Pacific Cycle BRIGHT LIGHT ENERGY HF3305 User Manual

HELMETS  
SAVE  
CORRECT FITTING - MAKE  
SURE YOUR HELMET COVERS  
YOUR FOREHEAD.  
LIVES !!!  
ALWAYS WEAR A PROPERLY  
FITTED HELMET WHEN  
YOU RIDE YOUR BICYCLE.  
DO NOT RIDE AT NIGHT.  
AVOID RIDING IN WET  
CONDITIONS.  
INCORRECT FITTING. FOREHEAD  
IS EXPOSED AND VULNERABLE  
TO SERIOUS INJURY.  
Please Retain your Sales Receipt  
as Proof of Purchase.  
Notes: _______________________________________________________________  
_______________________________________________________________________  
_______________________________________________________________________  
_______________________________________________________________________  
_______________________________________________________________________  
_______________________________________________________________________  
________  
_______________________________________________________________________  
The following manual is only a guide to assist you and is not a complete or comprehensive manual of all aspects of  
maintaining and repairing your bicycle. The bicycle you have purchased is a complex object. We recommend that you  
consult a bicycle specialist if you have doubts or concerns as to your experience or ability to properly assemble, repair, or  
maintain your bicycle. You will save time and the inconvenience of having to go back to the store if you choose to write or  
call us concerning missing parts, service questions, operating advice, and/or assembly questions.  
SERVICE  
CALL TOLL FREE 1.800.626.2811  
Monday - Friday 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Central Time  
Serial Number Location  
Bike Shown Upside Down  
####  
PACIFICCYCLE  
4902 Hammersley Road  
Madison, WI 53711  
Customer Service 1.800.626.2811  
www.pacific-cycle.com  
Serial Number  
PART 1  
PART 2  
PART 3  
PART 4  
PART 5  
PART 6  
PART 7  
Parts Identification...................................................... 02-05  
Before You Ride........................................................... 06-21  
Assembly ..................................................................... 22-62  
Servicing ...................................................................... 63-65  
Detailed Maintenance.................................................. 66-97  
How Things Work.......................................................98-110  
Purchase Record and Warranty.............................. 111-112  
?
Warning / Important  
Take notice of this symbol throughout this manual and pay particular  
attention to the instructions blocked off and preceded by this symbol.  
PACIFICCYCLE  
P.O. Box 344 · 4730 E. Radio Tower Ln. · Olney, IL 62450  
Customer Service 1.800.626.2811 www.pacific-cycle.com  
1. PARTS IDENTIFICATION  
Mountain Bicycles  
BMX Bicycles  
2-5  
2
3
Derailleur Geared Bicycle  
Handlebars, Stems and Shifters  
-Aheadset  
-Sunken Stem  
-Shifters  
22-45  
22-25  
23  
24  
25  
Rotors  
56-57  
58  
58  
58  
59-61  
59  
60  
60  
60  
61  
Drivetrain  
-Pedals  
-Inspection  
-Lubrication & Adjustment  
-Attachment  
81-89  
81-82  
81  
82  
82  
Axle Peg Assembly  
-Non-Threaded Axle Peg  
-Threaded Axle Peg  
Training Wheels  
-Wheels to Brace  
-Brace to Bicycle  
-C-Shape Brace  
-Flat Brace  
Tools Required  
4
2. BEFORE YOU RIDE  
Correct Frame Size  
Riding Position  
-Saddle Height  
-Reach  
-Handlebar Height  
6-21  
Forks  
26  
27  
28  
29  
29-30  
-Crank Set  
-Inspection  
-Lubrication & Adjustment  
(one piece cranks)  
-Lubrication & Adjustment  
(cotterless cranks)  
83-86  
83  
6
7
7
7
8
Seat and Seat Post  
Pedals & Crank Set  
Front Wheel  
-Stabilizer Bracket  
Final Check  
84  
Quick Release Axle  
62  
85-86  
Front Brake  
30-37  
30-31  
32  
32-34  
35  
4. SERVICING  
63-65  
63  
64  
Safety Checklist  
-Brakes  
-Wheels & Tires  
-Steering  
-Chain  
-Bearings  
-Cranks & Pedals  
-Derailleurs  
-Frame & Fork  
-Accessories  
9-10  
9
9
-Cantilever with Link Wire  
-Cantilever with Straddle Cable  
-V-Style  
-Check your Brakes  
-Disc Brakes  
-Chain  
-Inspection  
-Lubrication  
-Adjustment & Replacement  
-Freewheel  
87-88  
87  
87  
87-88  
88-89  
88  
Schedule 1 - Lubrication  
Schedule 2 - Service Checklist  
Tools Required  
65  
9
10  
10  
10  
10  
10  
10  
36-37  
5. DETAILED MAINTENANCE  
Wheel Inspection  
Tire Inspection  
Tire Pressures  
Hub Bearing Adjustment  
Flat Tire Repair  
66-97  
66  
67  
67  
68  
68-69  
70-71  
71  
-Inspection  
-Lubrication  
Derailleur  
-Rear Derailleur  
-Front Derailleur  
38-39  
38  
39  
89  
-Coaster Hub  
89  
Dual Suspension  
Rear Pivots  
Accessories  
Reflectors  
40  
41  
42  
42  
43-44  
43  
Derailleur Systems  
-Inspection  
-Lubrication  
90-92  
90  
91  
Handlebar Stem  
Handlebars  
Helmets  
Reflectors  
11  
12-13  
-Adjustment (Rear)  
-Adjustment (Front)  
91  
92  
Grip Shift Installation  
72  
73  
Riding Safely  
-General Rules  
14-16  
14  
Fenders  
-Front Fender  
-Rear Fender  
Final Check  
Cables & Cable Housing  
-Wet Weather Riding  
-Night Riding  
-Pedaling Technique  
-Hill Technique  
-Cornering Technique  
-Rules for Children  
15  
15  
15  
16  
16  
16  
44  
45  
Quick Release Levers  
Reflectors  
Miscellaneous Accessories  
-Basket Assembly  
Troubleshooting  
93  
93  
94  
94  
95-97  
Headset  
-Inspection  
-Adjustment  
74  
74  
74  
Single Speed & BMX  
Handlebars  
46-62  
46  
Seat  
47  
47  
48  
Saddle & Seat Post  
-Inspection  
-Lubrication  
75-76  
75  
75  
Pedals & Crank Set  
Front wheel  
6. HOW THINGS WORK  
-A. Wheel Quick Release  
-B. Seatpost Quick Release  
-C. Brakes  
98-110  
98-102  
102  
103-104  
104-107  
107  
108  
108-110  
110  
Gears - How to Operate  
-Derailleur Gears  
-Operating Principles  
-Hand Grip Shifters  
-Thumb Shifters  
17-19  
17  
17  
18  
19  
-Adjustment  
76  
Front Brake  
48  
49  
49-50  
51  
52-53  
54  
54  
Side Pull Brake  
Cantilever with Link Wire  
Cantilever with Straddle Cable  
V-Brake  
-D. Shifting  
Brakes  
-Inspection  
-Lubrication  
-Adjustment Sidepull Calipers  
-Adjustment Cantilever Calipers  
77-80  
77-78  
78  
78-79  
79-80  
-E. Toeclips & Straps  
-F. Clipless (“step-in”) pedals  
-G. Tires and Tubes  
-H. Bicycle Suspension  
-Below the Bar Shifters  
19  
Bicycle Care  
-Basic Maintenance  
-Storage  
20-21  
20  
21  
U-Brake  
-Front U-Brake  
-Rear U-Brake  
Blake Lever  
54  
55  
7. PURCHASE RECORD  
& WARRANTY  
111-112  
-Security  
21  
Check your Brakes  
55  
3. ASSEMBLY  
22-62  
01  
Mountain Bicycles . Mountain bicycles are designed to give maximum comfort over a wide variety of road surfaces. The  
wider handlebars and convenient shift lever position make them very easy to control. Wider rims and tires give them a softer  
ride with more traction on rough surfaces. The frame and fork on mountain style bicycles are generally much sturdier than those on  
racing style bicycles.  
Shift Lever  
Handlebar  
Top Tube  
Brake Lever  
Brake Control Cables  
Seat  
Seat Post  
Handlebar Stem  
Front Reflector  
Quick Release  
Head Set  
Front Brake  
Seat Stay  
Head Tube  
Front Fork  
Rear Reflector  
Wheel Reflector  
Rear Brake  
Seat Tube  
Down Tube  
Front Hub  
Wheel Reflector  
Spokes  
Freewheel  
Gear Control Cable  
Front Derailleur  
Bottom  
Bracket Axle  
Rim  
Tire  
Chain Wheel  
Crank Arm  
Pedal  
Chain Stay  
Tire Valve  
Gear Control  
Cable  
Chain  
Rear Derailleur  
02  
BMX Bicycles . BMX style bicycles are a popular general purpose type most suited for young riders. They are  
valued because of their sturdy and simple construction, and low maintenance.  
Front Brake Lever  
Handlebar  
Seat  
Handlebar Grip  
Handlebar Stem  
Head Set  
Brake Control Cable  
Seat Post  
Seat Post Binder Bolt or  
Quick-Release Skewer  
Front Reflector  
Front Brake  
Brake Pad  
Head Tube  
Seat Stay  
Top Tube  
Rear Reflector  
Wheel Reflector  
Front Fork  
Wheel Reflector  
Front Hub  
Spokes  
Seat Tube  
Down Tube  
Chain Wheel  
Crank Arm  
Pedal  
Chain  
Rim  
Chain Stay  
Tire  
Rear Sprocket  
Training Wheel  
Tire Valve  
03  
Your new bicycle was assembled and tuned in the factory and then partially disassembled for shipping. You  
may have purchased the bicycle already fully assembled and ready to ride OR in the shipping carton in the par-  
tially disassembled form. The following instructions will enable you to prepare your bicycle for years of enjoy-  
able cycling. For more details on inspection, lubrication, maintenance and adjustment of any area please refer  
to the relevant sections in this manual. If you have questions about your ability to properly assemble this unit,  
please consult a qualified specialist before riding. If you need replacement parts or have questions pertaining to  
assembly of your bicycle, call the service line direct at:  
SERVICE AND TECHNICAL SUPPORT:  
1.800.626.2811  
Monday - Friday 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Central Time.  
Tools Required:  
Phillips head screw driver  
4mm, 5mm 6mm & 8mm Allen keys  
Adjustable wrench or a 9mm, 10mm,  
14mm & 15mm open and box  
end wrenches  
A pair of pliers with cable cutting ability  
To avoid injury, this product must be properly assembled before use. If your bicycle was  
obtained assembled, we strongly recommend that you review the complete assembly  
instructions and perform checks specified in this manual before riding.  
04  
ABOUT THIS MANUAL  
It is important for you to understand your new bicycle. By reading this manual before you go out on your first ride, you’ll know how to get  
better performance, comfort, and enjoyment from your new bicycle.  
It is also important that your first ride on your new bicycle is taken in a controlled environment, away from cars, obstacles, and other  
cyclists.  
GENERAL WARNING  
Bicycling can be a hazardous activity even under the best of circumstances. Proper maintenance of your bicycle is your responsibility as  
it helps reduce the risk of injury. This manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” concerning the consequences of failure to main-  
tain or inspect your bicycle. Many of the warnings and cautions say “you may lose control and fall.” Because any fall can result in seri-  
ous injury or even death, we do not repeat the warning of possible injury or death whenever the risk of falling is mentioned.  
A SPECIAL NOTE FOR PARENTS  
It is a tragic fact that most bicycle accidents involve children. As a parent or guardian, you bear the responsibility for the activities and  
safety of your minor child. Among these responsibilities are to make sure that the bicycle which your child is riding is properly fitted to the  
child; that it is in good repair and safe operating condition; that you and your child have learned, understand and obey not only the appli-  
cable local motor vehicle, bicycle, and traffic laws, but also the common sense rules of safe and responsible bicycling. As a parent, you  
should read this manual before letting your child ride the bicycle. Please make sure that your child always wears an approved bicycle  
helmet when riding.  
05  
CORRECT FRAME SIZE  
When selecting a new bicycle, the correct choice of frame size is a very important safety consideration. Most full sized  
bicycles come in a range of frame sizes. These sizes usually refer to the distance between the center of the bottom bracket  
and the top of the frame seat tube.  
For safe and comfortable riding there should be clearance of no less than 1 - 2 inches between  
the groin area of the intended rider and the top tube of the bicycle frame, while the rider straddles the  
bicycle with both feet flat on the ground.  
The ideal clearance will vary between types of bicycles and rider preference. This makes straddling the frame when off the  
saddle easier and safer in situations such as sudden traffic stops. Women can use a men’s style bicycle to determine the  
correct size women’s model.  
The following chart and diagram will help you make the correct choice. Rider leg length refers to approximate pant inseam.  
Frame Sizing Guide  
Approximate Rider Leg  
Length  
Suggested Frame Size for  
Mountain or Hybrid Bicycle  
Suggested Frame Size for  
Racing/Touring Bicycle  
37cm / 14.5 inches  
43cm / 17 inches  
61-69cm / 24-27 inches  
66-76cm / 26-30 inches  
71-79cm / 28-31 inches  
76-84cm / 30-33 inches  
79-86cm / 31-34 inches  
81-89cm / 32-35 Inches  
86-94cm / 34-37 inches  
-
-
1-2in.  
45cm / 18 inches  
50cm / 19.5 inches  
55cm / 21.5 inches  
57cm / 22.5 inches  
60cm / 23.5 Inches  
63cm / 25 inches  
50cm / 19.5 inches  
52cm / 20.5 inches  
53-56cm / 21-22 Inches  
58-60cm / 23-23.5 inches  
06  
RIDING POSITION  
Saddle Height  
In order to obtain the most comfortable riding position and offer the  
best possible pedaling efficiency, the seat height should be set  
correctly in relation to the rider’s leg length. The correct saddle height  
should not allow leg strain from over-extension, and the hips should  
not rock from side to side when pedaling. While sitting on the bicycle  
with one pedal at its lowest point, place the ball of your foot on that  
pedal. The correct saddle height will allow the knee to be slightly  
bent in this position. If the rider then places the heel of that foot on  
the pedal, the leg should be almost straight.  
Maximum Height /  
Minimum Insertion Mark  
(Should not be visible)  
Under no circumstances should the seat post project  
from the frame beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or  
“Maximum Extension” mark. If your seat post projects  
from the frame beyond these markings, the seat post  
or frame may break, which could cause you to lose  
Arms not over-  
extended  
control and fall. Prior to your first ride, be sure to tighten the  
saddle adjusting mechanism properly. A loose saddle clamp or  
seat post binder can cause damage to the bicycle or can cause  
you to lose control and fall. Periodically check to make sure that  
the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly tightened.  
Handlebar stem  
height about the  
same as  
seat height  
Reach  
To obtain maximum comfort, the rider should not overextend his or her  
reach when riding.  
To adjust this distance, the position of the seat can be altered in  
relation to the seat pillar. (Refer to p. 27 on how to adjust the seat  
clamp.)  
Pedal at  
bottom position  
07  
Handlebar Height  
Maximum comfort is usually obtained when the handlebar height is  
equal to the height of the seat. You may wish to try different heights  
to find the most comfortable position.  
Stem Wedge Bolt  
Handlebar Binder Bolt  
Maximum Height/  
Minimum Insertion  
Mark  
Exceeds 2 1/2”  
(64mm)  
Threadless headsets and clamp-on stems are not adjustable. Please refer to page 23  
for instructions on installation.  
The stem’s “Minimum Insertion” mark must not be visible above the top of the headset.  
If the stem is extended beyond this mark, the stem may break or damage the fork’s  
steerer tube, which could cause you to lose control and fall.  
Failure to properly tighten the stem binder bolt, the handlebar binder bolt, or the bar  
end extension clamping bolts may compromise steering action, which could cause  
you to lose control and fall. Place the front wheel of the bicycle between your legs and  
attempt to twist the handlebar/stem assembly using a reasonable amount of force. If  
you can twist the stem in relation to the front wheel, turn the handlebars in relation to  
the stem, or turn the bar end extensions in relation to the handlebar, you must tighten  
the appropriate bolts accordingly.  
08  
SAFETY CHECKLIST  
Before every ride, it is important to carry out the following safety checks:  
1. Brakes  
- Ensure front and rear brakes work properly.  
- Ensure brake shoe pads are not over worn and are correctly positioned in relation to the rims.  
- Ensure brake control cables are lubricated, correctly adjusted and display no obvious wear.  
- Ensure brake control levers are lubricated and tightly secured to the handlebar.  
2. Wheels and Tires  
- Ensure tires are inflated to within the recommended limit as displayed on the tire sidewall.  
- Ensure tires have tread and have no bulges or excessive wear.  
- Ensure rims run true and have no obvious wobbles or kinks.  
- Ensure all wheel spokes are tight and not broken.  
- Check that axle nuts are tight. If your bicycle is fitted with quick release axles, make sure locking levers  
are correctly tensioned and in the closed position.  
3. Steering  
- Ensure handlebar and stem are correctly adjusted and tightened, and allow proper steering.  
- Ensure that the handlebars are set correctly in relation to the forks and the direction of travel.  
- Check that the headset locking mechanism is properly adjusted and tightened.  
- If the bicycle is fitted with handlebar end extensions, ensure they are properly positioned and tightened.  
09  
4. Chain  
- Ensure chain is oiled, clean and runs smoothly.  
- Extra care is required in wet or dusty conditions.  
5. Bearings  
- Ensure all bearings are lubricated, run freely and display no excess movement, grinding or rattling.  
- Check headset, wheel bearings, pedal bearings and bottom bracket bearings.  
6. Cranks and Pedals  
- Ensure pedals are securely tightened to the cranks.  
- Ensure cranks are securely tightened to the axle and are not bent.  
7. Derailleurs  
- Check that front and rear mechanisms are adjusted and function properly.  
- Ensure control levers are securely attached.  
- Ensure derailleurs, shift levers and control cables are properly lubricated.  
8. Frame and Fork  
- Check that the frame and fork are not bent or broken.  
- If either are bent or broken, they should be replaced.  
9. Accessories  
- Ensure that all reflectors are properly fitted and not obscured.  
- Ensure all other fittings on the bike are properly and securely fastened, and functioning.  
- Ensure the rider is wearing a helmet.  
10  
Helmets  
It is strongly advised that a properly fitting, ANSI or SNELL approved,  
bicycle safety helmet be worn at all times when riding your bicycle. In  
addition, if you are carrying a passenger in a child safety seat, they  
must also be wearing a helmet.  
The correct helmet should:  
- be comfortable  
- be lightweight  
- have good ventilation  
- fit correctly  
- cover forehead  
Always wear a properly fitted helmet which covers the forehead when riding a bicycle. Many states  
require specific safety devices. It is your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the state  
where you ride and to comply with all applicable laws, including properly equipping yourself and your  
bike as the law requires. Reflectors are important safety devices which are designed as an integral part  
of your bicycle. Federal regulations require every bicycle to be equipped with front, rear, wheel, and  
pedal reflectors. These reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect street lights and car lights in a  
way that helps you to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist. Check reflectors and their mount-  
ing brackets regularly to make sure they are clean, straight, unbroken and securely mounted. Have your  
dealer replace damaged reflectors and straighten or tighten any that are bent or loose.  
11  
Reflectors  
Your bicycle is supplied with one front (white), one rear (red), two wheel (white), and four pedal (orange)  
reflectors. (Please Note: Sidewalk bikes, 12” and under, may not have reflectors.) These are an important safety and legal  
requirement, and should remain securely fitted and in good, clean condition at all times. Periodically, inspect all reflectors,  
brackets and mounting hardware for signs of wear or damage. Replace immediately if damage is found. Some bicycles will  
require you to install your reflectors onto your bicycle. Please refer to the following section for instructions on all the types of  
bicycle reflectors.  
Fork Mount Reflector Bracket Assembly  
First insert one washer onto the hex bolt and insert hex bolt through the reflector  
bracket and then through the fork. Next, insert a second washer onto the bolt and  
thread a hex nut onto the bolt behind the fork. Tighten bolts until snug, making sure  
the reflector is in an upright position. See diagram at the right.  
