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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be taken, including the following:
Read all instructions before using.
DANGER -
To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. The machine should never be left unattended while plugged in. Always unplug the machine from the electrical
outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
WARNING -
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:
1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or
near children.
2. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by
the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped
or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for
examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot
control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol “ ” position which represents off, then remove plug from
outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch the machine to the symbol “ ” position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as
threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.
15. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any
other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without supervision.
17. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this machine.
18. If the light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.
19. Hold the foot controller plug when rewinding into cord reel. Do not allow the plug to whip when rewinding.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This machine is intended for household use.
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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA
AND CYPRUS ONLY
If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.
IMPORTANT
If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut off and an
appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in the plug.
NOTE
The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is hazardous if engaged in
a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying
the
mark, rating as marked on plug.
Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
WARNING
DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE LETTER ‘E’, BY
THE EARTH SYMBOL
OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW.
The wires in this main lead are coloured in accordance with the following code:
Blue
Neutral
Live
Brown
As the colours of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the coloured markings
identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows.
The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘N’ or coloured
black or blue.
The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘L’ or coloured
red or brown.
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Federal Communications Commission (FCC)
Declaration of Conformity (For USA Only)
Responsible Party: Brother International Corporation
100 Somerset Corporate Boulevard
Bridgewater, NJ 08807-0911 USA
TEL : (908) 704-1700
declares that the product
Product Name:
Model Number:
Brother Sewing Machine
Innov-ís 4000D/NV4000D
complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: (1) this device may
not cause harmful interference, and (2) this device must accept any interference received, including interference
that may cause undesired operation.
This equipment has been tested and found to comply with the limits for a Class B digital device, pursuant to Part 15
of the FCC Rules. These limits are designed to provide reasonable protection against harmful interference in a
residential installation. This equipment generates, uses, and can radiate radio frequency energy and, if not installed
and used in accordance with the instructions, may cause harmful interference to radio communications. However,
there is no guarantee that interference will not occur in a particular installation. If this equipment does cause
harmful interference to radio or television reception, which can be determined by turning the equipment off and on,
the user is encouraged to try to correct the interference by one or more of the following measures:
• Reorient or relocate the receiving antenna
• Increase the separation between the equipment and receiver.
• Connect the equipment into an outlet on a circuit different from that to which the receiver is
connected.
• Consult the dealer or an experienced radio/TV technician for help.
• The enclosed interface cable should be used in order to ensure compliance with the limits for a Class
B digital device.
• Changes or modifications not expressly approved by Brother Industries, Ltd. could void the user's
authority to operate the equipment.
iii
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CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR
MACHINE
Your machine is the most advanced computerized household embroidery and sewing machine. To fully enjoy all
the features incorporated, we suggest that you study the manual.
PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE
For safe operation
1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the handwheel, thread take-up, needle, or
other moving parts.
2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when:
• Operation is completed
• Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts
• A power failure occurs during use
• Maintaining the machine
• Leaving the machine unattended.
3. Do not store anything on the foot controller.
4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.
For a longer service life
1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine
near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage
the case and machine, and should never be used.
3. Do not drop or hit the machine.
4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or
other parts to assure correct installation.
For repair or adjustment
In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the
operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local
authorized Brother dealer.
For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
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WHAT YOU CAN DO WITH THIS MACHINE
SPECIAL FEATURES
Check operations and view advice on the large LCD (liquid crystal display).
Prepare the bobbin thread with one touch.
The automatic thread tension makes trial sewing unnecessary.
Automatic threading makes threading quick and easy.
Getting Ready
Sewing Basics
To learn the operation of the principal
parts and the screens
To learn how to prepare for sewing and
basic sewing operations
Chapter
Page 7
1
Chapter
Page 37
2
Character/Decorative
Utility Stitches
Pre-programmed with more than
100 frequently used stitches
Stitches
The variety of stitches widen your creativity
Chapter
Page 47
3
Chapter
Page 97
4
Embroidery
Embroidery Edit
Maximum 30 cm x 18 cm (approx. 12 x 7
inches) for large embroidery designs
Designs can be combined, rotated or enlarged
Chapter
Page 125
5
Chapter
Page 175
6
My Custom Stitch
Appendix
Create original decorative stitches
Caring for your machine and dealing with
errors and malfunctions
Chapter
Page 199
7
Chapter
Page 209
8
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HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL
Chapter 1 and Chapter 2 explain your sewing machine’s basic operation procedures for someone who is
using the sewing machine for the first time. If you want to sew utility stitches or character/ decorative
stitches, read Chapter 1 and Chapter 2, then go on to Chapter 3 (Utility Stitches) or Chapter 4 (Character/
Decorative Stitches).
When you are ready to begin using the embroidery function after reading Chapter 1 and Chapter 2,
proceed to Chapter 5 (Embroidery). Once you understand the steps explained in Chapter 5, go on to
Chapter 6 (Embroidery Edit) for an explanation about the convenient embroidery edit functions.
In the screens that appear in the step-by-step directions the parts that are used for the operation are shown
in
. Compare the screen in the directions with the actual screen, and carry out the operation.
If, while using the machine, you experience something you do not understand, or there is a function you
would like to know more about, refer to the index at the back of the operation manual in conjunction
with the table of contents to find the section of the manual you should refer to.
Chapter 3
Chapter 1
Chapter 2
To sew utility stitches
To sew character or
decorative stitches
Chapter 4
Chapter 1
Chapter 2
Chapter 5
Chapter 6
To do machine
embroidery
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Contents
CONTENTS
Appliqué ..............................................................................73
Shelltuck Stitches .................................................................74
Scallop Stitches ....................................................................75
Top Stitching .........................................................................75
Smocking Stitches ................................................................76
Fagoting ...............................................................................76
Tape or Elastic Attaching ......................................................77
Heirloom ..............................................................................78
One-step Buttonholes ...........................................................80
Four-step Buttonholes............................................................84
Bar Tacks .............................................................................88
Button Sewing ......................................................................90
Eyelet ...................................................................................92
Multi-directional Sewing (Straight Stitch and Zigzag Stitch) ..93
Zipper Insertion ....................................................................94
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ..................i
WHAT YOU CAN DO WITH THIS MACHINE.....vi
HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL............................vii
NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR
FUNCTIONS .........................................................1
Machine ................................................................................. 1
Needle and Presser Foot Section ............................................. 2
Embroidery Unit ..................................................................... 2
Operation Buttons................................................................... 3
Included Accessories .............................................................. 3
Options................................................................................... 6
Chapter 1 Getting Ready
7
TURNING THE MACHINE ON/OFF .....................8
LCD SCREEN .........................................................9
Using the Machine Setting Mode Key .................................. 12
Using the Machine Operation Mode Key .............................. 17
Using the Pattern Explanation Key ........................................ 18
LOWER THREADING..........................................19
Winding the Bobbin.............................................................. 19
Setting the Bobbin................................................................. 22
Pulling Up the Bobbin Thread............................................... 23
UPPER THREADING ...........................................25
Threading Using the “Automatic Threading” Button.............. 25
Threading Manually.............................................................. 27
Using the Twin Needle Mode .............................................. 29
Using Threads that Unwind Quickly ..................................... 31
CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT.......................32
Removing the Presser Foot .................................................... 32
Attaching the Presser Foot..................................................... 32
Attaching the Walking Foot................................................... 33
Chapter 4 Character/Decorative Stitches 97
SELECTING STITCH PATTERNS.......................... 98
Selecting Decorative Stitch Patterns/7mm Decorative Stitch
Patterns/Satin Stitch Patterns/7mm Satin Stitch Patterns/Cross
Stitch/Utility Decorative Stitch Patterns ...............................100
Alphabet Characters ...........................................................100
SEWING STITCH PATTERNS ........................... 102
Sewing Attractive Finishes ..................................................102
Basic Sewing .......................................................................102
Making Adjustments ...........................................................103
EDITING STITCH PATTERNS ........................... 105
Changing the Size ...............................................................106
Changing the Length (for 7mm Satin Stitch Patterns Only) ..107
Creating a Vertical Mirror Image ........................................107
Creating a Horizontal Mirror Image ....................................107
Sewing a Pattern Continuously ...........................................107
Changing Thread Density
CHANGING THE NEEDLE...................................34
(for Satin Stitch Patterns Only) ............................................108
Checking the Image.............................................................108
Chapter 2 Sewing Basics
37
COMBINING STITCH PATTERNS .................... 110
Before Combining ...............................................................110
Combining Various Stitch Patterns ......................................110
Combining Large and Small Stitch Patterns .........................112
Combining Horizontal Mirror Image Stitch Patterns ............112
Combining Stitch Patterns of Different Length .....................113
Making Step Stitch Patterns
SEWING..............................................................38
Sewing a Stitch ..................................................................... 38
Sewing Reinforcement Stitches ............................................ 40
Sewing Curves ...................................................................... 40
Changing Sewing Direction ................................................. 40
Sewing Heavyweight Fabrics ............................................... 41
Sewing Lightweight Fabrics .................................................. 41
(for 7mm Satin Stitch Patterns Only) ...................................114
STITCH SETTINGS ..............................................42
Setting the Stitch Width......................................................... 42
Setting the Stitch Length ....................................................... 42
Setting the Thread Tension ................................................... 43
USING THE MEMORY FUNCTION .................. 116
Stitch Data Precautions .......................................................116
Saving Stitch Patterns in the Machine’s Memory .................118
Saving Stitch Patterns to USB Media
(Commercially Available) ....................................................120
Saving Stitch Patterns in the Computer ................................121
Retrieving Stitch Patterns from the Machine’s Memory ........122
Recalling from USB Media ..................................................123
Recalling from the Computer...............................................124
USEFUL FUNCTIONS..........................................44
Automatic Reinforcement Stitching ...................................... 44
Automatic Thread Cutting ..................................................... 45
Locking the Screen ............................................................... 46
Chapter 3 Utility Stitches
47
Chapter 5 Embroidery
125
SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES ..........................48
Selecting a Stitch................................................................... 48
Saving Your Stitch Settings ................................................... 50
Using the Sewing Type Selection Key .................................. 51
BEFORE EMBROIDERING................................. 126
Embroidery Step by Step .....................................................126
Attaching Embroidery Foot “W” .........................................127
Attaching the Embroidery Unit ...........................................128
SELECTING PATTERNS .................................... 130
Selecting Embroidery Patterns/Heirloom Patterns/Border
Patterns/Cross stitch Patterns/Floral alphabet Patterns ..........132
Selecting Alphabet Character Patterns .................................133
Selecting Frame Patterns .....................................................134
Selecting Patterns from Embroidery Cards ..........................135
Selecting Patterns from USB media/Computer .....................135
VIEWING THE SEWING SCREEN ..................... 136
PREPARING THE FABRIC ................................. 138
Attaching Iron-on Stabilizers (backing) to the Fabric ...........138
SEWING THE STITCHES .....................................53
Straight Stitches..................................................................... 53
Dart Seam............................................................................. 57
Gathering.............................................................................. 57
Flat Fell Seam ....................................................................... 58
Pintuck ................................................................................. 59
Zigzag Stitches ..................................................................... 60
Elastic Zigzag Stitches .......................................................... 62
Overcasting ......................................................................... 63
Quilting ............................................................................... 67
Blind Hem Stitches .............................................................. 72
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Contents
Hooping the Fabric in the Embroidery Frame .....................139
Embroidering Small Fabrics or Fabric Edges .......................141
ATTACHING THE EMBROIDERY FRAME..........143
CONFIRMING THE PATTERN POSITION ........144
Checking the Pattern Position .............................................144
Previewing the Completed Pattern ......................................145
SEWING AN EMBROIDERY PATTERN .............146
Sewing Attractive Finishes ..................................................146
Sewing Embroidery Patterns ................................................147
Sewing Embroidery Patterns Which Use Appliqué ..............148
Chapter 7 MY CUSTOM STITCH
199
DESIGNING A STITCH ....................................200
ENTERING STITCH DATA ...............................202
USING STORED CUSTOM STITCHES...............207
Storing Custom Stitches in Your List.................................... 207
Retrieving Stored Stitches.................................................... 208
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Chapter 8 Appendix
209
CARE AND MAINTENANCE .............................210
Cleaning the LCD Screen ................................................... 210
Cleaning the Machine Casing ............................................ 210
Cleaning the Race............................................................... 210
ADJUSTING THE SCREEN ................................212
Screen Visibility is Low....................................................... 212
Touch Panel is Malfunctioning ........................................... 212
ADJUSTMENTS DURING THE EMBROIDERY
PROCESS ..........................................................150
If the Bobbin Runs Out of Thread .......................................150
If the Thread Breaks During Sewing ....................................151
Restarting from the Beginning .............................................152
Resuming Embroidery After Turning Off the Power .............152
MAKING EMBROIDERY ADJUSTMENTS .........154
Adjusting Thread Tension ...................................................154
Using the Automatic Thread Cutting Function
(END COLOR TRIM) ...........................................................155
Using the Thread Trimming Function (JUMP STITCH TRIM) 155
Adjusting the Embroidery Speed .........................................156
Changing the Thread Color Display.....................................157
Changing the Embroidery Frame Display ............................158
REVISING THE PATTERN .................................159
Changing the Pattern Position .............................................159
Aligning the Pattern and the Needle....................................159
Changing the Size ...............................................................160
Rotating the Pattern.............................................................161
Creating a Horizontal Mirror Image ....................................162
Changing the Density (Alphabet Character
and Frame Patterns Only) ...................................................162
Changing the Colors of Alphabet Character Patterns ...........163
USING THE MEMORY FUNCTION ..................164
Embroidery Data Precautions ..............................................164
Saving Embroidery Patterns in the Machine’s Memory ........166
Saving Embroidery Patterns to USB Media (Commercially
Available)............................................................................168
Saving Embroidery Patterns in the Computer.......................169
Retrieving Patterns from the Machine’s Memory .................170
Recalling from USB Media ..................................................170
Recalling from the Computer...............................................171
EMBROIDERY APPLICATIONS .........................173
Using a Frame Pattern to Make an Appliqué (1) ..................173
Using a Frame Pattern to Make an Appliqué (2) ..................174
TROUBLESHOOTING ......................................214
ERROR MESSAGES ...........................................217
SPECIFICATIONS..............................................223
UPGRADING YOUR MACHINE’S SOFTWARE.224
Upgrade Procedure Using USB Media................................ 224
Chapter 6 Embroidery Edit
175
EXPLANATION OF FUNCTIONS .....................176
SELECTING PATTERNS TO EDIT ......................177
Selecting Embroidery Patterns/Heirloom Patterns/Border
Patterns/Cross stitch Patterns/Floral Alphabet Patterns/Frame
Patterns ...............................................................................178
Selecting Alphabet Character Patterns .................................178
EDITING PATTERNS .........................................181
Moving the Pattern .............................................................183
Rotating the Pattern ............................................................183
Changing the Size of the Pattern .........................................184
Deleting the Pattern ............................................................185
Changing the Configuration of Alphabet Character Patterns 185
Changing Alphabet Character Spacing ...............................185
Changing the Color of Each
Alphabet Character in a Pattern ..........................................186
Changing the Thread Color ................................................187
Creating a Custom Thread Table .........................................188
Choosing a Color from the Custom Thread Table ................189
Designing Repeated Patterns ...............................................190
After Editing ........................................................................194
COMBINING PATTERNS...................................195
Editing Combined Patterns ..................................................195
Sewing Combined Patterns..................................................197
USING THE MEMORY FUNCTION...................198
ix
Contents
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NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS
NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS
The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before
using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.
Machine
■ Front View
■ Right-side/Rear View
a
m
b
n
o
j
i
l
c
a
k
f
d
e
i
j
c
m
k
b
g
h
l
h
f
e
d
g
a Handle
a Top cover
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when transporting the
machine.
Open the top cover to thread the machine and wind the bobbin.
b Thread cutter
b Handwheel
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
c Thread take-up lever check window
Turn the handwheel toward you to raise and lower the needle.
The wheel should be turned toward the front of the machine.
