RIDGID Lathe WL1200LS1 User Guide

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WARNING: To reduce the risk of

injury, the user must read and

understand the operator’s manual

before using this product.

SAVE THIS MANUAL FOR

FUTURE REFERENCE

Part No. SP6489

Printed in China

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Safety Instructions For Wood Turning Lathe (continued)

CAUTION: indicates a potentially

hazardous situation which, if not

avoided, may result in minor or mod-

erate injury. It may also be used to

alert against unsafe practices that

may cause property damage.

Safety Symbols

DANGER: indicates an imminently

hazardous situation which, if not

avoided, will result in death or serious

injury.

WARNING: indicates a potentially

hazardous situation which, if not

avoided, could result in death or seri-

ous injury.

NOTE: Advises you of information or

instructions vital to the operation or

maintenance of the equipment.

WARNING: Do not attempt to use the tool until you have read thorough-

ly and understand completely the operator’s manual. Pay close attention to

the safety rules, including Dangers, Warnings, and Cautions. If you use this

tool properly and only for what it is intended, you will enjoy years of safe, re-

liable service.

Before Using the Lathe

WARNING: Some dust created

by power sanding, sawing, grind-

ing, drilling, and other construction

WARNING: To reduce the risk

of mistakes that could cause seri-

ous, permanent injury, do not plug

the lathe in until the following steps

have been satisfactorily com-

pleted.

activities

contains

chemicals

known (to the State of California)

to cause cancer, birth defects or

other reproductive harm. Some

examples of these chemicals are:

• Lead from lead-based paints,

• Crystalline silica from bricks and

cement and other masonry prod-

ucts, and

Know and Understand the Lathe

• Completely assemble and align lathe.

• Learn the use and function of the

ON-OFF switch.

• Review and understand all safety

instructions and operating proce-

dures in this manual.

• Arsenic and chromium from

chemically-treated lumber.

Your risk from these exposures

varies, depending on how often

you do this type of work. To reduce

your exposure to these chemicals:

work in a well ventilated area, and

work with approved safety equip-

ment, such as those dust masks

that are specially designed to filter

out microscopic particles.

• Review the maintenance methods

for this lathe.

• Find and read the warning label

found on the lathe (shown below).

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Safety Instructions For Wood Turning Lathe (continued)

When Installing Or Moving the Lathe

Reduce the Risk of Dangerous

Environment.

prongs when plugging in or unplug-

ging the lathe.

• Use the lathe in a dry, indoor place

protected from rain.

• Turn off and unplug the lathe before

moving it to a new area. To reduce

the risk of back injury, get help when

you need to lift or move the lathe.

• Keep work area well lighted.

To reduce the risk of injury from

unexpected lathe movement.

• Never Stand On Tool. Serious

injury could occur if the tool tips or

you accidentally hit the cutter head.

Do not store anything above or

near the tool where anyone might

stand on the tool to reach them.

• The lathe and motor must be bolted

down to a stand or workbench for

stability.

• To reduce the risk of injury from

electrical shock, make sure your fin-

gers do not touch the plug’s metal

Before Each Use

Inspect your lathe.

• Keep turning tools sharp. Dull or

nicked tools tend to dig in the wood,

causing the tool or workpiece to be

thrown.

• To reduce the risk of injury from

accidental starting, turn the switch

off, unplug the lathe, and remove

the switch key before changing the

speeds, changing the setup, or

adjusting anything.

• To reduce the risk of injury from

unsafe accessories, use only rec-

ommended accessories.

• Check for alignment of moving

parts, binding of moving parts,

breakage of parts, unit stability, and

any other conditions that may affect

the way the lathe works.

Use Recommended Accessories.

• To avoid injury from unsafe acces-

sories, use only recommended

accessories.

• Consult the operator’s manual for

recommended accessories.

• If any part is missing, bent or broken

in any way, or any electrical part

does not work properly, turn the

lathe off and unplug the lathe.

• Follow the instructions that accom-

pany the accessories.

WARNING: Use only accesso-

ries recommended for this lathe.

(Using other accessories may be

dangerous.)

• Replace damaged, missing or failed

parts before using the lathe again.

• Keep lathe interior free of wood

chips and dust buildup around

motor and switch box.

To Reduce the Risk of Injury From Jams, Slips Or Thrown Pieces

(Kickbacks Or Throwbacks)

When turning between centers or on

the faceplate:

- Always rough-out "out of round"

workpieces at slow speed.

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- Running the lathe too fast, so that

it vibrates, could cause the work-

piece to be thrown from the

lathe... or the turning tool to be

jerked from your hands.

round" as possible. This will mini-

mize vibration while turning.

- Always fasten the workpiece

securely to the face-plate.

- Failure to perform these set-up

operations could cause the work-

piece to be thrown from the lathe.

Always revolve the workpiece by

hand before turning on the motor. If

the workpiece strikes the tool rest, it

could split and be thrown out of the

lathe.

Avoid awkward hand positions, where

a sudden slip could cause a hand to

move into the workpiece.

Do not allow the turning tool to "bite"

into the workpiece which could result in

splitting of the workpiece or the work-

piece being thrown from the lathe.

Remove all loose knots before install-

ing workpiece between centers or on

the faceplate.

Never leave the lathe work area with

the power on, before the lathe has

come to a complete stop, or without

removing and storing the switch key.

- Always position the tool rest

above the centerline of the lathe

for spindle turning.

- Do not apply the turning tool to

the workpiece below the level of

the tool rest.

Never operate the lathe with protec-

tive cover on the unused shaft end of

the motor removed.

Do not run the lathe in the wrong

direction. This could cause the turn-

ing tool to be thrown from your hands.

The lathe must run in a direction so

that the top of the workpiece turns

toward you.

Hang your turning tools on the wall

toward the tailstock end of the lathe.

Do not lay them on the bench so that

you must reach over the revolving

workpiece to select them.

Keep firm hold and control of the turn-

ing tool at all times. Special caution

must be exercised when knots or

voids are exposed to the turning tool.

Before attaching a workpiece to the

faceplate:

- Always "rough it out" to as "true

Plan Ahead To Protect Your Eyes, Hands, Face and Ears

Reduce the Risk of Accidental

Starting.

They are not safety glasses. Safety

goggles are available at many local

retail stores. Glasses or goggles not

in compliance with ANSI or CSA

could seriously hurt you when they

break.

• Make sure switch is “OFF” before

plugging lathe into a power outlet.

Dress for safety.

• Any power tool can throw foreign

objects into the eyes. This can result

in permanent eye damage. Always

wear safety goggles, not glasses

complying with ANSI Z87.1 (or in

Canada CSA Z94.3-99) shown on

package. Everyday eyeglasses

have only impact resistant lenses.

• For dusty operations, wear a dust

mask along with safety goggles.

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Safety Instructions For Wood Turning Lathe (continued)

• Do not wear loose clothing, gloves, • Never attempt to remount a

neckties or jewelry (rings, wrist

watches). They can get caught and

draw you into moving parts.

between-centers turning if the origi-

nal centers in the turning have been

altered or removed. Be positive the

lathe is set at the lowest speed if

remounting a between-centers turn-

ing with non-altered original centers.

• Wear nonslip footwear.

• Tie back long hair.

• Roll long sleeves above the elbow.

• Use extra caution in mounting a

between-centers or spindle turning

to the faceplate, or a faceplate turn-

ing to between- centers, for subse-

quent operations. Be positive the

lathe is set at the lowest speed

before turning ON.

• Noise levels vary widely. To reduce

the risk of possible hearing damage,

wear ear plugs or muffs when using

lathe for hours at a time.

Inspect Your Workpiece

• Think Safety.

• Complete hand sanding of the work- • Never mount a workpiece that con-

piece before removing it from the

faceplace. Never attempt to remove

and then remount a faceplate turn-

ing to the faceplace for any reason.

It is not always possible to position

the turning on the faceplace exactly

the way it was originally and an out-

of-balance condition could result.

tains any splits, checks, or loose

knots to a faceplate or between cen-

ters.

• Do not perform any operation when

hand holding the workpiece. Do not

mount a reamer, milling cutter, wire

wheel, or a drill bit to the headstock

spindle.

Whenever Lathe Is Running

WARNING: Don't allow familiar- • Feed the tool into the workpiece

ity (gained from frequent use of

your lathe) to cause a careless

mistake. Always remember that a

careless fraction of a second is

enough to cause a severe injury.

only fast enough to let the tool cut

without bogging down or binding.

Before freeing jammed material.

• Turn switch “OFF”.

• Wait for all moving parts to stop.

• Unplug the lathe.

• Before actually turning with the

lathe, let it run for a while. If it makes

an unfamiliar noise or vibrates a lot,

stop immediately. Turn the lathe off.

Unplug the lathe. Do not restart until

finding and correcting the problem.

Before Leaving the Lathe

• Turn the lathe off.

• Wait for lathe to come to a complete

stop.

• Unplug the lathe.

Keep Children Away.

• Make workshop child-proof. Lock

the shop. Disconnect master

• Keep all visitors a safe distance

from the lathe.

switches. Remove the yellow switch

key. Store it away from children and

others not qualified to use the tool.

• Make sure bystanders are clear of

the lathe and workpiece.

Don’t Force Tool.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

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Motor Specifications and Electrical Requirements

Power Supply and Motor Specifications

This Lathe is designed to use a 1725

RPM motor only. Do not use any motor

that runs faster than 1725 RPM.

The A-C motor used on this tool is a

totally enclosed fan cooled (TEFC), induc-

tion nonreversible type, having the follow-

ing specifications:

WARNING: To reduce the risk

of electrical hazards, fire hazards

or damage to the tool, use proper

circuit protection. Your tool is wired

at the factory for operation using

the voltage shown. Connect tool to

a power line with the appropriate

voltage and a 15-amp branch cir-

cuit. Use a 15-amp time delay type

fuse or circuit breaker. To reduce

the risk of shock or fire, if power

cord is worn or cut, or damaged in

any way, have it replaced immedi-

ately.

Rated H.P

Voltage

1/2

110-120

8.0

Amperes

Hertz (Cycles)

Phase

Single

1725

Clockwise

RPM

Rotation of Shaft

General Electrical Connections

DANGER: To reduce the risk of

electrocution:

1. Use only identical replacement

parts when servicing. Servicing

should be performed by a quali-

fied service technician.

WARNING: To prevent electric

shock, do not permit fingers to

touch the terminals of plug when

installing or removing the plug to or

from the outlet.

2. Do not use in rain or where floor

is wet.

This tool is intended for indoor

residential use only.

