Maytag Refrigerator MFI2568AEW User Manual

Maytag Ice2O French Door Refrigerator/Freezer Model

MFI2568AEW

HV Control Board repair instruction guide

Note: This information is copyrighted material designed for non-commercial informational use,

and provided as-is with no warrantee whatsoever. Use at your own risk.

Symptoms:

•

Continuously flashing, blinking front panel display lights

Ice door flapping, clicking, opening and closing continuously

Lack of responsiveness to any button on the door

No ice or water dispenses

Optional Symptoms

•

Lights may only flash when compressor runs

Compressor may not run at all (fridge does not stay cold anymore)

•

Hello:

This guide describes my adaptation of a solution that was inspired by the Samurai Appliance Repair Man (SARM)

and a posting on the related appliance repair forum thread located at

http://applianceguru.com/view_topic.php?id=13035&forum_id=1&jump_to=75815 .

Since I found this info on the web for free, and you are finding this info on the web for free, if you find this helpful in

saving the +/- $350 repair bill or getting the fridge fixed faster than waiting on a new board (many reports of this are

back-ordered) please make the suggested donation of a “fin” to the SARM to help keep his free appliance repair

forum going. Tell him “Steve sent you” ;-)

What follows are two things: the unfortunately needed legal disclaimer on the conditions of using this info, and

lastly the actual description of what I did to fix my own fridge. Make no mistake, you will be fiddling with

components controlling wall-outlet levels of electricity, so if you haven’t ever done something like this, find a friend

who has or call in your local Maytag repair man.

In researching a fix for the fridge at 3am 7/5/07 after my fridge started the above symptoms, I located a number of

sites that had reference to this problem. The SARM actually had a description of a tech going to his friend with the

electronics shop and he repaired the board, it was re-installed, and seems to be working. Thus the inspiration for

my attempt, which as of the writing, is about 2 days running without problem.

I consider myself handy, and an electronics hobbyist, hence why I decided to try performing the work myself. That

plus I was looking at a minimum $300 repair bill to replace the HV Control Board and since it was going to be

replaced anyway, I was willing to spend $5 in parts to save the $300.

So without further delay, please carefully read BOTH sections, and good luck !

- Steve

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Overview:

Your job is to carefully remove 2 failed components from the main High Voltage (HV) Control Board– specifically 2

electrolytic capacitors (caps) - from an electronic Printed Circuit Board (PCB).

You will need to purchase replacement parts for this repair. Additionally, you will need equipment that is common

to any electronics hobbyist’s toolkit to de-solder defective parts and solder in new replacement parts. In order to get

the fridge fixed as fast as possible, I used readily available (to my area) replacement parts from Radio Shack (RS).

RS does not have the exact replacement parts that are used in the fridge, but they have items that are “close

enough” to use. If you don’t have a RS near you that stocks these parts, you’ll have to get them by mail order from

places like Jameco Electronics (www.jameco.com), or Mouser Electronics (www.mouser.com). I’ve ordered from both

them before and both are reliable parts vendors. From them, you can get exact replacements.

Technical stuff:

The problem with the fridge is that two electrolytic caps that are used to make a low voltage (12vDC like your car)

power supply over time get weaker and fail. These are 680uF (micro Farads) 35V units that level out the rectified

and now pulsing AC voltage from a transformer to a nice even DC voltage. This is a very common power supply

design. Capacitors store electricity and more info can be located on the Wikipedia at

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor . The failure of these electrolytic capacitors as I saw in my fridge was typical.

They were hot to the touch even after power was turned off while the others were not, the tops were domed or

crowned, and after removal, they checked out dramatically lower in value than the label value of 680uF.

In looking at the PCB, I could determine that these were wired in parallel (see same Wikipedia link), and hence the

circuit was using these two capacitors adding up to a total of 680uF + 680uF = 1360uF. RS had in stock a 1000uF

and 470uF 35V units that could be similarly used 1000uF + 470uF = 1470uF. Since the caps had a 20% tolerance

(meaning the value could vary +/- 20% from the rating) this pair could have a value anywhere between 1176uF and

1764uF. This can be considered “close enough” in such a power supply design. Remember, the caps coming out also

have some +/- tolerance (my parts don’t show how much) but filters like this in power supplies are OK with a little

higher value.

