better if you break
it in before riding it hard. Control cables and wheel spokes may stretch
or “seat” when a new bike is first used and may require readjustment by
your dealer. Your Mechanical Safety Check (Section 4.C) will help you
identify some things that need readjustment. But even if everything
seems fine to you, it’s best to take your bike back to the dealer for a
checkup. Dealers typically suggest you bring the bike in for a 30 day
checkup. Another way to judge when it’s time for the first checkup is to
bring the bike in after three to five hours of hard off-road use, or
about 10 to 15 hours of on-road or more casual off-road use
.
But if you think something is wrong with the bike, take it to your dealer
before riding it again.
2. Before every ride: Mechanical Safety Check (see Section 4.C)
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3. After every long or hard ride; if the bike has been exposed to water or
grit; or at least every 100 miles: Clean the bike and lightly oil the chain,
freewheel cogs and rear derailleur pulley bushings. Wipe off excess oil.
Lubrication is a function of climate. Talk to your dealer about the best
lubricants and the recommended lubrication frequency for your area.
4. After every long or hard ride or after 10 to 20 hours of riding:
◆ Squeeze the front brake and rock the bike forward and back.
Everything feel solid? If you feel a clunk with each forward or
backward movement of the bike, you probably have a loose
headset. Have your dealer check it.
◆ Lift the front wheel off the ground and swing it from side to side.
Feel smooth? If you feel any binding or roughness in the steering,
you may have a tight headset. Have your dealer check it.
◆ Grab one pedal and rock it toward and away from the centerline
of the bike; then do the same with the other pedal. Anything feel
loose? If so, have your dealer check it.
◆ Take a look at the brake shoes. Starting to look worn or not
hitting the wheel rim squarely? Time to have the dealer adjust
or replace them.
◆ Check the control cables and cable housings. Any rust? Kinks?
Fraying? If so, have your dealer replace them.
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◆ Squeeze each adjoining pair of spokes on either side of each wheel
between your thumb and index finger. Do they all feel about the
same? If any feel loose, have your dealer check the wheel for tension
and trueness.
◆ Check the frame, particularly in the area around all tube joints, the
handlebars, the stem and the seatpost for any deep scratches, cracks
or discoloration. These are signs of stress-caused fatigue and indicate
that a part is at the end of its useful life and needs to be replaced.
◆ Check to make sure that all parts and accessories are still secure,
and tighten any which are not.
WARNING: Like any me chanical de vice , a bicycle and its compone nts
are s ubje ct to we ar and s tre s s . Diffe re nt mate rials and me chanis ms
we ar or fatigue from s tre s s at diffe re nt rate s and have diffe re nt life
cycle s . If a compone nt’s life cycle is e xce e de d, the compone nt can
s udde nly and catas trophically fail, caus ing s e rious injury or de ath to
the ride r. Scratche s , cracks , fraying and dis coloration are s igns of
s tre s s -caus e d fatigue and indicate that a part is at the e nd of its us e -
ful life and ne e ds to be re place d.
!
5. As required:
If either brake lever fails the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 4.C):
71
restore brake lever travel by turning the brake cable adjusting barrel
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counterclockwise, then lock the adjustment in by turning the barrel’s
lock nut clockwise as far as it will go. If the lever still fails the
Mechanical Safety Check, have your dealer check the brakes.
If the chain won’t shift smoothly and quietly from gear to gear: the
derailleur is out of adjustment. The cause may be as simple as cable
stretch, in which case you can compensate by turning the shifter or
derailleur cable adjusting barrel counterclockwise 1/2 turn. Try shifting
again. If 1/2 turn to a full turn of the cable adjusting barrel does not cure
the problem, see your dealer.
6. Every 25 (hard off-road) to 50 (on-road) hours of riding: Take your
bike to your dealer for a complete checkup.
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G
ETTING
Unless you’re going for a short ride in the neighborhood, or you can walk home
or call someone to pick you up if something breaks, you should never go for a
bike ride without the following emergency equipment:
8
HOME WHEN
SOMETHING
BREAKS
◆ 4mm, 5mm and 6mm Allen wrenches, used to tighten various clamping
bolts that may loosen
◆ Patch kit and a spare inner tube
◆ Tire levers
◆ Tire pump or cartridge inflator with correct head to fit your tire valves (see
Section 6.G.2)
◆ Some kind of identification (so people know who you are in case of accident)
◆ A couple of dollars in cash (for a candy bar, cool drink or emergency
phone call)
1. If you ge t a flat tire : Depress the tire valve to let all the air out of the tube
(see Section 6.G2). Remove the wheel from the bicycle (see Section 6.A.3 or
4). Remove one bead of the tire from the rim by grasping it at a point opposite
the valve stem with both hands and, at the same time, lifting and peeling one
side of the tire off the rim. If the bead is on too tight for you to unseat it with
your hands, use tire levers to lift the bead carefully over the tire rim. Remove
the valve lock nut (if the valve has one) and push the valve stem through the
wheel rim. Remove the inner tube.
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Carefully check the outside and inside of the tire for the cause of the
puncture and remove the cause if it is still there. If the tire is cut, line
the inside of the tire in the area of the cut with something handy – tape,
a spare patch, a piece of inner tube, a dollar bill – whatever will keep
the cut from pinching the inner tube.
Either patch the tube (follow the instructions in your patch kit), or use a
new one.
WARNING: Patching a tube is an e me rge ncy re pair. Care le s s patching
or applying s e ve ral patche s can s e rious ly we ake n the tube , re s ulting
in pos s ible tube failure , which could caus e you to loos e control and
fall. Re place a patche d tube as s oon as pos s ible .