Front Reflector Mount with Caliper Brake Assembly  
First remove the hex nut from the back of the fork and pull the brake from the fork.  
Insert a spacer, washer and the reflector bracket on to the caliper bolt. Insert the  
caliper bolt back into the fork and secure firmly with a concave spacer, washer and  
the hex nut. Finally, adjust the reflector such that it is in an upright position. See dia-  
gram at the right.  
12  
Seat and Handlebar Mounting Reflectors  
First attach the reflector to the reflector bracket with the reflector screw, see the top  
diagram. Next, remove the clamp screw and open the clamping reflector bracket.  
Place clamping reflector bracket around the handlebar or seatpost. If the clamp  
is too loose, insert the shim inside of the clamp. Tighten the clamp screw to hold  
reflector assembly in place, see the second diagram. Finally, adjust the reflector  
assembly in place and ensure that it is upright and facing away from the bike.  
Seatstay Mount Reflector Bracket Assembly  
First insert one washer onto the hex bolt and insert hex bolt through the reflector  
bracket and then through the seatstay bridge. Next, insert a second washer onto the  
bolt and thread a hex nut onto the bolt behind the seatstay bridge. Tighten bolts until  
snug, making sure the reflector is in an upright position. See diagram at the right.  
13  
RIDING SAFELY  
General Rules  
When riding obey the same road laws as all other road vehicles, including giving way to  
pedestrians, and stopping at red lights and stop signs.  
For further information, contact the Road Traffic Authority in your State.  
Ride predictably and in a straight line. Never ride against traffic.  
Use correct hand signals to indicate turning or stopping.  
Ride defensively. To other road users, you may be hard to see.  
Concentrate on the path ahead. Avoid pot holes, gravel, wet road markings, oil, curbs, speed  
bumps, drain grates and other obstacles.  
Cross train tracks at a 90 degree angle or walk your bicycle across.  
Expect the unexpected such as opening car doors or cars backing out of concealed driveways.  
Be extra careful at intersections and when preparing to pass other vehicles.  
Familiarize yourself with all the bicycle's features. Practice gear shifts, braking, and the use of  
toe clips and straps, if fitted.  
If you are wearing loose pants, use leg clips or elastic bands to prevent them from being caught  
in the chain. Wear proper riding attire and avoid open toe shoes.  
Don't carry packages or passengers that will interfere with your visibility or control of the bicycle.  
Don't use items that may restrict your hearing.  
Do not lock up the brakes. When braking, always apply the rear brake first, then the front. The  
front brake is more powerful and if it is not correctly applied, you may lose control and fall.  
Maintain a comfortable stopping distance from all other riders, vehicles and objects.  
Safe braking distances and forces are subject to the prevailing weather conditions.  
14  
Wet Weather  
IT IS RECOMMENDED TO NOT RIDE IN WET WEATHER  
- In wet weather you need to take extra care.  
- Brake earlier, you will take a longer distance to stop.  
- Decrease your riding speed, avoid sudden braking and take corners with additional  
caution.  
- Be more visible on the road.  
- Wear reflective clothing and use safety lights.  
- Pot holes and slippery surfaces such as line markings and train tracks all become more  
hazardous when wet.  
Night Riding  
IT IS RECOMMENDED TO NOT RIDE AT NIGHT  
- Ensure bicycle is equipped with a full set of correctly positioned and clean reflectors.  
- Refer to p. 12-13 and p. 93 of this manual.  
- Use a properly functioning lighting set comprising of a white front lamp and a red rear lamp.  
- If using battery powered lights, make sure batteries are well charged.  
- Some rear lights available have a flashing mechanism which enhances visibility.  
- Wear reflective and light colored clothing.  
- Ride at night only if necessary. Slow down and use familiar roads with street lighting, if possible.  
Pedaling Technique  
- Position the ball of your foot on the center of the pedal.  
- When pedaling, ensure your knees are parallel to the bicycle frame.  
- To absorb shock, keep your elbows slightly bent.  
- Learn to operate the gears properly. (Refer to p. 17-19)  
15  
Hill Technique  
- Gear down before a climb and continue gearing down as required to maintain pedaling speed.  
- If you reach the lowest gear and are struggling, stand up on your pedals. You will then obtain more power from  
each pedal revolution.  
- On the descent, use the high gears to avoid rapid pedaling.  
- Do not exceed a comfortable speed; maintain control and take additional care.  
Cornering Technique  
Brake slightly before cornering and prepare to lean your body into the corner. Maintain the inside pedal at the 12 o'clock  
position and slightly point the inside knee in the direction you are turning. Keep the other leg straight, don't pedal through  
fast or tight corners.  
Please refer to pages 103-4 for braking techniques and pages 104-7 for gear shifting techniques.  
Rules for Children  
To avoid accidents, teach children good riding skills with an emphasis on safety from an early age. Children should be super-  
vised by an adult.  
1. Always wear a properly fitted helmet.  
2. Do not play in driveways or the road.  
3. Do not ride on busy streets.  
4. Do not ride at night.  
5. Obey all the traffic laws, especially stop signs and red lights.  
6. Be aware of other road vehicles behind and nearby.  
7. Before entering a street: Stop, look right, left, and right again for traffic. If there's no traffic, proceed into the roadway.  
8. If riding downhill, be extra careful. Slow down using the brakes and maintain control of the steering.  
9. Never take your hands off the handlebars, or your feet off the pedals when riding downhill.  
The Consumer Protection Safety Commission advises that the riding of small wheel diameter  
bicycles at excessive speeds can lead to instability and is not recommended.  
Children should be made aware of all possible riding hazards and correct riding behavior before they take to the streets.  
- Do not leave it up to trial and error.  
16  
GEARS - HOW TO OPERATE  
Drivetrain  
Derailleur Control  
Cable  
Freewheel  
Cogs  
Front Derailleur  
Derailleur Gears  
Most multi-speed bicycles today are equipped with what are known  
as derailleur gears. They operate using a system of levers and mecha-  
nisms to move the drive chain between different sized driving gears  
or cogs. The purpose of gears is to let you maintain a constant, steady  
pedaling pace under varying conditions. This means your riding will  
be less  
tiring without unnecessary straining up hills or fast pedaling down  
hill. Bicycles come with a variety of gear configurations from 5 to 27  
speeds. A 5-6 speed bicycle will have a single front chainwheel, a  
rear derailleur, and 5 or 6 cogs on the rear hub. Bicycles with more  
gears will also have a front derailleur, a front chainwheel with  
2-3 cogs, and up to 9 cogs on the rear hub.  
Front Chainwheels  
Crank Arm  
Pedal  
Guide Pulley  
Rear Derailleur  
Operating Principles  
No matter how many gears, the operating principles are the same.  
The front derailleur is operated by the left shift lever and the rear  
derailleur by the right. To operate you must be pedaling forward. You  
can not shift derailleur gears when you are stopped or when pedaling  
backwards. Before shifting ease up on your pedaling pressure. For  
a smooth gear change when approaching a hill, shift to a lower gear  
BEFORE your pedaling speed slows down too much. When coming  
to a stop, shift to a lower gear first so it will be easier when you start  
riding again. If, after selecting a new gear position, you hear a slight  
rubbing noise from the front or rear gears, gently adjust the appropriate  
shifter using the barrel adjusters until the noise goes away. For opti-  
mal performance and extended chain life, it is recommended that you  
avoid using the extreme combinations of gear positions (diagram p.  
18) for extended periods.  
17  
1
1
2
2
3
3
4
4
5
5
6
6
1
These combinations are  
NOT RECOMMENDED  
for optimal performance.  
These combinations are  
NOT RECOMMENDED  
for optimal performance.  
2
1
3
2
Middle  
Low  
High  
High  
Low  
Recommended Chainwheel/Rear Sprocket Gear Combinations  
Hand Grip Shifters  
Some bicycles are now being equipped with a shifting  
Front Low Gear  
Rear Low Gear  
mechanism called Grip Shift™, which is built into the handlebar grips  
and does not make use of separate levers. The actuating mechanism  
is built into the inside part of the grip that the web of the thumb and  
index finger closes around. To select a lower gear, twist the right shift-  
er toward you to engage a larger rear cog. You can shift one gear at  
a time by moving the Grip Shift™ one click, or through multiple gears  
by continued twisting. By twisting the left shifter forward or away from  
you, a smaller chainwheel can be selected. To select a higher gear,  
twist the right shifter forward or away from you to engage a smaller  
rear cog. To engage a larger front chainwheel, twist the left shifter  
towards you. Single shifts can be achieved by twisting one click at a  
time and multiple shifts by larger twists.  
Front High Gear  
Rear High Gear  
18  
Thumb Shifters (Top Mounted)  
Left hand lever  
Right hand lever  
Most mountain style bicycles are equipped with shifters  
mounted on the top of the handlebars and operated by the thumbs.  
To select a lower, easier gear, shift to a bigger rear cog and a small  
chainwheel. Pull the left shifter back to operate the front derailleur,  
and push the right shifter forward to operate the rear derailleur. To  
select a higher, harder gear, shift to a smaller rear cog and a larger  
chainwheel. Push the left shifter forward for the front, and pull the  
right lever back for the rear.  
Top Gear  
(Harder)  
Bottom Gear  
(Easier)  
Small rear sprocket  
Large chainwheel  
Large rear sprocket  
Small chainwheel  
Left hand lever forward  
Right hand lever back  
Left hand lever back  
Right hand lever forward  
Below the Bar Shifters  
Many mountain style bicycles now use a shift lever arrangement  
mounted on the underside of the handlebars, which use two levers  
operated by the thumb and index finger. To select a lower gear push  
the larger (lower) right shifter with your thumb to engage a larger rear  
cog. One firm push shifts the chain one cog, continuing to push will  
move the chain over multiple cogs. Pulling the smaller (upper) left  
shifter with your index finger moves the chain from a larger to a smaller  
chainwheel. To select a higher gear pull the smaller (upper) right  
lever with your index finger to engage a smaller rear cog. Pushing  
the larger (lower) left lever with your thumb will move the chain from a  
smaller to a larger chainwheel. Please refer to page 98 for additional  
instructions in “How Things Work”.  
Left hand lever  
Right hand lever  
19  
BICYCLE CARE  
Basic Maintenance  
The following procedures will help you maintain your bicycle for years of enjoyable riding.  
For painted frames, dust the surface and remove any loose dirt with a dry cloth. To clean, wipe with a damp cloth  
soaked in a mild detergent mixture. Dry with a cloth and polish with car or furniture wax. Use soap and water to clean  
plastic parts and rubber tires. Chrome plated bikes should be wiped over with a rust preventative fluid.  
Store your bicycle under shelter. Avoid leaving it in the rain or exposed to corrosive materials.  
Riding on the beach or in coastal areas exposes your bicycle to salt which is very corrosive. Wash your bicycle  
frequently and wipe or spray all unpainted parts with an anti-rust treatment. Make sure wheel rims are dry so braking  
performance is not affected. After rain, dry your bicycle and apply anti-rust treatment.  
If the hub and bottom bracket bearings of your bicycle have been submerged in water, they should be taken out and  
re-greased. This will prevent accelerated bearing deterioration.  
If paint has become scratched or chipped to the metal, use touch up paint to prevent rust. Clear nail polish can also be  
used as a preventative measure.  
Regularly clean and lubricate all moving parts, tighten components and make adjustments as required. (Refer to Parts  
4 and 5 of this manual for further details).  
The use of alloy components and BED, SATIN and TITANIUM surface treatments minimizes the number of places  
where rust can surface.  
20  
Storage  
Keep your bicycle in a dry location away from the weather and the  
sun. Ultraviolet rays may cause paint to fade or rubber and plastic  
parts to crack. Before storing your bicycle for a long period of time,  
clean and lubricate all components and wax the frame. Deflate the  
tires to half pressure and hang the bicycle off the ground. Don't store  
near electric motors as ozone emissions may effect the rubber and  
paint. Don't cover with plastic as "sweating” will result which may  
cause rusting. Please notice that your bicycle warranty does not  
cover paint damage, rust, corrosion, dry rot or theft.  
Security  
It is advisable that the following steps be taken to prepare for and help  
prevent possible theft.  
1. Maintain a record of the bicycle’s serial number, generally located  
on the frame underneath the bottom bracket.  
2. Register the bicycle with the local police.  
3. Invest in a high quality bicycle lock that will resist hack saws and  
bolt cutters. Always lock your bicycle to an immovable object if it  
is left unattended.  
21  
DERAILLEUR GEARED BICYCLES  
Includes 20", 24” and 26" Wheel Mountain Bikes  
Assembly is the same for men’s  
and women’s bikes.  
We recommend that you consult a bicycle specialist  
if you have doubts or concerns as to your experi-  
ence or ability to properly assembly, repair, or main-  
tain your bicycle.  
Getting Started  
Open the carton from the top and remove the bicycle. Remove the  
straps and protective wrapping from the bicycle. Inspect the bicycle  
and all accessories and parts for possible shortages. It is recommended  
that the threads and all moving parts in the parts package be lubricated  
prior to installation. Do not discard packing materials until assembly is  
complete to insure that no required parts are accidentally discarded.  
Assemble your bicycle following the steps that pertain to your model.  
Note: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style components  
than the ones illustrated.  
Handlebars  
Binder Bolt  
Remove the protective cap from the handlebar stem wedge and loosen  
the Allen key bolt using the 6mm Allen key. Some models may use a  
13mm hexagonal bolt instead of an Allen key bolt. Place the handlebar  
stem into the top of the head tube, ensuring that all cables are free of  
tangles. Tighten the stem bolt observing the minimum insertion mark and  
checking that the forks and the handlebars are facing forward. Check  
the headset for smooth rotation and that the top nut is secured tightly.  
Loosen the 6mm Binder Bolt and rotate the handlebar forward so the  
levers are at a 45 degree angle below the handlebar. Retighten the  
Binder Bolt to ensure the handlebar does not rotate in the stem.  
Stem Bolt  
Top Nut  
Minimum Insertion  
Mark  
Warning: Over tightening the stem bolt or headset  
assembly may cause damage to the bicycle and/or  
injury to the rider.  
Wedge  
Head Tube  
22  
NOTE: Comfort Series (CS) bicycles may be equipped with a stem that has an adjustable angle.  
In addition to the normal assembly, these stems will require angling the stem to the desired position,  
and securely tightening the 6mm angle bolt located in front of the stem bolt.  
Failure to do this may cause loss of steering control.  
Tightening/Preloading Aheadset  
Compression Bolt  
Top Cap  
Handlebar  
Stem Installation (Should be assembled on the  
bike already)  
Stem Cap  
Bolts  
1. Insert the compression bolt through the top  
cap and the stem. Begin threading into the  
star nut.  
2.Tighten compression bolt so it removes all  
play from the fork, but allows the fork to rotate  
smoothly.  
3. Align the stem with the front wheel. Tighten  
the stem clamp bolts to secure the stem to the  
steerer tube.  
Stem Clamp Bolts  
Spacer  
Stem Cap  
Headset Wedge  
Bearing Race  
Bearing Dust Cover  
Bearing Retainer  
Star Nut  
(Inside Steerer Tube)  
Installed  
by  
factory  
Handlebar Installation  
Upper Headset Cup  
1. Remove the stem cap bolts and stem cap.  
2. Insert handlebar into the stem cap.  
3. Tighten the stem cap bolts equally. Note  
the distance between the stem and stem cap:  
It should be equal on the top and bottom of the  
stem cap. A must be equal distance.  
Headtube  
Lower Headset Cup  
Bearing Retainer  
fork  
Bearing Dust Cover  
Headset Crown Race  
23  
Sunken Stem Bolt System  
1. Remove the protective shipping cap from the stem wedge.  
2. Remove the Stem Plug from the stem. Loosen the Stem Bolt  
with a 6mm allen wrench.  
3. Insert the stem into the headtube of the bicycle. Ensure that the  
Minimum Insertion Line is below the top nut of the headset.  
4. Align the stem and handlebar so it is in line with the front wheel.  
5. Tighten the Stem Bolt with the 6mm allen wrench. Reinsert the  
Stem Plug into the stem.  
WARNING: MINIMUM INSERTION LINE MUST BE HIDDEN WITHIN  
THE HEADTUBE OF THE BICYCLE.  
If the stem is not inserted into the top nut to at least the “Minimum Insertion” mark, it is  
possible to over-tighten the stem bolt and damage the fork steerer tube. If these instruc-  
tions are not followed, it could cause an unsafe condition and risk injury to the rider.  
Check steering tightness prior to riding by straddling the front wheel. Try turning the han-  
dlebar. If you can turn it without turning the front wheel, the stem is too loose. Re-align  
the handlebar with the front wheel and re-tighten the stem bolt.  
24  
Shifter binder bolt  
(2.5 Allen key)  
Brake lever binder bolt  
(5mm Allen key)  
Bar end (5mm Allen key)  
1.  
Shifters  
Tighten all bolts that clamp the shifters, brake levers and bar ends to  
the handlebar using a 5mm Allen key or Phillips head screwdriver.  
(Figure 1) Handlebar with Grip Shifter.  
(Figure 2) Top mounted thumb shifter.  
Shift binder  
bolt (Phillips  
head or 5mm  
Allen key)  
Failure to properly tighten clamping bolts may  
cause sudden movement of the component  
resulting in loss of steering control.  
2.  
25  
Forks  
Steering Tube  
There are two different types of forks that vary in styles and  
dimensions. One type is a rigid fork (Figure 1) consisting of  
stationary tubing with curved blades. The other type is a  
suspension fork (Figure 2) consisting of stanchion tubes  
riding on elastomers or springs inside of a straight fork leg.  
This mechanism acts as a shock absorber with a specified  
amount of travel that varies between models. Some suspen-  
sion forks are not adjustable and are very difficult to disas-  
semble. If service is needed on a suspension fork, consult a  
professional bicycle repair technician.  
Brake Boss  
Drop-out  
Crown  
Blade  
Do not attempt to disassemble a suspension  
fork yourself. Consult a professional bicycle  
repair technician.  
1.  
Check the tightness of the headset and the fork. Rotate the  
fork checking for smoothness. If it feels like the fork is  
binding, then an adjustment will need to be made to the  
headset. Move the fork in a push/pull manner checking for  
tightness. If any play is detected, loosen the top nut, adjust  
the bearing cup, and retighten the top nut. Recheck the  
rotation and tightness. If necessary, readjust until a smooth  
rotation is achieved without backward or forward move-  
ment. If your bike is equipped with a suspension fork, check  
that the fork compresses and rebounds smoothly. To do  
this, place the fork dropouts against the ground, push and  
release the handlebar. The fork will generally compress 1-2”  
and rebound quickly. Most elastomer type forks will gradually  
soften with use.  
Brake Bridge  
Brake Boss  
Crown  
Drop-out  
Steering Tube  
Fork Blade  
2.  
26  
Seat and Seat Post  
Attach the seat to the seat post by loosening the nuts on the seat clamp. Insert the  
tapered end of the seat post into the seat clamp until it is at the top of the clamp.  
Partially tighten the nuts on the seat clamp until the seat is snug, but can still be  
turned. Insert the seat assembly into the frame of the bicycle and adjust the seat to  
the proper height. The seat post must be inserted to at least the “Minimum Inser-  
tion” line marked on the seat post. If equipped with a quick release skewer; tighten  
the adjusting nut by hand and move the quick release lever to the closed position.  
You should feel considerable resistance while moving the lever. If not, re-open and  
re-tighten the lever, then move it to the closed position so it is in line with the frame  
as pictured. If equipped with a binder clamp; Insure the lip on the binder clamp is  
fitted completely against the top of the seat tube of the frame. With the seat post  
inserted, tighten the binder bolt securely. Position the top of the seat parallel with  
the ground. Push the front of the seat up and down to firmly mesh the serrations  
together. The serrations must mesh completely together to insure a stabilized rid-  
ing position. Securely tighten the nut on the seat clamp. If there is a nut on both  
sides of the clamp, tighten each one by alternating from one to the other. Check for  
tightness by twisting the seat from side to side, and from front to back. If the seat  
moves at the seat clamp or quick release, reposition and re-tighten the appropriate  
clamping mechanism.  
