KTM Motorcycle 250 SX F 250 XC F XCF W 250 EXC F EXC F User Manual

OWNER’S MANUAL 2008

250 SX-F

250 XC-F, XCF-W

250 EXC-F, EXC-F SIX DAYS

3211228en

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IMPORTANT INFORMATION »

INTENDED PURPOSE

KTM sports motorcycles are designed and constructed to resist the usual wear and tear of normal use in

competitions.

The motorcycles comply with the regulations and categories currently in effect with the leading interna-

tional motorcycle associations.

The SX-F and XC-F models are prohibited on public roads.

„On the road“ approved models are only allowed on public roads in the original homologated (throttled)

version. Without this performance restriction (i.e. de-throttled), these models are only allowed to be driven

off-road and not on public roads.

The EXC-F models are designed for off-road sports endurance competitions(enduro) and not suitable for

predominant motocross use.

OWNER’S MANUAL

Please read this manual carefully and completely before going on your first ride. It contains a great deal

of information and advice which will help you use and handle your bike properly. Only by doing so will

you learn how to tune your motorcycle to your specific needs and how to protect yourself against injury.

Besides, this manual contains important information on motorcycle maintenance.

In your own interest, please pay particular attention to notices that are marked as follows:

– Ignoring these instructions can be dangerous to life and limb!

– Ignoring these instructions may damage parts of the motorcycle or impair the motorcycle's

traffic safety!

At the time this manual was typeset, it was up-to-date with the latest state of this production series. It

cannot be completely ruled out, however, that minor discrepancies may exist resulting from further design

upgrades of these motorcycles.This manual is an important part of your motorcycle and should be passed

on to any subsequent owner in case you decide to sell it.

SERVICE

Observance of the service, maintenance and tuning instructions for the engine and chassis specified in

the Owner's Manual is a prerequisite for faultless operation and the avoidance of premature wear. An

improperly tuned chassis can lead to damage and breakage of the chassis components (see chapter on

checking the basic chassis setting).

The use of the motorcycle under extreme conditions, e.g. on extremely muddy and wet terrain, can lead

to higher than average wear on components such as the drive train or the brakes. In this case it may

become necessary to service or replace wear parts before the service limit specified in the maintenance

schedule has been reached.

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IMPORTANT INFORMATION »

The service work specified in the "Lubrication and Maintenance Schedule" must be performed by a KTM

workshop and recorded in the service manual otherwise claims under the warranty shall become void. The

fuels and lubricants specified in the Owner's Manual or automotive fluids with equivalent specifications

must be used in accordance with the maintenance schedule.

Take special care to follow the recommended run in, inspection, and maintenance intervals. Heeding

these guidelines will significantly increase the life of your motorcycle.

WARRANTY

The service work specified in the "Lubrication and Maintenance Schedule" must be performed by a KTM

workshop and recorded in the service manual otherwise claims under the warranty shall become void.

No claims can be filed under the warranty for damage or consequential damage caused by manipulations

or conversions to the motorcycle.

AUTOMOTIVE FLUIDS

The fuels and lubricants specified in the Owner's Manual or automotive fluids with equivalent specifica-

tions must be used in accordance with the maintenance schedule.

SPARE PARTS, ACCESSORIES

For your own safety, use KTM-approved parts and accessories only. KTM is not liable for damage that

arises in connection with the use of other products.

TRANSPORT

When transporting your motorcycle, secure it with elastic straps or other mechanical devices in an upright

position. Be sure that the fuel tap is closed. If the motorcycle topples over, fuel can flow out of the car-

buretor or fuel tank

ENVIRONMENT

Offroad-Motorcycle driving is a wonderful sport and we hope that you will be able to enjoy it to the full.

It may, however, involve potential problems for the environment or lead to conflicts with others. These

problems or conflicts can be avoided if the motorcycle is used responsibly. To safeguard the future of

motorcycle sports, make sure that you use the motorcycle in accordance with the law, show that you are

environmentally conscious and respect the rights of others.

Enjoy driving your motorcycle !

KTM-SPORTMOTORCYCLE AG

5230 MATTIGHOFEN, AUSTRIA

Attachments: Spare parts manual chassis & engine

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TABLE OF CONTENTS »

INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

IMPORTANT INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

SERIAL NUMBER LOCATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Engine number, engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Chassis number . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

OPERATION INSTRUMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Clutch lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Hot start lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Hand brake lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Short circuit button . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Combination switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Headlamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Flasher switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Starter button . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Emergency OFF switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Indicator lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Electronic speedometer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Activating and deactivating display modes . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Setting the clock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Overview of the electronic speedometer functions . . . . . .11

Filler cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Fuel tap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Choke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Shift lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Kickstarter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Foot brake pedal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Side stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Steering lock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Compression damping of fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Rebound damping of fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Compression damping of shock absorber . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Rebound damping of shock absorber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Engine characteristic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

GENERAL TIPS AND WARNINGS FOR STARTING THE MOTORCYCLE .16

Instructions for initial operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Running in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Check the following before each start . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Starting when the engine is cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Starting when the engine is warm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

What to do when the engine is „flooded“ . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Starting off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Shifting/Riding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Braking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Stopping and parking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE . . . . . . .24

Changing the spring preloading of the shock absorber . . .24

Pivot bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Basic suspension setup for the weight of the driver . . . . .25

Checking the shock absorber and spring . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Determining the static sag of the shock absorber . . . . . . .25

Determining the riding sag of the shock absorber . . . . . . .25

Checking the basic setup of the telescopic fork . . . . . . . .26

Changing the spring preload on the telescopic fork . . . . .26

Replacing fork springs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Breather plug front fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Cleaning the dust sleeves of the telescopic fork . . . . . . . .27

Checking and adjusting the steering head bearing . . . . .27

Changing the fork offset (caster) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

How to change the handlebar position . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Check chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Correct chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Adapting the chain guide to the number of rear sprocket teeth .31

Chain maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Chain wear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

General information about KTM disc brakes . . . . . . . . . .33

Adjusting the free travel at the hand brake lever . . . . . . .34

Checking the brake fluid level - front brake . . . . . . . . . . .34

Refilling the front brake fluid reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Checking the front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Replacing the front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Changing the basic position of the foot brake pedal . . . . .35

Checking the rear brake fluid level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Refilling the rear brake fluid reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Checking the rear brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Replacing the rear brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Dismounting and mounting the front wheel . . . . . . . . . . .37

Dismounting and mounting the rear wheel . . . . . . . . . . .38

Checking spoke tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Tires, air pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Check/set distance of the magnetic sensor . . . . . . . . . . .39

Replacing the battery of the digital speedometer . . . . . . .39

Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Charging the battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Fuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

Replacing headlight lamp/parking light lamp . . . . . . . . . .41

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Checking the coolant level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Bleeding the cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Replacing the glassfiber yarn packing of the silencer . . . .43

Cleaning the spark arrester . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

Cleaning the air filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Adjusting the throttle cables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Changing the original position of the clutch lever . . . . . . .45

Checking the oil level of the hydraulic clutch . . . . . . . . .45

Bleeding of the hydraulic clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45

Carburetor – Adjust idling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Basic information on carburetor wear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Checking the float level (float height) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Draining the float chamber of the carburetor . . . . . . . . . .46

Checking the engine oil level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47

Engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47

Changing the engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

Changing the oil filters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49

TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50

CLEANING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52

CONSERVATION FOR WINTER OPERATION . . . . . . . . . . . .52

STORAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52

USE AFTER A PERIOD OF STORAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52

TECHNICAL DATA – ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53

TECHNICAL DATA – CHASSIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55

WIRING DIAGRAM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57

HEAD WORD INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61

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SERIAL NUMBER LOCATIONS »

Chassis number

The chassis number is stamped on the right side of the steering head tube.

Enter this number in the field on page no 1.

Engine number, engine type

The engine number and the engine type are stamped into the left side of the

engine below the engine sprocket. Enter this number on page 1.

OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »

Clutch lever

The clutch lever [1] is located on the left side of the handlebar. The adjus-

ting screw [A] is used to change the original position of the clutch lever (see

maintenance work on chassis and engine).

The clutch is hydraulically actuated and adjusts itself automatically.

Hot start lever (SX-F)

If you pull the red hot start lever [2] during the starting procedure backward,

a bore in the carburetor will be opened through which the engine may take in

additional air. The result is a “lean“ fuel-air mixture of the type needed for

hot starts.

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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »

Hand brake lever

The hand brake lever [1] is mounted on the handlebars on the right and

actuates the front wheel brake. The adjusting screw [A] can be used to change

the basic position of the hand brake lever (see "Maintenance").

Short circuit button

The short circuit button [2] turns off the engine. When pressing this button,

the ignition circuit is short-circuited.

Combination switch

The light switch has 2, respectively 3 switch positions.

[A] = Light off (this function is not available in all models)

[B] = Low beam on

[C] = High beam on

You may use button [3] to actuate the horn.

The red short circuit button [4] serves to switch off the engine. Leave the

switch pressed until the engine stops.

Headlamp switch (XCF-W)

In this model the headlamp is switched on with the pull switch [5].

Flasher switch

The flasher switch is a separate unit and is mounted on the left portion of the

handlebar.

The wire harness is designed in a way that whenever you want to use your

bike off-road, you can dismount the entire turn indicator system without

affecting the function of the remaining electrical system.

Flasher left

Flasher right

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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »

Starter button

Pushing the red starter button [1] will actuate the E-starter.

Emergency OFF switch (EXC-F Australia)

The red emergency-OFF switch [2] is arranged adjacent to the throttle grip.

In this position, the E-starter is operational and the engine can

be started.

In this position, the E-starter and ignition circuits are

interrupted.The E-starter cannot be actuated, and the engine will

not start, not even if you attempt to start it with the kickstarter.

Pushing the black starter button [3] will actuate the E-starter.

Indicator lamps

The green control lamp [4] flashes in the same rhythm as the flash-

ing indicator when the indicator is working.

The blue control lamp [5] lights up when the high beam is on.

Electronic speedometer

The display in the electronic speedometer is activated as soon as you press

a button on the speedometer or an impulse is received from the wheel sen-

sor. The display lights up when the engine is running.

The display is cleared if no button is pressed for 1 minute or no impulse is

received from the wheel sensor.

The | button is used to change between display modes.

The + and – buttons are used to control various functions.

TEST

All of the display segments briefly light up for the display function test.

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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »

WS (wheel size)

The display changes and the circumference of the front wheel is briefly dis-

played in millimeters (2205 mm corresponds to a front wheel circumference

of 21" with production tires).

Afterwards the display will return to the previous display mode.

SPEED display mode / H (service hours)

Only the SPEED / H and SPEED / ODO display modes are activated in the

condition at delivery. SPEED/H is displayed whenever the display is activated

and the front wheel is not turning. It automatically changes to the SPEED/ODO

display mode as soon as the front wheel starts turning.

SPEED displays the speed.

H displays the engine's service hours. The service hour counter starts to count

as soon as you start the engine. The displayed figure cannot be changed.

Service intervals are indicated in service hours for some KTM offroad motor-

cycles, making the service hour counter a very practical function.

SPEED / ODO display mode (odometer)

The SPEED/ODO mode displays the speed and the total distance traveled.

The display automatically changes to the SPEED/H display mode when the

front wheel stops turning.

+ button

no function

– button

briefly press | button changes to the next display mode

hold | button 3 secs. changes to the next display mode

The electronic speedometer has a number of display modes (functions) that

you can also activate (reveal) (see: Activating and deactivating display modes).

Activating and deactivating display modes

In the display mode SPEED/H, press and hold the | button for 3 seconds to

access the SETUP menu. The active functions will be displayed. The blink-

ing function can be activated by pressing the + button and deactivated by

pressing the – button.

Press and hold the | button 3 seconds to store the settings.

If no button is pressed for 20 seconds, the setting will be stored automati-

cally and the display will return to the SPEED/H mode.

+ button

activates the blinking display

deactivates the blinking display

– button

briefly press | button changes to the next display without changing any

settings

hold | button 3 secs. starts the SETUP

stores the settings and changes to the SPEED/H

mode

The following display modes can be activated:

TR1

TR2

tripmaster 1

tripmaster 2

average speed 1

average speed 2

stop watch 1

stop watch 2

clock

lap time

CLK

LAP

KMH/MPH

display in kilometers or miles (see: Kilometers or miles)

If you have activated all of the display modes, they will be displayed in the

following order:

SPEED/H, SPEED/CLK, SPEED/LAP, LAP/LAP, SPEED/ODO, SPEED/TR1,

SPEED/TR2, SPEED/A1, SPEED/A2, SPEED/S1, SPEED/S2

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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »

SPEED / CLK (time) display mode

CLK displays the time in hours, minutes and seconds.

+ button

no function

– button

briefly press | button changes to the next display mode

hold | button 3 secs. set the clock menu

To set the clock, see „Setting the clock“.

SPEED / LAP (lap time) display mode

You can use the manual stop watch to stop and store up to 10 lap times,

which you can view in the LAP/LAP display mode (see below).

LAP displays the lap times in hours, minutes and seconds.

+ button

Starts and stops the stop watch, lap time is not

reset to 0

– button

Stops the stop watch, stores the lap time and restarts

the stop watch again. The time is reset to 0. A total

of 10 lap times can be stored. If the lap time con-

tinues to run after you press the - button, all 10 mem-

ory locations are occupied.To clear all of the stored

lap times, hold the | button for 3 seconds in the

SPEED/LAP mode.Up to 10 lap times can be stored

in this way.

briefly press | button Changes to the next display mode.If no lap time is

stored or the motorcycle is driving, the LAP/LAP

mode will be skipped.

hold | button 3 secs. Clears all LAP figures

LAP / LAP display mode (to view lap times)

The LAP/LAP display mode will only be shown if lap times have been stored

and the front wheel has stopped. It will display the lap number and the

stopped lap time in hours, minutes and seconds. Press the + button to access

the next lap time.

To clear all of the stored lap times, hold the | button for 3 seconds in the

SPEED/LAP mode.

+ button

changes to the next lap time

no function

– button

briefly press | button changes to the next display mode

hold | button 3 secs. changes to the next display mode

SPEED / TR1 display mode (tripmaster 1)

The TR1 tripmaster is always active and counts to 999.9. It is used to meas-

ure the length of a trip or the distance between 2 refueling stops.

TR1 is linked to A1 (average speed 1). The calculation of these figures is acti-

vated by the first impulse received from the wheel sensor (when the front wheel

starts to turn) and stops 3 seconds after the last impulse is received (when

the front wheel has stopped).

The TR1, A1 and S1 figures are automatically cleared after passing 999.9.

+ button

no function

– button

briefly press | button changes to the next display mode

hold | button 3 secs. clears the TR1, S1, A1 figures

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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »

SPEED / TR2 display mode (tripmaster 2)

The tripmaster 2 is always active and counts to 999.9. Contrary to TR1, the

displayed figure can be changed using the + and – buttons. This is a very use-

ful function for trips taken according to a roadbook.

+ button

increases the TR2 figure

decreases the TR2 figure

– button

briefly press | button changes to the next display mode

hold | button 3 secs. clears the TR2 figure

SPEED / A1 display mode (average speed 1)

A1 shows the average speed based on the TR1 (tripmaster 1) and S1 (stop

watch 1) figures. The calculation of this figure is activated by the first impulse

received from the wheel sensor and stops 3 seconds after the last impulse is

received.

+ button

no function

– button

briefly press | button changes to the next display mode

hold | button 3 secs. clears the TR1, S1, A1 figures

SPEED / A2 display mode (average speed 2)

A2 shows the average speed based on the TR2 (tripmaster 2) and S2 (stop

watch 2) figures.

The displayed figure can deviate from the actual average speed if the TR2

figure was changed manually or if S2 was not stopped after the trip.