110-120 Volt, 60 Hz. Tool Information

NOTE: The plug supplied on your tool

the risk of electric shock. This tool is

may not fit into the outlet you are planning equipped with an electric cord having an

to use. Your local electrical code may

require slightly different power cord plug

connections. If these differences exist

equipment grounding conductor and a

grounding plug, as shown. The plug must

be plugged into a matching outlet that is

refer to and make the proper adjustments properly installed and grounded in accor-

per your local code before your tool is

plugged in and turned on.

dance with all local codes and ordi-

nances.

In the event of a malfunction or break-

down, grounding provides a path of least

resistance for electric current to reduce

Do not modify the plug provided. If it will

not fit the outlet, have the proper outlet

installed by a qualified electrician.

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Motor Specifications and Electrical Requirements (continued)

Improper connection of the equipment

grounding conductor can result in a risk of

electric shock. The conductor with insula-

tion having an outer surface that is green

with or without yellow stripes is the equip-

ment grounding conductor. If repair or

replacement of the electric cord or plug is

necessary, do not connect the equipment-

grounding conductor to a live terminal.

3-Prong Plug

Properly

Grounded

3-Prong Outlet

Grounding

Prong

If the grounding instructions are not com-

pletely understood, or if you are in doubt

as to whether the tool is properly

grounded check with a qualified electri-

cian or service personnel.

WARNING: If not properly

grounded, this tool can cause an

electrical shock, particularly when

used in damp locations, in proximity

to plumbing, or out of doors. If an

electrical shock occurs there is the

potential of a secondary hazard,

such as your hands to hit the cutting

tool.

Motor Safety Protection

1. Connect this tool to a power source

with the appropriate voltage for your

model and a 15-amp branch circuit with

a 15-amp time delay fuse or circuit

breaker. Using the wrong size fuse can

damage the motor.

2. If the motor won’t start, turn the switch

off immediately and unplug the tool.

Check the spindle to make sure it turns

freely. If the spindle will not turn make

sure the index pin is desengaged. (See

“Getting to Know Your Wood Lathe” -

Index Pin.) If the spindle is free, try to

start the motor again. If the motor still

does not start, refer to the "Motor Trou-

bleshooting Chart."

3. Fuses may "blow" or circuit breakers

may trip frequently if:

a. Motor Is Overloaded-Overloading

can occur if you feed too rapidly or

a. make too many start/stops in a short

time.

b. Line voltages should not be more

than 10% above or below the name-

plate voltage. For heavy loads, how-

ever, the voltage at motor terminals

must equal the voltage specified for

your model.

4. Most motor troubles may be traced to

loose or incorrect connections, over-

load, low voltage (such as small size

wire in the supply circuit) or to overly

long supply circuit wire. Always check

the connections, the load and the sup-

ply circuit whenever motor doesn't work

well. Check wire sizes and length with

the Wire Size Chart shown.

WARNING:

The operation of any power tool can result in foreign objects being

thrown into your eyes, which can result in severe eye damage. Before

beginning tool operation, always wear safety goggles or safety glasses

with side shields and a full face shield when needed. We recommend

Wide Vision Safety Mask for use over eyeglasses or standard safety

glasses with side shields. Always wear eye protection which is marked

to comply wtih ANSI Z87.1.

Look for this symbol to point out important safety precautions. It

means attention!!! Your safety is involved.

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Wire Sizes

NOTE: Make sure the proper extension

cord is used and is in good condition.

Check Motor Rotation

Place the motor on your workbench or on

the floor. Standing clear of the motor

shaft, plug the motor cord into a properly

grounded outlet. Notice the rotation of the

shaft. As you look directly at the motor

shaft it should be turning in the clockwise

The use of any extension cord will cause

some loss of power. To keep this to a min-

imum and to prevent overheating and

motor burn-out, use the table below to

determine the minimum wire size

(A.W.G.) extension cord. Use only 3 wire

extension cords which have 3-prong

grounding type plugs and 3-pole recepta-

cles which accept the tool’s plug.

direction.

If the motor shaft is

turning clockwise, remove the plug from

the power outlet and continue the assem-

bly procedures. If the motor is turning

counterclockwise, remove the plug from

the power outlet and contact 1-866-539-

1710.

Extension Cord

Length

Gauge

(A.W.G)

0-25 Ft.

26-50 Ft.

Unpacking and Checking Contents

Tools Needed

10mm Wrench

13mm Wrench

14mm Wrench

Medium Screwdriver

Hammer

Framing

Square

Phillips Screwdriver

Adjustable Wrench

1. Unpack all the parts of your wood lathe

and lay them out in your work area so

they can be recognized easily. Check

all parts with the parts table and be

careful not to lose any parts during

assembly.

Unpacking

WARNING: To reduce the risk

of injury from unexpected starting

or electrical shock, do not plug the

power cord into a source of power.

This cord must remain unplugged

whenever you are working on the

wood lathe.

NOTE: Make certain all items are

accounted for, before discarding any

packing material.

Unpacking and Checking Contents (continued)

List of Loose Parts

Item

Description

Qty.

Tube Or Bed.................................... 1

Small Tool Rest ............................... 1

Belt Guard Assembly.......................1

Headstock .......................................1

Motor Pulley ....................................1

V-Belt...............................................1

Motor ...............................................1

Large Tool Rest ...............................1

M Bracket Plate................................... 1

Particle Board Table Top................. 2

O Plate-Support (Steel)....................... 1

Leg.................................................. 4

Q End Stiffener ................................... 2

Side Stiffener................................... 2

Operator’s Manual .......................... 1

6" Face Plate................................... 1

Live Center...................................... 1

G Tool Rest Holder/Clamp Support

Assembly.........................................1

Tailstock and Ram...........................1

Rear Foot ........................................1

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Loose Parts Package

(Containing the following items):

Screw, Hex Head M6 x 1.0-12 ........ 1

Cord Clamp..................................... 2

Bolt, Carriage M6 x 1.0-45 ..............9 W Loose Parts Package

Bolt, Carriage M6 x 1.0-65 ..............3

Bolt, Carriage M6 x 1.0-16 ..............4

Lockwasher, Ext. 5mm ....................4

(Containing the following items):

Bolt, Carriage M8 x 1.25-16.......... 24

Nut, Hex M8 x 1.25 ....................... 24

Washer M8 x 16 x 1.6 ................... 24

Lockwasher, 8mm......................... 24

Foot Leveling 3/8" ........................... 4

Nut Hex Jam 3/8-16........................ 8

Loose Parts Package

Item

Description

Qty.

Lockwasher, 6mm .........................17

Nut, Hex M6 x 1.0..........................17

Nut, Sq. M8 x 1.25...........................1

Nut, Hex Heavy 3/4-16....................1

Screw, Pan Hd. M8 x 1.25-45..........1

Screw, Pan Hd. M5 x 0.8-12............4

Screw, Hex Head M10 x 1.5-30.......1

Washer, 6.5 x 19 x 1.6...................17

Wrench, Hex “L” 4mm .....................1

Screw Soc. Set M8 x 1.25-8............1

Screw, Pan Head M4 x 0.7-6...........5

(Containing the following items):

Spur Center..................................... 1

Point Center................................... 1

Switch Key ...................................... 1

Lever, Assembly.............................. 4

Shoe, Lock...................................... 2

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Assembly

Assembling Steel Legset

1. Find the following legset pieces:

4 Legs

2 Side Stiffeners

Side Stiffener

2 End Stiffeners

2. From the loose parts package find the

following items:

End

Stiffener

Carriage Bolt

M8 x 1.25-16

24 Carriage Bolts M8 x 1.25-16

24 Lockwashers M8 External Type

24 Hex Nuts,M8 x 1.25

Leg

24 Washer M8 x 16 x 1.6

8 Hex Nuts, 3/8-16

4 Leveling feet

Lockwasher

M8 External

Hex Nut

M8 x 1.25

3. Assemble the legset as shown. The

legs must be assembled on the outside

of stiffeners and the side stiffener on

top of the end stiffeners. Insert the truss

head screws through the holes in the

legs, then through the holes in the side

or end stiffeners.

Washer

M8 x 16 x 1.6

Hex Nut 3/8-16

4. Install washer and lockwasher. Screw

on the nuts finger tight.

5. Install leveling feet as shown:

Leveling

Foot

M8 x 1.25

Hex Nut

Lockwasher

M8x16x1.6

Washer

M8 x 1.25 x 16

Carriage Bolt

3/8-16 Hex Nut

Leveling Foot

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Assembly (continued)

Holes Used for Mounting Boards and Wood Lathe to Leg Set

A - Board/Side Support

B - Board/Side Support

F - Bracket Plate/Plate Support/Board/

Side Support

G - Belt Guard/Plate Support

H - Motor/Plate Support

J - Cord Clamps/Plate Support

K - Rear Foot/Board

C - Plate Support/Board/End Support

D - Board/End Support

E - Headstock/Plate Support/Board

Mounting Left Side Table Top

1. Find the following:

- through the two holes marked C on

the table top

- and through the holes marked C in

the End Stiffener. Place a washer,

lockwasher and nut on these bolts.

Finger tighten only.

1 Particle Board Table Top

1 Plate Support (Steel)

2. From the loose parts package find the

following:

4 M6 x 1.0-45 Carriage Bolts

4 M6 x 1.0 Hex Head Nuts

4 6.5 x 19 x 1.6 Flat Washers

4 6mm Lockwashers

3. Position the table top on the left side of

the assembled legset as shown

4. Front Side Stiffeners

Particle Board Table Top

Face the front of the legset and count

over from the left one slot and one hole.

Place a carriage bolt through the table

top (hole A) and the side stiffener. Fas-

ten in place with a washer, lockwasher

and nut. Finger tighten only.

Plate Support (Steel)

5. Rear Side Stiffener

Face the rear of the legset and count

over from the right two holes. Place a

carriage bolt through the table top (hole

A) and the side stiffener. Fasten in

place with a washer, lockwasher and

nut. Finger tighten only.

Carriage Bolt

M6 x 1.0-45

6. Locate the two holes marked C in the

steel plate support. Place bolts;

- through these holes

Flat Washer Lockwasher Nut Hex

6.5 x 19 x 1.6

6mm

M6 x 1.0

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tom nut using 14mm wrench.

e. Snug top nut against inside of leg by

hand.

f. Tighten all four bottom nuts using

14mm wrench.

Mounting Right Side Table Top

1. Find the following:

1 Particle Board Table Top

2. From the loose parts package find the

following:

4 M6 x 1.0-45 Carriage Bolts

4 M6 x 1.0 Hex Head Nuts

4 6.5 x 19 x 1.6 Flat Washers

4 6mm Lockwashers

3. The right side mounts similar to the left

except there is no steel support plate.

