Your new router has been engineered and manufactured to our Ryobi’s high standard for dependability, ease of
operation, and operator safety. When properly cared for, the router will give you years of rugged, trouble-free
performance.
To reduce the risk of injury, the user must read and understand the operator’s manual before using this product.
Thank you for buying a Ryobi product.
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Carrying tools with your finger on the switch or
plugging in tools that have the switch on, invites accidents.
Failure to
follow all instructions listed below, may result in elec-
tric shock, fire and/or serious personal injury.
A wrench or a key that is left attached to a
rotating part of the tool may result in personal injury.
Proper footing and balance enables better
control of the tool in unexpected situations.
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Cluttered
Dust mask, non-skid safety shoes, hard hat, or hearing
protection must be used for appropriate conditions.
benches and dark areas invite accidents.
Power tools create sparks
which may ignite the dust or fumes.
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Distractions can cause you to
lose control.
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Holding
the work by hand or against your body is unstable and
may lead to loss of control.
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The correct tool will do the job better and
safer at the rate for which it is designed.
Double insulation
for the three-wire grounded power cord and grounded
power supply system.
eliminates the need
Any tool that cannot be controlled with the switch is
dangerous and must be repaired.
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There is an
increased risk of electric shock if your body is grounded.
Such preventive safety measures
reduce the risk of starting the tool accidentally.
Water entering a power tool will increase the risk of elec-
tric shock.
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Tools are dangerous in the hands of
untrained users.
Properly maintained tools with sharp cutting
edges are less likely to bind and are easier to control.
Damaged cords
increase the risk of electric shock.
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These cords are
rated for outdoor use and reduce the risk of electric shock.
Many accidents are caused by
poorly maintained tools.
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Accessories that may
be suitable for one tool, may become hazardous when
used on another tool.
A moment of inatten-
tion while operating power tools may result in serious
personal injury.
Always use a clean cloth when
cleaning. Never use brake fluids, gasoline, petroleum-
based products, or any strong solvents to clean your
tool. Following this rule will reduce the risk of loss of
control and deterioration of the enclosure plastic.
I
Loose clothes,
jewelry, or long hair can be caught in moving parts.
3
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Use of unauthorized parts or
failure to follow Maintenance Instructions may create a
risk of electric shock or injury.
Service or maintenance performed
by unqualified personnel could result in a risk of injury.
I
Contact with a “live” wire will make exposed metal parts of the tool “live” and shock the
operator.
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Following this rule will reduce the risk of electric
shock, fire, or serious injury.
An undersized cord will cause a drop in line
voltage resulting in loss of power and overheating.
Following this rule will reduce the risk
of serious personal injury.
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Following this rule will reduce the risk of
serious personal injury.
Following this rule will reduce the
risk of serious personal injury.
Following this
rule will reduce the risk of serious personal injury.
Following this rule will reduce the risk of
electric shock, fire, or serious personal injury.
I
Following this rule will reduce the risk of electric shock
or fire.
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Some dust created by power sanding, sawing, grind-
ing, drilling, and other construction activities contains
chemicals known to cause cancer, birth defects or
other reproductive harm. Some examples of these
chemicals are:
•
•
lead from lead-based paints,
crystalline silica from bricks and cement and
other masonry products, and
arsenic and chromium from chemically-treated
lumber.
Following this rule will reduce the risk
of shock, fire, or serious injury.
•
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Your risk from these exposures varies, depending
on how often you do this type of work. To reduce
your exposure to these chemicals:work in a well ven-
tilated area, and work with approved safety equip-
ment, such as those dust masks that are specially
designed to filter out microscopic particles.
Follow-
ing this rule will reduce the risk of electric shock or fire.
4
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Some of the following symbols may be used on your tool. Please study them and learn their meaning. Proper
interpretation of these symbols will allow you to operate the tool better and safer.