!
Reinstall the tire and tube. Slip one tire bead over the rim. Insert the
tube valve through its hole in the rim, but don’t secure it with the lock-
nut yet. Feed the tube carefully into the cavity of the tire. Inflate the
tube just enough to give it some shape. Starting at the valve stem and
working around both sides of the rim to the side opposite the valve stem,
use your thumbs to push and seat the other bead of the tire inside the
rim. Be careful not to pinch the tube between the tire bead and the
wheel rim. If you have trouble getting the last few inches of bead over
the edge of the rim with thumb pressure, use a tire lever and be careful
not to pinch the tube.
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CAUTION: If you us e a s cre wdrive r or any tool othe r than a tire le ve r, you
are like ly to puncture the tube .
Check to make sure the tire is evenly seated around both sides of the rim and
that the tube is inside the tire beads. Push the valve stem into the tire to
make sure that its base is seated within the tire’s beads. Inflate the tube
slowly to the recommended pressure (see Section 6.G), all the while checking
to make sure that the tire beads stay seated in the rim. Screw down the valve
stem locknut finger-tight. Secure the valve locknut (Presta valve). Replace the
valve cap. Replace the wheel in the bike (see Section 6.A.3 or 4).
!
!
WARNING: Riding your bicycle with a flat or unde rinflate d tire can
s e rious ly damage the tire , tube , and bicycle , and can caus e you to los e
control and fall.
2. If you break a spoke:
A wheel with a loose or broken spoke is much weaker than a fully tensioned
wheel. If you break a spoke while on a ride, you will have to ride home
much more slowly and carefully because the weakened wheel could break
additional spokes and become useless.
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WARNING: A broke n s poke s e rious ly we ake ns the whe e l and may
caus e it to wobble , s triking the brake s or the frame . Riding with a
broke n s poke can caus e you to los e control and fall.
!
!
Twist the broken spoke around the spoke next to it to keep it from flop-
ping around and getting caught between the wheel and the frame. Spin
the wheel to see if the rim clears the brake shoes. If the wheel will not
turn because it is rubbing against a brake shoe, try turning the brake
cable adjusting barrel(s) clockwise to slacken the cable and open up the
brakes (see Section 6.C.2). If the wheel still won’t turn, open the brake’s
quick release (see Figs. 16a through 16d) and secure any loose cable
as best you can. Walk the bike, or if you must, ride it with e xtre me
caution, because you now have only one working brake.
3. If your bicycle sustains an impact:
WARNING: A cras h or othe r impact can put e xtraordinary s tre s s
on bicycle compone nts , caus ing the m to fatigue pre mature ly.
Compone nts s uffe ring from s tre s s fatigue can fail s udde nly and
catas trophically, caus ing los s of control, s e rious injury or de ath.
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First, check yourself for injuries, and take care of them as best you can.
Seek medical help if necessary.
Next, check your bike for damage, and fix what you can.
Then, when you get home, carefully perform the checks described in
Section 7.A.4 and check for any other damaged parts. All bent, scored
or discolored parts are suspect and should be replaced.
!
CAUTION: If you have any doubt about the condition of the bicycle or
any of its parts , take it to your de ale r for a thorough che ck.
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The variety of components and accessories available to enhance the comfort,
performance and appearance of your bicycle is almost endless. Your dealer
can help you select those that will work best for the kind of riding you do.
U
PGRADING
OUR IKE
AND OUR
QUIPMENT
9
Even if you are an experienced rider, don’t assume you can properly install
and operate these components or accessories without first reading any
instructions that are enclosed with the product. Be sure to read, and under-
stand, the instructions that accompany the products you purchase for your
bicycle. If you have the slightest doubt as to their suitability or about your
ability to install them correctly, ask your dealer for help.
Y
B
Y
E
WARNING: Failure to install and ope rate any acce ssory prope rly can
re sult in se rious damage to the bicycle , and se rious injury or de ath to
the ride r.
1. Comfort and Convenience Accessories
!
Once the bike fit (frame size, saddle position and angle, stem length and rise)
is correct, the saddle becomes the single most important comfort accessory.
The comfort of a bicycle saddle depends much more on how the saddle
shape relates to the rider’s body than on the thickness or material of the
padding. Bicycle manufacturers select a saddle shape based on their best
guess of what’s likely to be comfortable for most buyers of that particular
bicycle model. But that doesn’t mean it’s going to be the most comfortable
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shape for you. That’s why your dealer stocks saddles which offer a variety
of shapes, padding, covering materials and prices. If the saddle on your
new bike is uncomfortable, ask your dealer to suggest an alternative.
If you’re planning to spend an hour or more at a time on your bike, get a
pair of cycling glove s. Their padded palms help keep your hands from
getting numb from the vibration of the handlebars (the numbness, called
carpal tunnel syndrome, can become quite painful if not taken care
of), and they’ll provide some abrasion protection for your hands if you fall.
Cycling s horts and cycling je rs e ys are both performance and comfort
accessories. There are two kinds of cycling shorts: the traditional skin-
tight Lycra shorts and loose-fit cycling shorts. Both are designed to
reduce friction and chafing. The washable pad in the crotch of the
shorts both cushions and protects against chafing. Wear them without
underwear to avoid the undergarment’s bunching up and chafing. Also
available are undergarments designed to reduce chafing when worn with
regular street clothes. The jerseys have pockets in the back, so that the
things you carry don’t bang around when you ride. Many are made of special
materials with properties that improve riding comfort and performance.
It’s important to drink plenty of liquids before and during exercise. A
water bottle is an essential companion on a longer ride.