4. Place carriage bolts, through the table

top holes B and D as shown. Align the

right side table top with the left side

table top so that the two halves join end

to end. Fasten in place with a washer,

lockwasher and nut.

Particle Board Table Top

Carriage Bolt

M6 x 1.0-45

5. Securely tighten all nuts and bolts.

6. Adjust leveling feet as follows:

a. Move legset to desired location.

b. With a 14mm wrench loosen bottom

nut.

Lockwasher

6mm

Flat Washer

6.5 x 19 x 1.6

Nut Hex

M6 x 1.0

c. Back off top nut by hand.

d. Raise or lower foot by adjusting bot-

Right Side

Table Top

Motor Mounting Plate

Left Side

Table Top

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Assembly (continued)

Mounting Headstock

1. Find the following:

1 Belt Guard Assembly

1 Headstock Assembly

1 Plate Bracket

2. From the loose parts package find the

following:

2 M6 x 1.0-65 Carriage Bolts

1 M6 x 1.0-45 Carriage Bolt

1 M6 x 1.0-12 Hex Head Screw

4 M6 x 1.0 Hex Nuts

4 6.5 x 19 x 1.6 Flat Washers

4 6mm Lockwashers

Bracket

Plate

Belt Guard

Assembly

Headstock

Assembly

Carriage Bolt

M6 x 1.0-65

4 M5 x 0.8-12 Pan Head Screws

4 5mm Lockwasher

Carriage Bolt

M6 x 1.0-45

3 M4 x 0.7-6 Screw

1 Hex “L” Wrench 4mm

Hex Head

Screw

Nut Hex

M6 x 1.0

Flat Washer

6.5 x 19 x 1.6

M6 x 1.0-12

3. Remove the headstock pulley using

the 4mm hex “L” wrench.

4. Find four pan head thread cutting

screws and four lockwashers from

among the loose parts. Attach the belt

guard to the headstock assembly with

these screws and lockwashers. The

arrows in this illustration show the

location of the screws.

5. Locate the two holes on the left table

top Labeled E (from page 12). Posi-

tion the headstock assembly so the

mounting holes line-up with the holes

in the table board. Place a M6 x 1.0-

65 carriage bolt, through these holes.

Fasten in place with a washer, lock-

washer and nut.

Lockwasher

5mm

Lockwasher

6mm

Pan Head Thread Cutting

Screw M5 x 0.8 x 12

Pan Screw

M4 x 0.7-6

Hex “L” Wrench 4mm

6. Place the bracket plate next to the

headstock as shown. Attach the

bracket plate to the back of the belt

guard assembly with a M6 x 1.0-12

screw, washer, lockwasher and nut.

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7. Locate Hole F on the left table board.

Attach the bracket plate to the table

top through Hole F. Use an M6 x 1.0-

45 carriage bolt, washer, lockwasher

and nut. Finger tighten.

8. Locate the three holes Labeled G on

the lower edge of the belt guard plate.

Place a M4 x 0.7-6 screw through

each of these holes and into the

tapped holes in the plate support.

9. Replace pulley on headstock tighten-

ing with 4mm hex “L” wrench.

M6 x 1.0-12

Hex Head Screw

10. Securely tighten all nuts and bolts.

M6 x 1.0-45

Carriage Bolt

Mounting the Motor

1. Find the following:

1 Motor

1 Motor Pulley

Cord Clamp

Motor Pulley

Motor

2 Cord Clamps

1 V-Belt

Pan Screw

M4 x 0.7-6

2. From the loose parts package find the

following:

Carriage Bolt

M6 x 1.0-16

V-Belt

2 M4 x 0.7-6 Pan Head Screws

4 M6 x 1.0-16 Carriage Bolts

4 6.5 x 19 x 1.6 Flat Washers

4 6mm Lockwashers

4 M6 x 1.0 Hex Nuts

1 M8 x 1.25-8 Socket Set Screw

1 4mm Hex “L” Wrench

Lockwasher

6mm

Washer

6.5 x 19 x 1.6

Hex Nut

M6 x 1.0

4mm Hex “L”

Wrench

Socket Set Screw

M8 x 1.25-8

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Assembly (continued)

3. Locate the four holes Labeled H on the

plate support.

Holes for Mounting

Motor (H)

4. Place the motor over these holes with

the motor shaft extending through the

belt guard plate. Secure in place with

carriage bolts, washers, lockwashers

and nuts.

5. Plug motor cord into outlet on back of

switch box. Do Not plug motor cord into

power source outlet.

Install Carriage Bolts

from the Bottom Up

6. Route the motor cord and power cord

along side the headstock as shown.

Secure the motor cord and power cord

with two cord clamps and an M4 x 0.7-6

pan head screw into the tapped holes

Labeled J in the motor mounting plate.

7. Place the motor pulley on the motor

shaft so that the small diameter is

approximately 1/16" away from the

motor. Tighten the setscrew with the

4mm Hex “L” wrench securely against

the flat spot on the motor shaft.

Plate Bracket

8. Place the belt on the pulleys and slide

the motor toward the rear of workbench

until all the slack is removed from the

belt. Tighten only two of the motor

mounting bolts at this time.

NOTE: 1/2 inch deflection of belt under

moderate pressure applied between

the two pulleys is adequate tension.

9. Place a straightedge such as a piece of

wood, metal or framing square across

the pulleys to see if they are in line with

each other. If they are, tighten the other

two motor mounting bolts. If they are

not in line, loosen the two motor bolts

and move the motor sideways until pul-

leys are in line. Tighten the bolts.

Straightedge

Cord

Clamps

Motor

Cord

NOTE: Changing speeds is accom-

plished by repositioning the V-Belt on

the pulleys (see Changing Speeds”

section). There needs to be sufficient

slack in the V-belt to allow for this.

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Headstock, Tailstock, and Tool

Rest Assembly

1. Find the following:

Tube

1 Tube

Large Tool

Rest

1 Large Tool Rest

1 Tailstock

2 Lever Assembly

1 Hex Head Screw M10 x 1.5-30

1 Tool Rest Holder/Clamp Support

Assembly

Lever

Assembly

Hex Hd Screw

M10 x 1.5-30

Tailstock

2 Brass Shoe Locks

Brass Shoe

Lock

Tool Rest Holder

Clamp Support

Assembly

Tube Assembly

2. Place the tube assembly on your work-

bench as shown. Always keep the

squared key section straight down.

Squared Key Section

Headstock Spindle

Spindle Pulley

Tube

3. Slide the tube into the headstock until it

stops against the squared key section.

Insert hex head screw and tighten

securely.

Hex Head

Locking Screw

in Rear of

Headstock

Squared Key

Section

Clamp Support

4. Slide the tool rest holder/clamp support

assembly onto the middle of the tube.

Assemble lever assembly as shown.

Headstock

End

NOTE: Make sure to insert brass shoe

lock before installing lever assembly.

Brass Shoe

Lock

Lever

Assembly

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Assembly (continued)

5. Set large tool rest in tool rest holder

and install lever assembly as shown.

Tool Rest

Lever

Assembly

Tailstock Ram

Spindle

6. Slide tailstock assembly onto the tube

and install tailstock ram spindle lock

lever. Be sure that the stud nut

Lever

Assembly

engages the keyed way of the spindle.

Keyed Way

Tailstock

Assembly

Headstock End

Tailstock

Assembly

Lever

7. On the backside of the tailstock,

assemble the locking devices as

shown.

Assembly

Brass Shoe

Lock

NOTE: Make sure to insert brass shoe

lock before installing lever assembly.

Headstock End

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Mounting Rear Foot

1. Locate the following:

1 M8 x 1.25-45 Pan Head Screw

1 M8 x 1.25 Square Nut

1 M6 x 1.0-65 Carriage Bolt

1 6.5 x 19 x 1.6 Flat Washer

1 6mm Lockwasher

Carriage Bolt

M6 x 1.0-65

Pan Head Screw

M8 x 1.25-45

1 M6 x 1.0 Hex Nut

Lockwasher

6mm

Flat Washer

6.5 x 19 x 1.6

Nut Square

M8 x 1.25

Nut Hex

M6 x 1.0

2. Install the rear foot onto the tube as

shown and tighten rear foot locking

screw. One corner of the nut will rest in

the trough on the foot, the opposite cor-

ner of the nut will rest against the wall

of the tube. Foot will wedge into place

as screw is tightened. This may take

several attempts.

Pan Head Screw

M8 x 1.25-45

Carriage Bolt

M6 x 1.0-65

Rear Foot

Square

Headstock

End

Nut

3. Attach the rear foot on the right side

table board, hole labeled K. Secure in

place with bolt, washer, lockwasher and

nut as shown.

Hole K

Washer

Lockwasher

Hex Nut

Tube

Assembly

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Assembly (continued)

Spur and Cup Center Installation

1. From the loose parts package find the

following:

1 3/4-16 Hex Nut

1 Spur Center

1 Live Center

Hex Nut 3/4-16

2. Screw nut onto head stock spindle until

finger tight.

3. To insert point into spur center, place

center between jaws of a vise. Do not

tighten vice. Insert point into center and

with a hammer and nail gently tap

around the base of the point until

secure.

NOTE: A piece of cloth may be wrapped

around the centers to protect them before

inserting into a vise.

Place the wood between the centers and

lock the tailstock.

4. Use a clean cloth to remove any oil or

other debris form the taper of each cen-

ter and the inside bore on both head-

stock spindle and tailstock ram.

5. Insert spur center into head stock spin-

dle and live center into tailstock ram.

NOTE: Do not drive or hammer centers

into spindle or ram as removal may be dif-

ficult.

6. To remove spur center from spindle,

place a wrench on the “flats” of the spin-

dle and turn hex nut counterclockwise

until center is ejected. Do not use index

pin to hold pulley.

Live Center

Tailstock Ram

The spur center may also be removed

with a 3/8" dia. wood dowel or brass

rod through the hole in the spindle of

headstock. Hold the center with one

hand tap the dowel or rod with a ham-

mer.

1/4" Dia.

Wood Dowel

7. To remove live center insert a 3/8" dia.

wood dowel or brass rod through the

hole in the tailstock ram. Hold the cen-

ter with one hand and tap the dowel or

rod with a hammer.

Foot

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Check Spindle Rotation

Rotation

The lathe spindle must rotate counterclock-

wise when viewed from the spindle end.

NOTE: Make sure the spur center is

removed from the spindle.