So when the caps fail, the power supply starts to fluctuate at the same rate as the AC wall power frequency (60Hz in

the US) which can do one of two things: creates lots of electrical noise on the power supply that the fridge’s

microcontroller (computer) mis-reads as important information that it needs to act upon and hasn’t a clue how to, or

the power becomes so poor that the microprocessor thinks it’s just starting up from being plugged in and goes thru

it’s initialization sequence which seems to include an opening and closing of the ice door flapper. This then gets

repeated indefinitely while it’s plugged in, hence the flashing and flapping you see. Worst case is there is

insufficient power to pull in the relays that do things like start the compressor that keeps the fridge cold with the

obvious end results to the meat in your freezer. Have a Bar-B-Q with the neighbors so it doesn’t go to waste.

Whew.

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Parts and Supplies List

Parts needed:

(1) 1000uF radial lead electrolytic cap, Radio Shack P/N 272-1032 $1.59

(1) 470uF radial lead electrolytic cap, Radio Shack P/N 272-1030 $1.29

Total $2.89 + tax

If you don’t have soldering and de-soldering tools you’ll need these:

(1) de-soldering bulb, Radio Shack P/N 64-2086 $3.99

(1) pencil tip soldering iron, Radio Shack P/N 64-2051 $7.99

Note RS has many irons, this seems to be the cheapest

(1) Rosin core solder 64-017 $1.99

Total $13.97 + tax

Other stuff:

(1) ordinary sponge (buy a new one for the sink, cause you won’t want to use this for dishes ever again)

(1) 3-prong grounding extension cord (temporarily needed for testing)

(1) ABC rated fire extinguisher (a safety measure)

Rubbing alcohol

Q-Tips^tm

So a complete kit will set you back around $20. Note prices are as seen on the Radio Shack web site as of 7/7/07 and

subject to change at RS’s whim.

Tools:

¼” socket and ratchet, or a ¼” nut driver,

(1) flat blade screwdriver (2 if you have them)

(1) set of extra hands of a helper from time to time

Pair of “diagonal cutters” – a type of wire cutter

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Step-By-Step procedures:

Stop the flapping !!!

These steps are optional if you want to stop the flapping noise while you go get the parts, presuming the compressor

still runs and keeps the fridge cold. If the fridge no longer stays cold, skip these steps and just unplug the fridge

1. Unplug the fridge.

2. If the fridge still keeps cool, then perform the rest of the steps to disconnect the flapper door opener thing-a-

ma-bob.

3. Remove the drip tray from the bottom of the ice/water dispenser recess on the front left door. This exposes

(2) ¼” screws. (Fig. 1)

Fig. 1

4. Use the ¼” nut driver (or socket and ratchet) and remove the screws.

5. Understand that the upper part of this frame is held by a clip from behind that does not move. You need to

pull the lower part of the frame forward that will allow you to lift it up off the top clip. So…

6. GENTLY press the lower right side of the ice/water dispenser frame towards the center and forward to un-

snap the frame. Repeat for the lower left side of the frame.

7. GENTLY lift the frame up and away from the fridge a couple inches allowing you to see the wires behind.

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8. Have your helper hold the frame while you unplug the small wire connector (Fig 2) from the PCB. This will

stop the power from going to the door flapper and ice dispenser.

View looking down from the top

of the ice/water dispenser

Power to flapper door

and water dispenser

Fig. 2

9. Re-assemble the front door frame by hooking it to the top and gently pressing it back into place.

10. Replace the 2 screws to keep it from popping off.

11. Replace the drip tray

12. Plug the fridge back in. If the ice door flapper is in the open position, stick a CLEAN (white preferred, color

choice your decision) sock into the opening to prevent cold air from escaping.

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Fixing the HV Control Board.