Seat  
Clamp  
Seat  
Post  
Quick  
Release  
Adjusting  
Nut  
Attach  
Seat Here  
Boot  
NOTE: Comfort Series (CS) bicycles may be equipped with a suspension  
seat post (See Diagram-bottom left). Some suspension posts can be adjusted for stiff-  
ness using the preload adjusting screw. Turning the 6mm Allen screw Clockwise will  
decrease travel and make the suspension stiffer, while turning the 6mm Allen screw  
Counter-clockwise will increase travel and make the suspension less rigid.  
Note: In addition to normal assembly, please be aware that the preload adjusting  
screw must be flush with the bottom of the post. Some bicycles may come equipped  
with a shim that should be positioned over the lower half of the seat post and inserted  
into the seat tube of the frame. Failure to do this may cause irreparable damage.  
Minimum  
Insertion  
Mark  
Insert this  
end into  
frame  
The seat post must be inserted so that the minimum insertion  
mark cannot be seen. The quick release mechanism must be  
tightened securely to prevent a sudden shift of the seat when  
riding. Failure to do this may cause loss of bicycle control.  
Preload adjusting  
screw on underside  
27  
Pedals & Crank Set  
Look for the letters “R” for right, and “L” for left, stamped on each pedal  
spindle. Start each pedal spindle by hand to avoid stripping the threads.  
Tighten with a 15mm narrow open ended wrench. Note that the right  
hand pedal attaches to the chainwheel side crank arm with a right-hand  
(clockwise) thread. The left pedal attaches to the other crank arm and has  
a left-hand (counter-clockwise) thread. It is very important that you check  
the crank set for correct adjustment and tightness before riding your  
bicycle. New cranks may become loose with initial use, refer to p. 83-86  
for proper crank set adjustment and maintenance. Once the pedals have  
been installed, remove the dust caps from the center of each crank arm.  
Using a 14mm socket wrench, tighten the spindle nuts securely (approx.  
350 in. lbs.) and replace the dust caps.  
Dust  
Cap  
Attachment of an incorrect pedal into a crank arm can  
strip pedal threads and cause irreparable damage. Before  
your first ride, please check to insure your pedals are  
attached correctly.  
28  
Front Wheel  
Quick Release  
Axle  
Adjusting  
Nut  
Quick  
Release  
Lever  
Check the wheel hub before attaching it to the fork by rotating the  
threaded axle. It should be smooth with no lateral movement. Insert  
the front wheel into the fork dropouts. Tighten the wheel nuts using  
the appropriate 14mm or 15mm wrench. Spin the wheel checking for  
trueness. Some bicycles have wheel axles that incorporate a Quick  
Release (QR) mechanism. This allows easy wheel removal without  
the need for tools. The mechanism uses a long bolt with an adjusting  
nut on one end, and a lever operating a cam-action tensioner on the  
other. If the wheel is fitted with a Quick Release type axle, turn the  
adjusting nut so that the locking lever is moved to the closed position  
with a firm action. At the halfway closed position of the quick release  
lever, you should start to feel some resistance to this motion. Do not  
tighten the quick release by using the quick release lever like a wing  
nut. If the quick release lever is moved to the closed position with no  
resistance, clamping strength is insufficient. Move the quick release  
lever to the open position, tighten the quick release adjusting nut,  
and return the quick release lever to the closed position.  
Spring  
Hub  
Axle  
Hub  
Closed Position  
Correct Quick Release Axle Setting  
1. To set, turn the lever to the open position so that the curved  
part faces away from the bicycle.  
2. While holding the lever in one hand, tighten the adjusting nut  
until it stops.  
Open Position  
3. Pivot the lever towards the closed position. When the lever is  
halfway closed, there must be firm resistance to turn it  
beyond that point. If resistance is not firm, open the lever and  
tighten the adjusting nut in a clockwise direction.  
4. Continue to pivot the lever all the way to the closed position  
so that the curved part of the lever faces the bicycle.  
29  
5. The wheel is tightly secured when the serrated surfaces of the  
quick release clamping parts actually begin to cut into the  
bicycle frame/fork surfaces.  
6. Note that the same procedure applies when operating a quick  
release seat post binder mechanism.  
7. Turn the bicycle upright using the kickstand to support it.  
If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping your  
fingers around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever does  
not leave a clear imprint in the palm of you hand, the tension is  
insufficient. Open the lever, turn the adjusting, and try again.  
Continue until the QR lever closes properly. Secondary retention  
devices are not a substitute for a correct quick release adjust-  
ment. Failure to properly adjust the quick release mechanism  
can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage, which could cause  
you to lose control and fall, resulting in serous injury or death.  
Cantilever  
Brakes  
1. Install the cable into  
Front Brake  
Determine which type of brake your bike is equipped with and refer to  
the appropriate assembly instructions. For more information on brake  
adjustment and maintenance, refer to p. 77-80.  
Cable  
End  
Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Link Wire  
If fitted with cantilever type brakes, insert the brake cable into the link  
wire lead, and notch the cable end into the slot of the left brake arm.  
Loosen the anchor bolt on the right brake arm and slide the brake cable  
under the tabbed washer. Squeeze both brake arms together so the  
brake shoes hit the rim, pull all slack out of the brake cable, and tighten  
the anchor bolt. With the cable fitted, the straddle holder should sit  
10-20mm above the reflector bracket. Adjust the brake shoes using a  
10mm wrench so that they are parallel with the rim and are positioned  
1-2mm away from the rim. Several adjustments may be necessary to  
achieve the correct brake position.  
2. Set the cable into  
2
1
30  
3. Temporarily tighten the cable so  
that the link wire is at the position in  
the illustration.  
5. Secure one of the shoes at a time.  
The adjustment of the shoe clearance is  
not necessary at this time.  
Shoe fixing nut tightening torque:  
7.84 - 8.82 Nm (70 - 78 in. lbs.)  
3
Link Wire  
10 mm wrench  
5 mm Allen key  
Touching  
Cable Anchor Bolt  
Spring tension  
adjustment screw  
1 mm  
6. If balance adjustment is necessary,  
adjust with the spring tension  
adjustment screw.  
Cable Casing Holder  
Cut off any unneces-  
sary cable, attach an end  
cap, and hook it onto the  
notched part of the nut  
which secures the shoe.  
1
2
4. Turn the spring tension  
adjustment screw so that the link  
wire comes to a position directly  
below the cable casing holder.  
1
2
End cap  
1
2
1
2
31  
Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Straddle Cable  
The length of the straddle cable, the height of the straddle hanger,  
and the brake pad-to-caliper arm position all have an effect on brak-  
ing power. Generally, the straddle cable bridge is set low and close  
to the tire for maximum braking force. The straddle cable should be  
high enough, however, to adequately clear the tire (and any debris  
that may stick to the tire) or to fit over the front reflector hanger. In the  
event of brake cable failure, the front reflector hanger would prevent  
the straddle cable from catching in the tire and locking up the front  
wheel. The straddle cable length (when adjustable) is set to transfer  
as much force to the brake pads as possible. For the most efficient  
transfer of force, the straddle cable and the line between the cantilever  
pivot and the cable anchor should form a right angle (90 degrees). If  
the force is not at a right angle, part of the force gets wasted in pulling  
on the brake post, which has no effect on braking.  
Straddle  
Cable  
Brake  
Brake Cable  
Straddle Hanger  
Straddle Cable  
Pinch Bolt  
o
90  
Cable  
Anchor  
Caliper Arm  
Pivot  
V-Style Brakes  
If not already assembled, take the brake noodle from the parts box  
and slide the cable through the larger opening. The cable housing  
will then seat into the end of the noodle. Slide the cable through the  
cable lead on the end of the left brake arm, this will cause the noodle  
to fit into the lead. Slip the brake cable boot over the cable and posi-  
tion it between both brake arms. Next, loosen the 5mm anchor bolt  
at the end of the right brake arm and slide the cable under the retain-  
ing washer. Pull the slack out of the cable making sure a distance of  
39mm or more remains between the end of the lead and the start of  
the anchor bolt. Once the cable is secured to the brake arms, engage  
the brake lever several times, checking the position of the brake  
shoes at the rim. The brake shoes should be 1mm away from the  
rim when in a relaxed position. When the brake lever is engaged, the  
brake shoe should hit the rim flush (never the tire) with the front brake  
pad touching the rim slightly before the rear. This is called “toeing-in”  
your brake shoe. If this position is not achieved, adjustments to the  
brake shoe are required. Loosen the brake shoe hardware and reposi-  
tion the brake shoe. It may take several shoe and cable adjustments  
before the required position is accomplished.  
Brake  
Cable  
Boot  
Outer  
Cable  
Lead  
Brake  
Noodle  
Anchor  
Bolt  
Brake  
Arm  
Pivot  
Bolt  
Tension  
Screw  
Brake  
Shoe  
32  
2. While holding the shoe against the rim, adjust the  
amount of shoe protrusion by interchanging the  
position of the B washers (i.e. 6 mm and 3 mm) so that  
dimension A is kept at 39 mm or more.  
V - Brake  
If fitted with V-Brakes, insert the brake body  
into the center spring hole in the frame mount-  
ing boss, and then secure the brake body to the  
frame with the link fixing bolt.  
1.  
39 mm or more  
A
5 mm Allen key  
3 mm washer B  
6 mm washer B  
Shoe fixing nut  
Washer  
Link  
Spring  
fixing  
hole  
bolt  
Washer  
Washer A  
Shoe fixing link  
Washer A  
Stopper pin  
33  
3. While holding the shoe against the  
5. Adjust the balance with the spring  
rim, tighten the shoe fixing nut.  
tension adjustment screws.  
shoe fixing nut  
5 mm Allen key  
1mm  
1 mm 1 mm  
Spring tension  
adjustment screw  
Spring tension  
adjustment screw  
4. Pass the inner cable through the inner  
cable lead. Set the cable with a clearance  
of 1mm between each brake pad and the  
rim, tighten the cable fixing bolt.  
6. Depress the brake lever about 10 times as  
far as the grip to check that everything is  
operating correctly and that the shoe  
clearance is correct before using the brakes.  
Depress about  
10 times  
5 mm Allen key  
1mm 1mm  
34  
Check your Brakes  
Press each brake lever to make sure that there is no binding and that the brake pads press hard enough on the rims to  
stop the bike. The brake pads should be adjusted so they are 1 mm to 2 mm away from the rim when the brakes are  
not applied. Brake pads should be centered on the rim and “toed-in” so the rear portion of each brake pad is about 0.5  
- 1.0 mm farther from the rim than the front portion of the brake pad.  
Brake pad aligned with the rim surface  
Pad and rim should be parallel.  
Direction of rim  
rotation  
1- 2 mm  
0.5 - 1.0 mm  
Do not ride the bicycle until the brakes are functioning  
properly. To test, apply the brakes while trying to push  
the bike forward to make sure they will stop the bicycle.  
Never ride a bicycle that is not functioning properly.  
Do not lock up brakes. Sudden or excessive application  
of the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars,  
causing serious injury or death. When braking, always  
apply the rear brake first, then the front.  
35  
Disc Brakes  
Brake Cable  
Housing  
If fitted with a front disc brake, the components should already  
be attached. However, please check all connections before  
attempting to ride the bicycle. Secure tightly the 6 bolts that  
hold the disc to the front wheel hub and the 2 bolts that hold  
the brake mechanism to the fork. Insert the front wheel into the  
fork dropouts ensuring that the disc fits into the brake mecha-  
nism between the enclosed brake pads. Secure the front wheel  
to the bicycle by tightening the quick release mechanism and  
clamping the lever to the closed position. Please refer to sec-  
tion 6 for further instruction on quick release mechanisms.  
Barrel Adjuster  
Lock Nut  
Brake Lever  
Cable  
Insertion  
Slot  
Next, attach the cable to the brake lever by inserting the cable  
end into the cable end holder after the barrel adjuster and lock  
nut slots have been aligned with the cable end holder. After  
the cable is secured to the lever, rotate the barrel adjuster and  
lock nut so the slots no longer line up. Ensure the cable hous-  
ing seats appropriately into the end of the barrel adjuster and  
check for any kinks or damage.  
Brake Cable  
Cable End  
Holder  
Brake Type  
Selector  
“C” Clip  
Rotating Rod  
Caliper  
Slide the exposed brake cable through the rotating rod located  
on the caliper body and seat the housing into the same stop.  
Insert the cable into the spring and spring boot.  
Mounting  
Bolt with  
spacers  
Actuating Arm  
Next, slide the cable through the cable anchor and pull all the  
slack out. Secure the cable in place by tightening the bolts that  
comprise the anchor assembly. Some disc brakes will have a  
centering devise while others are a free-floating mechanism.  
If your caliper body is equipped with centering bolts, apply the  
brake lever after the cable has been connected. While engaging  
the lever, tighten the centering bolts securely. This will center  
the caliper body on the disc.  
Brake Pads  
Caliper  
Mounting  
Bolt with  
spacers  
DISC GETS HOT! Severe injury could result from  
contact with the hot disc! Mind your legs, as well  
as your hands.  
Cable Anchor  
Bolt  
36  
Centering Bolt  
Hub  
Fork Leg  
Disc Mounting  
Bolts  
Brake Cable  
Housing  
Rotating  
Rod  
Caliper  
Body  
Disc  
Cable Boot  
with Spring  
inside  
Centering Bolt (inside)  
Actuating  
Arm  
Cable Anchor  
Bolt  
Fork Drop Out  
Caliper Mounting  
Bolts with spacers  
Quick Release  
lever  
These brakes require breaking in! Ride and use the brakes gently for 13  
miles before using the brakes in downhill conditions, for sudden stops,  
or any other serious braking. Please be aware that your brake system will  
change in performance throughout the wear-in process. The disc brake  
should be cleaned before the first ride using rubbing alcohol. NEVER use oil  
or similar products to clean your disc brake system.  
37  
Derailleur  
Freewheel  
Outer side of Top Gear  
Although the front and rear derailleurs are initially adjusted at  
the factory, you will need to inspect and readjust both before  
riding the bicycle.  
Pulley Adjustment  
Screw  
Rear Derailleur  
Begin by shifting the rear shifter to largest number indicated,  
disconnect the cable from the rear derailleur cable anchor bolt,  
and place the chain on the smallest sprocket.  
Guide Pulley  
Adjust the High limit screw so the guide pulley and the  
smallest sprocket are lined up vertically. Reconnect the cable,  
pull out any slack, and retighten the anchor bolt securely. Shift  
through the gears, making sure each gear achieved is done  
quietly and without hesitation. If necessary, use the barrel  
adjuster to fine tune each gear by turning it the direction you  
want the chain to go. For example, turning clockwise will loos-  
en the cable tension and move the chain away from the wheel,  
while turning counter-clockwise will tighten cable  
Adjustment  
Screws  
Tension Pulley  
SIS Cable Adjuster  
tension and direct the chain towards the wheel. Shift the rear  
shifter to the gear one and place the chain on the largest cog.  
Adjust the Low limit screw in quarter turn increments until the  
guide pulley and the largest cog are aligned vertically. Again,  
shift through each gear several times, checking that each gear  
is achieved smoothly. It may take several attempts before the  
rear derailleur and cable is adjusted properly.  
High Gear  
Adjustment Screw  
Low Gear  
Adjustment  
Screw  
H
L
Ensure all bolts are secured tightly and the chain  
does not fall off in either direction.  
Barrel  
Adjuster  
Rear Derailleur Side View  
38  
Front Derailleur  
Low Adjusting Screw  
Shift both shifters to the smallest number indicated and place  
the chain on the corresponding cog and chainwheel. Discon-  
nect the front derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt.  
Check the position of the front derailleur; it should be parallel  
with the outer chainwheel and clear the largest chainwheel by  
1-3mm when fully engaged.  
High Adjusting  
Screw  
Cable Anchor Bolt  
Chainguide  
clearance of  
1-3mm  
With the chain on the smallest chainwheel in front and the  
largest cog in back, adjust the Low limit screw so the chain is  
centered in the front derailleur cage. Reconnect the cable, pull  
any slack out, and tighten the anchor bolt securely. Shift the  
front shifter to the largest chainwheel. If the chain does not go  
onto the largest chainwheel, turn the high limit screw in 1/4 turn  
increments counter-clockwise until the chain engages the largest  
chainwheel. If the chain falls off the largest chainwheel, and  
into the pedals, you will need to turn the High limit screw in 1/4  
turn increments clockwise until the chain no longer falls off.  
Shift through every gear, using the barrel adjusters to fine tune  
each transition. The barrel adjuster for the front derailleur is  
located on the front shifter where the cable comes out of the  
shifter. Clockwise will loosen the cable tension and direct the  
chain closer to the frame while counter-clockwise will tighten  
the cable tension and direct the chain away from the frame.  
Outer Chainguide  
Inner Chainguard  
Do not ride a bicycle that is not shifting proper-  
ly. Overlooking proper adjustments may cause  
irreparable damage to the bicycle and/or bodily  
injury. Never move the shifter while pedaling  
backward, nor pedal backwards after having  
moved the shifter. This could jam the chain  
and cause serious damage to the bicycle  
and/or rider.  
39  
Dual Suspension  
Dual Suspension bikes (DS) are equipped with a front fork as  
well as a rear suspension generally located below the seat.  
The piston works in conjunction with a spring to allow the bike  
to rotate on a pivot point. Ensure all attaching hardware is  
secured and there is no lateral movement of the rear triangle.  
The amount of Rear Suspension travel can be adjusted by  
turning the adjusting plate. Clockwise will increase spring  
tension and decrease travel, while turning counter-clockwise  
will decrease spring tension and increase travel. There are  
many different types of suspension systems-too many to deal  
with individually in this manual.  
There must be enough tension on the spring to hold  
the spring plate in place. Failure to do this may cause  
the mechanism to fail. Failure to maintain, check and  
properly adjust the suspension system may result in  
suspension malfunction, which can cause you to lose  
control and fall. Changing suspension adjustment  
can change the handling and braking characteristics  
of you bicycle. Never change suspension adjustment  
unless you are thoroughly familiar with the suspen-  
sion system, manufacturer’s instructions and recom-  
mendations, and always check for changes in the  
performance of your bicycle by taking a careful test  
ride in a hazard free area. If your bike has suspen-  
sion equipment, the increased speed you may develop  
also increases your risk. When braking, the front of a  
suspended bike dips. You could lose control and fall  
if your skill is not up to handling this system. Get to  
know how to handle your suspension system safely  
Spring  
Spring plate  
Anchor bolt  
Adjusting plate  
Piston  
before trying any downhill or very fast biking.  
40  
Rear Pivots  
3
2
The pivot assembly is a simple mechanism that allows  
the rear triangle to move up and down in combination  
with a rear suspension. Size, shape, and compounds  
will vary between models; however, operating principles  
are the same. A shaft will pivot inside of two bushings  
secured in place with bolts. Pivots should be kept clean  
and free from grime and should be disassembled and re-  
greased at least once every riding season. Please note  
the drive side crank arm must be removed from the spin-  
dle before attempting to work on the pivot. Some models  
have two, small (2.5mm) Allen bolts on the underside of  
the bottom bracket shell. These must be removed before  
attempting to disassemble the pivot. After disassembling  
and cleaning, the shaft of the pivot assembly should be  
lightly coated with lithium-based grease, as well as the  
bushings and the threads of the attaching hardware.  
Please remember: Never use WD-40™ to grease com-  
ponents. It is a degreaser that will not provide required  
lubrication and has a tendency to attract dust.  
1
1.  
2.  
3.  
Attaching Bolt  
Bushing  
Shaft  
2
1
3
1
3
1.  
2.  
3.  
Pivot Assembly  
Bottom Bracket Cup & Lockring  
Rear Triangle  
2
41  
Accessories  
If your bike is supplied with a water bottle and cage, attach the  
cage to the bicycle using the Allen bolts provided.  
Some bikes come equipped with a saddle bag or frame bag.  
