2319 Laurelbrook Street, Raleigh, NC 27604 Phone (800)542-7221 Fax (919)834-4526
UP (6-004) 4/05
2/08
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1
Note: Inspect door for smooth rolling and proper balancing before installing Air Powered Operator.
Part 1:BELT INSTALLATION
Step 1
Determine which side of door to install the air
powered operator. 6” of shaft is required
beyond track bracket.
Clearance Requirements
8” of side clearance is required to mount
operator.
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2
Step 2 Installing Sprocket Kit
Position the 1½” spacer (Part No. SP101)
onto the shaft against the bearing as
shown.
Next slide the sprocket (Part No. BSP01)
against the spacer.
Insert key (Part No. K101) of sprocket kit
into the keyway of sprocket and tighten the
set screws.
Set Screws
Installing Tensioner Kit
Before installing the air cylinder, the
tensioner kit must be installed.(Part No.
OT101).
Tension
Rod
Cotter
Pins
Washers (4)
Tensioner Roller
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3
Installing Tensioner Kit
Insert one end of the tensioner rod with
holes into round hole of the track bracket.
Place 1 washer on each side of bracket and
add cotter pins (Part No. DF330).
Place tensioner roller on rod (as shown).
End support bracket will be installed after
hanging the operator. Proceed to Step 3.
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4
Step 3
Speed Control Kit (Part No. TC2002)
Install speed control kit to the
operator. (Part No. TC2002).
Installing Speed Control Kit
Before installing the speed control
kit to the operator, place the
operator flat on floor with the red
plugs facing up. Remove red
plugs from the air powered
operator.Insert brass elbows
(Part No. AP1080B) into
ports of both cylinders where red
plugs were removed.
Tighten elbows slightly with 9/16
open-end wrench. Attach speed
control valve at top of operator
bracket with (2) two each
10x24x3/8 machine screws.
As shown on Page 5
See next page for
Larger Image
After installing valves stretch air
lines from top to bottom elbows,
cutting air lines ¾” longer than
bottom elbow. Attach air lines as
shown.
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5
10 x 24 x 3/8 Machine Screws
Speed Control Valve with bracket
Step 4 Attaching Belt to Operator
NOTE: Remove clamp assembly CL-102
from belt before installing belt onto
operator.
Operator Belt
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6
Remove belt roller (Part No. OP01) from
center of operator. (roller is attached when
operator is shipped from factory)
Slide bottom of turnbuckle onto rod closest
to the wall leaving ½” of rod above
turnbuckle (Part No. CL100). Tighten bolts
of turnbuckle down onto rod and reinstall
Belt Roller on operator.
NOTE: Turnbuckle will always be installed
on rod that is closest to the wall
Hanging Operator
Step 5
Note: Insure door is fully closed before
hanging operator.
Hang operator from the belt by placing the
belt around the sprocket and behind
Tensioner Roller, as shown.
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7
Install end support bracket (Part No.
BB103A) on door shaft. Making sure
tensioner rod goes through hole of end
support bracket. Attach end support
bracket to wall before attaching operator
to vertical track.
Completed Tensioner Kit will be as
shown.
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8
Attach top and bottom of the operator to the vertical track with self-tapping screws. ( As seen in figures J and K on pg. 8 )
1/4 x 1"
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Step 6 Setting Open and Close Door Limits
Begin by removing ½” nut from top of turnbuckle – (Item ‘A’)
Lower nut (Item 'C') down until desired tightness is achieved.
Using ½” open end wrench tighten nut (Item ‘B’) until belt is snug
After achieving desired tightness, install nut (Item ‘A’) back onto assembly
And tighten both item ‘A’ and Item ‘C’
Item ‘A’
Item B
CL101
Item ‘C’
Step 7
Raise door manually to height of desired
operation -- For example, if you want door to
open 8 feet, raise bottom of door to be 8’ off
finished floor.
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Rod with turnbuckle (Part No. CL100 and
CL101) will rise when opening the door
Thus after opening door to desired height,
the rod closest to the wall will be extended
out of the cylinder
Now we will attach Part No. ‘CL102’ to the
rod that is not extended out of the cylinder
Your open and close door limits are set. You
are now ready for control box installation.
(See Part 3)
Completed Operator set up view.
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11
Installation
Of
Chain
Drive
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Part 2:INSTALLING CHAIN DRIVE
STEP 1
NOTE: Before beginning installation
make sure you have chain roller set-up
(Part No. AP1325).
Determine which side of the door you are
installing the air operator on; you will need at
least 6” of shaft beyond track bracket for
installing air-powered operator with chain.
