Niles Audio Portable Speaker HD5 User Manual

I N S T A L L A T I O N & O P E R A T I O N G U I D E

M O D E L S

B L E N D I N G H I G H F I D E L I T Y

A N D A R C H I T E C T U R E

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thunderous action in a movie. They are

perfect anywhere that quality of sound is

the most important consideration.

Introduction

The HD or High Definition group of

In-Wall Loudspeakers offers speakers

expressly designed for superior sonic

quality. They employ advanced technolo-

gy components designed to extract the

subtle nuances in recorded music or the

An HD5/HD6/HD8/HD8.3 Speaker Kit;

and the corresponding Bracket Kit (5,

6 or 8) is required to install one pair of

HD5/HD6/HD8/HD8.3 In-Wall loud-

speakers in either new or existing

construction.

the tweeter to be accurately positioned after

installation for optimum performance and

without the diffraction distortion typical of

traditional pivoting tweeters.

Features and Benefits

Injection Molded TCC™ (Talc, Carbon

and Ceramic) Woofer with Butyl Rubber

Surround Vented Pole Piece, Vented

Pole Piece and Custom Debris Screen

The Niles High Definition series loud-

speakers employ a newly developed cone

material that combines injection molded

polypropylene with talc, carbon and

ceramic stiffening agents. The result is a

cone that offers extreme stiffness and light

weight for accurate, dynamic response.

Additionally, the woofer employs a vented

pole piece for increased bass linearity and

a Butyl Rubber Surround for improved

midrange damping and clarity as well as

moisture resistance.

Antiresonant Wave Bracing

The HD speaker’s baffle design employs

specially molded ribs that increase the

rigidity of the baffle and raise the resonant

frequency so that less “out-of-phase” can-

cellation takes place. Equally important,

the ribs are curved and crossed to further

shift vibration modes away from low-bass

canceling frequencies. This keeps bass

tones rich and dynamic.

Front-Mounted Bass & Treble Controls

Niles High Definition speaker models

feature baffle-mounted tone controls for

Bass and Treble that enable instant fine

tuning after the speakers are installed. This

feature helps to lessen the effects of less

than perfect placement or other room

acoustics anomalies.

1” Teteron Tri-laminate Tweeter

Housed in a Precision Adjustment

Mechanism

The HD series Teteron Tweeter employs a

tri-laminate design consisting of an inner

textile layer which forms the dome, a high

damping layer to kill unwanted resonances

and an outside layer of urethane to add

stiffness and prevent breakup modes. The

result is a transparently clear, sweet, natur-

al sounding tweeter which still maintains

extended frequency response.

Snap-in Baffle Assembly

This proprietary Niles design enables

installers to attach Niles loudspeaker

assemblies to previously installed frames

without additional hardware or tools. Niles'

Snap-in design makes it easy to upgrade

Niles' speakers after installation without the

hassles associated with removal and re-

installation of traditional designs. Snap-in

baffles make installation of Niles speaker

baffles easier and faster than other in-wall

brands.

This advanced tweeter is housed in a preci-

sion adjustment mechanism which permits

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BumpBack™ Woofer Magnet

particular stage of construction. When the

Niles engineers have utilized a unique framing and wiring are finished, you install

motor construction enabling far greater the bracket. After the drywall is up, but

“throw” or voice coil excursion. This before the painter begins to paint, you

allows a high level of bass performance to install the frame and provide the rustproof

be achieved.

aluminum grilles to the painter so that they

can be painted to match the surroundings.

Only when construction is completely fin-

Moisture Resistant Construction

The HD loudspeakers are suitable for use ished do you put the valuable speaker in

in high moisture environments. The dri- the wall. You don’t have to mask or prep

vers are impervious to moisture; the grille the speaker for painting, and worries about

is made of powder-coated aluminum, and theft during the final phases of construction

all exposed hardware is made of stainless are never an issue!

steel. However, the speakers are not

waterproof and direct contact with water Low Diffraction, MicroPerf™

should be avoided.

Aluminum Grilles

HD speakers include aluminum grilles.

The painted aluminum grille has hundreds

of precisely sized perforations, creating an

Absolutely Flush to the Wall

Appearance

The unique mounting system of the HD acoustically transparent grille.

loudspeakers powerfully clamps the frame

to the bracket, sandwiching the wall mate- Infrared Sensor Mount

rial between them. Because the clamping The speaker baffle has a locator designed

action is totally uniform around the frame, for the Niles MS-110 MicroSensor , a

there are no shadows or gaps between the miniature infrared sensor. The MS110

wall and the frame. Additionally, the Niles installs discreetly behind the aluminum

mounting system is carefully optimized to grille and therefore minimizes wall clut-

stiffen the surrounding drywall and pre- ter in your home. When you want to

vent it from resonating. You hear only the control your equipment, you simply

music, not the drywall.

point your remote control at the speaker

from up to 15 feet away.