Look through the window to check the upper thread passing
through in it.
c Embroidery card slot
Insert the embroidery cards (sold separately) into the
embroidery card slot.
d Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment
Store presser feet and bobbins in the accessory compartment
of the flat bed attachment. When sewing cylindrical pieces,
remove the flat bed attachment.
d USB port connector for media
In order to send patterns from/to USB media, plug the USB
media directly into the USB port connector.
e Operation buttons (6 buttons) and sewing speed
controller
e USB port connector for computer
In order to import/export patterns between a computer and the
machine, plug the USB cable into the USB port connector.
Use these buttons and the slide to operate the sewing machine.
f Knee lifter slot
f Touch pen holder
Insert the knee lifter into the slot.
g Knee lifter
Use the touch pen holder to hold the touch pen when not in use.
g Main power switch
Use the knee lifter to raise and lower the presser foot.
h LCD (liquid crystal display)
Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine ON and
OFF.
Settings for the selected stitch and error messages appear in
the LCD.
h Jack connector
Insert the power cord into the connector jack.
i Feed dog position switch
Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.
j Presser foot lever
i Thread guide plate
Pass the thread around the thread guide plate when threading
upper thread.
j Spool cap
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the
presser foot.
Use the spool cap to hold the spool in place.
k Spool pin
k Air vent
Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.
l Bobbin winder
The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to circulate. Do
not cover the air vent while the sewing machine is being used.
Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.
m Supplemental spool pin
l Foot controller with retractable cord
Depress the foot controller to control the speed of the machine.
m Foot controller jack
Use this spool pin to wind the bobbin thread, or to sew with the
twin needle.
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on the machine.
n Thread guide for bobbin winding
Pass the thread around this thread guide when winding the
bobbin thread.
o Pretension disk
Pass the thread around the pretension disk when winding the
bobbin thread.
1
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NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS
Needle and Presser Foot Section
Embroidery Unit
e
f
i
d
e
f
g
a
b
h
c
d
b
a
c
a Presser foot holder
a Carriage
The presser foot is attached onto the presser foot holder.
b Presser foot
The carriage moves the embroidery frame automatically when
embroidering.
b Release button (located under the embroidery unit)
Press the release button to remove the embroidery unit.
c Feed dog position switch
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as
sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the
selected stitch.
c Feed dogs
Use the feed dog position switch to raise and lower the feed
dogs while the embroidery unit is attached.
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
d Bobbin cover
d Embroidery unit connection
Open the bobbin cover to set the bobbin.
e Needle clamp screw
Insert the embroidery unit connection into the connection port
when attaching the embroidery unit.
e Embroidery frame holder
Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.
f Buttonhole lever
Insert the embroidery frame into the embroidery frame holder to
hold the frame in place.
The buttonhole lever is used with the one-step buttonhole foot
to create buttonholes.
f Frame-securing lever
Press the frame-securing lever down to secure the embroidery
frame.
g Needle bar thread guides
Pass the upper thread through the two needle bar thread
guides.
h Needle plate
The needle plate is marked with guides to help sew straight
seams.
CAUTION
• After the embroidery frame is set in the frame
holder, be sure the frame-securing lever is
correctly lowered.
i Presser foot holder screw
Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser foot in
place.
Note
• Be sure that the feed dog position switch on
the embroidery unit is located at right when
embroidering.
• You can also sew utility/decorative stitches
with the embroidery unit attached. Set the
feed dog position switch on the embroidery
unit to the appropriate setting.
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NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS
Operation Buttons
a “Start/Stop” button
Press this button and the machine will sew a few stitches at a
slow speed and then begin sewing at the speed set by the
sewing speed controller. Press the button again to stop the
machine. Hold the button in to sew at the machine’s slowest
speed. The button changes color according to the machine’s
operation mode.
b “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button
Use this button to sew reinforcement stitches at the beginning
and end of sewing. Press this button, and the machine sews 3
stitches in the same spot and stops automatically. For straight
and zigzag stitch patterns that take reverse stitches, the
machine will sew reverse stitches at low speed only while
holding down the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch“ button (the
stitches are sewn in the opposite direction).
c “Needle Position” button
Use this button when changing sewing direction or for detailed
sewing in small areas. Press this button to raise or lower the
needle position. Press the button twice to sew a single stitch.
d “Thread Cutter” button
Press this button after sewing to automatically trim the excess
thread.
e “Presser Foot Lifter” button
3
NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS
→ Included Accessories
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
16
24
32
40
48
13
17
25
33
41
49
14
18
26
34
42
15
20
28
36
44
19
27
35
43
75/11 2 needles
90/14 2 needles
90/14 2 needles: Ball point
needle (gold colored)
21
29
37
45
22
30
38
46
23
31
39
47
4
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NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS
Part Code
Memo
(For U.S.A. only)
No.
Part Name
U.S.A./
Others
Canada
Foot controller: Model S
This foot controller can be used with this
machine model Innov-ís4000D/NV4000D.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Buttonhole foot “A”
Embroidery foot “W”
Overcasting foot “G”
Monogramming foot “N”
Zipper foot “I”
X57789-151
XC8156-451
XC3098-051
X53840-351
X59370-051
XC3021-051
X56409-051
130489-001
Memo
Zigzag foot “J” (on machine)
Blind stitch foot “R”
Button fitting foot “M”
Walking foot
• Always use accessories recommended for
this machine.
• The screw of the presser foot holder is avail-
able through your authorized dealer (Part
code XA4813-051).
SA140 F033N:XC2214-102
SA177 F054:XC3879-002
10 Side cutter foot
11 Free-motion quilting foot
12 Straight stitch foot
13 Seam ripper
SA129 F005N:XC1948-002
SA167 F042N:XC1973-102
X54243-001
• Included accessories 35, 46, and 47 can be
stored in the machine’s hard case.
14 Bobbin × 10
SA156
SFB:XA5539-151
X58358-051
X59296-151
XD0705-051
XC1807-121
184944-001
X59476-051
135793-001
X55467-051
X55468-051
130013-154
X55260-153
130012-054
XC8619-051
X57045-051
XC1074-051
XA5523-050
15 Needle set
16 Twin needle
17 Ball point needle set
18 Scissors
19 Chalk pen
20 Cleaning brush
21 Eyelet punch
22 Screwdriver (large)
23 Screwdriver (small)
24 Spool cap (small)
25 Spool cap (medium) × 2
26 Spool cap (large)
27 Vertical spool pin
28 Spool felt
29 Disc-shaped screwdriver
30 Spool net
31 Embroidery frame set (small) SA437 EF73:XC8479-052
H 2 cm × W 6 cm
(H 1 inch × W 2-1/2 inches)
32 Embroidery frame set
(medium) H 10 cm × W 10 cm
(H 4 inches × W 4 inches)
SA438 FE74:XC8480-052
33 Embroidery frame set (large) SA439 EF75:XC8481-052
H 18 cm × W 13 cm
(H 7 inches × W 5 inches)
34 Embroidery frame set (extra
large) H 30 cm × W 18 cm
(H 12 inches × W 7 inches)
SA440 EF76:XC8482-052
35 Foot controller
XD0500-051 (EU area)
XC8028-051 (other area)
36 Embroidery needle plate
cover
XA9939-051
37 Grid sheet set
SA507
GS3:X81277-001
XA9940-051
XA6941-051
XC8897-051
XC8167-151
XC8362-051
XC8449-051
38 Touch pen (stylus)
39 Knee lifter
40 USB cable
41 Bobbin case (pink screw)
42 Straight stitch needle plate
43 Cord guide bobbin cover (with
single hole)
44 Embroidery bobbin thread
SA-EBT
SA519
EBT-CEN:
X81164-001
45 Stabilizer material
46 Operation manual
47 Quick reference guide
BM3:X81175-101
XC8170-151
XC8173-051
48 Embroidery unit carrying
case
SA529
D6EUC:
XC9862-052
49 Hard case
XC7750-051
5
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NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS
Part Code
Options
No.
Part Name
No. 40 Sports 3
U.S.A./
Canada
Others
3
SA340
SA341
SA342
SA343
SA344
SA345
SA346
SA347
SA348
SA349
SA350
SA352
SA353
SA354
SA355
SA356
SA357
SA358
SA360
SA361
SA362
SA363
SA364
SA365
SA366
SA367
SA368
XA6111-001
XA6586-001
XA6733-001
XA6769-001
XA6849-001
XA7770-001
XA7893-001
XA8206-001
XA8250-001
XA8348-001
XA8414-001
XA8511-001
XA8936-001
XA9129-001
XA9348-001
XC0025-001
XC0057-001
XC0861-001
XC1168-001
XC1304-001
XC1502-001
XC1646-001
XC2176-001
XC4220-001
XC4819-001
XC7048-001
XC7097-001
1
2
3
No. 41 Renaissance Alphabet
No. 42 Farm
No. 43 Victorian
No. 44 Lace2
No. 45 Fancy Work
No. 46 Australian Animals
No. 47 Butterfly
No. 48 Australian Flowers
No. 49 Folk Art
Part Code
No. 50 Fairy & Floral
No. 52 Bear Collections
No. 53 Scene
No.
Part Name
U.S.A./
Canada
Others
1
Embroidery bobbin thread
(White)
SA-EBT
X81164-001
No. 54 Tea Time
No. 55 Gardening
Embroidery bobbin thread
(Black)
SAEBT999
XC5520-001
No. 56 Asian
No. 57 Large Christmas
No. 58 New Quilt Traditions
No. 60 Summer Fun
No. 61 Blouse Embellishment
No. 62 Zodiac Signs
No. 63 Bunny
2
3
Stabilizer material
Water soluble stabilizer
Embroidery card
SA519
SA520
X81175-101
X81267-001
No. 1 Alphabet
SA298
SA299
SA300
SA303
SA304
SA305
SA306
SA307
SA311
SA312
SA313
SA314
SA316
SA319
SA320
SA321
SA322
SA323
SA325
SA327
SA328
SA329
SA330
SA331
SA332
SA333
SA335
SA336
SA337
SA338
SA339
X58317-001
X58321-001
X58362-001
X58497-001
X59322-001
X59357-001
X59511-001
X59567-001
XA0257-001
XA0275-001
XA0517-001
XA1223-001
XA1406-001
XA2452-001
XA2869-001
XA2873-001
XA3431-001
XA3430-001
XA3791-001
XA4289-001
XA4502-001
XA4664-001
XA4771-001
XA5037-001
XA5386-001
XA5567-001
XA5629-001
XA5659-001
XA5753-001
XA5781-001
XA5978-001
No. 2 Flower
No. 3 Dinosaur
No. 64 Grand Mom
No. 65 Red Work
No. 6 Moskowitz’s World
No. 7 Country Life
No. 8 Holiday
No. 66 Pop Mix
No. 67 Home Dec Collection
No. 9 Hobby Craft
No. 10 Monogram Emblem
No. 11 Frame
No. 68 Cross Stitch
Collection1
No. 69 Sport Shirt Motifs
SA369
SA370
XC7274-001
XC7550-001
No. 12 Transportation
No. 13 Sports Emblem
No. 14 Large Floral
No. 16 Cats & Dogs
No. 19 Marine
No. 70 Cross Stitch
Collection2
Memo
• You can use any of the brother embroidery
cards listed above with your machine.
No. 20 Petite Designs
No. 21 Needlework
No. 22 Large Quilt
No. 23 White on White
No. 25 Horse
• Please be aware that some specifications
may change without notice.
Note
No. 27 Birds
• Embroidery cards purchased in foreign
countries may not work with your machine.
No. 28 Christmas
No. 29 Lace
No. 30 Wildlife Animals
No. 31 Large Flower II
No. 32 Musical Instruments
No. 33 Trees
No. 35 Cats & Dogs II
No. 36 Fruits & Vegetables
No. 37 Appliqué Alphabet
No. 38 Angel
No. 39 Doll Face
6
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Chapter
1
Getting Ready
TURNING THE MACHINE ON/OFF......................................................8
LCD SCREEN..........................................................................................9
■ Key Functions..................................................................................................................10
Using the Machine Setting Mode Key......................................................................12
■ Adjusting Screen Brightness ............................................................................................15
■ Choosing the Display Language.......................................................................................16
Using the Machine Operation Mode Key ................................................................17
Using the Pattern Explanation Key ..........................................................................18
LOWER THREADING..........................................................................19
Winding the Bobbin ................................................................................................19
■ Using the Supplemental Spool Pin...................................................................................19
■ Using the Spool Pin .........................................................................................................21
Setting the Bobbin...................................................................................................22
Pulling Up the Bobbin Thread.................................................................................23
UPPER THREADING............................................................................25
Threading Using the “Automatic Threading” Button...............................................25
Threading Manually ................................................................................................27
Using the Twin Needle Mode..................................................................................29
Using Threads that Unwind Quickly .......................................................................31
■ Using the Spool Net ........................................................................................................31
■ Using the Vertical Spool Pin............................................................................................31
CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT .......................................................32
Removing the Presser Foot......................................................................................32
Attaching the Presser Foot ......................................................................................32
Attaching the Walking Foot.....................................................................................33
CHANGING THE NEEDLE...................................................................34
■ About the Needle ............................................................................................................36
■ Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations ..............................................................................36
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TURNING THE MACHINE ON/OFF
TURNING THE MACHINE ON/OFF
WARNING
• Use only regular household electricity as the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire,
electric shock, or damage to the machine.
• Turn the main power to OFF and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
When you are away from the machine
After using the machine
When the power fails during use
When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
During electrical storms
CAUTION
• Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire or
electric shock may result.
• Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
• When unplugging the machine, always turn the main power to OFF first. Always grasp the plug to remove
it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.
• Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled.
Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the
cord, or cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized
dealer for repairs before continuing use.
• Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise, a fire may
result.
• When leaving the machine unattended, either the main switch of the machine should be turned to OFF or
the plug must be removed from the socket-outlet.
• When servicing the machine or when removing covers, either the machine or the electrical set must be
unplugged.
• For U.S.A. only
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electrical
shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way.
If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified
electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
Insert the power cord into the power cord
jack connector, then insert the plug into a
wall outlet.
Turn the main power switch to “I” to turn
on the machine.
a
b
b
a
a
b
a OFF
b ON
a Main power switch
b Power cord
Turn the main power switch to “O” to turn
off the machine.
c
8
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LCD SCREEN
LCD SCREEN
When switching on the machine, the screen will display the name of the machine. Touch the screen to
display the utility stitch. Either “1-01 Straight stitch (Left)” or “1-03 Straight stitch (Middle)” is selected,
depending on the setting selected in the setting screen (See page 12).
Press a key with your finger to select the stitch pattern, to select a machine function, or to select an
operation indicated on the key.
1
Note
When the straight stitch needle plate is on the machine, the needle will automatically move to the middle
position.
Memo
• Only touch the screen with your finger or the included touch pen. Do not use a sharp pencil, screw-
driver, or other hard or sharp object. It is not necessary to press hard on the screen. Pressing too hard
or using a sharp object may damage the screen.
a
b
c
e
d
f
a Shows single or twin needle mode setting, and the needle stop position.
Single needle/down position
Twin needle/down position
Single needle/up position
Twin needle/up position
b Shows the presser foot code. Attach the presser foot indicated in this display before sewing.
c Shows the name and code number of the selected stitch.
d Shows a preview of the selected stitch.
e Shows the stitch patterns.
f Shows additional pages that can be displayed.
*
All key functions of the LCD are explained in the “key functions” table on the following page.
9
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LCD SCREEN
■ Key Functions
b
c
d
a
e
f
i
g
h
j
l
k
m
o
n
q
p
u
r
t
s
No.
Display
Key Name
Explanation
Page
a
Utility stitch key
Press this key to select a straight stitch, zigzag stitch, buttonhole, blind hem
stitch, or other stitches commonly used in garment construction.
48
b
c
d
e
f
g
Character/Decorative Press this key to select character or decorative stitch patterns.
stitch key
98
130
177
51
Embroidery key
Attach the embroidery unit and press this key to sew embroidery.
Embroidery edit key
Press this key to combine embroidery patterns. With the embroidery edit
functions, you can also create original embroidery patterns or frame patterns.
Sewing type selection Press this key when you need help selecting the appropriate stitch pattern for
key
the sewing application and when you need instructions on how to sew the stitch
pattern. This key is very helpful for beginners.
Pattern explanation
key
Press this key to see an explanation of the selected pattern.