See Figure A.
STEP 2
Position the chain sprocket assembly ( part # spk 1000
) onto shaft against bearing as shown in figure B. Do
not tighten set screws until you have hung operator
around sprocket.
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Step 3
Installing Chain
Lay air powered operator on floor with red plugs facing up. Remove chain roller (Part No. AP1325) from top of operator See Figures C & D. If you
are installing operator on right hand side of door, install turnbuckle of chain on the rod that is closest to the wall. Insert chain around bottom of roller
(Part No. AP1325), attach roller back onto operator with threaded rod of turnbuckle, ½” above piston rod. See Figure E.
Note: Turnbuckle will
Chain
ALWAYS be installed on
Roller
the rod that is closest to the
wall.
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Step 4
Before hanging air-powered operator, install speed control kit (Part No. TC2002). Locate kit with speed control valves, elbows, and two remaining
elbows of sprocket kit. Remove red plugs from air powered operator insert brass elbows See Figure F. Tighten slightly with 9/16 open-end wrench.
Attach speed control valve at top of operator bracket with (2) two each 10x24x3/8 machine screws (provided) as shown in Figure G. After installing
valves stretch air lines to bottom elbows, cutting air lines ¾” longer than top of elbow. Attach air lines as shown in Figure H.
Speed Control Kit
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Step 5
Hang chain of air powered operator around chain sprocket. Align operator with vertical track and align sprocket with operator. Tighten all set screws
on sprocket and collars of sprocket assembly, add support bracket (Part No. BB103A) before attaching operator to vertical track. See Figures I & J.
Sprocket Assembly (Part No. SPK1000)
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Step 6
Attach operator to vertical track after it is aligned with
sprocket and operator hangs straight down using self-
taping screws. See Figure K. Tighten chain with
turnbuckle. After chain is tight, lock turnbuckle into place
with ½” nut on threaded rod. See Figure L. Slide one
enclosed clamp assembly Part No. AP1055 so that ¾” of
the rod extends above the clamp assembly as shown in
Figure M. Tighten all bolts.
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Rod with turnbuckle (Part No. CL100 and
CL101) will rise when opening the door
Thus after opening door to desired height,
the rod closest to the wall will be extended
out of the cylinder
Now attach Part No. ‘CL102’ to the
rod that is not extended out of the cylinder
Your open and close door limits are set. You
are now ready for control box installation.
ULTIMATE PRODUCTS INC.
PHONE: (800)
Completed Chain Operator set up, see
Page 35.
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18
Part 3:
B.
Install the control
Mounting and Electronic Control Box:
A.
There are several different control options
available for your air-powered operator,
depending on how you would like to control
your door.
1.
Before installing control box (seen below),
install all regulators, dryers etc.
Choices are as follows:
Air line dryer
DC1000: Manual, lever-operated, 3-position
air valve.
DC4000: 24V Control Box that only works
when the electricity is on. It Does NOT
HAVE buttons.
DC5000: 24V Control Box that only works
when electricity is on. Has buttons.
2.
Install control box near operator and 110V
power supply. If not possible, the control box
can be installed in equipment rooms, attics etc.
Installing a Quick Dump Exhaust may be
needed depending on the distance between the
control box and the operators. The control box
should be mounted 4-5 ft off finished floor
with proper anchors. (See below)
DC6000: 24V Pneumatic control box that will
work without electricity by drawing upon the
air built up in the compressor.
DC7000: 120V Pneumatic control box that
will work without electricity by drawing upon
the air built up in the compressor. Has large,
red emergency buttons.
Note: Control Boxes require 110V AC power
unless specified on the unit
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Part 4:
Installing Air Lines
B.
A.
Install a single 3/8” air line from compressor
(or closest air source) to the air line dryer on
the control box.(see figure below)
1. Connect air line at control box.
2. Connect top port of control box to 90 degree
elbow on cylinder closest to wall with airline.
(see below)
Air line Dryer
To Compressor
3. Connect bottom port of control box to elbow on
cylinder farthest away from wall. ( See below)
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20
Part 5:
Part 6a: U Series
Testing Operator and Control Box
Door speed adjustments and fine
tuning
Note: Every Step must be completed before
connecting the signal-sending devices.
Note: Only for U Series operators
A. Door slows down too soon when opening.
A. Plug the control box into 110V AC outlet.
Step 1- Locate the speed control valves at the
top of the operator. The speed control valve
farthest from the wall controls up.
( See below )
B. Pull up black knob on top of Regulator.
Turn knob clockwise to increase air pressure.