1. Plug the lathe power cord into a prop-

erly grounded outlet (See page 7)

2. Stand clear of the lathe spindle and

turn the switch On. Notice the rotation

of the spindle. If it is Not turning

Counterclockwise contact your

Authorized Service Center immedi-

ately before using this tool.

Adjusting Tailstock

The tailstock contains a brass screw

which bears against the "key" on the

underside of the bed. This screw prevents

excessive "looseness" (rocking back and

forth) of the tailstock.

Tailstock

Lock

1. Loosen the locknut using a 13mm

wrench.

2. Tighten the screw moderately against

the key, then loosen it about 1/4 turn.

Slide the tailstock along the bed. If it does

not stick or bind in any one spot, tighten

the nut. If it binds or sticks, loosen the

screw only enough so that the tailstock

slides smoothly along the bed.

Brass

Screw

Locknut Key

Aligning Centers

If the centers are not in line as shown,

make the following adjustments.

1. Make sure the tailstock and ram are

locked when checking for alignment.

2. Loosen the screw in the foot... Tap the

screw to loosen the locknut inside.

3. Using a wrench, loosen the hex head

screw on the back of the headstock.

The screw is located about 1-3/4" from

the bottom.

M10x1.5-30

Hex Head

Screw

Foot

Tailstock

4. Swing the tailstock so that the two

points are in line... securely tighten the

hex head screw in the headstock and

the screw in the end of the foot.

Screw

Handwheel

Headstock

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Getting To Know Your Wood Lathe

14 Faceplate

Tailstock

3 Spindle “Flats”

11 Spur

11 Live Center

Ram

Center

2 Index Pin

7 Handwheel

Tool Rest

Belt Guard

Tool Rest

Base

8 Tailstock

Ram Lock

Spindle

Foot

12 Tailstock

13 Speed

Chart

Tool Rest

Bracket

1 Belt Guard

Knob

5 Tool Rest

Lock

Bed

Headstock

9 Tailstock

Lock

6 Tool Rest

Base Lock

4 Tool Rest

Bracket Lock

10 On-Off

Switch

1. Belt Guard Knob... Locks the hinged

part of the guard during operation.

2. Index Pin... Engages with the spindle

pulley to determine equal spacing for

cuts for fluting or reeding, or for divid-

ing face plate work. Do Not Use For

Removing Faceplates.

3. Spindle “Flats”... Place a wrench on

these “flats” to remove faceplate or

sanding discs.

8. Tailstock Ram Lock... Clamps the

ram in the tailstock.

9. Tailstock Lock... Clamps the tailstock

to the bed.

10. On-off Switch

11. Spur Center and Live Center... are

used for spindle turning and should

always be in alignment.

12. Tailstock...supports the workpiece for

spindle turning.

4. Tool Rest Bracket Lock... Clamps

the tool rest bracket to the bed.

5. Tool Rest Lock... Clamps the tool

rest to the tool rest base.

6. Tool Rest Base Lock... Clamps the

tool rest base to the tool rest bracket.

7. Handwheel... Adjusts the tailstock

ram.

13. Speed Chart... indicates general rec-

ommended speeds for various sizes

of workpieces.

14. Faceplate...The workpiece is secured

to the faceplate and then screwed

onto the spindle. Used to turn bowls,

plates and other objects.

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On-off Switch

WARNING: To prevent serious

personal injury, do not connect pow-

er cord to electrical outlet in your

shop until you are sure that motor ro-

tation is correct (see page 9).

The On-Off Switch has a locking feature.

This Feature Is Intended To Prevent

Unauthorized And Possible Hazard-

ous Use By Children And Others.

1. Insert key into switch.

NOTE: Key is made of yellow plastic.

Yellow

Switch Key

2. To turn lathe On... Insert finger under

switch lever and pull End of switch out.

3. To turn lathe Off... Push lever in.

Never leave the lathe unattended until it

has come to a complete stop and you

have removed the switch key.

Do not cycle the motor switch on and off

rapidly, as this may cause the faceplate or

sanding disc to loosen. In the event this

should ever occur, stand clear of the face

plate or sanding disc until it has come to a

complete stop... retighten it.

4. To lock switch in Off position... Hold

switch In with one hand, Remove key

with other hand.

WARNING: To prevent unautho-

rized use, always lock the switch

“OFF". When lathe is not in use...

remove key and keep it in a safe

place.

WARNING: In the event of a

power failure (all of your lights go

out) turn switch off... lock it and

remove the key. This will prevent

the risk of injury from the lathe

starting up again when the power

comes back on.

Speed Chart (Illustration for reference only.) See chart on belt guard assembly.

WARNING: Always use lowest speed when starting a new workpiece,

using faceplate, or turning between centers to avoid possible injury.

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Basic Lathe Operations

WARNING: For your own safety,

turn switch "OFF" and remove plug

from power source outlet before

making any adjustments.

Rotate

Counterclockwise

Motor

Pulley

Changing Speeds

The belt is shown positioned on the sec-

ond steps from the outside end of the pul-

leys. This causes the lathe to run 2250

R.P.M.

Suppose you wish to run the lathe slower

- say, 1350 R.P.M. You must shift the belt

inward.

Push on

Belt

1. Make sure the power cord is removed

from the outlet.

2. With the belt guard raised, rotate the

motor pulley Counterclockwise with

your left hand while pushing on the belt

with your right hand.

Spindle Pulley

3. Continue to rotate the pulley while

pushing on the belt until it "climbs"

down into the third step of the motor

pulley.

4. Now rotate the spindle pulley Clock-

wise with your right hand while pushing

on the belt with your left hand. The belt

will climb up into the third step of the

spindle pulley.

To make the lathe go faster, the belt must

be shifted outward.

1. Rotate the spindle pulley Clockwise

with your right hand. Pull on the belt

while rotating the pulley until it climbs

down into the next smaller step.

2. Now rotate the motor pulley Counter-

clockwise with your left hand while

pulling on the belt with your right hand.

The belt will climb up into the next

larger step.

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Spindle Turning

WARNING: For your own safety,

turn switch "OFF" and remove

switch key before mounting work-

piece in lathe.

If you have never done any amount of

wood turning, we suggest that you prac-

tice using the various wood turning tools.

Start with a small spindle turning.

Diagonal Lines

on Both Ends

Be sure to study the "How To..." section

of this manual. It explains and illustrates

the correct use of the turning stools, the

positioning of the tool rest and other infor-

mation to help you gain experience.

1. Carefully inspect and select a piece of

wood 2" x 2" x 12" and always use

wood free of checks, splits, cracks or

knots.

2. Draw diagonal lines on each end to

locate the centers.

3. On one end, make a sawcut approxi-

mately 1/16" deep on each diagonal

line. This is for the spur center.

4. The other end is for the live center.

Place the point of an awl on the wood

where the diagonal lines cross and

mark the center point.

5. Tap the spur center into the other end

of the wood. Make sure the spurs are in

the saw cuts. Remove the spur center.

6. Make sure the centers and the hole in

the spindle and the tailstock ram are

clean. Insert the spur center into the

headstock and the live center into the

tailstock. Do not drive them in.

7. Place the wood between the centers

and lock the tailstock.

WARNING: Be sure the spur

center and live center are firmly

seated against the workpiece and

that the tailstock is securely locked

in place to prevent serious personal

injury.

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Basic Lathe Operations (continued)

8. Move the live center into the wood by

turning the hand wheel. Make sure that

the live center and spur center are

"seated" into the wood in the holes

made in steps 4 and 5 on previous

page. Tighten tailstock ram lock.

1/8"

9. Adjust the tool rest approximately 1/8"

away from the corners of the wood and

1/8" above the center line. Note the

1/8"

Tool Rest

Wood

angled position of the tool rest base.

WARNING: For your own safety,

after adjusting the tool rest be sure

and lock the tool rest base and the

tool rest.

Look at the speed chart. Notice that a 2"

square turning up to 18" long should run

at 875 R.P.M. for "roughing". Move the V-

belt on the pulleys to the slowest speed

as outlined under "Changing Speeds"

section.

WARNING: For your own safety

rotate the wood by hand to make

sure that the corners do not strike

the tool rest or anything else before

turning the lathe "ON". Always be

sure the workpiece is properly

mounted and the lathe is set at the

proper speed (RPM).

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Faceplate Turning

WARNING: For your own safety,

turn switch “OFF” and remove

switch key before mounting work-

piece in lathe.

Before installing or using the faceplate or

bowl turning tool rest, read and follow the

safety and operating instructions con-

tained in the operator’s manual furnished

with your wood turning lathe.

1. Do not use wood that is checked, split

or contains a knot because it could

come apart while turning and cause

an injury.

2. If the workpiece is glued together

(laminated) make sure that you follow

recognized gluing procedures in mak-

ing the joints so that they are sound,

otherwise the workpiece could come

apart and cause an injury.

3. Make sure that the surface of the

workpiece to which the faceplate is

attached, is as flat as the faceplate.

Otherwise the workpiece could

change position while turning and

cause excessive vibration. The work-

piece can be trued up (made flat) by

hand planeing or using a belt sander.

4. Before attaching a workpiece to the

faceplate, always cut it as “true round”

as possible, on the band saw, or cut

off the corners. This will minimize

vibration while rough turning.

5. To install faceplate on wood lathe

remove the 3/4"-16 hex nut from the

lathe spindle before mounting face-

plate to the lathe spindle. This is nec-

essary in order to provide full thread

engagement of faceplate to spindle.

Put a small amount of grease on the

spindle, this will make removal of the

faceplate easier.

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Basic Lathe Operations (continued)

6. Use the faceplate (6-inch) for turnings

8 to 12 inches in diameter and 4

inches thick. Attach to workpiece

using 6 #14 flathead woodscrews, not

less than 1 inch long.

instructions on making this adjust-

ment.

9. Stand to left of the workpiece with

access to switch when turning the

motor “on”. If the workpiece is loose

or if there is excessive vibration, turn

the motor off immediately and

determine and correct the cause.

IMPORTANT: Do not use smaller size

screws or sheet rock screws as they are

too brittle and could break, causing the

workpiece to come loose and possibly

causing injury.

10. Set speed as indicated by speed

chart found on lathe and in operator’s

manual, for roughing or finish turning

as applicable.

7. Always rotate the workpiece by hand

before turning on the motor to make

sure that it does not strike the tool

rest, or any other part of the lathe.

11. Complete hand sanding of the work-

piece before removing it from the

faceplate. Never attempt to remove

and then remount a faceplate turning

to the faceplate for any reason. It is

not always possible to position the

turning on the faceplate exactly the

way it was originally and an out-of-

balance condition could result.