18
Automatic
reinforcement stitch
key
Press this key to use the automatic reinforcement stitching (reverse stitching)
setting. If you select this setting before sewing, the machine will automatically
sew reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of sewing (depending on
the pattern, the machine may sew reverse stitches).
44
h
Automatic thread
cutting key
Press this key to set the automatic thread cutting function. Set the automatic
thread cutting function before sewing to have the machine automatically sew
reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of sewing (depending on the
pattern, the machine may sew reverse stitches) and trim the threads after
sewing.
45
10
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LCD SCREEN
No.
Display
Key Name
Explanation
Page
i
Stitch selection
display
48
Press the key of the pattern you want to sew. Use
change selection screens.
to
1
j
k
l
m
Screen lock key
Image key
Press this key to lock the screen.When the screen is locked, the various
settings, such as the stitch width and stitch length, are locked and cannot be
changed. Press this key again to unlock the settings.
46
49
49
29
Press this key to display an enlarged image of the selected stitch pattern.
Mirror image key
Press this key to create a mirror image of the selected stitch pattern. If the key
display is light gray, a mirror image of the selected stitch pattern cannot be
sewn.
Needle mode
Press this key to select twin needle sewing mode. The sewing mode changes
selection key (single/ between single needle mode and twin needle mode each time you press the
double)
key. If the key display is light gray, the selected stitch pattern cannot be sewn in
twin needle mode.
n
o
p
Reset key
Press this key to return the selected stitch pattern’s saved settings to the
original settings.
42-43
51
Retrieve key
Press this key to retrieve a saved pattern.
Manual memory key Change the stitch pattern settings (zigzag width and stitch length, thread
tension, automatic thread cutting or automatic reinforcement stitching, etc.),
then save them by pressing this key. Five sets of settings can be saved for a
single stitch pattern.
50
q
Stitch width and stitch Shows the zigzag width and stitch length settings of the currently selected stitch
42
length key
pattern. You can use the plus and minus keys to adjust the zigzag width and
stitch length settings.
r
s
Thread tension key
Shows the thread tension setting of the currently selected stitch pattern. The
thread tension is usually set automatically. You can use the plus and minus keys
to change the thread tension settings.
43
12
Machine setting mode Press this key to change the needle stop position, turn the buzzer ON/OFF,
key
adjust the pattern or screen, and change other machine settings.
t
u
Machine operation
mode key
Press this key to see explanations for upper threading, winding the bobbin,
changing the presser foot, and how to use the machine.
17
Presser foot/Needle
exchange key
Press this key before changing the needle, the presser foot, etc. This key locks
all key and button functions to prevent operation of the machine.
32-35
11
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LCD SCREEN
Using the Machine Setting Mode Key
Press
to change the default machine settings (needle stop position, embroidery speed, opening
display, etc.) Press
,
or
to display the different settings screens.
Memo
• This function will be available in future technology upgrades.
• Press
or
to display a different settings screen.
Sewing settings
a
b
c
d
e
a Select whether to use the sewing speed controller to determine the zigzag width (see page 70).
b Make adjustments to character or decorative stitch patterns (see page 103).
c Adjust the presser foot height. (Select the height of the presser foot when the presser foot is raised.)
d Adjust the presser foot pressure. (The higher the number, the higher the pressure will be. Set the pressure at 3 for
normal sewing.)
e Select whether “1-01 Straight stitch (Left)” or “1-03 Straight stitch (Middle)” is the utility stitch that is automatically
selected when the machine is turned on.
12
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LCD SCREEN
General settings
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
i
j
a Change the brightness of the LCD (see page 15).
b Select the needle stop position (the needle position when the machine is not operating) to be up or down.
c Turn the buzzer ON/OFF.
d Turn the Needle Area and Work Area Lights ON/OFF.
e Turn the opening screen display ON/OFF.
f Use when running an application.
g Change the display language (see page 16).
h Display the service count and the total number of embroidery stitches. The service count is a reminder to take your
machine in for regular servicing. (Contact your authorized dealer for details.)
i The “NO.” is the number for the embroidery and sewing machine.
j Display the program version.
Memo
The latest version of software is installed in your machine. Check with your local authorized Brother
dealer or at www.brother.com for notification of available updates (see page 224).
13
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LCD SCREEN
Embroidery settings
i
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a Select from among 10 embroidery frame displays (see page 158).
b Change the thread color display on the embroidery screen; thread number, color name or each time to embroider
(see page 156).
c When the thread number #123 is selected, select among six thread brands (see page 156).
d Adjust the maximum embroidery speed setting (see page 156).
e Adjust the thread tension for embroidering.
f Select the height of the embroidery foot “W” during embroidering (see page 138).
g Change the display units (mm/inch).
h Change the initial mode of the display (embroidery/embroidery edit).
i Customize the thread color numbers (see page 188).
14
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LCD SCREEN
■ Adjusting Screen Brightness
On the BRIGHTNESS OF LCD display, use
c
Note
and
to adjust the screen
• All or part of the screen may sometimes
become darker or lighter because of
changes in the air temperature or other
changes in the environment around the
screen. This is normal and is not a sign of
malfunction. Adjust the screen if it is difficult
to read.
brightness.
1
*
*
Press
Press
to make the screen darker.
to make the screen lighter.
• The screen may be dark immediately after
turning on the power. This is a function of
the LCD back light screen, and it is not a
sign of malfunction. The screen will return to
its normal level of brightness after approxi-
mately 10 minutes.
a
• If you are not directly in front of the machine
when you view the LCD, the colors may
appear to change or the screen may be diffi-
cult to see. This is a characteristic of the
LCD, and not a sign of damage or malfunc-
tion. For best results operate the screen
while sitting in front of the machine.
Press
.
a
b
→ The Sewing settings screen appears.
Press
.
a Brightness of LCD display
Press
.
d
→ The General settings screen appears.
Memo
• Press
or
to display a different
settings screen.
15
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LCD SCREEN
■ Choosing the Display Language
Press
.
a
→ The Sewing settings screen appears.
Press
.
b
→ The General settings screen appears.
Use
and
to choose the display
c
language.
*
Choose from the following languages: [ENGLISH],
[GERMAN], [FRENCH], [ITALIAN], [DUTCH],
[SPANISH], [DANISH], [FINNISH], [SWEDISH],
[PORTUGEUSE], [RUSSIAN], [NORWEGIAN] or
[JAPANESE].
a
a Display language
Press
.
d
16
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LCD SCREEN
Using the Machine Operation Mode Key
Press
to open the screen shown below. Six categories are displayed at the top of the screen.
Press a key to see more information about that category.
1
displays information about
displays information about
the operation buttons.
displays information about
the main parts of the machine and their
functions. This is the first screen displayed
threading the machine, changing presser feet,
etc.
when you press
.
displays information about
displays troubleshooting
displays information about
cleaning the machine, etc.
attaching the embroidery unit, preparing
fabric for embroidering, etc.
information.
17
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LCD SCREEN
Example: Displaying information about
Press
to return to the original
e
upper threading
screen.
Press
Press
.
a
b
Using the Pattern Explanation
Key
.
If you want to know more about the uses of a stitch
→ The lower half of the screen will change.
pattern, select the pattern and press
an explanation of the stitch selection.
to see
Press
(upper threading).
c
Example: Displaying information about
Press
Press
.
a
b
.
→ The screen shows instructions for threading the
machine.
Read the instructions.
d
*
*
Press
to see a video of the displayed
instructions.
Press
to view the next page.
→ The screen shows information about
.
Press
to return to the original
c
screen.
18
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LOWER THREADING
LOWER THREADING
Turn the main power to ON.
a
b
Winding the Bobbin
1
Align the groove in the bobbin with the
spring on the bobbin winder shaft, and set
the bobbin on the shaft.
Press
→
→
→
in that order to display a video example of
a
b
bobbin winding on the LCD (see page 18). Follow
the steps explained below to complete the
operation.
CAUTION
• The enclosed bobbin was designed specifically
for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other
models are used, the machine will not operate
correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156,
(XA5539-151)).
a Groove of the bobbin
b Spring on the shaft
Set the supplemental spool pin in the “up”
position.
c
Actual size
11.5 mm
(approx.
a
7/16 inch)
Other models
This model
■ Using the Supplemental Spool Pin
With this machine, you can wind the bobbin during
sewing. While using the main spool pin to sew
embroidery, you can conveniently wind the bobbin
using the supplemental spool pin.
a Supplemental spool pin
Place the spool of thread on the
d
a
supplemental spool pin, so that thread
unrolls from the front. Then push the spool
cap onto the spool pin as far as possible to
secure the thread spool.
5
3, 4
6
2
9
7, 8
o l
a
1
c
a Supplemental spool pin
b
a Spool pin
b Spool cap
c Thread spool
19
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LOWER THREADING
Pass the thread under the pin, and pass the
thread around the pretension disk making
sure that the thread is under the pretension
disk.
f
CAUTION
• If the thread spool and/or spool cap are set
incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool
pin and cause the needle to break.
• Use the spool cap (large, medium, or small)
that is closest in size to the thread spool. If a
spool cap smaller than the thread spool is
used, the thread may become caught in the slit
on the end of the spool and cause the needle
to break.
a
b
Memo
When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread,
use the small spool cap, and leave a small
space between the cap and the thread spool.
a Pin
b Pretension disk
Wind the thread clockwise around the
bobbin 4-5 times.
g
b
c
2
a
a Spool cap (small)
b Thread spool (cross-wound thread)
c Space
3
1
With your right hand, hold the thread near
the thread spool. With your left hand, hold
the end of the thread, and use both hands to
pass the thread through the thread guide.
e
Pass the end of the thread through the guide
slit in the bobbin winder seat, and pull the
thread to the right to cut the thread with
the cutter.
h
a
b
a
a Thread guide
a Guide slit
b Bobbin winder seat
CAUTION
• Be sure to follow the process described. If the
thread is not cut with the cutter, and the
bobbin is wound, when the thread runs low it
may tangle around the bobbin and cause the
needle to break.
20
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LOWER THREADING
Set the bobbin holder to the left, until it
clicks into place.
■ Using the Spool Pin
i
You can use the main spool pin to wind the bobbin
before sewing. You cannot use this spool pin to
wind the bobbin while sewing.
1
6
7
2
8
a
a Bobbin holder (switch)
5
3
4
Memo
When the bobbin holder is set to the left, it
works as a switch to make the bobbin wind
automatically.
→ The bobbin starts winding automatically and stops
rotating when it is done winding. The bobbin holder
will return to the original position.
o l
1
Cut the thread with the cutter and remove
the bobbin.
j
Turn the main power to ON.
a
b
Align the groove in the bobbin with the
spring on the bobbin winder shaft, and set
the bobbin on the shaft.
a
b
Memo
• When removing the bobbin, do not pull on
the bobbin winder seat. Doing so could
loosen or remove the bobbin winder seat,
and could result in damage to the machine.
a Groove of the bobbin
b Spring on the shaft
Pivot the spool pin so that it angles upward.
Set the thread spool on the spool pin so that
the thread unwinds from the front of the
spool.
c
CAUTION
• Setting the bobbin improperly may cause the
thread tension to loosen, breaking the needle
and possibly resulting in injury.
a
b
c
a
b
a Spool pin
b Spool cap
c Thread spool
21
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LOWER THREADING
Push the spool cap onto the spool pin as far
as possible, then return the spool pin to its
original position.
d
e
Setting the Bobbin
Holding the thread with your hands, slide
the thread into the grooves on the thread
guide plate.
Press
→
→
→
in that order to display a video example of
the operation on the LCD (see page 18). Follow
the steps explained below to complete the
operation.
CAUTION
• Use a bobbin thread that has been correctly
wound. Otherwise, the needle may break or
the thread tension will be incorrect.
a
a Thread guide plate
Pass the thread through the thread guide.
f
a
Press the “Presser Foot Lifter” button to
raise the presser foot.
a
Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.
b
a Thread guide
Pass the thread under the pin. Then pass the
thread around the pretension disk making
sure that the thread is under the pretension
disk.
g
a Bobbin cover
b Latch
→ The bobbin cover opens.
a
Remove the bobbin cover.
c
Hold the bobbin with your right hand and
hold the end of the thread with your left
d
b
hand.
a Thread guide
b Pin
c Pretension disk
Follow steps
through 21.
g
through
j
on page 20
h
22
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LOWER THREADING
Set the bobbin in the bobbin case so that
the thread unwinds to the left.
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down
on the right side to close the cover.
e
h
1
Hold the bobbin lightly with your right
hand, and then guide the thread with your
left hand.
f
Pulling Up the Bobbin Thread
There may be some sewing applications where
you want to pull up the bobbin thread; for
example, when making gathers, darts, or doing
free motion quilting or embroidery.
Memo
You can pull up the bobbin thread after thread-
ing the upper thread (see “UPPER THREAD-
ING” on page 25).
Guide the bobbin thread through the
groove, following the arrow in the
illustration.
a
Pass the thread through the guide, and then
pull the thread out towards the front.
g
*
*
Do not cut the thread with the cutter.
Do not replace the bobbin cover.
a
a Cutter
While holding the upper thread, press the
needle position button to lower the needle.
b
→ The cutter cuts the thread.
a
CAUTION
• Be sure to hold down the bobbin with your
finger and unwind the bobbin thread correctly.
Otherwise, the thread may break or the thread
tension will be incorrect.
a Needle position button
23
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LOWER THREADING
Press the “Needle Position” button to raise
the needle.
c
d
Gently pull the upper thread, and a loop of
the bobbin thread will come out of the hole
in the needle plate.
Pull up the bobbin thread, then pass it
under the presser foot and pull it about
100 mm (approx. 3-4 inches) toward the
back of the machine, making it even with
the upper thread.
e
a
b
a Upper thread
b Bobbin thread
Replace the bobbin cover.
f
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UPPER THREADING
UPPER THREADING
Turn the main power to ON.
a
b
Threading Using the “Automatic
Threading” Button
1
Press the “Needle Position” button to raise
the needle.
Press
→
→
→
in that order to display a video example of
the operation on the LCD (see page 18). Follow
the steps explained below to complete the
operation.
Note
CAUTION
• Be sure to thread the machine properly.
Improper threading can cause the thread to
tangle and break the needle, leading to injury.
If you try to thread the needle automatically
without raising the needle, the thread may not
thread correctly.
Pivot the spool pin so that it angles upward.
Set the thread spool on the spool pin so that
the thread unwinds from the front of the
spool.
• When using accessories not included with this
machine, attach the accessory to the machine
after threading the machine.
c
Memo
• The automatic threading function can be
used with sewing machine needles 75/11
through 100/16.
a
• Thread such as transparent nylon monofila-
ment thread and thread with a thickness of
130/20 or thicker cannot be used with the
automatic threading function.
b
c
• The automatic threading function cannot be
used with the wing needle or the twin nee-
dle.
a Spool pin
• If the automatic threading function cannot be
used, see “Threading Manually” on page 27.
b Spool cap
c Thread spool
Push the spool cap onto the spool pin as far
as possible, then return the spool pin to its
original position.
d
7
6
CAUTION
5
3, 4
8
• If the thread spool and/or spool cap are set
incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool
pin and cause the needle to break.
2
• Use the spool cap (large, medium, or small)
that is closest in size to the thread spool. If a
spool cap smaller than the thread spool is
used, the thread may become caught in the slit
on the end of the spool and cause the needle
to break.
1
25
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UPPER THREADING
Press the “Automatic Threading” button to
have the machine automatically thread the
needle.
h
Memo
When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread,
use the small spool cap, and leave a small
space between the cap and the thread spool.
b
c
a
a Spool cap (small)
b Thread spool (cross-wound thread)
c Space
Holding the thread with your hands, slide
the thread into the grooves on the thread
guide plate.
e
→ The upper threading is finished.
Memo
When the “Automatic Threading” button is
pressed, the presser foot will be automatically
lowered.
a
Note
In case the needle is not completely thread,
slowly pull the loop of the thread through from
the back of the needle.
a Thread guide plate
While holding the thread in your right
hand, pass the thread through the thread
guide in the direction indicated.
f
When finished pulling the thread through
the thread guide, cut the thread and leave
the thread in position.
g
a
a About 50mm (approx. 2 inches)
Memo
If the needle could not be threaded or the
thread was not passed through the needle bar
thread guides, perform the procedure again
starting from step
c
.
a
a Cutter
26
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UPPER THREADING
Turn the main power to ON.
a
b
Note
When the “Automatic Threading” button is
pressed, the presser foot will be automatically
lowered.