Easy Retrofit Installation in your

Existing Home

Designed for ease of installation, the Niles

mounting system makes retrofit installa-

tions simple and fast. A supplied template

assures fast and accurate hole cutting. The

bracket slips behind the drywall and the

screws secure the bracket to the frame,

sandwiching the drywall between them.

The speaker baffle attaches to the frame,

and the grille mounts over the speaker.

Three Stage Installation System for

Remodels or New Construction

You install only the parts you need for a

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Figure 1

Model HD8 Shown

New Construction Wings

Bracket

Frame

Speaker Baffle

IR Knockout

Grille

Installation Considerations

Recommended Amplifier Power

Incorporating a Local Volume Control

For satisfactory performance, we recom- In a multiroom system there is one indis-

mend an amplifier with a power rating of pensible device for true convenience—a

ten to one hundred watts for the HD5; local volume control. It allows you to

and ten to one hundred twenty-five watts adjust the volume of the speakers without

for the HD6, and ten to one hundred fifty leaving the room.

watts for the HD8 and HD8.3. Curiously,

Plan to wire the system so that each pair

most speakers are not damaged by large

of speakers has its own volume control

amplifiers but by small amplifiers. If your

built into the wall (think of a volume con-

system is playing loudly, a small amplifier

trol as a dimmer switch for sound).

will run out of power very quickly. When

Niles makes a wide range of high perfor-

mance indoor and outdoor volume con-

trols. They are available in Standard or

Decora^®style cover plates (just like your

light switches and dimmers). Volume con-

trols are connected in line with the speak-

an amplifier runs out of power it creates

damaging “clipping” distortion. A large

amplifier will play at the same volume

without distorting. See the section on

operating the speakers for more informa-

tion about clipping distortion.

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er, so you must connect the wire from the the grille of your Niles HD speakers.

amplifier to the volume control and then

from the volume control to the speaker.

An IR sensor requires that a 2-conductor

shielded wire (West Penn D291 or equiva-

lent) be home run from each sensor loca-

Speaker Wire

Use 2-conductor speaker wire when con- tion to the main equipment location. This

necting HD speakers to your receiver or wire is normally run beside the speaker

amplifier. For most applications, we rec- wire at the same time. Typically, the sen-

ommend you use 16 or 18 gauge stranded sor is placed in a location that faces your

wire. For wiring runs longer than 80 feet listening position. Most remote controls

we recommend 14 gauge stranded wire. will have an effective line of sight range of

The no-strip terminals of the HD speakers 18 to 30 feet with any Niles sensor placed

will accommodate 12 to 18 gauge wire.

in a wall, ceiling, on a cabinet or tabletop.

When you run wire inside walls, special However, when you place a Niles MS110

jacketing (CL-2 or CL-3) is required to MicroSensor^®behind the perforated alu-

both protect the wire and for fire preven- minum grille of a speaker the effective

tion. In some areas conduit is required. range is reduced to 9 to 15 feet.

For a trouble-free installation, low voltage

wire such as speaker wire must be run in

accordance with the National Electrical

Code and any applicable provisions of the

local building code. If you are unsure of

the correct installation techniques, wire

jacket or type of conduit to use, consult a

professional audio/video installer, your

building contractor, or the local building

and inspection department.

Insulating the Wall Cavity

For best performance from your speakers fill

the wall cavity behind the speaker with

fiberglass insulation (e.g. R-19 unbated insu-

lation). Try to keep the same amount of

insulation for each speaker, particularly in

the same room, for consistent bass response.

Incorporating a Remote Control

If you are planning to use a stereo system

with a hand held IR remote control, con-

sider the advantages of installing a Niles

IR Repeater system. You are able to con-

trol all of the functions of your system

from the room with the remote pair of

speakers. Niles makes a number of IR sen-

sors which install in the wall, in the ceiling,

in cabinetry, on tabletops, or even behind

TECH TIP

Wire size is expressed by its AWG (American Wire

Gauge) number. The lower the number, the larger

the wire, i.e. twelve AWG is physically larger than

fourteen AWG.

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the front of the speaker. To determine the

best position, measure the “listening” dis-

tance between the ideal listening position

(your favorite chair or couch) and the wall

in which you plan to install the speakers.

Try to place the speakers so that they are

equally distant from your listening spot and

at least one half of the listening distance

apart (this maintains a large pleasant stereo

“image”). In home theater applications

where there is a center channel you may

choose to space the left and right main

speakers farther apart for a “bigger than

life” sound with Dolby^®encoded movies

and TV shows. However, for combined

music and movie usage stay within the

good placement zone for music. For exam-

ple; if you are ten feet back from the wall,

the speakers should be between five and

ten feet apart (See Figure 2).

