OWNER’S MANUAL 2007
250 SX-F
450 SX-F
ART. NR. 3.211.146 EN
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IMPORTANT »
INTENDED PURPOSE
KTM sports motorcycles are designed and constructed to resist the usual wear and tear of normal use in
competitions.
The motorcycles comply with the regulations and categories currently in effect with the leading international
motorcycle associations.
OWNER’S MANUAL
Please read this manual carefully and completely before going on your first ride. It contains a great deal
of information and advice which will help you use and handle your bike properly. Only by doing so will
you learn how to tune your motorbike to your specific needs and how to protect yourself against injury.
Besides, this manual contains important information on motorcycle maintenance.
In your own interest, please pay particular attention to notices that are marked as follows:
– Ignoring these instructions can be dangerous to life and limb!
2
–
Ignoring these instructions may damage parts of the motorcycle or impair the motorcycle’s traffic safety!
At the time this manual was typeset, it was up-to-date with the latest state of this production series. It
cannot be completely ruled out, however, that minor discrepancies may exist resulting from further design
upgrades of these motorcycles.This manual is an important part of your motorbike and should be passed
on to any subsequent owner in case you decide to sell it.
SERVICE
Observance of the service, maintenance and tuning instructions for the engine and chassis specified in
the Owner's Manual is a prerequisite for faultless operation and the avoidance of premature wear. An
improperly tuned chassis can lead to damage and breakage of the chassis components (see chapter on
checking the basic chassis setting).
The use of the motorcycle under extreme conditions, e.g. on extremely muddy and wet terrain, can lead
to higher than average wear on components such as the drive train or the brakes. In this case it may
become necessary to service or replace wear parts before the service limit specified in the maintenance
schedule has been reached.
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IMPORTANT »
The service work specified in the "Lubrication and Maintenance Schedule" must be performed by a KTM
workshop and recorded in the service manual otherwise claims under the warranty shall become void. The
fuels and lubricants specified in the Owner's Manual or automotive fluids with equivalent specifications
must be used in accordance with the maintenance schedule.
Take special care to follow the recommended run in, inspection, and maintenance intervals. Heeding
these guidelines will significantly increase the life of your motorcycle.
WARRANTY
The service work specified in the "Lubrication and Maintenance Schedule" must be performed by a KTM
workshop and recorded in the service manual otherwise claims under the warranty shall become void.
No claims can be filed under the warranty for damage or consequential damage caused by manipulations
or conversions to the motorcycle.
AUTOMOTIVE FLUIDS
The fuels and lubricants specified in the Owner's Manual or automotive fluids with equivalent specifications
must be used in accordance with the maintenance schedule.
SPARE PARTS, ACCESSORIES
For your own safety, use KTM-approved parts and accessories only. KTM is not liable for damage that
arises in connection with the use of other products.
3
TRANSPORT
When transporting your motorcycle, secure it with elastic straps or other mechanical devices in an upright
position. Be sure that the fuel tap is closed. If the motorcycle topples over, fuel can flow out of the carburetor
or fuel tank
ENVIRONMENT
Offroad-Motorcycle driving is a wonderful sport and we hope that you will be able to enjoy it to the full.
It may, however, involve potential problems for the environment or lead to conflicts with others. These
problems or conflicts can be avoided if the motorcycle is used responsibly. To safeguard the future of
motorcycle sports, make sure that you use the motorcycle in accordance with the law, show that you are
environmentally conscious and respect the rights of others.
Enjoy driving your motorcycle !
KTM-SPORTMOTORCYCLE AG
5230 MATTIGHOFEN, AUSTRIA
Attachments: Spare parts manual chassis & engine
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TABLE OF CONTENTS »
Page
Page
Checking the brake fluid level - front brake . . . . . . . .25
Refilling the front brake fluid reservoir . . . . . . . . . . .25
Checking the front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Replacing the front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Checking the rear brake fluid level . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Refilling the rear brake fluid reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Changing the basic position of the foot brake pedal . .27
Checking the rear brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Replacing the rear brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Dismounting and mounting the front wheel . . . . . . . .28
Dismounting and mounting the rear wheel . . . . . . . . .29
Checking spoke tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Tires, air pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Battery (450 SX-F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Charging the battery (450 SX-F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Fuse (450 SX-F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Checking the coolant level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Bleeding the cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Replacing the glassfiber yarn packing of the silencer .33
Cleaning the air filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Adjusting the throttle cables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Changing the original position of the clutch lever . . . .35
Checking the oil level of the hydraulic clutch . . . . . .35
Bleeding of the hydraulic clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Carburetor - Adjust idling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Basic information on carburetor wear . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Checking the float level (float height) . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Draining the float chamber of the carburetor . . . . . . .37
Checking the engine oil level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Changing the engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Changing the oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
IMPORTANT INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
SERIAL NUMBER LOCATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Chassis number . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Engine number, engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Clutch lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Hot start lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Hand brake lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Short circuit button . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Starter button (450 SX-F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Filler cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Fuel tap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Choke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Shift lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Kickstarter (250 SX-F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Foot brake pedal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Plug in stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Compression damping of fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Rebound damping of fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Compression damping of shock absorber . . . . . . . . . . .8
Rebound damping of shock absorber . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
4
GENERAL TIPS AND WARNINGS FOR STARTING THE
MOTORCYCLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Instructions for initial operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Running in the Racing models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Check the following before each start . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Starting when the engine is cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Starting when the engine is warm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
What to do when the engine is "flooded" . . . . . . . . . .12
Starting off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Shifting/Riding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Braking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Stopping and parking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
CLEANING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
STORAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
TECHNICAL DATA - ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
TECHNICAL DATA - CHASSIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
HEAD WORK INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
WIRING DIAGRAM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .appendix
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE . . . .16
Changing the spring preloading of the shock absorber .16
Pivot bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Basic suspension setup for the weight of the driver . . .17
Checking the shock absorber and spring . . . . . . . . . .17
Determining the static sag of the shock absorber . . . .17
Determining the riding sag of the shock absorber . . . .17
Checking the basic setup of the telescopic fork . . . . .18
Changing the spring preload on the telescopic fork . . .18
Replacing fork springs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Breather plug front fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Cleaning the dust sleeves of the telescopic fork . . . . .18
Changing the fork offset (caster) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Checking and adjusting the steering head bearing . . .20
Checking the throttle cable installation . . . . . . . . . . .20
How to change the handlebar position . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Check chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Correct chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Adapting the chain guide to the number of rear
sprocket teeth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Chain maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Chain wear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
General information about KTM disc brakes . . . . . . . .24
Adjusting the free travel at the hand brake lever . . . . .25
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SERIAL NUMBER LOCATIONS »
Chassis number
The chassis number is stamped on the right side of the steering head tube.
Enter this number in the field on page no 1.
Engine number, engine type
The engine number and the engine type are stamped into the left side of the
engine below the engine sprocket. Enter this number on page 1.
5
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
Clutch lever
The clutch lever [1] is located on the left side of the handlebar. The adjusting
screw [A] is used to change the original position of the clutch lever (see
maintenance work on chassis and engine).
2
The clutch is hydraulically actuated and adjusts itself automatically.
1
A
Hot start lever
If you pull the red hot start lever [2] during the starting procedure backward,
a bore in the carburetor will be opened through which the engine may take in
additional air. The result is a “lean“ fuel-air mixture of the type needed for
hot starts.
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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
Hand brake lever
The hand brake lever [1] is mounted on the handlebars on the right and
actuates the front wheel brake. The adjusting screw [A] can be used to change
the basic position of the hand brake lever (see "Maintenance").
1
A
Short circuit button
The short circuit button [2] turns off the engine. When pressing this button,
the ignition circuit is short-circuited.
2
6
Starter button (450 SX-F)
Pushing the black starter button [3] will actuate the E-starter.
3
Filler cap
To open the filler cap: Turn the filler cap 45° counter-clockwise.
To close the filler cap: Put the filler cap on and turn it 45 ° clockwise.
Fuel tap
OFF In this position the fuel tap is closed. No fuel can flow to the
carburetor.
ON During operation the twist grip must be turned to ON. This means that
the fuel can flow to the carburetor.
OFF
ON
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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
Choke
If you pull the choke button [1] out as far as possible, a bore in the carburetor
will be opened through which the engine may take in additional fuel. The result
is a “fat“ fuel-air mixture of the type needed for cold starts.
1
To deactivate the choke, push the choke button back into its basic position.
Shift lever
The shift lever is mounted on the left side of the engine. The position of the
gears is shown in the illustration. Neutral is located between first and second
gear.
2,3,4 (5,6)
N
7
1
Kickstarter (250 SX-F)
The kickstarter is mounted on the right side of the engine. Its upper part can
be swivelled.
Foot brake pedal
The foot brake pedal is located in front of the right footrest. Its basic position
can be adjusted to your seat position (see maintenance work).
Plug in stand
The plug-in stand can be attached to the wheel spindle on the left side of the
motorcycle.
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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
Compression damping of fork
Hydraulic compression damping determines the reaction when the fork is
compressed. The degree of compression can be adjusted with adjusting
screws at the top of the fork legs.
1
Turn the adjusting screws [1] clockwise to increase damping, turn it
counterclockwise to reduce damping during compression.
STANDARD ADJUSTMENT
– turn adjusting screw clockwise as far as it will go
– turn it back by as many clicks as are specified for the relevant type of fork
WP 14.18.7C.03: 15 clicks
WP 14.18.7C.05: 15 clicks
Rebound damping of fork
Hydraulic rebound damping determines the reaction when the fork is
rebound. Remove the protecting cap [2].
By turning the adjusting screw [3] (REB), the degree of damping of the
rebound can be adjusted. Turn the knob clockwise to increase damping, turn
it counterclockwise to reduce damping during rebounding.
STANDARD ADJUSTMENT
– turn adjusting screw clockwise as far as it will go
– turn it back by as many clicks as are specified for the relevant type of fork
3
WP 14.18.7C.03: 20 clicks
WP 14.18.7C.05: 21 clicks
8
2
Damping action during compression of shock absorber
The shock absorber can synchronize the compression damping in the low and
high-speed range separately (Dual Compression Control).
Low and high speed refers to the movement of the shock absorber during
compression and not to the speed of the motorcycle.
The low and high-speed technology overlaps.
The low-speed setting is primarily for slow to normal shock absorber compression
rates.
4
The high-speed setting is effective at fast compression rates.
Turning in a clockwise direction will increase the damping, turning counter-
clockwise will decrease the damping.
STANDARD HIGH-SPEED SETTING:
– turn the adjusting screw [4] to the limit in a clockwise direction using a
box wrench.
– unscrew the respective number of turns for the specific type of shock absorber
in a counterclockwise direction.
6
WP 12.18.7C.03: 1 turn
WP 12.18.7C.05: 1 turn
STANDARD LOW-SPEED SETTING:
– turn the adjusting screw [5] to the limit in a clockwise direction using a
screwdriver .
– unscrew the respective number of clicks for the specific type of shock absorber
in a counterclockwise direction.
5
WP 12.18.7C.03: 15 clicks
WP 12.18.7C.05: 15 clicks
The damping unit of the shock absorber is filled with high-compression
nitrogen. Never try to take the shock absorber apart or to do any maintenance
work yourself. Severe injuries could be the result.
Never unscrew the black screw connection [6] (24mm).
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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
Rebound damping of shock absorber
By using the adjusting screw [1], the degree of damping of the rebound can
be adjusted. Turn the knob clockwise to increase damping, turn it counter-
clockwise to reduce damping during rebounding.
1
STANDARD ADJUSTMENT:
– turn the adjusting screw clockwise to the stop.
– then turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise, counting the number of
clicks that corresponds to the respective type of shock absorber.
2
WP 12.18.7C.03: 25 clicks
WP 12.18.7C.05: 25 clicks
The damping unit of the shock absorber is filled with high-compression
nitrogen. Never try to take the shock absorber apart or to do any maintenance
work yourself. Severe injuries could be the result.
Never unscrew the screw connection [2] (15mm).
9
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GENERAL TIPS AND WARNINGS FOR STARTING THE MOTORCYCLE »
Instructions for initial operation
– Make sure the work for the “pre-delivery inspection“ was
– Dress properly for the ride. Smart KTM drivers always wear
a helmet, boots, gloves and the right Enduro/Motocross
clothing. Protective clothing should be conspicuous to make
sure other road users see you in time.
performed by your authorized KTM workshop. The DELIVERY
CERTIFICATE and SERVICE MANUAL will be handed over
when you pick up your vehicle.
