I N S T A L L A T I O N G U I D E
CM610
CM630
H I G H P E R F O R M A N C E C E I L I N G L O U D S P E A K E R S
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CONGRATULATIONS!
Thank you for choosing a CM610 or CM630 loudspeaker from Niles. With proper installation and operation, you will enjoy years of
trouble-free use. Niles manufactures the industry’s most complete line of custom installation components and accessories for audio/video
systems. To see the complete Niles product assortment, visit us on the Internet at: www.nilesaudio.com
PACKAGE CONTENTS
Each package contains one pair of CM610 or CM630 loudspeakers; 1 pair of Aluminum MicroPerf Grilles; 1 pair of molded plastic grilles
that masquerade as a recessed light fixture and 1 pair of cardboard paint mask/hole cutout templates.
INSTALLATION CONSIDERATIONS
We recommend using the following tools and material to install your Niles CM loudspeaker:
• Cordless drill with 1/4 – and 1/2-inch drill bits and
a 1-inch paddle drill bit (for drilling through studs)
• Wire stripper
• Stud finder
• Cable ties
• Pencil
• Stiff wire, fish tape or glow rods for routing cables
• Rubber gloves and protective eyewear
• Keyhole or drywall saw
• Phillips screwdriver set
Before starting the installation, please observe the following precautions:
• Turn off all system power before making
any connections
• Make sure hands are clean before installation
• Wear gloves when working with fiberglass
insulation
• Always wear protective eyewear when using tools
RUNNING WIRES IN WALLS OR CEILINGS
When running loudspeaker wire inside walls or ceilings, use special jacketed cable (a minimum of 18 to 16-gauge two-conductor CL-2
or CL-3 rated loudspeaker wire) to protect the wire and for fire prevention. In some areas, conduit is also required. For a trouble-free
installation, low-voltage wire such as loudspeaker wire must be run in accordance with the National Electrical Code and any applicable
provisions of the local building code. If you are unsure of the correct installation techniques, wire jacket, or type of conduit to use, consult a
professional audio/video installer, building contractor, or the local building and inspection department.
SELECTING THE LOCATION FOR YOUR LOUDSPEAKERS
The CM600 series loudspeakers are designed to be installed in any standard ceiling. There are two considerations for placing the
loudspeaker; ease of running the cable to the loudspeaker and coverage of the loudspeaker. The best stereo effect will be achieved if both
the loudspeakers are at equal distance from the listener and closer together than the listener is from the loudspeakers. Avoid installing the
loudspeakers near corners to prevent a “boomy” or diffracted sound. The CM600 series loudspeakers will cover an area of a circle with a
16-foot diameter when mounted at an 8-foot height. (See Figure 1)
EXISTING CONSTRUCTION INSTALLATION
IMPORTANT: BEFORE YOU CUT INTO ANY WALL, REVIEW THE PRIOR SECTION ON LOUDSPEAKER PLACEMENT WHEN SELECTING THE
LOCATION FOR YOUR LOUDSPEAKERS.
1. When determining the location of the loudspeaker cutout, keep in mind that the mounting dogs will extend 3/4” beyond the cutout.
Make sure that you do not place the edge of the cutout directly next to a ceiling joist. Locate the joists using a stud sensor or by hand
knocking. Use the supplied cutout template (remove the largest perforated circle and use cardboard square with hole as the template) to
determine how large of a hole you will need to cut. These templates are packed with your loudspeakers between the styrofoam packing
and the ends of the box.
2. Once you have determined a possible position for the cutout, drill a 1/8” pilot hole just barely through the ceiling (1/2” to 5/8” deep in
most homes) in the center of your proposed loudspeaker location.
BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL THROUGH EXISTING WIRES, PIPES, OR STRUCTURE. IF YOU FEEL ANY EXTRA RESISTANCE AS YOU
ARE DRILLING, STOP.
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3. Cut a foot-long piece of coat hanger. Bend the wire (creating a right angle) leaving 4-1/2” at one end (this allows for the extra width of
the mounting dogs). Poke the “L-shaped” wire into the pilot hole and turn it in a complete circle and move it into the ceiling cavity to
make sure you have approximately 3-7/8” of depth. If the wire’s movement is obstructed by anything, fill the hole(s) with spackle and try
another location.
4. If the coat hanger moves freely in a complete circle and you have sufficient depth, hold the template up to the ceiling surface. The
cardboard square with the circular hole is the template. The inner perforated circle within the larger circle that was removed in step 1
earlier is the paint mask. Keep it for painting the loudspeaker later. Outline the circular cutout on the ceiling surface lightly with a pencil.
Drill the starting point of your cut with a 1/4” bit.
5. If you are cutting drywall use a sheetrock or keyhole saw, cut the hole with the saw at a 45° angle. That way the drywall section can be
replaced cleanly if there is an unseen obstruction behind the wall.
IMPORTANT: BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO SAW THROUGH EXISTING WIRES, PIPES, OR STRUCTURE.
IF YOU FEEL EXTRA RESISTANCE AS YOU ARE CUTTING, STOP.
NEW CONSTRUCTION INSTALLATION
INSULATING THE WALL CAVITY
If feasible, fill the wall cavity with insulation at this point.