+ button

no function

– button

briefly press | button changes to the next display mode

hold | button 3 secs. changes to the next display mode

SPEED / S1 display mode (stop watch 1)

S1 shows the traveling time based on TR1 and continues to run whenever it

receives impulses from the wheel sensor. The calculation of this figure is acti-

vated by the first impulse received from the wheel sensor and stops 3 sec-

onds after the last impulse is received.

+ button

no function

– button

briefly press | button changes to the next display mode

hold | button 3 secs. clears the TR1, S1, A1 figures

SPEED / S2 display mode (stop watch 2)

S2 is a manual stop watch. Start the stop watch by pressing the + button,

press again to hold. Press again to continue timing.

Press the | button to change to the next mode. The S2 display will blink in

the other modes if S2 continues to run in the background. To stop S2, return

to the SPEED/S2 mode and press the + button.

+ button

starts and stops the stop watch

no function

– button

briefly press | button changes to the next display mode

hold | button 3 secs. clears the S2 figure

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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »

Kilometers or miles

The unit (kilometers or miles) can also be changed. The ODO figure will be

retained and converted accordingly. The TR1, A1, S1, TR2 and A2 figures

will be cleared.

To select the unit, select the SPEED/H mode and hold the | button for 3 sec-

onds to access the SETUP menu. Press the | button until the KMH/MPH

function blinks. Press the + button briefly to move to the options. Press the

+ button for KMH or the – button for MPH.

To set, briefly press the | button 1 x and hold for 3 seconds until the dis-

play returns to the SPEED/H mode.

If no button is pressed for 20 seconds, the setting will be stored automati-

cally and the display will return to the SPEED/H mode.

+ button

to access the menu

to activate the KMH display

to activate the MPH display

– button

briefly press | button changes to the next mode

changes from the menu to the SETUP menu

hold | button 3 secs. stores and closes the SETUP menu

Setting the clock

To set the clock, switch the ignition off and select the SPEED/CLK mode. Press

and hold the | button for 3 seconds. The blinking digits can be changed

using the + and - buttons. Press the | button to move to the next digit. 0-

12 will show the time in the 12-hour mode, 0-24 in the 24-hour mode.

Press and hold the | button for 3 seconds to store the settings.

If no button is pressed for 20 seconds, the settings will be stored automati-

cally and the display will return to the SPEED/CLK mode.

+ button

time +

time -

– button

briefly press | button changes to the next digit

hold | button 3 secs. starts the SETUP menu

stores the time and changes to the SPEED/CLK dis-

play mode

OVERVIEW OF THE ELECTRONIC SPEEDOMETER FUNCTIONS

display

SPEED / H

SPEED / CLK

briefly press + button

no function

briefly press – button

no function

briefly press | button

next display mode

hold | button 3 secs.

displays the SETUP menu

Setting the clock menu

no function

starts/stops LAP without

clearing LAP figure

stops LAP, stores LAP

figure, resets LAP to 0

SPEED / LAP

next display mode

clears all LAP figures

LAP / LAP

SPEED / ODO

SPEED / TR1

SPEED / TR2

SPEED / A1

SPEED / A2

SPEED / S1

SPEED / S2

next figure

no function

next display mode

clears TR1, S1, A1

clears TR2

increases the TR2 figure reduces the TR2 figure

no function

clears TR1, S1, A1

next display mode

clears TR1, S1, A1

clears S2

no function

starts - stops S2

If the CLK, LAP, TR1, TR2 A1, A2, S1 and S2 figures are suddenly cleared, the battery in the electronic speedometer is empty and

must be replaced (see: Replacing the battery in the electronic speedometer).

A tripmaster switch is available as an accessory that lets you control the electronic speedometer functions from the handlebar.

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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »

Filler cap

To open the filler cap: Press the release button [1] and turn the tank cap in a

counterclockwise direction.

To close the filler cap: Put the tank cap back on and turn in a clockwise direc-

tion until the release button snaps into place.

Install the tank breather hose [2] without kinks.

Fuel tap (SX-F)

OFF In this position the fuel tap is closed. No fuel can flow to the

carburetor.

ON During operation the twist grip must be turned to ON. This means that

the fuel can flow to the carburetor.

OFF

Fuel tap (XC-F, XCF-W, EXC-F)

OFF In this position the fuel tap is closed. No fuel can flow to the

carburetor.

ON During operation the twist grip must be turned to ON. This means that

the fuel can flow to the carburetor. With the twist grip in this position

the tank will be emptied until only the reserve is left.

RES The reserve tank cannot be tapped until the rotating handle is turned

to the RES position. Fill the tank as soon as possible and remember to

turn the rotating handle back to the ON position so that you will have

backup fuel next time, too.

Reserve . . . . . . . . . .2.0 l (0.6 US gallons)

Choke (SX-F, XC-F, XCF-W)

If you pull the choke button [3] out as far as possible, a bore in the carbure-

tor will be opened through which the engine may take in additional fuel. The

result is a “fat“ fuel-air mixture of the type needed for cold starts.

To deactivate the choke, push the choke button back into its basic position.

Choke (EXC-F)

If you press the choke lever towards the handlebar [4], a bore in the carbu-

retor is opened through which the engine can take in additional fuel. The result

is a "rich" fuel-air mixture of the type needed for cold starts. The amount of

fuel and thus the engine speed is determined by the position of the choke

lever.

To close the bore, press the choke lever away from the handlebar.

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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »

Shift lever

The shift lever is mounted on the left side of the engine. The position of the

gears is shown in the illustration. Neutral, or the idle speed, is located

between first and second gear.

2,3,4 (5,6)

Kickstarter

The kickstarter is mounted on the right side of the engine. Its upper part can

be swivelled.

Foot brake pedal

The foot brake pedal is located in front of the right footrest. Its basic position

can be adjusted to your seat position (see maintenance work).

Side stand

Push the side stand to the ground with your foot and load it with the motor-

cycle. Make sure that you put your bike on solid ground and in a secure posi-

tion. For off-road riding, you can use the rubber band [1] to additionally secure

the center stand in its folded-up position

Steering lock

The handlebar can be locked by means of the lock located on the steering

head. To lock it, turn handlebar all the way to the right, insert key, turn it to

left, press it in, turn it to right, and remove it.

Never leave the key inserted in the steering lock. If you turn the handlebar to

the left the key could get damaged.

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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »

Compression damping of fork (SX-F, XC-F)

Hydraulic compression damping determines the reaction when the fork is com-

pressed. The degree of compression can be adjusted with adjusting

screws at the top of the fork legs.

Turn the adjusting screws [1] clockwise to increase damping, turn it counter-

clockwise to reduce damping during compression.

STANDARD ADJUSTMENT

– turn adjusting screw clockwise as far as it will go

– turn it back by as many clicks as are specified for the relevant type of fork

WP 14.18.7D.03 . . . . . . 14 clicks

WP 14.18.7D.28 . . . . . . 20 clicks

Rebound damping of fork (SX-F, XC-F)

Hydraulic rebound damping determines the reaction when the fork is

rebound. Remove the protecting cap [2].

By turning the adjusting screw [3], the degree of damping of the rebound can

be adjusted. Turn the knob clockwise to increase damping, turn it counter-

clockwise to reduce damping during rebounding.

STANDARD ADJUSTMENT

– turn adjusting screw clockwise as far as it will go

– turn it back by as many clicks as are specified for the relevant type of fork

WP 14.18.7D.03 . . . . . . 21 clicks

WP 14.18.7D.28 . . . . . . 21 clicks

Compression damping of fork (XCF-W, EXC-F, EXC-F Six Days)

Hydraulic compression damping determines the reaction when the fork is com-

pressed. The degree of compression can be adjusted with adjusting

screws at the bottom of the fork legs.Remove the protecting cap [4].

Turn the adjusting screws [5] clockwise to increase damping, turn it counter-

clockwise to reduce damping during compression.

STANDARD ADJUSTMENT

– turn adjusting screw clockwise as far as it will go

– turn it back by as many clicks as are specified for the relevant type of fork

WP 14.18.7D.04 . . . . . . 22 clicks

WP 14.18.7D.34 . . . . . .24 clicks

Rebound damping of fork (XCF-W, EXC-F, EXC-F Six Days)

Hydraulic rebound damping determines the reaction when the fork is

rebound. By turning the adjusting screw [6], the degree of damping of the

rebound can be adjusted. Turn the knob clockwise to increase damping, turn

it counterclockwise to reduce damping during rebounding.

STANDARD ADJUSTMENT

– turn adjusting screw clockwise as far as it will go

– turn it back by as many clicks as are specified for the relevant type of fork

WP 14.18.7D.04 . . . . . . 20 clicks

WP 14.18.7D.34 . . . . . .22 clicks

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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »

Compression damping of shock absorber

The shock absorber on these models can synchronize the compression damp-

ing in the low and high-speed range separately (Dual Compression Control).

Low and high speed refers to the movement of the shock absorber during com-

pression and not to the speed of the motorcycle.

The low and high-speed technology overlaps.

The low-speed setting is primarily for slow to normal shock absorber compres-

sion rates.

The high-speed setting is effective at fast compression rates.

Turning in a clockwise direction will increase the damping, turning

counterclockwise will decrease the damping.

STANDARD LOW-SPEED SETTING:

– turn the adjusting screw [1] to the limit in a clockwise direction using a

screwdriver .

– unscrew the respective number of clicks for the specific type of shock absorber

in a counterclockwise direction.

WP 12.18.7D.03 . . . . . . 14 clicks

WP 12.18.7D.28 . . . . . . 15 clicks

WP 12.18.7D.04 . . . . . . 15 clicks

WP 12.18.7D.34 . . . . . . 15 clicks

STANDARD HIGH-SPEED SETTING:

– turn the adjusting screw [2] to the limit in a clockwise direction using a

box wrench.

– unscrew the respective number of turns for the specific type of shock absorber

in a counterclockwise direction.

WP 12.18.7D.03 . . . . . . . 1 clicks

WP 12.18.7D.28 . . . . . . . 1 clicks

WP 12.18.7D.04 . . . . . 1.5 clicks

WP 12.18.7D.34 . . . . . 1.5 clicks

The damping unit of the shock absorber is filled with high-compression nitro-

gen. Never try to take the shock absorber apart or to do any maintenance work

yourself. Severe injuries could be the result.

Never unscrew the black screw connection [3] (24mm).

Rebound damping of shock absorber

By using the adjusting screw [4], the degree of damping of the rebound can

be adjusted. Turn the knob clockwise to increase damping, turn it counter-

clockwise to reduce damping during rebounding.

STANDARD ADJUSTMENT:

– turn the adjusting screw clockwise to the stop.

– then turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise, counting the number of

clicks that corresponds to the respective type of shock absorber.

WP 12.18.7D.03 . . . . . .23 clicks

WP 12.18.7D.28 . . . . . .23 clicks

WP 12.18.7D.04 . . . . . .24 clicks

WP 12.18.7D.34 . . . . . .22 clicks

The damping unit of the shock absorber is filled with high-compression nitro-

gen. Never try to take the shock absorber apart or to do any maintenance work

yourself. Severe injuries could be the result.

Never unscrew the black screw connection [5] (15mm).

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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »

Engine characteristic (EXC-F)

The CDI unit is pre-programmed with 2 ignition curves (Performance and Soft).

The Performance ignition curve (higher engine performance) is activated when

the socket connector [1] is connected, the Soft ignition curve (improved dri-

veability) when it is disconnected.

Homologated models driven on public roads must be operated with a discon-

nected socket connector, otherwise the type approval will be cancelled.

GENERAL TIPS AND WARNINGS FOR STARTING THE MOTORCYCLE »

Instructions for initial operation

– Make sure the work for the „pre-delivery inspection“ was per-

– Wear suitable clothing when driving a motorcycle. Clever KTM

drivers always wear a helmet, boots, gloves and a jacket, regard-

less of whether driving all day or just for a short trip. The

protective clothing should be brightly colored so that other

vehicles can see you as early as possible.

– Do not drive after having consumed alcohol.

– Only use accessories recommended by KTM. For example,

front panelling can impair the driving properties of the motor-

cycle. Cases, extra tanks, etc. can alter the weight distribu-

tion and thus also impair the vehicles driving properties.

– The front and rear wheel may only be fitted with tires that

have the same profile type.

– Be sure to check the spoke tension after driving for 30 minu-

tes. The spoke tension on new tires decreases rapidly. If you

continue to drive with loose spokes, the spokes may tear and

lead to unstable handling (see "Checking the spoke ten-

sion").

– The above mentioned models are designed are designed and

dimensioned for 1 person only. Never take another rider

along.

– Observe the traffic regulations, drive defensively and try to

look ahead as far as possible so that any hazards can be rec-

ognized as early as possible.

– Adjust your driving speed according to the conditions and

your driving skills.

– Drive carefully on unknown roads or on unfamiliar trials.

– When driving off-road, always have a friend on a second motor-

cycle to keep you company, so that you can help each other

should difficulties arise.

– Replace the helmet visor or goggle lens when scratched or

damaged. if bright light shines through a scratched visor or

lens, the operator will be blinded.

formed by your authorized KTM workshop. The DELIVERY

CERTIFICATE and SERVICE MANUAL will be handed over

when you pick up your vehicle.

– Read these operating instructions carefully before your first ride.

– Familiarize yourself with the operating elements.

– Set the clutch lever, the handbrake lever, and the footbrake

pedal to the positions that are most convenient for you.

– Get used to handling the motorcycle on an empty parking lot

or open space, before starting on a longer drive. Also try to drive

as slowly as possible and in a standing position, to improve

your feeling for the vehicle.

– Do not drive along off-road tracks which go beyond your abitily

and experience.

– Hold the handlebars with both hands and leave your feet on

the foot rests while driving.

– Remove your foot from the foot brake lever when you are not

braking. If the foot brake lever is not released the brake

pads rub continuously and the braking system is

overheated.

– Do not make any alterations to the motorcycle and always use

ORIGINAL KTM SPARE PARTS. Spare parts from other man-

ufacturers can impair the safety of the motorcycle.

– Motorcycles are sensitive to alterations in the distribution of

weight. If you are taking luggage with you, this should be

secured as close as possible to the middle of the vehicle; dis-

tribute the weight evenly between the front and rear wheel. Never

exceed the maximum permissible laden weight and the axle

weights. The maximum permissible laden weight is comprised

of the following components:

– Motorcycle ready for operation and tank full

– Luggage

– Driver with protective clothing and helmet.

– Never leave your motorcycle without supervision if the engine

is running.

– Pay attention to the running-in procedure.

– Only 250 EXC-F models are approved for use on public roads

and motorways.

– When riding your motorcycle, please bear in mind that other

people may feel molested by excessive noise.

Running in

Even very precisely machined sections of engine components have

rougher surfaces than components which have been sliding across

one another for quite some time. Therefore, every engine needs to

be broken in.

For this reason, do not load the engine more than 50% of its capac-

ity during the first 3 operating hours. Besides, the engine speed

must not exceed 7000 rpm. Avoid going full-throttle!

In the following 12 operating hours, you may load the engine up

to 75% of its capacity. Use the motorcycle on various types of ter-

rain (road, easy off-road trails).

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DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS »

Check the following before each start

When you start off, the motorcycle must be in perfect technical condition.

For safety reasons, you should make a habit of performing an overall check

of your motorcycle before each start.

The following checks should be performed:

CHECK THE OIL LEVEL

Insufficient oil results in premature wear and consequently to engine

damage.

FUEL

Check that there is sufficient fuel in the tank; when closing the filler cap,

check that the tank venting hose is free of kinks.