– Read these operating instructions carefully before your first
ride.
– Do not drive after drinking alcohol.
– Always switch on the light while driving to make sure other
road users see you in time.
– Only use accessories approved by KTM.
– Familiarize yourself with the operating elements.
– Set the clutch lever, the handbrake lever, and the footbrake
pedal to the positions that are most convenient for you.
– Get used to handling the motorcycle on an empty parking
lot or open space, before starting on a longer drive. Also try
to drive as slowly as possible and in a standing position, to
improve your feeling for the vehicle.
– Do not drive along off-road tracks which go beyond your ability
and experience.
– Hold the handlebars with both hands and leave your feet on
the foot rests while driving.
– Remove your foot from the foot brake lever when you are not
braking. If the foot brake lever is not released the brake
pads rub continuously and the braking system is
overheated.
– Do not make any alterations to the motorcycle and always
use ORIGINAL KTM SPARE PARTS. Spare parts from other
manufacturers can impair the safety of the motorcycle.
– Motorcycles are sensitive to alterations in the distribution of
weight. If you are taking luggage with you, this should be
secured as close as possible to the middle of the vehicle;
distribute the weight evenly between the front and rear wheel.
Never exceed the maximum permissible laden weight and
the axle weights. The maximum permissible laden weight is
comprised of the following components:
– Always use front and rear tires with the same tread pattern.
– The 250/450 SX-F models are designed and built for 1
person only. No passengers are permitted.
– Adjust your speed to the conditions and your driving skill.
– Drive cautiously on unfamiliar roads or in unfamiliar terrain.
– Always have a friend accompany you on his bike when driving
off road so you can help each other if you run into trouble.
– Replace the helmet visor or the lenses in your glasses in time.
A scratched visor or scratched lenses can make you practically
blind in back light.
– Never leave your motorcycle running unattended.
– 250/450 SX-F models are not permitted on public roads and
highways.
– When riding your motorcycle, please remember that excessive
noise may disturb others.
10
– Motorcycle ready for operation and tank full
– Driver with protective clothing and helmet.
– Pay attention to the running-in procedure.
Running in
Even very precisely machined sections of engine components have
rougher surfaces than components which have been sliding across
one another for quite some time. Therefore, every engine needs to
be broken in.
For this reason, do not load the engine more than 50% of its capacity
during the first 3 operating hours. Besides, the engine speed must
not exceed 7000 rpm. Avoid going full-throttle!
In the following 12 operating hours, you may load the engine up
to 75% of its capacity.
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DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS »
Check the following before each start
When you start off, the motorcycle must be in perfect technical condition.
For safety reasons, you should make a habit of performing an overall check
of your motorcycle before each start.
The following checks should be performed:
1
2
3
CHECK THE OIL LEVEL
Insufficient oil results in premature wear and consequently to engine
damage.
B
A
FUEL
Check that there is sufficient fuel in the tank; when closing the filler cap,
check that the tank venting hose is free of kinks.
CHAIN
A loose chain can fall from the chain wheels; an extremely worn chain can
tear, and insufficient lubrication can result in unnecessary wear to the chain
and chain wheels. Excessive tensioning of the chain will put additional
load on the components of the secondary drivetrain (chain, bearings of
transmission and rear wheel). Aside from resulting in premature wear, if
worst comes to worst the chain may rupture or the countershaft of the
transmission may break.
4
5
TIRES
Check for damaged tires. Tires showing cuts or dents must be replaced.
The tread depth must comply with the legal regulations. Also check the
air pressure. Insufficient tread and incorrect air pressure deteriorate the
driving performance.
11
BRAKES
Check correct functioning of the braking system. Check for sufficient
brake fluid in the reservoir. The reservoirs have been designed in such a
way that brake fluid does not need to be refilled even when the brake pads
are worn. If the level of brake fluid falls below the minimum value, this
indicates a leak in the braking system or completely worn out brake pads.
Arrange for the braking system to be checked by a KTM specialist, as complete
failure of the braking system can be avoided.
Also check the state of the brake hose and the thickness of the brake
linings.
Check free travel at the hand brake lever and foot brake lever.
6
7
CABLES
Check correct setting and easy running of all control cables.
COOLING FLUID
Check the level of the cooling fluid when the engine is cold.
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DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS »
Starting when the engine is cold
1
2
3
4
5
Open the fuel tap [1].
Swing up the side stand or center stand.
Put the gear in neutral.
Operate the choke [2].
Leave throttle closed and kick the kickstarter briskly ALL THE WAY or actuate
the E-starter.
– If you want to start the engine, make sure that you always put on sturdy
motorcycle boots in order to avoid injuries. You might slip off the kickstarter,
or the engine may kick back.
1
– Always kick the kickstarter briskly all the way without opening the throttle.
If you do not Kick hard enought, with an open throttle grip, the kick-back
hazard will be higher.
– Do not start the engine and allow it to idle in a closed area. Exhaust fumes
are poisonous and can cause loss of consciousness and death. Always provide
adequate ventilation while the engine is running.
– Always verify that the transmission has been set to idle (neutral) before
actuating the starter button. If you start the motorcycle with a gear engaged,
the motorcycle will move forward.
2
– Maximal period for continuous starting: 5 seconds. Wait at least 5 seconds
before trying again.
– Don’t ride your motorcycle with full load and don’t rev up the engine when
cold because the piston is warming up faster than the water cooled cylinder
and can cause engine damage.
12
NOTE: If you have trouble starting the motorcycle, this could be due to old
fuel in the float chamber. The easily inflammable components of the
new fuels evaporate during longer periods of standstill.When the
motorcycle has been out of operation for more than a week, it is therefore
recommended to drain the old fuel from the float chamber. The
engine will immediately start off when the float chamber is filled with
new fuel.
Starting when the engine is warm
1
2
3
4
5
Open the fuel tap [1].
Swing up the side stand.
Put the gear in neutral.
Pull the hot start lever
Leave throttle closed and kick the kickstarter briskly ALL THE WAY or
actuate the E-starter.
What to do when the engine is “flooded“
The fork legs must be partly disassembled to change the spring preload (see
WP manual). Pretension spacers in various thicknesses are available (see spare
parts catalog).
NOTE:
The carburetor has an accelerator pump. Every time you open the throttle,
fuel will be injected into the intake passage. When starting, be sure that you
open the throttle completely only once.
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DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS »
Starting off
Pull the clutch lever. Put the engine into first gear, slowly release
the clutch lever and open the throttle at the same time.
– In case of rain, after washing the motorcycle, after rides through
water and in case of rides on wet off-road tracks, humid or dirty
brake discs can delay the braking effect. The brakes must be
pulled until they are dry or clean.
– Dirty brake discs cause increased tear of brake pads and brake
discs.
– When you brake, the brake discs, brake pads, brake caliper and
brake fluid heat up. The hotter these parts get, the weaker the
breaking effect. In extreme cases, the entire braking system
can fail.
– If the resistance in the hand brake lever or foot brake pedal
feels “spongy” (too much play), this is an indication that
something is wrong with the brake system. Don’t ride your
motorcycle anymore without first having the brake system looked
over by a KTM dealer.
Shifting/Riding
You are now in first gear, refered to as the drive or uphill gear.
Depending on the conditions (hill size etc.), you can shift to a higher
gear. Close throttle, at the same time pull clutch lever in and shift
to the next higher gear. Let clutch lever go again and accelerate.
If you turned on the choke, make sure you turn it off again as soon
as engine is warm.
When you reach full speed through opening the throttle all the way,
turn throttle back to 3/4; the speed hardly decreases although the
engine will use less gas. Only give as much gas as the engine can
handle. Through quick and high revving of the throttle, the fuel
usage increases.
By shifting down, use the brakes if necessary and close the throttle
at the same time. Pull the clutch lever and shift down to the next
gear. Let clutch lever go slowly and open the throttle or shift down
again.
Stopping and parking
Apply the brakes fully and put the engine into neutral. To turn off
the engine, push the short-circuit button with the engine at idling
speed until the engine stops. Turn the fuel tap to the OFF position,
park on an area where the ground is firm.
NOTE:
Dedicated to nothing but offroad racing, 250/450 SX-F-models make
no compromises in their design. As such, they do not include any
radiator fan, and the size of the radiator is dimensioned for optimum
ergonomics.
Motorcycle engines produce a great amount of heat while running.
The engine, exhaust pipe, muffler, brake rotors, and shock absorbers
can become very hot. Do not touch any of these parts after operating
the motorcycle, and take care to park it where pedestrians are not
likely to touch it and get burned.
In normal racing, the cooling system is sufficient.
If you use your motorbike in other conditions, please note that:
turn off the engine if you intend to run your motorcycle in idle or
at a standstill for longer periods of time (more than 2 minutes).
Avoid letting the clutch slip frequently and for extended periods.
This would cause the engine oil to heat up, thereby heating up the
cooling system. You should drive at low speeds (4-stroke style -
letting the engine pull you) and not at high speeds not by letting
the clutch slip (2-stroke style).
13
– Close the fuel tap when leaving your vehicle.Otherwise the
carburettor can flood and fuel will enter the engine.
– Never park your motorcycle in places where there are fire
hazards due to dry grass or other easily flammable materials.
Fuel
– After falling with the motorcycle, check all functions thoroughly
before starting up operations again.
The racing engine needs unleaded fuel with at least RON 95 (USA
– A twisted handlebar must always be replaced. Do not adjust = Premium RON 91).
the handlebar, it will lose stability.
Use leaded or unleaded premium grade gasoline (95 octanes). Never
– High rpm rates when the engine is cold have an adverse effect use gasoline having less than 95 octanes because it may damage
on the life of your engine. We recommend you run the engine the engine.
in a moderate rpm range for a few miles giving it a chance to
warm up. After that no further precautions in this respect need
to be taken. The engine has reached its operating temperature Gasoline is highly flammable and poisonous. Extreme caution
as soon as the radiators become warm.
should be used when handling gasoline. Do not refuel the motorcycle
– Never have the throttle wide open when changing down to a near open flames or burning cigarettes. Always switch off the
lower gear. The engine will over-rev, damaging the valves. In engine before refuelling. Be careful not to spill gasoline on the engine
addition, the rear wheel locks so that the motorcycle can easily or exhaust pipe while the engine is hot. Wipe up spills promptly.
get out of control.
If gasoline is swallowed or splashed in the eyes, seek a doctor’s
– If any abnormal vibrations occur while driving, check that the advice immediately.
engine fastening bolts are tight.
– In the event that, while riding on your motorcycle, you notice Fuel expands when its temperature rises. Therefore do not fill the
any unusual operation-related noise, stop immediately, turn the tank to the top (see fig.).
engine off, and contact an authorized KTM dealer.
Braking
Close throttle and apply the hand and foot brakes at the same time.
When driving on sandy, wet or slippery ground use mainly the rear
wheel brake. Always brake with feeling, blocking wheels can cause
you to skid or fall. Always finish braking before you enter a curve.
35 mm
Also change down to lower gears depending on your speed.
When driving down hill, use the braking effect of the engine.
Change down one or two gears but do not overspeed the engine.
In this way, you will not need to brake so much and the brakes will
not overheat.
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PERIODIC MAINTENANCE »
1st service after every
3 hours
or
20 l fuel
10 hours
250/450 SX-F 2007
or
A CLEAN MOTORCYCLE CAN BE CHECKED MORE QUICKLY WHICH SAVES MONEY!