The saddle bag installs under the seat with the zipper facing  
the rear wheel. Undo the straps that wrap around the bag,  
thread them through the rails underneath the seat and secure  
around the bag. The smaller strap wraps around the seat  
post. Frame bags install at the apex of the top and seat tubes.  
Secure the straps around each tube.  
Saddle Bag  
Reflector  
Frame Bag  
Reflector  
NOTE: The frame bag straps must not bind the cables. The  
straps must go around the frame only.  
Other: Some 20” and 24” model bicycles come with a rear  
derailleur guard to protect the rear derailleur from damage. To  
install, remove the the rear wheel axle nut on the drive side,  
install the rear derailleur guard over the axle with the U-shaped  
guard pointing down, and retighten the axle nut. The guard will  
sit between the frame and the axle nut.  
Reflector  
Water bottle and cage  
Reflectors  
Attach the white reflector to the front reflector bracket and  
secure to the fork or handlebar using the hardware provided.  
Attach the red reflector to the rear reflector bracket and secure  
to the frame or seat post, depending on the bracket style, with  
the hardware provided.  
Tighten both rear wheel axle nuts or the  
quick release mechanism securely. Failure  
to do this may cause the rear wheel to  
dislodge from the frame dropouts resulting  
in serious damage or injury.  
42  
figure 1  
Fenders  
Front Fender  
The front fender is mounted at the fork crown. There are two  
ways in which to mount your front fender. The first is the caliper  
brake mounting system (see figure 1), and the second is the  
10mm nut and bolt system (see figure 2). Identify the mounting  
system used on your bicycle and follow the given instructions for  
that particular type of mounting system.  
1. Caliper Brake Mounting System  
First remove the front wheel from your bicycle. Remove the  
hex nut from the caliper brake bolt on the rear of the fork,  
and slide the brake assembly from the fork. Place the fend-  
er assembly onto the fork making sure the attachment holes  
and fender bracket holes line up. Reattach the caliper  
brake making sure that the brake arms are on each side of  
the fender. Tighten the bolt until secure.  
2. 10mm Nut and Bolt Mounting System  
figure 2  
First remove the front wheel from your bicycle. Place the  
fender assembly onto the fork making sure the attachment  
holes and fender bracket holes line up. Attach the fender  
with the 10mm hex bolt and nut. Tighten the bolt until secure.  
43  
Rear Fender  
The rear fender is mounted at the seatstay brace. There are two  
ways in which to mount your rear fender. The first is the screw  
mounting system (see figure 3), and the second is the 10mm bolt  
and screw system (see figure 4). Identify the mounting system used  
on your bicycle and follow the given instructions for that particular  
type of mounting system.  
1. Screw Mounting System  
First remove the rear wheel. Place the fender assembly  
between the stays, making sure the fender bracket holes  
line up with those in the frame. Attach the fener by using  
two screws to directly mount the fender onto the frame.  
The mounts are located below the seat post and near the  
rear of the crank. Tighten all screws until snug.  
figure 3  
2. 10mm Bolt and Screw System  
First remove the rear wheel. Place the fender assembly  
between the stays, making sure the fender bracket holes  
line up with those in the frame. Attach the fender by using  
one screw to directly mount the fender onto the frame near  
the crank. Next, use the 10mm hex bolt and nut to attach  
the fender to the brace between the seat stays, near the  
seat post. Tighten all bolts and screws until snug.  
figure 4  
44  
Final Check  
-
After all adjustments have been made, shift through every  
gear several times at varying speeds. This will ensure all  
your adjustments are correct and will allow you to pinpoint  
any trouble areas. If you encounter any problems, refer to  
the appropriate section and make any necessary adjustments.  
-
-
-
Check the tire pressure and inflate each tube to the recommended  
psi as stated on the sidewall of the tire.  
Check that the kickstand operates smoothly and the  
kickstand bolt is secured tightly.  
Finally, examine the bicycle. Make sure all accessories are  
attached and all quick releases, nuts and bolts have been  
tightened securely.  
-
Correct maintenance of your bicycle will ensure many years  
of happy riding. Service your bicycle regularly by referring  
to the relevant sections of this manual, OR take it to a  
professional bicycle shop.  
Never inflate a tire beyond the maximum  
pressure marked on the tire’s sidewall.  
Exceeding the recommended pressure  
may blow the tire off the rim, which  
could cause damage to the bicycle and  
injury to the rider and bystanders.  
Remember: Always wear a helmet and obey all  
traffic laws.  
Tighten both rear wheel axle nuts or the  
quick release mechanism securely. Failure  
to do this may cause the rear wheel to  
dislodge from the frame dropouts resulting  
in serious damage or injury.  
45  
SINGLE SPEED & BMX  
Includes 16" and 20" BMX Bikes  
Assembly is the same for boy’s and girl’s bikes.  
Foreword: Assembling a bicycle is an important responsibility. Proper  
assembly not only gives the rider more enjoyment of the bicycle; it  
also offers an important measure of safety.  
Getting Started  
Open the carton from the top and remove the bicycle. Remove the  
straps and protective wrapping from the bicycle. Inspect the bicycle and  
all accessories and parts for possible shortages. It is recommended that  
the threads and all moving parts in the parts package be lubricated prior to  
installation. Do not discard packing materials until assembly is complete  
to insure that no required parts are accidentally discarded. Assemble  
your bicycle following the steps that pertain to your model.  
Stem Cap Binder Bolts  
Note: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style components than  
the ones illustrated.  
Stem  
Bolt  
Handlebars  
Remove the protective cap from the stem wedge and loosen the stem  
bolt using the 6mm Allen key. Some models may use a 13mm  
hexagonal bolt instead of an Allen key bolt. Place the handlebar stem  
into the head tube, observing the minimum insertion mark on the  
handlebar stem and ensuring that all cables are free of tangles. Check  
that the fork and the handlebar are facing forward, and that they are  
properly aligned with the front wheel. Tighten the stem bolt. Rotate the  
handlebar to the desired position. Tighten stem cap bolt 1 (see picture)  
two turns, tighten stem cap bolt 2 two turns and so on. Repeat until  
handle bar is secure to the stem. See picture for a 4 or 6-bolt system.  
Also check that the stem binder bolts are tightened equally and securely.  
Minimum  
Insertion Mark  
Stem Wedge  
Head  
Tube  
Four Bolt  
Face  
Plate  
Six Bolt  
Face  
Plate  
The handlebar must be inserted so that the minimum insertion  
mark cannot be seen. WARNING: Over tightening the stem  
bolt or headset assembly may cause damage to the bicycle and/  
or injury to the rider.  
four bolt  
46  
Seat  
Loosen nut on the seat clamp and add 3 or 4 drops of oil onto the  
threads of the bolt. Place the smaller end of the seat post into the seat  
clamp until it stops with the bolt to the rear of the seat post. Thread the  
nut on the seat clamp loosely. Insert the larger end of the seat post into  
the seat tube of the bicycle frame observing the minimum insertion mark  
on the seat post. Position the top surface of the seat parallel with the  
ground. The serrations on the seat clamp must mesh completely with  
the seat frame serrations, push the front of the seat up and down to align the  
serrations. Securely tighten the seat clamp. Securely tighten the bolts on  
the seat post clamp. Turn the bicycle upside down and rest it on the seat  
and handlebars.  
The seat pillar must be inserted so that the minimum  
insertion mark cannot be seen.  
Pedals & Crank Set  
Look for the letters “R” for right, and “L” for left, stamped on each pedal  
spindle. Start each pedal spindle by hand to avoid stripping the threads.  
Tighten with a 15mm narrow open ended wrench. Note that the right hand  
pedal attaches to the chainwheel side crank arm with a right-hand (clockwise)  
thread. The left pedal attaches to the other crank arm and has a left-hand  
(counter-clockwise) thread. It is very important that you check the crank set for  
correct adjustment and tightness before riding your bicycle. New cranks may  
become loose with initial use, refer to p. 83-86 for proper crank set adjustment  
and maintenance. Once the pedals have been attached, check that the crank  
arm rotates smoothly and that there is no lateral movement.  
Attachment of an incorrect pedal into a crank arm will  
cause irreparable damage.  
47  
Front Wheel  
Retaining  
Washer  
1. Make sure the brakes are loose enough to allow the wheel to  
pass through the brake pads easily.  
Axle Nut  
Axle  
2. Place wheel into fork drop outs.  
Hub  
3. Install retaining washers with raised lip pointed towards the fork,  
and insert into the small hole of the fork blade. NOTE: Some bikes  
may have step retaining washers in place of the retaining washer  
(shown in dotted box). If so, install the step retaining washer,  
raised portion sliding in to the fork dropouts.  
4. Install axle nut and tighten. Make sure the wheel is centered  
between the fork blades.  
5. Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered and clears the  
brake shoes. Tighten the brakes if necessary.  
Cone Nuts  
Step  
Retaining  
Washer  
Fork Drop Out  
6. Turn the bicycle upright using the kickstand to support it.  
It is very important to check the front wheel  
connection to the bicycle. Failure to properly tighten  
may cause the front wheel to dislodge.  
Brake Lever  
Nipple  
Front Brake  
Ferrule  
Determine which type of brake your bike is equipped with and refer  
to the appropriate assembly instructions. For more information on  
brake adjustment and maintenance, refer to p. 77-80. A greater force  
is required to activate the rear brake due to longer cable length. It is  
advisable to mount the rear brake on the side of the stronger hand.  
It is important to become familiar with the use of hand brakes. When  
properly adjusted, hand brakes are an efficient braking system. Keep  
the rim and brake shoes clean and free from wax, lubricants and dirt  
at all times. Keep brakes properly adjusted and in good working  
condition at all times.  
Cable  
Adjusting  
Barrel  
Open the brake lever and place the nipple end of the short brake  
cable into the lever, then close the lever. Secure the ferrule against  
the lever using the cable adjusting barrel.  
Grip  
Handlebar  
48  
Side Pull Brake  
Side Pull  
Brakes  
Cable  
Adjusting  
Barrel  
Loosen the cable anchor nut and thread the brake cable through it.  
Tighten the nut by hand until it holds the cable in place. Squeeze the  
brake arms together against the rim of the wheel. Loosen the nuts on  
the brake shoes and turn until they match the angle of the rim. Tight-  
en the nuts securely. Pull down on the end of the brake cable with pli-  
ers, hold taut and securely tighten the cable anchor nut.  
Center Bolt  
Brake  
Arm  
Cable  
Anchor  
Nut  
Spin the wheel, the brake shoes should not contact the rim at any  
point and should be an equal distance from the rim on both sides.  
Make sure all nuts and bolts are securely tightened. Test the brake  
levers 20-25 times to take care of any initial cable stretch. Be sure to  
tightly secure the brake fixing nut behind the fork.  
Fixing Nut  
in Back  
Brake Shoe  
When assembling or adjusting the brakes, make  
sure the cable anchor is tight. Failure to securely  
tighten the nut could result in brake failure and  
personal injury.  
Cantilever  
Brakes  
1. Install the cable into  
the cable carrier.  
Cable  
End  
Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Link Wire  
If fitted with cantilever type brakes, insert the brake cable into the link  
wire lead, and notch the cable end into the slot of the left brake arm.  
Loosen the anchor bolt on the right brake arm and slide the brake  
cable under the tabbed washer. Squeeze both brake arms together  
so the brake shoes hit the rim, pull all slack out of the brake cable,  
and tighten the anchor bolt. With the cable fitted, the straddle holder  
should sit 10-20mm above the reflector bracket. Adjust the brake  
shoes using a 10mm wrench so that they are parallel with the rim and  
are positioned 1-2mm away from the rim. Several adjustments may  
be necessary to achieve the correct brake position.  
2. Set the cable onto  
the straddle holder.  
2
1
49  
3. Temporarily tighten the cable so  
that the link wire is at the position in  
the illustration.  
5. Secure one of the shoes at a time.  
The adjustment of the shoe clearance is  
not necessary at this time.  
Shoe fixing nut tightening torque:  
7.84 - 8.82 Nm (70 - 78 in. lbs.)  
3
Link Wire  
10 mm wrench  
5 mm Allen key  
Touching  
Cable Anchor Bolt  
Spring tension  
adjustment screw  
1 mm  
6. If balance adjustment is necessary,  
adjust with the spring tension  
adjustment screw.  
Cable Casing Holder  
Cut off any unneces-  
sary cable, attach an end  
cap, and hook it onto the  
notched part of the nut  
which secures the shoe.  
1
2
4. Turn the spring tension  
adjustment screw so that the link  
wire comes to a position directly  
below the cable casing holder.  
1
2
End cap  
1
2
1
2
50  
Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Straddle Cable  
The length of the straddle cable, the height of the straddle hanger,  
and the brake pad-to-caliper arm position all have an effect on brak-  
ing power. Generally, the straddle cable bridge is set low and close  
to the tire for maximum braking force. The straddle cable should be  
high enough, however, to adequately clear the tire (and any debris  
that may stick to the tire) or to fit over the front reflector hanger. In the  
event of brake cable failure, the front reflector hanger would prevent  
the straddle cable from catching in the tire and locking up the front  
wheel. The straddle cable length (when adjustable) is set to transfer  
as much force to the brake pads as possible. For the most efficient  
transfer of force, the straddle cable and the line between the cantilever  
pivot and the cable anchor should form a right angle (90 degrees). If  
the force is not at a right angle, part of the force gets wasted in pulling  
on the brake post, which has no effect on braking.  
Straddle  
Cable  
Brake  
Brake Cable  
Straddle Hanger  
Straddle Cable  
Pinch Bolt  
o
90  
Cable  
Anchor  
Pivot  
Caliper Arm  
Brake pad aligned with the rim surface  
Pad and rim should be parallel  
Pad should be “toed-in”  
1- 2 mm  
0.5 - 1.0 mm  
51  
2. While holding the shoe against the rim, adjust the  
amount of shoe protrusion by interchanging the  
position of the B washers (i.e. 6 mm or 3 mm) so that  
dimension A is kept at 39 mm or more.  
V - Brake  
If fitted with V-Brakes, insert the brake body  
into the center spring hole in the frame mount-  
ing boss, and then secure the brake body to the  
frame with the link fixing bolt.  
1.  
39 mm or more  
A
5 mm Allen key  
3 mm washer B  
6 mm washer B  
Shoe fixing nut  
Washer  
Link  
Spring  
fixing  
hole  
bolt  
Washer  
Washer A  
Shoe fixing link  
Washer A  
Stopper pin  
52  
3. While holding the shoe against  
5. Adjust the balance with the spring  
the rim, tighten the shoe fixing nut.  
tension adjustment screws.  
5 mm Allen key  
1 mm  
1 mm 1 mm  
Spring tension  
adjustment screw  
Spring tension  
adjustment screw  
4. Pass the inner cable through the inner  
cable lead. Set the cable with a clearance  
of 1mm between each brake pad and the  
rim, tighten the cable fixing bolt.  
6. Depress the brake lever about 10 times as  
far as the grip and check that everything is  
operating correctly and that the shoe clearance  
is correct before using the brakes.  
Depress about  
10 times  
5 mm Allen key  
B
C
B + C = 2 mm  
53  
U-Brakes  
Front U-Brake  
Begin by adjusting the pads of the U-brakes using a 10mm wrench. Make sure the  
pad is hitting the rim and not the tire. Ideally the front of the pad should hit the rim  
approximately 1mm before the rear pad.  
Front U-Brake  
Slide the brake cable and housing through the Housing Barrel and through the  
cable anchor bolt. Set the cable clearance of 1mm between the brake pads and the  
rim. Tighten the cable anchor bolt. All instructions shown are if you are looking at  
the bike from the front. For brake adjustments, use a 13mm box end wrench and  
a 5mm allen wrench. Loosen the 5mm allen bolt. For the drive side (left) of the  
bike turn the spring tension nut with a 13mm box end wrench counter-clockwise to  
increase tension on the spring. For the non-drive side (right), turn spring tension  
nut with a box end wrench clockwise to increase tension on the spring. When the  
desired tension is achieved hold the tension nut with the 13mm wrench and tighten  
the 5mm allen bolt. The tension on each side should be equal so that the brake  
arms move the same distance when the brake is activated.  
Rear U-Brake  
Option 1  
Rear U-Brake  
Option 1: Next, tighten the Cable Carrier to the brake cable approximately 20mm  
from the brake arms when they are closed against the rim. Attach the Straddle  
cable to the carrier. Hook cable end into the brake slot, pull excess straddle cable  
through the cable anchor and tighten the cable anchor. Continue with “For Both  
Options” below. Option 2: Place brake housing into the frame housing stops. Pull  
brake cable tightly and thread across through the opposite cable anchor bolt. Tight-  
en cable. Repeat for other side. Continue with “For Both Options” below.  
For Both Options: For brake adjustments, use a 13mm open end wrench and a  
5mm allen wrench and loosen the 5mm allen bolt. For the drive side (right) of the  
bike turn the spring tension nut with a 13mm open end wrench counter clockwise to  
increase tension on the spring. For the non-drive side (left), turn the spring tension  
nut with a box end wrench clockwise to increase tension on the spring. When the  
desired tension is achieved, hold the tension nut with the 13mm wrench and tighten  
the 5mm allen bolt. The tension on each side should be equal so that the brake  
arms move the same distance when the brake is activated. PLEASE NOTE that  
some BMX frames have the U-Brake flipped and mounted below the seatstays. The  
direction to tension the springs will still be oriented to how the picture is oriented.  
Rear U-Brake  
Option 2  
54  
Blake Lever™ Cable Installation  
1. Slide the covering plate back towards the brake lever. (Figure  
1). Squeeze the brake lever so the cable roller is exposed.  
2. Rotate out the cable roller. Push the lower cable roller assem-  
bly down towards the hinge assembly. The top plate should  
not move.  
3. With one index finger hold the top plate and with the other  
index finger separate the lower cable roller assembly with the  
top plate.  
4. Insert the brake cable around the lower cable roller assembly.  
(Figure 2). Reassemble the lower cable roller assembly with  
the top plate. Be sure to pull the lower cable assembly up  
away from the hinge assembly. Make sure the cable roller is  
locked into place with the top plate.  
Figure 1  
5. Install the adjuster barrels into the proper slots.  
6. Reattach the covering plate.  
The rest of the assembly will follow the Rotor assembly procedures  
(page 56, beginning at the Upper Cable Section, Part 2).  
Figure 2  
Check your Brakes  
Press each brake lever to make sure that there is no binding and that the brake pads press hard enough on the rims to stop  
the bike. The brake pads should be adjusted so they are 1mm to 2 mm away from the rim when the brakes are not applied.  
Brake pads should be centered on the rim and the rear portion of each brake pad should be about 0.5 - 1.0 mm farther from  
the rim than the front portion of the brake pad.  
Do not ride the bicycle until the brakes are functioning properly. To  
test, apply the brakes while trying to push the bike forward to make  
sure they will stop the bicycle.  
55  
to set the bearing for maximum travel. The bearing should  
be as far down as it can go without resting on the lower  
plate or the adjusting barrels screwed into the lower plate.  
3. Use the adjusting barrels that are screwed into the  
upper plate to make the bearing parallel to the upper  
plate. Use a 10mm wrench to tighten the locknut on the  
left adjusting barrel of the upper cable. Leave the right  
adjusting barrel loose.  
Rotors  
Some freestyle BMX bicycles come equipped with a detangler  
system that will allow the handlebar to spin 360-degrees without  
binding the cables. It is very important that this system is adjusted  
correctly. Installation should only be done by a qualified bicycle  
mechanic with the correct tools.  
Upper Cable  
1. First connect the barrel end of the upper cable to the  
rear brake lever. Make sure the long cable casing is on  
top of the short cable casing; otherwise, the upper cable  
will have a twist in it.  
4. Screw the lower cable adjusting barrel into (or out of)  
the lower plate until they are as close to the bearing as  
they can get without touching it.  
2. Route the upper cable through the handlebars (below  
the crossbar) with the short cable casing on the same  
side as the rear brake lever.  
3. Connect the upper cable to the upper plate by passing  
the football ends of the upper cable through the threaded  
holes in the upper plate and connecting them to the bearing.  