Turn the handwheel so that the line on the
machine is aligned with the line on the
handwheel.
If you are using an incorrect needle and thread
combination, the hook may sometimes get
caught in the needle. If this happens, remove
the hook from the needle as described below.
1
a
a Line on handwheel
Memo
If the line on the machine is not aligned with
the line on the handwheel, the sewing
machine cannot be threaded. Check that the
line on the handwheel is facing up as shown in
the illustration above.
CAUTION
• The needle thread carrier will automatically
thread the needle when the “Automatic
Threading” button is pressed. Be sure to keep
your hands and other items away from the
needle area, otherwise injuries may occur.
Press
.
c
d
→ The key appears as
.
Raise the presser foot lever.
Threading Manually
Automatic threading cannot be used when using
the wing needle, the twin needle, or special thread
with a thickness of 130/20 or thicker. In these
cases, thread the needle as described below.
10
8
Pivot the spool pin so that it angles upward.
Set the thread spool on the spool pin so that
the thread unwinds from the front of the
spool.
11
e
9
7
5, 6
3
4, 12
13
a
14
2
b
c
15
1
a Spool pin
b Spool cap
c Thread spool
27
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UPPER THREADING
Push the spool cap onto the spool pin as far
as possible, then return the spool pin to its
original position.
Pull the thread under the thread path guide.
f
i
a
CAUTION
• If the thread spool and/or spool cap are set
incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool
pin and cause the needle to break.
• Use the spool cap (large, medium, or small)
that is closest in size to the thread spool. If a
spool cap smaller than the thread spool is
used, the thread may become caught in the slit
on the end of the spool and cause the needle
to break.
a
Holding the thread with both hands, slide
the thread into the grooves on the thread
guide plate.
g
a Thread path guide
Pull back up the thread along the left side of
the thread path guide to the top left corner
of the threading path cover.
j
a
a
b
a Thread guide plate
a Top left corner
b Threading path cover
While holding the thread in your right
hand, use your left hand to pull the thread
toward the threading path cover, then pass
it along the thread path as shown in the
illustration.
Be sure to pass the thread along the right
side of the thread path guide.
h
Pull the thread back down to the needle bar
along the left side of the thread path guide.
Make sure the thread is hooked at the top corner
and positioned behind the transparent front cover.
k
*
a
a
b
b
a Thread take-up lever check window
b Transparent front cover
a
Memo
a Threading path cover
b Thread path guide
b
b
a Take-up lever
b Thread
Look through the thread take-up lever check
window and check that the thread is correctly
fed through the take-up lever, turning the
handwheel toward you.
28
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UPPER THREADING
Lower the presser foot lever.
l
Using the Twin Needle Mode
The twin needle can only be used for patterns that
show after being selected. Before you
1
select a stitch pattern, make sure the stitch can be
sewn in the twin needle mode (refer to the
“STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this
manual).
Holding the thread with both hands, pass
the thread through both the upper and
lower needle bar thread guides.
m
CAUTION
• Use only twin needles made for this machine
(part code X59296-151). Other needles could
break, resulting in damage.
• Be sure to set the twin needle mode when
using the twin needle. Using the twin needle
while the machine is in single needle mode
could cause the needle to break, resulting in
damage.
a
b
• Do not sew with bent needles. The needle
could break and cause injury.
• When using the twin needle, be sure to use
presser foot “J” only.
a Needle bar thread guide (upper)
b Needle bar thread guide (lower)
• When the twin needle is used, bunched
stitches may occur depending on the types of
fabric and thread that are used.
Pass the thread through the eye of the
needle from front to back.
n
If this occurs, use monogramming foot “N”.
Press
and install the twin needle
a
(see “CHANGING THE NEEDLE” on page 34).
Pass the thread through the presser foot,
and then pull out about 100-150 mm
(approx. 4-6 inches) of thread toward the
back of the machine.
o
Manually thread the machine.
b
*
Follow the steps for threading a single needle for the
first threading (see “Threading Manually” on page
27).
a
a 100-150 mm (approx. 4-6 inches)
Press
to unlock all keys and
p
buttons.
29
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UPPER THREADING
Pass the thread through the needle bar
thread guides on the needle bar, then
thread the needle on the left side.
Hold the thread from the spool with both
hands, and place the thread in the thread
guide.
c
f
*
Do not place the thread in the bobbin winding
thread guide.
a
a
a Needle bar thread guides
Note
• The “Automatic Threading” button cannot be
used. Manually thread the twin needle from
front to back. Using the “Automatic Threading”
button may result in damage to the machine.
a Thread guide
Pass the thread through the thread guide
plate, following the sequence as described
below.
g
Pull up the supplemental spool pin and set it
in the up position.
d
a
a Supplemental spool pin
Place the additional spool of thread on the
supplemental spool pin, so that the thread
unwinds from the front. Then push the
spool cap onto the spool pin as far as
possible to secure the thread spool.
e
Do not pass the thread in the needle bar
thread guides on the needle bar. Thread the
needle on the right side.
h
a
c
b
a Spool pin
b Spool cap
c Thread spool
Press
.
i
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UPPER THREADING
Select a stitch pattern. (Example:
)
Using Threads that Unwind
Quickly
j
*
Refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end
of this manual for proper stitch to use with presser
foot “J”.
■ Using the Spool Net
→ The Selected stitch is displayed.
1
If using transparent nylon thread, metallic thread, or
other strong thread, place the included spool net
over the spool before using it. When using these
threads, threading must be done manually.
If the spool net is too long, fold it once to match it to
the spool size before placing it over the spool.
Note
If the
key is light gray after selecting
the stitch, the selected stitch cannot be sewn
in the twin needle mode.
b
Press
to select the twin needle
k
a Spool net
b Thread spool
mode.
c Spool pin
a
a
d Spool cap
d c
Memo
• When threading the spool with the spool net
on, the thread may not come out enough.
Make sure that 5-6 cm (approx. 2 - 2-1/2
inches) of thread are pulled out.
• It may be necessary to adjust the thread ten-
sion when using the spool net.
■ Using the Vertical Spool Pin
Use the vertical spool pin when using an irregularly
shaped thread spool, and when sewing or
embroidering with metallic thread.
Insert the vertical spool pin into the end of
the bobbin winder shaft.
a
a Single needle/twin needle setting
appears.
d
→
a Bobbin winder shaft
b Vertical spool pin
c Spool felt
c
b
CAUTION
d Thread spool
Be sure to set the twin needle mode when using
the twin needle. Using the twin needle while the
machine is in single needle mode could cause the
needle to break, resulting in damage.
a
Install the spool felt and the thread spool in
that order, and then thread the upper
thread.
Start sewing.
b
l
Sample of Twin Needle Sewing
Memo
• When setting the thread spool, set it so that
the thread winds off from the front of the
spool.
• If using metallic thread, we recommend that
you use a 90/14 home sewing machine nee-
dle.
• This method keeps the thread from twisting
as it comes off the spool pin.
31
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CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT
CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT
CAUTION
• Always press
on the screen before changing the presser foot. If
is not pressed and the
“Start/Stop” button or another button is pressed, the machine will start and may cause injury.
• Always use the correct presser foot for the selected stitch pattern. If the wrong presser foot is used, the
needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, and may cause injury.
• Only use presser feet made for this machine. Using other presser feet may lead to accident or injury.
Removing the Presser Foot
Attaching the Presser Foot
Press the “Needle Position” button to raise
the needle.
Place the new presser foot under the
a
a
holder, aligning the foot pin with the notch
in the holder. Lower the presser foot lever
so that the presser foot pin snaps into the
notch in the holder.
a
b
Press
.
b
c
→ The key appears as
.
a Notch
b Pin
Raise the presser foot lever.
Press
to unlock all keys and
b
c
buttons.
Raise the presser foot lever.
Press the black button on the presser foot
holder and remove the presser foot.
d
a
b
a Black button
b Presser foot holder
32
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CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT
Lower the presser foot lever. Insert the
screw, and tighten the screw securely with
the screwdriver.
d
Attaching the Walking Foot
The walking foot holds the fabric between the
presser foot and the feed dogs to feed the fabric.
This enables you to have better fabric control
when sewing difficult fabrics (such as quilting or
velvet) or fabrics that slip easily (such as vinyl
cloth, leather, or synthetic leather).
1
Note
• When sewing with the walking foot, sew at
medium to low speeds.
Memo
• The walking foot can only be used with
straight or zigzag stitch patterns. Reverse
stitches cannot be sewn with the walking
foot. Only select straight or zigzag stitch pat-
terns with reinforcement stitches.
CAUTION
• Use the screwdriver to tighten the screw
securely. If the screw is loose, the needle may
strike the presser foot and cause injury.
• Be sure to turn the handwheel toward the
front of the machine to check that the needle
does not strike the presser foot. If the needle
strikes the presser foot, injury may result.
Follow the steps in “Removing the Presser
Foot” on the previous page.
a
Loosen the screw of the presser foot holder
to remove the presser foot holder.
b
Set the operation lever of the walking foot
so that the needle clamp screw is set
c
between the fork, and position the walking
foot on the presser foot bar.
b
c
a
d
a Operation lever
b Needle clamp screw
c Fork
d Presser foot bar
33
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CHANGING THE NEEDLE
CHANGING THE NEEDLE
CAUTION
• Always press
on the screen before changing the needle. If
is not pressed and the Start/
Stop button or another operation button is pressed accidentally, the machine will start and injury may
result.
• Use only sewing machine needles made for home use. Other needles may bend or break and may cause
injury.
• Never sew with a bent needle. A bent needle will easily break and may cause injury.
Use the screwdriver to turn the screw
toward the front of the machine and loosen
the screw, then remove the needle.
c
Memo
To check the needle correctly, place the flat
side of the needle on a flat surface. Check the
needle from the top and the sides. Throw
away any bent needles.
a
b
a Parallel space
b Level surface (bobbin cover, glass, etc.)
Note
Press the “Needle Position” button to raise
the needle.
• Do not apply pressure to the needle clamp
screw. Doing so may damage the needle or
machine.
a
Press
.
b
→ The key appears as
.
34
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CHANGING THE NEEDLE
With the flat side of the needle facing the
back, insert the new needle all the way to
the top of the needle stopper (viewing
window) in the needle clamp. Use a
screwdriver to securely tighten the needle
clamp screw.
d
1
a
b
c
a Needle stopper
b Hole for setting the needle
c Flat side of needle
CAUTION
• Be sure to push in the needle until it touches
the stopper, and securely tighten the needle
clamp screw with a screwdriver. If the needle
is not completely inserted or the needle clamp
screw is loose, the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.
Press
to unlock all keys and
e
buttons.
35
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CHANGING THE NEEDLE
■ About the Needle
The sewing machine needle is probably the most important part of the sewing machine. Choosing the proper
needle for your sewing project will result in a beautiful finish and fewer problems. Below are some things to keep
in mind about needles.
• The smaller the needle number, the finer the needle. As the numbers increase, the needles get thicker.
• Use fine needles with lightweight fabrics, and thicker needles with heavyweight fabrics.
• To avoid skipped stitches, use ball point needle (golden colored) 90/14 with stretch fabrics.
• To avoid skipped stitches, use ball point needle (golden colored) 90/14 when sewing character or decorative
stitches.
• Use needle 75/11 for embroidery. Use ball point needle 75/107 for embroidering patterns with short jump
stitches such as alphabet characters when the thread trimming function is turned on. Ball point needles
(golden colored) 90/14 are not recommended for embroidery, as they may bend or break, causing injury.
• It is recommended that a 90/14 needle should be used when embroidering on heavyweight fabrics or
stabilizing products (for example, denim, puffy foam, etc.). A 75/11 needle may bend or break, which could
result in injury.
• A home sewing machine needle 75/11 is inserted in the sewing machine.
■ Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations
The following table provides information concerning the appropriate thread and needle for various fabrics.
Please refer to this table when selecting a thread and needle for the fabric you wish to use.
Fabric
Thread
Size of needle
Type
Size
60 - 80
60 - 80
50
Medium weight fabric
Lightweight fabric
Heavyweight fabric
Broadcloth
Taffeta
Cotton
Synthetic mercerized
75/11 - 90/14
Flannel, Gabardine Silk or silk finished
Lawn, Batiste
Georgette
Challis, Satin
Denim
Cotton
60 - 80
60 - 80
50
65/9 - 75/11
Synthetic mercerized
Silk
Cotton
30 - 50
50
90/14 - 100/16
Corduroy
Tweed
Synthetic mercerized
Silk
50
Stretch fabric
Jersey
Thread for knits
50 - 60
Ball point needle
(golden colored)
75/11 - 90/14
Tricot
For top stitching
Synthetic mercerized
Silk
30
30
90/14 - 100/16
Memo
For transparent nylon thread, always use needle 90/14 - 100/16.
The same thread is usually used for the bobbin thread and upper threading.
CAUTION
• Be sure to follow the needle, thread, and fabric combinations listed in the table. Using an improper
combination, especially a heavyweight fabric (i.e., denim) with a small needle (i.e., 65/9 - 75/11), may
cause the needle to bend or break, and lead to injury. Also, the seam may be uneven, the fabric may
pucker, or the machine may skip stitches.
36
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Chapter
2
Sewing Basics
SEWING ..............................................................................................38
Sewing a Stitch........................................................................................................38
■ Using the Foot Controller................................................................................................39
Sewing Reinforcement Stitches ...............................................................................40
Sewing Curves.........................................................................................................40
Changing Sewing Direction.....................................................................................40
Sewing Heavyweight Fabrics...................................................................................41
■ If the Fabric does not Fit under the Presser Foot.............................................................41
■ If the Fabric does not Feed at the Beginning of Stitching.................................................41
Sewing Lightweight Fabrics.....................................................................................41
STITCH SETTINGS...............................................................................42
Setting the Stitch Width ..........................................................................................42
Setting the Stitch Length .........................................................................................42
Setting the Thread Tension......................................................................................43
■ Proper Thread Tension ....................................................................................................43
■ Upper Thread is Too Tight...............................................................................................43
■ Upper Thread is Too Loose..............................................................................................43
USEFUL FUNCTIONS..........................................................................44
Automatic Reinforcement Stitching ........................................................................44
Automatic Thread Cutting.......................................................................................45
■ Using the Knee Lifter.......................................................................................................46
Locking the Screen..................................................................................................46
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SEWING
SEWING
CAUTION
• To avoid injury, pay special attention to the needle while the machine is in operation. Keep your hands
away from moving parts while the machine is in operation.
• Do not stretch or pull the fabric during sewing. Doing so may lead to injury.
• Do not use bent or broken needles. Doing so may lead to injury.
• Take care that the needle does not strike basting pins or other objects during sewing. Otherwise, the
needle may break and cause injury.
• If stitches become bunched, lengthen the stitch length setting before continuing sewing. Otherwise, the
needle may break and cause injury.
Sewing a Stitch
Turn the main power to ON, and push the
“Needle Position” button to raise the
needle.
Set the fabric under the presser foot. Hold
the fabric and thread ends in your left hand,
and turn the handwheel to set the needle in
the sewing start position.
a
d
Press the key of the stitch you want to sew.
b
Memo
The black button on the left side of presser
foot “J” should be pressed only if the fabric
does not feed or when sewing thick seams
(see page 41). Normally, you can sew without
pressing the black button.
→ The symbol of the correct presser foot will be
displayed in the upper left corner of the LCD.
Install the presser foot (see “CHANGING
THE PRESSER FOOT” on page 32).
c
Lower the presser foot.
e
f
*
*
You do not have to pull up the bobbin thread.
CAUTION
Adjust the sewing speed with the speed
control slide.
• Always use the correct presser foot. If the
wrong presser foot is used, the needle may
strike the presser foot and bend or break,
possibly resulting in injury.
You can use this slide to adjust sewing speed during
sewing.
a
b
a Slow
b Fast
38
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SEWING
Press the “Start/Stop” button to start
sewing.
g
Note
• When cutting thread thicker than #30, nylon
thread, or other decorative threads, use the
thread cutter on the side of the machine.