70 l fuel
z
z
Change engine oil, oil filter
z
z
Clean oil screen and drain plug magnet
Replace spark plug (after 30 hours)
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
Check and adjust valve clearance
Check engine mounting bolts for tightness
Clean the spark-plug connector and check for a tight fit
Check the screws on the kick starter and shift lever for a tight fit
Check carburetor connection boot for cracks and leaks
Check idle speed setting
z
z
z
Check vent hoses for damage or bends
Check cooling system for leaks, check quantity of antifreeze
Check exhaust system for leaks and fitment
Check cables for damage, smooth operation and bends,
adjust and lubricate
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
Check fluid level of the clutch master cylinder
Clean air filter and filter box
Check electric wires for damage and bends
Check brake fluid level, lining thickness, brake discs
Check brake lines for damage and leaks
Check/function smooth operation and adjust free travel of handbrake/foot brake lever
Check the screws and guide bolts on the brake system for a tight fit
Check shock absorber and fork for leaks and function
Clean fork dust bellows
14
z
z
z
z
z
Bleed fork legs
Check swing arm bearings
z
z
Check/adjust steering head bearings
Check tightness of chassis screws (triple clamps, fork leg axle passage,
swingarm, shock aborber)
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
Check/adjust steering head bearings
Check tires and air pressure
Check chain, chain joint, rear sprockets and chain guides for wear, fit and tension
Lubricate chain, clean and grease the adjusting screws on the chain tensioner
Check clearance of wheel bearings
250/450 SX-F 2007
IMPORTANT RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE WORK THAT CAN BE CARRIED OUT BY EXTRA ORDER
at least
once a year
every
2 years
z
Complete maintenance of fork
z
Complete maintenance of shock absorber
Clean and grease steering head bearings and gasket elements
Clean and adjust carburetor
z
z
z
z
z
Treat electric contacts and switches with contact spray
Change hydraulic clutch fluid
Change brake fluid
IF MOTORCYCLE IS USED FOR COMPETITION 10 HOURS SERVICE SHOULD BE CARRIED OUT AFTER EVERY RACE.
Service intervalls should never be exceeded by more than 2 hours or 15 liters of fuel.
Maintenance work done by KTM authorised workshops is not a substitute for care and checks done by the rider.
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PERIODIC MAINTENANCE »
250/450 SX-F 2007
IMPORTANT CHECKS AND MAINTENANCE TO BE CARRIED OUT BY THE RIDER
Before
each
start
After
For cross- at least
every
country
use
once
cleaning
a year
z
Check oil level
z
z
Check brake fluid level
Check brake pads for wear
z
z
Lubricate and adjust cables and nipples
Bleed fork legs regularly
z
z
z
z
Remove and clean fork dust bellows regularly
Clean and lubricate chain, check tension and adjust if necessary
Clean air filter and filter box
z
z
z
Check tires for pressure and wear
Check cooling fluid level
Check fuel lines for leaks
z
z
Drain and clean float chamber
z
z
Check all control elements for smooth operation
Check brake performance
z
z
Treat blank metal parts (with the exception of brake and exhaust system)
with wax-based anti corrosion agent
Check tightness of screws, nuts and hose clamps regularly
z
15
250/450 SX-F 2007
RECOMMENDED INSPECTIONS OR MAINTENANCE WORK BY THE AUTHORIZED KTM WORKSHOP FOR COMPETITIVE RACING
(ADDITIONAL ORDER FOR THE KTM WORKSHOP)
every
10
hours
70
liter
every
20
hours
140
liter
every
40
hours
270
liter
every
60
hours
400
liter
every
80
hours
540
liter
A 100 liter fuel consumption is equivalent to approx. 15 operating hours
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
Check the clutch disks for wear
Check the length of the clutch springs
Check the clutch drive for indentations
Check the outer clutch hub for indentations
Check the cylinder and piston for wear (250 SX-F)
Check the cylinder for wear and replace the piston (450 SX-F)
Check the groove on the piston pin retainer for wear (visual check)
Check the camshaft for wear (visual check)
Check the spring cap for wear
Check the eccentricity of the valve disk
Check the valve guides for wear
Replace the valves (250 SX-F)
z
z
z
z
z
z
Replace the valves (450 SX-F)
Replace the valve springs
Check the function of the chain tensioner
Check the eccentricity of the crankshaft journal
Replace the conrod bearings
Check piston pin bearing
Replace the crankshaft main bearings (250 SX-F)
Replace the crankshaft main bearings (450 SX-F)
Check the entire transmission including the roller and bearings for wear
Check the length of the bypass valve spring
Replace the glass-fiber yarn filling in the silencer
Replace the sealing cup for the foot brake cylinder
Replace the throttle slide, jet needle and main jet holder (every 200 hours)
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
NOTE:
If the inspection establishes that permissible tolerances are exceeded, the respective components must be replaced.
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Maintenance and adjusting work marked with an asterisk (*) requires expert skills and technical know-how. For your own safety, always
have such work performed by a specialized KTM dealer where your motorcycle will be optimally serviced by appropriately qualified,
skilled staff.
– If using a power washer, do not point the water jet at the electric components, plugs, cables, bearings, carburetor, etc. The high
pressure will cause water to penetrate into the components and can cause them to malfunction or lead to premature wear.
– When transporting your KTM, ensure that it is held upright with restraining straps or other mechanical fastening devices and that
the fuel tap is in the OFF position - if the motorcycle should fall over, no fuel can leak from the carburetor or fuel tank
– Only use special screws with an appropriate thread length supplied by KTM to fix the spoilers on the tank. Using other screws or
longer screws can cause leaks in the tank through which fuel can flow out.
– Do not use toothed washers or spring rings with the engine fastening screws, as these work into the frame parts and keep working
loose. Instead, use self-locking nuts.
– Let your motorcycle cool down before beginning any maintenance work in order to avoid getting burned.
– Dispose oils, fatty matters, filters, fuels, washing detergents etc. properly.
– Under no circumstances may used oil be disposed of in the sewage system or in the open countryside. 1 liter of used oil contaminates
1,000,000 liters of water.
16
Changing the spring preloading of the shock absorber
The spring preload can be changed by turning the adjusting ring [1]. For this
purpose, you should dismount the shock absorber and clean it thoroughly.
NOTE:
– Before changing the spring preload note down the basic setting, e.g. how
many threads are visible above the adjusting ring.
2
– One rotation of the adjusting ring [1] changes the spring pretension by
approximately 1.0 mm.
Loosen the clamping screw [2] and use the hook wrench contained in the
vehicle tool set to turn the adjusting ring as desired. Turning it counterclockwise
will reduce the preload, turning it clockwise will increase the preload.
After readjusting the clamping screw [2], tighten it to 8 Nm.
1
ADJUSTMENT VALUES – SPRING PRELOAD A
WP 12.18.7C.03: 5 mm (0,2 in)
WP 12.18.7C.05: 5 mm (0,2 in)
A
Pivot bearing
The pivot bearing [3] for PDS suspension struts at the swinging fork is Teflon-
coated and must not be lubricated with either grease or other lubricants. Grease
and other lubricants cause the Teflon coat to dissolve, whereby the bearing’s
lifecycle will be reduced dramatically.
When cleaning your bike with a high-pressure cleaner, do not aim the high-
pressure spray directly at the pivot bearing.
3
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Basic suspension setup for the weight of the driver
To achieve maximum handling performance and to prevent the fork, shock
absorber, swing arm and frame from being damaged, the basic setup of the
suspension components must be suitable for your weight. At delivery, KTM's
offroad motorcycles are set to accommodate a driver weighing 75 - 85 kg (wearing
full protective clothing). If your weight exceeds or falls short of this range,
you will need to adjust the basic setup for the suspension components
accordingly. Minor deviations in weight can be compensated by adjusting the
spring preload. Different springs must be installed for larger deviations.
A
Checking the shock absorber and spring
You can establish whether or not the shock absorber spring is suitable for your
weight by checking the riding sag. The static slag must be correctly adjusted
before the riding sag can be determined.
Determining the static sag of the shock absorber
The static sag should be as close as possible to 33 mm (250 SX-F) or 35 mm
(450 SX-F). Deviations of more than 2 mm can strongly influence the
motorcycle's performance.
Procedure:
– Jack up the motorcycle until the rear wheel no longer touches the ground.
– Measure the vertical distance between the rear wheel axle and a fixed point
(e.g. a mark on the side cover) and write it down as dimension A.
– Place the motorcycle on the ground again.
B
17
– Ask a helper to hold the motorcycle in vertical position.
– Measure the distance between the rear axle and the fixed point again to
establish dimension B.
– The static sag is the difference between dimensions A and B.
EXAMPLE:
Motorcycle jacked up (dimension A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .600 mm
Motorcycle on ground, unloaded (dimension B) . . . . . . . . . . . . .– 567 mm
Static sag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 mm
If the static sag is lower, the spring preload of the shock absorber must be
reduced, if the static sag is higher, the spring preload must be increased. See
chapter "Changing the spring preload of the shock absorber."
Determining the riding sag of the shock absorber
C
– Have a helper hold the motorcycle while you sit on the bike in a normal
seating position (feet on the footrests) wearing full protective clothing and
bounce up and down a few times to allow the rear wheel suspension to
become level.
– Stay on the bike and have another person measure the distance between
the same two points and write it down as dimension C.
– The riding sag is the difference between dimensions A and C.
EXAMPLE:
Motorcycle jacked up (dimension A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .600 mm
Motorcycle on ground, loaded (dimension C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .– 493 mm
Riding sag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107 mm
The riding sag should lie between 102 and 112 mm.
If the riding sag is less than 102 mm, the spring is too hard (the spring rate
is too high). If the riding sag is more than 112 mm, the spring is too soft (the
spring rate is too low).
WP12.18.7C.03
WP12.18.7C.05
250 SX-F
450 SX-F
66/250
69/250
The spring rate is written on the outside of the spring (e.g. 63/250). The type
number of the shock absorber is embossed on the bottom of the tank.
The illustrations show which spring should be installed. The standard spring
is shown in bold print.
63/250
66/250
After installing a different spring, readjust the static sag to 33/35 mm (± 2 mm).
60/250
63/250
According to our experience, the damping rate of the compression stage can
remain unchanged. The damping rate of the rebound stage can be reduced
by a few clicks for a softer spring or increased by a few clicks for a harder
spring.
65
70
75
80
85
90
95
RIDERS WEIGHT INCLUSIVE GEARS IN KILOGRAM
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Checking the basic setup of the telescopic fork
The precise riding sag of the telescopic fork cannot be determined for
various reasons. Similar to the shock absorber, smaller deviations in your weight
can be compensated by adjusting the spring preload. However, if your
telescopic fork bumps frequently (hard end stop during compression), you should
install harder fork springs to avoid damaging the telescopic fork and frame.
Changing the spring preload on the telescopic fork
The fork legs must be partly disassembled to change the spring preload (see
WP manual). Pretension spacers in various thicknesses are available (see spare
parts catalog).
NOTE:
WP precisely adjusts the spring pressure by inserting pretension spacers.
Fluctuations in production are compensated with pretension spacers in various
heights. This can cause the fork springs in the fork legs to have different degrees
of pretension. Fork springs and pretension spacers should always stay together.
WP14.18.7C.03
WP14.18.7C.05
250 SX-F
450 SX-F
Replacing fork springs
If you weigh less than 75 kg or more than 85 kg, you should install the respective
fork springs. The correct spring rate is shown in the illustrations. The standard
spring is shown in bold print. The type number of the telescopic fork is
embossed on the caps on the top of the telescopic fork.
4,6 N/mm
4,8 N/mm
4,4 N/mm
4,6 N/mm
If you are uncertain which spring to use, contact your KTM workshop.
4,2 N/mm
4,4 N/mm
According to our experience, the damping rate of the compression stage can
remain unchanged. The damping rate of the rebound stage can be reduced
by a few clicks for a softer spring or increased by a few clicks for a harder
spring.
65
70
75
80
85
90
95
RIDERS WEIGHT INCLUSIVE GEARS IN KILOGRAM
18
Breather plug front fork
After every 5 hours of use for competitive racing, slacken the breather
plugs [1] a few turns in order to relieve excess pressure from the inside of the
fork. To do this, place the motorcycle on a stand with the front wheel lifted
off the ground.
Excessive pressure in the interior of the fork can cause leaks in the fork. If
your fork is leaking, it is recommended to open the breather plugs before having
the seals replaced.
1
Cleaning the dust sleeves of the telescopic fork
The dust-protection bellows [2] are to remove dust and coarse dirt particles
from the fork tube. However, after some time, dirt may also get in behind the
dust-protection bellows. If this dirt is not removed, the oil sealing rings located
behind it may start to leak.
Use a screwdriver to lift the dust-protection bellows out of the outer tubes
and slide them downward.
2
Clean the dust-protection bellows, outer tubes, and fork tubes thoroughly, and
oil them thoroughly with Universal oil spray (Motorex Joker 440) or engine
oil. Then, push the dust-protection bellows into the outer tubes by hand.
No oil may reach the front tire or the brake disks since this would considerably
reduce the tire's road grip and the braking effect of the front brake.
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Changing the fork offset (caster) *
The fork offset [A] in the 250/450 SX-F models (center fork legs - center steering
head angle) can be set to either 18 or 20 mm. This allows you to optimize
the handling to match the race course.