CHAIN

A loose chain can fall from the chain wheels; an extremely worn chain can

tear, and insufficient lubrication can result in unnecessary wear to the chain

and chain wheels. Excessive tensioning of the chain will put additional

load on the components of the secondary drivetrain (chain, bearings of

transmission and rear wheel). Aside from resulting in premature wear, if

worst comes to worst the chain may rupture or the countershaft of the

transmission may break.

TIRES

Check for damaged tires. Tires showing cuts or dents must be replaced.

The tread depth must comply with the legal regulations. Also check the

air pressure. Insufficient tread and incorrect air pressure deteriorate the

driving performance.

BRAKES

Check correct functioning of the braking system. Check for sufficient

brake fluid in the reservoir. The reservoirs have been designed in such a

way that brake fluid does not need to be refilled even when the brake pads

are worn. If the level of brake fluid falls below the minimum value, this

indicates a leak in the braking system or completely worn out brake pads.

Arrange for the braking system to be checked by a KTM specialist, as com-

plete failure of the braking system can be avoided.

Also check the state of the brake hose and the thickness of the brake

linings.

Check free travel at the hand brake lever and foot brake lever.

If the resistance on the hand brake lever or foot brake lever feels unrespon-

sive, something is wrong with the brake system. Have the brake system

inspected at an authorized KTM workshop before you drive the motorcycle.

CABLES

Check correct setting and easy running of all control cables.

COOLING FLUID

Check the level of the cooling fluid when the engine is cold.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Check correct functioning of headlamps, tail-lights, brake lights, indica-

tors, control lamps and horn while the engine is running.

LUGGAGE

If you are taking luggage with you, check that this is securely fastened.

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DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS »

Starting when the engine is cold

Open the fuel tap [1].

Swing up the side stand or center stand.

Put the gear in neutral.

Operate the choke [2].

Leave throttle closed and kick the kickstarter briskly ALL THE WAY or actu-

ate the E-starter.

– If you want to start the engine, make sure that you always put on sturdy

motorcycle boots in order to avoid injuries. You might slip off the kick-

starter, or the engine may kick back and propel your foot upward with great

force.

– Always kick the kickstarter briskly all the way without opening the throt-

tle. If you do not Kick hard enought, with an open throttle grip, the kick-

back hazard will be higher.

– Do not start the engine and allow it to idle in a closed area. Exhaust fumes

are poisonous and can cause loss of consciousness and death. Always pro-

vide adequate ventilation while the engine is running.

– Always verify that the transmission has been set to idle (neutral) before

actuating the starter button. If you start the motorcycle with a gear engaged,

the motorcycle will move forward.

– Maximal period for continuous starting: 5 seconds. Wait at least 5 sec-

onds before trying again.

– Don’t ride your motorcycle with full load and don’t rev up the engine when

cold because the piston is warming up faster than the water cooled cylin-

der and can cause engine damage.

NOTE: If you have trouble starting the motorcycle, this could be due to old

fuel in the float chamber. The easily inflammable components of the new fuels

evaporate during longer periods of standstill.When the motorcycle has been

out of operation for more than a week, it is therefore recommended to drain

the old fuel from the float chamber. The engine will immediately start off when

the float chamber is filled with new fuel.

Starting when the engine is warm

Open the fuel tap [1].

Swing up the side stand.

Put the gear in neutral.

Leave throttle closed and kick the kickstarter briskly ALL THE WAY or actuate the E-starter.

What to do when the engine is „flooded“

Unscrew the spark plug and dry it.

NOTE:

The carburetor has an accelerator pump. Every time you open the throttle, fuel will be injected into the intake passage. When starting,

be sure that you open the throttle completely only once.

Starting off

Pull the clutch lever. Put the engine into first gear, slowly release the clutch lever and open the throttle at the same time.

Before you start off, check that the side stand has been swung up fully. If the stand drags on the ground, the motorcycle can go out of

control.

Shifting/Riding

You are now in first gear, refered to as the drive or uphill gear. Depending on the conditions (traffic, hill size, etc.), you can shift to a

higher gear. Close throttle, at the same time pull clutch lever in and shift to the next higher gear. Let clutch lever go again and accel-

erate. If you turned on the choke, make sure you turn it off again as soon as engine is warm.

When you reach full speed through opening the throttle all the way, turn throttle back to 3/4; the speed hardly decreases although the

engine will use less gas. Only give as much gas as the engine can handle. Through quick and high revving of the throttle, the fuel usage

increases.

By shifting down, use the brakes if necessary and close the throttle at the same time. Pull the clutch lever and shift down to the next

gear. Let clutch lever go slowly and open the throttle or shift down again.

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DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS »

NOTE: dedicated to nothing but offroad racing, these models make

no compromises in their design. As such, they do not include any

radiator fan, and the size of the radiator is dimensioned for opti- Motorcycle engines produce a great amount of heat while running.

mum ergonomics.

In normal racing, the cooling system is sufficient.

If you use your motorbike in other conditions, please note that:

The engine, exhaust pipe, muffler, brake rotors, and shock absorbers

can become very hot. Do not touch any of these parts after operating

the motorcycle, and take care to park it where pedestrians are not

the E-starter allows you to start every model accept SX-F again at likely to touch it and get burned.

any time. Therefore, turn off the engine if you intend to run your

motorcycle in idle or at a standstill for longer periods of time (more

than 2 minutes).

– Never use the hand decompression lever to turn off the engine.

Avoid letting the clutch slip frequently and for extended periods.

This would cause the engine oil to heat up, thereby heating up the

cooling system. You should drive at low speeds (4-stroke style -

letting the engine pull you) and not at high speeds not by letting

the clutch slip (2-stroke style).

Use the short-circuit button or the emergency-off button instead.

– Close the fuel tap when leaving your vehicle.Otherwise the car-

burettor can flood and fuel will enter the engine.

– Never park your motorcycle in places where there are fire haz-

ards due to dry grass or other easily flammable materials.

– After falling with the motorcycle, check all functions thoroughly

before starting up operations again.

– A twisted handlebar must always be replaced. Do not adjust

the handlebar, it will lose stability.

– High rpm rates when the engine is cold have an adverse effect

on the life of your engine. We recommend you run the engine

in a moderate rpm range for a few miles giving it a chance to

warm up. After that no further precautions in this respect need

to be taken. The engine has reached its operating temperature

as soon as the radiators become warm.

– Never have the throttle wide open when changing down to a

lower gear. The engine will over-rev, damaging the valves. In NOTE REGARDING THE SIDE STAND:

addition, the rear wheel locks so that the motorcycle can eas- Use your foot to kick side stand forward up to the stop and lean

ily get out of control.

the motorcycle sideways. Make sure that the ground is solid and

– If any abnormal vibrations occur while driving, check that the that your motorcycle is standing securely. Just in case, you can

engine fastening bolts are tight.

shift into first gear.

– In the event that, while riding on your motorcycle, you notice

any unusual operation-related noise, stop immediately, turn the

engine off, and contact an authorized KTM dealer.

The side stand is designed to bear only the load of the motorcycle.

The side stand and/or the frame can be damaged and the motor-

cycle can fall over if you mount the motor-cycle, thus putting an

additional load on the side stand.

Braking

Close throttle and apply the hand and foot brakes at the same time.

When driving on sandy, wet or slippery ground use mainly the rear

wheel brake. Always brake with feeling, blocking wheels can cause

Fuel

you to skid or fall. Always finish braking before you enter a curve. The engine needs unleaded fuel with at least RON 95 (USA =

Also change down to lower gears depending on your speed.

When driving down hill, use the braking effect of the engine.

Change down one or two gears but do not overspeed the engine.

Premium PON 91).

In this way, you will not need to brake so much and the brakes will Use leaded or unleaded premium grade gasoline (95 octanes). Never

not overheat.

use gasoline having less than 95 octanes because it may damage

the engine.

– In case of rain, after washing the motorcycle, after rides through

water and in case of rides on wet off-road tracks, humid or dirty Gasoline is highly flammable and poisonous. Extreme caution should

brake discs can delay the braking effect. The brakes must be be used when handling gasoline. Do not refuel the motorcycle near

pulled until they are dry or clean.

Rides on salt-strewed or dirty roads can also delay the braking effect. refuelling. Be careful not to spill gasoline on the engine or exhaust

The brakes must be pulled until they are clean. pipe while the engine is hot. Wipe up spills promptly. If gasoline is

open flames or burning cigarettes. Always switch off the engine before

–

– Dirty brake discs cause increased tear of brake pads and brake swallowed or splashed in the eyes, seek a doctor’s advice immedi-

discs.

ately.

– When you brake, the brake discs, brake pads, brake caliper and

brake fluid heat up. The hotter these parts get, the weaker the Fuel expands when its temperature rises. Therefore do not fill the

breaking effect. In extreme cases, the entire braking system tank to the top (see fig.).

can fail.

– If the resistance in the hand brake lever or foot brake pedal

feels “spongy” (too much play), this is an indication that some-

thing is wrong with the brake system. Don’t ride your motorcy-

cle anymore without first having the brake system looked over

by a KTM dealer.

35 mm

Stopping and parking

Apply the brakes fully and put the engine into neutral. To turn off

the engine, push the short-circuit button or the emergency-OFF

button with the engine at idling speed until the engine stops. Turn

the fuel tap to the OFF position, park on an area where the ground

is firm, and lock the motorcycle.

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PERIODIC MAINTENANCE »

1st service

after 3 hours

or 20 l fuel

every

20 hours

or 140 l fuel

or 1 race

250 SX-F/XC-F 2008

A CLEAN MOTORCYCLE CAN BE CHECKED MORE QUICKLY WHICH SAVES MONEY!

Change engine oil, oil filter

Clean oil screen and drain plug magnet

Replace spark plug (after 30 hours)

Check and adjust valve clearance

Check engine mounting bolts for tightness

Clean the spark-plug connector and check for a tight fit

Check the screws on the kick starter and shift lever for a tight fit

Check carburetor connection boot for cracks and leaks

Check idle speed setting

Check vent hoses for damage or bends

Check cooling system for leaks, check quantity of antifreeze

Check exhaust system for leaks and fitment

Check cables for damage, smooth operation and bends,

adjust and lubricate

Check fluid level of the clutch master cylinder

Clean air filter and filter box

Check electric wires for damage and bends

Check headlamp setting

Check function of electric systems (low high beam, brake light, indicator lamps,

speedometer illumination, horn, emergency OFF switch or button

Check brake fluid level, lining thickness, brake discs

Check brake lines for damage and leaks

Check/function smooth operation and adjust free travel of handbrake/foot brake lever

Check the screws and guide bolts on the brake system for a tight fit

Check shock absorber and fork for leaks and function

Clean fork dust bellows

Bleed fork legs

Check swing arm bearings

Check/adjust steering head bearings

Check tightness of chassis screws (triple clamps, fork leg axle passage,

swingarm, shock aborber)

Check/adjust steering head bearings

Check tires and air pressure

Check chain, chain joint, rear sprockets and chain guides for wear, fit and tension

Lubricate chain, clean and grease the adjusting screws on the chain tensioner

Check clearance of wheel bearings

250 SX-F/XC-F 2008

ADDITIONAL SERVICE WORK THAT MUST BE PERFORMED UNDER A SEPARATE ORDER

at least

once a year

every

2 years

Complete maintenance of fork

Complete maintenance of shock absorber

Clean and grease steering head bearings and gasket elements

Clean and adjust carburetor

Treat battery connections with contact grease

Treat electric contacts and switches with contact spray

Change hydraulic clutch fluid

Change brake fluid

Clean Sparkarrestor (XC-F USA)

Service intervalls should never be exceeded by more than 2 hours or 15 liters of fuel.

Maintenance work done by KTM authorised workshops is not a substitute for care and checks done by the rider.

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PERIODIC MAINTENANCE »

250 SX-F/XC-F 2008

IMPORTANT CHECKS AND MAINTENANCE TO BE CARRIED OUT BY THE RIDER

Before

each

start

After

For cross- at least

every

country

use

once

cleaning

a year

Check oil level

Check brake fluid level

Check brake pads for wear

Check lights for function

Check horn for function

Lubricate and adjust cables and nipples

Bleed fork legs regularly

Remove and clean fork dust bellows regularly

Clean and lubricate chain, check tension and adjust if necessary

Clean air filter and filter box

Check tires for pressure and wear

Check cooling fluid level

Check fuel lines for leaks

Drain and clean float chamber

Check all control elements for smooth operation

Check brake performance

Treat blank metal parts (with the exception of brake and exhaust system)

with wax-based anti corrosion agent

Treat ignition and steering locks and light switches with contact spray

Check tightness of screws, nuts and hose clamps regularly

250 SX-F/XC-F 2008

IMPORTANT INSPECTIONS OR MAINTENANCE WORK THAT MUST BE PERFORMED BY THE SPECIALIZED KTM WORKSHOP FOR COMPETITIVE

RACING / FOR HOBBY-USE (SEPARATE ORDER FOR SPECIALIZED KTM WORKSHOP)

every

hours

liter

every

hours

140

liter

every

hours

270

liter

every

hours

400

liter

every

hours

540

liter

A 100 liter fuel consumption is equivalent to approx. 15 operating hours

Check the clutch disks for wear

Check the length of the clutch springs

Check the clutch drive for indentations

Check the outer clutch hub for indentations

Check the cylinder and piston for wear

Check the groove on the piston pin retainer for wear (visual check)

Check the camshaft for wear (visual check)

Check the spring cap for wear

Check the eccentricity of the valve disk

Check the valve guides for wear

Replace the valves

Replace the valve springs

Check the function of the chain tensioner

Check the eccentricity of the crankshaft journal

Replace the conrod bearings

Check piston pin bearing

Replace the crankshaft main bearings

Check the entire transmission including the roller and bearings for wear

Check the length of the bypass valve spring

Replace the glass-fiber yarn filling in the silencer

Replace the sealing cup for the foot brake cylinder

Check the throttle slide, jet needle and main jet holder (every 50 hours)

NOTE: If the inspection establishes that permissible tolerances are exceeded, the respective components must be replaced.

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PERIODIC MAINTENANCE »

1st service

after 3 hours

or 20 l fuel

every

15 hours

or 100 l fuel

or 1 race

250 XCF-W/EXC-F 2008

A CLEAN MOTORCYCLE CAN BE CHECKED MORE QUICKLY WHICH SAVES MONEY!

Change engine oil, short and long oil filters

Clean oil screen and drain plug magnet

Check oil lines for damage or bends

Replace spark plug (after 30 hours)

Check and adjust valve clearance

Check engine mounting bolts for tightness

Clean the spark-plug connector and check for a tight fit

Check the screws on the kick starter and shift lever for a tight fit

Check carburetor connection boot for cracks and leaks

Check idle speed setting

Check vent hoses for damage or bends

Check cooling system for leaks, check quantity of antifreeze

Check exhaust system for leaks and fitment

Check cables for damage, smooth operation and bends

adjust and lubricate

Check fluid level of the clutch master cylinder

Clean air filter and filter box

Check electric wires for damage and bends

Check headlamp setting

Check function of electric systems (low high beam, brake light, indicator lamps,

speedometer illumination, horn, emergency OFF switch or button

Check brake fluid level, lining thickness, brake discs

Check brake lines for damage and leaks

Check/function smooth operation and adjust free travel of handbrake/foot brake lever

Check the screws and guide bolts on the brake system for a tight fit

Check shock absorber and fork for leaks and function

Clean fork dust bellows

Bleed fork legs

Check swing arm bearings

Check/adjust steering head bearings

Check tightness of chassis screws

(triple clamps, fork leg axle passage, swingarm, shock aborber)

Check spoke tension and rim joint

Check tires and air pressure

Check chain, chain joint, rear sprockets and chain guides for wear, fit and tension

Lubricate chain, clean and grease the adjusting screws on the chain tensioner

Check clearance of wheel bearings

250 XCF-W/EXC-F 2008

ADDITIONAL SERVICE WORK THAT MUST BE PERFORMED UNDER A SEPARATE ORDER

at least

once a year

every

2 years

Complete maintenance of fork

Complete maintenance of shock absorber

Clean and grease steering head bearings and gasket elements

Clean and adjust carburetor

Treat electric contacts and switches with contact spray

Treat battery connections with contact grease

Change hydraulic clutch fluid

Change brake fluid

Clean Sparkarrestor (XCF-W USA)

Service intervalls should never be exceeded by more than 2 hours or 15 liters of fuel.