Speaker Placement

Placement for Critical Listening

If you like to imagine that the band or

orchestra is playing in front of you as you

listen to music, or you are very conscious of

clarity, detail and the textures of the individ-

ual instruments, you are a critical listener.

In a home theater, the intelligibility of dia-

log and action reproduced by the front

speakers is paramount! The position of the

speakers plays a very important role in

how clear the sound is and how a stereo

image is created. Here are some guide-

lines to make the process of placement

quick and easy.

Make sure the sound will not be blocked

or reflected off of furniture or other objects.

You should have a direct line of sight with

Speaker

Placement

Zone

10’

5’

10’

Speaker

Placement

Zone

Figure 2

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The Boundary Effect

You can make listener position still less

Corners can affect the bass response of critical by using mono rather than stereo.

the speaker powerfully! This is called the This can be difficult to achieve with nor-

boundary effect. You will emphasize par- mal stereo amplifiers. However, Niles

ticular bass frequencies and cancel out manufactures Systems Integration

other bass frequencies when you place Amplifiers which enable one room to be

speakers close to the wall/ceiling bound- wired in stereo while other rooms are

ary or a corner wall boundary. This can wired in mono! Consult your local Niles

make the speaker sound excessively dealer for more information.

boomy and inaccurate to some listeners,

In smaller rooms or rooms that are infre-

while to others it just seems like more

quently used, you typically can’t justify

bass sound. A good rule of thumb is if

the expense of more than two speakers.

you always listen to your current pair of

Try to bracket the room with the two

speakers with the bass turned up, you’ll

speakers. Diagonal placement is a very

enjoy corner placement. If you keep your

effective way to stretch the coverage pat-

tone controls at neutral, try to keep the

tern of two speakers. You can also com-

speakers at least two or three feet from

promise between direct sound (for detail

the boundaries of the room.

and clarity) and reflected sound (the

Placement for Varying Listening

Positions

ambient or “all around you” effect). By

trying to place the speakers so that they

create as much reflected sound as possi-

ble you emphasize the ambient effect.

They can be up high in the wall or even

down low at power outlet height , in the

ceiling, near corners, or directed at

reflective objects and walls. The more

reflected sound there is in the room the

stronger the ambient effect at low vol-

umes. You should use moderation, how-

ever, otherwise the compromise becomes

too one sided and at high volumes, the

sound will be blurred and less distinct.

If you want the freedom to sit anywhere

in a room facing any direction, and/or

find that you prefer the “all around you”

sound of some car stereos to a conven-

tional “sound stage” facing you, consider

the speaker placement techniques profes-

sional installers use in restaurants and

bars. They place speakers in an array

around the listening area, so that the

music is always surrounding you, regard-

less of the direction you face.

The rule of thumb is to add one pair of

speakers for every 100 to 200 square feet Placement for Home Theater Rear

of listening area. Curiously, this is not so Applications

that you can play the music louder, but In a home theater, the goal is to repro-

so that you can play it softer! When you duce the experience of a great movie the-

have only one pair of speakers in a large ater in our homes. The biggest difference

room you will notice that when the between the two is the rear or surround

sound is perfect in one part of the room, speaker array in a commercial theater.

it is too loud near the speakers. By plac- Here, it is not uncommon to see twenty

ing more than one pair in the room you or thirty speakers around the audience.

will avoid these “hot spots” of loud This huge array of speakers assures that

sound and you will create more sonic you will feel completely surrounded by

ambiance while maintaining clarity and a the ambient soundtrack of the movie.

rich sound everywhere.

Film makers try to use the “surround”

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soundtrack to envelope you in the envi- the rear speakers, stay within five to eight

ronment on screen. They will place back-

ground music, rain sounds, traffic noise,

etc. on the “surround” soundtrack. In a

home with a single pair of speakers it is

easy for the jungle sounds to sound like

they are “in the middle of your head” just

like headphones!

feet of the listening location. If you are

using a 25 to 50 watt amplifier you can

mount the speakers 10 to 15 feet away

from the listening location and still

achieve reasonably high volume levels.

Of course, the best way to emulate the

sound of multiple speakers is to use multi-

ple speakers. In large or unusually shaped

rooms this might be the only way to

achieve a good effect. If you like to listen

to music surround modes which emulate

A single pair of HD Loudspeakers, proper-

ly placed, can create a very convincing

simulation of an array of speakers. If you

place them near a hard reflecting surface

you can make one pair of speakers sound concert hall acoustics, more than two sur-

round speakers will prove extraordinarily

effective. With Niles HD loudspeakers it is

easy to add another pair without affecting

the decor of the room. However, you will

need to use a much more powerful ampli-

fier than that which is built into a typical

surround sound receiver or amplifier. Niles

makes a number of Systems Integration

Amplifiers^®with proprietary features that

make them uniquely suited to enhance a

good surround sound system. Consult your

local Niles dealer for more information.

like several. Create as many reflections as

possible by mounting the speaker up high

in the wall so that the ceiling will act as a

powerful reflector. If you place the speak-

ers near a corner, wash the sound down a

wall from a ceiling location, or mount the

speakers as far away as you can from the

listening area, more reflections will occur.