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Some basic tools are also useful. The minimum tool kit you will need to
make adjustments, perform maintenance and handle emergency repairs
should include:
◆ a set of Allen wrenches in 2mm, 4mm, 5mm and 6mm sizes
◆ a set of tire levers
◆ a 6 inch adjustable wrench
◆ a No. 1 Phillips screwdriver and a 1/4 inch flat blade
screwdriver
◆ a tire pump
◆ a tire patching kit and a spare tire tube
2. Performance Upgrades
CAUTION: Changing the compone nts on your bike may void the
warranty. To avoid voiding your warranty, che ck with your de ale r
be fore changing the compone nts on your bike .
!
The most popular way to improve the performance of a bicycle is to
substitute higher priced drivetrain or brake components. Before attempt-
ing to upgrade your drivetrain or brakes, make sure that the components
you plan to install are fully compatible with the rest of the components
on your bike. Your dealer can help you determine component compatibil-
ity and resolve compatibility conflicts.
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Another popular way to improve the performance of a bicycle is to sub-
stitute lighter weight “racing” components. Lighter wheels, tires, handle-
bars and so on can enhance the performance of your bike; but you must
always keep in mind that light weight racing components are not intend-
ed to have the life expectancy of their heavier counterparts, and you
must therefore exercise extra care in checking for signs of stress fatigue
(See Section 7.4)
Suspension forks are also a popular component upgrade. Before
installing a suspension fork on a non-suspension bike or installing a fork
with different travel or geometry characteristics than the original fork on
the bicycle, you must make sure that the frame is designed to take the
change in geometry and the changes in stress characteristics which the
change in fork can cause. Ask your dealer to check with the bike’s man-
ufacturer—or check with the manufacturer’s technical support staff
yourself—before installing a different fork on your bicycle.
WARNING: Sus pe ns ion forks , particularly the “double clamp” and
“triple clamp” de s igns favore d by downhill race rs , put e xtraordinary
s tre s s e s on the he ad tube and front part of the bicycle frame which
the frame ’s de s ign may not be able to handle . Such s tre s s e s can
re s ult in s udde n, catas trophic frame failure , which can caus e s e rious
injury or de ath.
!
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Disc brakes are becoming a more common mountain bike performance
upgrade. Most front suspension forks are designed to accept a disc
brake, and can take the added stresses at the brake mounting points. Be
sure that the fork you are using is designed to accept disc brake stress-
es. Most bicycle frames, however, were not designed for the stresses
which a rear disc brake can put on the seatstay or chainstay. Before
attempting to install a rear disc brake, ask your dealer to check with the
bike’s manufacturer—or check with the manufacturer’s technical support
staff yourself—o make sure that the frame can absorb the localized
stresses at the disc brake’s mounting points.
WARNING: Re ar dis c brake s put e xtraordinary s tre s s e s on the s e at-
s tay or chains tay, which the frame ’s de s ign may not be able to han-
dle . Such s tre s s e s can re s ult in s udde n, catas trophic frame failure ,
which can caus e s e rious injury or de ath.
!
Your dealer has many other comfort and performance accessories that
can increase your cycling enjoyment.
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Your dealer is here to help you get the bike and accessories which are
most appropriate for the kind of riding that you intend to do; and to help
you maintain your equipment so that you can get the maximum enjoy-
ment from it. Your bike shop's staff has the knowledge, tools and expe-
rience to give you reliable advice and competent service. Your dealer
carries the products of a variety of manufacturers so that you can have
the choices which best meet your needs and your budget.
A
BOUT YOUR
10
DEALER
But your dealer's staff can't make decisions for you; nor can they
assume responsibility for your lack of knowledge, experience, skill or
common sense.They can explain to you how something works, or what
part or accessory will meet your special needs, but they can't know your
questions or your needs unless you tell them.
If you have a problem with your bike or your riding, talk to your dealer.
Make sure that the dealer understands your problem or question, and
make sure that you really understand the answers.
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C
ANNONDALE-SPECIFIC
I
NFORMATION
I
MPORTANT
Like any sport, cycling is not without risk. Be sure to follow the safety
guidelines below each time you ride. Failure to follow these instructions
could cause an accident and possible serious injury or death.
A.
S
AFETY
Read this manual in its entirety, and familiarize yourself with your
bicycle and its controls before riding.
INFORMATION
WARNINGS:
Note that bicycle s are lightwe ight human powe re d ve hicle s . Unlike a
car, much like a motorcycle , the re is no re s traint s ys te m for your body,
no prote ctive s tructure around your body. Cras hworthine s s is not a
de s ign crite ria. A ride r s its on a bicycle and can be e as ily thrown off
for many re as ons including ove rly hard us e of the front brake s (s e e
s e ction 6.C.) or s triking an obs tacle .
!
Always do the pre -ride che cklis t (Se e back cove r).
We ar a he lme t at all time s whe n riding a bicycle .
Ride with traffic, ne ve r agains t it.
Ke e p your s pe e d unde r control, maintain a s te ady cours e , and avoid
s we rving. Don’t s tunt ride .
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Ne ve r ride double or carry package s that obs truct your vie w or inhibit
your control of the bicycle .
Avoid riding at night, or in incle me nt we athe r. If you mus t ride at night,
we ar re fle ctive clothing and e quip your bicycle with front and re ar
lights . Make s ure your bicycle is e quippe d with re fle ctors . If you ge t
caught in a s howe r, re me mbe r that braking dis tance s incre as e in we t
we athe r, while vis ibility and tire traction de cre as e . Che ck your s tate
laws . Lights are re quire d for riding at dus k, night, or dawn.