V
A
Volts
Voltage
Amperes
Current
Hz
W
Hertz
Frequency (cycles per second)
Power
Watt
min
Minutes
Time
Alternating Current
No Load Speed
Class II Construction
Per Minute
Safety Alert
Wear Eye Protection
Type of current
n0
Rotational speed, at no load
Double-insulated construction
Revolutions, strokes, surface speed, orbits, etc. per minute
Precautions that involve your safety
.../min
Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses with side
shields and full face shield when operating this product
Wet Conditions Alert
Do not expose to rain or use in damp locations
The purpose of safety symbols is to attract your attention to possible dangers. The safety symbols, and the explanations
with them, deserve your careful attention and understanding. The safety warnings do not by themselves eliminate any
danger. The instructions or warnings they give are not substitutes for proper accident prevention measures.
Indicates an imminently hazardous situation which, if not avoided, will result in death or serious
injury.
Indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result in death or
serious injury.
Indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result in minor or
moderate injury. It may also be used to alert against unsafe practices that may cause property damage.
Advises you of information or instructions vital to the operation or maintenance of the
equipment.
Advises you of additional information concerning the operation or maintenance of the equipment.
5
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Double insulation is a concept in safety in electric power
tools, which eliminates the need for the usual three-wire
grounded power cord. All exposed metal parts are
isolated from the internal metal motor components with
protecting insulation. Double insulated tools do not need
to be grounded.
When using a power tool at a considerable distance from
a power source, be sure to use an extension cord that
has the capacity to handle the current the tool will draw.
An undersized cord will cause a drop in line voltage,
resulting in overheating and loss of power. Use the chart
to determine the minimum wire size required in an
extension cord. Only round jacketed cords listed by
Underwriter’s Laboratories (UL) should be used.
Servicing of a tool with double insulation
requires extreme care and knowledge of the system and
should be performed only by a qualified service
technician. For service, we suggest you return the tool to
your nearest authorized service center for repair. When
servicing, use only identical Ryobi replacement parts.
When working outdoors with a tool, use an extension
cord that is designed for outside use. This type of cord is
designated with “WA” on the cord’s jacket.
Before using any extension cord, inspect it for loose or
exposed wires and cut or worn insulation.
The double insulated system is intended to protect
the user from shock resulting from a break in the
tool's internal wiring. Observe all normal safety pre-
cautions related to avoiding electrical shock.
**Ampere rating (on tool faceplate)
0-2.0
2.1-3.4
3.5-5.0
5.1-7.0
7.1-12.0 12.1-16.0
25'
50'
16 16
16 16
16 16
16 16
16 14
14 12
14 14
14 12
The router has a precision built electric motor. It should
be connected to a power supply that is 120 volts, 60 Hz,
AC only (normal household current). Do not operate this
tool on direct current (DC). A substantial voltage drop will
cause a loss of power and the motor will overheat. If your
tool does not operate when plugged into an outlet,
double-check the power supply.
100'
10
—
**Used on 12 gauge - 20 amp circuit.
Keep the extension cord clear of the working area.
Position the cord so that it will not get caught on lum-
ber, tools or other obstructions while you are working
with a power tool. Failure to do so can result in seri-
ous personal injury.
Check extension cords before each use. If damaged
replace them immediately. Never use tool with a dam-
aged cord with this tool. Touching the damaged area
could cause serious injury due to electrical shock.
6
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Depth of Cut ....................................................................................................................................0 - 1-1/2 in. (0 - 38 mm)
Collet .............................................................................................................................................................. 1/4 in. (6 mm)
Peak Horsepower ........................................................................................................................................................ 1-1/2
Ampere ................................................................................................................................................................. 8.5 Amps
Input ............................................................................................................................................ 120 Volts, 60 Hz, AC only
No Load Speed ...................................................................................................................................................25,000/min
Power Cord ......................................................................................................................................................... 10 ft. (3 m)
Net Weight .....................................................................................................................................................7 lbs. (3.2 kg.)
Before using this tool, familiarize yourself with all operat-
ing features and safety requirements. However, do not let
familiarity with the tool make you careless.
The design of this tool provides for easy handling. It is
designed for comfort and ease of grasp when operating
in different positions and at different angles.
This new router is equipped with the following features.
See Figure 1.
Your router has a precision built electric motor.
The router kit has a powerful 8.5 amp motor with
sufficient power to handle tough routing jobs. It delivers
1-1/2 peak horsepower for heavy duty performance.