Maintenance work done by KTM authorised workshops is not a substitute for care and checks done by the rider.

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PERIODIC MAINTENANCE »

250 XCF-W/EXC-F 2008

IMPORTANT CHECKS AND MAINTENANCE TO BE CARRIED OUT BY THE RIDER

Before

each

start

After

For cross- at least

every

country

use

once

cleaning

a year

Check oil level

Check brake fluid level

Check brake pads for wear

Check lights for function

Check horn for function

Lubricate and adjust cables and nipples

Bleed fork legs regularly

Remove and clean fork dust bellows regularly

Clean and lubricate chain, check tension and adjust if necessary

Clean air filter and filter box

Check tires for pressure and wear

Check cooling fluid level

Check fuel lines for leaks

Drain and clean float chamber

Check all control elements for smooth operation

Check brake performance

Treat blank metal parts (with the exception of brake and exhaust system)

with wax-based anti corrosion agent

Treat ignition and steering locks and light switches with contact spray

Check tightness of screws, nuts and hose clamps regularly

250 XCF-W/EXC-F 2008

IMPORTANT INSPECTIONS OR MAINTENANCE WORK THAT MUST BE PERFORMED BY THE SPECIALIZED KTM WORKSHOP FOR COMPETITIVE

RACING / FOR HOBBY-USE (SEPARATE ORDER FOR SPECIALIZED KTM WORKSHOP)

COMPETITIVE every 10 hours every 20 hours every 40 hours every 80 hours

A 100 liter fuel consumption

is equivalent to approx. 15 operating hours

RACING 70 liter

140 liter

270 liter

540 liter

HOBBY-USE every 20 hours every 40 hours

–––

every 80 hours

540 liter

140 liter

270 liter

Check the clutch disks for wear

Check the length of the clutch springs

Check the clutch drive for indentations

Check the outer clutch hub for indentations

Check the cylinder and piston for wear

Check the groove on the piston pin retainer for wear (visual check)

Check the camshaft for wear (visual check)

Check the spring cap for wear

Check the eccentricity of the valve disk

Check the valve guides for wear

Replace the valves

Replace the valve springs

Check the function of the timing chain tensioner

Check the eccentricity of the crankshaft journal

Replace the conrod bearings

Check piston pin bearing

Replace the crankshaft main bearings

Check the entire transmission including the roller and bearings for wear

Check the length of the bypass valve spring

Replace the glass-fiber yarn filling in the silencer

Replace the sealing cup for the foot brake cylinder

Check the throttle slide, jet needle and main jet holder (every 50 hours)

NOTE: If the inspection establishes that permissible tolerances are exceeded, the respective components must be replaced.

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Maintenance and adjusting work marked with an asterisk (*) requires expert skills and technical know-how. For your own safety, always

have such work performed by a specialized KTM dealer where your motorcycle will be optimally serviced by appropriately qualified,

skilled staff.

– If using a power washer, do not point the water jet at the electric components, plugs, cables, bearings, carburetor, etc. The high

pressure will cause water to penetrate into the components and can cause them to malfunction or lead to premature wear.

– When transporting your KTM, ensure that it is held upright with restraining straps or other mechanical fastening devices and that

the fuel tap is in the OFF position - if the motorcycle should fall over, no fuel can leak from the carburetor or fuel tank

– Only use special screws with an appropriate thread length supplied by KTM to fix the spoilers on the tank. Using other screws or

longer screws can cause leaks in the tank through which fuel can flow out.

– Do not use toothed washers or spring rings with the engine fastening screws, as these work into the frame parts and keep working

loose. Instead, use self-locking nuts.

– Let your motorcycle cool down before beginning any maintenance work in order to avoid getting burned.

– Dispose oils, fatty matters, filters, fuels, washing detergents etc. properly.

– Under no circumstances may used oil be disposed of in the sewage system or in the open countryside. 1 liter of used oil contam-

inates 1,000,000 liters of water.

Changing the spring preloading of the shock absorber

The spring preload can be changed by turning the adjusting ring [1]. For this

purpose, you should dismount the shock absorber and clean it thoroughly.

NOTE:

– Before changing the spring preload note down the basic setting, e.g. how

many threads are visible above the adjusting ring.

– One rotation of the adjusting ring [1] changes the spring pretension by

approximately 1 mm (0.04 in).

Loosen the clamping screw [2] and use the hook wrench contained in the

vehicle tool set to turn the adjusting ring as desired. Turning it counterclock-

wise will reduce the preload, turning it clockwise will increase the

preload.

After readjusting the clamping screw [2], tighten it to 5 Nm.

STANDARD ADJUSTMENT - SPRING PRELOAD:

WP 12.18.7D.03: 5 mm

WP 12.18.7D.04: 6 mm

WP 12.18.7D.28: 5 mm

WP 12.18.7D.34: 8 mm

Pivot bearing

The pivot bearing [3] for PDS suspension struts at the swinging fork is Teflon-

coated and must not be lubricated with either grease or other lubricants. Grease

and other lubricants cause the Teflon coat to dissolve, whereby the bearing’s

lifecycle will be reduced dramatically.

When cleaning your bike with a high-pressure cleaner, do not aim the high-

pressure spray directly at the pivot bearing.

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Basic suspension setup for the weight of the driver

To achieve maximum handling performance and to prevent the fork, shock

absorber, swing arm and frame from being damaged, the basic setup of the

suspension components must be suitable for your weight. At delivery, KTM's

offroad motorcycles are set to accommodate a driver weighing 75 - 85 kg (wear-

ing full protective clothing). If your weight exceeds or falls short of this range,

you will need to adjust the basic setup for the suspension components accord-

ingly. Minor deviations in weight can be compensated by adjusting the spring

preload. Different springs must be installed for larger deviations.

Checking the shock absorber and spring

You can establish whether or not the shock absorber spring is suitable for your

weight by checking the riding sag. The static slag must be correctly adjusted

before the riding sag can be determined.

Determining the static sag of the shock absorber

The static sag should be as close as possible to 33 mm (12.18.7D.03,

12.18.7D.28) or 35 mm (12.18.7D.04, 12.18.7D.34) Deviations of more

than 2 mm can strongly influence the motorcycle's performance.

Procedure:

– Jack up the motorcycle until the rear wheel no longer touches the ground.

– Measure the vertical distance between the rear wheel axle and a fixed point

(e.g. a mark on the side cover) and write it down as dimension A.

– Place the motorcycle on the ground again.

– Ask a helper to hold the motorcycle in vertical position.

– Measure the distance between the rear axle and the fixed point again to

establish dimension B.

– The static sag is the difference between dimensions A and B.

EXAMPLE:

Motorcycle jacked up (dimension A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .600 mm

Motorcycle on ground, unloaded (dimension B) . . . . . . . . . . . .– 565 mm

Static sag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 mm

If the static sag is lower, the spring preload of the shock absorber must be

reduced, if the static sag is higher, the spring preload must be increased. See

chapter "Changing the spring preload of the shock absorber."

Determining the riding sag of the shock absorber

– Have a helper hold the motorcycle while you sit on the bike in a normal

seating position (feet on the footrests) wearing full protective clothing and

bounce up and down a few times to allow the rear wheel suspension to

become level.

– Stay on the bike and have another person measure the distance between

the same two points and write it down as dimension C.

– The riding sag is the difference between dimensions A and C.

EXAMPLE:

Motorcycle jacked up (dimension A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .600 mm

Motorcycle on ground, loaded (dimension C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .– 500 mm

Riding sag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 mm

The riding sag should be (+/-5 mm):

12.18.7D.03: 107 mm

12.18.7D.28: 112 mm

12.18.7D.04: 105 mm

12.18.7D.34: 105 mm

If the riding sag is less, the spring is too hard (the spring rate is too high). If

the riding sag is more, the spring is too soft (the spring rate is too low).

The spring rate is written on the outside of the spring (e.g. 66/250). The type

number of the shock absorber is embossed on the bottom of the tank.

The illustrations show which spring should be installed. The standard spring

is shown in bold print.

WP12.18.7D.03, WP12.18.7D.28

WP12.18.7D.04, WP12.18.7D.34

69/250

72/250

After installing a different spring, readjust the static sag.

66/250

69/250

According to our experience, the damping rate of the compression stage can

remain unchanged. The damping rate of the rebound stage can be reduced

by a few clicks for a softer spring or increased by a few clicks for a harder

spring.

63/250

66/250

RIDERS WEIGHT INCLUSIVE GEARS IN KILOGRAM

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Checking the basic setup of the telescopic fork

The precise riding sag of the telescopic fork cannot be determined for

various reasons. Similar to the shock absorber, smaller deviations in your weight

can be compensated by adjusting the spring preload. However, if your

telescopic fork bumps frequently (hard end stop during compression), you should

install harder fork springs to avoid damaging the telescopic fork and frame.

Changing the spring preload on the telescopic fork (250 SX-F/XC-F) *

The fork legs must be partly disassembled to change the spring preload (see

WP repair manual). Pretension spacers in various thicknesses are available

(see spare parts catalog).

NOTE: WP precisely adjusts the spring pressure by inserting pretension spa-

cers. Fluctuations in production are compensated with pretension spacers in

various heights. This can cause the fork springs in the fork legs to have dif-

ferent degrees of pretension. Fork springs and pretension spacers should

always stay together

Changing the spring preload on the telescopic fork (250 XCF-W/

EXC-F/EXC-F Six Days)

The telescopic forks of these models come with a preload adjuster for easy

adjustment of the spring preload.

STANDARD-ADJUSTMENT:

– Completely unscrew the adjusting screws in a counterclockwise direction

– Screw the number of turns back in specified for your fork type in a clock-

wise direction.

WP 14.18.7D.04 . . . . . . . . . . . 2

WP 14.18.7D.34 . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Turning in a clockwise direction will increase the prestress, turning in a coun-

terclockwise direction will decrease the prestress.

Changing the spring preload will not affect the rebound damping adjustment.

Generally, if the spring preload is higher, the rebound damping should also

be set higher.

NOTE: Always turn the adjusting screws the same distance on both fork legs.

Different spring preloads on the fork legs will reduce the telescopic fork's response.

Replacing fork springs

WP14.18.7D.03/28/34

WP14.18.7D.04

If you weigh less than 75 kg or more than 85 kg, you should install the respec-

tive fork springs. The correct spring rate is shown in the illustrations. The stan-

dard spring is shown in bold print. The type number of the telescopic fork is

embossed on the fork fists.

4,6 N/mm

4,4 N/mm

4,2 N/mm

If you are uncertain which spring to use, contact your KTM workshop.

According to our experience, the damping rate of the compression stage can

remain unchanged. The damping rate of the rebound stage can be reduced

by a few clicks for a softer spring or increased by a few clicks for a harder

spring.

4,2 N/mm

4,0 N/mm

RIDERS WEIGHT INCLUSIVE GEARS IN KILOGRAM

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Breather plug front fork

After every 5 hours of use for competitive racing, slacken the breather

plugs [1] a few turns in order to relieve excess pressure from the inside of the

fork. To do this, place the motorcycle on a stand with the front wheel lifted

off the ground.

Excessive pressure in the interior of the fork can cause leaks in the fork. If

your fork is leaking, it is recommended to open the breather plugs before hav-

ing the seals replaced.

Cleaning the dust sleeves of the telescopic fork

The dust-protection bellows are to remove dust and coarse dirt particles from

the fork tube. However, after some time, dirt may also get in behind the dust-

protection bellows. If this dirt is not removed, the oil sealing rings located

behind it may start to leak.

Remove the screws [2] on the fork protector and put the dust-protection bel-

lows down. Pry the dust sleeves [3] out of the outer tubes and slide down.

Clean the dust-protection bellows, outer tubes, and fork tubes thoroughly, and

oil them thoroughly with Universal oil spray (Motorex Joker 440) or engine

oil. Then, push the dust-protection bellows into the outer tubes by hand.

Position the fork protector, mount the screws and torque to 10 Nm.

No oil may reach the front tire or the brake disks since this would consider-

ably reduce the tire's road grip and the braking effect of the front brake.

Checking and adjusting the steering head bearing *

Check steering head bearing for play periodically. To check, put the motorcy-

cle on a stand so that the front wheel is off the ground. Now try to move the

fork forward and backward. For readjusting, loosen the five pinch bolts [4]

and [6] of the top triple clamp and turn steering stem bolt clockwise [5] until

there is no more play. Don’t tighten the steering stem bolt all the way, other-

wise the bearings will be damaged. With a plastic hammer, lightly tap on the

triple clamp to release tension. Retighten the five pinch bolts

[4] SX-F, XC-F, XCF-W USA, EXC-F Six Days:

[6] SX-F, XC-F, XCF-W USA, EXC-F Six Days: Loctite 243 + 17 Nm

[4] and [6] XCF-W ZA, EXC-F: 20 Nm

17 Nm

– If the steering head bearing is not adjusted to be free of play, the motor-

cycle will exhibit unsteady driving characteristics and can get out of

control.

– Be sure to lock the thread on the pinch bolt [5] with Loctite 243.

If you drive with play in the steering head bearing for longer periods, the bear-

ings and subsequently the bearing seats in the frame will be destroyed.

The steering head bearings should be regreased at least once a year (e.g. Motorex

Long Term 2000).

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Changing the fork offset (caster) (SX-F, XC-F, XCF-W USA, EXC-F Six Days) *

The fork offset [A] in these models (center fork legs - center steering head

angle) can be set to either 18 or 20 mm. This allows you to optimize the han-

dling to match the race course.

Remove the blind screw [1] to see which offset is set. If the mark [B] is in

front, the offset is 18 mm. This setting will deliver more directional stability

on fast race courses.

If the mark [B] is in the rear as illustrated, the offset is 20 mm. This setting

will deliver better handling in curves.

The offset is set to 20 mm in the condition at delivery.

To adjust the offset, dismount the front wheel and remove the front wheel

fender.

Remove the screw on the starting number plate. Remove the clamp screws

on the hand brake cylinder and fasten the hand brake cylinder to the left fork

leg with a cable tie to keep the brake line from kinking (see illustration).

Loosen the clamp screws and take the fork legs out of the triple clamps.

Loosen the collar screw [2] on the lower triple clamp 2 turns.

Remove the blind screw [1] from the upper triple clamp, loosen the clamp

screw and upper triple clamp on the seat. Remove the O-ring [3] and the pro-

tection ring [4].

Tap gently on the lower triple clamp with a rubber hammer to loosen the steer-

ing stem [5] out of the bearing seat. Take the lower triple clamp with the steer-

ing stem out of the steering head.

Remove the collar screw from the lower triple clamp and pull out the steer-

ing stem. Thoroughly clean all parts. Turn the steering stem 180° and insert

it in the triple clamp. Apply Loctite 243 to the thread of the collar screw [2]

and turn all the way in.

– Be sure to lock the thread on the collar screw [2] with Loctite 243.

– Do not confuse the collar screw with the blind screw [1].

Grease the steering head bearing and sealing elements.

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Mount the lower triple clamp, upper steering head bearing, protection ring,

O-ring, upper triple clamp and the blind screw.

Tighten the collar screw on the lower triple clamp to 60 Nm.

Mount the fork legs and tighten the clamp screws on the lower triple clamp

to 12 Nm in 3 stages.