(See below)
Note: Recommended pressure varies between
60-100 PSI
Down
UP
Step 2- With a small flat head screw driver,
turn thread post on speed control valve ¼ turn
counter clockwise. Open the door to see if
door has desired cushioning. Repeat this step
until satisfied with setting. Lock setting into
place with nut around threaded post.
( See below )
C. Press open or close on the control box to
begin operating the door.
Note: If door operates opposite of what
controls indicate, Turn air pressure off at
regulator and reverse the two air lines at
cylinders.
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Part 6a: U Series
Part 6b: S Series
Door speed adjustments and fine
Door speed adjustments and fine
tuning continued.
Note: Only for U series operators
tuning
Note: Only for S series operators
B. Door slows too soon when closing
A. Door Slows Down too Soon When
Opening:
Step 1- Speed control valve closest to wall
controls down. Follow same procedure as
Part A, Step 2.
1. Locate the airflow control screw on the
bottom of the up cylinder (farthest from the
wall).
2. Turn the airflow control valve one complete
turn counter clockwise or until the door
operates properly.
C. Door opens slowly and closes rapidly.
Step 1- If counter weights are available, add
more weight if necessary. For doors with
springs you may need to add more tension.
Note: Use caution: Unscrewing too far will
cause it to come out. When screwing it back
in, pay attention to the two holes adjacent to
each other on the bottom cap. Placing the
screw in the wrong hole causes the loss of the
cushioning effect. The correct hole has
threads.
D. Door goes halfway and stops
Step 1- Check the door itself to make sure
nothing is binding the door. Also check speed
control valves to make sure they are adjusted
properly.
B. Door Opens too Quickly (Bangs or Slams
Into Upper Limit):
1. Locate the airflow control screw on the
bottom of the up cylinder (farthest from the
wall).
2. Turn the airflow control screw one
complete turn clockwise or until the door
operates properly.
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22
Part 6b: S Series
F. Door is Jerky or Needs a Boost to Get
Started:
Door adjustments and fine tuning
continued
Note: Only for S series operators
1.Check the door itself. Make certain the
rollers, track and torsion springs are lubricated
and not binding. If you have counterweights,
make sure that they are balanced. Also check
the bottom of the operator for air leaks. When
the door is stationary, you should not hear air
leaking.
C. Door Slows too Soon When Closing:
1. Locate the airflow control screw on the
bottom of the down cylinder (closest to the
wall).
2. Turn the airflow control screw one
complete turn counter clockwise or until the
door operates properly
G. Door Goes Partway and Stops:
Note: Use caution: Unscrewing too far will
cause it to come out. When screwing it back
in, pay attention to the two holes adjacent to
each other on the bottom cap. Placing the
screw in the wrong hole causes the loss of the
cushioning effect. The correct hole has
threads.
1. Check for air leaking from the bottom of
the cylinder. A stationary door should not
have any air leaking from it.
2. If air is leaking, the piston needs new seals.
Call UPI at 1(800)542-7221 for a seal kit.
3. If there is no air leaking, check the collars
that hold the chain/belt to the piston rod, or
the sprocket that connects the chain/belt to the
door shaft. One or the other may be slipping.
4. Check the door for binding.
D. Door Closes too Quickly (Slams Into
Floor):
5. Check the tension shaft bearings to see if
they are working.
6. Check the needle valves to make sure they
are not too tight.
1. Locate the airflow control screw on the
bottom of the down cylinder (closest to the
wall).
2. Turn the airflow control screw one
complete turn clockwise or until the door
operates properly.
H .Door Goes Up and Down Slowly:
1.On the bottom cap of the cylinder, there is a
breather vent screwed into the cap. This
allows air into the cylinder when the piston is
moving upwards. The breather vent has a
small check ball floating above it. If the check
ball sticks or the breather vent gets clogged,
the operator will not function properly. It may
operate slower than usual, stop partway, or
slam when opening or closing. Use a 7/16”
wrench to remove the breather vent. Make
certain the ball is free-floating and the
E. Door Goes Up Slowly and Comes Down
Rapidly:
1. Check the door spring torsion. The springs
may need tightening or may be broken. If you
have counterweights, make sure that they are
properly balanced and weighted.
2. If the springs are fine and the door is
properly balanced, check the breather vent on
the bottom of the air cylinders. The ball on top
of the breather vent should be free to float
with the air flow and the vent should be clean.
breather vent is not clogged. Clean it using a
solvent and an air hose, or call UPI at
1(800)542-7221to order a new breather vent.