Eve ry Cannondale bicycle frame and the compone nts attache d to the
frame have a finite , limite d us e ful life . The le ngth of that life will vary
with the cons truction and mate rials us e d in the frame and compone nts ,
the mainte nance and care the frame and compone nts re ce ive ove r the ir
life and the type and amount of us e the frame and compone nts are
s ubje ct to. Us e in compe titive e ve nts , trick riding, ramp riding, jumping,
aggre s s ive riding, riding on s e ve re te rrain, riding in s e ve re climate s ,
riding with he avy loads , comme rcial activitie s and othe r type s of non-
s tandard us e can dramatically s horte n the life of the frame and compo-
ne nts . Any one or a combination of the s e conditions may re s ult in an
unpre dictable failure . ALL FRAMES AND COMPONENTS SHOULD BE
PERIODICALLY CHECKED BY AN AUTHORIZED CANNONDALE RETAILER
for indicators of s tre s s and/ or pote ntial failure , including cracks , de for-
mation, corros ion, paint pe e ling, de nts , and any othe r indicators of
pote ntial proble ms , inappropriate us e or abus e . The s e are important
!
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s afe ty che cks and ve ry important to he lp pre ve nt accide nts , bodily injury
to the ride r and s horte ne d product life . (s e e s e ction 7.A.4 and A)
Note that ge ne rally s pe aking, lightwe ight frame s and compone nts have
s horte r live s . For e xample , all as pe cts of us e be ing ide ntical, a light-
we ight CAAD4 frame will have a s horte r life than a he avie r CAAD1 frame .
In s e le cting lightwe ight frame s and compone nts you are making a trade -
off, favoring the highe r pe rformance that come s with light we ight ove r
longe vity. So, If you choos e lightwe ight, high pe rformance e quipme nt,
be s ure to fre que ntly ins pe ct it as de s cribe d above .
Riding a cracke d frame could le ad to comple te bicycle failure . Like othe r
high-pe rformance s tructure s , this frame s hould be ins pe cte d pe riodically
for cracks . Pay particular atte ntion to the unde rs ide of the downtube
whe re it inte rs e cts the he ad tube (Se e fig. A, le ft). Wipe the tube cle an
and care fully e xamine the s urface . Ins pe ct mountain bike s with particu-
lar care , s ince the y are routine ly s ubje cte d to de manding conditions . DO
NOT ride a bike with any crack, e ve n a s mall one . Se e your authorize d
re taile r or call 1-800-BIKE-USA. Make ins pe ctions for fatigue -re late d
cracks a part of your normal s e rvice s che dule .
Toptube
Headtube
Downtube
Inspect this area.
fig. A
Have all acce s s orie s mounte d by your Authorize d Cannondale Re taile r.
Poorly or imprope rly mounte d acce s s orie s can adve rs e ly affe ct the
pe rformance of your bicycle . Be s ure that any acce s s ory your or your
authorize d re taile r fits to your bike doe s not block or inte rfe re with
re quire d CPSC re fle ctors .
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Exe rcis e caution with chainrings and pointe d, aggre s s ive platform pe dals ,
as the y have s harp and pote ntially dange rous s urface s .
If you have features (such as suspension or brake systems) not covered by
this manual, you should have a supplement included with your manual. If you
suspect that supplements might be missing, contact your Authorized
Cannondale Retailer, or call us at one of the numbers listed on the back cover.
CAUTION: Cannondale urge s cons ume rs not to ins tall “Bar Ends ” on bicycle s .
Some handle bars are de s igne d to take the adde d s tre s s of bar e nds , othe rs
are not. Ve ry lightwe ight handle bars may be particularly poorly s uite d for
bar e nds . If you want bar e nds , cons ult your Authorize d Cannondale Re taile r
about s uitable choice s , re ad and follow ins tructions and warnings that
accompany the handle bars and bar e nds , and ins pe ct the handle bars and bar
e nds re gularly.
!
!
Be care ful whe n making tight turns . Be aware that many s mall frame s ize
bicycle s with 700c whe e ls , s uch as racing, touring and hybrid, may not
have cle arance be twe e n the toe clips and the front tire . Avoid s uch
contact, which could dis tract you, dis rupt your turn or caus e a fall.
(s e e s e ction E.)
WARNING: Downhill mountain biking can le ad to s e rious accide nts . We ar
appropriate s afe ty ge ar and be s ure your bike is in pe rfe ct condition.
Follow all ins tructions be low. EVEN WITH STATE-OF-THE-ART PROTECTIVE
SAFETY GEAR YOU COULD BE SERIOUSLY INJURED OR KILLED whe n doing
downhill riding.
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WHEN RIDING WITH CHILDREN
Cannondale urge s cons ume rs not to ins tall child carrie rs on bicycle s .
Only qualifie d and e xpe rie nce d me chanics s hould ins tall frame -
mounte d acce s s orie s on bicycle s .
Us e caution whe n riding with a child carrie r. Child carrie rs add we ight
to the re ar, and rais e the bicycle ’s ce nte r of gravity, making balance
and corne ring more difficult.
Cannondale e ncourage s the us e of traile rs for carrying childre n.
Be ve ry care ful whe n towing a bicycle traile r. Re me mbe r that braking
dis tance s incre as e , and the traile r will track ins ide the line of the
bicycle whe n making turns .
Childre n s hould ALWAYS we ar he lme ts whe n riding in a child carrie r
or be ing towe d in a bicycle traile r. Note that the us e of bicycle
he lme ts on childre n is re quire d by law in many are as .