*
Guide the fabric lightly by hand.
2
When the needle has stopped moving, raise
the presser foot and remove the fabric.
j
Press the “Start/Stop” button again to stop
sewing.
Memo
h
This machine is equipped with a bobbin thread
sensor that warns you when the bobbin thread
is almost empty. When the bobbin thread is
nearly empty, the machine automatically
stops. However, if the “Start/Stop” button is
pressed, a few stitches can be sewn. If the
warning displays, re-thread the machine
immediately.
■ Using the Foot Controller
You can also use the foot controller to start and stop
sewing.
Press the “Thread Cutter” button to trim
the threads.
i
CAUTION
Do not allow fabric pieces and dust to collect in
the foot controller. Doing so could cause a fire or
an electric shock.
Memo
• When the foot controller is being used, the
“Start/Stop” button has no effect on sewing.
• The foot controller cannot be used when
embroidering.
• The foot controller can be used for sewing
utility and decorative stitches when the
embroidery unit is attached.
→ The needle will return to the up position
automatically.
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack
on the machine.
CAUTION
a
• Do not press the “Thread Cutter” button after
the threads have been cut. Doing so could
tangle the thread or break the needle and
damage the machine.
• Do not press the “Thread Cutter” button when
there is no fabric set in the machine or during
machine operation. The thread may tangle,
possibly resulting in damage.
b
a
a Foot controller
b Foot controller jack
Note
Do not pull the retractable cord out beyond the
red mark on the cord.
39
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SEWING
Slowly depress the foot controller to start
b
Sewing Curves
sewing.
Sew slowly while keeping the seam parallel with
the fabric edge as you guide the fabric around the
curve.
Memo
The speed set using the sewing speed con-
troller is the foot controller’s maximum sewing
speed.
Release the foot controller to stop the
machine.
c
Changing Sewing Direction
Memo
(For U.S.A. only)
Foot controller: Model S
This foot controller can be used with model
Innov-ís 4000D/NV4000D
Stop the machine. Leave the needle in the fabric,
and press the “Presser Foot Lifter” button to raise
the presser foot. Using the needle as a pivot, turn
the fabric so that you can sew in the new
direction. Press the “Presser Foot Lifter” button to
lower the presser foot and start sewing.
Sewing Reinforcement Stitches
Reverse/reinforcement stitches are generally
necessary at the beginning and end of sewing. You
can use the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button
to sew reverse/reinforcement stitches manually
(see page 3).
If the automatic reinforcement stitch is selected on
the screen, reverse stitches (or reinforcement
stitches) will be sewn automatically at the
beginning of sewing when the “Start/Stop” button
is pressed. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement
Stitch” button to sew reverse stitches (or
reinforcement stitches) automatically at the end of
sewing (see page 44).
When edge stitching a short stitch length close to
the edge of the fabric, the presser foot may not
cover enough fabric for proper feeding. Before you
begin to sew, sew a basting thread at the corner
point. When you change direction at the corner,
start sewing as you pull the basting thread toward
the back.
a
a 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)
40
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SEWING
■ If the Fabric does not Feed at the
Sewing Heavyweight Fabrics
Beginning of Stitching
If the fabric does not feed when starting to sew or
when sewing thick seams, press the black button on
the left side of presser foot “J”.
The sewing machine can sew fabrics up to 6 mm
(approx. 1/4 inch) thick. If the thickness of a seam
causes sewing to occur at an angle, help guide the
fabric by hand and sew on the downward slope.
Raise the presser foot.
a
b
While keeping the black button on the left
side of presser foot “J” pressed in, press the
“Presser Foot Lifter” button to lower the
presser foot.
2
CAUTION
• Do not forcefully push fabrics more than
6 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) thick through the
sewing machine. This may cause the needle to
break and cause injury.
■ If the Fabric does not Fit under the
Release the button.
c
Presser Foot
If the presser foot is in the up position, and you are
sewing heavyweight or multiple layers of fabric
which do not fit easily under the presser foot, use
the presser foot lever to raise the presser foot to its
highest position. The fabric will now fit under the
presser foot.
→ The presser foot remains level, enabling the fabric to
be fed.
Memo
Once the trouble spot has been passed, the
foot will return to its normal position.
Sewing Lightweight Fabrics
Memo
You cannot use the presser foot lever after the
presser foot has been raised using the
“Presser Foot Lifter” button.
Place thin paper or tear away embroidery
stabilizer under thin fabrics to make sewing easier.
Gently tear off the paper or the stabilizer after
sewing.
a
a Thin paper
41
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STITCH SETTINGS
STITCH SETTINGS
When you select a stitch, your machine automatically selects the appropriate stitch width, stitch length,
and upper thread tension. However, if needed, you can change any of the individual settings.
Note
• Settings for some stitches cannot be changed (refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of
this manual).
• If you turn off the machine or select another stitch without saving stitch setting changes (see “Saving
Your Stitch Settings” on page 50), the stitch settings will return to their default settings.
Press
to widen the zigzag stitch pattern width.
Setting the Stitch Width
Follow the steps below when you want to change
the zigzag stitch pattern width.
→ The value in the display gets bigger.
Memo
Memo
• Press
to return the stitch width to the
• For an alternate method of changing the
stitch width using the speed controller, see
page 70.
original setting.
Setting the Stitch Length
Example:
Press
to narrow the zigzag stitch pattern width.
Follow the steps below when you want to change
the stitch pattern length.
→ The value in the display gets smaller.
Example:
Press
to shorten the stitch length.
→ The value in the display gets smaller.
42
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STITCH SETTINGS
■ Proper Thread Tension
Press
to lengthen the stitch length.
The upper and lower threads should cross near the
center of the fabric. If the thread tension is not
properly set, the seam may have a poor finish or the
fabric may pucker.
a
b
→ The value in the display gets bigger.
2
c
Memo
d
• Using the Image Key, you can check
changes made to the stitch.
a Wrong side
b Surface
• Press
original setting.
to return the stitch length to the
c Upper thread
d Bobbin thread
■ Upper Thread is Too Tight
CAUTION
If the bobbin thread can be seen on the surface of
If the stitches get bunched together, lengthen the
stitch length and continue sewing. Do not
continue sewing without lengthening the stitch
length. Otherwise, the needle may break and
cause injury.
the fabric, press
.
c
b
d
Setting the Thread Tension
a
You may need to change the thread tension,
depending on the fabric and thread being used.
Follow the steps below to make any necessary
changes.
a Bobbin thread
b Upper thread
c Surface
d Locks appear on surface of fabric
■ Upper Thread is Too Loose
If the upper thread can be seen on the wrong side of
the fabric, press
.
c
d
a
b
a Upper thread
b Bobbin thread
c Wrong side
d Locks appear on wrong side of fabric
Memo
• Press
to return the thread tension to
the original setting.
43
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USEFUL FUNCTIONS
USEFUL FUNCTIONS
Set the fabric in the start position and start
sewing.
c
Automatic Reinforcement
Stitching
After selecting a stitch pattern, turn on the
automatic reinforcement stitching function before
sewing, and the machine will automatically sew
reinforcement stitches (or reverse stitches,
depending on the stitch pattern) at the beginning
and end of sewing.
a
Select a stitch pattern.
a
a Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches)
Press
to set the automatic
→ The machine will automatically sew reverse stitches
(or reinforcement stitches) and then continue
sewing.
b
reinforcement stitching function.
Memo
If you press the “Start/Stop” button to pause
sewing, press it again to continue. The
machine will not sew reverse reinforcement
stitches again.
Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”
button.
d
a
→ The key will display as
.
a Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches)
→ The machine will sew reverse stitches (or
Memo
reinforcement stitches) and stop.
Some stitches, such as buttonholes and bar
tacks, require reinforcement stitches at the
beginning of sewing. If you select one of these
stitches, the machine will automatically turn on
Memo
To turn off the automatic reinforcement stitch-
ing function, press
as
again, so it appears
this function (the key appears as
the stitch is selected).
when
.
44
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USEFUL FUNCTIONS
Set the fabric in the start position and start
sewing.
c
Automatic Thread Cutting
After selecting a stitch pattern, turn on the
automatic thread cutting function before sewing,
and the machine will automatically sew
reinforcement stitches (or reverse stitches,
depending on the stitch pattern) at the beginning
and end of sewing, and trim the threads at the end
of sewing. This function is useful when sewing
buttonholes and bar tacks.
a
2
Select a stitch pattern.
a
a Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches)
→ The machine will automatically sew reverse stitches
(or reinforcement stitches) and then continue
sewing.
Press
to set the automatic thread
b
cutting function.
Memo
If you press the “Start/Stop” button to pause
sewing, press the same button again to con-
tinue. The beginning reverse/reinforcement
stitches will not be sewn again.
Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement
Stitching” button.
d
a
a Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches)
→ The key will display as
.
→ The machine will sew reverse stitches (or
reinforcement stitches), then trim the thread.
Memo
This function is set automatically when sewing
embroidery.
Memo
To turn off the automatic thread cutting func-
tion, press
again, so it appears as
.
45
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USEFUL FUNCTIONS
■ Using the Knee Lifter
Locking the Screen
Using the knee lifter, you can raise and lower the
presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free
to handle the fabric.
If the screen is locked before starting to sew, the
various settings such as the stitch width and stitch
length are locked and cannot be changed. This
prevents screen settings from accidentally being
changed or the machine from being stopped while
large pieces of fabric or projects are being sewn.
The screen can be locked when sewing utility
stitches and character decorative stitches.
Align the tabs on the knee lifter with the
notches in the jack, and then insert the knee
a
lifter as far as possible.
Select a stitch pattern.
a
If necessary, adjust any settings such as the
stitch width and stitch length.
b
Press
to lock the screen settings.
c
→ The key appears as
.
Note
If the knee lifter is not pushed into the mount-
ing slot as far as possible, it may come out
during use.
Sew your project.
d
e
When you are finished sewing, press
again to unlock the screen settings.
Use your knee to move the knee lifter to the
right in order to raise the presser foot.
Release the knee lifter to lower the presser
foot.
b
CAUTION
• If the screen is locked (
), unlock the
screen by pressing
. While the screen is
locked, no other key can be operated.
• The settings are unlocked when the machine is
turned off and on.
CAUTION
Be sure to keep your knee away from the knee
lifter during sewing. If the knee lifter is pushed
during machine operation, the needle may break
or the thread tension may loosen.
46
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Chapter
3
Utility Stitches
■
■
Sewing Stretch Fabrics..............................................................83
Odd Shaped Buttons/Buttons that do not Fit into
SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES......................48
the Button Holder Plate ............................................................83
Selecting a Stitch .............................................................. 48
Four-step Buttonholes........................................................84
Darning.....................................................................................86
Bar Tacks...........................................................................88
Bar Tacks on Thick Fabrics........................................................89
Button Sewing ...................................................................90
■
■
■
Stitch Selection Screens............................................................ 48
Using the Mirror Image Key..................................................... 49
Using the Image Key................................................................. 49
■
Saving Your Stitch Settings ............................................... 50
■
■
■
Saving Settings.......................................................................... 50
Retrieving Saved Settings.......................................................... 51
■
■
Attaching 4 Hole Buttons..........................................................91
Attaching a Shank to the Button ...............................................91
Using the Sewing Type Selection Key ............................... 51
SEWING THE STITCHES.................................53
Straight Stitches................................................................ 53
Eyelet.................................................................................92
Multi-directional Sewing (Straight Stitch and
Zigzag Stitch).....................................................................93
Zipper Insertion.................................................................94
■
■
■
Changing the Needle Position (Left or Middle Needle Position
Stitches Only) .......................................................................... 55
Using the Straight Stitch Needle Plate and the Straight
Stitch Foot................................................................................ 55
Basting ..................................................................................... 56
■
■
Centered Zipper........................................................................94
Inserting a Side Zipper..............................................................95
Dart Seam......................................................................... 57
Gathering.......................................................................... 57
Flat Fell Seam.................................................................... 58
Pintuck.............................................................................. 59
Zigzag Stitches.................................................................. 60
■
■
■
■
■
Overcasting (Using a Zigzag Stitch) ......................................... 60
Appliqué (Using a Zigzag Stitch).............................................. 60
Patchwork (for Crazy Quilt)..................................................... 61
Sewing Curves (Using a Zigzag Stitch) ..................................... 61
Cord Guide Bobbin Cover (Using a Zigzag Stitch) ................... 61
Elastic Zigzag Stitches....................................................... 62
■
■
Tape Attaching......................................................................... 62
Overcasting.............................................................................. 62
Overcasting ...................................................................... 63
■
■
■
■
Overcasting Using Presser Foot “G” ........................................ 63
Overcasting Using Presser Foot “J”.......................................... 64
Overcasting Using the Side Cutter ........................................... 65
When Sewing Straight Stitches While Using the Side Cutter.... 66
Quilting ............................................................................ 67
■
■
■
■
■
Piecing ..................................................................................... 68
Quilting.................................................................................... 68
Appliqué................................................................................... 69
Quilting with Satin Stitches...................................................... 70
Free-motion Quilting................................................................ 71
Blind Hem Stitches ........................................................... 72
■
■
If the Needle does not Catch the Fold...................................... 73
If the Needle Catches Too Much of the Fold............................ 73
Appliqué ........................................................................... 73
Sewing Sharp Curves................................................................ 74
■
Shelltuck Stitches.............................................................. 74
Scallop Stitches................................................................. 75
Top Stitching..................................................................... 75
Smocking Stitches............................................................. 76
Fagoting............................................................................ 76
Tape or Elastic Attaching .................................................. 77
Heirloom .......................................................................... 78
■
■
■
Hemstitching (1) (Daisy Stitch) ................................................ 78
Hemstitching (2) (Drawn Work)............................................... 78
Hemstitching (3)....................................................................... 79
One-step Buttonholes ....................................................... 80
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SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES
SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES
Selecting a Stitch
■ Stitch Selection Screens
There are 5 categories of Utility Stitches.
for that category.
indicates that there is more than one stitch selection screen
Straight/Overcasting/Quilting Stitches
Decorative Stitches
Heirloom Stitches
Buttonholes/Bar tacks
Multi-directional Sewing
48
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SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES
Turn the main power to ON.
a
→ Either “1-01 Straight stitch (Left)” or “1-03 Straight
stitch (Middle)” is selected, depending on the setting
3
49
SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES
Press
to change the thread color of
b
Saving Your Stitch Settings
the stitch on the screen.
The settings for the zigzag stitch width, stitch
length, thread tension, automatic thread cutting,
automatic reinforcement stitching, etc., are preset
in the machine for each stitch. However, if you
have specific settings that you wish to reuse later
for a stitch, you can change the settings so that
they can be saved for that stitch. Five sets of
settings can be saved for a single stitch.
*
Press
to display an enlarged image of the
stitch.
Memo
• The color changes every time you press
.
• The units of the stitch display area are in
mm.
■ Saving Settings
Select a stitch. (Example:
)
a
a
a Stitch screen
Press
to go back to the original
c
Specify your preferred settings.
b
screen.
50
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SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES
Press the numbered key of the settings to be
retrieved.
Press
.
c
c
*
Press
to return to the original screen
without retrieving settings.
a
3
→ The settings are saved and the original screen
automatically appears.
Memo
a Numbered keys
If you try to save settings when there are
already 5 sets of settings saved for a stitch, a
message will appear. Follow the directions in
the message to erase one set of currently
saved settings and save the new settings.
Press
.
d
Memo
You can delete the selected settings by press-
■ Retrieving Saved Settings
ing
.
Select a stitch.
a
→ The selected settings are retrieved, and the original
screen automatically appears.
Memo
When a stitch is selected, the last settings
retrieved are displayed. The last settings
retrieved are retained even if the machine was
turned off or a different stitch was selected.
Using the Sewing Type Selection
Key
You can also select utility stitches using
.
Press
.
b
Use this key when you are not sure which stitch to
use for your application, or to get advice about
sewing particular stitches. For example, if you
want to sew overcasting, but you do not know
which stitch to use or how to sew the stitch, you
can use this screen to get advice. We recommend
that beginners use this method to select stitches.
51
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SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES
Read the explanations and select the
appropriate stitch.
Example: Displaying information about
c
overcasting
*
Press
or
to scroll the page.