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23
Part 7:
Part 8:
Install Signal Senders
Troubleshooting
The troubleshooting section covers problems
for a door that will not move. If your door is
working, but not to your satisfaction, go to
Part 6--Door Speed Adjustments and Fine-
Tuning.
A.
At this point the door, the operator, and the control box
should work. The installation of signal senders is
complicated and where the most problems gener-
ally occur. Be sure to follow these directions
carefully. Signal senders include: hose switches,
pull cords, electric eyes, magnetic loop detectors,
radio remotes, reversing edges or any combination
of these.
There are only 5 areas of trouble:
The door and its hardware
The operator and its connections
The control box and the air valve
The air compressor and the air line
The signal senders
B.
Use common bell or thermostat wire to connect the
signal senders to the automatic control box. All of
these devices use 24 volts AC. It may be necessary
to have a licensed electrician install these controls.
Check local building ordinances.
A.
Have someone operate the door and listen for
air which exhausts through the valve mounted
in the control box.
C.
1. If you hear air, the problem is in the door or the
operator. See 8B--Fixing Door or Operator Prob-
lems.
2. If you do not hear air, the problem is in the
controls. Go to 8C--Fixing Control Problems.
Connect no more than one signaling device at a time.
Make certain that each device works independently
before connecting the next one.
Note: If you have trouble with installation, call Ultimate
Products at 1(800)542-7221 between 9A.M. and 5P.M.
EST for free advice. After 5, leave a voice-mail
message and your call will be returned the next
business day.
B.
Fixing Door or Operator Problems
1. Check the operator and the chain or belt. If the
operator piston moves up and down when operated
and the door doesn’t move, the problem is in the
connection between the door shaft and the sprocket
(slipping sprocket), or the chain/belt and the piston
shaft (loose chain/belt, collar or broken chain/belt).
2. If the pistons don’t move when the door is operated
and it is expelling air, either the air pressure is not
set high enough to raise the door, or the door is
binding. Check the air-pressure gauge on the
control box. It should be about 50-60PSI. Increase
the air pressure about 5PSI at a time until the door
moves. Do not exceed 90PSI. If the door still
doesn’t move, listen for air leaks near the operator.
There should not be air leaking when the door is
stationary. If it is leaking, go to Part 11--Rebuild
Kits.
3. If the door is still not moving then the problem is
with the door itself or the hardware. Visually check
the door for a broken spring, uneven counterbal-
ances, binding track, or bent rollers. If nothing is
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4. Check the motion of the door. Turn the air pressure
to zero and push the controls up and down a few
times to expel any air left in the system. Manually
raise the door. Go slowly and do no not force the
door up -- air is being expelled form the bottom
cylinder. If the door moves normally, go to step 5.
Deluxe Control Box--Jump a wire between terminals
13 and 15: the door should open. Jump a wire
between 14 and 15: the door should close. If the
door does not move there is probably a conflicting
signal from one of the other devices. Try discon-
necting a single set of wires (from one signal
device) at a time. Try the control box each time you
disconnect a set of wires. When the door works,
the disconnected device is the problem. If jumping
the wires in the control box does not move the door
when all of the devices have been disconnected call
UPI at 1(800)542-7221 to order a new control box.
5. Loosen the turnbuckle that holds the chain/belt loop
together. Remove the chain/belt from the sprocket
on the door shaft. Remember the position of the
piston rods so readjustment will not be needed
when the chain/belt is put back on.
Manually move the door open and down. If it moves
easily the problem is within the cylinders of the
operator. If not, turn off the air cylinder--the door
needs repair. Call UPI at 1(800)542-7221.
If the door is moving easily, pull each piston out of
the cylinders as far as possible and compare their
lengths. They should be equal. Push the pistons as
far into the cylinder as possible. Again, the lengths
should be equal. The piston rods will not move
easily as air is entering or exiting the valve at the
bottom of the cylinder.
If the piston lengths are not equal or if they will not
move, then the problem is either in the cylinder or
the pistons. Call UPI at 1(800)542-7221 to order a
rebuild kit or to arrange to send the operator back
for rebuilding.
C.
Fixing Control Problems
Caution: Do not operate, adjust, or perform
installation or maintenance on any part of the system
without first disabling all electrical power to the
system. Use extreme care to prevent electrical shock
when working in a wet environment.
1. If there was no air-exhaust noise when an attempt
was made to open the door make certain the filter/
regulator gauge on the control box is between 60
and 90PSI. Do not use the gauge on the air com-
pressor -- the air line may be blocked between the
compressor and operator making the gauge inaccu-
rate.