Ke e p childre n away from bicycle s mounte d on s tationary traine rs ,
e ve n whe n the bicycle is not in us e . Spinning whe e ls attract
childre n’s atte ntion, and pre s e nt a s e rious ris k to young finge rs .
Childre n have als o be e n known to rotate cranks by hand on bicycle s
le ft unatte nde d on s tationary traine rs , putting the ms e lve s at ris k of
s e rious injury.
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M
OUNTAIN
If your bike has s us pe ns ion, the incre as e d s pe e d you may de ve lop als o
incre as e s your ris k. Whe n braking, the front of a s us pe nde d bike dips .
You could have a bad accide nt if your s kill is not up to handling this
s ys te m. Ge t to know how to handle your s us pe ns ion s ys te m we ll
be fore trying any downhill or ve ry fas t biking.
B.
B
IKE SAGE
U
To ride downhill at speed or in competition is to voluntarily assume a very
large risk. When riding downhill such as at a ski area, on trails or access
roads, or on dirt roads such as fire roads, you can reach speeds seen on
motorcycles, with similar hazards and risks. WEAR APPROPRIATE SAFETY
GEAR, including an approved full face helmet, full finger gloves, and body
armor. Have your bicycle and equipment carefully inspected by a qualified
mechanic and be sure it is in perfect condition. Consult with expert riders
and race officials on conditions and equipment advisable at the site where
you plan to ride downhill.
Likewise, suspension will increase the handling capabilities and comfort of
your bicycle. This enhanced capability may allow you to ride faster. But do
not confuse the enhanced capabilities of a suspension bike with your own
capabilities. Increasing your skill will take time and practice. Proceed care-
fully until you are sure you are competent to handle the full capabilities of
your bike.
89
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While the rugged appearance of mountain bikes might suggest that
they’re indestructible, they are not. Certainly, they are tough and sturdy.
But as with any machine, abuse will soon take a toll on its ability to per-
form. More specifically, be sure to avoid:
Jumping. Jumping a mountain bike is fun, but it puts incredible stress on
everything from your spokes to your pedals. Perhaps most vulnerable to
jumping-related damage is your front fork. Riders who insist on jumping
their bikes risk serious damage, to their bicycles as well as themselves.
Riding through water. The so-called “sealed” components (such as head-
sets, bottom brackets and hubs) are effective at keeping mud and grit out
of your bearings. Water, however, is a different story. Any mountain bike
that is exposed to large amounts of water will require a complete bearing
overhaul to prevent extensive – and expensive – damage.
Shifting gears under extreme pedaling pressure. Like jumping, shifting
under extreme pedaling pressure puts an incredible amount of stress on
components. While most components can withstand an occasional “power
shift,” continual power shifting will most assuredly damage some part of
your drivetrain. Whenever possible, ease up on your pedals when shifting.
Land access, responsible riding, and the IMBA code. Don’t take land
access for granted. Your actions on your next ride will influence which
trails will be open for bicycle use in the years to come. Minimizing
skidding, avoiding muddy areas, and being courteous to hikers and
90
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equestrians are simple things we can all do on every ride to keep the land
open to bicycles. And if you’re feeling ambitious, voluntary trail maintenance
and packing out others’ trash will benefit everyone.
The International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA) has established
these guidelines for good trail riding:
Ride on open trails only.
Leave no trace.
Control your bicycle.
Always yield the trail.
Never spook animals.
Plan ahead.
91
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PREVENTING CORROSION:
O
THER
MPORTANT
OTES
C.
Periodically clean your frame with soap and water. After cleaning and drying it is a good
idea to lightly coat the water bottle bosses with a water displacing lubricant such as
CODA Dry wax, Tri-Flow or WD40 to minimize corrosion from sweat and salt. This is
particularly important on bicycles used in coastal salt air environments and those
drenched in sweat on an indoor trainer.
I
N
DO NOT MODIFY YOUR FRAME:
Do not physically alter your frame in any way. Don’t sandblast, shotblast or glass bead your
frame. Don’t use any sandpaper coarser than 150 grit in preparing a frame for refinishing.
Don’t grind, wire brush or file your frame. Don’t weld, braze or let anyone touch your frame
with a torch. Don’t drill any holes in your frame. Don’t acid dip or etch your frame. Don’t
anodize or chrome plate your frame. Any of these procedures will seriously harm the
structural integrity and/or longevity of your frame, which could lead to serious accident and
injury. Any of the above procedures will void the warranty on your frame.
A WORD ON HYBRID BIKES (ALSO KNOWN AS CROSS BIKES):
Some may claim that hybrid bikes are “all-purpose bikes,” equally at home on road or
trail. This is not true. Hybrids work well on roads or bike paths that are relatively smooth
and hard packed, such as cinders, good dirt roads, and “rails-to-trails” paths. Hybrids
are not intended or designed for off-road use, such as trails, “single track,” with logs,
rocks, roots, or loose dirt. Hybrids are not mountain bikes.
CAR RACKS THAT USE BIKE FORK DROPOUTS FOR MOUNTING
Use care to be sure that both fork dropouts are engaged in the rack before clamping. If only
one dropout is engaged and the bike tips over, the leverage can exert great force that may
damage the dropout. If your bike tips over, have the dropouts examined by a retailer.
92
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PROPER USE OF BICYCLE REPAIR STANDS
When using clamp-style bicycle repair stands, be sure to clamp your Cannondale
bicycle by the seatpost. DO NOT CLAMP YOUR BICYCLE BY ANY OF THE FRAME
TUBES. The frame tubes on Cannondale bicycles are crafted from high-performance,
thin-walled tubing that can be damaged by clamp-style bicycle repair stands.