12. When removing the faceplate from

the spindle do not engage the index

pin to hold the spindle, because it

could break. Position a wrench on the

“flats” of the spindle. Rotate the face-

plate counterclockwise to remove

faceplate.

8. Before turning on the motor, check

the belt. Make sure it is positioned to

run the lathe at the slowest speed.

Refer to your operator’s manual for

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Indexing

The spindle pulley contains 36 equally

spaced holes. The index pin engages with

these holes to keep the spindle from turn-

ing while you put a mark on the work-

piece.

For example: To locate the position of six

spokes in a wheel:

1. Pull the index pin outward and turn it so

that the small cross pin slips into the

slot. This will allow the index pin to

engage in one of the holes in the pulley

and prevent the spindle from turning.

2. Adjust the tool rest approximately at the

centerline and make a mark.

3. Pull out the index pin and slowly rotate

the workpiece until the pin slides into

the next hole in the pulley.

4. Do this six times and put the next mark

on the workpiece. The two marks will

be spaced 60° apart. Continue this

operation until six spokes are marked

60° apart.

5. Spindle turnings can be divided in the

same manner.

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How To Use Your RIDGID Wood Lathe

Woodworking Chisels and How to Use Them

Gouge

Skew

Parting Tool Spear Point Flat Nose Round Nose

The Six Commonly Used Chisel Types

sharpened to a razor edge by honing on

both sides. The scraping chisels are the

flatnose, round nose and spear point.

These are not honed on the flat sides -

the wire edges produced by grinding are

left on to aid in the scraping process.

Selection Of Chisels

Better chisels have handles approxi-

mately 10-in. long, to provide plenty of

grip and leverage. Sharp tools are essen-

tial for clean, easy work... buy tools that

will take and hold keen edges.

Theory Of Turning

The Two Classes of Chisels

These are: 1) Chisels intended primarily

for cutting, and 2) chisels used only for

scraping. The cutting chisels are the

gouge, skew and parting tool. These are

the most used. They are commonly

Cutting Chisel

Scraping Chisel

Cutting and Scraping

To cut, the chisel is held so that the sharp

edge actually digs into the revolving work

to peel off shavings. To scrape, the chisel

is held at a right angle to the work sur-

face, and removes fine particles instead

of shavings. Many operations require that

the cutting chisels be used for scraping;

but scraping chisels are practically never

used for cutting. Scraping dulls a chisel

much faster, especially the razor sharp

cutting chisels. Cutting is faster than

scraping and produces a smoother finish

which requires less sanding. However, it

is far more difficult to master. Scraping, on

the other hand, is far more precise and

easier to control.

Cutting

Scraping

Means Center Line of the

workpiece

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When You Can Cut, and When You

Must Scrape

approach the surface being turned rotates

like a disc under the chisel edge. Some-

times the approach will be a combination

of both.

There are two different approaches to the

work when turning. One approach is

toward a circumference of the workpiece

(for example, turning down the outer sur-

face of a cylinder or the inner wall of a hol-

low round box). In this approach, the

surface being turned travels under the

chisel edge like an endless belt. The sec-

ond approach is toward the diameter of a

workpiece (as when turning the face of a

faceplate turning, or the side of a large

shoulder on a spindle turning). In this

Diameter

Approach

Circumference

Approach

Circumference

Approach

Steady

Thrust

Against

Hands

Rest too

high -

Force

No support

for

bevel

point

Kickback

Chatter

Bevel

against

work.

Rest

too low.

chisel

too high

on work.

digging

in.

Kickback

Chisel

cutting

Rest too low;

Chisel

too high.

^properly. ^{chisel too horizontal.}

Handle

Kicked Up

Small

Diameter

Large

Diameter

Rest too distant-chisel too

high, point too far from rest.

Either a cutting or scraping action can be scraping. Never try to cut when it

used when the approach is toward a cir- becomes difficult to hold the chisel

cumference - the shaving is removed like against the roughness of the wood grain.

a peeling from a potato. Scraping, only,

can be used when the approach is toward

a diameter. The reason is obvious when

you consider that faceplate turning practi-

cally always requires removal of wood

across the grain. Wood does not peel

easily across the grain, and attempts to

use cutting methods will likely result in

damage to the work and throwing of the

chisel by the work.

How to Position Tool Rest for Circum-

ference Cutting

When cutting, the object is to pierce the

outer skin of wood to a certain desired

depth, then to hold the chisel steady, with

the bevel edge parallel to the work cir-

cumference, so that it will peel off a shav-

ing at this desired depth. The only sure

method of holding the chisel steady is to

rest the bevel against the work, as shown

in sketch 1. When the tool rest is at the

proper height (sketch 1), the chisel can be

held with the bevel pressed against the

work, and the tool rest will act as a ful-

crum to support the chisel against the

downward force of the revolving work.

It follows that a cutting action is used for

the general run of spindle turning opera-

tions...while the major part of a faceplate

turning is done by the scraping method.

When a combination approach is to be

used, you will have to judge, by the feel of

the work, when to stop cutting and start

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How To Use Your RIDGID Wood Lathe (continued)

If the rest is placed too low, so that the

chisel is held with the bevel out from the

cutting, it strikes the workpiece near the

top where the direction of force exerted by

work (sketch 2), the cutting edge will con- the workpiece is nearly horizontal - and

tinue to dig deeper into the work. It will dig kickback will again result.

in until the "bite" becomes so deep that

your hands have difficulty holding the

chisel - then the improperly supported

chisel will begin to bounce, or chatter,

against the workpiece.

If the rest is placed too far out from the

work surface (sketch 5) - then, when cor-

rectly held, the chisel is again too high on

the work. Also, you have less leverage on

your side of the tool rest - and it is even

more difficult to hold the chisel.

If the rest is placed too low, the chisel

must be held extremely high to position

the bevel against the work (sketch 3).

Then the rest loses most of its value as a

fulcrum, and the down ward force of the

revolving workpiece tends to kick the

chisel back out of your hands.

With large diameter work (sketch 6), the

tool rest can be above the workpiece cen-

terline, and somewhat out from the work

surface. With small diameter work (sketch

7), the rest should be lowered almost to

the centerline, and should not be far from

the work surface. As work grows smaller,

the rest should be repositioned.

If the rest is placed too high (sketch 4)

and the chisel is correctly positioned for

How to Position Tool Rest for Circumference Scraping

In scraping operations, the tool rest posi-

tion is not as critical as it is for cutting

operations. The chisel generally is held

horizontally, though it can be held at an

angle to reach into tight places. Consider-

ing that the wire edge of the chisel does

the scraping, sketches 9 and 10 show the

results of too low or too high a position for

the rest; and sketch 8 shows the chisel

action with the rest correctly positioned.

Edge

Digging

Stock

Correct

Removed

How to Position Chisel and Rest for Diameter Scraping

When scraping on the diameter, that por- under the chisel edge. This, then, is the

tion of surface to the right of center is

moving upward (sketch 11). If chisel is

position in which it is easiest to hold the

chisel steady. To obtain this position,

placed in this area, it will simply be carried place the rest approximately 1/8-inch

up off the rest and out of your hands. All

diameter approach operations must be

done at the left of center.

(thickness of chisel) below center.

1/8"

Three different chisel contact points are

shown in sketch 12. It will be noted that,

when chisel is above the workpiece cen-

ter, or below it, the work surface sweeps

past the chisel edge at an angle and

tends to carry the chisel in one direction

or the other along the rest. Only when the

chisel contacts the work on the centerline

does the work surface pass squarely

Rest

Edge

Face

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Using The Gouge

Three gouges, the 1/4-, 1/2- and 3/4-in.

sizes, are ample for general homeshop

turning; but other sizes from 1/8- to 2-in.

can be purchased.

The chief use of the gouge is for rough

circumference cutting of raw stock down

to a cylinder of working size. It is the best

tool to use for rapid cutting away of large

areas of the workpiece; but when so used

does not produce a smooth surface. With

practice, it can be used for cutting coves

and the shaping of long cuts - is also use-

ful for scraping.

Cutting Edge

Advanced

Wrong

Right

When used for cutting, the gouge is

always held with the convex side down. It

should be rolled approximately 30° to 45°

in the direction in which it is being

advanced along the rest; and the cutting

edge should be a little in advance of the

handle.

Using The Skew

Two skews, the 1/2- and 1-in. sizes, are

all that are needed for general use. Other

sizes are available. This tool is nearly

always used to make finish cuts, to cut

vees and beads, and to square shoulders.

Properly used, it produces the best finish

that can be obtained with a chisel. It

should be used but little for scraping, as

this quickly dulls it. For finish cutting, the

skew is held with the cutting edge consid-

erably in advance of the handle, bevel

side down. Keep the base of the bevel

against the work. Both the toe and the

heel of the skew can be used for taking

light cuts; but do not penetrate the wood

too deeply without cutting clearances, as

there is danger of burning the tip of the

tool.

Path of

cut

Direction

of cut

Pull

Swing

Tool

Yes

Back

Support

Edge

does

not

cut

Using Toe

Using Heel

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How To Use Your RIDGID Wood Lathe (continued)

Using The Parting Tool

The parting tool has just one primary pur-

pose: to cut straight into the workpiece as

deep as desired, or all the way through to

make a cut-off. It is therefore a very nar-

row tool - 1/8-in. wide - and is shaped to

cut its own clearance so that the edge will

Cutting

Scraping

not be burned. When used for scraping,

however, it should be backed off regularly

to prevent overheating.

Unlike the gouge and skew, the parting

tool is seldom held with the bevel against

the work. As the amount of stock removed

is small, a support for the bevel is not nec-

essary.

The tool is simply fed into the work at an

angle (for cutting), or pointed at the work-

piece center (for scraping). It can be held

easily in one hand.

Using The Scraping Chisels

A 1/2-in. wide spear point chisel, a 1/2-in.

wide round nose chisel, and a 1 -in. wide

flatnose chisel complete the list of tools

ordinarily used by home craftsmen. Each

of these scraping chisels can be pur-

chased in various other sizes for special

purposes. All are very useful for diameter

scraping operations and for circumfer-

ence scraping when cutting methods can-

not be employed. The spear point is used

for fine scraping and delicate operations,

such as the forming of beads, parallel

grooves and shallow vees. Edges and

bowl contours can be rounded with the

round nose chisel. Any flat surface can be

scraped with the flatnose chisel.

Spear

Point

Round

Nose

Flat

Nose

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Hand Positions

WARNING: Keep firm hold and

control of the turning tool at all

times. Avoid awkward hand posi-

tions where a sudden slip could

cause a hand to move into the work-

piece.