2. Determine if the problem is the signal-sending
device or the control box. First check the control
boxes:
Standard Control Box--Disconnect all wires from the
terminals (some setups have a switch to do this
within the system). Jump a wire between the
common and open terminals: the door should open.
Jump a wire between common and close: the door
should close. If this happens, then the problem is in
the signal-sending device. If nothing happens, call
UPI at 1(800)542-7221.
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25
Part 9:
Part 10:
Automatic Oiler Adjustment
Cable Jumping
ONLY USE WITH MODEL "S" OPERATORS
A.
A.
Using a 10-weight, non-detergent oil, fill the oiler
through the top cap (similar to a lawn mower oil
cap) or remove the bottom bowl. Do not use
antifreeze or heavy weight oil.
Door cable is jumping:
A shaft-type operator depends upon gravity to bring the
door down. If the shaft starts unwinding, and the
door does not move the cable will form a loop on the
drum and come off it. This will happen during
sudden direction reversals, when the door freezes
open, or if the door hits something before fully
closed.
B.
Adjustments to the oil flow are made by turning the
cap on top of the oiler. A turn to the (+) direction
increases the oil flow; a turn to the (-) direction
decreases oil flow. One drop of oil should appear in
the glass bulb on top of the oiler every time the door
cycles.
B.
Putting the cable back on the drum:
1. Turn the air pressure off.
C.
2.Disconnect the chain or belt from the operator.
Keep the oiler filled at all times.
Note: Leave the oiler about 1/4 of the way open.
3. Secure the door in a fixed position with a vise-grip
under a roller. It is easiest to do this when the door
is a few inches above the floor.
4. Use a pipe wrench to twist the door shaft against
the spring or counterweight just enough to get the
cable back on the drum.
Caution: Never loosen the spring or remove the cable
from the drum. There are several hundred pounds of
tension on this cable, and severe bodily injury can
occur.
5. If the cable will not go back on the drum, call UPI at
1(800)542-7221.
C.
Cable jumping solutions:
1. Raise the track: Raise the rear of the horizontal
track several inches. This will give the door a slight
downward incline and help it get started down.
2. Don’t open the door all the way: Do not open the
door to its maximum height. This will conserve heat
and acts as if the door has a high-lift track. The top
limit is easily adjusted by changing the connection
point where the operator is attached to the chain or
belt.
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26
3. Lower the air pressure: Lower the air pressure to the
operator. The door will not operate as quickly and
the shock of the immediate reversal of the door
won’t loosen the cables.
4. Restrict the air flow: Install a valve in the air line to
restrict the airflow. This will slow the reaction time of
the door and still maintain the desired air pressure.
5. Balance the door: Balance the door by checking
spring tension or counterweight. If the springs are
wound too tightly, or the counterweight is too heavy,
the door may not come down properly and cable
could get slack.
6. Cable keepers: This is a spring that attaches to the
bottom roller shaft and hooks to the cable. It
requires 11/4 inches of space between the door and
the track.
7. Pusher springs: Pusher springs give a door stuck in
the horizontal position a shove to get it started.
These are available from most door companies, or
call UPI at 1(800)542-7221.
27
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Typical Control Box Set-Up
AA1130 - Noise Mufflers
AP1450
Air Filter
Regulator
AP1079
Brass Bushing Reducer
AP1077C (Metal) – as shown
AP1077 (plastic) – Not Pictured
APF1450
Heavy Duty
Filter
(DC6000 pictured)
AA1130 - Noise Mufflers
AP1081
Brass Nipple
Part #
AA1130
Description
Noise Muffler
3/8"x 1/8" Male adapter quick
connect (Metal)- used on air filter
regulator - PC 3/8 N01
AP1077C
3/8"x 1/8" Male adapter quick
connect (Plastic)
AP1077
AP1079
AP1081
AP1450
APF1450
1/4" x 1/8" Brass bushing reducer
1/8" x 1 1/2" Long brass nipple
Filter / regulator complete
Heavy Duty Filter
Home of the Best Buy Guarantee!
Ultimate Products, Inc.
Raleigh, NC
Toll Free: 800.542.7221 Fax: 919.834.4526
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31
Photo Amplifier Wiring Directions
Common Open
Close
24V
Ground
(To 10)
(To 3)
(To 4)
(To 6)
(To 8)
Yellow
(To 7)
(To 5)
Blcak
Red
Shield
Light
Transmitter
Light
Receiver
21 6
24
22
Note:
The light transmitter is
identified by the red
7
5
32
12
8
4
and black leads; the
light receiver is
identified by the yellow
and shielded leads.