TORQUE FORCE SPECIFICATIONS
Handlebar binder bolt:
Stem binder bolt:
150-180lb in or 170-200kgf cm
175-260lb in or 200-300kgf cm
100-120lb in or 115-140kgf cm
150-180lb in or 170-200kgf cm
175-350lb in or 200-400kgf cm
130-210lb in or 150-250kgf cm
Stem-to-steerer binder:
Seat binder bolt:
Saddle clamp bolts:
Wheel axle nuts:
93
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P
RE-RIDE
Are your seatpost and stem securely fastened? Twist the handlebars firm-
ly from side to side while holding the front wheel between your knees.
The stem must not move in the steering tube. Similarly, the seatpost
must be secure in the seat tube.
Are you visible to motorists? If you are riding at dusk, dawn or at night,
you must make yourself visible to motorists through the use of front and
rear lights. Reflectors alone do not provide adequate visibility. Also, give
strong consideration to wearing reflective clothing.
D.
C
HECKLIST
Is it raining or wet? If so, be more cautious. Your braking distances will
increase, and your tires’ grip on the road will decrease. Also, remember
that motorists’ visibility decreases with inclement weather.
Are your tires properly inflated? Tires must inflated to the recommended
pressure in order to provide maximum performance.
94
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Are you wearing a helmet and other appropriate equipment and clothing,
such as protective glasses and gloves? Do not wear loose clothing that could
become entangled in the bicycle.
Are your wheels’ quick-release skewers properly fastened? Be sure to read the
section on proper operation of quick-release skewers (see section 6).
Are your front and rear brakes functioning properly? With cantilever brakes
(on mountain bikes, hybrids, tandems, touring), the straddle cable must be
attached. With caliper brakes (road bikes), the quick-release must be closed.
The brake pads must contact the rim firmly without the brake levers hitting
the handlebar.
If you have any re as on to s us pe ct that your bicycle is not functioning
prope rly, DO NOT RIDE IT. Ins te ad, have it ins pe cte d by your Authorize d
Cannondale Re taile r. To locate your ne are s t Authorize d Cannondale
Re taile r, call 1-800-BIKE-USA.
95
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T
OE
C
LIP
WARNING: Toe clip ove rlap could caus e you to los e control of your bike .
Che ck your bicycle for toe clip ove rlap. If you have any que s tions , che ck
with your re taile r be fore you ride .
E.
O
VERLAP
If you have toe clip overlap, the toe clip may be able to contact the front tire
(or front fender) when the pedal and toe clip are all the way forward and the
front wheel is turned to a position where the toe clip can contact the tire.
Toe clip ove rla p is a s itua tion whe re the toe clip ma y be a ble to con-
ta ct the front tire (or front fe nde r) whe n the pe da l a nd toe clip a re a ll
the wa y forwa rd a nd the front whe e l is turne d to a pos ition whe re the
toe clip ca n conta ct the tire .
!
Toe clip ove rlap is common on s mall frame s ize bicycle s . On all bicycle s ,
have the ins ide pe dal up be fore be ginning a turn. As you turn to the le ft,
the ins ide (le ft) pe dal s hould be pos itione d at twe lve o’clock. As you
turn to the right, the ins ide (right) pe dal s hould be pos itione d at twe lve
o’clock. Having the ins ide pe dal up will pre clude any toe clip-to-tire con-
tact and maximize corne ring ground cle arance .
If you ride with cliple s s pe dals , clip your riding s hoe s into the pe dals
and che ck for front tire cle arance .
96
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R
EADING
F.
The serial number on your Cannondale bicycle
consists of a series of numbers and letters engraved
into the underside of the bottom bracket. Contained
in the serial number are codes representing the date
of manufacture, frame style and size, color, and
one sequence of numbers which is unique to
your bicycle.
Y
OUR
S
ERIAL
fig. C
Late Model Serial
Number Location. When
referring to your serial
number, use the eight
digit number in one of
the two locations
indicated, in this
case, 18-037914.
NUMBER
Cable guide
location
Please take a few minutes to record your bicycle’s
serial number (fig. B) for your own records, and to
fill out and send in the warranty registration card
located in the front of this book. Late model bikes
will have the serial number printed adjacent to a bar
code label (fig. C) on the bottom bracket shell. Please
record that eight digit number. It is important that we
are able to contact you regarding your bicycle.
However, you should still keep your serial number
and original sales receipt on file in a safe place, in
case of theft. It’s your only proof of purchase to your
insurance company and the police, and it makes any
claim easier to process.
GJ
B1-030 18014
SER# 18-037914
149158
6FL5WM
OR
123456A
9DMNS1LG
fig. B
Serial Number Location. When
referring to your serial number,
use the top number, in this case,
GJ-B1-030-18014.
97
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C
ANNONDALE
The specific warranty covering your Cannondale bicycle is governed by the
country in which it was purchased, and applies only to bicycles purchased
from Authorized Cannondale Retailers.
G.
W
ARRANTIES
&
CANNONDALE LIMITED WARRANTY FOR BICYCLES PURCHASED
THROUGH AUTHORIZED RETAILERS IN THE U.S.A.
DISTRIBUTORS
FRAME: Cannondale frames (except downhill) are warranted by Cannondale
Corporation, 16 Trowbridge Drive, Bethel, CT 06801 against manufacturing
defects in materials and/or workmanship for the lifetime of the original owner.
Cannondale downhill frames are warranted against manufacturing defects in mate-
rials and/or workmanship for a period of one year from the date of original retail
purchase.