Remove the blind screw [1] to see which offset is set. If the mark [B] is in
front, the offset is 18 mm. This setting will deliver more directional stability
on fast race courses.
A
If the mark [B] is in the rear as illustrated, the offset is 20 mm. This setting
will deliver better handling in curves.
B
The offset is set to 20 mm in the condition at delivery.
1
5
2
3
4
19
To adjust the offset, dismount the front wheel and remove the front wheel
fender.
Remove the screw on the starting number plate. Remove the clamp screws
on the hand brake cylinder and fasten the hand brake cylinder to the left fork
leg with a cable tie to keep the brake line from kinking (see illustration).
Loosen the clamp screws and take the fork legs out of the triple clamps.
Loosen the collar screw [2] on the lower triple clamp 2 turns.
Remove the blind screw [1] from the upper triple clamp, loosen the clamp
screw and upper triple clamp on the seat. Remove the O-ring [3] and the
protection ring [4].
Tap gently on the lower triple clamp with a rubber hammer to loosen the steering
stem [5] out of the bearing seat. Take the lower triple clamp with the steering
stem out of the steering head.
3
4
2
Remove the collar screw from the lower triple clamp and pull out the steering
stem. Thoroughly clean all parts. Turn the steering stem 180° and insert it in
the triple clamp, tighten the collar screw all the way to the stop.
Grease the steering head bearing and sealing elements.
5
Be sure to lock the thread on the collar screw [2] with Loctite 243. Do not
confuse the collar screw [2] with the blind screw [1]. The collar screw is self-
locking.
2
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Mount the lower triple clamp, upper steering head bearing, protection ring,
O-ring, upper triple clamp and the blind screw.
Tighten the collar screw on the lower triple clamp to 60 Nm.
Mount the fork legs and tighten the clamp screws on the lower triple clamp
to 12 Nm in 3 stages.
Adjust the steering head bearing without clearance (see: Checking and
adjusting the steering head bearing) and tighten the clamp screws on the upper
triple clamp to 17 Nm in 3 stages.
A
Secure the middle clamp screw [A] with Loctite 243.
Mount the front wheel fender and tighten the screws to 10 Nm.
Mount the hand brake cylinder and tighten the screws to 10 Nm.
Mount the starting number plate.
Mount the front wheel (see: Dismounting and mounting the front wheel).
20
Checking and adjusting the steering head bearing *
Check steering head bearing for play periodically. To check, put the motorcycle
on a stand so that the front wheel is off the ground. Now try to move the fork
forward and backward. To adjust, loosen the 5 clamp screws [1] and [3] on
the upper triple clamp and tighten the blind screw [2] to 10 Nm. With a plastic
hammer, lightly tap on the triple clamp to release tension. Retighten the five
pinch bolts to 17 Nm.
2
– If the steering head bearing is not adjusted to be free of play, the motor-
cycle will exhibit unsteady driving characteristics and can get out of
control.
1
1
3
– Apply Loctite 243 to the clamp screw [3] to lock in place.
If you drive with play in the steering head bearing for longer periods, the bearings
and subsequently the bearing seats in the frame will be destroyed.
The steering head bearings should be regreased at least once a year
(e.g. Motorex Long Term 2000).
Checking the throttle cable installation
Both throttle cables must run parallel along the back of the handlebar down
to the frame. They must run directly on the right side of the frame above the
tank roller to the carburetor.
When mounting the tank, make sure the throttle cables stay on the side of
the frame and are not pressed down by the tank.
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
How to change the handlebar position
The handlebar position can be readjusted by 22 mm. Thus, you can put the
handlebar in the position that is the most convenient for you. The upper triple
clamp [1] includes 2 bores arranged at a distance of 15 mm (0.6 in) from
one another. The bores at the handlebar support [2] are offset from the center
by 3.5 mm (0.13 in). Accordingly, you can mount the handlebar in
4 different positions.
For this purpose, remove screws [3] of the handlebar clamps and screws [4]
of the handlebar support. Position the handlebar support, and tighten screws
[4] to 40 Nm (30 ft.lbs). Mount the handlebar and handlebar clamps, and
tighten screws [3] to 20 Nm (15 ft.lbs). The gap between the handlebar support
and the handlebar clamps should be the same size in the front and in the
rear.
3
4
2
The screws [4] must be secured with loctite 243.
3,5 mm
1
21
Check chain tension
Jack the motorcycle up on its frame so that the rear wheel no longer touches
the ground.
A
Press the chain upward at the end of the chain sliding component. The
distance between the chain and the swing arm should be approx. 8 - 10 mm
(0.31 - 0.39 in). In the course of this procedure, the upper chain portion [A]
must be taut (see drawing). If necessary, correct the chain tension.
– Excessive tensioning of the chain will put additional load on the components
of the secondary drivetrain (chain, bearings of transmission and rear
wheel). Aside from resulting premature wear, if worst comes to worst the
chain may rupture or the countershaft of the transmission may break.
– Too much slack in the chain, on the other hand, can result in the chain
jumping off the chain wheels. If this happens, the chain could also block
the rear wheel or damage the engine.
– In either case the operator is likely to lose control of the motorcycle.
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Correct chain tension
Loosen collar nut [1], loosen lock nuts [2], and turn right and left adjusting
3
screws [3] equally far. Tighten lock nuts.
B
2
To ensure the correct alignment of the rear wheel, the marks at the left and
right chain adjusters must be positioned identically in relation to the
reference marks [B]. Tighten the counter nut of the adjusting screws.
Clean and grease the adjusting screws regularly (Motorex Long Term Grease
2000). Before tightening the collar nut, verify that the chain adjusters [4] are
sitting close to the adjusting screws and that the rear wheel has been aligned
with the front wheel.
1
4
Tighten collar nut [1] to 80 Nm.
– If you don’t happen to have a torque wrench at hand, make sure you have
the tightening torque corrected by a KTM dealer as soon as possible. A
loose axle may lead to an unstable driving behavior of your motorcycle.
– Tighten the collar nut with the required torque.
B
NOTE:
4
The large adjusting range of the chain adjusters (32mm) allows you to use
different secondary ratios in combination with the same chain length. The
chain adjusters [4] can be rotated by 180°.
2
3
22
Adapting the chain guide to the number of rear sprocket teeth
NOTE:
D
The position of the chain guide must be adjusted due to the large number of
rear sprockets available. Up to 44 teeth, insert the retaining screw on the
chain guide in the lower hole [C], from 45 teeth in the upper hole [D].
C
Loosen both screws on the chain guide and pull the chain guide off the swing
arm. Turn the chain guide over, press out the retaining nut [5] and insert it
in the other hole [6], turning the retaining nut around.
Remount the chain guide and tighten the screws.
5
6
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Chain maintenance
For a long chain life, good maintenance is very important. Chains without
X-rings should be cleaned in fireproof solvent regularly and afterwards treated
with hot grease or chain spray (e.g. Motorex Chainlube 622).
No lubrication is allowed to reach the rear tire or the brake disks, otherwise
the road adherence and the rear wheel braking effects would be strongly reduced
and the motorcycle could easily lose control.
When mounting the chain masterlink clip, the closed side of the
masterlink clip must point in running direction.
Also check sprockets and chain guides for wear and replace if necessary.
Chain wear
To check the chain wear, observe the following indications:
Shift the gear into idling and pull the upper chain strand with approx. 10-15
Kilograms (33 lb) upwards (see figure). Now one can measure a space of 18
chain reels at the lower chain strand. The chain should be replaced at the
latest when a space of 272 mm (10.70 in) is measured. Chains do not always
wear off evenly, therefore repeat the measurement at different places on the
chain.
15 KG
33 lbs
NOTE:
23
If you mount a new chain, the sprockets should also be replaced. New chains
wear faster if used on old used sprockets.
Secure the screws of the chain wheel by applying Loctite 243 and fasten them
in a crosswise order. Tightening torque for nuts: 35 Nm; tightening torque for
screws: 50 Nm.
max. 272 mm
1
2
3
16 17 18
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
General information about KTM disc brakes
BRAKE CALIPERS:
The brake calipers of this series use a “floating“ mount. This means that the
brake calipers are not solidly attached to the caliper support, which enables
them to “float“ for maximum braking contact. Secure the screws of the caliper
support with Loctite 243 and tighten to 25 Nm.
BRAKE PADS:
The brake pads are fitted with TOSHIBA TT 2701 HHB sintered lining at the
front and TOYO B 143 FF sintered lining at the back. These linings provide
an optimal combination of dosing, brake performance and life cycle. The lining
type is stated on the back of the brake pad and also recorded in the homologation
papers.
Other brake pads are available for competition sports.
FRONT: TOSHIBA H 38 (SINTERED) – harder to dose, good brake per-
formance, long life, for wet slippery terrain.
FERODO ID 450 (ORGANIC) – easy to dose, good brake per-
formance, short life, for dry terrain, low price
REAR: FERODO 4424 (organic) – better controllability, shorter service
life, for dry terrain.
TOSHIBA H38 (Sinter) – longer service life than FERODO 4424,
higher braking performance.
BRAKE DISCS:
Due to wear, the thickness of the brake disc in the area of the contact
face [1] of the brake pads decreases. The brake disk must be at least
2.50 mm (front) / 3.50 mm (rear) thick at the thinnest point [A]. Check the
thickness of the brake disk at several points.
24
– A brake disk worn down to less than 2.50 mm (Front) / 3.50 mm (Rear)
is a safety risk. Have the brake disk replaced as soon as it reaches the
service limit.
A
– Have any repairs on the brake system be performed by a KTM dealer.
BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIRS:
The brake fluid reservoirs on the front and rear wheel brakes have been
designed in such a way that even if the brake pads are worn it is not necessary
to top up the brake fluid. If the brake fluid level drops below the minimum
level either the brake system has a leak or the brake pads are completely worn.
In this case, consult an authorized KTM dealer immediately.
1
BRAKE FLUID:
KTM fills the brake systems with Motorex Brake Fluid DOT 5.1 brake fluid,
one of the best brake currently available. We recommend that you continue
to use it. DOT 5.1 brake fluid is based on glycol ether and of an amber color.
If you do not have any DOT 5.1 for refilling, you may use DOT 4 brake fluid.
However, you should replace it as soon as possible with DOT 5.1.
Never use brake fluid DOT 5. The color of this silicon oil-based product is
purple red. The gaskets and brake hoses of KTM motorcycles are not
designed for DOT 5 brake fluid.
Have the brake fluid changed at least once annually. If you wash your motorcycle
often, the brake fluid should be changed even more frequently. Brake fluid
tends to absorb water. Therefore, vapor pockets may form in "old" brake fluids
even at low temperatures, causing the brake system to fail.
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Adjusting the free travel at the hand brake lever
Free travel at the hand brake lever may be readjusted by using adjustment
screw [1]. In this way, the position of the point of pressure (i.e. the resis-tance
you feel on the hand brake lever when the brake pads are pressed against the
brake disc) can be adjusted for any hand size.
When you press the hand brake lever forwards, you should have at least
3 mm free travel. Turn the adjusting screw [1] if necessary.
min. 3 mm
1
At the hand brake lever, free travel must at least be 3 mm (0.1 in). Only then
may the piston in the hand brake cylinder be moved (to be recognized by the
greater resistance of the hand brake lever). If this free travel is not provided,
pressure will build up in the braking system, and the front-wheel brake may
fail due to overheating.
Checking the brake fluid level - front brake
The brake fluid reservoir is linked with the hand brake cylinder at the handle-
bar and the reservoir is provided with an inspection glass. With the reservoir
in a horizontal position, the brake fluid level should not drop below the
middle of the glass.
If the brake fluid level drops below the minimum either the brake system has
a leak or the brake pads are completely worn. In this case, consult an authorized
KTM dealer immediately.
25
Refilling the front brake fluid reservoir *
Loosen screws [2] and remove lid [3] and membrane [4].
3
Place hand brake cylinder in a horizontal position and fill the brake fluid reservoir
to 5 mm (0.2 in) below the rim with clean brake fluid DOT 5.1 (e.g. Motorex
Brake Fluid DOT 5.1). Replace membrane and lid, tighten screws. Rinse off
spilled or overflowing brake fluid with water.
2
– Never use DOT 5 brake fluid! It is based on silicone oil and of a purple
color. Seals and brake hoses must be especially adapted to it.