4. Screw the adjusting barrels into the upper plate. Don’t  
tighten the locknuts at this time.  
5. Screw the cable adjuster on the upper cable splitter out  
until all slack is removed from the upper cable. Then  
screw the cable adjuster out one more turn to raise the  
bearing an additional 1mm away from the lower cable  
adjusting barrels.  
CAUTION: Don’t screw the cable adjuster on the upper  
cable splitter out more than 8mm. Use the cable adjuster  
on the rear brake lever if more adjustment is needed.  
6. Check for bearing flop by placing the handlebars in the  
normal riding position, then quickly rotate the handlebars  
back and forth. Perform the following steps to eliminate  
bearing flop.  
Lower Cable  
1. Slide the cable casing through the cable guide on the frame.  
2. Connect the lower cable to the lower plate by passing  
the football ends of the lower cable through the threaded  
holes in the lower plate and connecting them to the bearing.  
3. Screw the adjusting barrels into the lower plate. Don’t  
tighten the locknuts at this time.  
4. Connect the lower cable to the rear brake. Don’t adjust  
the rear brake at this time.  
NOTE: Check to make sure all 11 cable casing ends on  
the upper and lower cables are seated correctly, and that  
the spring tension of the rear brake is pulling the bearing down.  
Adjustment  
NOTE: The bearing should never be allowed to rest on  
the lower plate or lower cable adjusting barrels.  
a) Screw the lower cable adjusting barrels out of (or  
into) the lower plate until all bearing flop is eliminated.  
b) Tighten the locknut of the right adjusting barrel on the  
lower cable.  
c) Rotate the handlebars 180 degrees and recheck for  
bearing flop. If there is any bearing flop, use the  
“loose” adjusting barrels on the upper and lower cable to  
remove it.  
1. Screw the cable adjusters on the rear brake lever and the  
upper cable splitter all the way in.  
2. Screw the adjusting barrels in the upper plate in (or out)  
d) Repeat steps (6a) and (6c) until the handlebars can be  
rotated 360 degrees without any bearing flop.  
7. Finish adjusting the rear brakes.  
56  
Failure to adjust correctly may result in  
loss of braking power and personal injury.  
Single Cable Casing  
Cable Adjuster  
Cable Splitter  
Upper Cable  
(long casing)  
Barrel End  
Upper Cable  
(short casing)  
Adjusting Barrel  
Locknut  
Upper Plate  
Set for Max. Travel  
37mm + or - 1mm  
Keyed Washer  
Bearing  
Football Ends  
Lower Plate  
Minimum 1mm (1/32”)  
Locknut  
Adjusting Barrel  
Lower Cable  
57  
Axle Peg Assembly Instructions  
Non-Threaded  
Non-Threaded  
First remove the axle nut from the wheel. There will be either  
a retaining washer or a step retaining washer included. Place  
this washer between the peg and the frame of the bicycle. Slide  
the peg onto the axle, followed by a flat washer and lastly the  
axle nut. Tighten the axle nut clockwise until the peg fits snugly  
against the frame or fork. Repeat for all the remaining pegs.  
Threaded  
Threaded  
This style of peg is threaded to fit the axle. Make sure the axle  
nut is tight with a 15mm wrench. Place a screw driver through  
the mounting holes of the peg and attach the peg to the axle by  
turning clockwise. Tighten against the frame or fork for a snug fit.  
Repeat for all the remaining pegs.  
PLEASE NOTE: Not all axles are able to accept axle pegs.  
Please consult the Pacific Cycle Service Department if you  
have any questions. Some BMX bicycles come with two or  
four pegs. If your bicycle is a Dirt Jumping style bicycle,  
you will receive only two pegs. These are designed for the  
front wheel. Freestyle bicycles come with four pegs, two for  
each wheel.  
58  
Training Wheels  
There are two options when attaching the training wheels to  
the wheel brace. Determine which option is used on your  
bicycle and follow the given instructions for that option.  
Option 1  
First attach the training wheels to the wheel brace. Position  
a washer on the shoulder bolt. Next, insert the shoulder  
bolt through the wheel. Follow with another flat washer  
then completely thread a hex nut onto the shoulder bolt.  
Insert the shoulder bolt through the wheel brace and set the  
washer on the shoulder bolt. Lock the training wheel into  
place by screwing another hex nut onto the shoulder bolt.  
Repeat for both training wheels.  
Option 1  
Option 2  
First attach the training wheels to the wheel brace. Insert  
the shoulder bolt through the wheel. Follow with a flat  
washer. Insert the shoulder bolt through the wheel brace  
and set the washer on the shoulder bolt. Lock the train-  
ing wheel into place by screwing another hex nut onto the  
shoulder bolt. Repeat for both training wheels.  
It is very important to check the training  
wheel connection to the bicycle. Failure  
to properly tighten may cause the train-  
ing wheel to dislodge. Please contact  
Pacific Cycle Service with any questions.  
Option 2  
59  
Attaching Training Wheel Brace to Bicycle  
There are two different braces used to attach the training  
wheels to the bicycle: the C-Shape Brace and the Flat Brace.  
Determine which brace was included with your bicycle and fol-  
low the given instructions for that particular brace.  
C-Shape Brace  
Remove the axle nut and washer from the rear wheel axle.  
Place the brace stabilizer washer onto the axle and align the  
washer so that the notch on the washer fits into the rear frame  
drop out. Next, place the C-shaped wheel brace onto the axle  
and replace the washer and axle nut. Tighten the axle nut  
securely, making sure that the wheel brace stays in the proper  
vertical position. The elongated hole on the wheel brace  
allows the training wheel height to be adjusted for proper fit.  
C-Shape  
Flat Brace  
Remove the axle nut and washer from the rear wheel axle.  
Place the flat wheel brace onto the axle. Next place the brace  
stabilizer washer onto the axle and align it so that the notch  
fits into the rear frame drop out. Replace the washer and axle  
nut. Tighten the axle nut securely, making sure that the wheel  
brace stays in the proper vertical position. The elongated  
hole on the wheel brace allows the training wheel height to be  
adjusted for proper fit.  
Flat  
60  
Training Wheel Stabilizer Bracket  
Your bicycle may include a stabilizer bracket to attach the train-  
ing wheel to the bicycle.  
First remove the nut and washer from the rear wheel axle.  
Align the stabilizer bracket onto the brace. Align the brace and  
stabilizer bracket on the wheel axle. Replace the axle nut and  
washer, secure tightly. The elongated hole on the brace allows  
for raising and lowering the training wheel to the proper height.  
NOTICE: Not all bicycles will accept training wheels. If your  
bike did not come stock with training wheels, please call Pacific  
Cycle to help determine if after-market training wheels can be  
attached.  
It is very important to check the training wheel connection to the bicycle. Failure to properly tighten  
may cause the training wheel to dislodge. Please contact Pacific Cycle Service with any questions.  
61  
Final Check  
Install any additional parts that are supplied with your bike.  
NOTE: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style  
components than the ones illustrated.  
Pads  
Reflectors: Attach the white reflector to the front bracket and the  
red reflector to the rear bracket using an 8mm wrench or a Phil-  
lips head screwdriver. Attach the brackets to the bicycle using  
the hardware provided. For some models, the front reflector bracket  
will be mounted on the front brake assembly bolt that fits  
through the fork. It is important to make sure all connections are  
tightened securely and that the reflectors are properly angled.  
Pads: If your bike is supplied with pads, wrap the foam inner  
cushion around the appropriate bar. Place the outer cover over  
the inner cushion and press the velcro together securely. Turn  
the pad so the velcro faces the ground.  
Chainguards: If not already attached, attach the chainguard to  
the bicycle frame using the clamps provided. Secure in place  
making sure the guard does not bind or get caught on the  
chain.  
Tire Pressure: Check tire pressure, inflate to the range  
recommended on the tire sidewalls.  
Pegs: There are many different types of pegs-too many to deal  
with individually in this manual. Please see your dealer for spe-  
cific information regarding peg installation.  
Front  
Reflector  
(White)  
Rear  
Reflector  
(Red)  
Before riding, ensure all nuts, bolts and fittings  
on the bicycle have been correctly tightened.  
Chainguard  
62  
Correct routine maintenance of your new bike will ensure:  
Smooth running - Longer lasting components - Safer riding - Lower running costs  
Every time you ride your bicycle, its condition changes. The more you ride, the more frequently maintenance will be  
required. We recommend you spend a little time on regular maintenance tasks. The following schedules are a useful guide  
and by referring to Part 5 of this manual, you should be able to accomplish most tasks. If you require assistance, we  
recommend you see a bicycle specialist.  
Schedule 1 - Lubrication  
Frequency  
Weekly  
Component  
chain  
Lubricant  
chain lube or light oil  
How to Lubricate  
brush on or squirt  
brush on or squirt  
oil can  
derailleur wheels  
derailleurs  
chain lube or light oil  
oil  
brake calipers  
brake levers  
shift levers  
oil  
3 drops from oil can  
2 drops from oil can  
disassemble  
oil  
Monthly  
lithium based grease  
Every Six Months  
Yearly  
freewheel  
oil  
2 squirts from oil can  
disassemble  
disassemble  
disassemble  
disassemble  
disassemble  
disassemble  
disassemble  
brake cables  
bottom bracket  
pedals  
lithium based grease  
lithium based grease  
lithium based grease  
lithium based grease  
lithium based grease  
lithium based grease  
lithium based grease  
derailleur cables  
wheel bearings  
headset  
seat pillar  
Note: The frequency of maintenance should increase with use in wet or dusty conditions. Do not over  
lubricate - remove excess lubricant to prevent dirt build up. Never use a degreaser to lubricate your chain (WD-40™)  
63  
Schedule 2 - Service Checklist  
Frequency  
Task  
Page Reference  
Before every ride  
Check tire pressure  
67  
77-80  
66  
Check brake operation  
Check wheels for loose spokes  
Make sure nothing is loose  
66  
After every ride  
Weekly  
Quick wipe down with damp cloth  
Lubrication as per schedule 1  
Lubrication as per schedule 1  
Check derailleur adjustment  
20  
63  
Monthly  
63  
90-92  
77-80  
73, 90  
67  
Check brake adjustment  
Check brake and gear cable adjustment  
Check tire wear and pressure  
Check wheels are true and spokes tight  
Check hub, head set and crank bearings for looseness  
Check pedals are tight  
66  
68, 74, 83  
81  
Check handlebars are tight  
70-71  
75-76  
10  
Check seat and seat post are tight and comfortably adjusted  
Check frame and fork for trueness  
Check all nuts and bolts are tight  
Lubrication as per schedule 1  
Check all points as per monthly service  
Check and replace brake pads, if required  
Check chain for excess play or wear  
Lubrication as per schedule 1  
Every Six Months  
Yearly  
63  
64  
77-78  
87  
63  
64  
Tools Required  
1. Open ended wrench or ring  
wrenches: 8mm, 9mm, 10mm,  
12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm  
2. Open end or pedal wrench 15mm  
3. Allen key wrenches: 4mm, 5mm,  
6mm, 8mm  
4. Adjustable wrench  
5. Standard flat head screwdriver  
6. Standard Phillips head screwdriver  
7. Standard slip joint pliers  
8. Tire pump  
9
Tube repair kit  
10. Tire levers  
Travel Tools  
1. Spare Tube  
2. Patch kit  
3. Pump  
4. Tire levers  
5. Multi-tool  
6. Change (phone call)  
65  
WHEELS AND TIRES  
Wheel Inspection  
It is most important that wheels are kept in top condition. Properly maintaining your bicycle's wheels will help braking  
performance and stability when riding. Be aware of the following potential problems:  
•Dirty or greasy rims:  
Caution: These can render your brakes ineffective. Do not clean them with oily or greasy materials. When  
cleaning, use a clean rag or wash with soapy water, rinse and air dry. Don't ride while they're wet.  
When lubricating your bicycle, don't get oil on the rim braking surfaces.  
•Wheels not straight:  
Lift each wheel off the ground and spin them to see if they are crooked or out of true. If wheels are not straight, they  
will need to be adjusted. This is quite difficult and is best left to a bicycle specialist.  
•Broken or loose spokes:  
Check that all spokes are tight and that none are missing or damaged.  
Caution: Such damage can result in severe instability and possibly an accident if not corrected.  
Again, spoke repairs are best handled by a specialist.  
•Loose hub bearings:  
Lift each wheel off the ground and try to move the wheel from side to side.  
Caution: If there is movement between the axle and the hub, do not ride the bicycle. Adjustment is required.  
•Axle nuts:  
Check that these are tight before each ride.  
•Quick release:  
Check that these are set to the closed position and are properly tensioned before each ride.  
Caution: Maintain the closed position and the correct adjustment. Failure to do so may result in serious injury.  
66  
Tire Inspection  
Tires must be maintained properly to ensure road holding and stability. Check the following areas:  
Inflation: Ensure tires are inflated to the pressure indicated on the tire sidewalls. It is better to use a tire gauge  
and a hand pump than a service station pump.  
Caution: If inflating tires with a service station pump, take care that sudden over inflation does not cause  
tire to blow out.  
Bead  
Seating:  
When inflating or refitting tire, make sure that the bead is properly seated in the rim.  
Tread:  
Check that the tread shows no signs of excessive wear or flat spots, and that there are no cuts or other damage.  
Caution: Excessively worn or damaged tires should be replaced.  
Valves:  
Make sure valve caps are fitted and that valves are free from dirt. A slow leak caused by the entry of the dirt can  
lead to a flat tire, and possibly a dangerous situation.  
Recommended Tire pressures:  
The recommended pressure molded on the sidewall of your bicycle tires should match the following chart.  
Use this as a general guide.  
BMX 35-50 p.s.i.  
MTB 40-65 p.s.i.  
Road Touring 70-90 p.s.i.  
Road Racing 110-125 p.s.i.  
Hybrid/Crossbike 60-100 p.s.i.  
67  
Ball Bearings  
Hub Bearing Adjustment  
When checked, the hub bearings of either wheel will require  
adjustment if there is any more than slight side play.  
Bearing  
Cone  
Lock  
Washer  
Hub Body  
1. Check to make sure neither locknut is loose.  
2. To adjust, remove wheel from bicycle and loosen the locknut on  
one side of the hub while holding the bearing cone on the same  
side with a flat open end wrench.  
3. Rotate the adjusting cone as needed to eliminate free play.  
4. Re-tighten the locknut while holding the adjusting cone in position.  
5. Re-check that the wheel can turn freely without excessive side play.  
Axle  
Washer  
Lock Nut  
Axle Nut  
How To Fix a Flat Tire  
If you need to repair a tire, follow these steps:  
1. Remove the wheel from the bicycle.  
2. Deflate the tire completely via the valve.  
Loosen the tire bead by pushing it inward all the way around.  
3. Press one side of the tire bead up over the edge of the rim.  
Note: Use tire levers, not a screwdriver, otherwise you may  
damage the rim.  
Push tire bead  
into the center  
of the rim.  
4. Remove the tube, leaving the tire on the rim.  
5. Locate the leaks and patch using a tube repair kit, carefully  
following the instructions, or replace the tube.  
Note: Ensure that the replacement tube size matches the size  
stated on the tire sidewall and that the valve is the correct type  
for your bicycle.  
68  
6.  
7.  
Match the position of the leak in the tube with the tire to locate the possible  
cause and mark the location on the tire.  
Remove the tire completely and inspect for a nail, glass, etc. and remove if  
located. Also inspect the inside of the rim to ensure there are no protruding  
spokes, rust or other potential causes. Replace the rim tape which covers the  
spoke ends, if damaged.  
8.  
9.  
Remount one side of the tire onto the rim.  
Remove tire bead from the rim.  
Using a hand pump, inflate the tube just enough to give it some shape.  
10. Place the valve stem through the hole in the rim and work the tube into the  
tire. Note: Do not let it twist.  
11.  
Using your hands only, remount the other side of the tire by pushing the edge  
toward the center of the rim. Start on either side of the valve and work around  
the rim.  
12. Before the tire is completely mounted, push the valve up into the rim to make  
sure the tire can sit squarely in position.  
13. Fit the rest of the tire, rolling the last, most difficult part on using your thumbs.  
Note: Avoid using tire levers as these can easily puncture the tube or damage  
the tire.  
Pull tire back onto the rim.  
14. Check that the tube is not caught between the rim and the tire bead at any point.  
15.  
16.  
Using a hand pump, inflate the tube until the tire begins to take shape, and check  
that the tire bead is evenly seated all the way around the rim. When properly  
seated, fully inflate the tire to the pressure marked on the sidewall. Use a tire air  
pressure gauge to check.  
Replace the wheel into the frame checking that all gears, brakes and quick  
release levers are properly adjusted.  
69  
HANDLEBARS AND STEM  
Handlebar Stem  
The handlebar stem fits into the steering column and is held firm by  
the action of a binder bolt and expander wedge which, when tightened,  
binds with the inside of the fork steerer tube.  
When removing the stem, loosen the stem bolt two or three turns,  
then give it a tap to loosen the wedge inside.  
Lubricate by first wiping off any old grease and grime, then applying a  
thin film of grease to the part, including the wedge, that will be inserted  
into the frame.  
Max. Height/  
Minimum Insertion  
Mark  
The height of the handlebar can be adjusted to suit your  
comfort preference.  
If the stem is removed from the steering column, you will notice a  
mark about 65mm up from the bottom with the words “max. height” or  
“minimum insertion".  
Never ride a bicycle if the stem has  
been raised so that the max. height/  
minimum insertion line can be seen.  
Handlebar Clamp Bolts  
Handlebar Binder Bolt  
Warning: Over tightening the stem  
bolt or headset assembly may cause  
damage to the bicycle and/or injury  
to the rider.  
Stem Bolt  
Max. Height/  
Min. Insertion Mark  
Stem Bolt Wedge  
70  
When re-fitting the stem, make sure the handlebars are correctly  
aligned and tightened using the appropriate hex wrench or allen key.  
Grip  
Do not over tighten.  
Test the security of the handlebar within the stem, and the stem  
within the fork steerer tube, by clamping the front wheel between your  
knees and trying to move the handlebar up and down, and from side  
to side. The handlebar should not move when applying turning pressure.  
Stem Bolt  
Handlebar  
Handlebar Stem  
Stem Bolt Wedge  
MTB Handlebar Assembly  
Handlebars  
The exact positioning of the handlebar is a matter of personal  
comfort. For MTB bicycles, the bar should be approximately  
horizontal, with the ends pointing back and slightly up. On BMX  
bicycles, the handlebar should remain in an approximately upright  
position but can be angled back or forward slightly for comfort. On  
MTB and racing style bicycles, the handlebar is usually tightened in  
the stem by a single allen key bolt or hexagonal bolt. On BMX style  
bicycles there may be four clamping bolts.  
Make sure  
handlebars and  
fork are facing  
forward  
Note, curved rake of  
fork faces forward  
Please note that if you need to replace the fork on your bicycle at any  
time, please consult a qualified bicycle technician.  
Never ride unless the handlebar clamping  
mechanism has been securely tightened.  
71  
Grip  
7/8” Plastic Washers  
Barrel Adjuster  
Cable  
GRIP SHIFTERS  
Grip Shift™ - Installation  
1. Slide front Grip Shift™ assembly over left side of handlebar leaving proper clearance for handlebar grip.  
If necessary, move the brake lever to accommodate Grip Shift™ and handlebar grip.  
2. Rotate assembly until cable exits beneath brake lever with adequate clearance for brake lever movement.  
3. Firmly tighten recessed clamp screw. Installation torque should be 20 in.-lbs.  
4. Slide the two 7/8” plastic washers over handlebar. The washers prevent the grip from interfering with Grip Shift™ rotation.  
5. Slide handlebar grip over handlebar. Thread the cable inner wire through cable housings and frame, and attach to  
derailleur. Make sure that the cable is in the V groove at the derailleur attachment bolt. If trimming the cable housing is  
necessary, be sure to replace the housing end cap.  