In handling all of the chisels the handle

hand takes a natural position, being

nearer or farther from the end depending

upon the amount of leverage required.

The position of the tool rest hand is a mat-

ter of individual liking; but there are two

generally accepted positions, each best

for certain types of operations.

Roughing Off

Roughing-off and other heavy work

requires a firm grip and solid positioning

of the chisel against the rest. This is best

obtained by the tool-rest hand position

illustrated. The wrist is dropped down so

that the heel of the hand below the little

finger acts as a sliding guide against the

rest. The handle hand controls chisel

position.

Finish Cutting

Finish cutting requires more control, with

less force - and is better done with the

palm of the tool-rest hand turned up. The

wrist is still held down, and the side of the

index finger acts as a guide along the

rest. In this position, control of the chisel

is shared by both hands, the fingers of the

tool-rest hand being free to assist in posi-

tioning the tool.

The first and second positions are equally

good for scraping or cutting operations.

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How to Use Your RIDGID Wood Lathe (continued)

Making Standard Cuts

The Roughing-off Cut

has been formed, step lathe up to the next

faster speed. Further reductions in size

can now be carried out by cutting as

deeply as desired at any spot along the

work. At this stage, long cuts, from the

center off either end, can also be taken.

Roughing-off generally is continued until

the cylinder is approximately 1/8-in larger

than the desired finish size. Roundness

can be tested by laying the gouge on top

of the work - it will not ride up and down

when cylinder is perfectly round.

Reducing a square or odd-shaped work-

piece down to a cylinder of approximate

size for finish turning is called “Roughing-

off”. Faceplate turning and large diameter

spindles should first be partly reduced by

sawing but small spindles are easily turned

down entirely with the large (3/4-in.) gouge.

Start the first cut about 2-in. from tailstock

end - then run it toward the tailstock and

off the end of the workpiece. Next, start

another cut 2-in. nearer the headstock -

and run it, also, toward tailstock, to merge

with first cut. Continue in this manner until

2- to 4-in. from the headstock end, then

reverse the direction of tool travel and

work one or two cuts in succession

toward the headstock, and off this end of

the workpiece. NOTE: Never start a cut

directly at the end -if the chisel catches

the end, it will damage the workpiece.

Never take long cuts while corners remain

on the work, as this tends to tear long sliv-

ers from the corners.

First Cuts

The first series of cuts should not be too

deep. It is better to partially reduce the

work to a cylinder all along its length; then

start a second series of cuts to complete

reducing it to a cylinder. Once a cylinder

Testing Roundness

Rough-cutting To Size

The roughing-off cut can be made to

accurately size the cylinder to a given

diameter.

Another method is to make a number of

sizing cuts at intervals along the work,

then use the gouge to reduce the whole

cylinder down to the diameter indicated by

these cuts.

Making Sizing Cuts

Sizing cuts are useful to establish approx- lathe off and allow to come to a complete

imate finish-size diameters at various

points along a workpiece. The work can

then be turned down to the diameters

indicated - and be ready for finishing.

Diameters for sizing cuts should be

planned to be about 1/8-in. greater than

the desired finish diameters.

stop. Check the depth of cut with a cali-

per. Repeat as necessary..

Checking

Sizing Cut

Diameter

A sizing cut is made with the parting tool.

Cut “in” with the parting tool. Turn the

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Smoothing A Cylinder

The final 1/8-in. can be removed in two

ways. Either use the 1 -in. skew, working

from center toward both ends and taking

lighter and lighter cuts until finished.

Cutting A Shoulder

A shoulder can be the side of a square

area; then clean out the corner by

portion left in the workpiece, the side of a advancing heel of the skew into it along

turned section, or the end of the work-

piece. Most shoulders are perpendicular

the surface of the outside area. Tilt the

cutting edge, with handle raised up, so

to work axis; but a shoulder can be at any that only the extreme heel does this cut-

angle desired. ting.

First, mark position of the shoulder with a If shoulder is at end of work, the process

pencil held to the revolving workpiece.

Then make a sizing cut with the parting

is called squaring the end. In this case,

reduce outer portion to a diameter about

tool, placing this cut about 1/16-in. outside 1/4-in. larger than tool center diameter,

the shoulder position, and cutting to within then later saw off the waste stock.

about l/8-in. of the depth desired for the

area outside of the shoulder. If shoulder is

shallow, the toe of the skew can be used

to make the sizing cut; but do not go in

deeper than l/8-in. with the skew unless

wider and wider vees are cut to provide

clearance for this tool.

Parting

Tool

Pencil

Mark

Pencil

Mark

Skew

Use the gouge to remove any waste stock

outside of shoulder-and smooth this sec-

tion, up to within l/8-in.of the shoulder, in

usual manner. Finishing of the shoulder,

unless it is more than 1 -in. high, is best

done with the 1/2-in. skew. First, toe of

skew is used to remove thin shavings

from the side of the shoulder - down to fin-

ish size. Hold skew so that bottom edge of

bevel next to shoulder will be very nearly

parallel to side of shoulder, but with cut-

ting edge turned away at the top so that

only the extreme toe will do the cutting. If

cutting edge is flat against shoulder, the

chisel will run. Start with handle low, and

raise handle to advance toe into the work.

Cut down to finished diameter of outside

Wrong

Right

Bevel

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How to Use Your RIDGID Wood Lathe (continued)

Cutting Vees

Vee grooves can be cut with either the toe be done only by extreme end of cutting

or heel of the skew. When the toe is used, edge.

the cutting action is exactly the same as in

trimming a shoulder - except that the

skew is tilted to cut at the required bevel.

Light cuts should be taken on first one

side then the other, gradually enlarging

the vee to the required depth and width.

If deep vees are planned, it is quicker to

start them by making a sizing cut at the

center of each vee. Vees can also be

scraped with the spear point chisel or a

three-sided file.

When the heel is used, the skew is

rotated down into the work, using the rest

as a pivot. Otherwise, cutting position and

sequence of cuts is the same. As when

using the toe, it is important that cutting

Cutting Beads

This requires considerable practice, First, It is important that only the extreme heel

make pencil lines to locate the tops (high- should do the cutting. This means that the

est points) of two or more adjoining

beads. Then make a vee groove at the

exact center between two lines - and

down to the desired depth of the separa-

tion between the beads. Be careful not to

make the groove too wide or you will

remove portions of the desired beads.

The sides of the two adjoining beads are

now cut with the heel of the skew - prefer-

ably 1/2-in. size, unless beads are quite

large. Place skew at right angles with the

work axis, flat against surface and well up

near the top. The extreme heel should be

just inside the pencil line that marks the

top of the bead. Now draw skew straight

back while raising handle slowly - until

edge of the heel at the pencil line starts to

cut.As edge begins to cut, roll skew in the

direction of the vee - so that the exact por-

tion of the edge which started cutting will

travel in a 90° arc down to bottom of the

vee. Upon reaching bottom of the vee, the

skew should be on edge. Reverse the

movements to cut side of the adjacent

bead.

bottom edge of the bevel next to the vee

must at all times be tangent to the arc of

the bead being formed.

Easier beads can be shaped with the

spear point chisel. Use pencil marks and

sizing cuts as before. Push the chisel

straight into each cut and rotate it horizon-

tally to round off the adjacent edges. It

must be moved slightly in the direction of

rotation at the same time, to keep the

point from digging into the adjacent bead.

Start

Second Finish

Position

Bevel

Tangent

To Work

Swing

Tool

Cutting

Beads

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Cutting Coves (Concaves)

to keep the extreme point of gouge doing

the cutting from start to finish. Reverse

movements to cut the opposite side.

This is the most difficult single cut to mas-

ter - but one of the most important in good

wood turning. First, use pencil marks to

Coves also can be scraped to finish,

indicate the edges. Then, rough it out - to using the round nose chisel or a rattail file

within about 1/8-in. of the desired finish

surface - by scraping with the gouge or

round nose chisel. If the cove is to be very

wide, sizing cuts can be made to plot the

roughing out. Once it is roughed out, the

cove can be finished in two cuts - one

from each side to the bottom center.

- but these methods do not generally pro-

duce perfectly curved coves.

Pencil Marks

At the start of either cut, gouge is held

with handle high and the two sides of

blade held between the thumb and fore-

finger of tool-rest hand, just behind the

bevel.Position the fingers ready to roll the

blade into cove. Hold blade so that bevel

is at a 90° angle to the work axis, with

point touching the pencil line and pointed

into work axis.

Cutting Coves

From this start, depress point slightly to

start cut, then continue to move point

down in an arc toward the bottom center

of cove-at the same time rolling chisel uni-

formly so that, at the end of the cut, it will

be flat at bottom of the cove. The object is

Making Long Convex Cuts

First turn work down to approximate size, tool travel to overtake the point, if neces-

using sizing cuts (as required) to deter-

mine various diameters. Finish cut can

then be made with either skew or gouge.

sary, when the steep part of the curve is

reached. Object is to keep extreme point

during the cutting throughout - with bevel

as tangent to curve as possible.

If the skew is used, the principles of the

operation are the same as those

employed in cutting a bead - except that

curve is longer and may be irregular. Use

the extreme heel throughout - start at

longer end of curve (if curve is irregular)

and progress toward steeper end. If

gouge is used, make cut in the same

direction. Start with the handle well back

of point-swinging handle in the direction of

Chisel Inclined

in Direction of Cut

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How to Use Your RIDGID Wood Lathe (continued)

Making Long Taper Cuts

Long taper cuts are made like long con-

vex cuts, with the skew or gouge. How-

ever, the angle between the cutting edge

and handle is kept constant during the

entire cut. The handle is not swung

around. Always cut downhill. Do not cut

too deeply at the center of the taper.

How To Handle Spindle Turnings

Plotting The Shape

Make the pencil marks about 1/2-in. long -

they will then be visible when the work is

revolved under power, and can be quickly

traced around the spindle by touching

each line with the pencil.

Once the basic cuts have been mastered,

you are ready to turn out finished work.

The first step is to prepare a plan for the

proposed turning. This can be laid out on

a suitable sheet of paper - and should be After marking, use the parting tool to

to full size. Next, prepare the turning stock make sizing cuts at all of the important

by squaring it up to the size of the largest shoulders. When learning, you will find it

square or round section in your plan. The best to make many sizing cuts to accu-

stock can be cut to the exact length of the rately plot the various diameters; but

proposed turning; but, in most cases, it is experienced workers can do with a few

best to leave the stock a little long at one such cuts at the important shoulders. Plan

or both ends to allow for trimming.

each sizing cut so that it is in waste stock;

and make each deep enough so that

there will be just enough wood left under

the cut for the finishing process. Once the

sizing cuts have been run in, rough-out

the excess wood with a gouge - then pro-

ceed with the finishing process by making

the various types of cuts required.