Adjust the steering head bearing without clearance (see: Checking and adjust-

ing the steering head support). Apply Loctite 243 to the thread of the mid-

dle clamp screw. Tighten the clamp screws on the upper triple clamp to 17

Nm in 3 stages.

The middle clamp screw must be secured with loctite 243.

Mount the front wheel fender and tighten the screws to 10 Nm.

Mount the hand brake cylinder and tighten the screws to 10 Nm.

Mount the staring number plate.

Mount the front wheel (see: Dismounting and mounting the front wheel).

Tighten all screws and nuts to the specified torques using a torque wrench.

Screws or nuts that are not tightened enough can become loose and cause

the motorcycle to go out of control while driving. Screws or nuts tightened too

firmly can damage the thread and components.

Checking the throttle cable installation

Both throttle cables must run parallel along the back of the handlebar down

to the frame. They must run directly on the right side of the frame above the

tank roller to the carburetor.

When mounting the tank, make sure the throttle cables stay on the side of

the frame and are not pressed down by the tank.

How to change the handlebar position

The handlebar position can be readjusted by 22 mm. Thus, you can put the

handlebar in the position that is the most convenient for you. The upper triple

clamp [1] includes 2 bores arranged at a distance of 15 mm (0.6 in) from

one another. The bores at the handlebar support [2] are offset from the cen-

ter by 3.5 mm (0.13 in). Accordingly, you can mount the handlebar in

4 different positions.

For this purpose, remove screws [3] of the handlebar clamps and screws [4]

of the handlebar support. Position the handlebar support, and tighten screws

[4] to 40 Nm (30 ft.lbs). Mount the handlebar and handlebar clamps, and

tighten screws [3] to 20 Nm (15 ft.lbs). The gap between the handlebar sup-

port and the handlebar clamps should be the same size in the front and in

the rear.

The screws [4] must be secured with loctite 243.

3,5 mm

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Check chain tension

Jack the motorcycle up on its frame so that the rear wheel no longer touches

the ground.

Press the chain upward at the end of the chain sliding component. The

distance between the chain and the swing arm should be approx. 8 - 10 mm

(0.31 - 0.39 in). In the course of this procedure, the upper chain portion [A]

must be taut (see drawing). If necessary, correct the chain tension.

– Excessive tensioning of the chain will put additional load on the compo-

nents of the secondary drivetrain (chain, bearings of transmission and rear

wheel). Aside from resulting premature wear, if worst comes to worst the

chain may rupture or the countershaft of the transmission may break.

– Too much slack in the chain, on the other hand, can result in the chain

jumping off the chain wheels. If this happens, the chain could also block

the rear wheel or damage the engine.

– In either case the operator is likely to lose control of the motorcycle.

Correct chain tension

Loosen collar nut [1], loosen lock nuts [2], and turn right and left adjusting

screws [3] equally far. Tighten lock nuts.

To ensure the correct alignment of the rear wheel, the marks at the left and

right chain adjusters must be positioned identically in relation to the

reference marks [B]. Tighten the counter nut of the adjusting screws.

Clean and grease the adjusting screws regularly (Motorex Long Term Grease

2000). Before tightening the collar nut, verify that the chain adjusters [4] are

sitting close to the adjusting screws and that the rear wheel has been aligned

with the front wheel.

Tighten collar nut [1] to 80 Nm.

– If you don’t happen to have a torque wrench at hand, make sure you have

the tightening torque corrected by a KTM dealer as soon as possible. A

loose axle may lead to an unstable driving behavior of your motorcycle.

– Tighten the collar nut with the required torque. A loose wheel spindle may

lead to an unstable behavior of your motorcycle.

NOTE:

The large adjusting range of the chain adjusters (32mm) allows you to use

different secondary ratios in combination with the same chain length. The

chain adjusters [4] can be rotated by 180°.

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Adapting the chain guide to the number of rear sprocket teeth

250 SX-F, EXC-F Six Days:

NOTE:

The position of the chain guide must be adjusted due to the large number of

rear sprockets available. Up to 44 teeth, insert the retaining screw on the

chain guide in the lower hole [A], from 45 teeth in the upper hole [B].

Loosen screw [1] and remove screw [2]. Tilt the chain guide down and insert

the collared bush [3] in the corresponding hole.

Torque the screws to 10 Nm.

250 XC-F, XCF-W, EXC-F:

NOTE:

The position of the chain guide must be adjusted due to the large number of

rear sprockets available. Up to 44 teeth, insert the retaining screw on the

chain guide in the lower hole [C], from 45 teeth in the upper hole [D].

Loosen both screws on the chain guide and pull the chain guide off the swing

arm.

Turn the chain guide over, press out the retaining nut [4] and insert it in the

other hole [5], turning the retaining nut around.

Remount the chain guide and tighten the screws to 10 Nm.

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Chain maintenance

For a long chain life, good maintenance is very important. Chains without

X-rings should be cleaned in fireproof solvent regularly and afterwards treated

with hot grease or chain spray (e.g. Motorex Chainlube 622).

X-ring chains on the other hand are very simple to clean. The best effect is

achieved with a suitable chain cleaning agent (e.g. Motorex Chain Clean 611.

Do not use brushes or solvents. After letting the chain dry, you can use a spe-

cial X-ring chain spray (e.g. Motorex Chainlube 622).

No lubrication is allowed to reach the rear tire or the brake disks, otherwise

the road adherence and the rear wheel braking effects would be strongly reduced

and the motorcycle could easily lose control.

When mounting the chain masterlink clip, the closed side of the masterlink

clip must point in running direction.

Also check sprockets and chain guides for wear and replace if necessary.

Chain wear

To check the chain wear, observe the following indications:

Shift the gear into idling and pull the upper chain strand with approx. 10-15

Kilograms (33 lb) upwards (see figure). Now one can measure a space of 18

chain reels at the lower chain strand. The chain should be replaced at the

latest when a space of 272 mm (10.70 in) is measured. Chains do not always

wear off evenly, therefore repeat the measurement at different places on the

chain.

15 KG

33 lbs

NOTE: if you mount a new chain, the sprockets should also be replaced. New

chains wear faster if used on old used sprockets.

Secure the screws of the chain wheel by applying Loctite and fasten them in

a crosswise order.

Tightening torque for nuts: 35 Nm.

Tightening torque for screws: 50 Nm.

max. 272 mm

16 17 18

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

General information about KTM disc brakes

BRAKE CALIPERS:

The brake calipers of this series use a „floating“ mount. This means that the

brake calipers are not solidly attached to the caliper support, which enables

them to „float“ for maximum braking contact. Secure the screws of the caliper

support with Loctite 243 and tighten to 25 Nm.

BRAKE PADS:

The brake pads are fitted with TOSHIBA TT 2701 HHB sintered lining at the

front and TOYO B 143 FF sintered lining at the back. These linings provide

an optimal combination of dosing, brake performance and life cycle. The lin-

ing type is stated on the back of the brake pad and also recorded in the homolo-

gation papers.

BRAKE DISCS:

Due to wear, the thickness of the brake disc in the area of the contact

face [1] of the brake pads decreases. The brake disk must be at least

2.50 mm (front) / 3.50 mm (rear) thick at the thinnest point [A]. Check the

thickness of the brake disk at several points.

– A brake disk worn down to less than 2.50 mm (front) / 3.50 mm (rear) is

a safety risk. Have the brake disk replaced as soon as it reaches the serv-

ice limit.

– Have any repairs on the brake system be performed by a KTM dealer.

BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIRS:

The brake fluid reservoirs on the front and rear wheel brakes have been

designed in such a way that even if the brake pads are worn it is not neces-

sary to top up the brake fluid. If the brake fluid level drops below the mini-

mum level either the brake system has a leak or the brake pads are completely

worn.In this case, consult an authorized KTM dealer immediately.

BRAKE FLUID:

We recommend that you use Motorex DOT 5.1 brake fluid when you refill or

change the brake fluid. DOT 5. 1 brake fluid has a wet boiling point of 180°C

/356°F (25°C/45°F higher than DOT 4) and is safer for high performance appli-

cations. Brake fluid DOT 5.1 is a polyethylene glycol based fluid, amber-col-

ored and can be mixed with DOT 4 brake fluid. Do not, in any event, use DOT

5 brake fluid. It is based on silicone oil and is dyed purple. KTM motorcycle

gaskets and brake hoses are not designed for DOT 5 brake fluid.

Have the brake fluid changed at least once annually. If you wash your motor-

cycle often, the brake fluid should be changed even more frequently. Brake

fluid tends to absorb water. Therefore, vapor pockets may form in "old" brake

fluids even at low temperatures, causing the brake system to fail.

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Adjusting the free travel at the hand brake lever

Free travel at the hand brake lever may be readjusted by using adjustment

screw [1]. In this way, the position of the point of pressure (i.e. the resis-tance

you feel on the hand brake lever when the brake pads are pressed against the

brake disc) can be adjusted for any hand size.

When you press the hand brake lever forwards, you should have at least

3 mm free travel. Turn the adjusting screw [1] if necessary.

min. 3 mm

At the hand brake lever, free travel must at least be 3 mm (0.1 in). Only then

may the piston in the hand brake cylinder be moved (to be recognized by the

greater resistance of the hand brake lever). If this free travel is not provided,

pressure will build up in the braking system, and the front-wheel brake may

fail due to overheating.

Checking the brake fluid level - front brake

The brake fluid reservoir is linked with the hand brake cylinder at the handle-

bar and the reservoir is provided with an inspection glass. With the reservoir

in a horizontal position, the brake fluid level should not drop below the

middle of the glass.

If the brake fluid level drops below the minimum either the brake system has

a leak or the brake pads are completely worn. In this case, consult an author-

ized KTM dealer immediately.

Refilling the front brake fluid reservoir *

Loosen screws [2] and remove lid [3] and membrane [4].

Place hand brake cylinder in a horizontal position and fill the brake fluid reser-

voir to 5 mm (0.2 in) below the rim with clean brake fluid DOT 5.1 (e.g. Motorex

Brake Fluid DOT 5.1). Replace membrane and lid, tighten screws. Rinse off

spilled or overflowing brake fluid with water.

– Never use DOT5 brake fluid! It is based on silicone oil and of a purple

color. Seals and brake hoses must be especially adapted to it.

– Store brake fluid out of reach of children.

– Brake fluid can cause skin irritation. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. If

you get brake fluid in your eyes, rinse with plenty of water and consult a

doctor

– Don’t let brake fluid get in contact with paint, it is an effective paint remover.

– Use only clean brake fluid taken from a tightly sealed container.

5 mm

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Checking the front brake pads

min.

The brake pads can be inspected from below. The linings must be at least

1 mm (0.04 in) thick.

1 mm

At their most worn point brake pad linings should not be thinner than 1 mm,

otherwise they could lead to brake failure. For your own safety don’t put off

having your brake pads changed.

If the brake pads are replaced too late so that the lining is partly or entirely

worn, the steel components of the brake pad will rub against the brake disc,

thereby imparing the braking effect and destroying the brake disc.

Replacing the front brake pads *

Press the brake caliper toward the brake disk, to put the brake piston in its

basic position. Remove clips [1] and pull out bolt [2]. Remove brake pads

from the brake caliper. Clean the brake caliper and the brake caliper support

with compressed air. Check the sleeves of the guide bolts for damage, and

grease guide bolts if necessary.

Mount the right brake pad and fix it with the bolt. Mount the left brake pad

and insert the bolt until it stops. Mount the clips.

When mounting the brake pads, be sure to check for correct fit of the

sliding metal-sheet [3] in the caliper support and of the leaf spring [4].

– It is very important to keep the brake disk free from oil and fatty matters.

Otherwise, the braking effect would be strongly reduced.

– After assembly, check if circlips have been fitted correctly.

– After working on the braking system, always actuate the hand brake lever

or foot brake lever, respectively to ensure that the brake pads will lie against

the brake disk and the pressure point is established.

Changing the basic position of the foot brake pedal *

To change the basic position of the foot brake lever, loosen the counternut

[5] and turn the stop screw [6] as needed. Be sure to adjust the free travel

of the foot brake lever. Measured on the outside, the foot brake lever should

have 3-5 mm free travel before the piston rod moves the piston in the foot

brake cylinder (you will feel the stronger resistance of the foot brake lever).

Loosen the counternut [7] and turn the pushrod [8] as needed.

If this free play is not present, then pressure can build up in the brake sys-

tem when driving, causing the rear wheel to brake.The braking system over-

heats and may even fail completely in extreme cases.

3-5mm

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Checking the rear brake fluid level

The reservoir for the rear brake disk is located on the right side of the motor-

cycle on the rear brake cylinder.

No air bubble should be visible in inspection glass [A] when the vehicle is

parked in a vertical position.

If the brake fluid level drops below the minimum either the brake system has

a leak or the brake pads are completely worn. In this case, consult an author-

ized KTM dealer immediately.

Refilling the rear brake fluid reservoir *

Add brake fluid as soon as a bubble is visible in inspection glass [A].

To top up, remove screw [1]. Fill DOT5.1 brake fluid (e.g. Motorex Brake Fluid

DOT 5.1) up to the mark [B] on the inside of the reservoir and remount the

screw. Spilled brake fluid must be rinsed off with water.

– Never use DOT5 brake fluid! It is based on silicone oil and of a purple

color. Seals and brake hoses must be especially adapted to it.

– Store brake fluid out of reach of children.

– Brake fluid can cause skin irritation. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. If

you get brake fluid in your eyes, rinse with plenty of water and consult a

doctor.

– Don’t let brake fluid get in contact with paint, it is an effective paint remover.

– Use only clean brake fluid taken from a tightly sealed container.

Checking the rear brake pads

The brake pads can be inspected from the rear. The thickness of the linings

may not be less than 1 mm (0.04 in).

min.

1 mm

At their most worn point brake pad linings should not be thinner than 1 mm,

otherwise they could lead to brake failure. For your own safety don’t put off

having your brake pads changed.

If the brake pads are replaced too late so that the lining is partly or entirely

worn, the steel components of the brake pad will rub against the brake disc,

thereby imparing the braking effect and destroying the brake disc.

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Replacing the rear brake pads *

Push the brake caliper [1] toward the chain wheel in order to move the brake

piston into its basic position. Remove the clips [2], pull out the bolt [3], and

remove the brake pads. Thoroughly clean the brake caliper with compressed

air and check the sleeves of the guide bolts for damage.

Insert the left brake pad into the brake caliper and secure it with the bolt.

Insert the right brake pad and push the bolt [3] into the brake caliper up to

the stop. Reattach clips [2].

– It is very important to keep the brake disk free from oil and fatty matters.

Otherwise, the braking effect would be strongly reduced.

– After assembly, check if clips have been fitted correctly.

– After working on the braking system, always actuate the hand brake lever

or foot brake lever, respectively to ensure that the brake pads will lie against

the brake disk and the pressure point is established.

Dismounting and mounting the front wheel

To remove the front wheel, jack the motorcycle up on its frame so that the

front wheel no longer touches the ground.

Loosen the 2 clamping screws [4] on the left side of the fork fists.

Loosen and remove the collar nut [5], loosen the clamping screws on the right

side of the fork fist.

Hold the front wheel, pull out the wheel spindle.

Carefully remove the front wheel from the fork.

– Do not operate the hand brake when the front wheel has been dismounted.

– Make sure the brake disc is always on top when you lay down the wheel,

otherwise the brake disc can be damaged.

Before remounting the front wheel, clean and grease the shaft seal rings [A]

and the bearing surface [B] of the distance bushings and mount the distance

bushing.

To install the front wheel, lift it into the fork, position and mount the axle

shaft. Mount the collar nut [5], tighten the clamping screws [6] on the right

fork leg axle passage to prevent the axle shaft from turning and tighten the

collar nut to 40 Nm (30ft.lb).