However, all of these placement tech-

niques require that you work your sur-

round sound amplifier channels harder. If

the surround sound system you are using

has a small five or ten watt amplifier for

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any electrical power cable.

Side-by-side wiring is unavoidable in par-

ticular spots in every house, just move the

speaker wire route away as soon as possi-

ble. If construction forces a side by side

run for more than ten feet, install metal

conduit or shielded speaker wire. Low-

voltage wires such as doorbells, inter-

coms, telephone, security, or television

cannot cause interference or hum on your

speaker wires, so you can safely run all of

them at the same time, through the same

holes, side-by-side.

Installation

Fundamentals

Running the Speaker Wire in New

Construction

If you have doubts about whether you are

capable of installing a Niles HD loud-

speaker in your walls, consult a Niles

dealer or professional installer. They have

special tools, techniques, and experience

to make the impossible possible. The

installer can provide you with an estimate

before any work is done.

Before you drill any holes, mount the

speaker brackets in the desired speaker

locations and mount p-rings or open

backed J-boxes where the in-wall volume

controls and stereo equipment will be.

Scheduling and Preparation

Plan to schedule the speaker wiring after

the electrical wiring is finished. That way

you can avoid wire routes which could

potentially induce hum over the speaker

wire. The basic rules are:

Safety First!

Wear gloves, safety goggles and head pro-

tection when drilling. Avoid nails, they ruin

bits and they can create injury. Pay particu-

lar care when using “hole-hogs” and other

powerful electric drills; the torque of the

drill when suddenly stopped by a nail can

break the wrist of a strong man.

• Never run speaker wire through the

same hole as an electrical cable.

• Never run speaker wire into the same

J-box as electrical cable.

• Avoid running the speaker wire beside

the electrical cable. Keep your speaker

cable at a distance of at least 18"-22" from

Drilling

Use a bit that is large enough for the wires

you plan to run. An auger bit is the pre-

ferred bit for rough-in wiring. It will actu-

ally pull itself through the wood, so that

the drill motor, not you, does most of the

work. You may be drilling a lot of holes,

so this is an important consideration.

Figure 3

Always drill the holes in the center of the

stud. If you have to notch the stud or drill

the hole closer than one inch from the

edge of the stud, protect the wire with a

nail plate (See Figure 3).

When drilling holes in ceiling joists drill

in the center of the joists and try to locate

the hole near the end of the joist. DO

NOT drill through a “gluelam” or any

load bearing beam without the direction

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of your contractor.

cable around the house. What you see

when you look at the painted wall

board, plaster, or paneling is only the

skin of the wall. Behind the skin is the

skeleton; two-by-four wood or metal

“studs” running vertically from the floor

to the ceiling in walls and two-by-six or

larger “joists” running horizontally in the

ceilings and floors. In between the studs

and the joists is the space for the wiring

and plumbing of your home.

Try to line the holes up perfectly, because

it makes pulling the wire much easier. A

good technique is to snap a chalk line

across the face of the studs or against the

bottom of the ceiling joists. Then work

backward so that you can always see the

holes you have already drilled. Paying

careful attention to this will save you a lot

of time later on!

Pulling the Cable

Pull the cable in sections (from the stereo

to the volume control, from the volume

control to the speaker). Start with the

longest sections and use left over wire to

complete the short sections. If you plan to

pull many rooms at the same time

through a central route, walk off the dis-

tance to each destination, add a generous

fudge factor for turns and other obstacles,

then cut off each section so that you have

a bundle of wires you can pull at once.

Exterior walls are different. They must

insulate the house from the heat and cold

outside, so they are stuffed with insulation.

The national building code requires that

the hollow wall space in exterior walls be

broken by a horizontal stud placed

between the vertical studs. This “fire

blocking” makes it very difficult to retrofit

long lengths of wire. In some areas of the

country the exterior walls are constructed

of solid masonry, and have no hollow

space for speakers or wires.

Whenever you run the wire further than

four and one half feet from a hole in a stud

or joist (open attic space, going up walls,

etc.), fasten the wire to the joists or studs

using cable clamps or appropriately sized

wire staples. The wire should not have

large sags in it, nor should it be too tight.

Try to protect the wire from being stepped

on in attics or other unfinished crawl

spaces. There are guard strips, raceways

and conduits which can be used to protect

the cable. Consult the local building code

for special requirements in your area.