Do not
operate this tool on direct current (DC). A substantial
voltage drop will cause a loss of power and overheating.
If your tool does not operate when plugged into an outlet,
double-check the power supply.
The router has a conveniently located rocker switch.
The spindle lock secures the spindle so that you only
need one wrench to loosen the collet nut and change
cutters.
Double insulation is a concept in safety in electric power
tools, which eliminates the need for the usual three-wire
grounded power cord. All exposed metal parts are
isolated from the internal metal motor components with
protecting insulation. Double insulated tools do not need
to be grounded.
The depth adjusting ring allows you to adjust the depth of
cut.
The locking arm secures the motor housing in the base.
A plastic chip shield on the base of the router provides
protection against flying dust and chips.
7
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SWITCH
LOCKING
ARM
DEPTH
ADJUSTMENT
RING
SPINDLE
LOCK
BUTTON
HANDLE
CHIP SHIELD
Fig. 1
When unpacking the tool:
If any parts are missing do not operate the tool until
the missing parts are replaced. Failure to do so could
result in possible serious personal injury.
I Carefully remove the tool and accessories from the box.
I Make sure that all items listed in the packing list are in-
cluded.
I Inspect the tool carefully to make sure no breakage or
damage occurred during shipping.
I Do not discard the packing material until you have care-
The tool should never be connected to a power sup-
ply when you are assembling parts, making adjust-
ments, cleaning, performing maintenance, or when
the tool is not in use. Disconnecting the tool will pre-
vent accidental starting that could cause injury.
fully inspected and satisfactorily operated the tool.
I If any parts are damaged or missing, please call
1-800-525-2579 for assistance.
Router
Router Base
Collet Wrench
Tool Bag
8
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Exercise caution when using this tool. Careless ac-
tions, for even a fraction of a second, can result in
serious personal injury.
ON
You may use the router for the purposes listed below:
I Routing Grooves, shaping edges, etc. in wood.
I Chamfering, rabbeting, dadoing, and dovetailing in wood.
I Routing edges on plastic laminates.
OFF
Fig. 2
Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses with
side shields when using your router. Failure to do so
could result in dust, shavings, chips, loose particles,
or foreign objects being thrown in your eyes result-
ing in possible serious injury.If the operation is dusty,
also wear a face or dust mask.
See Figure 2.
I To turn on the router: Toggle the switch to the position.
I To turn off the router: Toggle the switch to the position.
See Figure 3.
Fig. 3
Follow these steps to operate the router.
1. Unplug the router.
Never place the router down on a work surface be-
fore the cutter stops.
Failure to unplug the tool could result in accidental
starting causing serious injury.
2. Securely tighten the cutter in the collet nut. Refer to
“Removing/Inserting Cutters” later in this manual.
3. Set the desired depth of cut. Refer to “Adjusting Depth
of Cut” later in this manual.
4. Secure the workpiece.
5. Plug the router into a power source.
6. Hold the router firmly with both hands.
7. Turn on the router and let the motor build to its full
speed.
8. Feed the cutter slowly into the workpiece.
Do not let the cutter contact the workpiece before
starting the router and allowing it to develop full speed.
9. Turn off the router upon completion of cut, and let the
motor come to a complete stop before removing the
router from the workpiece.
9
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Never connect the router to power supply when you
are assembling parts, making adjustments, install-
ing or removing cutters, or when not in use. Discon-
necting the router prevents accidental starting that
could cause serious injury.
See Figure 4.
1. Unplug the router.
LOCKING
ARM
DEPTH
ADJUSTMENT
RING
Failure to unplug the tool could result in accidental
starting causing serious injury.
2. Place the router upside down with the Ryobi label
away from you.
3. Loosen the locking arm on the base.
SPINDLE
LOCK
BUTTON
4. Depress and hold the spindle lock button on the motor.
5. Turn the collet nut until the hole in the collet aligns with
the spindle lock button.
6. Turn the depth adjusting ring counterclockwise until
the motor is to its highest position.
INDICATOR
ARROW
7. Align the indicator arrow on the depth adjustment ring
with the indicator point on the base.