Remove the PCB from the fridge:

1. Start by rolling out your fridge from where it’s stashed. You’ll need to access the back of the fridge.

2. Unplug the fridge (if it’s not already). This is a Safety Step – don’t skip it.

3. Locate the metal cover plate and the (4) ¼” screws securing it at the corners (Fig 3):

Fig. 3

4. Use the ¼” nut driver (or socket and ratchet) and remove the screws.

5. You should now be looking at the HV Control Board behind a hard clear plastic cover (Fig 4.):

Fig. 4

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6. Understand the plastic cover is held in place by (2) unmovable tabs on the left (think of this as the hinge side

of a door) that will break if you try to move them, and a movable tab on the right (think of it as the door

latch) that can be pulled forward. See Fig 5:

Fig. 5

7. Remove the clear plastic door by gently prying the right side loose, and swinging it out. Pull the door to the

right releasing the tabs on the left from their holes.

8. You should now be able to touch the PCB. The 2 failing/failed caps are on the upper part of the PCB, look

like cylinders and the top might be described as looking like Mercedes Benz ™ hood ornaments. They may

still even be warm to the touch vs. the other components. CAREFUL as they could also be pretty hot and

could burn your finger. (Fig 6)

Two bad caps – to be replaced.

One good cap.

Possible curved top like a dome

Note flat top

Fig. 6

9. Feel the tops of the caps. They should be flat except around the edges where the label curls around from the

side. If the top feels curved upwards like a dome, or if they were warm to touch vs. the other components,

they are probably bad. (also Fig. 6)

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10. Understand there are 4 wire connectors plugged into the circuit board that will need to be removed. They

are all removed in the same manner. You will want to either mark or draw a picture as to which connector

comes from what plug to make re-assembly easier. The wires are just the right lengths and naturally fit to

the proper connectors if you want to skip the pictures/labels. See Fig 7:

Behind

the

label

Fig. 7

11. GENTLY depress the top of the lever in the middle of one of the connectors and pull the connector up off of

the PCB. You may have to GENTLY rock the connector back and forth (along the long side) to get the

connector off. (Fig. 8)

Release Clip. All 4

connectors similar

Fig. 8

12. Repeat the above step for the rest of the connectors.

13. Understand that the PCB is held in place by a top and bottom plastic clips that can break, and the right side

tucks into a slot in the white plastic tub holding the PCB and wires. (Fig 9).

PCB hold-down clips

Fig. 9

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14. Using your flat blade screwdriver, push the small fingers on one of the tabs away from the PCB and using

your finger, or the 2^ndflat blade screwdriver, GENTLY pry the side of the PCB toward you enough to clear

the fingers on the tab. (Fig 10)

Fig. 10

15. Repeat the last step for the 2^ndtab holding the PCB in place

16. GENTLY and evenly pull the left hand side of the PCB towards you and out of the clip, then slide it out from

the slot on the right hand side. (Fig 11)

Fig. 11

17. Mark the right hand side with a bit of tape or marker so you know which side is what come re-assembly

time.

18. You should now have the PCB free in your hands unattached to the fridge. (Yay!)

Cautionary Note: The PCB contains delicate electronic parts that can be damaged by static electricity. When

handling it, take precautions to minimize the risk of generating a static charge lest you damage the board. So, no

scuffing your feet on the rug, rubbing a balloon on your shirt, or other shenanigans. If you have an electronics

grounding strap made for this purpose (the kind that drains thru a resistor, not a bare copper wire bonded to the

cold water pipe), wear it.

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Replace the Caps:

1. Take a close look at the caps. Mine showed a domed top which can be seen from the side view of the board.

(Fig 12) Yours may or may not look like this, but you can see which caps you’ll need to replace in this figure.

Failed Caps

Domed tops

Good Cap

Flat top

Fig. 12

2. Turn the board over and locate the solder connections to the 2 failed caps. Note the “positive” and “negative”

connections which are important when you go to put the new parts in place. (Fig 13)

Positive

(+)

terminal

Negative

(-)

terminal

Failed caps -

solder side of PCB

Fig. 13

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3. This is where you’ll need to get help from a friend if you don’t know how to solder. Read this description

fully before starting.