Start by examining all the possible routes

you might take to run the speaker wire

from the speaker to the volume control

and back to the stereo. Use a stud sensor

or other device to locate the internal

structure of the wall. You want to avoid

all studs or joists. A typical route would

be: from the speaker location up the

inside of the wall to a new hole drilled

into the top “plate” (horizontal two-by-

four at the top of the inside of the wall),

into the attic crawl space, then down to

the volume control location through

another top plate, back up to the attic,

Concealing Speaker Wire

in Existing Walls

This is actually a fairly simple task if you across the attic, and finally down anoth-

restrict your choice of speaker locations er plate to the wall behind the stereo sys-

and wire routes to the interior walls or tem itself (See Figure 4). The other very

ceilings of your home. Interior walls in common route is through the bottom

almost all North American residences are plate of the wall into an unfinished base-

hollow, so that it is easy to flush mount ment or crawl space.

speakers into them and route new speaker

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cover plate and switch or

receptacle, and shining a pen-

light into the wall. If you have

access to an attic or basement

space you can quickly see

which part of the wall space is

free of obstructions (See

Figure 5).

When you don’t have access

above or below the wall, try

to estimate the existing wire

and pipe locations from the

positions of electrical outlets

and plumbed fixtures on both

sides of the wall. Take a look

at the outside of your house

too, sometimes conduit, vents

or drain pipe will be visible

that give useful information.

Choose the route with the

fewest potential obstacles.

Speaker

Location

Volume

Control

Location

Stereo

Location

Figure 4

If your house is built on a slab or you are

wiring between two finished floors, look

for baseboards which could be removed

and replaced with the wire behind them.

Doorjambs can be removed and often

have enough space for speaker wire all

the way around the door (See Figure 6).

Identify where all of your electrical,

phone, and TV wiring is likely to be and

plan to route around it all. You can acci-

dentally induce 60 Hz hum on your

speakers if you run your speaker wire right

beside electrical wire for more than a few

feet. Try to keep speaker wire running par-

allel to power cables at least 3 feet away.

To find exactly where an electrical cable is

Sometimes, an under-the-carpet run is

possible (there are special flat speaker

routed, try inspecting the inside of the wall wires made for under-the-rug wire runs).

As a last resort, heating and air condition-

ing vents can be used as wire raceways for

by turning off the breaker for a particular

power outlet or switch, removing the

Unobstructed space

for speaker wiring

Figure 5

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Figure 6

plenum rated wire (check your local

building codes, some municipalities

require conduit).

In traditional wood stud/drywall construc-

tion you can cut the hole for the speaker

and utilize the large hole to auger holes

across, up or down the wall for as far as

your drill bit will take you. If you have

matching paint and take reasonable care in

patching you can cut a hatch in the dry-

wall at each stud, run your wire, and patch

and touch-up the wall (See Figure7).

When you are dealing with the unknown

because of the structure of your home, or

with difficult to patch wall materials like

plaster, lath and plaster, faux finishes,

wallpaper etc., be patient. A careful study

of the potential problems before you start

the job will pay off.

Figure 7

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Screw one side of the assembled bracket

with wings to the stud using one of the

supplied screws. Level the bracket. Screw

the other side of the bracket to the stud.

Two or three screws (depending upon the

size of the model) on each side makes for

a very secure installation. Attach the wire

to the bracket at the indicated wire tie

points (See Figure 9).

Installation of

Brackets, Frames

and Grilles in New

Construction

Stage One: Before Drywall is Hung.

Insulating the Wall Cavity.

If feasible, fill the wall cavity with insula-

tion at this point.

Stage Two: Before Paint

Screw the frame to the installed bracket

using the supplied screws. Do not over-

tighten the screws. This will distort the

frame and the grilles will not fit (this is not

permanent, just loosen the screws and the

grille will pop in) (See Figure 10).

Attach the wings to the bracket by snap-

ping them into the sides of the bracket.

The wings can be shortened by breaking

them along the scored lines if their length

will interfere with a corner or eaves. You

can mount the bracket horizontally or ver-

tically (See Figure 8).

Painting the Aluminum Grilles

The grille is important to the sound of the

Figure 8

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HD loudspeakers. Do not fill the holes of

the grille with paint. The grille is construct-

ed of aluminum with a perfectly even

powder coat overall. This powder coat is

an ideal primer.

Remove the grilles before painting. If you are

using spray paint, use two thin coats without

any primer. If you are using a compressor and

a spray gun, use the finest, most diffuse

setting. Practice first on some paper if you

have no experience painting with spray paint.

If you are using an applicator or brush, and

a can of paint, thin the paint first. You do

not want to have to poke hundreds of

holes in your beautifully painted grilles.

Figure 9

Figure 10

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Figure 11

Installation of

Brackets, Frames

and Grilles in

Existing Walls

IMPORTANT: Before you cut into any

wall, review the sections on running

wire and speaker placement.