8. Pull the base until it dislodges from the motor housing.
1/32
1. Unplug the router.
0
1
2
2. Place the fixed base on a flat surface.
3. Loosen the locking arm.
15/32
DEPTH
INDICATOR
RING
4. Align the indicator arrow on the depth adjustment ring
with the indicator point on the base.
5. Align the spindle lock button with the groove in the
base.
INDICATOR POINT
Fig. 4
6. Depress and hold the spindle lock button on the motor.
7. Slide the motor housing into the base.
8. Turn the depth adjusting ring counterclockwise until
the spindle lock snaps out as it clears the rear window,
just below the locking arm.
9. Tighten the locking arm.
10
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11
Proper depth of cut depends on several factors: the peak
horsepower of the router motor, the type of cutter, and
the type of wood. A lightweight, low horsepower router is
designed for making shallow cuts. A router with a high
horsepower rating can safely cut deeper. Small cutters,
such as veining bits with 1/16 in. (1.6 mm) cutting
diameters, are designed to remove only small amounts of
wood. Large cutters, such as straight-flute bits, are made
to remove larger amounts of wood. You can make deeper
cuts in soft woods, such as white pine, than in
hardwoods, like oak or maple.
LOCKING
ARM
Based on these considerations, choose a depth of cut
that will not place excessive strain on the router motor. If
you find that extra force is needed or that the motor
speed slows down considerably, turn off the router and
reduce the depth of cut. Then, make the cut in two or
more passes.
Fig. 6
DEPTH
ADJUSTMENT
RING
When routing a groove that is too deep to safely cut in
one pass, it is best to make the cut in several passes. We
recommend that cuts be made at a depth not exceeding
1/8 in. (3.2 mm) and that several passes be made to
reach deeper cuts.
Adjusting the depth of cut for the plunge router is different
from adjusting the depth of cut for the fixed router.
See Figures 6 and 7.
INDICATOR
ARROW
Follow these steps to adjust depth of cut for fixed routers.
1. Unplug the router.
1/32
0
1
2
Failure to unplug the tool could result in accidental
starting causing serious injury.
DEPTH
INDICATOR
RING
15/32
2. Place the router on a flat surface.
3. Loosen the locking arm.
INDICATOR POINT
Fig. 7
4. Turn the depth adjusting ring counterclockwise until
the tip of the cutter touches the flat surface.
5. Turn the depth indicator ring until the zero lines up with
the indicator point on the base.
6. Position the router so that the cutter can extend below
the subbase for desired depth of cut.
7. Turn the depth adjusting ring to obtain the desired
depth of cut.
8. Tighten the locking arm securely.
To adjust the depth of cut when the router is
mounted to a router table, turn the depth adjustment
ring until the cutter reaches the desired depth of cut.
12
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5
6
The “secret” of professional routing and edge shaping
lies in making a careful set-up for the cut and in selecting
the proper rate of feed.
3
4
See Figure 8.
2
1
PROPER CUTTING SEQUENCE
When routing, the cutter rotates clockwise. Therefore,
you should feed the router into the workpiece from left to
right. When you feed the router from left to right, the
rotation of the cutter pulls the router against the
workpiece. If you feed the router in the opposite direction,
the rotational forces of the spinning bit tend to throw the
router away from the workpiece. This action could cause
you to lose control of the router.
8
7
1/4 in. to 1 in.
(6.35 mm to 25.4 mm)
The router motor and bit revolve in a clockwise direction.
This gives the tool a slight tendency to twist in a
counterclockwise direction, especially when the motor
revs up.
Fig. 8
GUIDE OUTSIDE
Because of the extremely high speed of bit rotation
during a proper feeding operation, there is very little
kickback to contend with under normal conditions.
However, if the bit strikes a knot, hard grain, foreign
object, etc. that affects the normal progress of the cutting
action, there will be a slight kickback. This kickback is
sufficient to spoil the trueness of your cut if you are not
prepared. Such a kickback is always in the direction
opposite to the direction of bit rotation.