Press
.
a
→ The screen displays directions for sewing the
selected stitch.
→ The advice screen is displayed.
Follow the directions to sew the stitch.
d
Press
.
b
*
Press
to view the next page.
*
Press
to return to the original screen.
→ The upper part of the screen displays a selection of
overcasting stitches with explanations.
52
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SEWING THE STITCHES
SEWING THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches
Stitch width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
foot
Twin
needle
Stitch
Stitch name
Applications
Auto.
Manual
Auto.
Manual
Straight stitch (Left)
General sewing, gather, pintuck,
etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while
pressing “Reverse/
0.0
(0)
0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)
2.5
0.2 - 5.0
OK
( J )
(3/32) (1/64 - 3/16)
Reinforcement Stitch” button.
Straight stitch (Left)
General sewing, gather, pintuck,
etc. Reinforcement stitch is sewn 0.0
0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)
2.5
0.2 - 5.0
OK
( J )
while pressing “Reverse/
(0)
(3/32) (1/64 - 3/16)
3
Reinforcement Stitch” button.
Straight stitch
(Middle)
General sewing, gather, pintuck,
etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while
pressing “Reverse/
3.5
(1/8)
0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)
2.5
0.2 - 5.0
OK
( J )
(3/32) (1/64 - 3/16)
Reinforcement Stitch” button.
Straight stitch
(Middle)
General sewing, gather, pintuck,
etc. Reinforcement stitch is sewn 3.5
while pressing “Reverse/
0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)
2.5
0.2 - 5.0
OK
( J )
(1/8)
(3/32) (1/64 - 3/16)
Reinforcement Stitch” button.
Triple stretch stitch
Stem stitch
General sewing for
reinforcement and decorative
topstitching
0.0
(0)
0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)
2.5
1.5 - 4.0
OK
( J )
(3/32) (1/16 - 3/16)
Reinforced stitching, sewing and
decorative applications
1.0
(1/16)
1.0 - 3.0
(1/16 - 1/8)
2.5
1.0 - 4.0
OK
( J )
(3/32) (1/16 - 3/16)
Decorative stitch
Basting stitch
Decorative stitching, top
stitching
0.0
(0)
0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)
2.5
1.0 - 4.0
OK
( J )
(3/32) (1/16 - 3/16)
Basting
0.0
(0)
0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)
20.0
5.0 - 30.0
NO
(3/4) (3/16 - 1-3/16)
J
J
a
b
a
b
a Left needle position
a Reverse stitch
b Middle needle position
b Reinforcement stitch
Memo
If the selected stitch has a double mark “ ” at the top of the key display, you can sew reverse stitches
holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button.
If the selected stitch has a dot mark “ ” at the top of the key display, you can sew reinforcement stitches
holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button (see page 40).
53
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Select a stitch.
a
CAUTION
Be sure the needle does not strike a basting pin, or
any other objects, during sewing. The thread
could tangle or the needle could break, causing
injury.
When sewing is completed, hold the
“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to
sew 3-4 reverse stitches (or reinforcement
stitches) at the end of the seam.
f
Attach presser foot “J”.
b
c
Hold the thread tails and fabric with your
left hand, and turn the handwheel with
your right hand to insert the needle into the
fabric.
After sewing, press the “Thread Cutter”
button to trim the threads.
g
a
a Sewing start position
Lower the presser foot, and hold the
“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to
sew 3-4 stitches.
Memo
d
e
When the automatic thread cutting and auto-
matic reinforcement stitch keys on the screen
are selected, reverse stitches (or reinforce-
ment stitches) will be sewn automatically at
the beginning of sewing when the “Start/Stop”
button is pressed. Press the “Reverse/Rein-
forcement Stitch” button to sew reverse
stitches (or reinforcement stitches) and trim
the thread automatically at the end of sewing.
→ The machine sews reverse stitches (or reinforcement
stitches).
Press the “Start/Stop” button to sew
forward.
a
a Reverse stitches
→ The machine will begin sewing slowly.
54
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SEWING THE STITCHES
■ Changing the Needle Position (Left
or Middle Needle Position Stitches
Only)
■ Using the Straight Stitch Needle
Plate and the Straight Stitch Foot
The straight stitch needle plate and the straight stitch
foot can only be used for straight stitches (middle
needle position stitches). Use the straight stitch
needle plate and the straight stitch foot when sewing
thin fabrics or when sewing small pieces which tend
to sink into the hole of the regular needle plate
during sewing. The straight stitch foot is perfect to
reduce puckering on lightweight fabrics. The small
opening on the foot provides support for the fabric
as the needle travels through the fabric.
When you select left or middle needle position
stitches, you can use
and
in the stitch
width display to change the position of the needle.
Match the distance from the right edge of the presser
foot to the needle with the stitch width, then align
the edge of the presser foot with the edge of the
fabric during sewing for an attractive finish.
CAUTION
Always use the straight stitch foot in combination
with the straight stitch needle plate.
a
3
Press the “Presser Foot Lifter” button to
a
raise the presser foot and turn the main
power to OFF.
Remove the flat bed attachment or the
embroidery unit if either are attached.
b
a Stitch width
Example: Left/Middle needle position stitches
Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover,
and then slide it toward you.
c
J
J
J
J
a
a Needle plate cover
Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.
d
12.0 mm
(approx.
1/2 inch)
8.5 mm
(approx.
11/32
6.5 mm
(approx.
1/4 inch)
5.0 mm
(approx. 3/
16 inch)
inch)
Memo
For a standard 16 mm (approx. 5/8 inch) seam
allowance, set the width to 0 mm on the
screen. While sewing, align the edge of the
fabric with the 16mm (approx. 5/8 inch) mark
on the needle plate.
a
a Bobbin case
Use the screwdriver included with the
e
machine to unscrew and remove the regular
needle plate.
J
a
a 16 mm (approx. 5/8 inch)
55
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Set the straight stitch needle plate in place
and use the screwdriver to tighten the plate.
■ Basting
f
Select
and attach presser foot “J”.
a
Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”
button to sew reinforcement stitches, then
continue sewing.
b
Insert the bobbin case in its original
position, and then attach the needle plate
cover.
g
Note
Memo
Align the two screw holes on the needle plate
with the two holes on the machine and screws
in the needle plate.
If you do not want to use a reinforcement
stitch at the beginning; you should lift the
presser foot, rotate the handwheel, pull up the
bobbin thread and pull a length of top and
bobbin thread out from the rear of the
machine.
After reinstalling the needle plate cover,
select any of the straight stitches.
h
You can set the stitch length between 5 mm
(approx. 3/16 inch) and 30 mm (approx.
1-3/16 inches)
Memo
When using the straight stitch needle plate, all
straight stitches become middle needle posi-
tion stitches. You cannot change the needle
position using the width display.
a
a Between 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and 30 mm
(approx. 1-3/16 inches)
Sew while keeping the fabric straight.
c
CAUTION
• Selecting other stitches will cause an error
message to be displayed.
• Be sure to turn the handwheel slowly in your
direction before sewing and make sure that the
needle is not contacting the straight stitch foot
and straight stitch needle plate.
Attach the straight stitch foot.
Start sewing.
i
j
End the basting with reinforcement stitches.
d
*
After sewing, make sure to remove the straight stitch
needle plate and the straight stitch foot, and reinstall
the regular needle plate, the needle plate cover and
the presser foot “J”.
Memo
To prevent puckering on fine fabrics, use a
fine needle, size 75/11, and a short stitch
length. For heavier fabrics, use a heavier nee-
dle, size 90/14, and longer stitches.
56
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Iron the dart to one side so that it is flat.
e
Dart Seam
Select
and attach presser foot “J”.
a
b
Sew a reverse stitch at the beginning of the
dart and then sew from the wide end to the
other end without stretching the fabric.
*
If automatic reinforcement stitching is preset, a
reinforcement stitch will automatically be sewn at
the beginning of sewing.
Gathering
a
Use on waists of skirts, sleeves of shirts, etc.
3
Select a straight stitch and attach presser
foot “J”.
a
a Basting
Cut the thread at the end leaving 50 mm
(approx. 1-15/16 inches), and then tie both
ends together.
c
*
Do not sew a reverse stitch at the end.
Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx.
3/16 inch) and the thread tension to
b
approximately 2.0 (weaker tension).
*
If you press
after pressing
, the
Insert the ends of the thread into the dart
with a needle.
d
stitch length will be set automatically to 4.0 mm
(approx. 3/16 inch) and the thread tension will be
automatically set to 2.0.
Pull the bobbin and upper threads out by
50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches) (see page
23).
c
a
b
c
a Upper thread
b Bobbin thread
c About 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches)
57
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Sew two rows of straight stitches parallel to
d
Flat Fell Seam
the seam line, then trim excess thread
leaving 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches).
Use for reinforcing seams and finishing edges
neatly.
a
Select
and attach presser foot “J”.
b
a
b
Sew the finish line, then cut half of the seam
allowance from the side on which the flat
fell seam will lie.
c
*
When the automatic thread cutting and automatic
reinforcement stitching are preset, reinforcement
stitches will be sewn automatically at the beginning
of sewing. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”
button to sew a reinforcement stitch and trim the
thread automatically at the end of sewing.
a Seam line
b 10 to 15 mm (approx. 3/8 inch to 9/16 inch)
c About 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches)
Pull the bobbin threads to obtain the
desired amount of gather, then tie the
threads.
e
a
b
a About 12 mm (approx. 1/2 inch)
b Wrong side
Spread the fabric out along the finish line.
c
Smooth the gathers by ironing them.
f
b
a
a Finish line
b Wrong side
Sew on the seam line and remove the
basting stitch.
g
Lay both seam allowances on the side of the
shorter seam (cut seam) and iron them.
d
a
a Wrong side
58
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Fold the longer seam allowance around the
shorter one, and sew the edge of the fold.
e
Select
and attach presser foot “I”.
c
d
Sew a straight stitch along the fold.
*
When the automatic thread cutting and automatic
reinforcement stitching are preset, reinforcement
stitches will be sewn automatically at the beginning
of sewing. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”
button to sew a reinforcement stitch and trim the
thread automatically at the end of sewing.
a
a
a
a Wrong side
Finished flat fell seam
b
c
I
3
a
a
a Width for pintuck
b Wrong side
c Surface
a Surface
Iron the folds in the same direction.
e
Pintuck
Mark along the folds on the wrong side of
the fabric.
a
a
a Wrong side
Turn the fabric and iron the folded parts
only.
b
a
a Surface
59
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Zigzag Stitches
Zigzag stitches are useful for overcasting, appliqué, patchwork, and many other applications.
Select a stitch, and attach presser foot “J”.
If the stitch which you select has a double mark “ ” at the top of the key display, you can sew reverse
stitches by holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button.
If the stitch which you select has a dot mark “ ” at the top of the key display, you can sew reinforcement
stitches by holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button (see page 40).
Stitch width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
foot
Twin
needle
Stitch
Stitch name
Zigzag stitch
Applications
Auto.
Manual
Auto.
Manual
For overcasting, mending.
Reverse stitch is sewn while
pressing “Reverse/
3.5
0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)
1.4
0.0 - 4.0
OK
( J )
(1/8)
(1/16)
(0 - 3/16)
Reinforcement Stitch” button.
Zigzag stitch
For overcasting, mending.
Reinforcement stitch is sewn
while pressing “Reverse/
Reinforcement Stitch” button.
3.5
(1/8)
0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0 - 4.0
(0 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Zigzag stitch (right)
Zigzag stitch (left)
Start from right needle position,
zigzag sew at left.
3.5
(1/8)
2.5 - 5.0
1.4
0.3 - 4.0
OK
( J )
(3/32 - 3/16) (1/16) (1/64 - 3/16)
Start from left needle position,
zigzag sew at right.
3.5
(1/8)
2.5 - 5.0
1.4
0.3 - 4.0
OK
( J )
(3/32 - 3/16) (1/16) (1/64 - 3/16)
Select a stitch.
■ Overcasting (Using a Zigzag Stitch)
a
Sew the overcasting along the edge of the fabric
while positioning the right-hand side needle drop
point just outside the edge of the fabric.
a
a Needle drop position
■ Appliqué (Using a Zigzag Stitch)
Attach the appliqué using a temporary spray
adhesive or basting, then sew it.
Attach presser foot “J”.
b
*
Sew a zigzag stitch while positioning the right-hand
side needle drop point just outside the edge of the
fabric.
60
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Snap the cord guide bobbin cover into
place, making sure that the gimp thread can
be fed freely.
■ Patchwork (for Crazy Quilt)
c
Turn back the desired width of fabric and position it
over the lower fabric, then sew so that the stitch
bridges both pieces of fabric.
*
Make sure there are no restrictions when feeding the
thread.
■ Sewing Curves (Using a Zigzag
Stitch)
Set the zigzag width from 2.0-2.5 mm
(approx. 1/16 - 3/32 inch).
3
d
Shorten the stitch length setting to obtain a fine
stitch. Sew slowly, keeping the seams parallel with
the fabric edge as you guide the fabric around the
curve.
Attach presser foot “N”.
e
f
Position the fabric right side up on top of
the cord and place the cord to the rear of
the machine under the presser foot.
b
a
N
■ Cord Guide Bobbin Cover (Using a
Zigzag Stitch)
a Fabric (right side)
b Gimp thread
Remove the bobbin cover from the machine
(see page 22).
a
Lower the presser foot and start sewing to
make a decorative finish.
Thread the gimp thread through the hole in
the cord guide bobbin cover from top to
g
b
bottom. Position the thread in the notch at
the back of the cord guide bobbin cover.
a
b
a Notch
b Gimp thread
61
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Elastic Zigzag Stitches
Use elastic zigzag stitches for tape attaching, overcasting, darning, or a wide variety of other uses.
Stitch width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
foot
Twin
needle
Stitch
Stitch name
Applications
Auto.
Manual
Auto.
Manual
2 step elastic zigzag
Overcasting (medium weight
and stretch fabrics), tape and
elastic
5.0
(3/16)
1.5 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4)
1.0
0.2 - 4.0
OK
( J )
(1/16) (1/64 - 1/16)
2 step elastic zigzag
3 step elastic zigzag
Overcasting (medium weight
and stretch fabrics), tape and
elastic
5.0
(3/16)
1.5 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4)
1.0
0.2 - 4.0
OK
( J )
(1/16) (1/64 - 1/16)
Overcasting (medium,
heavyweight and stretch fabrics),
tape and elastic
5.0
(3/16)
1.5 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4)
1.0
0.2 - 4.0
OK
( J )
(1/16) (1/64 - 1/16)
Select a stitch.
■ Tape Attaching
a
Stretch the tape flat. While stretching the tape flat,
sew the tape to the fabric.
a
a Tape
■ Overcasting
Use this stitch to sew overcasting on the edge of
stretch fabrics. Sew the overcasting along the edge
of the fabric while positioning the right-hand side
needle drop point just outside the edge of the fabric.
Attach presser foot “J”.
b
62
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Overcasting
Use for the beginning and end of seams in skirts or trousers, and the beginning and end of all cuttings.
Use presser foot “G”, presser foot “J”, or the side cutter attachment depending on the kind of overcasting
stitch you select.
■ Overcasting Using Presser Foot “G”
Stitch width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
foot
Twin
needle
Stitch
Stitch name
Applications
Auto.
Manual
Auto.
Manual
Overcasting stitch
Reinforcing of light and medium
weight fabrics
3.5
(1/8)
2.5 - 5.0
2.0
1.0 - 4.0
NO
NO
NO
(3/32 - 3/16) (1/16) (1/16 - 3/16)
Overcasting stitch
Overcasting stitch
Reinforcing of heavyweight
fabric
5.0
2.5 - 5.0 2.5 1.0 - 4.0
(3/16) (3/32 - 3/16) (3/32) (1/16 - 3/16)
3
Reinforcing of medium,
heavyweight and easily frayable
fabrics or decorative stitching.
5.0
(3/16)
3.5 - 5.0
2.5
1.0 - 4.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
(3/32) (1/16 - 3/16)
Select a stitch and attach presser foot “G”.
Sew along the presser foot guide.
a
c
a Guide
CAUTION
• After the stitch width is adjusted, turn the
handwheel toward you by hand and check that
the needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the needle
may break and cause injury.