6. Adjust indexing.  
7. Slide rear Grip Shift™ over right side of handlebar and repeat steps 2 - 6.  
8. Actuate front and rear brake levers to be certain of proper operation. If Grip Shift™ interferes with brake lever movement,  
rotate brake lever or Grip Shift™. Check for proper brake lever operation again.  
72  
Cables and Cable Housing  
Cables and housing are one of the most over-  
looked parts on the bicycle. The first indication that  
your cables and housing need to be replaced is an  
increased amount of pressure needed to operate the  
brakes or shifters. Before every ride, check that there  
are no kinks or frays in the cables and housing. Also  
check that the housing is seated properly into each  
cable stop of the bicycle. It is recommended  
that the cables and housing are replaced at least  
every riding season to prolong the life of your bike.  
kink  
good cable  
Do not ride a bicycle that is not  
operating properly.  
fray  
73  
HEADSET  
Standard Headset  
Inspection  
The headset bearing adjustment should be checked every month.  
This is important as it is the headset which locks the fork into the  
frame, and if loose, can cause damage or result in an accident.  
While standing over the frame top tube with both feet on the ground,  
apply the front brake firmly and rock the bicycle back and forth; if you  
detect any looseness in the headset, it will need adjustment. Check  
that the headset is not over tight by slowly rotating the fork to the right  
and left. If the fork tends to stick or bind at any point, the bearings  
are too tight.  
Lock Nut  
Lock Washer  
Adjusting Cup/Cone  
Ball Retainer  
Note: If your bike is equipped with a threadless headset, please see  
a qualified specialist for repairs and adjustments.  
Adjustment  
Top Head Cup  
Loosen the headset top locknut or remove it completely along with the  
reflector bracket, if fitted. Turn the adjusting cup clockwise until finger  
tight. Replace the lock washer or reflector bracket and re-tighten the  
lock nut using a suitable wrench.  
Note: Do not over tighten or bearing damage will occur.  
Bottom Head Cup  
Always make sure that the headset is properly  
adjusted and that the headset locknut is fully  
tightened before riding.  
Ball Retainer  
Crown Race  
Warning: Over tightening the stem bolt or headset  
assembly may cause damage to the bicycle and/or  
injury to the rider.  
74  
SADDLE AND SEAT POST  
Inspection  
The seat fixing bolt and the seat post binder bolt should be checked  
for tightness and adjustment every month. On removing the seat post  
from the frame, you will notice a mark about 65mm up from the  
bottom with the words “max. height” or “minimum insertion”.  
Seat Fixing Bolt  
Seat Post  
Binder Bolt  
To avoid damage to either the seat post, the frame  
or possibly the rider, the minimum insertion mark  
must be inside the frame.  
Micro Adjustable  
Seat Post  
Lubrication  
Remove the seat post from the frame and wipe off any grease, rust or  
dirt. Then apply a thin film of new grease to the part that will be inserted  
into the frame. Re-insert, adjust and tighten the seat post in the frame.  
Seat Clamp Nut  
Standard  
Seat Post  
75  
Adjustment  
As mentioned in Part 2, the seat can be adjusted in height, angle and distance from the handlebars to suit the  
individual rider.  
Saddle angle is a matter of personal preference but the most comfortable position will usually be found when the top  
of the seat is almost parallel to the ground, or slightly raised at the front.  
The saddle can also be adjusted by sliding it forward or back along the mounting rails to obtain the most  
comfortable reach to the handlebars.  
When fitting, position the seat post into the clamp under the seat and place it in the frame without  
tightening. Adjust it to the desired angle and position, and tighten the clamping mechanism.  
There are two types of seat clamps commonly in use. The most common employs a steel clamp with hexagonal  
nuts on either side to tighten. The other type, known as a micro-adjustable clamp, uses a single vertically mounted  
Allen head fixing bolt to tighten. After fixing the seat to the desired position on the post, adjust the height to the  
required level and tighten the binder bolt.  
Note that the type of binder bolt may be either a hexagonal bolt, an Allen head bolt or a quick release mechanism.  
The operation of a seat post quick release mechanism is the same as for quick release hubs.  
Refer to p. 27.  
Test the security by grasping the seat and trying to turn it sideways. If it moves, you will need to further tighten the  
binder bolt.  
Note: Remember that the minimum insertion mark must remain inside the frame assembly.  
76  
BRAKES  
The correct adjustment and operation of your bicycle's brakes is extremely important for safe operation. Brakes should be  
checked for effective operation before every ride. Frequent checking of adjustment is necessary as the control cables will  
stretch and the brake pads will become worn with use.  
Never ride a bicycle unless the brakes are functioning properly.  
There are two types of hand operated bicycle brakes in common use: sidepull calipers and cantilever calipers.  
Both utilize a handlebar mounted lever which controls a cable to operate the brake. Sidepull brakes are mounted to the  
frame or fork via a single pivot point. Cantilever brakes use two brake pivot arms, each mounted on separate pivots on  
either side of the frame/fork.  
Inspection  
Brake levers should be checked for tightness at least every three  
months. They should be set in a comfortable position within easy  
reach of the rider's hands, and must not be able to move on the  
handlebar. Some brake levers make use of a reach adjustment screw,  
which can be altered to the distance between the handlebar grip and  
the lever, as required. The brake pads should be checked for correct  
positioning and tightness before every ride, and the various bolts and  
nuts at least every three months. Squeeze each brake lever to make  
sure they operate freely and that the brake pads press hard enough  
on the rims to stop the bike. There should be about 1mm - 2mm  
clearance between each pad and the rim when the brakes are not  
applied. The brake pads must be properly centered for maximum  
contact with the rim. Replace the brake pads if they are over worn so  
that the grooves or pattern cannot be seen. The brake cable wires  
should be checked for kinks, rust, broken strands or frayed ends. The  
outer casing should also be checked for kinks, stretched coils and  
other damage. If the cables are damaged, they should be replaced.  
Brake Cable  
Brake Arm  
Straddle Cable  
Cantilever Brakes  
77  
Some brakes have a quick release mechanism to allow easier wheel removal. Whenever you adjust the brakes,  
make sure the quick release mechanism is in the closed position.  
Never ride unless the quick release is firmly locked in the closed position.  
Lubrication  
Cable Adjusting Barrel  
The brake lever and brake caliper pivot points should be oiled with  
Lock nut  
2-3 drops of light oil at least every three months to ensure smooth  
operation and to reduce wear. Cables should be greased along  
their entire length, after removing them from their casings, at least  
every six months. Always grease new cables before fitting.  
Brake Lever  
Brake Lever Housing  
Adjustment - Sidepull Calipers  
Minor brake adjustment can be made via the cable adjusting bar-  
rel, usually located at the upper cable arm. To adjust, squeeze  
the brake pads against the rim, loosen the lock nut and turn the  
Cable Adjusting Barrel  
adjuster Brake pad clearance should be a maximum 2mm from  
the rim. When correct, re-tighten the lock nut. If the pads cannot  
be set close enough to the rim in this manner, you may have to  
adjust the cable length. Screw the barrel adjuster 3/4 of the way in,  
Center Bolt  
Brake Shoe  
Cable  
squeeze the pads against the rim, undo the cable anchor bolt and  
pull the cable through with pliers. Re-tighten the cable anchor bolt  
and apply full force to the brake lever to test, then fine tune using  
the barrel adjuster. If one pad is closer to the rim than the other,  
loosen the fixing nut at the back of the brake, apply the brake to  
hold it centered, and re-tighten the fixing nut.  
Anchor  
Bolt  
Fixing Nut  
in Back  
Ensure the Brake fixing nut is secured tightly.  
Failure to do this may cause the Brake assembly  
to dislodge from the fork.  
Side-Pull Brakes  
78  
Some brakes have a special mechanism which enables you to set the  
clearance on either side of the rim using a screwdriver. Brake pads  
should finally be adjusted so that the leading edge of the pad makes  
first contact with the rim. Some brakes have special curved washers  
to allow this, but on less complex models it will be necessary to apply  
a little force to the pad and its mounting.  
Adjustment - Cantilever Calipers  
Minor brake adjustment can be made via the barrel cable adjusters  
which are located on each brake lever. To adjust, squeeze the brake  
pads against the rim, loosen the lock nut, and turn the adjuster to pull  
the brake pads closer to, or spread them away from the rim as required.  
Brake pad clearance should be a maximum 2mm from the rim.  
When correct, re-tighten the lock nut. If the pads cannot be set close  
enough to the rim in this manner, you may have to adjust either the  
length of the straddle cable or the length of the brake cable.  
2mm clearance  
Fully Adjustable Brake Shoes  
Curved  
Adjustment  
Washer  
If the brakes use a separate brake cable and straddle cable, adjust  
the straddle length by first screwing the barrel adjuster 3/4 of the way  
in, then loosening the straddle cable fixing bolt, then pulling or pushing  
the cable through the fixing bolt to adjust the length, and finally  
re-tightening the fixing bolt.  
Parallel  
Check that the straddle bridge is in the middle of the cable to ensure  
even brake pad contact. Apply full force to the brake lever to test,  
then fine tune using the barrel adjuster.  
Curved  
Adjustment  
Washer  
To adjust the brake cable length, loosen the brake cable fixing bolt on  
the cable straddle bridge, adjust the length until the brake shoes are  
the correct distance from the rim, then re-tighten and test.  
Parallel  
79  
On some newer type cantilever brakes, the main brake cable  
continues through the central cable carrier to an anchor bolt on one  
of the brake arms. A shorter link cable reaches from the carrier and  
the hook on the other brake arm. Adjustment of the cable length is  
made after loosening the anchor bolt on the brake arm.  
Tread  
Tread Worn Off  
Adjust the brake pad position so that it is parallel to the wheel rim  
and so that the leading edge makes first contact. To do this, fit an  
Allen key into the brake pad holding bolt, loosen the fixing nut and  
adjust. Move the brake pad along its mounting post to alter the dis-  
tance from the rim, and move the curved adjustment washer to alter  
the angle of the pad.  
Usable Brake Shoe  
Worn Out Brake Shoe (Replace)  
On some models there is a spring-force adjustment screw on the  
brake arm which allows further fine tuning of the brake shoe position.  
Align brake shoe with rim surface  
Bicycles with cantilever brakes must be fitted with safety devices  
to prevent a possible accident in the event of the brake control  
cable or the straddle bridge becoming loose or breaking while rid-  
ing. These are usually the reflector brackets, and must be fitted in  
the front and rear. The bracket will prevent the straddle cable from  
interfering with the wheel should the cable become disconnected  
from the control cable. If the reflector brackets are not fitted in this  
position, then alternative emergency cable safety stops must still be fit-  
ted.  
Direction of rim  
rotation  
Brake Shoe Holding Nut  
0.5 - 1.0 mm  
80  
DRIVETRAIN  
The drivetrain of a bicycle refers to all parts that transmit power to the  
rear wheel including the pedals, chain, chainwheel, crank set, and  
freewheel.  
PEDALS  
Pedals are available in a variety of shapes, sizes and materials, and  
each are designed with a particular purpose in mind. Some pedals  
can be fitted with toe clips and straps. These help to keep the feet  
correctly positioned and allow the rider to exert pulling force, as well  
as downward pressure, on the pedals. Use of toe clips with straps  
requires practice to acquire the necessary skill to operate them safely.  
Inspection  
Pedals should be inspected every month, taking note of the  
following areas:  
-
Check correct tightness into the crank arms. If pedals are allowed  
to become loose, they will not only be dangerous but will also  
cause irreparable damage to the cranks.  
L = Left  
Turn counter-clockwise  
to tighten.  
-
Check that pedal bearings are properly adjusted. Move the pedals  
up and down, and right to left, and also rotate them by hand. If  
you detect any looseness or roughness in the pedal bearings then  
adjustment, lubrication or replacement is required.  
Ensure that the front and rear pedal reflectors are clean and  
securely fitted.  
-
-
Also ensure that the toe clips, if fitted, are securely tightened  
to the pedals.  
R = Right  
Never ride with loose pedals.  
Turn clockwise  
to tighten.  
81  
Lubrication and Adjustment  
Many pedals cannot be disassembled to allow access to the  
internal bearings and axle. However, it is usually possible to inject  
a little oil onto the inside bearings, and this should be done every  
six months. If the pedal is the type that can be fully disassembled,  
then the bearings should be removed, cleaned and greased every  
six to twelve months. Because of the wide variety of pedal types  
and their internal complexity, disassembly procedures are beyond  
the scope of this manual and further assistance should be sought  
from a specialist.  
Never ride in traffic with fully tightened toe straps.  
Pedal with toe clip and strap attached  
Attachment  
Note: The right and left pedals of a bicycle each have a different thread and are not interchangeable.  
Never force a pedal into the incorrect crank arm.  
The right pedal, which attaches to the chainwheel side, is marked 'R' on the end of the axle, and screws in with a clock-  
wise thread. The left pedal, which attaches to the other crank arm, is marked 'L' on the axle, and screws in with a coun-  
ter-clockwise thread.  
Insert the correct pedal into the crank arm and begin to turn the thread with your fingers only. When the axle is screwed  
all the way in, securely tighten using a 15mm wrench.  
If removing a pedal, remember that the right pedal axle must be turned counter clockwise, i.e. the reverse of when fitting.  
If replacing the original pedals with a new set, make sure the size and the axle thread is compatible with the cranks on  
your bicycle. Bicycles use one of two types of cranks and these use different axle threads. Your bike may be equipped  
with cranks that are a one piece design with no separate axle. These operate with pedals that have a 1/2"(12.7mm)  
thread. Bikes equipped with three piece crank sets with a separate axle, left crank and right crank, use a slightly larger  
9/16"(14mm) thread.  
Note: Never try and force a pedal with the wrong thread size into a bicycle crank.  
82  
CRANK SET  
The crank set refers to the bottom bracket axle and bearings, the  
crank arms, and chainrings.  
Your bike may be fitted with either a one piece crank, where the crank  
arms and bottom bracket are a single component, or cotterless cranks,  
where the crank arms bolt onto the bottom bracket axle without using  
old fashioned type cotterpins. The one piece system is simpler and  
requires less maintenance, while the cotterless system requires a little  
extra care.  
Never ride your bike if the cotterless cranks are loose.  
This may be dangerous and will damage the crank  
arms beyond repair.  
Cotterless Crank  
Inspection  
The crank set should be checked for correct adjustment and tightness  
every month. Cotterless crank axle nuts must be kept tight, and the  
bottom bracket bearings must be properly adjusted.  
Fixed Cup  
Remove the chain and try to move the cranks from side to side with  
your hands. The cranks should not move on the axle, and there  
should be only very slight movement in the bottom bracket. Next,  
spin the cranks. If they don't spin freely without grinding noise, then  
adjustment or lubrication will be needed. Also check that there are no  
broken teeth on the chainrings, and wipe off excess dirt and grease  
that may have built up on them.  
Ball Bearing  
Lockring  
Axle  
Adjusting  
Cup  
Standard Bottom Bracket Assembly (Cotterless)  
83  
Lubrication and Adjustment - One Piece Cranks  
To adjust the free play in a one piece type bottom bracket, loosen the locknut on the left side by turning it clockwise  
and tighten the adjusting cone counter-clockwise using a screwdriver in the slot. When correctly adjusted, re-tighten  
the locknut counter-clockwise.  
To disassemble:  
1. Remove the chain from the chainwheel.  
2. Remove the left pedal by turning the spindle clockwise.  
3. Remove the left side locknut by turning it clockwise and remove the keyed lockwasher.  
4. Remove the adjusting cone by turning it clockwise with a screwdriver.  
5. Remove the left ball retainer, slide the crank assembly out of the frame to the right, and remove the right ball retainer.  
Clean and inspect all bearing surfaces and ball retainers, and replace any damaged parts. Pack the ball bearing  
retainers with grease, then re-assemble in the reverse of the above procedure.  
Bearing Cup  
Locknut  
Fixed Cone  
Lockwasher  
Adjusting Cone  
Bearing Cup  
Ball Retainer  
Ball Retainer  
Crank  
Chainwheel  
One Piece Crank Assembly  
84  
Lubrication and Adjustment  
- Cotterless Cranks  
Bottom Bracket  
To adjust the free play in a three piece type bottom bracket, loosen  
the lockring on the left side by turning it counter-clockwise, then turn  
the adjusting cup as required. Re-tighten the lockring taking care not  
to alter the cup adjustment.  
Fixed Cup  
Cotterless Crank removing tool  
To disassemble:  
1. Remove the cranks from the axle.  
2. Remove the left side lockring by turning it counter-clockwise.  
3. Remove the adjusting cup by turning it counter-clockwise.  
4. Remove the left ball retainer and slide the axle out of the frame to  
the left.  
Ball Retainer  
5. Remove the right side fixed cup by turning it counter-clockwise and  
remove the right ball retainer. Clean and inspect all bearing surfaces  
and ball retainers, and replace any damaged parts. Pack the ball  
bearing retainers with grease, then re-assemble in reverse of  
the above procedure.  
Adjusting Cup  
Lockring  
Bottom Bracket  
Shell  
Axle  
Remove the dust cap.  
Cotterless Crank Removal  
To remove cotterless cranks use the following procedure.  
Note that a special tool will be required.  
1. Remove the dust cap with a coin or screwdriver.  
2. Loosen the flange nut or bolt and washer, and remove.  
Loosen and remove  
the flange nut.  
85  
3. Screw the removing tool into the crank and tighten.  
4. Turn the screw bolt down until the crank comes away from  
the axle.  
Screw in the removal tool.  
Turn the screw bolt  
clockwise.  
Cotterless Crank Replacement:  
1. Replace the crank arm onto the axle.  
2. Tap the crank arm lightly with a mallet.  
3. Refit the washer and tighten flange nut or bolt securely to a  
torque of 27Nm.  
4. Replace the dust cover  
Position the crank on the axle.  
Adjustment After Use:  
1. Remove dust cap.  
Lightly tap the crank  
onto the axle.  
2. Tap the crank arm lightly with a mallet.  
3. Re-tighten the flange nuts, and refit the dust caps.  
New cotterless cranks may become loose with initial  
use. Perform the following task after several hours of  
riding, and repeat it two or three times after further  
use. Cranks should then remain tight.  
Tighten the flange nut.  
Replace the dust cap.  
86  
CHAIN  
Rear Sprocket  
Front Chainwheel  
Inspection  
The chain must be kept clean, rust free and frequently lubricated in  
order to extend its life as long as possible. It will require replacement  
if it stretches, breaks, or causes inefficient gear shifting. Make sure  
that there are no stiff links, they must all move freely.  
Pull up  
10 mm  
Straightedge  
Lubrication  
The chain should be lubricated with light oil at least every month, or after use in wet, muddy, or dusty conditions.  
Take care to wipe off excess oil, and not to get oil on the tires or rim braking surfaces.  
Adjustment and Replacement  
On derailleur geared bicycles the rear derailleur automatically tensions the chain.  
To adjust the chain on single speed freewheel, coaster hub braked or 3-speed hub geared bicycles:  
1. Loosen the rear axle nuts (and coaster brake arm clip if fitted) and move the wheel forward to loosen, or backward to  
tighten, in the frame.  
2. When correctly adjusted, the chain should have approximately 10mm of vertical movement when checked in the center  
between the chainwheel and rear sprocket. Center the wheel in the frame and re-tighten the axle nuts after any  
adjustment. Bicycles which have a single speed freewheel, coaster hub brake or 3-speed hub, generally use a wider  
type chain than derailleur geared bicycles. These chains can be disconnected by way of a special U-shape joining link,  
that can be pried off of the master link with a screwdriver. To replace, feed the chain around the chainwheel and rear  
sprocket, fit the master link into the rollers into each end of the chain, position the master link side plate, and slip on the  
U-shaped snap-on plate. Make sure the open end of the U-shaped plate is trailing as the link approaches the  
chainwheel when pedaling forward.  
87  
Derailleur geared bicycles use narrower chains and require a  
special tool to fit and remove chain links, or to change the length.  
To remove, fit the rivet tool so that the punch pin is centered over  
any one of the chain rivets. Push the rivet almost all the way out,  
then back out the punch and remove the tool. Holding the chain  
on both sides of the punched rivet, bend it slightly to release  
link from the rivet. To install, feed chain around chainwheel, rear  
sprocket and derailleur cage with rivet facing away from the bicycle.  