– Store brake fluid out of reach of children.
4
– Brake fluid can cause skin irritation. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. If
you get brake fluid in your eyes, rinse with plenty of water and consult a
doctor
– Don’t let brake fluid get in contact with paint, it is an effective paint remover.
– Use only clean brake fluid taken from a tightly sealed container.
5 mm
Checking the front brake pads
The brake pads can be inspected from below. The linings must be at least
1 mm (0.04 in) thick.
min.
1 mm
At their most worn point brake pad linings should not be thinner than 1 mm,
otherwise they could lead to brake failure. For your own safety don’t put off
having your brake pads changed.
If the brake pads are replaced too late so that the lining is partly or entirely
worn, the steel components of the brake pad will rub against the brake disc,
thereby imparing the braking effect and destroying the brake disc.
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Replacing the front brake pads *
Press the brake caliper toward the brake disk, to put the brake piston in its
basic position. Remove clips [1] and pull out bolt [2]. Remove brake pads
from the brake caliper. Clean the brake caliper and the brake caliper support
with compressed air. Check the sleeves of the guide bolts for damage, and
grease guide bolts if necessary.
1
Mount the right brake pad and fix it with the bolt. Mount the left brake pad
and insert the bolt until it stops. Mount the clips.
When mounting the brake pads, be sure to check for correct fit of the
sliding metal-sheet [3] in the caliper support and of the leaf spring [4].
2
3
– It is very important to keep the brake disk free from oil and fatty matters.
Otherwise, the braking effect would be strongly reduced.
– After assembly, check if circlips have been fitted correctly.
– After working on the braking system, always actuate the hand brake lever
or foot brake lever, respectively to ensure that the brake pads will lie against
the brake disk and the pressure point isestablished.
1
4
2
2
1
26
Checking the rear brake fluid level
The reservoir for the rear brake disk is located on the right side of the
motorcycle on the rear brake cylinder.
No air bubble should be visible in inspection glass [A] when the vehicle is
parked in a vertical position.
A
If the brake fluid level drops below the minimum either the brake system has
a leak or the brake pads are completely worn. In this case, consult an authorized
KTM dealer immediately.
Refilling the rear brake fluid reservoir *
Add brake fluid as soon as a bubble is visible in inspection glass [A].
To top up, remove screw [5]. Fill DOT 5.1 brake fluid (e.g. Motorex Brake
Fluid DOT 5.1) up to the mark [B] on the inside of the reservoir and remount
the screw. Spilled brake fluid must be rinsed off with water.
B
– Never use DOT 5 brake fluid! It is based on silicone oil and of a purple
color. Seals and brake hoses must be especially adapted to it.
– Store brake fluid out of reach of children.
5
– Brake fluid can cause skin irritation. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. If
you get brake fluid in your eyes, rinse with plenty of water and consult a
doctor.
– Don’t let brake fluid get in contact with paint, it is an effective paint remover.
– Use only clean brake fluid taken from a tightly sealed container.
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Changing the basic position of the foot brake pedal *
The basic position of the foot brake pedal can be altered by turning the stop
screw [1]. The free play at the foot brake pedal must then be adjusted by
means of the piston rod [2].
Measured on the outside, the foot brake pedal must have 3-5 mm (0.12–0.20
in) of free play before the piston rod can move the piston in the brake cylinder
(to be recognised from the resistance on the foot brake pedal).
2
If this free play is not present, then pressure can build up in the brake system
when driving, causing the rear wheel to brake. The braking system overheats
and may even fail completely in extreme cases.
3-5mm
1
Checking the rear brake pads
The brake pads can be inspected from the rear. The thickness of the linings
may not be less than 1 mm (0.04 in).
min.
1 mm
At their most worn point brake pad linings should not be thinner than 1 mm,
otherwise they could lead to brake failure. For your own safety don’t put off
having your brake pads changed.
If the brake pads are replaced too late so that the lining is partly or entirely
worn, the steel components of the brake pad will rub against the brake disc,
thereby imparing the braking effect and destroying the brake disc.
27
Replacing the rear brake pads *
Push the brake caliper [3] toward the chain wheel in order to move the brake
piston into its basic position. Remove the clips [4], pull out the bolt [5], and
remove the brake pads. Thoroughly clean the brake caliper with compressed
air and check the sleeves of the guide bolts for damage.
3
Insert the left brake pad into the brake caliper and secure it with the bolt.
Insert the right brake pad and push the bolt [5] into the brake caliper up to
the stop. Reattach clips [4].
4
4
– It is very important to keep the brake disk free from oil and fatty matters.
Otherwise, the braking effect would be strongly reduced.
– After assembly, check if clips have been fitted correctly.
– After working on the braking system, always actuate the hand brake lever
or foot brake lever, respectively to ensure that the brake pads will lie against
the brake disk and the pressure point is established.
5
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Dismounting and mounting the front wheel
To remove the front wheel, jack the motorcycle up on its frame so that the
1
front wheel no longer touches the ground.
Loosen the 2 clamping screws [1] on the left side of the fork fists.
Loosen and remove the collar nut [2], loosen the clamping screews [3] on the
right side of the fork fist.
Hold the front wheel, pull out the wheel spindle [4].
Carefully remove the front wheel from the fork.
2
– Do not operate the hand brake when the front wheel has been dismounted.
– Make sure the brake disc is always on top when you lay down the wheel,
otherwise the brake disc can be damaged.
To install the front wheel, lift it into the fork, position and mount the axle
shaft. Mount the collar nut [2], tighten the clamping screws [3] on the right
fork leg axle passage to prevent the axle shaft from turning and tighten the
collar nut to 40 Nm (30ft.lb).
Loosen the clamp screws on the right fork leg. Take the motorcycle down from
its stand. Press the front wheel brakes and push down on the fork a few times
vigorously so that the fork legs come into alignment.
3
3
Only after this has been accomplished, tighten the clamp screws on both fork
legs with 15 Nm.
28
Before remounting the front wheel, clean and grease the shaft seal rings [A]
and the bearing surface [B] of the distance bushings and mount the distance
bushing
A
B
– If you don’t happen to have a torque wrench at hand, make sure you have
the tightening torque corrected by a KTM dealer as soon as possible. A
loose axle may lead to an unstable driving behavior of your motorcycle.
– After mounting the front wheel, keep operating the hand brake until the
pressure point returns.
4
– It is very important to keep the brake disk free from oil and fatty matters,
otherwise the braking effect would be strongly reduced.
3
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Dismounting and mounting the rear wheel
Jack the motorcycle up on its frame so that the rear wheel no longer
touches the ground.
Remove the collar nut [1], remove the chain tensioner [2] and pull out the
wheel spindle [3] until you can push the rear wheel forwards.
Take the chain off the rear sprocket, pull out the wheel spindle and carefully
remove the rear wheel from the swing arm.
2
– Do not operate the rear brake when the rear wheel has been dismounted.
– Make sure the brake disc is always on top when you lay down the wheel,
otherwise the brake disc can be damaged.
– If the axle is dismounted, clean the thread of the wheel spindle and collar
nut thoroughly and apply a new coat of grease to prevent the thread from
jamming.
1
The rear wheel is remounted in the reverse order. Before tightening the collar
nut to 80 Nm, push the rear wheel forwards so that the chain tensioners lie
on the tension screws.
3
– If you don’t happen to have a torque wrench at hand, make sure you have
the tightening torque corrected by a KTM dealer as soon as possible. A
loose axle may lead to an unstable driving behavior of your motorcycle.
– After mounting the rear wheel, keep operating the rear brake until the pressure
point returns.
29
– It is very important to keep the brake disk free from oil and fatty matters,
eitherwise the braking effects would be strongly reduced.
– Tighten the collar nut with the required torque. A loose wheel spindle may
lead to an unstable behavior of your motorcycle.
Checking spoke tension
The correct spoke tension is very important for the stability of the wheels and
thus for riding safety. A loose spoke causes the wheel to become unbalanced
and before long other spokes will have come loose. Check spoke tension, especially
on a new motorcycle, at regular intervals. For checking, tap on each spoke
with the blade of a screwdriver (see photo). A clear tone must be the result.
Dull tones are indicators of loose spokes. If necessary, have the spokes
retightened and the wheel centered by a KTM dealer.
– Spokes can tear if you continue to ride with them loose. This may lead to
an unstable handling of your motorcycle.
– Excessively tensioned spokes may rupture due to local overloading. The
spokes must be tensioned to 4.5-6 Nm.
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Tires, air pressure
Tire type, tire condition, and air pressure level affect the way your motor-cycle
rides and must therefore be checked whenever you are getting ready to go
anywhere on your motorcycle.
– Tire size can be found in the technical specifications.
– Tire condition has to be checked every time you want to ride your motorcycle.
Before leaving, check tires for punctures and nails or other sharp objects
that might have become embedded in them.
We recommend you replace the tires at the latest when the tread is down
to 2 mm (0.08 in).
– Tire pressure should be checked regularly on a “cold” tire. Proper pressure
ensures optimum driving comfort and extends the life of your tires.
– Do not mount tires which have not been approved by KTM. Other tires
could have adverse effects on the way your motorcycle behaves.
– front and rear wheels may only be fitted with tires having the same tread
layout.
– For your own safety replace damaged tires immediately.
– Worn tires can have a negative effect on how your motorcycle performs,
especially on wet surfaces.
TIRES-AIR PRESSURE
front
1,0 bar
rear
Off road
1,0 bar
– If air pressure is too low, abnormal wear and overheating of the tire can
result.
30
Battery (450 SX-F)
The battery is located under the seat and is maintenance-free.
Maintenance-free means you will not need to check the acid level. Clean the
battery terminals regularly and grease with acid-free grease if necessary. The
charge condition and type of charge are very important for the battery's service
life.
TO REMOVE THE BATTERY:
First disconnect the negative pole, then the positive pole from the battery.
Remove the filter box cover and detach the rubber band.
Remove the battery.
Install the battery as described for the specific type of battery (see illustration).
Connect the minus pole to the battery last.
– Be extremely careful if any electrolyte (sulfuric acid) runs out of the
battery. Electrolyte can cause severe burns.
– Rinse with plenty of water if coming into contact with the skin.
– If electrolyte gets in your eyes, rinse with water for at least 15 minutes
and consult a doctor immediately.
– Although the battery is sealed, explosive gases can escape. Keep the
battery away from sparks or open flame.
– Keep defective batteries away from children and dispose of properly.
Never remove the closure since it will be damaged
NOTE:
The 450 SX-F model is delivered with 2 batteries; 12 volts 3 A/h and 12 volts
4 A/h. The 4 A/h battery should be used for temperatures below 10°C.
STORAGE:
If the motorcycle is being immobilized for longer periods of time, remove and
charge the battery. Storage temperature 0 - 35°C, avoid direct sunlight.
Charge the battery every 3 months.
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Charging the battery (450 SX-F)
2
1
The battery discharges every day, even if it is not used.
Always disconnect the battery when charging. Charge the battery as described
in the instructions [1] on the battery housing. Do not exceed the amperage
and charging time. Quick charging at a high amperage has an adverse effect
on the service life.
Always use special charging devices to charge maintenance-free batteries, e.g.
the KTM charging device (item no. 58429074000). You can also use this
charging device to test the off-load voltage and startability of the battery and
generator. It is impossible to overcharge the battery with this device.
Charge the battery immediately if it is empty when you start the motorcycle.
If left to stand in an uncharged condition for a longer period of time, the battery
will run down and sulfatize, destroying the battery.
Recharge the battery every 3 months if it is being stored for a longer period
of time.
– Never remove the closure [2] since it will be damaged.
– To avoid damage to the on-board electronic system, always disconnect the
minus pole before you charge the battery.
– To charge, connect the battery to the battery charger before you switch on
the battery charger. When the battery is charged, switch off the battery
charger before you disconnect the battery.
VOLT
– Provide adequate ventilation when charging the battery in a closed room;
the battery emits explosive gases when charging.
– Electrolytes will escape through the safety valves if the battery is charged
too long or at an excessive voltage or amperage. This will reduce battery
capacity.
31
– Try to avoid quick charges.
Fuse (450 SX-F)
The fuse [3] is located in the starter relay of the E-starter [4] underneath the
left side paneling.
Having removed the left side paneling, the air box cover and the protection
cover [A], you will be able to see the fuse.
A
4
The starter relay also contains a (10 amp) spare fuse [5].