Mount the stock in the lathe, and rough it

off to a maximum size cylinder. Now

project your plan onto the turning by

marking the various critical dimensions

along the length of the spindle in pencil.

These dimensions can be laid out with an

ordinary ruler - or by using a template.

2-1/4

1-9/16

1-1/4

2-3/16

1-7/8

1-5/8

1-11/16

1-1/3

2-3/4

2-1/4

3-5/8

14-1/4

1-1/2

1-3/8

Tenon

NOTE: All Measurements In Inches

Sizing Cuts

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Duplicate Turnings

Identical turnings require great accuracy

when plotting the work and doing the vari-

ous cuts. Many methods have been

devised to aid in perfecting the work.

Use of Patterns

Professional workers generally use a pat-

tern, or layout board. This is a thin piece

of wood or cardboard on which is drawn a

full- size half section of the turning. The

contour of the finished surface is drawn

first; then the diameters at various critical

points are drawn to scale as vertical lines

intersecting the contour line. By placing

the pattern against the roughed-off cylin-

der, you can quickly mark the various

points of the critical diameters. To make

each sizing cut, use outside calipers and

set these by actually measuring the length

of the vertical line on the pattern which

represents the diameter desired. Then

make the sizing cut, down to the proper

diameter by using the calipers to deter-

mine when the cut is finished. After mak-

ing the sizing cuts, hang the pattern

behind the lathe where it will serve as a

guide for completion of the workpiece.

Using a Template and a Diameter

Board

When many identical turnings are to be

produced, it is a convenience to have a

prepared template. This can be made of

thin wood or cardboard - and is cut on a

band saw or scroll saw to have the exact

contour of the finished turning. The num-

ber one finished turning can also be used

as a template. Attach the template to a

board; then mount the board behind the

lathe, on hinges, so that the template can

be moved down to touch the workpiece

and allow you to closely observe progress

of your work.

Using a Template

Using a

Diameter Board

If a great many turnings are being pro-

duced, a diameter board will save the

time used for resetting calipers. This is

simply a thin board along the edge of

caliper settings required for measuring

the sizing cuts. Each semicircular cut is

which a number of semicircular cuts have held against the workpiece instead of

been prepared to represent all the various using the calipers.

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How to Use Your RIDGID Wood Lathe (continued)

Long Spindles

A long turning can be worked in short sec-

tions, with joints arranged to be at shoul-

ders where they will not be noticed.

Long thin work that is likely to whip while

turning should be supported at one or two

places by a backstick. This is easy to

make. A simple one consists of a short

length of wood mounted vertically in an

extra tool rest, and notched so that it can

be used to support the spindle from

behind.

Faceplate & Chuck Turnings

Planning The Work

Make a layout first, to provide a visual pat-

tern to follow while working the turning.

Patterns can be laid out in the same man-

ner as spindle patterns - or templates can

be made which can be held against the

work for visual comparison. Circles to

locate the various critical points (at which

the contours of the faceplate take distinct

form) can be quickly scribed on the rotat-

ing work by using the dividers.

Planning Various Cuts

The circumference of a faceplate turning

is roughed-off and finished in the same

manner that a spindle is worked. Practi-

cally all of the balance of the operations,

however, are done by using scraping

methods. A few of the standard contours

which must often be turned are illustrated

in the accompanying sketch - which also

shows the proper chisels for shaping

these contours. Any roughing-out to depth

that must be done is generally accom-

plished with the gouge held in the scrap-

ing position.

Spear

Skew

Round

Nose

Planning

Square

Nose

Checking Profile

with Cardboard

Round Nose

Chisel

Spear-Point

Chisel

Measuring

Depth

Template

Various Cuts

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Deep Recesses

The first step is to remove as much wood

as possible by boring into the center with

the largest wood bit available. This can be

accomplished as illustrated. Be careful to

measure in advance the depth to which

drill can be allowed to go.

Now remove the bulk of the waste (to

rough-out the desired recess) by scraping

with the roundnose chisel or the gouge.

Remove up to within 1/8-in. of finished

size in this manner. Finish off the inside

circumference by scraping with the spear-

point chisel or skew. Smooth the bottom

of the recess by scraping it flat with the

flatnose chisel.

Proper support must be provided at all

times for the scraping chisels. Several

tool rest positions are shown in the

accompanying illustrations. Always

endeavor to position the part of the rest

that supports the tool as close to the

working surface as possible.

How To Make Fancy Faceplate Turnings

Preparing A Plug Chuck

A plug chuck is an auxiliary wood chuck

mounted onto a faceplate. The chuck can

be any size in diameter - should be about

2-1/2- in. thick for stability - and should be

provided with a 3/4- or 7/8-in. hole in the

center for receiving a tenon turned at the

end of the workpiece. Once made, such

chucks are permanent useful fixtures for

turning balls, goblets, etc. In use, the

wood stock for turning is turned between

centers to produce a tenon at one end

which will be a driving fit in the hole of the

chuck. When mounted in the chuck, the

workpiece is substantially supported for

any faceplate type of turning.

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How To Use Your RIDGID Wood Lathe (continued)

Turning Cylinders

turn this down to form a dowel that will be

a tight press (not driving) fit inside the

recessed end of the cylinder. Mount the

cylinder on this wooden chuck, and

recess the unworked end deep enough to

form a perfect hole through the entire cyl-

inder.

Stock for cylinders should be mounted on

the screw center or a small faceplate. The

tailstock can be brought up to support the

work while the circumference is being

turned and finished. Afterwards, the tail-

stock is backed off and the outer end of

the cylinder is recessed, using methods

already described for making deep

recesses.

After making a recess at least 1/2 of the

way through the workpiece, and finishing

this on the inside, remove the workpiece

from the lathe. Now mount a short length

of softwood stock on the screw center and

Rechucking

Rechucking is the general term used to

describe any additional work mounting

that is necessary to complete a turning

made. This chuck must have a turned

recess properly sized to accommodate

the rim of the bowl in a tight press fit.

project. The method of working cylinders, When the bowl is mounted in this chuck,

and the use of a plug chuck as already the bottom can be cleaned off and slightly

described, are typical examples. Another recessed to complete the desired con-

good example is the rechucking of a bowl. tours.

The work is first mounted on a wood

backing block secured to the large face-

plate, and is turned in the usual manner

all except the back side (which is against

the mounting block). It is then removed

from the mounting block. An auxiliary

chuck of softwood is now made in the

same manner that the cylinder chuck is

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Turning A Ring

One method of turning a ring requires a

spindle chuck. The work stock is first

mounted to a backing block held by the

large faceplate, and is turned to shape on

the outer side. The inside diameter of the

ring is also shaped, all the way through to

the backing block. The work is then

removed from the backing block. A spin-

dle chuck is now prepared so that it will be

a tight press fit inside the ring, and the

ring is reversed and mounted on this

chuck. Thus mounted, the remaining con-

tours can be turned to shape.

Another method of turning a ring makes

use of a recessed chuck. The work stock

is mounted on a screw center and one

half of the ring is formed; but the ring is

not cut away from its center. The stock is

then removed, and a recessed chuck -

mounted on the large faceplate - is pre-

pared to receive the ring in a tight press

fit. After being chucked, the remaining

face of the ring can be turned to the

proper contour, thus cutting away the cen-

ter portion. In work of this type take con-

stant measurements - or better still, use a

template - to guard against over or under

cutting.

Turned Boxes

Turned boxes involve deep recessing

together with a special system of working

the lid and body of the box together as

one unit. The inside of the lid is turned

first. Next, the inside of the body is turned.

A careful check must be made when turn-

ing the lip of the body portion so that the

lid will be a tight press fit. The lid is then

pressed onto the body and the outer cir-

cumference and face of the lid, together

with the outer circumference of the body,

are turned all at one time. This insures

accurate matching of the two pieces. After

the work is complete, the tight fit of the lid

can be relieved by sanding the lip of the

body.

Lid

Lids

Body

Backing Block

Face Plate

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How to Use Your RIDGID Wood Lathe (continued)

Sanding, Buffing And Polishing

Using The Lathe To Sand Turnings

Turnings can be sanded with the lathe

running. A large sheet of sandpaper is

useful for smoothing cylinders. All other

sanding operations are done with a nar-

row strip of abrasive paper. The applica-

tion of the sandpaper strip is shown in the

illustrations. Care must be exercised in

order to prevent dubbing the corners of

beads, shoulders, etc.

Sandpaper

Coves

WARNING: Remove tool rest

when sanding to prevent serious

personal injury.

Wood

Fibers

Sandpaper

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Wiring Diagram

White

Motor

Outlet

Black

Insulated

Cap Flag

Terminal

Switch

Green

Black

Green

Power

Cord

Maintenance

Lubrication

Periodically lubricate the ram in

the tailstock with No. 20 or No. 30

engine oil.

WARNING: For your own safety,

turn switch "OFF" and remove plug

from power source outlet before

maintaining or lubricating your

lathe.

Motor Maintenance And Lubrication

1. The bearings, in both end shields of the

motor, have been lubricated at the fac-

tory with correct lubricant. No other part

of the motor requires lubrication.

Apply a coat of automobile-type wax to

the lathe bed to help the tool rest and tail-

stock move freely.

Have power cord replaced if it becomes

worn or frayed.

2. If disassembly of the motor is neces-

sary, it should be returned to your near-

est RIDGID Service Center retail store

in order to prevent voiding the guaran-

tee.

NOTE: The speed of this motor cannot

be regulated or changed.

Recommended Accessories

Item

Description

Replacement Safety Keys ...........AC1000

Drill Chuck ...................................AC2020

Work Arbor...................................AC8010

4" Faceplate.................................AC8040

Bowl Turning Tool Rest................AC8070

Her-U-Lift (required purchase of

AC9951 - Wood Lathe Extensions

for use on the WL1200)...............AC9950

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Troubleshooting

General

WARNING: For your own safety, turn switch "OFF" and remove plug from

power source outlet before trouble shooting.

Trouble

Probable Cause

Remedy

Motor will not run

1. Defective On-Off

switch.

1. Replace defective parts before

using lathe again.

Defective switch cord.

Defective switch box

receptacle.

2. Motor protector open, 2. Reset protector when motor has

(only if your motor is

equipped with an

cooled.

overload protector).

3. Burned out motor.

3. Consult an Authorized Service

Center. Any attempt to repair this

motor may create a HAZARD

unless repair is done by a qualified

service technician.