Bring the two ends together within the special tool and punch the  
rivet into place. Be sure not to push rivet too far through side plate.  
Chain Rivet Tool  
FREEWHEEL  
Inspection  
Like the chain, the freewheel must be kept clean and well  
lubricated. If the chain has become worn and needs replacing,  
then it is likely that the freewheel will also have become worn and  
should also be replaced. Take the chain off the freewheel and  
rotate it with your hand. If you hear a grinding noise or the  
freewheel stops suddenly after spinning it, it may need adjustment  
or replacement. Such action is beyond the scope of this manual  
and you should consult a specialist.  
88  
Lubrication  
Brake Arm Clip  
Brake Arm  
Sprocket  
Remove any accumulated dirt from the freewheel with a brush  
and a degreaser. Disassembly of the freewheel is a complicated  
procedure requiring special tools, and should be left to a  
specialist. Apply oil to the freewheel whenever you lubricate the  
chain, taking care to wipe off any excess.  
COASTER HUB  
Many BMX style and other children's bicycles are fitted with a  
coaster hub brake in the rear wheel. This type of brake offers  
the advantages of reliability and easy operation. The brake is  
operated by applying back pedal pressure and allows the rider  
to 'coast' without pedaling, if desired. There are several models  
of coaster hubs available, and the internal mechanisms are very  
complex. They require infrequent attention as far as lubrica-  
tion, adjustment or replacement of internal parts; if needed, this  
should be left to a specialist.  
Keep the coaster hub sprocket clean and oil it along with the chain.  
Make sure the brake arm is correctly attached to  
the chainstay with the brake arm clip. The brake  
will not operate otherwise.  
89  
DERAILLEUR SYSTEMS  
The derailleur system includes the front and rear derailleurs, the shift levers, and the derailleur control cables, all of which  
must function correctly for smooth gear shifting to occur. There are several different types of derailleur systems but all  
operate using similar principles. Your new bicycle may be fitted with a standard 'friction' type system where you will need  
to feel each gear shift into position. It may be fitted with an ‘index’ system (e.g. SIS) which links each different gear position  
to a positive click mechanism in the shifter, and makes shifting very simple and precise. A further development of SIS is  
the fully integrated system (e.g. STI) where the shift lever and brake lever mechanisms form an integrated unit with the  
system allowing both gear shifting and braking to occur at the same time.  
Inspection  
The operation of the derailleur system should be checked at  
least every month. Check the operation of the rear derailleur  
first, then the front. The rear derailleur should shift the chain  
cleanly from one cog to the next without hesitation. On SIS  
equipped bicycles, each notched position in the shifter must  
equate to a new gear position. After shifting, the rear derailleur  
should not rub on the chain. The derailleur should never cause  
the chain to fall off the inner or outer freewheel cogs.  
Pre-stretch the derailleur  
cables to remove slack  
The front derailleur should also shift the chain cleanly and  
without hesitation between each chainring. If your bicycle is  
equipped with front SIS, then each click or stop in the shifter  
should equate exactly to a new gear position. When the chain  
has been positioned onto a new chainring, it should not rub  
on the front derailleur. The chain should not fall off a chainring  
at any time. Derailleur control cables are a critical component  
that must be well maintained for accurate shifting performance.  
Check them for any sign of rust, fraying, kinks, broken strands  
and any damage to the cable housing. If you find any  
Stretch  
problems, the cables may need replacing before you ride.  
90  
Outer side of Top Gear  
Lubrication  
Freewheel  
All the pivoting points of the front and rear derailleurs should be  
lubricated with light oil at least every month. Be sure to wipe off any  
excess oil to prevent attraction of dirt into the mechanisms. The shift-  
ing cables should be cleaned and re-coated with a thin layer of grease  
every six months, or whenever new cables are being installed.  
Pulley Adjustment  
Screw  
Adjustment - Rear Derailleur  
Adjustment  
Screws  
The Low limit screw determines how far the rear derailleur will travel toward the  
wheel of the bicycle, while the High limit screw determines how far the cage will  
travel toward the frame.  
1. Shift the rear shifter to the largest number indicated, disconnect the  
rear derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt and place the chain  
on the smallest sprocket.  
2. Adjust the High limit screw so the chain and the smallest sprocket  
are lined up vertically. Remove any slack in the cable by pulling it  
taut, then re-connect the cable and tighten the cable anchor bolt securely.  
3. Shift up through the gears making sure that each gear is achieved quietly  
and without hesitation.  
SIS Cable Adjuster  
Guide Pulley  
Tension Pulley  
Rear Derailleur Rear View  
High Gear  
Adjustment Screw  
If noise occurs, use the barrel adjuster to fine-tune the cable tension.  
Turning the barrel adjuster clockwise will decrease cable tension and  
allow the derailleur cage to move farther away from the bicycle in small  
increments. Turning counter-clockwise will increase cable tension and  
bring the cage closer to the bicycle. This will micro-adjust the positioning  
of the derailleur cage in relation to the freewheel. Simply put; turn the  
barrel adjuster the direction you want the chain to go.  
Low Gear  
Adjustment Screw  
4. Shift the chain onto the largest sprocket; adjust the low limit screw so the  
chain and the largest cog are lined up vertically. If you are unable to get  
the chain to the largest cog, turning the Low limit screw counter-clockwise  
will enable the chain to move towards the wheel.  
5. Shift through the gears ensuring each gear is achieved quietly and without  
hesitation.  
SIS Cable  
Adjuster  
NOTE: It may take several adjustments to achieve the desired positioning.  
Please refer to the troubleshooting section for more assistance.  
Rear Derailleur Side View  
91  
Adjustment - Front Derailleur  
Low Adjusting Screw  
1. Shift the rear shifter to the smallest number indicated, then shift  
the front shifter to the smallest number indicated. Disconnect the  
front derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt and place the  
chain on the smallest chainwheel.  
High Adjusting  
Screw  
Cable Fixing Bolt  
2. Make sure the front derailleur cage is parallel with the outer  
chainwheel on the crankset. There must be a 1-3mm gap between  
the bottom of the derailleur cage and the top of the outer chainwheel  
teeth to ensure the derailleur will clear the chainwheel when shifting.  
3. Adjust the Low limit screw so the chain is centered in the middle of  
derailleur cage. Pull all slack out of the cable by pulling it taut, then  
reconnect the cable and tighten the cable anchor bolt securely.  
4. Shift the front shifter into the largest gear and pedal the bike so the  
chain jumps to the largest chainwheel. If the chain does not shift  
onto the largest chainwheel, you will need to turn the High limit  
screw counter-clockwise until the chain moves to the largest  
chainwheel. If the chain falls into the pedals, the High limit screw has  
been turned too far. You will need to readjust the High screw  
clockwise in 1/4 turn increments until the chain no longer falls off.  
5. Shift through each gear ensuring all are achieved quietly and without  
hesitation.  
Chainguide  
clearance of  
1-3 mm  
Outer Chainguide  
Inner Chainguide  
6. The barrel adjuster for the front derailleur is located on the shift  
mechanism. Turning clockwise will decrease cable tension and  
allow the front derailleur cage to move away from the bike, while  
turning counter-clockwise will increase tension and bring the cage  
closer to the bike. If you are experiencing problems shifting between  
gears, use the barrel adjuster to fine-tune the cable tension.  
NOTE: It may take several adjustments to achieve the desired positioning.  
92  
QUICK RELEASE LEVERS  
It is important to check the quick release levers before every ride to ensure all connections are made properly  
and securely. Periodically, disassemble the mechanism from the bicycle and inspect for any wear or damage  
and replace if necessary. When reinstalling, it is very important to ensure the connections are made properly.  
Please refer to page 29-30 for the appropriate assembly instructions.  
REFLECTORS  
Your bicycle is supplied with one front (white), one rear (red), two wheel (white), and two pedal (orange)  
reflectors. These are an important safety and legal requirement, and should remain securely fitted and in good,  
clean conditions at all times. Periodically, inspect all reflectors, brackets and mounting hardware for signs of  
wear or damage. Replace immediately if damage is found. Please see pages 12-13 for more information.  
Wear reflective clothing  
when riding.  
Attach a light to your  
bike if you ride at night.  
Reflectors  
Reflectors  
93  
MISCELLANEOUS ACCESSORIES  
Your bicycle might be shipped with accessories that can be added onto you new bicycle. The following will detail how and  
where to attach your micilanious accessories.  
Basket Assembly  
Your bicycle may be supplied with an attachable front  
basket. You must make sure that the basket is attached  
properly.  
First insert the washer onto the 10mm hex head bolt.  
Then insert hex head bolt through the basket, and  
through the basket bracket assembly (on bike). Next,  
insert a second washer onto the bolt and thread a 10mm  
nylox nut onto the bolt behind the basket bracket assem-  
bly. Tighten bolts until snug. Repeat for second bolt.  
See diagram at the right.  
94  
Problem  
Possible Cause  
Remedy  
Gear shifts not working properly  
-
-
-
-
Derailleur cables  
-
-
-
-
Lubricate/tighten/replace cables  
sticking/stretched/damaged  
Front or rear derailleur not adjusted  
properly  
Adjust derailleurs  
Adjust indexing  
Indexed shifting not adjusted properly  
Slipping chain  
Excessively worn/chipped chainring  
or freewheel sprocket teeth  
Chain worn/stretched  
Stiff link in chain  
Non compatible chain/chainring/  
freewheel  
Replace chainring, sprockets and  
chain  
Replace chain  
Lubricate or replace link  
Seek advice at a bicycle shop  
-
-
-
-
-
-
Chain jumping off freewheel  
sprocket or chainring  
-
-
-
-
Chainring out of true  
Chainring loose  
Chainring teeth bent or broken  
Rear or front derailleur side-to-side  
travel out of adjustment  
-
-
-
-
Re-true if possible, or replace  
Tighten mounting bolts  
Repair or replace chainring/set  
Adjust derailleur travel  
Constant clicking noises when  
pedaling  
-
-
-
-
Stiff chain link  
-
-
-
-
Lubricate chain / Adjust chain link  
Adjust bearings/axle nut  
Adjust bottom bracket  
Replace bottom bracket axle or  
pedals  
Loose pedal axle/bearings  
Loose bottom bracket axle/bearings  
Bent bottom bracket or pedal axle  
-
Loose crankset  
-
Tighten crank bolts  
Grinding noise when pedaling  
-
-
-
-
Pedal bearings too tight  
Bottom bracket bearings too tight  
Chain fouling derailleurs  
Derailleur jockey wheels  
dirty/binding  
-
-
-
-
Adjust bearings  
Adjust bearings  
Adjust chain line  
Clean and lubricate jockey wheels  
95  
Problem  
Possible Cause  
Remedy  
Freewheel does not rotate  
-
Freewheel internal pawl pins are  
jammed  
- Lubricate. If problem persists,  
replace freewheel  
Brakes not working effectively  
-
-
-
Brake blocks worn down  
Brake blocks/rim greasy, wet or dirty  
Brake cables are  
- Replace brake blocks  
- Clean blocks and rim  
binding/stretched/damaged  
Brake levers are binding  
Brakes out of adjustment  
- Clean/adjust/replace cables  
- Adjust brake levers  
- Center brakes  
-
-
When applying the brakes  
they squeal/squeak  
-
-
-
-
Brake blocks worn down  
Brake block toe-in incorrect  
Brake blocks/rim dirty or wet  
Brake arms loose  
- Replace blocks  
- Correct block toe-in  
- Clean blocks and rim  
- Tighten mounting bolts  
Knocking or shuddering when  
applying brakes  
-
Bulge in the rim or rim out of true  
- True wheel or take to a bike shop  
for repair  
-
-
Brake mounting bolts loose  
Brakes out of adjustment  
- Tighten bolts  
- Center brakes and/or adjust brake  
block toe-in  
-
Fork loose in head tube  
- Tighten headset  
Wobbling wheel  
-
-
-
-
-
-
Axle broken  
- Replace axle  
- True wheel  
- Adjust hub bearings  
- Adjust headset  
- Replace bearings  
- Adjust QR mechanism  
Wheel out of true  
Hub comes loose  
Headset binding  
Hub bearings collapsed  
QR mechanism loose  
96  
Problem  
Possible Cause  
Remedy  
Steering not accurate  
-
-
-
Wheels not aligned in frame  
Headset loose or binding  
Front forks or frame bent  
-
-
-
Align wheels correctly  
Adjust/tighten headset  
Take bike to a bike shop for possible  
frame realignment  
Frequent punctures  
-
-
-
-
Inner tube old or faulty  
Tire tread/casing worn  
Tire unsuited to rim  
Tire not checked after previous  
puncture  
-
-
-
-
Replace Inner tube  
Replace tire  
Replace with correct tire  
Remove sharp object embedded  
in tire  
-
-
Tire pressure too low  
Spoke protruding into rim  
-
-
Correct tire pressure  
File down spoke  
97  
6. How Things Work  
It’s important to your performance, enjoyment and safety to understand how things work on your bicycle. Even if you’re an  
experienced bicyclist, don’t assume that the way things work on your new bike is the same as how they work on older bikes.  
Be sure to read and to understand this section of the Manual. If you have even the slightest doubt as to whether you under-  
stand something, talk to a qualified specialist.  
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A. Wheel Quick Release  
WARNING: Riding with an improperly adjusted wheel quick release can allow the wheel to wobble or disengage from the bicy-  
cle, causing damage to the bicycle, and serious injury or death to the rider. Therefore, it is essential that you:  
1. Make sure you know how to install and remove your wheels safely.  
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your wheel in place with a quick release.  
3. Each time, before you ride the bike, check that the wheel is securely clamped.  
Invented in the 1930s to allow quick, easy wheel removal without the need for tools, the bicycle wheel quick release has  
become standard equipment on most recreational, sports and competition bicycles. While it looks like a long bolt with a lever  
on one end and a nut on the other, the wheel quick release uses a cam action to clamp the bike’s wheel in place. Because of  
its adjustable nature, it is critical that you understand how it works and how to use it properly.  
CAUTION: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the wheel securely. Holding the nut with one hand and turning  
the lever like a wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp the wheel safely in the  
dropouts.  
1. Adjusting the quick release mechanism  
The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the quick release cam pushing against one dropout and pulling the ten-  
sion adjusting nut, by way of the skewer, against the other dropout. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension  
adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force;  
turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the ten-  
sion adjusting nut can make the difference between safe clamping force and unsafe clamping force.  
NOTE: Once the quick release is installed in the hub axle by the manufacturer or the dealer, it never needs to be removed  
unless the hub itself requires servicing. If the hub requires servicing, consult a qualified specialist.  
98  
2. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices  
Many bicycles have front forks which utilizes a secondary wheel retention device to keep the wheel from disengaging if the  
quick release is incorrectly adjusted. Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correct quick release adjustment.  
Secondary retention devices fall into two basic categories:  
a) The clip-on type is an accessory part which the manufacturer adds to the front wheel hub or front fork.  
b) The integral type is molded, cast or machined into the outer faces of the front fork dropouts.  
Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary retention device on your bike.  
WARNING: Removing or disabling the secondary retention device is extremely dangerous and may lead to serious injury or  
death. It also may void the warranty.  
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3. Removing or Installing Quick Release Wheels  
a) Removing a Quick Release Front Wheel  
(1) Open up the brake shoes.  
(2) Rotate the wheel’s quick-release lever from the locked or CLOSED position to the OPEN position.  
(3) If your front fork does not have a secondary retention device go to step 5.  
(4) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disengage it and go to step (5). If your  
front fork has an integral secondary retention device, loosen the tension adjusting enough to allow removing  
the wheel; then go to step (5).  
(5) Raise the front wheel a few inches off the ground and tap the top of the wheel with the palm of your  
hand to knock the wheel out of the front fork.  
b) Installing a Quick Release Front Wheel  
(1) Rotate the quick-release lever so that it curves away from the wheel. This is the OPEN position.  
(2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork blades so that the axle seats  
firmly at the top of the slots which are at the tips of the fork blades — the fork drop-outs. The quick-release  
lever should be on the left side of the bicycle. If your bike has a clip-on type secondary retention device,  
engage it.  
(3) Holding the quick-release lever in the OPEN position with your right hand, tighten the tension adjusting  
nut with your left hand until it is finger tight against the fork dropout.  
(4) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork dropouts, and at the same time centering  
the wheel rim in the fork, rotate the quick-release lever upwards and push it into the CLOSED position (see  
pages 29-30). The lever should be parallel to the fork blade and curved toward the wheel.  
99  
CAUTION: If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping your fingers around the fork blade for  
leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient.  
Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.  
(5) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the fork blade, return the lever to the  
OPEN position. Then turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try tightening  
the lever again.  
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(6) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears  
the brake shoes.  
WARNING: Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correct quick release adjustment. Failure  
to properly adjust the quick release mechanism can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage, which could  
cause you to lose control and fall, resulting in serious injury or death.  
c. Removing a Quick Release Rear Wheel  
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest, outermost rear sprocket).  
(2) Open up the brake shoes.  
(3) Pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.  
(4) Rotate the quick-release lever to the OPEN position.  
(5) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and, with the derailleur still pulled back, push the wheel  
forward and down until it comes out of the rear dropouts.  
d. Installing a Quick Release Rear Wheel  
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position  
(2) Pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.  
(3) Rotate the quick-release lever to the OPEN position. The lever should be on the side of the wheel  
opposite the derailleur and freewheel sprockets.  
(4) Put the chain on top of the smallest free wheel sprocket. Then, insert the wheel into the frame  
dropouts and pull it all the way in to the dropouts.  
(5) Tighten the adjusting nut until it is finger tight against the frame dropout; then rotate the lever toward  
the front of the bike until it is parallel to the frame’s chainstay or seatstay and is curved toward the wheel.  
CAUTION: If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping your fingers around the fork blade for  
leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient.  
Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.  
(6) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the chainstay or seatstay tube, return  
the lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try  
tightening again.  
100  
(7) Push the rear derailleur back into position.  
(8) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the  
brake shoes.  
4. Removing and Installing Bolt-On Wheels  
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a. Removing a Bolt-On Front Wheel  
(1) Open up the brake shoes.  
(2) With a 15mm box wrench or a six inch adjustable wrench, loosen the two axle nuts.  
(3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disengage it and go to step (4). If your  
front fork has an integral seondary retention device, loosen the axle nuts about six full turns; then go to  
step (4).  
(4) Raise the front wheel a few inches off the ground and tap the top of the wheel with the palm of your  
hand to knock the wheel out of the fork ends.  
b. Installing a Bolt-On Front Wheel  
(1) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork blades so that the axle seats  
firmly at the top of the slots which are at the tips of the fork blades. The axle nut washers should be on the  
outside, between the fork blade and the axle nut. If your bike has a clip-on type secondary retention  
device, engage it.  
(2) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork dropouts, and at the same time center  
ing the wheel rim in the fork, use a six-inch adjustable wrench or a 15mm box wrench to tighten the axle  
nuts as tight as you can.  
(3) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the  
brake shoes.  
c. Removing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel  
(1) Open the rear brake shoes.  
(2) Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest rear sprocket) and pull the derailleur body back with  
your right hand  
(3) With a 15mm box wrench or a six-inch adjustable wrench, loosen the two axle nuts.  
(4) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and, with the derailleur still pulled back, push the wheel  
forward and down until it comes out of the rear dropouts.  
101  
d. Installing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel  
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position and pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.  
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(2) Put the chain on to the smallest sprocket. Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it all  
the way in to the dropouts. The axle nut washers should be on the outside, between the frame and the axle  
nut.  
(3) Tighten the axle nuts as tightly as you can, using a six-inch adjustable wrench or a 15mm box wrench.  
(4) Push the rear derailleur back into position.  
(5) Close the brake; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake  
shoes.  
B. Seatpost Quick Release  
Many mountain bikes are equipped with quick-release seat post skewers. The seatpost quick-release skewer works exactly like  
the wheel quick-release. While a quick release looks like a long bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on the other, the quick  
release uses a cam action to firmly clamp the seat post.  