MOUNTING THE NEW CONSTRUCTION BRACKET
The optional CM600 BKT can be used with the CM610 or CM630. The hole saving bracket enables a faster and cleaner final installation
of the loudspeaker. It forces the drywall installer to cut out the loudspeaker hole for you and provides wire ties for the loudspeaker wire,
reducing the risks of accidental loss or movement of the wire. In addition, it enables you to align your loudspeakers with other ceiling
fixtures with great accuracy since you can really see exactly where the loudspeaker will be. To install the bracket, first pivot the long wing
out until it stops, which will be in straight line with the short wing. The wings and brackets have centering lines to simplify placement of the
loudspeakers. Screw one side of the assembled bracket with wings to the joist using one of the supplied screws. Level the bracket. Screw
the other side of the bracket/wing assembly to the joist. Two screws on each side make for a very secure installation. Secure the wire to
the bracket using bracket’s wire tie tab. The drywall installers will cut the drywall to the exact size of the bracket. (See Figure 2)
CONCEALING LOUDSPEAKER WIRE FOR A FUTURE INSTALLATION
Attach the loudspeaker wire in a loop between the ceiling joists and carefully mark the exact location of the wire on a set of plans. Ask the
general contractor to inform the drywall installers that the loudspeaker wire loops are concealed for future installations.
UNPACKING AND FINAL INSTALLATION
1. Remove the top piece of stryofoam from the box. You will find two loudspeakers bagged in a lower portion of packing. Remove the
loudspeaker from the bag. The metal grille is installed on the loudspeaker and will need to be removed. This is easily done by rotating
the mounting ‘dogs’ out with your fingers and pulling them towards the front of the loudspeaker. This will push the screw heads against
the inside of the grille to work it out of the baffle. A pair of plastic grilles is also included in the packing. These may be used in place of
the metal grilles to give the loudspeaker the appearance of a light fixture. (See Figure 3)
2. At each loudspeaker location, route the wire to the input connectors, then separate the loudspeaker wire so that at least 2 inches of each
conductor are free. Strip away 1/4 inch of insulation from each individual loudspeaker wire.
3. Press down each spring-loaded connector one at a time, insert the appropriate conductor and then release the connector. Check to be
sure that the connector is making contact with stripped wire and not the wire jacket. Gently tug on the loudspeaker wire to make sure it
is held in place. If not, repeat this procedure until it is.
IMPORTANT: OBSERVE CORRECT POLARITY: POSITIVE (+) GOES TO THE RED POST AND NEGATIVE (–) GOES TO THE BLACK POST.
4. Rotate dogs back to their original positions so that they do not protrude out from the diameter of the loudspeaker.
5. Insert the loudspeaker into the hole by carefully holding it with both hands and angling it slowly into the hole until the frame is flush with
the ceiling. Holding it in place carefully with one hand, (do not push against the woofer or tweeter) use a cordless drill to begin mounting
the loudspeaker.
6. Tighten the four screws using a #2 Phillips bit. Use low torque and low speed or you may damage the loudspeaker. This should pull the
frame and mounting dog together (sandwiching the drywall) so that the frame is absolutely flush with the wall surface. There should be
no gaps between the wall and the frame.
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SPECIFICATIONS
Recommended
Normal
Frequency
Frame
Hole Cut-Out Depth Behind
Model
Sensitivity
Amplifier Power Impedance Response
Dimensions Dimensions
Ceiling
90 dB with
2.83 V pink
noise input
measured
at 1 meter
on axis
CM610
8 ohm
nominal;
6 ohm
6" polypropylene woofer
with treated urethane
surround and one fluid-
cooled 13mm Kaladex
tweeter.
5 to 50 watts
per channel
7-3/4 inches
(19.7 cm
diameter)
6-1/2 inches
(16.5 cm
diameter)
65Hz - 20kHz
+/-4dB
3-5/8 inches
(9.2 cm)
minimum
91 dB with
2.83 V pink
noise input
measured
at 1 meter
on axis
CM630
8 ohm
nominal;
6 ohm
6" polypropylene woofer
with treated urethane
surround and one fluid-
cooled 13mm Kaladex
tweeter.
10 to 75 watts
per channel
7-3/4 inches
(19.7 cm
diameter)
6-1/2 inches
(16.5 cm
diameter)
65Hz - 20kHz
+/-3dB
3-7/8 inches
(9.8 cm)
minimum
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TECHNICAL SUPPORT
IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS ABOUT THE INSTALLATION OR OPERATION OF THIS OR ANY OTHER NILES PRODUCT,
PLEASE CALL OUR TECHNICAL SUPPORT DEPARTMENT AT 1-800-BUY-HIFI (1-800-289-4434). SUPPORT IS
AVAILABLE WEEKDAYS 8:00 A.M. TO 7:00 P.M. EASTERN TIME WITH THE EXCEPTION OF HOLIDAYS.
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N i l e s A u d i o C o r p o r a t i o n
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©2008 Niles Audio Corporation. All rights reserved. Niles, Blending High Fidelity and
Architecture and the Niles logos are registered trademarks of Niles Audio Corporation.
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