Lower the presser foot so that the presser
foot guide is set flush against the edge of the
fabric.
b
63
SEWING THE STITCHES
■ Overcasting Using Presser Foot “J”
Stitch width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
foot
Twin
needle
Stitch
Stitch name
Applications
Auto.
Manual
Auto.
Manual
Overcasting stitch
Reinforced seaming of stretch
fabric
5.0
(3/16)
0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 9/32)
2.5
0.5 - 4.0
OK
( J )
(3/32) (1/32 - 3/16)
Overcasting stitch
Overcasting stitch
Overcasting stitch
Reinforcing of medium stretch
fabric and heavyweight fabric,
decorative stitching
5.0
(3/16)
0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 9/32)
2.5
0.5 - 4.0
OK
( J )
(3/32) (1/32 - 3/16)
Reinforcement of stretch fabric
or decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)
4.0
1.0 - 4.0
OK
( J )
(3/16) (1/16 - 3/16)
Stretch knit seam
5.0
(3/16)
0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)
4.0
1.0 - 4.0
NO
(3/16) (1/16 - 3/16)
Single diamond
overcast
Reinforcement and seaming
stretch fabric
6.0
(15/
64)
1.0 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4)
3.0
1.0 - 4.0
OK
( J )
(1/8) (1/16 - 3/16)
Single diamond
overcast
Reinforcement of stretch fabric
6.0
(15/
64)
1.0 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4)
1.8
1.0 - 4.0
OK
( J )
(1/16) (1/16 - 3/16)
Select a stitch and attach presser foot “J”.
a
Sew with the needle dropping slightly off
the edge of the fabric.
b
a
a Needle drop position
64
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SEWING THE STITCHES
■ Overcasting Using the Side Cutter
By using the side cutter, you can do overcasting while cutting the fabric.
3
Follow the steps on page 32 to remove the
presser foot.
Position the side cutter so that the side
cutter pin is aligned with the notch in the
a
b
c
Position the fork on the side cutter’s
operating lever onto the needle clamp
screw.
a Needle clamp screw
b Operating lever
65
SEWING THE STITCHES
Select a stitch.
Start sewing.
d
h
→ A seam allowance is cut while the stitching is sewn.
Note
If the width has been adjusted, turn the hand-
wheel by hand to check that the needle does
not touch the side cutter. If the needle touches
the side cutter, it might cause the needle to
break.
Make a cut of approximately 20 mm
(approx. 3/4 inch) in the fabric.
e
a
■ When Sewing Straight Stitches While
Using the Side Cutter
The seam margin should be approximately 5 mm
(approx. 3/16 inch).
a 20 mm (approx. 3/4 inch)
a
Position the fabric so that the right side of
the cut is on top of the guide plate and the
left side of the cut is underneath the presser
foot.
f
a Seam margin
Memo
a
• The fabric will not be cut if the whole fabric is
simply spread out underneath the presser
foot guide plate. Set the fabric as explained
in step
f
from the previous section, and
b
then start sewing.
a Guide plate (lower knife)
b Presser foot
Thread the needle manually and pull out a
long section of the upper thread. Pass it
below the presser foot and pull it out in the
fabric feed direction.
g
• One layer of 13 oz. denim can be cut.
• Clean the side cutter after use to avoid hav-
ing dust and scraps of thread build up on it.
b
• Add a small amount of oil as required to the
cutting edge of the cutter.
a
a Presser foot
b Upper thread
66
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Quilting
You can make beautiful quilts quickly and easily with this machine. When making a quilt, you will find it
convenient to use the knee lifter and foot controller to free your hands for other tasks (see “Using the Foot
Controller” on page 39 and /or see “Using the Knee Lifter” on page 46).
If there is a “P” or “Q” at the bottom of the key display, the indicated stitch is intended for quilting.
Stitch width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch length
[mm (inch.)]
Type of
presser
foot
Twin
needle
possibility
Pattern
Name of pattern
Use
Auto.
Manual
Auto.
Manual
Piecing stitch (Right)
Piecework/patchwork
6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) right
seam allowance
5.5
(7/32)
0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)
2.0
0.2 - 5.0
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
(1/16) (1/64 - 3/16)
Piecing stitch
(Middle)
Piecework/patchwork
2.0
0.2 - 5.0
—
—
(1/16) (1/64 - 3/16)
3
Piecing stitch (Left)
Hand-look quilting
Piecework/patchwork
6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) left
seam allowance
1.5
(1/16)
0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)
2.0
0.2 - 5.0
(1/16) (1/64 - 3/16)
Quilting stitch made to look like
hand quilting stitch
0.0
(0)
0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)
2.5
1.0 - 4.0
(3/32) (1/16 - 3/16)
Quilting appliqué
zigzag stitch
Zigzag stitch for quilting and
sewing on appliqué quilt pieces
3.5
(1/8)
0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0 - 4.0
(0 - 3/16)
Quilting appliqué
stitch
Quilting stitch for invisible
appliqué or attaching binding
1.5
0.5 - 5.0
1.8
1.0 - 4.0
(1/16) (1/64 - 3/16) (1/16) (1/16 - 3/16)
Quilting stippling
Background quilting
7.0
(1/4)
1.0 - 7.0
1.6
1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 1/4) (1/16) (1/16 - 3/16)
67
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SEWING THE STITCHES
■ Piecing
■ Quilting
Sewing two pieces of fabric together is called
piecing. When cutting pieces for quilt blocks, make
sure the seam allowance is 6.5 mm (approx.
1/4 inch).
Sewing together the quilt top, batting, and backing is
called quilting. You can sew the quilt with the
walking foot to keep the quilt top, batting, and
backing from sliding. The walking foot has a set of
feed dogs that move together with the feed dogs in
the needle plate during sewing.
Select
“J”.
or
and attach presser foot
For straight line quilting, use the walking foot and
the straight stitch needle plate. Always select a
straight stitch (middle needle position) when using
the straight stitch needle plate.
a
b
Align the edge of the fabric with the edge of
the presser foot, and start sewing.
Select
,
or
.
*
To sew a 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) seam allowance
a
b
along the left edge of the presser foot with
Attach the walking foot (see page 33).
selected, the width should be set to 5.5 mm (approx.
7/32 inch).
a
J
Place one hand on each side of the presser
foot to hold the fabric secure while sewing.
a 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch)
c
*
To sew a 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) seam allowance
Memo
along the left edge of the presser foot with
• Sew at slow to medium speed.
selected, the width should be set to 1.5 mm (approx.
1/32 inch).
• Do not sew in reverse or use stitches that
require side ways or reverse feeding.
Always check to be sure that your quilting
surface is securely basted before beginning
to sew. Specialized machine quilt needles
and threads are also available for machine
quilting.
a
J
a 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch)
*
To change the needle position, use
the width display.
or
in
Memo
Using a straight stitch (middle needle position)
makes it easier to sew smoothly (see page
53).
68
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SEWING THE STITCHES
■ Appliqué
Select
and attach presser foot “J”.
d
e
Trace the pattern onto the appliqué fabric
a
and then cut around it, leaving a 3 to 5 mm
(approx. 1/8 to 3/16 inch) seam allowance.
Use the quilting appliqué stitch to attach
the appliqué. Sew around the edge while
dropping the needle as close to the edge as
possible.
a
a Seam allowance: 3 to 5 mm
(approx. 1/8 to 3/16 inch)
3
Place a piece of thick paper cut to the
finished size of the appliqué design onto the
fabric, and then fold over the seam margin
using an iron. Clip curves when necessary.
a
b
a Needle drop position
CAUTION
• Be careful that the needle does not strike a
basting pin during sewing. Striking a pin can
cause the needle to break, resulting in injury.
Turn the appliqué over, and attach the thick
paper with basting pins or a basting stitch.
c
You can use the appliqué technique to attach
appliqué designs like the three pictured below.
b
c
a
a Dresden plate
b Stained glass
c Sunbonnet sue
69
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SEWING THE STITCHES
■ Quilting with Satin Stitches
Press
to use the speed control slide
d
e
Use the foot controller to sew with satin stitches. If
you set the speed control slide to control the stitch
width, you can make subtle changes in the stitch
width during sewing.
to control the stitch width.
Set the width control to “ON”.
Attach the foot controller (see page 39).
a
Select
and attach presser foot “J”.
b
c
Press
in the length display to shorten
the stitch length.
Memo
You can use the speed control slide to adjust
the stitch width. Use the foot controller to
adjust the sewing speed.
Press
.
f
g
→ The display will return to the original screen.
Start sewing
Memo
The setting will vary according to the kind of
fabric and the thickness of the thread, but a
length of 0.3 to 0.5 mm (approx. 1/64 to 1/32
inch) is best for satin stitches.
*
You can adjust the stitch width during sewing by
moving the sewing speed controller. Slide the lever
to the left, and the stitch width becomes narrower.
Slide it to the right, the stitch width becomes wider.
The size of the width changes equally on both sides
of the middle needle position.
a
b
a narrower
b wider
Rough sketch (line)
70
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SEWING THE STITCHES
■ Free-motion Quilting
Lower the feed dog position switch, located
e
With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be
lowered (using the feed dog position switch) so that
the fabric can be moved freely in any direction.
The quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting.
We recommend attaching the foot controller and
sewing at a consistent speed.
at the rear of the base of the machine, to
.
a
Memo
In order to sew a balanced stitch, it may be
necessary to lower the upper thread tension.
b
c
3
Select
.
d
a
b
a Rear of machine
Remove the presser foot holder (see page
33).
b Feed dog position switch
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
c Up
Align the quilting foot with the lower-left
side of the presser bar.
d Down
c
Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut,
and then move the fabric at a regular pace
in order to sew uniform stitches roughly
2.0-2.5 mm (approx. 1/16 - 3/32 inch) in
length.
f
Memo
The pin on the quilting foot should be posi-
tioned over the needle clamp screw.
Hold the quilting foot in place with your
right hand, and then tighten the presser foot
holder screw using the screwdriver in your
left hand.
d
a
a
b
a Stitch
c
→ Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the beginning
and end of sewing.
a Pin on quilting foot
After sewing is finished, raise the feed dog
g
b Presser foot holder screw
c Needle clamp screw
position switch to
dogs.
to raise the feed
Memo
CAUTION
• Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the
screwdriver. Otherwise, the needle may touch
the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.
Normally, the feed dog position switch is in the
up position.
71
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Blind Hem Stitches
Select from these stitches to sew the hems or cuffs of dresses, blouses, pants, or skirts.
Stitch width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
foot
Twin
needle
Stitch
Stitch name
Applications
Auto.
Manual
Auto.
Manual
Blind hem stitch
Hemming woven fabrics
0.0
(0)
+3.0 - -3.0
(+1/8 - -1/8) (1/16) (1/16 - 1/8)
2.0
1.0 - 3.5
NO
NO
Blind hem stitch
stretch
Hemming stretch fabric
0.0
(0)
+3.0 - -3.0
(+1/8 - -1/8) (1/16) (1/16 - 1/8)
2.0
1.0 - 3.5
Select a stitch.
Attach blind hem stitch foot “R”, and lower
the presser foot. Position the fabric so the
folded edge touches the guide of the presser
foot.
a
d
a
b
a Guide
b Fold
Place the fabric wrong side up, and fold and
baste the fabric.
Sew the fabric, keeping the folded edge in
contact with the presser foot.
b
e
a
R
a
b
a 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)
b Basting stitches
a Needle position
Fold the fabric again.
c
a
a
c
b
c
a 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)
b Wrong side of fabric
c Basting stitches
72
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Remove the basting stitches and turn the
fabric over.
f
Appliqué
Use a temporary spray adhesive, fabric glue
or a basting stitch to attach the appliqué to
the fabric.
a
*
This will keep the fabric from moving during
sewing.
a
b
a
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
Memo
Blind hem stitches cannot be sewn if the left
needle drop point does not catch the fold. If
the needle catches too much of the fold, the
fabric cannot be unfolded and the seam
appearing on the right side of the fabric will be
very large, leaving an unattractive finish. If you
experience either of these cases, follow the
instructions below to solve the problem.
3
b
a Appliqué
b Fabric glue
Select
or
.
b
*
Adjust the stitch length and width to correspond to
the appliqué shape, size, and quality of material (see
page 42).
■ If the Needle does not Catch the
Fold
Adjust the width so that the needle slightly catches
Memo
the fold by pressing
in the width display.
For details on each stitch, refer to the
“STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this
manual.
Attach presser foot “J”. Check that the
needle drops slightly off the edge of the
appliqué, then start sewing.
c
■ If the Needle Catches Too Much of
the Fold
Adjust the width so that the needle slightly catches
a
the fold by pressing
in the width display.
a Appliqué material
a
a Needle drop position
73
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SEWING THE STITCHES
To make rows of shell tuck stitches, fold the
fabric in half along the bias.
■ Sewing Sharp Curves
c
Stop the machine with the needle in the fabric
outside the appliqué. Raise the presser foot and turn
the fabric a little bit at a time while sewing for an
attractive finish to the seam.
Memo
Use a thin fabric.
Memo
Attach presser foot “J”. Set the needle drop
point slightly off the edge of the fabric, and
start sewing.
Placing a lightweight tear away stabilizer
beneath the stitching area will improve the
stitch placement along the edge of the appli-
qué fabric.
d
Shelltuck Stitches
Shelltuck stitches give an attractive appearance to
shells along the curve of a collar. This stitch
pattern can be used for edging the neckline or
sleeves of dresses and blouses.
Select
.
a
Memo
For details on each stitch, refer to the
“STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this
manual.
a
Increase the upper thread tension for an
attractive scallop finish to the shelltuck
stitches (see page 43).
b
a Needle drop position
Memo
Unfold the fabric, and iron the tucks to one
side.
e
If the upper thread tension is too weak, the
shelltuck stitches will not scallop.
Memo
To make shell tucks at the edge of a collar or
neckline, follow the pattern’s instructions and
then use this stitch to make a decorative finish
on the collar or neckline.
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Scallop Stitches
Top Stitching
This wave-shaped running stitch is called the
scallop stitch. Use this stitch to decorate the edges
of blouse collars and handkerchiefs or use it as a
hem accent.
For a decorative look called “Crazy Quilting”, the
following stitches can be sewn on top of a pressed
seam allowance.
Select a straight stitch and attach presser
a
foot “J”.
Memo
A temporary spray adhesive may be neces-
sary for lightweight fabrics. Test sew
the fabric before sewing a project.
With the right sides facing each other, sew
two pieces of fabric together, and then
b
press open the seam allowance.
Select
.
a
c
Memo
b
3
For details on each stitch, refer to the
“STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this
manual.
d
d
a
Attach presser foot “N”. Sew scallop
stitches along the edge of the fabric.
b
a Straight stitch
*
Do not sew directly on the edge of the fabric.
b Seam margins
c 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch)
d Wrong side
Select a stitch for top stitching.
c
Place the fabric right side up in the
machine, and center the presser foot over
d
Trim along the seam, making sure not to cut
the stitches.
the seam when sewing.
c
a Right side of fabric
Memo
Use a seam sealant to secure the edges of the
scallop stitches.
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Sew the spaces between the straight seams.
g
Smocking Stitches
Use smocking stitches for decorative sewing on
clothes, etc.
J
Select a straight stitch and attach presser
foot “J”.
a
Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx.
3/16 inch) and loosen the upper thread
b
tension to approximately 2.0 (See pages 42
through 43).
Pull out the straight stitch threads.
h
Pull the bobbin and upper threads out by
50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches).
c
Sew the seams, leaving approximately
10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch) between the
d
seams, then trim excess thread, leaving
50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches).
a
Fagoting
When there is a space between two fabrics with
thread sewn over the space to join the fabrics
together, it is called fagoting. Use this stitch when
sewing blouses or children’s clothes.
a Approximately 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch)
Baste two pieces of fabric onto thin paper,
leaving a space of 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)
between the fabrics.
a
Pull the bobbin threads to obtain the
desired amount of gather, and then smooth
e
the gathers by ironing them.
a
b
c
a 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)
b Paper
c Basting stitches
Select
or
.
f
Select
or
.
b
Memo
For details on each stitch, refer to the
“STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this
manual.