COMPONENTS: All other components, including HeadShok forks, suspen-
sion parts, frame fixtures and finishes (paint and decals) are warranted
against manufacturing defects in materials and/or workmanship for a period
of one year from the date of original retail purchase. Suspension forks (other
than those made by Cannondale) are not covered by this warranty, but are
separately covered by the stated warranty of their manufacturer.
98
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TERMS OF WARRANTY:
• This warranty is not meant to suggest or imply that the bicycle cannot
be broken or will last forever. It does mean that the bicycle is covered
subject to the terms of the warranty.
• This warranty only applies to the original owner of a Cannondale
bicycle and is not transferable to subsequent owners.
• For any warranty claim to be considered, the bicycle must be brought
in to an Authorized Cannondale Bicycle Retailer in assembled condition
and accompanied by the original, dated sales receipt for the bicycle. (Be
sure to keep your receipt in a safe place.)
• This warranty only applies to bicycles purchased in fully assembled and
adjusted condition from Authorized Cannondale Retailers or other outlets
specifically authorized by Cannondale to distribute Cannondale bicycles.
• This warranty is void if the bicycle is subjected to abuse, neglect,
improper repair, alterations, modifications, an accident or other abnormal,
excessive, or improper conditions.
• Damage resulting from normal wear and tear, including the results of
fatigue, is not covered. Fatigue damage is a symptom of the frame being
worn out through use. It is one kind of wear and tear. See section A.
• Damage resulting from improper assembly or maintenance, or from
installation of parts and accessories not compatible with the Cannondale
bicycle is not covered.
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• All labor charges for warranty service are the responsibility of the
bicycle’s owner.
• During the acceptable duration of this warranty, Cannondale will either
repair any defective frame, or, at our option, replace any defective frame
with the same or most nearly comparable model then available. THIS IS
THE EXCLUSIVE REMEDY UNDER THIS WARRANTY. ANY AND ALL
OTHER REMEDIES THAT MAY OTHERWISE BE APPLICABLE ARE
EXCLUDED, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, INCIDENTAL OR
CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES.
THIS IS THE ONLY WARRANTY MADE BY CANNONDALE ON ITS
FRAMES AND COMPONENTS. ANY WARRANTIES THAT MAY OTHER-
WISE BE IMPLIED BY LAW INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, ANY
IMPLIED WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A
PARTICULAR PURPOSE ARE LIMITED TO THE APPLICABLE DURATION
OF THIS LIMITED WARRANTY.
Please refer to the documents included with your bicycle for possible
further restrictions.
This Limited Warranty gives the consumer specific legal rights. The
consumer may also have other legal rights which vary from state to state.
Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or
consequential damages or limitations on how long implied warranties
last, so the above limitations or exclusions may not apply to you.
100
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CANNONDALE LIMITED WARRANTY FOR BICYCLES PURCHASED
THROUGH AUTHORIZED RETAILERS IN EUROPE
Please see page 97 of this manual for Cannondale’s warranty policy. If you have
further questions, please contact:
Cannondale Europe B.V., Pos tbus 5100, Hanze poort 27
7570 GC Olde nzaal, Ne the rlands , 011-31-541-573-580
AUTHORIZED EUROPEAN DISTRIBUTORS
◆ CROATIA: Spectral D.O.O., Gajdekova 20, 10000-Zagreb, tel: (385) 1 433 309,
fax: (385) 1 455 0981 ◆ CZECH REPUBLIC: Vokolek Import, Rezlerova 308, 10900 Prague
10, tel: (42) 2 692 3399 ◆ GREECE: Cannondale Hellas, 304 Thivon Street, Egaleo, Athens,
tel: (30) 5392716, (30) 2512779, fax: (30) 2533960 ◆ ESTONIA/LATVIA/LITHUANIA:
Hawaii Express Ltd., Regati 1 5KE-102, tel: 372-6398508, fax: 372-6398566
◆ HUNGARY: Mali Bicycle Technology, JPM k.f.t., Jegenyefasor 1-3, 1184 Budapest,
tel/fax: 36 1 420 7563 ◆ MALTA: Seafront Enterprises Ltd., 106 Islets Promenade, Buggiba,
tel: 356-573866, fax: 356-573992 ◆ POLAND: S.S.C. Poland, Traugutta Str. 81A, 50418
Wroclaw, tel: (48) 71 725 448, fax: (48) 71 343 1539 ◆ PORTUGAL: Bicigal, Rua S.
Gonçalo de Lagos, 6, r/c Esq., 2560 Torres Vedras, tel: (351) 61 311758, fax: 351 61
315637 ◆ SLOVENIA: Sport Trade 2000, Sport Trade 2000, Dunajska 217, 1000 Ljubljana,
tel/fax: (386) 611 686 012 ◆ TURKEY: Velespit, Bagdat Cad, Rustiye Sk. No., 81030
Kiziltoprak, Istanbul, tel: (90) 216 337 9660, fax: (90) 216 345 7750
Note: Authorized European Distributor list subject to change without notice.