WARNING: Riding with an improperly tightened seat post can allow the saddle to turn or move and cause you to lose control  
and fall. Therefore:  
1. Make sure you know how to correctly clamp your seat post.  
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your seat post quick release.  
3. Before you ride the bike, first check that the seatpost is securely clamped.  
Adjusting the quick release mechanism  
The action of the quick release cam squeezes the seat collar around the seat post to hold the seat post securely in place. The  
amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping  
the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating  
reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safe clamping force  
and unsafe clamping force.  
CAUTION: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the seatpost securely. Holding the nut with one hand and turning  
the lever like a wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp the seatpost safely.  
CAUTION: If you can fully close the quick release and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the  
tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.  
102  
C. Brakes  
NOTE: For most effective braking, use both brakes and apply them simultaneously.  
WARNING: Sudden or excessive application of the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars, causing serious  
injury or death.  
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1. How brakes work  
It’s important to your safety that you instinctively know which brake lever controls which brake on your bike. In the U.S., bikes  
are required to be set up with the right brake lever controlling the rear brake, and the left lever controlling the front brake.  
The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction between the brake surfaces -- usually the brake shoes and the  
wheel rim. To make sure that you have maximum friction available, keep your wheel rims and brake shoes clean and free of  
lubricants, waxes or polishes.  
Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the brake levers comfortably. If your hands are too small to operate the  
levers comfortably, consult your dealer before riding the bike. The lever reach may be adjustable; or you may need a differ-  
ent brake lever design.  
Most brakes have some form of quick release mechanism to allow the brake shoes to clear the tire when a wheel is removed  
or reinstalled. When the brake quick release is in the open position, the brakes are inoperative. Make sure that you under-  
stand the way the brake quick release works on your bike and check each time to make sure both brakes work correctly  
before you get on the bike.  
Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop the bike. Maximum braking force for each wheel occurs at the  
point just before the wheel “locks up” (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the tire skids, you actually lose most of your  
stopping force and all directional control. You need to practice slowing and stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel.  
The technique is called progressive brake modulation. Instead of jerking the brake lever to the position where you think you’ll  
generate appropriate braking force, squeeze the lever, progressively increasing the braking force. If you feel the wheel begin  
to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating just short of lockup. It’s important to develop a feel for the  
amount of brake lever pressure required for each wheel at different speeds and on different surfaces. To better understand  
this, experiment a little by walking your bike and applying different amounts of pressure to each brake lever, until the wheel  
locks.  
103  
WARNING: Some bicycle brakes, such as linear-pull and disc brakes, are extremely powerful. You should take extra care in  
becoming familiar with these brakes and exercise particular care when using them. Applying these brakes too hard or too sud-  
denly can lock up a wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall.  
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When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, but your body wants to continue at the speed at which it was  
going. This causes a transfer of weight to the front wheel (or, under heavy braking, around the front wheel hub, which could  
send you flying over the handlebars). A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure before lockup; a wheel  
with less weight will lock up with less brake pressure. So, as you apply brakes and your weight shifts forward, you need to shift  
your body toward the rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on to the rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to both  
decrease rear braking and increase front braking force. This is even more important on steep descents, because descents shift  
weight forward. The keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are controlling wheel lockup and weight transfer. Prac-  
tice braking and weight transfer techniques where there is no traffic or other hazards and distractions.  
Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so the wheels have less  
cornering and braking traction and can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake shoes reduces their ability to  
grip. The way to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly to begin with.  
2. Adjusting your brakes  
If either brake lever on your bike fails the Mechanical Safety Check you can restore brake lever travel by turning the brake  
cable adjusting barrel counterclockwise, then lock the adjustment in by turning the barrel’s lock nut clockwise as far as it will  
go. If the lever still fails the Mechanical Safety Check, or you have any question about whether your brakes are working prop-  
erly have your dealer check the brakes.  
D. Shifting  
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain, an internal gear hub drivetrain or, in some special cases, a combina-  
tion of the two.  
1. Why all those gears?  
You will get the greatest fitness benefit, produce the greatest sustained power and have the greatest endurance if you learn to  
spin the pedals at high revolutions per minute (called cadence) against low resistance. You will get the least fitness benefit and  
have the least endurance by pushing hard on the pedals against heavy resistance.  
104  
The purpose of having multiple gears on a bicycle is to let you chose the gear that allows you to maintain your optimum  
cadence under the widest range of riding conditions. Depending on your fitness level and experience (the more fit, the higher  
the cadence), optimum cadence is between 60 and 90 pedal revolutions per minute.  
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2. Shifting a derailleur drivetrain  
If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-changing mechanism will consist of:  
• a rear sprocket cluster, called a freewheel or freewheel cassette  
• a rear derailleur  
• usually a front derailleur  
• one or two shifters  
• one or two control cables  
• one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings  
• a drive chain  
The number of possible gear combinations (“speeds”) is the product of multiplying the number of sprockets at the rear of the  
drivetrain by the number of sprockets at the front (6 x 2 = 12, 6 x 3 = 18, 7 x 3 = 21 and so on).  
a. Shifting Gears  
There are many different types of shifter mechanisms, each preferred for specific types of application  
because of its ergonomic, performance and price characteristics. The designers of your bike have selected  
the shifter design which they believe will give the best results on your bike.  
The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing. A downshift is a shift to a “slower” gear, one which is  
easier to pedal. An upshift is a shift to a “faster”, harder to pedal gear. What’s confusing is that what’s hap  
pening at the front derailleur is the opposite of what’s happening at the rear derailleur (for details, read the  
instructions on Shifting the Rear Derailleur and Shifting the Front Derailleur below). For example, you can  
select a gear which will make pedaling easier on a hill (make a downshift) in one of two ways: shift the  
chain down the gear “steps” to a smaller gear at the front, or up the gear “steps” to a larger gear at the  
rear. So, at the rear gear cluster, what is called a downshift looks like an upshift. The way to keep things  
straight is to remember that shifting the chain in towards the centerline of the bike is for accelerating and  
climbing and is called a downshift. Moving the chain out or away from the centerline of the bike is for  
speed and is called an upshift.  
105  
Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle derailleur system design requires that the drive chain be  
moving forward and be under at least some tension. A derailleur will shift only if you are pedaling forward.  
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1) Shifting the Rear Derailleur  
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter. The function of the rear derailleur is to move the drive chain from one gear  
to another on the rear gear cluster, thereby changing gear drive ratios. The smaller sprockets on the gear cluster produce  
higher gear ratios. Pedaling in the higher gears requires greater pedaling effort, but takes you a greater distance with each  
revolution of the pedal cranks. The larger sprockets produce lower gear ratios. Using them requires less pedaling effort, but  
takes you a shorter distance with each pedal crank revolution. Moving the chain from a smaller sprocket of the gear cluster to  
a larger sprocket results in a downshift. Moving the chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller sprocket results in an upshift. In  
order for the derailleur to disengage the chain from one sprocket and move it on to another, the chain must be moving forward  
(i.e. the rider must be pedaling forward).  
2) Shifting the Front Derailleur:  
The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left shifter, shifts the chain between the larger and smaller chainrings. Shifting  
the chain onto a smaller chainring makes pedaling easier (a downshift). Shifting to a larger chainring makes pedaling harder  
(an upshift).  
b) Which gear should I be in?  
The combination of largest rear, smallest front gears is for the steepest hills. The smallest rear, largest front  
combination is for the greatest speed. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “start-  
ing gear” which is right for your level of ability -- a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy  
enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling — and experiment with upshifting and downshifting to  
get a feel for the different gear combinations. At first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards  
or other traffic, until you’ve built up your confidence. Once you’ve learned the basics, experience will teach  
you which gear is appropriate for which condition, and practice will help you shift smoothly and at precisely  
the optimum moment.  
3. Shifting an internal gear hub drivetrain  
If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the gear changing mechanism will consist of:  
• a 3, 5, 7 or possibly 12 speed internal gear hub  
• one, or sometimes two, shifters  
106  
• one or two control cables  
• one front sprockets called chainrings  
• a drive chain  
a) Shifting internal gear hub gears  
Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of moving the shifter to the indicated position for the  
desired gear. After you have moved the shifter to the gear position of your choice, ease the pressure on the pedals  
for an instant to allow the hub to complete the shift.  
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b) Which gear should I be in?  
The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The numerically largest gear (3, 5, 7 or 12, depending on  
the number of speeds of your hub) is for the greatest speed. Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to a hard  
er, “faster” gear (like 2 or 3) is called an upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear to an easier, “slower” gear is  
called a downshift. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “starting gear” for the conditions -  
- a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling --  
and experiment with upshifting and downshifting to get a feel for the different gears. At first, practice shifting where  
there are no obstacles, hazards or other traffic, until you’ve built up your confidence. Once you’ve learned the  
basics, experience will teach you which gear is appropriate for which condition, and practice will help you shift  
smoothly and at precisely the optimum moment.  
E. Toeclips & Straps  
Toeclips and straps are the traditional means which experienced cyclists use to keep their feet correctly positioned and  
engaged with the pedals. The toeclip positions the ball of the foot over the pedal spindle, which gives maximum pedaling  
power. The toe strap, when tightened, keeps the foot engaged throughout the rotation cycle of the pedal. While toeclips and  
straps give some benefit with any kind of shoe, they work most effectively with cycling shoes designed for use with toeclips.  
Your dealer can explain how toeclips and straps work.  
WARNING: Getting into and out of pedals with toeclips and straps requires skill which can only be acquired with practice.  
Until it becomes a reflex action, the technique requires concentration which can distract the rider’s attention, causing you to  
lose control and fall. Practice the use of toeclips and straps where there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic. Keep the straps  
loose, and don’t tighten them until your technique and confidence in getting in and out of the pedals warrants it. Never ride in  
traffic with your toe straps tight.  
107  
F. Clipless (“step-in”) pedals  
Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”) are the means most racers use to keep their feet securely in the correct  
position for maximum pedaling efficiency. They work like ski bindings ... a plate on the sole of the shoe clicks into a spring-  
loaded fixture on the pedal. Clipless pedals require shoes specifically designed for the make and model pedal being used.  
Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider to adjust the amount of force needed to engage or dis-engage the foot.  
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WARNING: Clipless pedals are intended for use with shoes specifically made to fit them and are designed to firmly keep the  
foot engaged with the pedal. Practice is required to learn to engage and disengage the foot safely. Until engaging and disen-  
gaging the foot becomes a reflex action, the technique requires concentration which can distract the rider’s attention, causing  
the rider to lose control and fall. Practice engaging and disengaging clipless pedals in a place where there are no obstacles,  
hazards or traffic; and be sure that you follow the setup and service instructions and warnings which came with your pedals.  
G. Tires and Tubes  
1. Tires  
Bicycle tires are available in many designs and specifications, ranging from general-purpose designs to tires designed to  
perform best under very specific weather or terrain conditions. Your bicycle has been equipped with tires which the bike’s  
manufacturer felt were the best balance of performance and value for the use for which the bike was intended. If, once you’ve  
gained experience with your new bike, you feel that a different tire might better suit your riding needs, your dealer can help  
you select the most appropriate design.  
The size, pressure rating, and on some high-performance tires the specific recommended use, are marked on the sidewall of  
the tire. The part of this information which is most important to you is Tire Pressure.  
WARNING: Never inflate a tire beyond the maximum pressure marked on the tire’s sidewall. Exceeding the recommended  
maximum pressure may blow the tire off the rim, which could cause damage to the bike and injury to the rider and bystanders.  
The best way to inflate a bicycle tire to the correct pressure is with a bicycle pump.  
CAUTION: Gas station air hoses move a large volume of air very rapidly, and will raise the pressure in your tire very rapidly.  
To avoid overinflation when using a gas station air hose, put air into your tire in short, spaced bursts.  
108  
Tire pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as a pressure range. How a tire performs under different terrain or  
weather conditions depends largely on tire pressure. Inflating the tire to near its maximum recommended pressure gives the  
lowest rolling resistance; but also produces the harshest ride. High pressures work best on smooth, dry pavement. Very low  
pressures, at the bottom of the recommended pressure range, give the best performance on smooth, slick terrain such as  
hard-packed clay, and on deep, loose surfaces such as deep, dry sand. Tire pressure that is too low for your weight and the  
riding conditions can cause a puncture of the tube by allowing the tire to deform sufficiently to pinch the inner tube between  
the rim and the riding surface.  
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CAUTION: Pencil type automotive tire gauges and gas station air hose pressure settings can be inaccurate and should not  
be relied upon for consistent, accurate pressure readings. Instead, use a high quality dial gauge.  
Check inflation as described in you’ll know how correctly inflated tires should look and feel. Some tires may need to be  
brought up to pressure every week or two.  
Some special high-performance tires have unidirectional treads: their tread pattern is designed to work better in one direction  
than in the other. The sidewall marking of a unidirectional tire will have an arrow showing the correct rotation direction. If your  
bike has unidirectional tires, be sure that they are mounted to rotate in the correct direction.  
2. Tire Valves  
The tire valve allows air to enter the tire’s inner tube under pressure, but doesn’t let it back out unless you want it to. There  
are primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves (actually, there are other designs, but they are seldom seen in the US any  
more): The Schraeder Valve and the Presta Valve. The bicycle pump you use must have the fitting appropriate to the valve  
stems on your bicycle.  
The Schraeder is like the valve on a car tire. To inflate a Schraeder valve tube, remove the valve cap and push the air hose  
or pump fitting onto the end of the valve stem. To let air out of a Schraeder valve, depress the pin in the end of the valve  
stem with the end of a key or other appropriate object.  
109  
The Presta valve has a narrower diameter and is only found on bicycle tires. To inflate a Presta valve tube using a Presta  
headed bicycle pump, remove the valve cap; unscrew (counterclockwise) the valve stem lock nut; and push down on the valve  
stem to free it up. Then push the pump head on to the valve head, and inflate. To inflate a Presta valve with a gas station air  
hose, you’ll need a Presta adapter (available at your bike shop) which screws on to the valve stem once you’ve freed up the  
valve. The adapter fits the end of the air hose fitting. Close the valve after inflation. To let air out of a Presta valve, open up the  
valve stem lock nut and depress the valve stem.  
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H. Bicycle Suspension  
Some Mountain Bikes come equipped with suspension systems which are designed to smooth out some of the shocks encoun-  
tered in off-road riding. There are many different types of suspension systems — too many to deal with individually in this  
Manual. If your bicycle has a suspension system of any kind, consult a qualified specialist to provide you with the appropriate  
adjustment and maintenance instructions.  
WARNING: Failure to maintain, check and properly adjust the suspension system may result in suspension malfunction, which  
may cause you to lose control and fall.  
CAUTION: Changing suspension adjustment can change the handling and braking characteristics of your bicycle. Never  
change suspension adjustment unless you are thoroughly familiar with the suspension system manufacturer’s instructions and  
recommendations, and always check for changes in the handling and braking characteristics of the bicycle after a suspension  
adjustment by taking a careful test ride in a hazard-free area.  
CAUTION: Not all bicycles can be safely retrofitted with some types of suspension systems. Before retrofitting a bicycle with  
any suspension, check with the bicycle’s manufacturer to make sure that what you want to do is compatible with the bicycle’s  
design.  
WARNING: If your bike has suspension, the increased speed you may develop also increases your risk. When braking, the  
front of a suspended bike dips. You could lose control and fall if your skill is not up to handling this system. Get to know how to  
handle your suspension system safely before trying any downhill or very fast mountain biking.  
Suspension can increase the handling capabilities and comfort of your bicycle. This enhanced capability may  
allow you to ride faster; but you must not confuse the enhanced capabilities of the bicycle with your own  
capabilities as a rider. Increasing your skill will take time and practice. Proceed carefully until you are sure  
you are competent to handle the full capabilities of your bike. Never ride at a speed or on terrain which is  
not suitable for your personal riding skill and experience. Always proceed cautiously in areas where you are  
not familiar with the terrain. If you exceed your limitations, serious injury or death could occur.  
110  
Purchase Record Card  
Fill in Immediately and retain as a record of your purchase.  
*Please retain your sales receipt for any possible warranty claims.  
Your Name: ______  
Address:_____________________________________________________  
Date Purchased: _______________ Place of Purchase:_____________  
Model & Brand Information:_____________________________________  
Wheel Size: ____________________  
Color: _________________________  
####  
Serial Number:__________________  
Serial Number Location  
111  
LIMITED WARRANTY  
AND POLICY ON REPLACEMENT PROCEDURES AND RESPONSIBILITIES  
Your purchase includes the following warranty which is in lieu of all other express warranties. This warranty is extended only to the initial consumer purchaser. No  
warranty registration is required. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may have other rights which vary from state to state.  
FRAME  
Steel, aluminum and dual suspension frames are guaranteed against faulty materials and workmanship for as long as the initial consumer purchaser has the bicycle, subject to the  
Terms and Conditions of this Limited Waranty. If frame failure should occur due to faulty materials or workmanship during the guarantee period, the frame will be replaced. For  
frame replacement under this Pacific Limited Warranty, contact us, stating the nature of the failure, model number, date received and the name of the store from which the bike was  
received, at the address given on this page. Frame must be returned for inspection at customer's expense. Please note: the fork is not part of the frame. A lifetime warranty on your  
frame does not guarantee that the product will last forever. The length of the useful life cycle will vary depending on the type of bike, riding conditions and care the bicycle receives.  
Competition, jumping, downhill racing, trick riding, trial riding, riding in severe conditions or climates, riding with heavy loads or any other non-standard use can substantially shorten  
the useful product life cycle. Any one or a combination of these conditions may result in an unpredictable failure that is not covered by this warranty. All bicycles and frame sets  
should be periodically checked by an authorized dealer for indications of potential problems, inappropriate use or abuse. These are important safety checks and are very important  
to help prevent accidents, bodily injury to the rider and shortened useful product life cycle.  
PARTS  
All other parts of the unit except Normal Wear Parts are warranted against defective materials and workmanship for as long as the initial consumer purchaser has the bicycle, subject  
to the Terms and Conditions of this Limited Warranty. If failure of any part should occur due to faulty materials or workmanship during the warranty period, the part will be replaced.  
All warranty claims must be submitted to the address below and must be shipped prepaid and accompanied by proof of purchase. Any other warranty claims not included in this  
statement are void. This especially includes installation, assembly, and disassembly costs. This warranty does not cover paint damage, rust, or any modifications made to the bicycle.  
Normal Wear Parts are defined as grips, tires, tubes, cables, brake shoes and saddle covering. These parts are warranted to be free from defects in material and workmanship as  
delivered with the product. Any claim for repair or replacement of Normal Wear Parts (grips, tubes, tires, cables, brake shoes and saddle covering) and missing parts must be made  
within thirty (30) days of the date of purchase. The warranty does not cover normal wear and tear, improper assembly or maintenance, or installation of parts or accessories not  
originally intended or compatible with the bicycle as sold. The warranty does not apply to damage or failure due to accident, abuse, misuse, neglect, or theft. Claims involving these  
issues will not be honored.  
CONDITIONS OF WARRANTY  
1. Your bicycle has been designed for general transportation and recreational use, but has not been designed to withstand abuse associated with stunting and jumping.  
This warranty ceases when you rent, sell, or give away the bicycle, ride with more than one person, or use the bicycle for stunting or jumping.  
2. This warranty does not cover ordinary wear and tear or anything you break accidentally or deliberately.  
3. It is the responsibility of the individual consumer purchaser to assure that all parts included in the factory-sealed carton are properly installed, all functional parts are  
initially adjusted properly, and subsequent normal maintenance services and adjustments necessary to keep the bicycle in good operating condition are properly made.  
This warranty does not apply to damage due to improper installation of parts or failure to properly maintain or adjust the bicycle. NOTICE: Bicycle specifications  
subject to change without notice.  
PACIFIC CYCLE INC  
4902 Hammersley Road  
Madison, WI 53711  
Call Toll Free 1.800.626.2811  
Monday -Friday 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Central Time  
112  

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