1. Drill a 1/8” pilot hole just barely

through the wallboard or dry wall (1/2” to

5/8” deep in most homes) about an inch

below the center of your proposed speak-

er location (an inch to the side if you are

mounting the speaker horizontally). BE

VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL

THROUGH EXISTING WIRES, PIPES, OR

STRUCTURE. IF YOU FEEL ANY EXTRA

RESISTANCE AS YOU ARE DRILLING,

STOP. Cut a piece of coat hanger equal to

the width of the bracket. Bend the wire in

half creating a right angle. Poke the “L-

shaped” wire into the pilot hole and turn it

in a complete circle. If it turns freely,

repeat the procedure from a hole about an

inch above the center of your proposed

speaker location (See Figure 11).

If the wires movement is obstructed by a

pipe or cable, fill the hole (s) with spackle

or other patching compound and try

another location.

2. When determining the final location of

the cutout keep in mind that the frame

and bracket will extend beyond the

cutout. Make sure that you do not place

the edge of the cutout directly next to a

stud. Locate the studs using a stud sensor

or hand-knocking. Once you have deter-

mined the correct position for the cutout,

hold the supplied template up to the wall

surface. Level the template in either the

horizontal or the vertical position and

mark the wall with a pencil.

Drill the four corners with a

1/4” drill bit.

3. If you are cutting a painted

or wall papered drywall use

a sheetrock or keyhole saw.

Cut the hole with the saw at

a 45 degree angle. That way,

the drywall section can be

Figure 12

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replaced cleanly if there is an unseen

obstruction behind the wall. BE VERY

CAREFUL NOT TO SAW THROUGH

EXISTING WIRES, PIPES, OR STRUCTURE.

IF YOU FEEL ANY EXTRA RESISTANCE AS

YOU ARE CUTTING, STOP.

Installation of the

Speaker, Sensor and

Grille in New or

4. If you are cutting into lath and plaster

walls, use masking tape to outline your

penciled marks, drill the four corners with

a 1/4” bit and use a razor to score the

plaster down to the lath beneath. Then use

a chisel to remove all of the plaster within

the taped outline. Finally, insert a metal

cutting blade into a sabre saw and very

slowly and carefully saw the lath. Sawing

the lath can easily vibrate plaster off the

wall. If you have the patience, use a pair

of tin snips to slowly nip away at the lath

instead. There is no risk with this method,

it is just time consuming.

Existing Construction

Installing a Niles MS110 MicroSensor

There is a 1/2" round molded "IR Sensor

Knockout" on the face of the speaker baf-

fle. To prevent damage to the crossover

network you must remove the knockout

from the rear of the speaker. Do not

attempt to remove the knockout with the

speaker face up. Lay the speaker face

down on a clean carpet or rug. Put the tip

of a screwdriver into the center of the

round "knockout" and sharply tap the

screwdriver handle as necessary. Install

the MS110 using its mounting hex nut and

washer so that it is tightly secured to the

speaker. Connect all wires and continue

your installation.

5. Fill the wall cavity with insulation at

this point. Remember to use equal

amounts of insulation for each speaker.

6. Slip the mounting bracket through the

hole and pull it toward you so that its front

edge slides into the hole and stops in place.

7. Attach the frame to the bracket by

screwing the frame to the bracket using

the supplied screws. Do not overtighten

the screws, this will distort the frame and

the grilles will not fit (this is not perma-

nent, just loosen the screws and the grille

will pop in). The screws should pull the

frame and bracket together (sandwiching

the drywall) so that the frame is absolutely

flush with the wall surface. There should

be no gaps between the wall and the

frame (See Figure 12).

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Installing the Speaker

If the grille is already

installed, remove it by using

a bent paper clip or the tip

of a corkscrew and pulling

it away from the frame

(See Figure 13).

pushing the speaker for-

ward until the s n a p s

engage (See Figure 16).

8. IMPORTANT:

When installing the

speakers in the ceiling, or

if the installation is in an

earthquake zone, it is recom-

mended that you utilize the

Figure 13

1. Separate the speaker wire so

that at least two inches of each

conductor are free.

enclosed sheet metal screws to secure

2. Strip 1/2" of insulation from the end of the baffle to the frame.

each conductor. (See Figure 1.)

a. Locate the dimples on the front baffle.

b. Place the self-tapping sheet metal

screw in the dimple and turn it with a

screw driver until it cuts through the

baffle and anchors securely in the

frame (See Figure 17).

Figure 1

3. To connect the stripped end of one con-

ductor to the black terminal, push down

on the black terminal lever. Insert

the stripped end of the conductor into

the opening. Release the pressure on

the lever.

4. Repeat #3 with the other conductor and

the red terminal.

Figure 16

5. Connect the opposite ends of these con-

ductors to their respective amplifier ter-

minals. Pay attention to the markings on

the wire. If you are unsure which con-

ductor to insert into which terminal, see

the section titled “Speaker Phase” in the

owner’s manual.