Replace a blown fuse only with an equivalent one. If a new fuse that has just
been installed gets blown again, you are strongly advised to have it
inspected by a KTM dealer.
3
The fuse capacity is 10 Ampere.
Under no circumstances is a stronger fuse allowed to be installed or a fuse
allowed to be “repaired”. An improper treatment could damage the whole
electrical installation.
5
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Cooling system
250 SX-F
450 SX-F
Coolant is circulated by a water pump [1] located in the engine.
Air blowing in through the radiators cools the coolant. The slower the speed
of the motorcycle, the less the coolant is cooled down. Dirty
radiators also reduce the cooling efficiency.
1
1
Pressure induced by heating of the coolant in the system is controlled by a
valve in the radiator cap [2]; a water temperature rising up to 120° C
(248° F) is admissible, without fear of problems.
– If possible, always check level of cooling liquid when the engine is cold.
If you have to open the radiator cap when the engine is hot, use a rag to
cover the cap and open slowly to release pressure. Caution - scalding hazard.
– Do not detach any radiator hoses while the engine is hot. The escaping
hot coolant and the steam may cause serious burns.
– In case you get burnt, hold the affected part of your body under running
cold water right away.
2
– Coolant is toxic. Keep the coolant out of the reach of children.
– In case coolant is ingested, consult a doctor immediately.
– If coolant gets into your eyes, rinse them out with water immediately and
consult doctor.
A mixture of 50% antifreeze liquid and 50% destilled water is used as coolant.
However, the antifreeze protection must be at least -25° C (-13° F). This mixture
offers antifreeze protection but also good corrosion protection and should therefore
not be replaced by pure water.
32
– The cooling system must be bled after draining the cooling liquid or after
adding more than 0.25 l (0.06 US gallons) cooling liquid.(see below).
– For the cooling system, use only high-grade antifreeze (e.g. Motorex Anti
Freeze). Using lower-grade antifreeze agents can cause corrosion and
coolant foaming.
Checking the coolant level
The coolant should be 10 mm (0.4 in) above the radiator fins when the engine
is cold (see diagram). In the event of the coolant being drained, always fill
and bleed the system.
10 mm
If possible, always check the level of cooling liquid when the engine is cold.
If you have to open the radiator cap [2] when the engine is hot, use a rag to
cover the cap and open slowly to release pressure.
when engine ist cold
Bleeding the cooling system
250 SX-F
450 SX-F
By removing the screw [3] at the water pump cover you can drain the coolant.
To bleed the cooling system, add coolant up to approx. 10 mm above the radiator
fins when the engine is cold.
After a short ride, check the coolant level once more.
3
3
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Replacing the glassfiber yarn packing of the silencer *
Aluminum silencers are filled with glassfiber yarn to muffle noise. Have the
filling checked regularly by an authorized KTM workshop (see Lubrication and
Service Chart). The insulating material fibers escape through the holes in the
perforated pipe with time, causing the silencer to “burn out“. In addition to
causing a higher noise-level, it will also affect the power characteristic. The
insulating material suitable for your exhaust is available from your authorized
KTM workshop.
6
2
5
1
To replace, remove all screws, take off the cap [1] and outer pipe [2]. Pull
the glass fiber yarn packing [3] out of the inner pipe [4]. Clean all parts thoroughly.
Slide a new glass fiber yarn packing over the inner pipe. Mount a new O-ring
[5] and slide the outer pipe over the glass fiber yarn packing.
Mount a new O-ring [6] and insert the cap in the outer pipe; mount and tighten
all screws.
NOTE:
In every exhaust repair procedure, the O-rings must be replaced by new ones.
Glass fiber yarn packings are available from your licensed KTM mechanic.
4
3
Make sure the caps are screwed on tightly. Mount the muffler stress-free before
tightening the fixing screws.
The exhaust system becomes very hot while the motorcycle is running. to avoid
burns do not start work on the exhaust system until it has properly cooled
down.
33
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Cleaning the air filter *
The air filter must be cleaned prior to each race or whenever dust has
accumulated. To clean, lift the filter box cover [1].
Detach the filter retaining clip [2] at the bottom, swing aside and take the air
filter [3] and filter support [4] out of the filter box.
1
– Do not clean foam filter with fuel or petroleum since these damage the
foam. KTM recommends the products of the company Motorex for air filter
maintenance (Bio Dirt Remover and Liquid Bio Power).
– Never start your motorcycle without any air filters. Otherwise, dust and
dirt may penetrate and cause damage and increased wear.
– Dust and dirt can accumulate and damage the engine if the air filter is
not mounted correctly.
Thoroughly wash the air filter in special cleaning fluid and allow it to dry well.
Only press out the filter, do not wring it out under any circumstances. Oil the
dry air filter with a high-grade filter oil. Also clean the air filter box. Check
the carburetor collar for damage and that it is filled correctly.
3
Place the air filter on the filter support and insert both in the center of the
filter box. Hold in place with the filter retaining clip.
2
34
3
4
2
Adjusting the throttle cables *
The throttle grip should always provide for a backlash of 3-5mm. Besides,
with the engine running, the idling speed must not change if you turn the
handlebar all the way to the left or right.
To adjust the throttle cables, dismount the seat and the tank together with
spoilers. Slide back the protection cover [5]. Loosen the counternut [6] and
turn the adjusting screw [7] accordingly. Turning the adjusting screw
counterclockwise will reduce the backlash, turning the adjusting screw
clockwise will increase the backlash.
Tighten the counternut and check whether the throttle grip can be
actuated smoothly. Mount tank and seat.
7
6
5
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Changing the original position of the clutch lever
The adjusting screw [1] can be used for individual adjustment of the original
position of the clutch lever, thus allowing adjustment to an optimal position
for every hand size.
Turning the adjusting screw counterclockwise reduces the distance between
the clutch lever and the handlebar. Turning the adjusting screw clockwise
increases the distance between the clutch lever and the handlebar.
Adjustment of the clutch lever position is only possible within certain limits.
Only turn the adjusting screw manually and never apply excessive force.
1
Checking the oil level of the hydraulic clutch
2
To check the oil level in the master cylinder of the clutch remove the cover.
For this purpose, remove screws [2] and cover [3] together with the rubber
boot [4]. The oil level in the horizontal-standing master cylinder should be 4
mm below the upper edge.
3
250 SX-F: if necessary, fill up with brake fluid DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 (e.g. Motorex
Brake Fluid DOT 5.1)
4
– Never use DOT 5 brake fluid! It is based on silicone oil and of a purple
color. Seals and brake hoses must be especially adapted to it.
– Store brake fluid out of reach of children.
– Brake fluid can cause skin irritation. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. If
you get brake fluid in your eyes, rinse with plenty of water and consult a
doctor.
35
– Don’t let brake fluid get in contact with paint, it is an effective paint remover.
– Use only clean brake fluid taken from a tightly sealed container.
450 SX-F: if necessary, fill up with biodegradable hydraulic oil SAE 10 (e.g.
Motorex Kupplungs-Fluid 75). Biodegradable hydraulic oil is available from
your KTM dealer (50ml).
KTM uses biodegradable, hydraulic mineral oil to actuate the hydraulic clutch
of the 450 SX-F-model. Do not mix this oil with any other hydraulic oil. Always
use original KTM hydraulic oil (available from your authorized KTM workshop)
to make sure your clutch operates smoothly. Never refill with brake fluid.
6
5
Bleeding of the hydraulic clutch *
If the clutch lever starts to feel unresponsive, the clutch control system needs
to be bled. You will need a bleeder syringe (special tool), available from your
KTM dealer.
Turn the handlebar until the master cylinder is in a horizontal position, remove
the screws [2], the cover [3] and the rubber boot [4].
Fill the bleeder syringe [5] with brake fluid (250 SX-F) or biodegradable hydraulic
oil (450 SX-F).
KTM uses brake fluid DOT 5.1 for 250 SX-F and biodegradable, hydraulic
mineral oil for 450 SX-F to actuate the hydraulic clutch - see above.
7
Remove the bleeder screw [6] from the slave cylinder and mount the bleeder
syringe. Press oil into the system until the oil runs out of the hole [7] in the
master cylinder without bubbles. Occasionally extract the oil from the master
cylinder reservoir to keep it from overflowing.
After you finish bleeding, remove the bleeder syringe, mount the bleeder screw,
correct the oil level in the reservoir and mount the cover (see above).
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
CARBURETOR – Adjust idling (Keihin FCR-MX 39/41) *
Idling adjustment of the carburetor strongly affects the engine’s starting
behavior. That is, an engine whose idling speed is adjusted correctly will be
easier to start than one whose idling speed has not been adjusted correctly.
The idle speed is controlled by means of the adjusting wheel [1] and the
mixture control screw [2]. The adjusting wheel is used to adjust the basic
setting of the slide. The mixture control screw is used to control the idle mixture
which arrives at the engine by way of the idle system. Clockwise turning reduces
the fuel quantity (lean mixture), counterclockwise turning increases the fuel
quantity (rich mixture).
1
TO ADJUST IDLING CORRECTLY, PROCEED AS FOLLOWS:
1
Turn in mixture control screw [2] up to the stop, and turn it back out to
the basic position (see technical date-engine)
Warm up the engine
2
3
4
Use the adjusting wheel [1] to set the normal idle speed (1400 - 1500 rpm).
Turn mixture control screw [2] slowly clockwise until idling speed starts
to decrease. Memorize this position, and turn mixture control screw slowly
counterclockwise until the idling speed decreases again. Adjust the point
of the highest idling speed between these two positions. If, in the course
of this procedure, the speed undergoes a relatively high increase, reduce
the idle speed to a normal level and repeat the procedure specified in 4.
Serious competitive racers will choose a setting approx. 1/4 turn (clockwise)
leaner than this ideal value because their engine will heat up more when
used in competitions.
NOTE: If you fail to obtain a satisfying result by following the procedure
described above, an incorrectly dimensioned idling nozzle may be the cause.
If:
a) the mixture control screw has been screwed in up to the stop without
causing any change in rotational speed, a smaller idling jet has to be
installed;
2
36
b) the engine dies when the mixture control screw is still open by
2 turns, a larger idling jet needs to be selected.
Naturally, in cases of jet changes, you have to start your adjusting work
from the beginning.
Then, use the adjusting wheel to set the desired idle speed.
In cases of greater changes in the outside temperature and extremely
different altitudes, the idling speed should be readjusted.
5
6
Basic information on carburetor wear
As a result of engine vibrations, the throttle valve, jet needle, and needle jet
are subjected to increased wear. This wear may cause the carburetor to
malfunction (e.g., overly rich mixture). Therefore, these parts should be
replaced after approx. 200 hours.
Checking the float level (float height) *
For this purpose, dismount the carburetor and remove the float chamber. Hold
the carburetor in a slanted position such that the float will abut the float needle
valve but not compress it.
In this position, the edge of the float should be parallel with the float chamber
sealing surface (see illustration).
If the float height does not correspond to the desired value, check the float
needle valve and, if necessary, replace it.
If the float needle valve is o.k., you can adjust the float height by bending the
float lever [3].
Mount the float chamber, install the carburetor, and adjust the idle speed.
3
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Draining the float chamber of the carburetor
Following every wet-cleaning procedure, the float chamber of the carburetor
should be drained in order to remove any water that may have penetrated into
it. Water in the float chamber leads to engine malfunction.
Make sure you do this while the engine is cold. Close the fuel tap and place a
cloth under the carburetor, which is capable of absorbing the leaking fuel.
250 SX-F: Unscrew the plug [1] and clean it with compressed air. Then, mount
the plug together with the gasket, open the fuel tap, and check the float chamber
for leaks.
1
450 SX-F: Put the end of the hose that leads downward behind the engine
into an appropriate container.
Open the drain plug [2], turning it counterclockwise a few times, and let the
fuel drain from the float chamber.
Then tighten the drain plug and open the fuel tap.
2
– Fuel is easily flammable and toxic. When handling fuel, be sure to exercise
the utmost caution. Never perform any work on the fuel system near open
flames or burning cigarettes.
– Always allow the engine to cool off first. Immediately clean up any fuel
which may have been spilled. Materials saturated with fuel are also easily
flammable. In case you ingested fuel or fuel splashed into your eyes, consult
a doctor immediately.
– Dispose of the fuel properly.
Checking the engine oil level
The engine oil level can be checked with the engine either warm or cold. Place
the motorcycle in an upright position and on a horizontal surface (not on the
side stand).