9
3
34
14
10
B
2
A
31 111
11
(Common to 1&2)
ZVE1 -- Photo Amplifier Socket
Connections for Relay Output
Relay Output
LT
LR
=
+
2
-
7
black
schwartz
5 6 8
1 3 4
red rol yellow shield
10
gelb
schirm
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Limit Switch Wiring and Mounting
Track
Top of door
Lead side
of limit
switch &
1/2”
Magnet & L-bracket
bracket
Step 2:
Step 3:
Black wire goes to
Step 1:
3 on electric eye
Remove existing wire on
amplifier between terminal 3
and open
s
amplifier.
Red wire goes
to open on
control box
terminal strip.
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33
Wiring Diagram for Magnetic Loop
Black
24Vac
Close
White
Yellow
Open
Blue
Common
Brown
Grey
6-8 feet
2-3 feet
Cut one groove and put wires on top of
each other starting at the detector.
Follow the groove to the rectangle and
go around it three times, one on top of
the other then back to the detector. You
end up with two wires at the detector
which go to grey and brown.
Suggested Installation of Magnetic Loop
Concrete Pad
Loop
6-8 feet
2-3 feet
Wires to box
40 inches
Wall
Door
Car Wash Bay
The loop needs to be wire-strapped
to wire mesh in the concrete.
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34
Wiring Diagram: Finder Timer to Control Box
!!DISCONNECT POWER BEFORE PROCEEDING!!
1. Timer is supplied pre-wired to the accompanying relay and is mounted on Din Rail.
2. Unplug Photo Amplifier from Amplifier Base.
3. Unclip Amplifier Base from existing Din Rail.
4. Remove existing Din Rail by removing the two screws that attach it to the back panel.
5. Install new Din Rail with Timer attached to the back panel. (Screws are self-drilling and self-
tapping)
6. Reattach Amplifier Base to Din Rail.
7. Connect the 4 labeled wires to the appropriate terminals
(Black) Timer terminal #18 to CLOSE terminal on terminal block
(Blue) Timer terminal #A1 to 24V terminal on terminal block
(Red) Timer terminal #A2 to COMMON terminal on terminal block
(Black) Relay terminal #A2 to Amplifier Base terminal #4
Timer #1 – Set timer #1 for enough time for car to exit and clear. For example: Scale .05-1.0 minutes and
turn dial to maximum setting (10).
Timer #2 – Set timer #2 on lowest scale (0.05-1.0 seconds) and turn dial to maximum setting (10).
Red Dip Switch set in up position.
Amplifier Base
4
TIMER
RELAY
A1
A1
18
A2
11
B1
15
TERMINAL BLOCKS
A2
COM
OPEN
CLOSE
24V
12
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35
Operator with Belt
Operator with Chain
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36
1. retaining rod — 8’ ( AP1354), 10’ (AP1355),
12’ (AP1356), or 14’ (AP1357)
2. tube — anodized steel — 8’ (AP1720), 10’
(AP1721), 12’ (AP1722), or 14’ (AP1723)
— non-anodized steel — 8’ (AP1701), 10’
(AP1702), 12’ (AP1703), 14’ (AP1704)
3. “o” ring — AP1004
4. check ball
— nickel — AP1064
— stainless steel — AP1065
5. bottom cap
— Delrin — AP1058
— PVC — AP1059
6. lock washer — AP1352
7. 1/4” nut — AP1353
8. breather vent — AP1060
9. metering screw — AP1070
10. bottom mounting bracket
— galvanized — AP1380
— stainless steel — AP1384
11. brass nut — AP1350
12. 3/8” X 1/4” reducing elbow —AP1075
13. piston rod seal — AP1002
22. top mounting bracket
— galvanized — AP1381
— stainless steel — AP1385
14. bracket bolt
— galvanized — AP1330
— stainless steel — AP1389
23. retaining rod nut — AP1350
15. chain guide bolt
24. piston rod seal retainer — AP1003
— galvanized — AP1328
— stainless steel — AP1388
25. top cap
— PVC — AP1001
— aluminum — AP1006
16. collar set screw — AP1057
17. aluminum collar — AP1055
18. collar sleeve — AP1326
19. 1/4” lock nut — AP1329
20. chain roller — AP1325
26. “o” ring — AP1004
27. piston rod — 8’ (AP1302), 10’ (AP1303), 12’
(AP1304), 14’ (AP1306)
28. piston body
— PVC — AP1214
— stainless steel — AP1200
21. chain guide bracket
— galvanized — AP1327
— stainless steel — AP1387
29. “u” cup
— 6 cups — AP1211
— 1 cup — AP1210
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37
Architectural Guide for Air-Power
Operator System
Control Box
— Power Supply :
110V Plug in type. Solenoid valve available in 24V or 110V. Always 24V unless
specified otherwise.