6. Repeat these instructions for each speak-

er you are connecting to the amplifier.

7. Place the speaker baffle in the frame

by inserting the tabs at the base of

the speaker baffle into the corre

sponding holes in the frame and

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1. Stand half way between the two speakers.

2. Play some music with the amplifier or

radio set to Mono.

3. Listen to the richness of the bass and the

loudness of the sound.

4. Turn off the amplifier and reverse the con-

nections on one amplifier channel only.

5. Repeat the listening test with the same

setting of the volume control. When the

sound has a richer bass and is slightly

louder the speakers are working together

or “in-phase”.

Adjusting the Bass and Treble

Controls

The HD High Definition loudspeakers

feature separate baffle-mounted bass and

treble controls for fine tuning after installa-

tion. Each control provides for approxi-

mately 3dB in steps of 1dB of Bass or

Treble reduction. This is useful if the

speakers are placed near boundaries (Bass

Cut) or in a room with highly reflective

surfaces like glass or tile. (Treble Cut).

(See Figure 18).

Figure 17

Speaker Phase

Speaker wire has two conductors. One

conductor is attached to the negative (-)

terminals and one conductor is attached to

the positive (+) terminals of both your

speaker and your amplifier. Usually, the

wire is marked for your convenience.

There are different ways wires are marked:

a stripe on one wire, a ribbed area of one

conductor you can only feel, different col-

ors of metal wire on each conductor, or

there might be a fabric strand or string

wound into one of the conductors. Of

course, there are some wires which appear

completely identical. Be careful, or you

might make a mistake.

If you make a mistake, one speaker will be

playing “out-of-phase” with the other

speaker. An out-of-phase pair of speakers

work against each other and the sound of

the two speakers playing together will be

lacking in bass and be “phasey” sounding.

If you suspect the sound is not right and

you cannot see any markings on the wire,

try this simple test:

Figure 18

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Adjusting the Tweeter

The tweeter is housed in a precision adjust-

ment mechanism which enables precise

aiming of the directional high frequencies to

provide optimum performance. To adjust

the tweeter:

1. Carefully grasp the tweeter housing by

placing your thumb and forefinger in the

indentations provided.

2. Rotate the tweeter housing either clock-

wise or counter clockwise as required.

The mechanism is indexed at equal

intervals so that both speakers in a pair

can be adjusted equally. Simply count

the number of “clicks” as the first tweet-

er is adjusted. Repeat the process for the

second speaker, rotating the tweeter the

same number of “clicks” in the opposite

direction (See Figure 19).

Figure 19

3. Pivot the tweeter on both speakers

equally by depressing the housing at the

arrows until the desired angle is

achieved (See Figure 20).

Installing the Grille

Carefully fit the grille into its recess so that it

is barely in place. Starting with one corner,

go around the speaker, pushing the grille in

a little bit each time. You should be gentle,

the aluminum grille can be easily bent out

of shape. The speaker will have an absolute-

ly flush appearance when it is properly

installed.

Figure 20

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Removal of Speaker Operation

and Grille

Listening at Higher Volumes

It requires more power to achieve a reason-

able volume of sound in a large room than

Removing The Speaker

If the grille is already installed, remove it by it does in a small room. It is possible (even if

using a bent paper clip or the tip of a you are not a teenager) to turn the volume

corkscrew and pulling it away from the frame.

so high that the amplifier runs out of power.

This creates “clipping” distortion.

Utilizing two small screwdrivers or two

needle nose pliers, release the snaps that

hold the speaker to the frame. Insert the

screwdrivers into the holes in the snaps

and exert force straight down (towards the

woofer) until the snaps release. Once the

snaps release, the speaker can be tilted

away from the frame to be removed. Do

not attempt to use the frame for leverage,

as this may damage the surface of the

frame (See Figure 21).

Clipping distortion makes treble sound

very harsh and unmusical. When you hear

harsh sounding treble from any good

speaker, turn the volume down immedi-

ately! Those harsh sounds are masking

some much more powerful ultra-high-fre-

quency sound spikes which will quickly

damage any fine loudspeaker. You are

much less likely to damage a speaker with

a large amplifier because it will be very

loud indeed before it produces any clip-

ping distortion.

Cleaning

You can clean the speaker with a damp-

ened soft cloth or paper towel. If the

speaker is mounted high up on a wall or

ceiling, use a broom to gently brush it off.