101
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CANNONDALE LIMITED WARRANTY FOR BICYCLES PURCHASED
THROUGH AUTHORIZED INTERNATIONAL RETAILERS/ DISTRIBUTORS
Please see page 97 of this manual for Cannondale’s warranty policy. If you have
further questions, please contact the distributor where you purchased your bicycle:
AUTHORIZED INTERNATIONAL DISTRIBUTORS
◆ AUSTRALIA: Cannondale Australia, PO Box 445, Mona Vale, N.S.W. 2103, Australia, 612
9979 5851, cannondaleaustralia@cannondale.com ◆ BERMUDA: The New Winners Edge, 34
Church Street, Hamilton HM11, Bermuda, 441 295 6012 ◆ BOLIVIA: Visal Import & Export,
C.Ballivian/Potosi EDIF, Salvatiorra 1ER.PISO, CASILLA 561,SANTA CRUZ, 591 334 7145 ◆
BRAZIL: Anderson Bicicletas, Rua Alonso Calhamares 70, Tatuapé, Sao Paulo, Brasil, 55 11 247
20 99 ◆ CHILE: Inversiones Lerur Ltda., Avenida las Condes, 12270 #101, Santiago, Chile,
South America, 562 215 3470 ◆ COLOMBIA: Sport and Bike, CRA 46 #16 Sur 36, El Poblado,
Medellin, Antioquia, Colombia, 574 262 4211 ◆ COSTA RICA: Xcesso S.A., PO Box 407-2100
San Jose, Costa Rica, 506 290 3382 ◆ DOMINICAN REPUBLIC: Ramon H. Vicioso, Av. Bolivar
453, Apartado 97, Santo Domingo, Republica Dominicana, 809 535 2565 ◆ ECUADOR: B.H.
Ecuador CIA ltda., Caspar De Villaroel 665, Y 6 De Diciembre, 593 2 449729 ◆ GUAM: Hornet
Bicycles, PO Box 8294, Tamuning, Guam 96911, 671 848 9191 ◆ GUATEMALA: Bike Center,
18 Calle, 7-48, Zona 10, 01010, Guatemala City, Guatemala, 502 366 7708
102
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◆ SOUTH AFRICA: Cape Cycle Systems Ltd., PO Box 14684, Wetton 7790, Cape Town, tel:
27 21 761 3528, fax: 27 21 761 5914 ◆ TAHITI: Pacific Cycles, Rue Marechal Foch, BP
1535, Pepeete, Tahiti, tel/fax: 689-450-451 ◆ TAIWAN: Cash Crest, 1st Floor, #2., Lane 66,
Huan Nan Road, Ping Chen City, Tao Yuan Hsien, Taiwan, 886 349 15050 ◆ THAILAND:
Bikesports, 41 St. Louis 3, Soi Ging PLU, S. Sathorn Road., Sathorn, Bangkok 10120,
Thailand, tel: 662-676-2217, fax: 662-676-3846, email: biksport@asiaaccess.net.th ◆
VENEZUELA: Bici Bike, ED. Artelito, 2 DA. Avenida de Los Palos Grandes, Los Palos Grandes,
Caracas, 1041, 582 286 0285 ◆ TRINIDAD: Motorcycles Etc., 89 Eastern Main Road,
Barataria, Trinidad, W.I., tel: 868-675-2453, fax: 868-675-3816 ◆ VENEZUELA: Bike
Sports-Centro Commercial, Planta Baja Local 3A, Calle Garcilazo, Colinas de Bello Monte,
Venezuela, 582 751 9730, Bici Bike, Ed. Artelito, Local 5 (WNDCTR), Los Palos Grandes,
Caracas, Venezuela 1041, tel: 582-286-0285, fax: 582-283-7466
Note: Authorized International Distributor list subject to change without notice.
103
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Y
OUR
P
URCHASE ECORD
R
It is important to keep a record of your bicycle’s
serial number, and the date and place of purchase. We’ve
provided space below for you to keep this information.
(Be sure to save your sales receipt.)
Se rial Numbe r (s e e page 97 for location):
Late model bikes will have the serial number printed
adjacent to a bar code label on the bottom bracket
shell. Please write the eight digit number below:
SER #
Color:____________________ Size :__________
Date of Purchas e : _______________________
Name of Re taile r: _______________________
Re taile r Addre s s : _______________________
Purchas e Price : _________________________
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PRE-RIDE CHECKLIST
Are you visible to motorists? If you are riding at dusk, dawn
or at night, you must make yourself visible to motorists
through the use of front and rear lights. Reflectors alone do
not provide adequate visibility. Also, give strong consideration
to wearing reflective clothing.
Are you wearing a helmet and other appropriate equipment and
clothing, such as protective glasses and gloves? Do not wear
loose clothing that could become entangled in the bicycle.
Are your wheels’ quick-release skewers properly fastened? Be
sure to read the section on proper operation of quick-release
skewers (section 6).
Is it raining or wet? If so, be more cautious. Your braking
distances will increase, and your tires’ grip on the road will
decrease. Also, remember that motorists’ visibility decreases
with inclement weather.
Are your front and rear brakes functioning properly? With can-
tilever brakes (on mountain bikes, hybrids, tandems, touring), the
straddle cable must be attached. With caliper brakes (road bikes),
the quick-release must be closed. The brake pads must contact
the rim firmly without the brake levers hitting the handlebar.
Are your tires properly inflated? Tires must be inflated to
the recommended pressure in order to provide maximum
performance.
Are your seatpost and stem securely fastened? Twist the handle-
bars firmly from side to side while holding the front wheel
between your knees. The stem must not move in the steering
tube. Similarly, the seatpost must be secure in the seat tube.
If you have any reason to suspect that your bicycle is not
functioning properly, DO NOT RIDE IT. Instead, have it
inspected by your Authorized Cannondale Retailer.
This cover is printed on recycled paper.
Cannondale Customer Service: http://www.cannondale.com
USA: Call 1-800-BIKE USA, Fax: 814-623-6173.
Europe: Call 31-541-573580, Fax: 31-5415-14240.
Japan: Call 0722-99-9399, Fax: 0722-93-6166.
Australia: Call 61-2-9979-5851, Fax: 61-29979-5688.
In other locations, call your Authorized Cannondale Retailer.
©
1999 Cannondale Corporation, Bethel, CT 06801. Version 90501299.
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