4. Using your soldering iron, and de-soldering bulb for suction, one cap at a time, melt each connection, squeeze

the bulb, and place it right on the molten solder and quickly un-squeeze the bulb while keeping it in place.

This acts like a mini vacuum cleaner and removes the solder from the connection. You may have to do this a

couple times to get as much solder off as possible. If the bulb gets clogged poke it clear with a toothpick or

small nail. Don’t keep the soldering iron on too long as it may damage the PCB.

5. With most of the solder removed, re-heat the 2 connections until the solder melts and then gently rock the

cap back and forth from the other side pulling the cap out. You may have to heat one connection at a time

and pull the cap up on that side. You may also need a helper to hold the PCB and pull on the cap for you.

Be careful not to burn your friend (perhaps they should be wearing heavy work gloves just in case..). I don’t

have a picture of this since it required all my hands and fingers to get it off, leaving none for the camera.

6. With the cap removed, if there is an open hole, great. If there is still solder in the hole, find a toothpick, re-

heat the hole till the solder melts, then gently stick the wooden toothpick through the hole, remove the

soldering iron and let it cool. Once the solder hardens, remove the toothpick. Remember that just because

the solder is hard does not make if safe to touch – it’s still quite hot. Blowing on it speeds the cooling

process..

7. You should be left with 4 holes in the PCB and 2 caps apart from the PCB.

8. Electrolytic caps have a “plus” (+) and a minus (-) just like your car. And just like your car, if you hook them

up backwards, dire things happen. So look at the caps you took out, and are about to put in. You’ll see a

“minus sign” or dash on one side. The wire coming out next to the minus side is the negative. The opposite

is the positive. (Fig 14) One of the new RS caps is on the right. (Fig 15) Same type of marking, slightly

different color combinations. See the arrow in the marking pointing to the bottom of the cap and the actual

wire lead.

Negative (-)

terminals

Negative (-)

terminal

Minus

sign

Minus

signs

Minus

signs

Fig. 15

Fig. 14

9. With the “minus” lead of the caps towards the center of the board, push the wire leads thru the holes and

seat the cap flat on the PCB. You can bend the wire leads out 45^oto hold the caps in place for when you turn

the PCB upside down. Note that it does not matter which cap goes into either set of holes, only that the

positive leads go into the holes towards the edge of the board, and the negative leads go into the holes

towards the middle of the board.

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10. A view of the caps inserted in the PCB. Note that the negative or “minus” side of the caps and their

“dashed” markings are facing away from you. Also note the “plus” sign written on the PCB. (Fig 16)

Minus

signs

caps

Plus signs on PCB

Fig. 16

11. Solder the 4 wire leads on the same side of the PCB you de-soldered. This is a critical step, so if you’re not

sure on how to solder, find someone who does. A bad solder joint here can make the connection useless.

12. Use your wire cutters to cut off the leads just above the solder connection. With any luck or skill, your

connections should look like this. (Fig 17)

Fig. 17

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13. Clean the PCB with the Q-Tips and rubbing alcohol. This removes the residue that came out of the solder

when you heated it. Check to be sure that you don’t have any solder blobs bridging the gap between the

brown sections of the board. If you do, re-melt the solder and remove the bridge using the de-soldering bulb.

You should be able to see a clear green line between the positive and negative sides of each cap you soldered.

(Fig 18)

Check

for, and

remove

solder

bridges

across

here

Fig. 18

14. The completed board looks like this on top. (Fig 19)

Fig. 19

15. Well, if all looks the same on the solder side as when you first started, and you haven’t had to reach for the

burn cream, give yourself and your helper (if you have one) a pat on the back. You’re well on your way to

being able to get the fridge back together and cooling off a refreshment of your choice. ☺

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Re-install the PCB:

1. Installation is the reverse order of removal

2. Tuck the right hand side of the PCB (the one you marked, right ?) into the slot on the right hand side of the

white plastic tub. (Fig 20)

Fig. 20

3. GENTLY press the left side of the PCB into the top and bottom clips till they snap closed, securing the PCB

in place. (Figs. 21 & 22)