N_S

Figure 21

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Specifications

Model HD5

Model HD6

Driver Compliment

6-1/2” Injection-Molded TCC Woofer with

Custom Debris Screen, Butyl Rubber

Surround, High BL Magnet Structure with

Vented Pole Piece

5-1/4” Injection-Molded TCC Woofer with

Custom Debris Screen, Butyl Rubber

Surround, High BL Magnet Structure with

Vented Pole Piece

1” Teteron Tweeter Housed in a Low

Diffraction Precision Adjustment

Mechanism

1” Teteron Tweeter Housed in a Low

Diffraction Precision Adjustment

Mechanism

Design Principle

Infinite baffle for large and varying air

volumes

Design Principle

Infinite baffle for large and varying air

volumes

Recommended Amplifier Power

Ten to One Hundred Twenty Five Watts

per Channel

Recommended Amplifier Power

Ten to One Hundred Watts per Channel

Nominal Impedance

6 Ohms

Nominal Impedance

6 Ohms

Frequency Response

60 Hz to 21,000 Hz, plus or minus 3dB

(on axis)

Frequency Response

50 Hz to 21,000 Hz, plus or minus 3dB

(on axis)

Dispersion Pattern

90 degrees Horizontally or Vertically

(plus or minus 5dB)

Dispersion Pattern

90 degrees Horizontally or Vertically

(plus or minus 5dB)

Sensitivity

88 decibels for 2.83 volts of Pink Noise,

measured at 1 meter on axis

89 decibels for 2.83 volts of Pink Noise,

measured at 1 meter on axis

Overall Exterior Frame Dimensions

7-1/8” x 9-7/8” (18.1 cm x 25.1 cm)

Overall Exterior Frame Dimensions

8-3/4” x 11-11/16” (22.2 cm x 29.7 cm)

Depth Behind Wall

3-1/8” Deep (assumes 1/2” drywall)

(7.9 cm)

Depth Behind Wall

3-1/8” Deep (assumes 1/2” drywall)

(7.9 cm)

Wall Cut-Out Dimensions

6-1/4” x 9” (15.9 cm x 22.9 cm)

Wall Cut-Out Dimensions

7-5/8” x 10-5/8” (19.4 cm x 27 cm)

Wiring Requirements

We recommend 16 to 18 gauge stranded

wire for up to 80 feet, 14 gauge stranded

wire for up to two hundred feet.

Connectors accommodate 12 to 18 gauge

stranded wire.

We recommend 16 to 18 gauge stranded

wire for up to 80 feet, 14 gauge stranded

wire for up to two hundred feet.

Connectors accommodate 12 to 18 gauge

stranded wire.

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Specifications

Model HD8.3

Model HD8

Driver Compliment

8” Injection-Molded TCC Dual Drive

Woofer with Hyperbolic Dispersion

Stabilizer, Custom Debris Screen, Butyl

Rubber Surround, High BL Magnet

Structure with Vented Pole Piece

8” Injection-Molded TCC Woofer with

Custom Debris Screen, Butyl Rubber

Surround, High BL Magnet Structure with

Vented Pole Piece

1” Teteron Tweeter Housed in a Low

Diffraction Precision Adjustment

Mechanism

1” Teteron Tweeter Housed in a Low

Diffraction Precision Adjustment

Mechanism

Design Principle

Infinite baffle for large and varying air

volumes

Infinite baffle for large and varying air

volumes

Recommended Amplifier Power

Ten to One Hundred Fifty Watts per

Channel

Recommended Amplifier Power

Ten to One Hundred Fifty Watts per

Channel

Nominal Impedance

6 Ohms

Nominal Impedance

4 Ohms

Frequency Response

40 Hz to 21,000 Hz, plus or minus 3dB

(on axis)

40 Hz to 21,000 Hz, plus or minus 3dB

(on axis)

Dispersion Pattern

90 degrees Horizontally or Vertically

(plus or minus 5dB)

90 degrees Horizontally or Vertically

(plus or minus 5dB)

Sensitivity

90 decibels for 2.83 volts of Pink Noise,

measured at 1 meter on axis

91 decibels for 2.83 volts of Pink Noise,

measured at 1 meter on axis

Overall Exterior Frame Dimensions

10-3/16” x 14-1/4” (25.9 cm x 36.2 cm)

Depth Behind Wall

3-1/8” Deep (assumes 1/2” drywall)

7.9 cm

Depth Behind Wall

3-1/8” Deep (assumes 1/2” drywall)

(7.9 cm)

Wall Cut-Out Dimensions

9-1/8” x 13-1/8” (23.2 cm x 33.3 cm)

Wiring Requirements

We recommend 16 to 18 gauge stranded

wire for up to 80 feet, 14 gauge stranded

wire for up to two hundred feet.

Connectors accommodate 12 to 18 gauge

stranded wire.

We recommend 16 to 18 gauge stranded

wire for up to 80 feet, 14 gauge stranded

wire for up to two hundred feet.

Connectors accommodate 12 to 18 gauge

stranded wire.

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Notes

________________________________

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Notes

________________________________

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Notes

________________________________

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Notes

________________________________

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Niles Audio Corporation

12331 S.W. 130 Street

Miami, Florida 33186

Tel: (305) 238-4373

Fax: (305) 238-0185

www.nilesaudio.com

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