37
If the engine is cold, the engine oil must be visible at the lower edge of the
inspection glass [A].
If the engine is warm, the engine oil must be visible up to the upper edge of
the inspection glass [B].
B
A
Replenish the engine oil, if necessary.
Insufficient amounts of or low-grade engine oil lead to premature wear in the
engine.
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Engine oil
Automobile engine oil used to be used for four-stroke motorcycles before there
were separate motorcycle specifications. Different technical developments made
it necessary to have a separate specification for four-stroke motorcycles - the
JASO T903 MA standard. Whereas car engines require long changing intervals,
motorcycle engines require a higher power output at higher speeds. Most
motorcycle engines also use the same oil to lubricate the transmission and
the clutch. The JASO MA standard responds to these special requirements.
Only use fully synthetic engine oils that meet the JASO MA quality requirements
(see information on the can).
JASO T903 MA
TEMPERATURE
5°C
41°F
KTM recommends Motorex Power Synt 4T in the 10W/50 viscosity (for
temperatures over 5°C, 41°F) or 5W/40 (for temperatures under 5°C, 41°F).
5W/40
10W/50
Insufficient oil or poor quality oil results in premature wear of the engine.
250 SX-F
1
Changing the engine oil *
NOTE: When changing the engine oil, it is necessary to clean the short and
long oil screens (450 SX-F only one oil screen) and to replace the oil filter.
Engine oil has be changed with the engine at an operating temperature.
2
An engine at operating temperature and the engine oil it contains are very hot
– do not burn or scald yourself.
Place the motorcycle on a horizontal surface, remove the plug [1] and allow
the oil to drain into a receptacle.
Clean plug (with magnet) thoroughly.
38
Once the entire oil has been drained, clean the sealing surface, mount the
plug together with the sealing ring and tighten it to 20 Nm.
450 SX-F
CLEANING THE SHORT OIL SCREEN (250 SX-F) AND OIL SCREEN (450 SX-F)
The oil screen is accommodated in the hex-socket plug [3] at the engine bottom.
Insert a pin-type key into the plug and tap on the key a few times with a hammer
in order to relieve the stress acting on the plug. Dismount the oil screen, clean
the components thoroughly and blow compressed air through them. Check
the O-rings for damage and, if necessary, replace them. Mount the oil screen
together with the plug again and tighten the plug to 10 Nm (250 SX-F) or 30
Nm (450 SX-F).
1
2
CLEANING THE LONG OIL SCREEN (250 SX-F)
The long oil screen is accommodated in the hexagon plug [3] adjacent to the
engine number. Dismount the plug together with the oil screen, clean the
components thoroughly and blow compressed air through them. Check the O-
rings for damage and, if necessary, replace them.
3
To mount the long oil screen [4], place it on an approx. 300 mm (12 in) long
pin-type key or a similar tool. Insert the pin-type key through the opening into
the bore of the opposite engine casing wall. Then, push the oil screen into
the engine casing as far as possible. Remove the pin-type key, mount the plug
and tighten it to 15 Nm.
4
The oil screen is mounted slightly downwards, incorrectly fitted, the screen
looses its function and this can cause increased engine wear.
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Changing the oil filters
250 SX-F
450 SX-F
Place a receptacle underneath the engine to collect the drained oil. Remove
1
1
the 2 screws [1] and dismount the oil filter cover.
1
1
Using circlip pliers, pull the oil-filter insert [2] out of the housing.
Clean the oil filter cover, the sealing surface of the O-ring and the engine casing.
Check the O-ring of the oil filter covers for damage and, if necessary, replace
it.
2
39
Put the motorcycle on its side and fill the oil filter housing about halfway with
engine oil. Fill oil filter with oil, place the oil filter in the filter box.
Grease the O-ring [3] of the oil filter cover and mount the cover. Mount the
screws and tighten them to 6 Nm.
3
Return the motorcycle to an upright position.
Remove the oil plug [4] at the clutch cover and fill in 1.1 liters (250
SX-F) or 1.3 liters (450 SX-F) of fully synthetic engine oil (Motorex Power
Synt 4T 10W/50).
4
Start the engine and check all screwed connections and the oil filter cover
for leaks.
Finally, check the engine oil level and, if necessary, correct it.
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TROUBLESHOOTING »
If you had the specified maintenance work on your motorcycle carried out, disturbances can hardly be expected. Should an error occur
nevertheless, we advise you to use the troubleshooting chart in order to find the cause of error.
We would like to point out that many operations cannot be performed by yourself. In case of uncertainty, please contact a KTM-dealer.
TROUBLE
CAUSE
REMEDY
Engine doesn’t crank (E-starter). Blown fuse
Dismount the left paneling and the filter box cover and
replace the fuse in the starter relay.
Discharged battery.
Recharge the battery and investigate the causes for
discharging; contact a KTM dealer.
Low outside temperature
Engine cranks but doesn’t start (E- Operating error
Use the 12 V / 4 A-h battery included in the scope of supply.
Open fuel tap, tank fuel, actuate choke. Pay attention to
starting information (see driving instructions).
starter).
Engine will not start (Kickstarter). The motorcycle has been out of operation The easily inflammable components of the new fuels
for a longer period of time. Therefore evaporate during longer periods of standing still.
old fuel has accumulated in the float When the motorcycle has been out of operation for more
chamber
than a week, it is therefore recommended to drain the old
fuel from the float chamber. The engine will immediately
start when the float chamber is filled with new fuel.
Fuel supply interrupted
Close fuel tap, loosen fuel hose at carburetor, lead into a
basin and open fuel tap
–
–
if fuel leaks out, the carburetor may need cleaning
if no fuel leaks out, check tank ventilation, i.e. clean
fuel tap
40
Flooded engine
Clean and dry the spark plug or exchange it, respectively
Clean and dry the spark plug or exchange it, respectively
Adjust spark plug electrode gap to 0.6 mm
Sooty or wet spark plug
Electrode gap too large
Spark plug connector or spark plug Dismount spark plug, connect ignition cable, hold to
faulty
ground (blank place on engine) and actuate starter, a
strong spark must be produced at the spark plug
–
–
If no spark is created replace the spark plug.
If the new spark plug doesn't produce a spark either,
disconnect the spark plug connector from the ignition
cable, hold it a distance of approx. 5 mm from ground
and start.
–
–
If a spark now occurs, replace spark plug cap
If no spark is produced, control ignition system
Short circuit cable scored in wiring Dismount the fuel tank, disconnect the black/yellow cable
harness, short circuit button faulty
from the cable of the short-circuit button, respectively, and
check the ignition spark.
If a spark is generated, look for the problem in the short-
circuit circuit.
The plug connection of the CDI-unit, the Remove the seat and the fuel tank. Clean the plug
pulse generator or the ignition coil has connection and treat it with contact spray
oxydized
Water in carburetor or jets blocked
Glogged idling jet
Dismount and clean the carburetor
Engine fails to idle
Disassemble the carburetor and clean the jets
Incorrect adjustment of adjusting Have the carburetor adjusted
screws on carburetor
Defective spark plug
Replace the spark plug
Defective ignition system
Have the ignition system checked
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TROUBLESHOOTING »
TROUBLE
CAUSE
REMEDY
Engine does not rev up
Carburetor fuel level too high because float Dismount carburetor and check if worn out
needle valve is dirty or worn out
Loose carburetor jets
Tighten jets
Electronic ignition timing faulty
Have ignition system checked
Engine will not reach full power Fuel supply partially interrupted or Clean and check fuel system as well as carburetor
carburetor dirty
Float leaks
Replace the float
Air filter very dirty
Clean or replace air filter
Exhaust system is not tight, deformed, or Check if exhaust is damaged, replace glasfiber yarn in
the silencer does not contain enough exhaust silencer
glassfiber yarn
Valve gap too small
Adjust valve gap
Electronic ignition timing faulty
Have ignition system checked
Engine stops or splutters in Insuffient fuel
Clean and check fuel system and carburettor
Check rubber sleeve and carburetor for tight fit
carburetor
Engine takes air out of control
Insufficient cooling liquid
Engine gets too hot
Refill cooling liquid (see maintenace work), check cooling
system for leaks
41
Not enough air stream
Drive on briskly
Cooling system has not been bled
Radiators very dirty
Bleed cooling system
Clean radiators with water jet
Foam formation in cooling system
Bent cooling hose
Replace cooling liquid, use antifreeze liquid with brand name
Shorten or replace cooling hose
High oil consumption
Hose of engine ventilation is bent
Engine oil level too high
Dislocate i.e. replace non-buckling vetilation hose
Check engine oil level and, if necessary, correct it
Use thicker engine oil; see chapter “Engine oil“
Motor oil too thin (viscosity)
The battery is discharged
The battery isn’t charged by the generator Remove seat and fuel tank and check voltage regulator
because
connections; voltage regulator and generator should be
checked by a KTM dealer.
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CLEANING »
Clean your motorcycle regularly in order to maintain the beauty of its plastic surfaces.
The best manner would be to use warm water that has been mixed with a normal brand-name washing detergent and a sponge.
The hard dirt can be removed before washing with the help of a soft water jet.
If using a power washer, do not point the water jet at the electric components, plugs, cables, bearings, carburetor, etc. The high pressure
will cause water to penetrate into the components and can cause them to malfunction or lead to premature wear.
– You should use normal brand-name detergents to clean the motorcycle. Especially dirty parts should also be cleaned with the help
of a paint brush.
– Before cleaning with water, plug the exhaust pipe to prevent water ingress
– After the motorcycle has been rinsed with a soft water jet, it should be dried by air pressure and a cloth. Drain the float chamber
of the carburetor. Then take a short drive until the engine has reached the working temperature and also use the brakes. By warming
these components, the residual water can evaporate from inaccessable parts of the engine and the brakes.
– Slide back the protective covers on the handlebar-mounted instruments so that any water that may have seeped into this part of
the motorcycle is allowed to evaporate.
– Once the motorcycle has cooled down, oil or grease all sliding and bearing points. Treat the chain with a chain spray. Also oil the
fuel tap.
– To avoid any failures in of the electric system, you should treat the short-circuit button and socket connectors with a contact spray.
STORAGE »
42
Should you wish to make a pause over a longer space of time, please observe the following instructions:
– Clean motorcycle thoroughly (see chapter: CLEANING)
– Change engine oil, oil filter (old engine oil contains aggressive contaminants).
– Check antifreeze and amount of cooling liquid.
– Warm up the engine once again, close the fuel cock and wait until the engine dies. Then open the drain plug of the float chamber
to remove the remaining fuel.
– Remove spark plug and fill in approx. 5 ccm of engine oil into the cylinder through the opening. Actuate kick-starter 10 times or
E-starter motor 5 sec. in order to distribute the oil onto the cylinder walls and mount the spark plug.
– Set piston to compression so that the valves will be closed (slowly operate the kickstarter until you can hear the automatic
decompressor click (release))
– Let fuel flow out of tank into an appropriate container.
– Correct tire pressure.
– Lubricate pivot points of the control levers, foot rests, etc. as well as the chain.
– Service the shock absorber linkage
– Disassemble and charge battery (see chapter: BATTERY).
– The storage place should be dry and not subjected to excessive temperature fluctuations.
– Cover the motorcycle with an air permeated tarpaulin or blanket. Do not use airtight materials as a possible humidity might not be
able to escape and could cause corrosion.
It would be very bad to let the engine run for a short time during the storage period. The engine would not get warmed up enough and
the thus developed steam would condense during the combustion process and cause the valves and exhaust to rust.
USE AFTER A PERIOD OF STORAGE
– Mount the charged battery (regard polarity).
– Fill up tank with fresh fuel.
– Check motorcycle as before each start (see driving instructions).
– Take a short, careful test ride first.
NOTE: Before you put your motorcycle away for the winter, you should check all parts for their function and wear. Should any service
jobs, repairs, or any refitting be necessary, you should have them carried out during the off-season (lower workload at mechanics’ shops).
This way, you can avoid the long waiting times at your mechanic at the beginning of the next biking season.