Memo
For details on each stitch, refer to the
“STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this
manual.
76
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Attach presser foot “J”. Align the center of
the presser foot with the middle of the
space between the fabrics and begin
sewing.
Place the tape over the gather, and hold it
in place with basting pins.
c
d
a
a Tape
a
Select
or
.
e
a Basting stitches
Memo
Use a thick thread.
Memo
3
For details on each stitch, refer to the
“STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this
manual.
When sewing is finished, gently tear the
paper away.
d
Sew over the tape (or elastic).
f
Tape or Elastic Attaching
Select a straight stitch and attach presser
foot “J”.
a
Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx.
3/16 inch), and loosen the upper thread
tension to 2.0 (See pages 42 through 43).
b
Memo
CAUTION
Be sure that neither automatic reinforcement
Be sure the needle does not strike a basting pin, or
any other objects, during sewing. The thread
could tangle or the needle could break, causing
injury.
nor automatic thread cutting
selected.
is
Sew two rows of straight stitches on the
right side of the fabric, then pull the bobbin
thread to create the necessary gather.
c
Pull out the straight stitch threads.
g
Memo
Before sewing the straight stitch, rotate the
handwheel and pull up the bobbin thread.
Holding the top and bobbin thread, pull a
length of thread out from the rear of the
machine. (Be sure that the presser foot is
raised.)
77
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Start sewing.
c
Heirloom
Example: Illustration of finished product
■ Hemstitching (1) (Daisy Stitch)
Use for sewing tablecloths, decorative hems, and
decorative stitching on shirt fronts.
Memo
Use a light to medium weight homespun fabric
with a little stiffness.
Insert a type 130/705H, size 100/16 Wing
needle.
a
■ Hemstitching (2) (Drawn Work)
Pull out several threads from one area on a
piece of fabric to open the area.
CAUTION
a
• The “Automatic Threading” button cannot be
used. Thread the wing needle by hand, from
front to back. Using the “Automatic
Threading” button may result in damage to the
machine.
*
Pull out 5 or 6 threads to leave a 3 mm
(approx. 1/8 inch) area open.
• A more attractive finish can be obtained if you
use a “130/705H Wing” needle when sewing
these patterns. If using a wing needle and the
stitch width has been set manually, check that
the needle will not touch the presser foot by
carefully rotating the handwheel before
starting sewing.
Select a stitch and attach presser foot “N”.
Memo
b
Loosely woven fabrics work best for this.
*
Select any stitch between 3-01 and 3-25.
Select
.
b
Memo
For details on each stitch, refer to the
“STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this
manual.
Attach presser foot “N”. With the right side
of the fabric facing up, sew one edge of the
open area.
c
Memo
• For details on each stitch, refer to the
“STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of
this manual.
N
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SEWING THE STITCHES
■ Hemstitching (3)
Press
to create a mirror image of the
d
e
Pull out several threads from both sides of
the 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) area which
are not yet open.
stitch.
a
Sew the opposite side to keep the stitch
symmetrical.
*
Pull out four threads, leave five threads, and then
pull out four threads. The width of five threads is
approximately 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) or less.
b
N
c
b
a
3
a Approx. 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) or less
b Four threads (pull out)
c Five threads (leave)
Select
.
b
Memo
For details on each stitch, refer to the
“STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this
manual.
Sew the decorative stitch in the center of
the five threads created above.
c
N
Memo
A wing needle can be used for Hemstitching
(3).
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SEWING THE STITCHES
One-step Buttonholes
With one-step buttonholes, you can make buttonholes appropriate to the size of your button.
Stitch width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
foot
Twin
needle
Stitch
Stitch name
Applications
Auto.
Manual
Auto.
Manual
Narrow rounded
buttonhole
Buttonhole on light to medium
weight fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
0.4
0.2 - 1.0
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
(1/64) (1/64 - 1/16)
Wide round ended
buttonhole
Buttonholes with extra space for
larger buttons
5.5
(7/32)
3.5 - 5.5
(1/8 - 7/32)
0.4
0.2 - 1.0
(1/64) (1/64 - 1/16)
Tapered round
ended buttonhole
Reinforced waist tapered
buttonholes
5.0
(3/16)
3.0 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
0.4
0.2 - 1.0
(1/64) (1/64 - 1/16)
Round ended
buttonhole
Buttonholes with vertical bar
tack in heavyweight fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
0.4
0.2 - 1.0
(1/64) (1/64 - 1/16)
Round ended
buttonhole
Buttonholes with bar tack
5.0
(3/16)
3.0 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
0.4
0.2 - 1.0
(1/64) (1/64 - 1/16)
Round double ended
buttonhole
Buttonholes for fine, medium to
heavyweight fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
0.4
0.2 - 1.0
(1/64) (1/64 - 1/16)
Narrow squared
buttonhole
Buttonholes for light to medium
weight fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
0.4
0.2 - 1.0
(1/64) (1/64 - 1/16)
Wide squared
buttonhole
Buttonholes with extra space for
larger decorative buttons
5.5
(7/32)
3.5 - 5.5
(1/8 - 7/32)
0.4
0.2 - 1.0
(1/64) (1/64 - 1/16)
Squared buttonhole
Stretch buttonhole
Heirloom buttonhole
Bound buttonhole
Keyhole buttonhole
Heavy-duty buttonholes with
vertical bar tacks
5.0
(7/32)
3.0 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
0.4
0.2 - 1.0
(1/64) (1/64 - 1/16)
Buttonholes for stretch or woven
fabrics
6.0
(15/
64)
3.0 - 6.0
1.0
0.5 - 2.0
(1/8 - 15/64) (1/16) (1/32 - 1/16)
Buttonholes for heirloom and
stretch fabrics
6.0
(15/
64)
3.0 - 6.0
(1/8 - 15/64) (1/16)
1.5
1.0 - 3.0
(1/1 - 1/8)
The first step in making bound
buttonholes
5.0
(3/16)
0.0 - 6.0
(0 - 15/64)
2.0
0.2 - 4.0
(1/16) (1/64 - 3/16)
Buttonholes in heavyweight or
thick fabrics for larger flat
buttons
7.0
(1/4)
3.0 - 7.0
(1/8 - 1/4)
0.5
0.3 - 1.0
(1/32) (1/64 - 1/16)
Tapered keyhole
buttonhole
Buttonholes in medium to heavy
weight fabrics for larger flat
buttons
7.0
(1/4)
3.0 - 7.0
(1/8 - 1/4)
0.5
0.3 - 1.0
(1/32) (1/64 - 1/16)
Keyhole buttonhole
Buttonholes with vertical bar
tack for reinforcement in
heavyweight or thick fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0 - 7.0
(1/8 - 1/4)
0.5
0.3 - 1.0
(1/32) (1/64 - 1/16)
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SEWING THE STITCHES
One-step buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
a
a
a
3
a
a Reinforcement stitching
Select a buttonhole stitch, and attach
buttonhole foot “A”.
Pull out the button holder plate on the
presser foot, and insert the button that will
be put through the buttonhole. Then tighten
the button holder plate around the button.
a
b
c
Mark the position and length of the
buttonhole on the fabric.
a
a Button holder plate
Memo
Memo
The maximum buttonhole length is about
28 mm (approx. 1-1/16 inches) (diameter +
thickness of the button).
The size of the buttonhole is decided by the
button holder plate holding the button.
81
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Align the presser foot with the mark on the
Gently hold the end of the upper thread,
and then start sewing.
d
f
fabric, and lower the presser foot.
*
Feed the fabric carefully by hand while the
buttonhole is sewn.
a
A
b
a Mark on the fabric
b Marks on the presser foot
→ Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches, and then
stops.
Note
• Pass the thread underneath the presser
foot.
Memo
• Slide the outside frame of the buttonhole
foot backward as far as possible as shown in
the illustration, making sure that there is no
gap behind the part of the foot marked “A”. If
the buttonhole foot is not slid back as far as
possible, the buttonhole will not be sewn at
the correct size.
If automatic thread cutting is turned on before
you start sewing, both threads are automati-
cally cut after the reinforcement stitches are
sewn. If the fabric does not feed (for example,
because it is too thick), increase the stitch
length setting.
Insert a pin along the inside of one of the
bar tacks, and then insert the seam ripper
into the center of the buttonhole and cut
towards the pin.
g
Lower the buttonhole lever so that it is
positioned behind the metal bracket on the
buttonhole foot.
e
a
b
a
a Basting pin
b Seam ripper
CAUTION
a Buttonhole lever
When using the seam ripper to open the
buttonhole, do not put your hand or finger in the
path of the ripper. The ripper may slip and cause
injury.
a
a Metal bracket
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Once sewing is completed, gently pull the
gimp thread to remove any slack, and trim
off any excess.
c
Memo
For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch
to make a hole in the rounded end of the but-
tonhole. Then insert a pin along the inside of
one of the bar tacks, insert a seam ripper into
the hole made with the eyelet punch, and cut
towards the pin.
b
Memo
a
After using the seam ripper to cut open the
threads over the buttonhole, trim off the
threads.
3
a Eyelet punch
b Basting pin
■ Odd Shaped Buttons/Buttons that do
not Fit into the Button Holder Plate
■ Sewing Stretch Fabrics
Use the markings on the presser foot scale to set the
size of the buttonhole. One mark on the presser foot
scale equals 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch).
Add the button diameter and thickness together, and
then set the plate at the calculated value.
When sewing on stretch fabric with
or
,
sew the buttonhole stitches over a gimp thread.
Hook the gimp thread onto the back of
a
presser foot “A”. Insert the ends into the
grooves at the front of the presser foot, and
then temporarily tie them there.
b
a
c
d
a Presser foot scale
a
b Button holder plate
a Upper thread
c Completed measurement of diameter + thickness
d 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)
Lower the presser foot and start sewing.
b
Memo
For example, for a button with a diameter of
15 mm (approx. 9/16 inch) and a thickness of
10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch), the scale should be
set at 25 mm (approx. 1 inch).
a
b
a 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch)
b 15 mm (approx. 9/16 inch)
Memo
Set the width of the satin stitches to the width
of the gimp thread, and set the buttonhole
width to be 2-3 times the width of the gimp
thread.
83
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Four-step Buttonholes
You can sew 4-step buttonholes using the following 4 stitches together. You can sew any desired length
for the buttonhole when using 4-step buttonholes. 4-step buttonholes are a good option when attaching
oversize buttons.
Note
When changing the stitch settings for the left side of the buttonhole, make sure that all setting should be
changed to match.
Stitch width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
foot
Twin
needle
Stitch
Stitch name
Applications
Auto.
Manual
Auto.
Manual
4 step buttonhole 1
Left side of 4 step buttonhole
5.0
1.5 - 7.0
0.4
0.2 - 1.0
NO
NO
NO
NO
(7/32)
(1/16 - 1/4)
(1/64) (1/64 - 1/16)
4 step buttonhole 2
4 step buttonhole 3
4 step buttonhole 4
Bar tack of 4 step buttonhole
Right side of 4 step buttonhole
Bar tack of 4 step buttonhole
5.0
(7/32)
1.5 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4)
0.4
0.2 - 1.0
(1/64) (1/64 - 1/16)
5.0
(7/32)
1.5 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4)
0.4
0.2 - 1.0
(1/64) (1/64 - 1/16)
5.0
(7/32)
1.5 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4)
0.4
0.2 - 1.0
(1/64) (1/64 - 1/16)
Four-step buttonholes are sewn as shown below.
Mark the position and length of the
buttonhole on the fabric.
Attach monogramming foot “N”, and select
a
b
stitch
to sew the left side of the
buttonhole.
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Press the “Start/Stop” button to start
sewing.
c
d
Sew the desired length for the buttonhole
and press the “Start/Stop” button again.
3
Select stitch
to sew the bar tack and
e
f
press the “Start/Stop” button.
→ The machine will automatically stop after sewing
the bar tack.
Select stitch
to sew the right side of the
buttonhole, and press the “Start/Stop”
button to begin sewing.
Sew the right side of the buttonhole and
press the “Start/Stop” button again.
g
h
*
Sew the right side of the buttonhole the same length
as the left.
Select stitch
to sew the bar tack and
then press the “Start/Stop” button.
→ The machine will automatically sew off the bar tack
tie and stop when the bar tack is complete.
Raise the presser foot and remove the
fabric.
i
j
Refer to page 82 to open the buttonhole.
85
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SEWING THE STITCHES
■ Darning
Use darning stitches for mending and other applications.
Stitch width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
foot
Twin
needle
Stitch
Stitch name
Darning
Applications
Auto.
Manual
Auto.
Manual
Darning of medium weight fabric
7.0
2.5 - 7.0
2.0
0.4 - 2.5
NO
NO
(1/4)
(3/32 - 1/4)
(1/16) (1/64 - 1/16)
Darning
Darning of heavyweight fabric
7.0
2.5 - 7.0
2.0
0.4 - 2.5
(1/4)
(3/32 - 1/4)
(1/16) (1/64 - 1/16)
Darning is performed by sewing from the front of the presser foot to the back as shown below.
a
a
a Reinforcement stitches
Select a stitch, and attach buttonhole foot
“A”.
Check that the needle drops at the desired
position and lower the presser foot, making
sure the upper thread passes underneath
the buttonhole foot.
a
b
c
Set the scale to the desired length of the
darning.
a
b
d
c
Note
a Presser foot scale
• Pass the thread underneath the presser
foot.
• Set the presser foot so that there is no gap
behind the section marked with an “A” (the
shaded area in the illustration below). If
there is a gap, the size of the darning will not
be correct.
b Completed length measurement
c Width 7 mm (approx. 1/4 inch)
d 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)
Memo
The maximum length for darning is 28 mm
(approx. 1-1/16 inches).
86
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Lower the buttonhole lever so that it is
positioned behind the metal bracket on the
buttonhole foot.
d
a
a Buttonhole lever
3
a
a Metal bracket
Gently hold the end of the upper thread,
and then press the “Start/Stop” button to
start the machine.
e
→ Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches, and then
stops.
Memo
If automatic thread cutting is turned on before
you start sewing, both threads are automati-
cally cut after the reinforcement stitches are
sewn. If the fabric does not feed (for example,
because it is too thick), increase the stitch
length setting.
87
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Bar Tacks
Use bar tacks to reinforce areas that will be subject to strain, such as pocket corners.
Stitch width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
foot
Twin
needle
Stitch
Stitch name
Bar tack
Applications
Auto.
Manual
Auto.
Manual
Reinforcement at opening of
pocket, etc.
2.0
1.0 - 3.0
0.4
0.3 - 1.0
NO
(1/16)
(1/16 - 1/8)
(1/64) (1/64 - 1/16)
Set the fabric so that the pocket moves
towards you during sewing.
c
Select
.
a
Attach buttonhole foot “A” and set the
scale to the length of the bar tack you wish
to sew.
b
a
b
c
Note
• Pass the thread underneath the presser
foot.
• Slide the outside frame of the buttonhole
foot backward as far as possible as shown in
the illustration, making sure that there is no
gap behind the part of the foot marked “A”. If
the buttonhole foot is not slid back as far as
possible, the bar tack will not be sewn to the
correct size.
a Presser foot scale
b Completed length measurement
c 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)
Memo
Bar tacks can be between 5 mm (approx.
3/16 inch) and 28 mm (approx. 1-1/16 inches).
Bar tacks are usually between 5 mm (approx.
3/16 inch) and 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch).
Check the first needle drop point and lower
the presser foot.
d
a
a 2 mm (approx. 1/16 inch)
88
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SEWING THE STITCHES
Lower the buttonhole lever so that it is
positioned behind the metal bracket on the
buttonhole foot.
■ Bar Tacks on Thick Fabrics
e
Place a piece of folded fabric or cardboard beside
the fabric being sewn to level the buttonhole foot
and allow for easier feeding.
a
b
a Presser foot
b Thick paper
3
Memo
If automatic thread cutting is turned on before
you start sewing, both threads are automati-
cally cut after the reinforcement stitches are
sewn. If the fabric does not feed (for example,
because it is too thick), increase the stitch
length setting.
a
a Metal bracket
Gently hold the end of the upper thread and
begin sewing.
f
→ When sewing is completed, the machine will sew
reinforcement stitches and stop automatically.
89
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