Loosen the clamp screws on the right fork leg. Take the motorcycle down from

its stand. Press the front wheel brakes and push down on the fork a few times

vigorously so that the fork legs come into alignment.

Only after this has been accomplished, tighten the clamp screws on both fork

legs with 15 Nm.

– If you don’t happen to have a torque wrench at hand, make sure you have

the tightening torque corrected by a KTM dealer as soon as possible. A

loose axle may lead to an unstable driving behavior of your motorcycle.

– After mounting the front wheel, keep operating the hand brake until the

pressure point returns.

– It is very important to keep the brake disk free from oil and fatty matters,

otherwise the braking effect would be strongly reduced.

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Dismounting and mounting the rear wheel

Jack the motorcycle up on its frame so that the rear wheel no longer

touches the ground.

Remove the collar nut [1], remove the chain tensioner [2] and pull out the

wheel spindle [3] until you can push the rear wheel forwards.

Take the chain off the rear sprocket, pull out the wheel spindle and carefully

remove the rear wheel from the swing arm.

– Do not operate the rear brake when the rear wheel has been dismounted.

– Make sure the brake disc is always on top when you lay down the wheel,

otherwise the brake disc can be damaged.

– If the axle is dismounted, clean the thread of the wheel spindle and col-

lar nut thoroughly and apply a new coat of grease to prevent the thread

from jamming.

The rear wheel is remounted in the reverse order. Before tightening the col-

lar nut to 80 Nm, push the rear wheel forwards so that the chain tensioners

lie on the tension screws.

– If you don’t happen to have a torque wrench at hand, make sure you have

the tightening torque corrected by a KTM dealer as soon as possible. A

loose axle may lead to an unstable driving behavior of your motorcycle.

– After mounting the rear wheel, keep operating the rear brake until the pres-

sure point returns.

– It is very important to keep the brake disk free from oil and fatty matters,

eitherwise the braking effects would be strongly reduced.

– Tighten the collar nut with the required torque. A loose wheel spindle may

lead to an unstable behavior of your motorcycle.

Checking spoke tension

The correct spoke tension is very important for the stability of the wheels and

thus for riding safety. A loose spoke causes the wheel to become unbalanced

and before long other spokes will have come loose. Check spoke tension, espe-

cially on a new motorcycle, at regular intervals. For checking, tap on each

spoke with the blade of a screwdriver (see photo). A clear tone must be the

result. Dull tones are indicators of loose spokes. If necessary, have the spokes

retightened and the wheel centered by a KTM dealer.

– Spokes can tear if you continue to ride with them loose. This may lead to

an unstable handling of your motorcycle.

– Excessively tensioned spokes may rupture due to local overloading. The

spokes must be tensioned to 5 Nm.

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Tires, air pressure

Tire type, tire condition, and air pressure level affect the way your motor-cycle

rides and must therefore be checked whenever you are getting ready to go

anywhere on your motorcycle.

– Tire size can be found in the technical specifications and in the homolo-

gation certificate

– Tire condition has to be checked every time you want to ride your motor-

cycle. Before leaving, check tires for punctures and nails or other sharp

objects that might have become embedded in them.

Refer to the specific regulations in your country for minimum tire tread

requirements. We recommend you replace the tires at the latest when the

tread is down to 2 mm (0.08 in).

– Tire pressure should be checked regularly on a “cold” tire. Proper pres-

sure ensures optimum driving comfort and extends the life of your tires.

TIRES-AIR PRESSURE

front

– Do not mount tires which have not been approved by KTM. Other tires

could have adverse effects on the way your motorcycle behaves.

– front and rear wheels may only be fitted with tires having the same tread

layout. Use homologated tires.

– For your own safety replace damaged tires immediately.

– Worn tires can have a negative effect on how your motorcycle performs,

especially on wet surfaces.

rear

Off road

Onroad

1,0 bar

1,5 bar

1,0 bar

2,0 bar

– If air pressure is too low, abnormal wear and overheating of the tire can

result.

Check/set distance of the magnetic sensor

The distance between magnet [2] and sensor [1] must be 2-4 mm

(0,08-0,16 in), otherwise malfunctions on the speedometer might occur.

This distance can be corrected by screwing in or off the sensor [1].

Replacing the battery of the digital speedometer

Remove the headlight mask and disassemble the electronic speedometer.

Remove the screw connection [3], insert the battery (type CR 2430) with the

writing facing up and reinstall the screw connection.

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Battery

The battery is located under the seat and is maintenance-free.

Maintenance-free means you will not need to check the acid level. Clean the

battery terminals regularly and grease with acid-free grease if necessary. The

charge condition and type of charge are very important for the battery's serv-

ice life.

TO REMOVE THE BATTERY:

First disconnect the negative pole, then the positive pole from the battery.

Remove the filter box cover and detach both rubber bands [1].

Remove the battery.

Install the battery as described for the specific type of battery (see illustra-

tion). Connect the minus pole to the battery last.

– If electrolyte (sulphuric acid) leaks from the battery, proceed with great

care. The electrolyte can cause severe burns.

– In the case of skin contact rinse thoroughly with water.

– In the case of contact with the eyes, thoroughly rinse eyes with water for

at least 15 minutes. Immediately consult a doctor.

– The battery is a closed model but can nevertheless emit explosive gases.

Avoid sparks and open fire near the battery.

– Defective batteries must be stored out of the reach of children. Ensure

proper disposal of discarded batteries.

Never remove the closure [2] since it will be damaged

STORAGE:

If the motorcycle is being immobilized for longer periods of time, remove and

charge the battery. Storage temperature 0 - 35°C, avoid direct sunlight.

Charge the battery every 3 months.

Charging the battery

The battery discharges every day, even if it is not used.

Always disconnect the battery when charging. Charge the battery as described

in the instructions [3] on the battery housing. Do not exceed the amperage

and charging time. Quick charging at a high amperage has an adverse effect

on the service life.

To charge the battery while mounted, always use the KTM battery charger (Item

no. 584.29.074.000) to ensure that the electric system is not damaged by

excess voltage. Always remove the battery if using other battery chargers! You

can also use this charging device to test the off-load voltage and startability

of the battery and generator. It is impossible to overcharge the battery with

this device.

Charge the battery immediately if it is empty when you start the motorcycle.

If left to stand in an uncharged condition for a longer period of time, the bat-

tery will run down and sulfatize, destroying the battery.

Recharge the battery every 3 months if it is being stored for a longer period

of time.

– Never remove the closure [2] since it will be damaged.

– To avoid damage to the on-board electronic system, always disconnect the

minus pole before you charge the battery.

VOLT

– To charge, connect the battery to the battery charger before you switch on

the battery charger. When the battery is charged, switch off the battery

charger before you disconnect the battery.

– Provide adequate ventilation when charging the battery in a closed room;

the battery emits explosive gases when charging.

– Electrolytes will escape through the safety valves if the battery is charged

too long or at an excessive voltage or amperage. This will reduce battery

capacity.

– Try to avoid quick charges.

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Fuse

The fuse [1] is located in the starter relay of the E-starter [2] underneath the

left side paneling.

Having removed the left side paneling, the air box cover and the protection

cover [A], you will be able to see the fuse.

The following loads are connected to it:

– E-starter system

– horn

– flasher lights

– electronic speedometer

The starter relay also contains a (10 amp) spare fuse [3].

Replace a blown fuse only with an equivalent one. If a new fuse that has just

been installed gets blown again, you are strongly advised to have it

inspected by a KTM dealer.

The fuse capacity is 10 Ampere.

Under no circumstances is a stronger fuse allowed to be installed or a fuse

allowed to be “repaired”. An improper treatment could damage the whole elec-

trical installation.

Replacing headlight lamp/parking light lamp

Loosen both rubber bands and tilt headlight mask to the front. Pull the park-

ing light lamp with holder [4] carefully out of the reflector. Pull connector [5]

off the headlamp and remove rubber cap [6]. Disengage retaining clip and

take bulb out of reflector.

When changing the parking-light lamp, simply pull it out of the holder.

Slightly depress the bulb, turn it approx. 30° counterclockwise and pull it out

of the socket.

To mount the lamp reverse the worksteps indicated above.

Engage the bottom end of the headlamp mask at the retaining pins and fix

the mask by means of the rubber bands.

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Cooling system

Coolant is circulated by a water pump [1] located in the engine. When the

engine is cold the coolant only circulates through the cylinder and the cylin-

der head. After the engine has reached its operating temperature (about 70°C,

158°F), the thermostat opens and the coolant is also pumped through both

aluminum radiators.

Air blowing in through the radiators cools the coolant. The slower the speed

of the motorcycle, the less the coolant is cooled down. Dirty

radiators also reduce the cooling efficiency.

Pressure induced by heating of the coolant in the system is controlled by a

valve in the radiator cap [2]; a water temperature rising up to 120° C

(248° F) is admissible, without fear of problems.

– If possible, always check level of cooling liquid when the engine is cold.

If you have to open the radiator cap when the engine is hot, use a rag to

cover the cap and open slowly to release pressure. Caution - scalding haz-

ard!

– Do not detach any radiator hoses while the engine is hot. The escaping

hot coolant and the steam may cause serious burns.

– In case you get burnt, hold the affected part of your body under running

cold water right away.

– Coolant is toxic. Keep the coolant out of the reach of children.

– In case coolant is ingested, consult a doctor immediately.

– If coolant gets into your eyes, rinse them out with water immediately and

consult doctor.

A mixture of 50% antifreeze liquid and 50% destilled water is used as coolant.

However, the antifreeze protection must be at least -25° C (-13° F). This mix-

ture offers antifreeze protection but also good corrosion protection and should

therefore not be replaced by pure water.

– The cooling system must be bled after draining the cooling liquid or after

adding more than 0.25 l (0.06 US gallons) cooling liquid.(see below).

– For the cooling system, use only high-grade antifreeze (e.g. Motorex Anti

Freeze). Using lower-grade antifreeze agents can cause corrosion and

coolant foaming.

Checking the coolant level

The coolant should be 10 mm (0.4 in) above the radiator fins when the engine

is cold (see diagram). In the event of the coolant being drained, always fill

and bleed the system.

10 mm

when engine ist cold

If possible, always check the level of cooling liquid when the engine is cold.

If you have to open the radiator cap [2] when the engine is hot, use a rag to

cover the cap and open slowly to release pressure.

Caution - scalding hazard!

Bleeding the cooling system

By removing the screw [3] at the water pump cover you can drain the coo-

lant.

To bleed the cooling system, add coolant up to approx. 10 mm above the radia-

tor fins when the engine is cold.

After a short ride, check the coolant level once more.

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Replacing the glassfiber yarn packing of the silencer *

SX-F

Aluminum silencers are filled with glassfiber yarn to muffle noise. Have the

filling checked regularly by an authorized KTM workshop (see Lubrication and

Service Chart). The insulating material fibers escape through the holes in the

perforated pipe with time, causing the silencer to „burn out“. In addition to

causing a higher noise-level, it will also affect the power characteristic. The

insulating material suitable for your exhaust is available from your authorized

KTM workshop.

By experience, the front glassfiber yarn packing(s) [1] need(s) to be replaced

more often than the rear silencing mat [2].

Take the silencer off and remove the front cap as well as the exhaust inner

pipe [3]. Pull the front glass fiber yarn packing out of the silencer. Clean the

front exhaust inner pipe.

To facilitate the mounting procedure, you can make a mounting tool out of

wood, plastic, or metal. Insert the mounting tool into the inner pipe and mount

the glassfiber packing. Push the inner pipe containing the packing into the

silencer such that the slot engages the web. Use a blunt ended object to stuff

the glassfiber yarn packing all the way into the silencer, and mount the front

cap.

To change the rear silencing mat, start by removing the front packing and the

inner exhaust pipe. Then, drill open the rivets and remove the end cap [4].

NOTE: In every exhaust repair procedure, the O-rings [5] must be replaced

by new ones. Glass fiber yarn packings are available from your licensed KTM

mechanic.

XC-F/XCF-W/EXC-F

Make sure the caps are screwed on tightly. Mount the muffler stress-free before

tightening the fixing screws.

The exhaust system becomes very hot while the motorcycle is running. to avoid

burns do not start work on the exhaust system until it has properly cooled

down.

Cleaning the spark arrester (XC-F/XCF-W USA) *

The spark arrester should be cleaned every time the glassfiber yarn filling is

changed or at least once annually.

For this purpose, dismount the silencer cap and remove any deposits that might

exist in region [A]. Renew the O-ring and mount the silencer cap.

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Cleaning the air filter *

The air filter must be cleaned prior to each race or whenever dust has accu-

mulated. To clean, lift the filter box cover [1]

(see illustration) and pull off towards the front.

Detach the bottom of the filter retaining bracket [2], tilt aside and the air fil-

ter [3] and filter support [4] from the filter box.

– Do not clean foam filter with fuel or petroleum since these damage the

foam. KTM recommends the products of the company Motorex for air fil-

ter maintenance (Bio Dirt Remover and Liquid Bio Power).

– Never start your motorcycle without any air filters. Otherwise, dust and

dirt may penetrate and cause damage and increased wear.

– Dust and dirt can accumulate and damage the engine if the air filter is

not mounted correctly.

Thoroughly wash the air filter in special cleaning fluid and allow it to dry well.

Only press out the filter, do not wring it out under any circumstances. Oil the

dry air filter with a high-grade filter oil. Also clean the air filter box. Check

the carburetor collar for damage and that it is filled correctly.

Mount the air filter on the filter support. Insert the air filter and filter support

in the the filter box, aligning in a central position, and fix with the filter retain-

ing bracket.

Adjusting the throttle cables *

The throttle grip should always provide for a backlash of 3-5mm. Besides,

with the engine running, the idling speed must not change if you turn the

handlebar all the way to the left or right.

To adjust the throttle cables, dismount the seat and the tank together with

spoilers. Slide back the protection cover [5]. Loosen the counternut [6] and

turn the adjusting screw [7] accordingly. Turning the adjusting screw

counterclockwise will reduce the backlash, turning the adjusting screw clock-

wise will increase the backlash.

Tighten the counternut and check whether the throttle grip can be

actuated smoothly. Mount tank and seat.

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Changing the original position of the clutch lever

The adjusting screw [1] can be used for individual adjustment of the original

position of the clutch lever, thus allowing adjustment to an optimal position

for every hand size.

Turning the adjusting screw counterclockwise reduces the distance between

the clutch lever and the handlebar. Turning the adjusting screw clockwise

increases the distance between the clutch lever and the handlebar.

Adjustment of the clutch lever position is only possible within certain limits.

Only turn the adjusting screw manually and never apply excessive force.

Checking the oil level of the hydraulic clutch

To check the oil level in the master cylinder of the clutch remove the cover.

For this purpose, remove screws [2] and cover [3] together with the rubber

boot [4]. The oil level in the horizontal-standing master cylinder should be 4

mm below the upper edge.

If necessary, fill up with brake fluid DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 (e.g. Motorex Brake

Fluid DOT 5.1).

– Never use DOT 5 brake fluid! It is based on silicone oil and of a purple

color. Seals and brake hoses must be especially adapted to it.

– Store brake fluid out of reach of children.

– Brake fluid can cause skin irritation. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. If

you get brake fluid in your eyes, rinse with plenty of water and consult a

doctor.

– Don’t let brake fluid get in contact with paint, it is an effective paint remo-

ver.

– Use only clean brake fluid taken from a tightly sealed container.

Bleeding of the hydraulic clutch *

If the clutch lever starts to feel unresponsive, the clutch control system needs

to be bled. You will need a bleeder syringe (special tool), available from your

KTM dealer.

Turn the handlebar until the master cylinder is in a horizontal position, remove

the screws [2], the cover [3] and the rubber boot [4].

Fill the bleeder syringe [5] with brake fluid DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 (e.g. Motorex

Brake Fluid DOT 5.1).