BIT ROTATION
THRUST
GUIDE
FEED
To guard against such a kickback, plan your setup and
direction of feed so that you will always be thrusting the
tool—to hold it against whatever you are using to guide
the cut—in the same direction that the leading edge of
the bit is moving. In short, the thrust should be in a
direction that keeps the sharp edges of the bit
GUIDE INSIDE
GUIDE
continuously biting straight into new (uncut) wood.
BIT ROTATION
See Figure 9.
FEED
Whenever you are routing a groove, your travel should be
in a direction that places whatever guide you are using at
the right-hand side. That is, when the guide is positioned
as shown in the first part of the figure, tool travel should
be from left to right and counterclockwise around curves.
When the guide is positioned as shown in the second
part of the figure, tool travel should be right to left and
clockwise around curves. If there is a choice, the first
setup is generally the easiest to use. In either case, the
sideways thrust you use is against the guide.
Fig. 9
13
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The proper rate of feed depends on several factors: the
hardness and moisture content of the wood, the depth of
cut, and the cutting diameter of the bit. When cutting
shallow grooves in soft woods such as pine, a faster rate
of feed can be used. When making deep cuts in
hardwoods such as oak, a slower rate of feed should be
used.
TOO FAST
The best rate of feed is one that does not slow down the
router motor more than one-third of its no-load speed. If
the router is fed too fast, it will take large chips out of the
wood and leave gouge marks. If the router is fed too slow,
it will scorch or burn the wood.
Fig. 10
Feeding Too Fast
See Figure 10.
Clean, smooth routing and edge shaping can be done
only when the bit is revolving at a relatively high speed
and is taking very small bites to produce tiny, cleanly
severed chips. If your router is forced to move forward too
fast, the RPM of the bit becomes slower than normal in
relation to its forward movement. As a result, the bit must
take bigger bites as it revolves. “Bigger bites” mean
bigger chips, and a rougher finish. Bigger chips also
require more power, which could result in the router
motor becoming overloaded.
TOO SLOW
Fig. 11
Feeding Too Slow
See Figure 11.
It is also possible to spoil a cut by moving the router
forward too slowly. When it is advanced into the work too
slowly, a revolving bit does not dig into new wood fast
enough to take a bite; instead, it simply scrapes away
sawdust-like particles. Scraping produces heat, which can
glaze, burn, or mar the cut and in extreme cases, can
even overheat the bit so as to destroy its hardness.
Under extreme force-feeding conditions the relative RPM
of the bit can become so slow—and the bites it has to
take so large — that chips will be partially knocked off
(rather than fully cut off), resulting in splintering and
gouging of the workpiece.
Your router is an extremely high-speed tool (25,000 RPM
no-load speed), and will make clean, smooth cuts if
allowed to run freely without the overload of a forced (too
fast) feed. Three things that cause “force feeding” are bit
size, depth-of-cut, and workpiece characteristics. The
larger the bit or the deeper the cut, the more slowly the
router should be advanced. If the wood is very hard,
knotty, gummy or damp, the operation must be slowed
still more.
In addition, it is more difficult to control a router when the
bit is scraping instead of cutting. With practically no load
on the motor the bit will be revolving at close to top RPM,
and will have a much greater than normal tendency to
bounce off the sides of the cut (especially if the wood has
a pronounced grain with hard and soft areas). As a result,
the cut produced may have rippled, instead of straight
sides.
You can always detect “force feeding” by the sound of the
motor. Its high-pitched whine will sound lower and
stronger as it loses speed. Also, the strain of holding the
tool will be noticeably increased.
“Too-slow feeding” can also cause your router to take off
in a wrong direction from the intended line of cut.
You can detect “too-slow feeding” by the runaway, high-
pitched sound of the motor; or by feeling the “wiggle” of
the bit in the cut.
14
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See Figure 12.
DEPTH
OF CUT
As previously mentioned, the depth of cut is important
because it affects the rate of feed that, in turn, affects the
quality of the cut (and, also, the possibility of damage to
your router motor and bit). A deep cut requires a slower
feed than a shallow one, and a too deep cut will cause
you to slow the feed so much that the bit is no longer
cutting, it is scraping, instead.