— Model:
DC1000: Lever-operated, three-position air valve.
DC4000: Control box that only works when the electricity is on (no buttons).
DC5000: Control box that only works when the electricity is on.
DC6000: Control box that will work without electricity by drawing upon the air built-up in the compressor.
DC7000: Line voltage emergency open red button. Used with Autec equipment
Note: Control boxes interface with all car wash equipment and operate by pulse.
— Mounting:
Control Box may be mounted in the wash or equipment room. Specify a quick-dump exhaust AA1210
(additional cost) if the control box is more than 40 feet away from the air compressor.
— Dimensions:
DC1000: 8 1/4 inches tall, 6 inches deep, 3 1/4 inches wide
DC4000: 11 1/2 inches tall, 6 inches deep, 10 1/2 inches wide
DC5000: 11 1/2 inches tall, 6 inches deep, 10 1/2 inches wide
DC6000: 12 inches tall, 6 3/4 inches deep, 10 3/4 inches wide
DC7000: 11 1/2 inches tall, 7 inches deep, 9 1/2 inches wide
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38
Operators
— Air Usage:
Uses 0.4 cubic feet of air to open and 0.4 cubic feet of air to close.
— Air Pressure:
Regularly set for 40-90 PSI.
— Air Line:
3/8 inch PolyFlow line
— Operator Placement:
The operator is normally mounted to the side of the track (either side).
For extremely cold climates, the operator may be mounted on the horizontal track.
— Drive Mechanism:
The rod coming out of operator is attached to chain or belt by collars and the
chain/belt goes around a sprocket on the shaft.
A Model — A mild-steel chain. Use with non-corrosive environments.
S Model — Nickel-plated chain
UA Model — Belt: Steel-embedded polymer belt, similar to a motorcycle timing belt.
— Operator Lifting Ability:
An 8 foot operator indicates that the operator will raise the door 8 feet high: a 10 foot operator lifts 10 feet high, a
12 foot operator raises the door 12 feet high, and a 14 foot operator lifts the door 14 feet high.
— Dimensions:
8 foot operator — 58 1/4 inches tall, 4 3/4 inches deep, 6 1/2 inches wide
10 foot operator — 68 1/4 inches tall, 4 3/4 inches deep, 6 1/2 inches wide
12 foot operator — 78 1/4 inches tall, 4 3/4 inches deep, 6 1/2 inches wide
14 foot operator — 88 1/4 inches tall, 4 3/4 inches deep, 6 1/2 inches wide
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39
Maintenance Guide For Air-Powered
Operators and Illuminator Doors
Superior or Economy Air-Powered Operators
Operators with chains
1. At least once every three months, lubricate the chain with a thick, gel-type grease. Do not use spray
lubricants.
2. Make sure that the chain is not loose. Tighten the chain using a turnbuckle if needed. Do not over-tighten.
3. Grease the top cap of the operator with a good-quality lithium grease.
4. Periodically check for leaking seals. Use soapy water to see if bubbles form where the rod enters the cylinder.
If the seals are leaking, purchase a rebuild kit (AP1015) or a complete top cap (AP1005).
5. Check the needle valve in the bottom cap for residue build up.
6. Once a year: Replace the bottom cap breather vent (AP1060) and check ball (AP1065).
7. Drain the air compressor every day, or install a spitter or drain valve.
Ultimate Air-Powered Operator
Operators with belts
1. Tighten the belt once a year. Tighten by adjusting the turnbuckle. Do not over-tighten.
2. Make sure that the belt is aligned on the sprocket properly. This prevents wear.
3. At least once a year, apply lithium grease to the fitting on the top cap to lubricate the inside seals. More
frequent greasing will extend the life of the seals.
4. Periodically check for leaking seals. Use soapy water to see if bubbles form where the rod enters the cylinder.
If the seals are leaking, purchase a rebuild kit (AP1015) or a complete top cap (AP1005).