– Never use DOT 5 brake fluid! It is based on silicone oil and of a purple

color. Seals and brake hoses must be especially adapted to it.

– Store brake fluid out of reach of children.

– Brake fluid can cause skin irritation. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. If

you get brake fluid in your eyes, rinse with plenty of water and consult a

doctor.

– Don’t let brake fluid get in contact with paint, it is an effective paint remo-

ver.

– Use only clean brake fluid taken from a tightly sealed container.

Remove the bleeder screw [6] from the slave cylinder and mount the bleeder

syringe. Press oil into the system until the oil runs out of the hole [7] in the

master cylinder without bubbles. Occasionally extract the oil from the mas-

ter cylinder reservoir to keep it from overflowing.

After you finish bleeding, remove the bleeder syringe, mount the bleeder screw,

correct the oil level in the reservoir and mount the cover (see above).

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Carburetor – Adjust idling (Keihin-FCRMX 39) *

Idling adjustment of the carburetor strongly affects the engine’s starting

behavior. That is, an engine whose idling speed is adjusted correctly will be

easier to start than one whose idling speed has not been adjusted correctly.

The idle speed is controlled by means of the adjusting wheel [1] and the

mixture control screw [2]. The adjusting wheel is used to adjust the basic set-

ting of the slide. The mixture control screw is used to control the idle mixture

which arrives at the engine by way of the idle system. Clockwise turning reduces

the fuel quantity (lean mixture), counterclockwise turning increases the fuel

quantity (rich mixture).

TO ADJUST IDLING CORRECTLY, PROCEED AS FOLLOWS:

Turn in mixture control screw [2] up to the stop, and turn it back out to

the basic position (see technical date-engine)

Warm up the engine

Use the adjusting wheel [1] to set the normal idle speed (1400 - 1500 rpm).

Turn mixture control screw [2] slowly clockwise until idling speed starts

to decrease. Memorize this position, and turn mixture control screw slowly

counterclockwise until the idling speed decreases again. Adjust the point

of the highest idling speed between these two positions. If, in the course

of this procedure, the speed undergoes a relatively high increase, reduce

the idle speed to a normal level and repeat the procedure specified in 4.

Serious competitive racers will choose a setting approx. 1/4 turn (clock-

wise) leaner than this ideal value because their engine will heat up more

when used in competitions.

NOTE: If you fail to obtain a satisfying result by following the procedure

described above, an incorrectly dimensioned idling nozzle may be the cause.

If:

a) the mixture control screw has been screwed in up to the stop without

causing any change in rotational speed, a smaller idling jet has to be

installed;

b) the engine dies when the mixture control screw is still open by

2 turns, a larger idling jet needs to be selected.

Naturally, in cases of jet changes, you have to start your adjusting work

from the beginning.

Then, use the adjusting wheel to set the desired idle speed.

In cases of greater changes in the outside temperature and extremely

different altitudes, the idling speed should be readjusted.

Basic information on carburetor wear

As a result of engine vibrations, the throttle valve, jet needle, and needle jet

are subjected to increased wear. This wear may cause the carburetor to mal-

function (e.g., overly rich mixture). Therefore, these parts should be checked

after approx. 50 hours.

Checking the float level (float height) *

For this purpose, dismount the carburetor and remove the float chamber. Hold

the carburetor in a slanted position such that the float will abut the float nee-

dle valve but not compress it.

In this position, the edge of the float should be parallel with the float cham-

ber sealing surface (see illustration).

If the float height does not correspond to the desired value, check the float

needle valve and, if necessary, replace it.

If the float needle valve is o.k., you can adjust the float height by bending the

float lever [3].

Mount the float chamber, install the carburetor, and adjust the idle speed.

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Draining the float chamber of the carburetor

Following every wet-cleaning procedure, the float chamber of the carburetor

should be drained in order to remove any water that may have penetrated into

it. Water in the float chamber leads to engine malfunction.

Make sure you do this while the engine is cold. Close the fuel tap and place a

cloth under the carburetor, which is capable of absorbing the leaking fuel.

Unscrew the plug [1] and clean it with compressed air. Then, mount the plug

together with the gasket, open the fuel tap, and check the float chamber for leaks.

– Fuel is easily flammable and toxic. When handling fuel, be sure to exer-

cise the utmost caution. Never perform any work on the fuel system near

open flames or burning cigarettes.

– Always allow the engine to cool off first. Immediately clean up any fuel

which may have been spilled. Materials saturated with fuel are also easily

flammable. In case you ingested fuel or fuel splashed into your eyes, con-

sult a doctor immediately.

– Dispose of the fuel properly.

Checking the engine oil level

The engine oil level can be checked with the engine either warm or cold. Place

the motorcycle in an upright position and on a horizontal surface (not on the

side stand).

If the engine is cold, the engine oil must be visible at the lower edge of the

inspection glass [A].

If the engine is warm, the engine oil must be visible up to the upper edge of

the inspection glass [B].

Replenish the engine oil, if necessary.

Insufficient amounts of or low-grade engine oil lead to premature wear in the

engine.

Engine oil

Automobile engine oil used to be used for four-stroke motorcycles before there

were separate motorcycle specifications. Different technical developments made

it necessary to have a separate specification for four-stroke motorcycles - the

JASO T903 MA standard. Whereas car engines require long changing inter-

vals, motorcycle engines require a higher power output at higher speeds. Most

motorcycle engines also use the same oil to lubricate the transmission and

the clutch. The JASO MA standard responds to these special requirements.

Only use fully synthetic engine oils that meet the JASO MA quality require-

ments (see information on the can).

KTM recommends Motorex Power Synt 4T 10W/50.

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Changing the engine oil *

NOTE: When changing the engine oil, it is necessary to clean the short and

long oil screens and to replace the oil filter.

Engine oil has be changed with the engine at an operating temperature.

An engine at operating temperature and the engine oil it contains are very hot

– do not burn or scald yourself.

Place the motorcycle on a horizontal surface, remove the plug [1] and allow

the oil to drain into a receptacle.

Clean plug (with magnet) thoroughly.

Once the entire oil has been drained, clean the sealing surface, mount the

plug together with the sealing ring and tighten it to 20 Nm.

CLEANING THE SHORT OIL SCREEN

The short oil screen [2] is accommodated in the hex-socket plug at the engine

bottom. Insert a pin-type key into the plug and tap on the key a few times

with a hammer in order to relieve the stress acting on the plug. Dismount the

oil screen, clean the components thoroughly and blow compressed air through

them. Check the O-rings for damage and, if necessary, replace them. Mount

the oil screen together with the plug (oiled) again and tighten the plug to

10 Nm.

CLEANING THE LONG OIL SCREEN

The long oil screen is accommodated in the hexagon plug [3] adjacent to the

engine number. Dismount the plug together with the oil screen, clean the com-

ponents thoroughly and blow compressed air through them. Check the O-rings

for damage and, if necessary, replace them.

To mount the long oil screen [4], place it on an approx. 300 mm (12 in) long

pin-type key or a similar tool. Insert the pin-type key through the opening into

the bore of the opposite engine casing wall. Then, push the oil screen into

the engine casing as far as possible. Remove the pin-type key, mount the plug

and tighten it to 15 Nm.

The oil screen is mounted slightly downwards, incorrectly fitted, the screen

looses its function and this can cause increased engine wear.

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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »

Changing the oil filters *

Place a receptacle underneath the engine to collect the drained oil. Remove

the 2 screws [1] and dismount the oil filter cover.

Using circlip pliers, pull the oil-filter insert [2] out of the housing.

Clean the oil filter cover, the sealing surface of the O-ring and the engine casing.

Check the O-ring of the oil filter covers for damage and, if necessary, replace

it.

Put the motorcycle on its side and fill the oil filter housing about halfway with

engine oil. Fill oil filter with oil, place the oil filter in the filter box.

Grease the O-ring [3] of the oil filter cover and mount the cover. Mount the

screws and tighten them to 6 Nm.

Return the motorcycle to an upright position.

Remove the oil plug [4] at the clutch cover and fill in 1.1 liters of fully syn-

thetic engine oil (Motorex Power Synt 4T 10W/50).

Start the engine and check all screwed connections and the oil filter cover

for leaks.

Finally, check the engine oil level and, if necessary, correct it.

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TROUBLESHOOTING »

If you had the specified maintenance work on your motorcycle carried out, disturbances can hardly be expected. Should an error occur

nevertheless, we advise you to use the troubleshooting chart in order to find the cause of error.

We would like to point out that many operations cannot be performed by yourself. In case of uncertainty, please contact a KTM-dealer.

TROUBLE

CAUSE

REMEDY

Engine doesn’t crank (E-starter). Blown fuse

Dismount the left paneling and the filter box cover and

replace the fuse in the starter relay.

Discharged battery.

Recharge the battery and investigate the causes for discharg-

ing; contact a KTM dealer.

Engine cranks but doesn’t start (E- Operating error

starter).

Open fuel tap, tank fuel, actuate choke. Pay attention to

starting information (see driving instructions).

Engine will not start (Kickstarter). The motorcycle has been out of oper- The easily inflammable components of the new fuels evap-

ation for a longer period of time. orate during longer periods of standing still.

Therefore old fuel has accumulated When the motorcycle has been out of operation for more

in the float chamber

than a week, it is therefore recommended to drain the old

fuel from the float chamber. The engine will immediately

start when the float chamber is filled with new fuel.

Fuel supply interrupted

Close fuel tap, loosen fuel hose at carburetor, lead into a

basin and open fuel tap

–

if fuel leaks out, the carburetor may need cleaning

if no fuel leaks out, check tank ventilation, i.e. clean

fuel tap

Flooded engine

Clean and dry the spark plug or exchange it, respectively

Adjust spark plug electrode gap to 0.6 mm

Sooty or wet spark plug

Electrode gap too large

Spark plug connector or spark plug Dismount spark plug, connect ignition cable, hold to ground

faulty

(blank place on engine) and actuate starter, a strong spark

must be produced at the spark plug

–

If no spark is created replace the spark plug.

If the new spark plug doesn't produce a spark either,

disconnect the spark plug connector from the ignition

cable, hold it a distance of approx. 5 mm from ground

and start.

–

If a spark now occurs, replace spark plug cap

If no spark is produced, control ignition system

Short circuit cable scored in wiring Dismount the fuel tank, disconnect the black/yellow cable

harness, short circuit button faulty from the cable of the short-circuit button, respectively, and

check the ignition spark.

If a spark is generated, look for the problem in the short-

circuit circuit.

The plug connection of the CDI-unit, Remove the seat and the fuel tank. Clean the plug connec-

the pulse generator or the ignition tion and treat it with contact spray

coil has oxydized

Water in carburetor or jets blocked Dismount and clean the carburetor

Engine fails to idle

Glogged idling jet

Disassemble the carburetor and clean the jets

Incorrect adjustment of adjusting Have the carburetor adjusted

screws on carburetor

Defective spark plug

Replace the spark plug

Defective ignition system

Have the ignition system checked

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TROUBLESHOOTING »

TROUBLE

CAUSE

REMEDY

Engine does not rev up

Carburetor fuel level too high because float Dismount carburetor and check if worn out

needle valve is dirty or worn out

Loose carburetor jets

Tighten jets

Electronic ignition timing faulty

Have ignition system checked

Engine will not reach full power Fuel supply partially interrupted or carbu- Clean and check fuel system as well as carburetor

retor dirty

Float leaks

Replace the float

Air filter very dirty

Clean or replace air filter

Exhaust system is not tight, deformed, or Check if exhaust is damaged, replace glasfiber yarn in

the silencer does not contain enough glass- exhaust silencer

fiber yarn

Valve gap too small

Adjust valve gap

Electronic ignition timing faulty

Have ignition system checked

Engine stops or splutters in Insuffient fuel

Clean and check fuel system and carburettor

carburetor

Engine takes air out of control

Insufficient cooling liquid

Check rubber sleeve and carburetor for tight fit

Engine gets too hot

Refill cooling liquid (see maintenace work), check cooling

system for leaks

Not enough air stream

Drive on briskly

Cooling system has not been bled

Radiators very dirty

Bleed cooling system

Clean radiators with water jet

Replace cooling liquid, use antifreeze liquid with brand name

Foam formation in cooling system

Bent cooling hose

Shorten or replace cooling hose

High oil consumption

Hose of engine ventilation is bent

Dislocate i.e. replace non-buckling vetilation hose

Engine oil level too high

Check engine oil level and, if necessary, correct it

Use thicker engine oil; see chapter “Engine oil“

Motor oil too thin (viscosity)

The battery is discharged

The battery isn’t charged by the generator Remove seat and fuel tank and check voltage regulator con-

because

nections; voltage regulator and generator should be checked

by a KTM dealer.

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CLEANING »

Clean your motorcycle regularly in order to maintain the beauty of its plastic surfaces.

The best manner would be to use warm water that has been mixed with a normal brand-name washing detergent and a sponge.

The hard dirt can be removed before washing with the help of a soft water jet.

If using a power washer, do not point the water jet at the electric components, plugs, cables, bearings, carburetor, etc. The high pres-

sure will cause water to penetrate into the components and can cause them to malfunction or lead to premature wear.

– You should use normal brand-name detergents to clean the motorcycle. Especially dirty parts should also be cleaned with the help

of a paint brush.

– Before cleaning with water, plug the exhaust pipe to prevent water ingress

– After the motorcycle has been rinsed with a soft water jet, it should be dried by air pressure and a cloth. Drain the float chamber

of the carburetor. Then take a short drive until the engine has reached the working temperature and also use the brakes. By warm-

ing these components, the residual water can evaporate from inaccessable parts of the engine and the brakes.

– Slide back the protective covers on the handlebar-mounted instruments so that any water that may have seeped into this part of

the motorcycle is allowed to evaporate.

– Once the motorcycle has cooled down, oil or grease all sliding and bearing points. Treat the chain with a chain spray. Also oil the

fuel tap.

– To avoid any failures in of the electric system, you should treat the emergency-OFF switch, short-circuit button, light switch and

socket connectors with a contact spray.

CONSERVATION FOR WINTER OPERATION »

In the event that the motorcycle is also used in winter and on roads where one has to expect salt spraying, you will have to take pre-

cautions against the aggressive road salt.

– clean the motorcycle thoroughly and let it dry after each ride

– treat the engine, carburetor, swing arm, and all other bare or galvanized parts (except for brake discs) with a wax-based anti-corro-

sion agent.

Keep the anti-corrosion agent from getting into contact with the brake discs, otherwise this will significantly reduce the braking power.

After rides on salted roads, clean motorcycle thoroughly with cold water and let it dry well.

STORAGE »

Should you wish to make a pause over a longer space of time, please observe the following instructions:

– Clean motorcycle thoroughly (see chapter: CLEANING)

– Change engine oil, short and long oil filters (old engine oil contains aggressive contaminants).

– Check antifreeze and amount of cooling liquid.

– Warm up the engine once again, close the fuel cock and wait until the engine dies. Then open the drain plug of the float chamber

to remove the remaining fuel.

– Remove spark plug and fill in approx. 5 ccm of engine oil into the cylinder through the opening. Actuate kick-starter 10 times in

order to distribute the oil onto the cylinder walls and mount the spark plug.

– Set piston to compression so that the valves will be closed (slowly operate the kickstarter until you can hear the automatic

decompressor click (release))

– Let fuel flow out of tank into an appropriate container.

– Correct tire pressure.

– Lubricate pivot points of the control levers, foot rests, etc. as well as the chain.

– Service the shock absorber linkage

– Disassemble and charge battery (see chapter: BATTERY).

– The storage place should be dry and not subjected to excessive temperature fluctuations.

– Cover the motorcycle with an air permeated tarpaulin or blanket. Do not use airtight materials as a possible humidity might not be

able to escape and could cause corrosion.