4. Index pin engaged.

1. V-belt is too loose

4. Disengage index pin (see “Getting

to Know Your Wood Lathe”) sec-

tion.

Lathe slows down

when turning

1. Adjust belt tension. See “Assembly”

Section.

Tailstock rocks back 1. Brass adjusting screw 1. Adjust screw. See “Assembly” sec-

and forth excessively. is too loose.

tion.

Bed loose in head-

stock

1. Hex head locking

screw not tight.

1. Tighten hex head locking screw.

See “Assembly” section.

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Motor

Trouble

Excessive noise

Probable Cause

1. Motor

Remedy

1. Have motor checked by qualified

service technician. Repair service

is available at an Authorized

RIDGID Service Center.

Motor fails to develop 1. Circuit overloaded

1. Do not use other appliances or

motors on same circuit when using

the lathe.

full power. NOTE:

LOW VOLTAGE:

(Power output of

with light, appliances

and other motors.

motor decreases rap- 2. Undersize wires or

2. Increase wire sizes, or reduce

length of wiring. See “motor Speci-

fications and Electrical Require-

ments” section.

idly with decrease in

voltage at motor ter-

minals. For example,

a reduction of 10% in

voltage causes a

reduction of 19% in

maximum power out-

put of which the

circuit too long.

3. General overloading 3. Request a voltage check from the

of power company

facilities.

power company.

motor is capable and

a reduction of 20% in

voltage causes a

reduction of 36% in

maximum power out-

put.)

Motor starts slowly or 1. Low voltage will not 1. Request voltage check from the

fails to come up to

full speed.

trip relay.

power company.

2. Windings burned out 2. Have motor repaired or replaced.

or open.

Motor overheats

1. Motor overloaded.

1. Take shallower cuts.

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Troubleshooting (continued)

Motor (continued)

Trouble

Probable Cause

Remedy

Starting switch in

motor will not oper-

ate.

1. Burned switch con-

tacts (due to

1. Have switch replaced and request

a voltage check from the power

extended hold-in peri- company.

ods caused by low

line voltage, etc.)

2. Shorted capacitor

2. Have capacitor tested and replace

if defective.

3. Loose or broken con- 3. Have wiring checked and repaired.

nections.

Motor stalls

(resulting in blown

1. Starting switch not

operating.

1. Have switch replaced.

fuses or tripped circuit 2. Voltage too low to

2. Request voltage check from the

power company.

breakers).

permit motor to reach

operating speed.

3. Fuses or circuit break- 3. Install proper size fuses or circuit

ers do not have suffi-

cient capacity.

breakers.

Frequent opening of 1. Motor overloaded.

1. Take shallower cuts.

fuses or circuit break- 2. Fuses or circuit break- 2. Install proper size fuses or circuit

ers.

ers do not have suffi-

cient capacity.

breakers.

3. Starting switch not

operating (motor does

not reach speed).

3. Have switch replaced.

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Repair Parts

RIDGID 12" Wood Lathe

Model No. WL1200LS1

Figure 1

NOTE: Any attempt to repair this motor may create a hazard unless repair is done by

qualified service technician.

Repair service is available at an Authorized Service Center.

Always order by Part Number -- Not by Key Number

Key

Part No.

Description

No.

828929

830177

Motor

Cord, Motor

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Repair Parts

RIDGID 12" Wood Turning Lathe Model WL1200LS1

Figure 2

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Repair Parts

RIDGID 12" Wood-Turning Lathe Model No. WL1200LS1

Figure 2

Always order by Part Number -- Not by Key Number

Key

No.

Key

No.

Part No.

826550

Description

Headstock

Plunger

Pin, Roll 2.5-12

Spring

Housing, Plunger

Center, Point

Center, Spur

Nut, Hex 3/4-16

Spindle

Part No.

Description

38 826586

* Screw, Pan Hd Ty T

M5 x 0.8-12

826564

813249-54

826563

826562

826584

826582

816989

826553

39 826606

40 813314-8

41 824026-4

42 829787

43 826122

44 817450-7

Box, Junction

* Lockwasher, Ext M5

* Nut, Hex M4 x 0.7

Switch, Locking

Key Switch

* Screw, Pan Hd Ty T

M4 x .7-8

10 826552

11 826551

12 820377-2

Bearing, Ball

Ring, Retaining

Bolt, Carriage

M6 x 1.0-65

Wheel, Hand

Housing, Tailstock

Stud, Nut

45 826396

46 60341

47 826599

48 See Fig. 1

49 826556

50 830245

Bezel, Switch

Outlet

Guard Asm.

Motor

13 826560

14 828268

15 826591

16 826592

17 817449-1

18 826587

Pulley, 4 Step

* Screw, Soc Set

M8 x 1.25-8

Operator’s Manual

Operator’s Manual -

Spanish

Lever

51 SP6489

52 SP6489S

Nut, Lock M6 x 1.0

* Screw, Pan Hd.

M8 x 1.25-45

Foot, Rear

Nut, Sq. M8 x 1.25

Screw, Sl Set

M8 x 1.25-31.75

* Nut, Hex M8 x 1.25

Spindle, Tailstock

Center, Live

Rest, 12" Tool

Holder, Tool Rest

Clamp, Support

Tube Asm

* Belt, V 1/2 x 37

* Screw, Pan Cr

M4 x 0.7-8

Wrench, Hex L M4

Rest, 6" Tool

Knob, Guard

Cord w/Plug

Clamp, Cord

* Screw, Pan Hd

M4 x 0.7 x 8

53 SP6489F

Operator’s Manual -

French

19 826577

20 820258-4

21 828180

54 826572

Pulley, 4 Step

* Lockwasher M6

* Lockwasher Int M4

* Screw, Hex Hd

M6 x 1.0-12

Bolt, Cup Hd Sq Neck

M6 x 1.0-45

* Washer, M6

* Screw, Soc Set

M8 x 1.25-8

55 818826-6

56 813163-6

57 820249-6

22 820326-7

23 826559

24 AC8020

25 826574

26 826575

27 826576

28 826571

29 808644

30 816743-4

58 820377-1

59 820238-7

60 830245

61 826554

62 821750

Collar

* Screw, Hex Head

M10 x 1.5-30

Plate, Guard

Shoe, Lock

Stud, Nut

31 813317-7

32 826570

33 826601

34 826607

35 63418

63 826605

64 826590

65 826593

66 830244

67 826569

68 818826-4

69 828217

70 AC8060

Relief, Strain

Bracket, Plate

* Lockwasher, M4

* Nut, Acorn M4

Faceplate, 6 In.

36 816743-4

37 820236-6

Nut Hex M6 x 1.0

* Standard Hardware Item - May Be Purchased Locally

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Repair Parts

RIDGID 12" Wood-Turning Lathe

Model No. WL1200LS1

Figure 2

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Repair Parts

RIDGID 12" Wood-Turning Lathe

Model No. WL1200LS1

Figure 3

Always order by Part Number -- Not by Key Number

Key

Part No.

Description

820377-1

826579

Bolt, Rd. Hd. Sq. Neck M6 x 1.0-45

Plate, Support

826619

826890

Board, Wood Lathe

Leg

826581

Support, End

826580

Support, Side

817449-1

818826-6

820238-7

821103

821063-2

818826-7

820236-7

803835-1

805483

* Nut, Hex M6 x 1.0

* Lockwasher, M6

* Washer, M6

Bolt, Rd. Hd. Sq. Neck M8 x 1.25-16

* Washer, M8 x 16 x 1.6

* Lockwasher, M8

* Nut, Hex M8

Foot, Leveling

* Nut, Hex Jam 3/8-16

* Standard hardware item - may be purchased locally.

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This product is manufactured under license from Ridgid, Inc.

by One World Technologies, Inc. All warranty communica-

tions should be directed to One World Technologies, Inc. at

(toll-free) 1-866-539-1710.

90-DAY SATISFACTION GUARANTEE POLICY

During the first 90 days after the date of purchase, if you are

dissatisfied with the performance of this RIDGID tool for any

reason you may return the tool to the dealer from which it was

purchased for a full refund or exchange. To receive a replace-

ment tool you must present proof of purchase and return all

original equipment packaged with the original product. The

replacement tool will be covered by the limited warranty for

the balance of the three year warranty period.

WHAT IS COVERED UNDER THE LIMITED THREE YEAR

WARRANTY

This warranty covers all defects in workmanship or materials

in this RIDGID tool for the three year period from the date of

purchase. This warranty is specific to this tool. Warranties for

other RIDGID products may vary.

HOW TO OBTAIN SERVICE

To obtain service for this RIDGID tool, you must return it,

freight prepaid, to an authorized RIDGID service center for

hand held and stationary power tools. You may obtain the

location of the authorized service center nearest you by call-

ing (toll-free) 1-866-539-1710 or by logging on to the RIDGID

website at www.ridgidwoodworking.com. When requesting

warranty service, you must present the proof of purchase

documentation, which includes a date of purchase. The

authorized service center will repair any faulty workmanship,

and either repair or replace any defective part, at our option at

no charge to you.

WHAT IS NOT COVERED

This warranty applies only to the original purchaser at retail

and may not be transferred. This warranty only covers defects

arising under normal usage and does not cover any malfunc-

tion, failure or defect resulting from misuse, abuse, neglect,

alteration, modification or repair by other than an authorized

RIDGID service center for hand held and stationary power

tools. One World Technologies, Inc. makes no warranties,

representations or promises as to the quality or performance

of its power tools other than those specifically stated in this

warranty.

ADDITIONAL LIMITATIONS

To the extent permitted by applicable law, all implied warran-

ties, including warranties of MERCHANTABILITY or FIT-

NESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, are disclaimed. Any

implied warranties, including warranties of merchantability or

fitness for a particular purpose, that cannot be disclaimed

under state law are limited to three years from the date of pur-

chase. One World Technologies, Inc. is not responsible for

direct, indirect, incidental or consequential damages. Some

states do not allow limitations on how long an implied war-

ranty lasts and/or do not allow the exclusion or limitation of

incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitations

may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal

rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from

state to state.

Stock No. WL1200LS Model No. WL1200LS1

Serial No. ___________ Model and serial num-

bers may be found under belt guard. You should

record serial number in a safe place for future use.

QUESTIONS OR COMMENTS?

CALL 1-866-539-1710

www.ridgidwoodworking.com

Please have your Model Number and Serial

Number on hand when calling.

OWT Industries, Inc.

Hwy. 8

Pickens, SC 29671

Part No. SP6489

Form No. SP6489

Printed in China 5/03

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