WIDTH
OF CUT
Making a deep cut is never advisable. The smaller bits —
especially those only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) in diameter —
are easily broken off when subjected to too much side
thrust. A large enough bit may not be broken, but if the
cut is too deep a rough cut will result — and it may be
very difficult to guide and control the bit as desired. For
these reasons, we recommend that you do not exceed
1/8 in. depth of cut in a single pass, regardless of the
bit size or the softness or condition of the workpiece.
2ND.
PASS
1ST.
PASS
1ST.
PASS
2ND.
PASS
To make deeper cuts it is therefore necessary to make as
many successive passes as required, lowering the bit 1/8
in. for each new pass. In order to save time, do all the
cutting necessary at one depth setting, before lowering
the bit for the next pass. This will also assure a uniform
depth when the final pass is completed.
Fig. 12
Your router is a versatile tool and can be used for many
different applications. You may rout grooves, carve
designs using a template, carve designs by freehand,
taper table and chair legs, mortise door jambs, or create
joints.
See Figure 13.
When routing across the face of boards, set router at
desired depth of cut, place the edge of router base
against workpiece, and turn on the router. Slowly feed
the cutter into the workpiece along desired line of cut.
If desired depth of cut is greater than can be safely
cut in one pass, make cuts in two or more passes.
Fig. 13
When routing straight cuts across stock, clamp a straight
edge to the workpiece to use as a guide. Position the
straightedge parallel to the line of cut and offset the
distance between the cutting edge of the cutter and the
edge of the router base. Hold the router base against the
straightedge and rout the groove.
15
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When routing a groove wider than the diameter of the
cutter, clamp a straightedge on both sides of the cutlines.
Position both guides parallel to the desired line of cut and
spaced equal distances from the desired edges of the
groove. Rout along one guide; then, reverse direction and
rout along the other guide. Clean out any remaining waste
in the center of the groove freehand.
See Figure 14.
When used freehand, your router becomes a flexible and
versatile tool. This flexibility makes it possible to easily
rout signs, relief sculptures, etc.
There are two basic techniques for freehand routing:
I Routing letters, grooves, and patterns into wood.
I Routing out the background, leaving the letters or
pattern raised above the surface.
When freehand routing, we suggest the following:
I Draw or layout the pattern on workpiece.
I Choose the appropriate cutter.
A core box or V-groove bit is often used for
routing letters and engraving objects. Straight bits and
ball mills are often used to make relief carvings.
Veining bits are used to carve small, intricate details.
Fig. 14
I Rout the pattern in two or more passes. Make the first
pass at 25% of the desired depth of cut. This will
provide better control as well as being a guide for the
next pass.
Do not rout deeper than 1/8 in. per pass.
Do not use large router bits for freehand routing.
Use of large router bits when freehand routing
could cause loss of control or create other hazard-
ous conditions that could cause possible serious
personal injury. When using a router table, large
router bits should be used for edging only. Do not
use router bits that are larger in diameter than the
opening in router subbase for any purpose.
16
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ROUTER
See Figure 15.
You can cut rabbets and molded edges using piloted
cutters. The pilot, which extends below the cutter, allows
the cutter to turn while the pilot follows the edge of the
workpiece. Some pilots are solid extensions of the cutter.
Others are ball bearing guides that are fastened to the
end of the cutter.
PILOT
Arbor-type bits with pilots are excellent for quick, easy
edge shaping. They follow workpiece edges that are
either straight or curved. The pilot prevents the bit from
making too deep a cut. Holding the pilot firmly in contact
with the workpiece edge throughout the cut prevents the
cut from becoming too shallow.
WORK
TOP EDGE SHAPING
ROUTER
Whenever the workpiece thickness together with the
desired depth of cut (as adjusted by router depth setting)
are such that only the top part of the edge is to be
shaped (leaving at least a 1/16 inch [1.6 mm] thick uncut
portion at bottom), the pilot can ride against the uncut
portion, which serves to guide it. However, if the
workpiece is too thin or the bit is set so low that there will
be no uncut edge to ride the pilot against, an extra board
must be placed under the workpiece to act as a guide.