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TECHNICAL DATA – ENGINE »
ENGINE
250 SX-F
450 SX-F
Design
Liquid-cooled single cylinder 4-stroke engine
249.51 ccm
Displacement
Bore/Stroke
Ratio
449.3 ccm
97 / 60.8 mm
12.5 : 1
76 / 55 mm
12.8 : 1
Fuel
unleaded fuel with at least RON 95
Valve timing
4 valves controlled by finger levers and 2 camshafts,
driven by a pair of spur gears and a tooth-type chain
Camshaft
05
773.36.009.100 / 773.36.010.100
Valve diameter Intake
Valve diameter Exhaust
30.9 mm
26.5 mm
40.4 mm
31.7 mm
0.15 mm
0.20 mm
Valve clearence cold Intake 0.10 - 0.20 mm
Valve clearence cold Exhaust 0.12 - 0.22 mm
Crank shaft bearing
Connecting rod bearing
Top end bearing
Piston
2 cylinder roller bearings
needle bearing
bronze bushing
alluminium alloy forged
Piston rings
1 compression ring, 1 oil scraper ring
Engine lubrication
Engine oil
pressure circulation lubrication with 2 rotor pumps
43
full synthetic oil (see below)
Quantity of engine oil
Primary drive
Transmission claw shifted
1st gear
1.1 liters
22:68
6-speed
13:32
15:30
17:28
19:26
21:25
22:24
1.3 liters
29:74
4-speed
17:32
19:30
21:28
23:26
-
2nd gear
3rd gear
4th gear
5th gear
6th gear
-
Ignition system
Generator
contactless DC-CDI ignition with digital advanced system by KOKUSAN
no generator
42 Watts at 10.000 rpm
Spark plug
NGK CR 9 EBK
Cooling system
Cooling liquid
Starting device
liquid cooled, permanent rotation of cooling liquid through mechanically driven water pump
1.2 liters, 50% antifreeze, 50% destilled water, at least -25° (-13° F)
kick starter
E-starter
Engine oil
Only use fully synthetic engine oils that meet the JASO MA quality requirements
(see information on the can).
KTM recommends Motorex Power Synt 4T in the 10W/50 viscosity (for
temperatures over 5°C, 41°F) or 5W/40 (for temperatures under 5°C, 41°F).
JASO T903 MA
TEMPERATURE
5°C
41°F
Poor oil quality or minor quantity cause early engine-wear.
5W/40
10W/50
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TECHNICAL DATA – ENGINE »
TIGHTENING TORQUES – ENGINE 250/450 SX-F
Hexagon collar screw, engine case, clutch cover, ignition cover, water pump cover M6
10 Nm
Hexagon collar screw, engine case, clutch case
Oil drain plug
M7x1
14 Nm
M12x1.5
M16x1.5
M20x1.5
M32x1,5
M5
20 Nm
Allen head plug, oil screen short (250 SX-F)
Hexagon plug, oil screen long (250 SX-F)
Plug, oil screen (450 SX-F)
10 Nm oiled
15 Nm
30 Nm oiled
Collar screw for oil filter cover (250 SX-F)
Collar screw for oil filter cover (450 SX-F)
Plug pressure valve
6 Nm
M4
6 Nm
M12x1,5 / M14x1,5
M6
18 Nm
Hexagon collar screw/collar nut cylinder / cylinder head
Cylinder head screw (250 SX-F)
Collar nut cylinder head (450 SX-F)
Hexagon collar screw, exhaust flange
Valve cover screws
10 Nm oiled
M10
40/50 Nm oiled
10 Nm/30 Nm/50°
Loctite 243 + 10 Nm
10 Nm
M10x1,25
M6
M6
Hexagon nut, primary gear (250 SX-F)
Hexagon nut, primary gear (450 SX-F)
Nut for inner clutch hub (250 SX-F)
Nut for inner clutch hub (450 SX-F)
Hexagon collar screw, clutch spring
Allan head screw, shift roller locking piece
Hexagon collar screw, locking lever
Plug for chain tensioner
M18x1.5 left
M27x1
M18x1.5
M18x1.5
M6
Loctite 243 + 150 Nm
60 Nm
Loctite 243 + 120 Nm
Loctite 243 + 80 Nm
10 Nm
44
M6
Loctite 243 + 10 Nm
Loctite 243 + 6 Nm
25 Nm
M5
M24x1.5
M5
Hexagon collar screw, stator
Loctite 243 + 6 Nm
Loctite 243 + 6 Nm
60 Nm
Hexagon collar screw, pulser coil
Hexagon collar nut, flywheel (250 SX-F)
Flywheelscrew (450 SX-F)
M5
M12x1
M10x1
M6
80 Nm oiled
Cable retaining bracket (ignition)
Allan head screw, kickstarter
Loctite 243 + 6 Nm
Loctite 243 + 25 Nm
Loctite 243 + 10 Nm
Loctite 243 + 60 Nm
10-12 Nm
M8
Hexagon collar screw, shift lever
Hexagon screw, engine sprocket
Spark plug
M6
M10
M10
BASIC CARBURATOR SETTING
250 SX-F
450 SX-F
Type
Keihin FCR-MX 3925E
Keihin FCR-MX 4125F
Main jet
175
185
Jet needle
OBETP
OBDTP
Idling jet
40
40
Main air jet
200
200
Idling air jet
Needle position
Starting jet
100
5th from top
100
4th from top
85
85
Mixture control screw open
Slide
1.25
1.5
15
15
Performance restrictor
Stop pump membrane
Hot start device
–
–
858 / 2.15 mm
2.5 mm
858 / 2.15 mm
2.5 mm
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TECHNICAL DATA – CHASSIS »
CHASSIS
250 SX-F
450 SX-F
Frame
Central tube chrome-moly-steel frame
WP 4860 CC MA
Fork
Wheel travel front/rear
Rear suspension
Front brake
Rear brake
Brake disc
300/335 mm
WP PDS shock absorber 5018 DCC, aluminium swing arm
Disk brake with carbon-steel brake disc Ø 260 mm (10.2 in), brake caliper floated
Disk brake with carbon-steel brake disc Ø 220 mm (8.7 in), brake caliper floated
Wear limit max. 2.5 mm front and 3.5 mm rear
Front tires
Air pressure offroad
80/100-21“
1.0 bar
Rear tires
Air pressure offroad
110/90-19“
1.0 bar
Fuel tank capacity
Final drive ratio
8 liters (2.1 US gall.)
13:48
14:52
Chain
5/8 x 1/4“
Available final sprockets
Battery
38, 40, 42, 45, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52
-
maintenance free 12V 3 Ah and 4Ah
Steering head angle
Wheel base
63.5°
1475 ± 10 mm
925 mm
380 mm
approx . 98.2 kg
45
Seat height, unloaded
Ground clearance, unloaded
Weight (without fuel)
approx . 104.2 kg
STANDARD ADJUSTMENT – FORK
250 SX-F
450 SX-F
WP 4860 CC MA
14.18.7C.03
WP 4860 CC MA
14.18.7C.05
Compression adjuster
Rebound adjuster
Spring
15
15
20
21
4.4 N/mm
385 ml
195 ml
1.2 bar
SAE 5
4.6 N/mm
375 ml
195 ml
1.2 bar
SAE 5
Oil capacity without CC
Oil capacity CC
Gas pressure
Fork oil
STANDARD ADJUSTMENT – SHOCK ABSORBER
250 SX-F
450 SX-F
WP PDS 5018 DCC
WP PDS 5018 DCC
12.18.7C.05
12.18.7C.03
15 LS (low speed)
1 HS (high speed)
25
15 LS (low speed)
1 HS (high speed)
25
Compression adjuster
Rebound adjuster
Spring
63-250
66-250
Spring preload
Static sag
5 mm
5 mm
33 mm
33 mm
Riding sag
107 mm
107 mm
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TECHNICAL DATA – CHASSIS »
TIGHTENING TORQUES – CHASSIS 250/450 SX-F
Collar screw, front wheel spindle
Brake caliper, front
M24x1,5
M8
40 Nm
Loctite 243 + 25 Nm
Loctite 243 + 14 Nm
17 Nm
Brake disks
M6
Clamping screws, top triple clamp
Clamping screws, bottom triple clamp
Clamping screws, fork stubs
Clamping screw steering stem
Steering head screw top
M8
M8
12 Nm
M8
15 Nm
M8
Loctite 243 + 17 Nm
10 Nm
M 20x1,5
M 20x1,5
M16x1,5
M8
Steering head screw bottom
Collar nut, swing arm bolt
Hexagon collar screw, handlebar clamp
Allan head screw, handlebar support
Shock absorber, top
Loctite 243 + 60 Nm
100 Nm
20 Nm
M10
Loctite 243 + 40 Nm
70 Nm
M12
Shock absorber, bottom
M12
70 Nm
Collar nut rear wheel spindle
Sprocket screws
M20x1,5
M8
80 Nm
Loctite 2701 + 35 Nm
10 Nm
Ball joint for push rod
M6
Engine mounting bolt
M10
60 Nm
Engine brace
M8
33 Nm
46
Spoke nipple
4,5 - 6 Nm
8Nm
Screw adjusting ring spring preload shock abs.
M6
Seat fixing nut
M 12x1
20 Nm
Other screws on chassis
M6
M8
M10
M6
M8
10 Nm
25 Nm
45 Nm
15 Nm
30 Nm
50 Nm
Other collar nuts on chassis
M10
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HEAD WORD INDEX »
Page
Page
Important . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Instructions for initial operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Adapting the chain guide to the number of rear
Adjusting the free travel at the hand brake lever . . . . .25
Adjusting the throttle cables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Basic information on carburetor wear . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Basic suspension setup for the weight of the driver . . .17
Battery (450 SX-F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Bleeding of the hydraulic clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Bleeding the cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Braking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Breather plug front fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Carburetor – Adjust idling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Chain maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Chain wear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Changing the basic position of the foot brake pedal . .27
Changing the engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Changing the fork offset (caster) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Changing the oil filters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Changing the original position of the clutch lever . . . .35
Changing the spring preload on the telescopic fork . . .18
Changing the spring preloading of the shock absorber .16
Chassis number . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Check chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Check the following before each start . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Checking and adjusting the steering head bearing . . .20
Checking spoke tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Checking the basic setup of the telescopic fork . . . . .18
Checking the brake fluid level - front brake . . . . . . . .25
Checking the coolant level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Checking the engine oil level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Checking the float level (float height) . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Checking the front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Checking the oil level of the hydraulic clutch . . . . . .35
Checking the throttle cable installation . . . . . . . . . . .20
Checking the rear brake fluid level . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Checking the rear brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Checking the shock absorber and spring . . . . . . . . . .17
Choke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Cleaning the air filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Cleaning the dust sleeves of the telescopic fork . . . . .18
Clutch lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Compression damping of fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Correct chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Damping action during compression of shock absorber .8
Determining the riding sag of the shock absorber . . . .17
Determining the static sag of the shock absorber . . . .17
Dismounting and mounting the front wheel . . . . . . . .28
Dismounting and mounting the rear wheel . . . . . . . . .29
Draining the float chamber of the carburetor . . . . . . .37
Driving instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Engine number, engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Filler cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Foot brake pedal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Fuel tap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Fuse (450 SX-F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
General information about KTM disc brakes . . . . . . . .24
General tips and warnings for starting the motorcycle .10
Hand brake lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Hot start lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
How to change the handlebar position . . . . . . . . . . . .21
sprocket teeth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Kickstarter (250 SX-F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Maintenance work on chassis and engine . . . . . . . . . .16
Operation instruments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Periodic maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Pivot bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Plug in stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Rebound damping of fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Rebound damping of shock absorber . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Refilling the front brake fluid reservoir . . . . . . . . . . .25
Refilling the rear brake fluid reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Replacing fork springs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Replacing the front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Replacing the glassfiber yarn packing of the silencer .33
Replacing the rear brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Running in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Serial number locations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Shift lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Shifting/Riding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Short circuit button . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Starter button (450 SX-F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Starting off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Starting when the engine is cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Starting when the engine is warm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Stopping and parking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Table of contents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Technical Data – Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Tires, air pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Use after a period of storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
What to do when the engine is “flooded“ . . . . . . . . . .12
47
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SCHALTPLAN » WIRING DIAGRAM
1
C
D
I
red-white
red-black
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SCHALTPLAN » WIRING DIAGRAM
yellow-black
2
blue-white
brown
yellow-black
red
green
C
D
blue
blue
yellow
yellow
black
black
I
red-white
red-white
white
black-white
grey-black
grey
brown
black
yellow
yellow
black
red-white
red-white
black-white
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SCHALTPLAN » WIRING DIAGRAM
3
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KTM Group Partner
KTM-Sportmotorcycle AG
A–5230 Mattighofen
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