Fig. 21

Fig. 22

4. Re-attach the wire connectors to the PCB – they should naturally fall back into the proper place to connect

back, and match your markings drawings you made when you took them off. Push the wires back into the

chases alongside the PCB. (Fig 23)

Fig. 23

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5. GENTLY place the (2) small tabs on the clear plastic cover into the slots on the left hand side of the opening

for the PCB (Fig 24)

Fig. 24

6. GENTLY close the clear plastic cover, engaging the latch on the right hand side.

7. You are now ready to test the fridge. (Yay again !) ☺

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Testing the Fridge (CAUTION REQUIRED):

1. Since this guide was written for an audience that might have minimal tools as opposed to a host of bench

test equipment, “testing the fridge” entails essentially “plugging it in”. THIS IS THE MOST DANGEROUS

STEP IN THE PROCESS as I can’t tell how well you’ve done your repair or re-assembly, so you should

carefully re-read the Important Safety Reminders section. Your helper should be at the breaker box ready to

turn off the power to the outlet you’re about to plug the fridge into. My apologies if this sounds

melodramatic, but I have no idea what you’re capable of doing, or whether there is something else wrong

with your fridge that can cause something else to happen. Remember, you’re here because you’re willing to

try a $20 repair to attempt to save >$300. If this step now gives you butterflies in your stomach, CALL THE

MAYTAG REPAIRMAN.

2. With your helper within ear-shot of your voice command to “turn off the power” if needed, plug the extension

cord into the outlet.

3. Pull the fridge plug and extension cord socket to the side of the fridge away from the PCB so you can easily

unplug it in a hurry if you need to.

4. Understand you need to look at the PCB and listen to the fridge for proper operation the moment you plug it

in. Any signs of sparks, smoke, fire, melting insulation or plastic or any other general mayhem should alert

you to unplug the fridge immediately. If you can’t unplug it, call to your helper to trip the breaker.

5. CAREFULLY plug the fridge in. Look for any signs of sparks, smoke, fire, melting insulation or plastic. If

any are suspected, UNPLUG THE FRIDGE IMMEDIATELY. Either you didn’t perform the repair correctly,

or the fridge needs other repairs and you’ll have to call in the repairman (such was the possibility you

understood before you started).

6. If the fridge is running properly, and the display shows the correct set temps, you’re good to go ☺

7. Unplug fridge.

8. Re-install the metal cover over the clear plastic cover and replace the (4) ¼” screws.

9. If you didn’t disconnect the flapper door, plug the fridge in again and push it back into place. You’re done.

Congratulations.

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Optional: Plug the flapper door back in:

1. Unplug the fridge.

2. Remove the drip tray from the bottom of the ice/water dispenser recess on the front left door if needed. This

exposes (2) ¼” screws (Fig. 25)

Fig. 25

3. Use the ¼” nut driver (or socket and ratchet) and remove the screws.

4. Understand that the upper part of this frame is held by a clip from behind that does not move. You need to

pull the lower part of the frame forward that will allow you to lift it up off the top clip. So…

5. GENTLY press the lower right side of the ice/water dispenser frame towards the center and forward to un-

snap the frame. Repeat for the lower left side of the frame.

6. GENTLY lift the frame up and away from the fridge a couple inches allowing you to see the wires behind.

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7. Have your helper hold the frame while you plug the small wire connector back into the PCB. (Fig 26)

View looking down from the top

of the ice/water dispenser

Power to flapper door

and water dispenser

Fig. 26

8. Re-assemble the front door frame by hooking it to the top and gently pressing it back into place.

9. Replace the 2 screws.

10. Replace the drip tray.

11. Plug the fridge back in.

12. Check the operation of the water dispenser and the ice dispenser.

13. If everything checks out, push the fridge back into place.

I hope this document has proven a light and interesting read, and has possibly helped you better understand how

your fridge operates (or fails to do so).

As any of you who have been exposed to Boy Scouts will know, one should always seek to “Do a good turn”. Here’s

one of mine. Now you go out and do something helpful for someone else. And if everyone did that, it will be a

nicer place to live.

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