It would be very bad to let the engine run for a short time during the storage period. The engine would not get warmed up enough and

the thus developed steam would condense during the combustion process and cause the valves and exhaust to rust.

USE AFTER A PERIOD OF STORAGE

– Mount the charged battery (regard polarity).

– Set the time in the speedometer.

– Fill up tank with fresh fuel.

– Check motorcycle as before each start (see driving instructions).

– Take a short, careful test ride first.

NOTE: Before you put your motorcycle away for the winter, you should check all parts for their function and wear. Should any service

jobs, repairs, or any refitting be necessary, you should have them carried out during the off-season (lower workload at mechanics’ shops).

This way, you can avoid the long waiting times at your mechanic at the beginning of the next biking season.

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TECHNICAL DATA – ENGINE » »

ENGINE

250 SX-F, XC-F

250 XCF-W, EXC-F

Design

Liquid-cooled single cylinder 4-stroke engine

Displacement

Bore/Stroke

Ratio

249.51 ccm

76 / 55 mm

12.8 : 1

Fuel

unleaded fuel with at least RON 95 (USA = Premium PON 91)

4 valves controlled by finger levers and 2 camshafts,

driven by a pair of spur gears and a tooth-type chain

30.9 mm

Valve timing

Valve diameter Intake

Valve diameter Exhaust

26.5 mm

Valve clearence cold Intake 0.10 - 0.15 mm

Valve clearence cold Exhaust 0.12 - 0.17 mm

Crank shaft bearing

Connecting rod bearing

Top end bearing

Piston

2 cylinder roller bearings

needle bearing

bronze bushing

alluminium alloy forged

Piston rings

1 compression ring, 1 oil scraper ring

pressure circulation lubrication with 2 rotor pumps

full synthetic oil (Motorex Power Synt 4T 10W/50)

1.1 liters

Engine lubrication

Engine oil

Quantity of engine oil

Primary drive

Clutch

22:68

multiple disc clutch in oil bath, hydraulically operated (brake fluid DOT 5.1)

Transmission claw shifted

1st gear

6-speed

13:32

15:30

17:28

19:26

21:25

22:24

6-speed

13:33

17:33

19:29

23:28

23:23

26:22

2nd gear

3rd gear

4th gear

5th gear

6th gear

Ignition system

Generator

contactless DC-CDI ignition with digital advanced system by KOKUSAN

12 V 80 W at 5000 rpm, SX-F without generator

Spark plug

NGK CR 9 EBK

Cooling system

Cooling liquid

Starting equipment

liquid cooled, permanent rotation of cooling liquid through mechanically driven water pump

1.2 liters, 50% antifreeze, 50% destilled water, at least -25° (-13° F)

Kick-and Electric starter; SX-F kickstarter only

Engine oil

Only use fully synthetic engine oils that meet the JASO MA quality require-

ments (see information on the can).

KTM recommends Motorex Power Synt 4T 10W/50.

Poor oil quality or minor quantity cause early engine-wear.

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TECHNICAL DATA – ENGINE »

TIGHTENING TORQUES – ENGINE

Hexagon collar screw, engine case, clutch cover, ignition cover, water pump cover M6

10 Nm

Oil drain plug

M12x1.5

20 Nm

Allen head plug, oil screen short

Hexagon plug, oil screen long

Collar screw for oil filter cover

Plug pressure valve

M16x1.5

M20x1.5

Oil + 10 Nm

15 Nm

6 Nm

M12x1.5

20 Nm

Screws, oil pump cover

Loctite 222 + 6 Nm

10 Nm

Hexagon collar screw, cylinder / cylinder head

Cylinder head screw

M10

Oil + 40/50 Nm

Loctite 243 + 10 Nm

10 Nm

Hexagon collar screw, exhaust flange

Valve cover screws

Camshaft screw

M12x1

Loctite 243 + 80 Nm

Oil + 18 Nm

Collar screw/nut camshaft bearing support

Hexagon nut, primary gear

M18x1.5 left

M18x1.5

Loctite 243 + 150 Nm

Loctite 243 + 120 Nm

10 Nm

Nut for inner clutch hub

Hexagon collar screw, clutch spring

Allan head screw, shift roller locking piece

Hexagon collar screw, locking lever

Locking screw for shift roller bearing

Locking screw for main shaft bearing

HH collar screw clip/tensioning rail

Plug for chain tensioner

Loctite 243 + 10 Nm

Loctite 243 + 6 Nm

Loctite 243 + 10 Nm

25 Nm

M24x1.5

Hexagon collar screw, stator SX-F

Hexagon collar screw, stator XC-F, XCF-W, EXC-F

Hexagon collar screw, E-starter

Hexagon collar screw, pulser coil

Hexagon collar nut, flywheel

Hexagon collar screw, bump part kickstarter

Cable retaining bracket (ignition)

Allan head screw, kickstarter

Hexagon collar screw, shift lever

Hexagon screw, engine sprocket

Spark plug

Loctite 243 + 6 Nm

Loctite 243 + 8 Nm

10 Nm

Loctite 243 + 6 Nm

60 Nm

M12x1

Loctite 243 + 10 Nm

Loctite 243 + 6 Nm

Loctite 243 + 25 Nm

Loctite 243 + 10 Nm

Loctite 243 + 60 Nm

10-12 Nm

M10

BASIC CARBURATOR SETTING

250 SX-F

250 XC-F/XCF-W ZA 250 XCF-W USA 250 EXC-F EU, AUS 250 EXC-F Six Days

Type Keihin FCR-MX

Main jet

3925F

175

3900K

168

3900K

3900H

168

3900K

168

172

Jet needle

OBETP

OBEKT

OBDYS

OBETP

Idling jet

Main air jet

200

Idling air jet

100

Needle position

Starting jet

4th from top 4th from top

3rd from top

5th from top

1,5

–

1,25

–

Mixture control screw open

Slide

1,25

–

Performance restrictor

Leak jet

–

Slide stop

–

Hot start device

2.5 mm

–

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TECHNICAL DATA – CHASSIS »

CHASSIS

250-F

Frame

Central tube chrome-moly-steel frame

Fork

WP Suspension – 4860 MXMA CC / MXMA + PA

300/335 mm

Wheel travel front/rear

Rear suspension

Front brake

Rear brake

Brake disc

Front tires

WP Suspension – 5018 PDS DCC, aluminium swing arm

Disk brake with carbon-steel brake disc Ø 260 mm (10.2 in), brake caliper floated

Disk brake with carbon-steel brake disc Ø 220 mm (8.7 in), brake caliper floated

Wear limit max. 2,5 mm front and 3,5 mm rear

SX-F, XC-F, XCF-W

80/100-21“

EXC-F, EXC-F Six Days

90/90-21“

Air pressure offroad

Air pressure road

1.0 bar

1.5 bar

Rear tires

SX-F

100/90-19“

XC-F, XCF-W

100/100-18“

EXC-F, EXC-F Six Days

120/90-18“

Air pressure offroad

Air pressure road

1.0 bar

2.0 bar

Fuel tank capacity

Final drive ratio

Chain

250 SX-F: 7.2 liters

250 XC-F, XCF-W, EXC-F: 9.2 liters, 2 liters Reserve

250 SX-F, XC-F

13:48

250 XCF-W, EXC-F Six Days

13:52

250 EXC-F

14:38 (13:52)

5/8 x 1/4“

Available final sprockets 38, 40, 42, 45, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52

Bulbs

(250 XCF-W ZA,

250 EXC-F, Six Days)

headlight

12V 35/35W (socket BA20D)

parking light

brake - rear light

flasher light

12V 5W (socket W2, 1x9,5d)

12V 21/5W (socket BaY15d)

12V 10W (socket Ba15s)

Battery

maintenance-free battery 12V 4Ah

63.5°

Steering head angle

Wheel base

1475 ± 10 mm

Seat height, unloaded

925 mm (36.5 in)

Ground clearance, unloaded 380 mm (15.1 in)

Weight (without fuel) SX-F: 96.5 kg XC-F: 104.2 kg XCF-W USA: 105.2 kg XCF-W ZA, EXC-F, EXC-F Six Days: 107.2 kg

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TECHNICAL DATA – CHASSIS »

STANDARD ADJUSTMENT – FORK

250 SX-F

250 XC-F

250 XCF-W, EXC-F

250 EXC-F Six Days

WP 4860 MXMA CC

14.18.7D.03

WP 4860 MXMA CC

14.18.7D.28

WP 4860 MXMA PA

14.18.7D.04

WP 4860 MXMA PA

14.18.7D.34

Compression adjuster

Rebound adjuster

Spring

4.4 N/mm

4.2 N/mm

2 turns

110 mm

SAE 5

4.4 N/mm

2 turns

110 mm

SAE 5

Spring preload

Air chamber length

Fork oil

–

SAE 5

STANDARD ADJUSTMENT – SHOCK ABSORBER

250 SX-F

250 XC-F

250 XCF-W, EXC-F

250 EXC-F Six Days

WP 5018 PDS DCC

12.18.7D.03

WP 5018 PDS DCC

12.18.7D.28

WP 5018 PDS DCC

12.18.7D.04

WP 5018 PDS DCC

12.18.7D.34

Compression adjuster

14 LS (low speed)

1.0 HS (high speed)

15 LS (low speed)

1.0 HS (high speed)

15 LS (low speed)

1.5 HS (high speed)

15 LS (low speed)

1.5 HS (high speed)

Rebound adjuster

Spring

66/250

5 mm

66/250

5 mm

69/250

6 mm

69/250

8 mm

Spring preload

TIGHTENING TORQUES – CHASSIS

Collar screw, front wheel spindle

Brake caliper, front

M24x1,5

40 Nm

Loctite 243 + 25 Nm

14 Nm

Brake disks

Clamping screws, upper fork bridge XCF-W ZA, EXC-F

Clamping screws, lower fork bridge XCF-W ZA, EXC-F

20 Nm

15 Nm

Clamping screws, upper fork bridge SX-F, XC-F, XCF-W USA, EXC-F Six Days

Clamping screws, lower fork bridge SX-F, XC-F, XCF-W USA, EXC-F Six Days

Clamping screw, steering stem

Clamping screws, fork stubs

17 Nm

12 Nm

Loctite 243 + 17 Nm

15 Nm

Hexagon nut, swing arm bolt

Hexagon collar screw, handlebar clamp

Allan head srew, handlebar support

Shock absorber, top

M16x1,5

100 Nm

20 Nm

M10

M12

M20x1,5

Loctite 243 + 40 Nm

Loctite 243 + 80 Nm

80 Nm

Shock absorber, bottom

Collar nut, swing arm bolt

Sprocket Screws

Loctite 243 + 35 Nm

10 Nm

Ball joint for push rod

Engine mounting bolt

M10

60 Nm

Engine brace

33 Nm

Spoke nipple

M4,5 / M5

5 Nm

Screw adjusting ring spring preload shock abs.

Other screws on chassis

5 Nm

M10

10 Nm

25 Nm

45 Nm

15 Nm

30 Nm

50 Nm

Other collar nuts on chassis

M10

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WIRING DIAGRAM »

red-white

red-black

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WIRING DIAGRAM »

headlight

multi-func.-digital-speedometer

ye-bl

bl-wh

bu-wh

ye-bl

re-wh

re-bl

ye-re

wh-re

black

ye-re

re-bl

wh-re

re-wh

ye-re

rear light/brakelight

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WIRING DIAGRAM »

headlight

multi-func.-digital-speedometer

driving light lamp

flasher control lamp

front

brake switch

C_CX/2

C_CW/2

C_CZ/3

C_CY/3

C_DB/4

C_DA/4

C_AK1/2

C_AH1/2

C_CW2/2

C_CX2/2

C_DG/4

C_BP/4

C_CW3/2

C_CX3/2

ye-bl

bl-wh

C_BA/1

C_BF/1

bu-wh

ye-re

ye-bl

re-wh

re-bl

C_BA2/1

ye-bl

ye-re

wh-re

black

ye-re

wh-re

re-bl

re-wh

ye-re

C_CR/1

C_CR1/1

wh-gn

C_BG1/3

C_AJ1/3

C_CA/4

C_CE/4

C_CX/2

C_CW/2

C_CX1/2

C_CW1/2

C_AJ/3

C_BG/3

C_DI/2

rear light/

brake light

licence plate

lamp

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WIRING DIAGRAM »

CABLE COLOURS

bl: black

ye: yellow

bu: blue

gn: green

re: red

wh: white

br: brown

or: orange

pi: pink

gr: grey

pu: purple

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HEAD WORD INDEX »

Page

Engine characteristic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Engine number, engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47

Filler cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Flasher switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Foot brake pedal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Fuel tap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Fuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

General information about KTM disc brakes . . . . . . . . . . . .33

General tips and warnings for starting the motorcycle . . . . . .16

Hand brake lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Head Word Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61

Headlamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Hot start lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

How to change the handlebar position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Important information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Indicator lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Instructions for initial operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Kickstarter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Maintenance work on chassis and engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Operation instruments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Overview of the electronic speedometer functions . . . . . . . .11

Periodic maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Pivot bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Rebound damping of fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Rebound damping of shock absorber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Refilling the front brake fluid reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Refilling the rear brake fluid reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Replacing fork springs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Replacing headlight lamp/parking light lamp . . . . . . . . . . . .41

Replacing the battery of the digital speedometer . . . . . . . . .39

Replacing the front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Replacing the glassfiber yarn packing of the silencer . . . . . .43

Replacing the rear brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Running in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Serial number locations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Setting the clock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Shift lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Shifting/Riding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Short circuit button . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Side stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Starter button . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Starting off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Starting when the engine is cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Starting when the engine is warm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Steering lock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Stopping and parking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52

Technical Data - Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55

Technical Data - Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53

Tires, air pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50

Use after a period of storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52

What to do when the engine is "flooded" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Wiring diagram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57

Activating and deactivating display modes . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Adapting the chain guide to the number of rear sprocket teeth .31

Adjusting the free travel at the hand brake lever . . . . . . . . .34

Adjusting the throttle cables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Basic information on carburetor wear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Basic suspension setup for the weight of the driver . . . . . . .25

Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Bleeding of the hydraulic clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45

Bleeding the cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Braking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Breather plug front fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Carburetor - Adjust idling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Chain maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Chain wear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Changing the basic position of the foot brake pedal . . . . . . .35

Changing the engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

Changing the fork offset (caster) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Changing the oil filters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49

Changing the original position of the clutch lever . . . . . . . . .45

Changing the spring preload on the telescopic fork . . . . . . .26

Changing the spring preloading of the shock absorber . . . . .24

Charging the battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Chassis number . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Check chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Check the following before each start . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Check/set distance of the magnetic sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Checking and adjusting the steering head bearing . . . . . . . .27

Checking spoke tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Checking the basic setup of the telescopic fork . . . . . . . . . .26

Checking the brake fluid level - front brake . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Checking the coolant level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Checking the engine oil level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47

Checking the float level (float height) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Checking the front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Checking the oil level of the hydraulic clutch . . . . . . . . . . .45

Checking the rear brake fluid level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Checking the rear brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Checking the shock absorber and spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Choke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52

Cleaning the air filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Cleaning the dust sleeves of the telescopic fork . . . . . . . . . .27

Cleaning the spark arrester . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

Clutch lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Combination switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Compression damping of fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Compression damping of shock absorber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Conservation for winter operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Correct chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Determining the riding sag of the shock absorber . . . . . . . . .25

Determining the static sag of the shock absorber . . . . . . . . .25

Dismounting and mounting the front wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Dismounting and mounting the rear wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Draining the float chamber of the carburetor . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Driving instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Electronic speedometer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Emergency OFF switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

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*3211228en*

3211228en

KTM Group Partner

KTM-Sportmotorcycle AG

A–5230 Mattighofen

www.ktm.com

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