This guide board must have exactly the same contour —
straight or curved — as the workpiece edge. If the guide
is positioned so that its edge is flush with the workpiece
edge, the bit will make a full cut (in as far as the bit
radius). On the other hand, if the guide is positioned as
shown (out from the workpiece edge), the bit will make
less than a full cut — which will alter the shape of the
finished edge.
WORK
PILOT
GUIDE
WHOLE EDGE SHAPING
Fig. 15
When edge shaping with guides, you can use any
of the piloted bits without a pilot. The size (diameter) of
the pilot determines the maximum cut width that you can
make with the pilot against the workpiece edge. The
small pilot exposes all of the bit; the large one reduces
this amount by 1/16 inch (1.6 mm).
When routing all edges of a panel or board, rout the end
grain first. Any splintering that occurs at the corners will
then be removed when routing the sides. Start each side
1/4 in. (6.35 mm) away from the end. Feed the cutter into
the wood until the pilot contacts the uncut edge. Then,
slowly back the router to shape the corner. Next, move
the router forward to shape the rest of the edge. Be
careful to keep the pilot pressed against the uncut edge.
Repeat this procedure on each side of the panel. Figure
20 shows the proper sequence of cuts to make when
edge routing four sides of a panel.
17
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When servicing use only identical Ryobi replacement parts. Use of any other parts may create a hazard or cause
product damage.
Avoid using solvents when cleaning plastic parts. Most
plastics are susceptible to damage from various types of
commercial solvents and may be damaged by their use.
Use clean cloths to remove dirt, carbon dust, etc.
All of the bearings in this tool are lubricated with a
sufficient amount of high grade lubricant for the life of the
unit under normal operating conditions. Therefore, no
further lubrication is required.
Get faster and more accurate cutting results by keeping
cutters clean and sharp. Remove all accumulated pitch
and gum from cutters after each use.
Do not at any time let brake fluids, gasoline, petro-
leum-based products, penetrating oils, etc. come in
contact with plastic parts.They contain chemicals that
can damage, weaken, or destroy plastic.
When sharpening cutters, sharpen only the inside of the
cutting edge. Never grind the outside diameter. Be sure
when sharpening the end of a cutter to grind the
clearance angle the same as originally ground.
Electric tools used on fiberglass material, wallboard,
spackling compounds, or plaster are subject to
accelerated wear and possible premature failure, as the
fiberglass chips and grindings are highly abrasive to
bearings, brushes, commutators, etc. Consequently, we
do not recommended that this tool be used for extended
work on these types of materials. If, however, you do
work with any of these materials, it is extremely important
that you clean the tool frequently by blowing it with an air
jet.
Dust and chips may collect on the collet from time to time,
making it necessary to clean the collet. To do so, remove
the collet assembly and wipe it with a clean dry rag.
Clean the taper in the shaft in the same manner. Never
immerse the collet or end of the shaft in a solvent or in
water. Before replacing the collet assembly, put a drop of
SAE30 motor oil on the inside of the nut, on the threads
of the shaft, and on the taper in the shaft. Replace the
collet assembly onto the shaft by hand only. Never
tighten the collet nut without a bit in the collet. This action
could permanently damage the collet.
Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses with
side shields during power tool operation or when
blowing dust. If operation is dusty, also wear a dust
mask.
The following recommended accessories are currently
available.
The use of attachments or accessories not listed
could be hazardous.
Template ........................................................... 4070177
Edge Guide ....................................................... 6090080
18
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• SERVICE
Now that you have purchased your tool, should a need ever exist for repair parts or service,
simply contact your nearest Ryobi Authorized Service Center. Be sure to provide all pertinent
facts when you call or visit. Please call 1-800-525-2579 for your nearest Ryobi Authorized
of Authorized Service Centers.
• MODEL NO. AND SERIAL NO.
The model number of this tool will be found on a plate attached to the motor housing.
Please record the model number and serial number in the space provided below.
• HOW TO ORDER REPAIR PARTS
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS,
ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
• MODEL NUMBER
• SERIAL NUMBER
1428 Pearman Dairy Road
Post Office Box 1207
Anderson, SC 29625
Anderson, SC 29622
Phone 1-800-525-2579
983000-165
8-03
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