5. Check the needle valve in the bottom cap for residue build up.
6. Once a year: Replace bottom cap breather vent (AP1060) and check ball (AP1065).
7. Drain the air compressor every day, or install a spitter or drain valve.
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40
Cylinder Oiling
Operators with Automatic Oilers:
1. Set automatic oiler for one drop of oil for each complete cycle.
2. Keep oil bowl full at all times.
3. If water mixes with the oil, pour the oil out. Drain the air compressor and refill the bowl.
Operators without Oiler:
1. Reduce air pressure to zero.
2. Fully extend piston rod out of the cylinder by opening or closing the door.
3. Remove air line from the cylinder.
4. Fill a section (approx. six inches) of the air line with a lightweight (10 wt), non-detergent oil. Call (800)542-
7221 to order this oil (AA1220). Phillips Petroleum — Magnus A-32 and Mobil Oil DTE-13M are equivalents.
5. Reconnect air line, cycle the operator and repeat the procedure on the opposite cylinder.
6. Return pressure to proper setting.
7. This should be done at least every two months for maximum performance and longevity. Oiling more
frequently will extend the life of the operator.
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41
Seal Kit Procedures for
Air-PoweredOperators
Items included in the kit:
6 U-cups
4 Piston Rod Seals
4 O-Rings
2 Breather Vents
2 Check Balls
2 Metering Screws
2 Seal Retainers
Tools and materials needed:
Rags
Lightweight Oil
Screwdriver
7/16” and 9/16” Wrenches
Vise-grip
Lightweight Hammer
U-cup Seals
1. Close the door and turn off the air to the operator. Note: The front piston is extended and the rear piston is
down. When remounting the operator, make sure the pistons are back in the same position.
2. Disconnect the air lines from the operator.
3. Remove the operator from the track: Unscrew the two bolts holding the brackets to the
track and take the chain or belt off the sprocket on the door shaft at the top of the opening. Leave the chain or
belt on the operator.
4. Lay the chain or belt and the operator down together and disconnect the chain or belt from the piston shafts
by loosening the set screws in the collars, and sliding the collars off the piston shafts.
5. Unscrew the bolts on the bottom of the 5 retaining rods that run the length of the operator. You will have to
keep the rods from turning by using a vise-grip or pliers.
6. Remove the piston from the cylinders by pushing down on the piston rods forcing the bottom cap out of the
cylinder. Clean the inside of the cylinders by pushing a lightly oiled rag through it with the piston rod.
7. Remove the old U-cup seals from the piston and clean the piston thoroughly. Note the location of the seals.
8. Put the new U-cup seals on the piston.
9. Put everything back together. When tightening the retaining rods, make sure they are tightened equally. Put
the operator back on the track remembering to extend the front piston rod and to have the rear piston rod 1/2”
from bottoming out.
10. Before reconnecting the air line, inject 8 to 10 inches of 10wt, non-detergent oil into the air line. Reattach the
air lines and cycle the door.
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42
Piston Rod Seals
1. Follow steps 1-5 above.
2. Remove the top cap from the operator by tapping it off and then sliding it off the piston rod.
3. Put the top cap in a vise with the seal retainer facing down. Insert a screwdriver in the middle hole and tap it
with a hammer until the seal retainer and two seals come out.
4. Replace the old seals with the new ones and put the seal retainer back in. You may need a 1/4” punch to get
them in. Insert one at a time and tap each one until it bottoms out. The spring side goes down.
5. Follow step 9 and 10 from above.
Breather Vents and Check Ball
The operator does not have to be removed from the wall for this procedure. On the bottom of each tube is a
breather vent built into a 7/16” nut. Unscrew the breather vent with a 7/16” wrench and make certain the
check ball comes out of the bottom cap. Clean with solvent and/or blow clean with air pressure. Replace in
bottom of the tube making certain the check ball goes in the hole first.
Needle Valve
The needle valve adjusts the speed of the door during the last two feet of each cycle. The control screw closest
to the wall controls the down cycle. The control screw furthest from the wall controls the up cycle. If you
remove this needle valve, it is very important that you replace it in the same hole you took it from. This can be
a problem because the exhaust hole and the threaded hole are the same size and actually touch each other.
If you put the airflow control screw in the exhaust hole, you will lose control of the piston speed.
800-542-7221 • 2319 Laurelbrook Street, Raleigh, NC 27604
Contact us if you have questions about installation or
maintenance.Technical assistance and salespeople are
available Monday through Friday between
9am and 5pm, Eastern Standard Time. Ultimate Products is
closed for national holidays.
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800-542-7221 • 2319 Laurelbrook Street, Raleigh, NC 27604
Contact us if you have questions about installation or maintenance.
Technical assistance and salespeople are available Monday
through Friday between 9 AM and 5 PM, Eastern Standard Time.
Ultimate Products is closed for national holidays.
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