Operation Manual
Computerized Sewing Machine
GETTING READY
Read before use.
SEWING BASICS
UTILITY STITCHES
Read when additional
information is required.
APPENDIX
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Important Safety Instructions
Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.
This machine is intended for household use.
DANGER
- To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1
Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,
when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the
machine unattended.
WARNING
- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.
2
Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual:
• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp
the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
• Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.
3
Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest
authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such an odor, heat,
discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine and immediately unplug the power cord.
4
Always keep your work area clear:
• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
• Do not store objects on the foot controller.
• Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.
• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine,
power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.
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5
Special care is required when sewing:
• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.
• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
• Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments
in the needle area.
• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.
• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching
so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.
6
This machine is not a toy:
• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.
• Do not use outdoors.
7
For a longer service life:
• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store
the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet,
needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
8
For repair or adjustment:
• If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table
in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem
persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.
Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
Save these instructions.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com
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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
IMPORTANT
• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the
mark, rating as marked on plug.
• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you
should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.
FOR USERS IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND
This sewing machine is not intended to be used by young children, and assistance may be required if
used by a person with a disability.
3
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Contents
Important Safety Instructions..............................................................................................1
Introduction ........................................................................................................................7
Sewing Machine Features....................................................................................................7
Accessories..........................................................................................................................8
Included accessories .........................................................................................................................................8
Optional accessories.........................................................................................................................................9
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ...................................................................10
Front view.......................................................................................................................................................10
Needle and presser foot section ......................................................................................................................11
Right-side/rear view ........................................................................................................................................11
Operation buttons...........................................................................................................................................12
Operation panel..............................................................................................................................................13
GETTING READY
15
Turning the Machine On/Off.............................................................................................16
Power supply precautions ...............................................................................................................................16
Turning on the machine..................................................................................................................................17
Turning off the machine..................................................................................................................................17
Understanding the LCD Screens........................................................................................18
Changing the Machine Settings .........................................................................................19
Changing the settings ......................................................................................................................................19
Adjusting the brightness of the LCD ................................................................................................................21
Changing the screen language.................................................................................................................................. 21
Winding/Installing the Bobbin...........................................................................................22
Bobbin precautions.........................................................................................................................................22
Winding the bobbin........................................................................................................................................22
Installing the bobbin .......................................................................................................................................26
Upper Threading ...............................................................................................................28
Threading the upper thread.............................................................................................................................28
Threading the needle ......................................................................................................................................31
Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)................................................................33
Using the twin needle .....................................................................................................................................33
Pulling up the bobbin thread...........................................................................................................................36
Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................37
Needle precautions.........................................................................................................................................37
Needle types and their uses.............................................................................................................................38
Checking the needle .......................................................................................................................................39
Replacing the needle.......................................................................................................................................39
Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................41
Presser foot precautions ..................................................................................................................................41
Replacing the presser foot ...............................................................................................................................41
Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot ........................................................................................................43
Removing the presser foot holder....................................................................................................................43
Using the walking foot ....................................................................................................................................44
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces....................................................................................46
Stitching cylindrical pieces..............................................................................................................................46
Sewing large pieces of fabric...........................................................................................................................46
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SEWING BASICS
49
Sewing...............................................................................................................................50
General sewing procedure ..............................................................................................................................50
Positioning the fabric ......................................................................................................................................51
Starting to sew.................................................................................................................................................52
Securing the stitching......................................................................................................................................54
Cutting the thread ...........................................................................................................................................55
Adjusting the Thread Tension............................................................................................57
Changing the tension of the upper thread........................................................................................................57
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length..............................................................................58
Adjusting the stitch width................................................................................................................................58
Adjusting the stitch length...............................................................................................................................59
Useful Functions................................................................................................................60
Changing the needle stop position ..................................................................................................................60
Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches................................................................................................ 60
Automatically cutting the thread .....................................................................................................................62
Saving stitch settings .......................................................................................................................................63
Hands-free raising and lowering of the presser foot.........................................................................................64
Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................65
Trial sewing ....................................................................................................................................................65
Changing the sewing direction................................................................................................................................. 65
Sewing curves.................................................................................................................................................65
Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................66
Sewing thin fabrics..........................................................................................................................................66
Sewing stretch fabrics......................................................................................................................................66
Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics.......................................................................................................................67
Sewing an even seam allowance.....................................................................................................................67
UTILITY STITCHES
69
Selecting Stitching.............................................................................................................70
Selecting stitch types and patterns...................................................................................................................70
Selecting stitching ...........................................................................................................................................72
Overcasting Stitches..........................................................................................................76
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” ...................................................................................76
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”.............................................................................................77
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter ...............................................................................78
Basic Stitching...................................................................................................................80
Basting............................................................................................................................................................80
Basic stitching.................................................................................................................................................81
Blind Hem Stitching ..........................................................................................................82
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing..................................................................................84
Buttonhole sewing ..........................................................................................................................................85
Button sewing .................................................................................................................................................89
Zipper Insertion.................................................................................................................91
Inserting a centered zipper..............................................................................................................................91
Inserting a side zipper .....................................................................................................................................93
Zipper/piping Insertion .....................................................................................................96
Inserting a centered zipper..............................................................................................................................96
Inserting a piping ............................................................................................................................................97
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape............................................................................98
Stretch stitching...............................................................................................................................................98
Elastic attaching ..............................................................................................................................................98
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Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ........................................................................100
Appliqué stitching.........................................................................................................................................101
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ...................................................................................................................102
Piecing..........................................................................................................................................................102
Quilting ........................................................................................................................................................103
Free-motion quilting......................................................................................................................................104
Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller...........................................................................................105
Reinforcement Stitching..................................................................................................107
Triple stretch stitching...................................................................................................................................107
Bar tack stitching...........................................................................................................................................107
Darning.........................................................................................................................................................109
Eyelet Stitching................................................................................................................111
Decorative Stitching........................................................................................................112
Fagoting........................................................................................................................................................113
Scallop stitching............................................................................................................................................114
Smocking......................................................................................................................................................114
Shell tuck stitching........................................................................................................................................115
Joining ..........................................................................................................................................................116
Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................116
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns.............................................................119
Sewing beautiful patterns ..............................................................................................................................119
Sewing patterns.............................................................................................................................................119
Combining patterns.......................................................................................................................................120
Repeat sewing patterns..................................................................................................................................121
Checking the selected pattern .......................................................................................................................121
Changing the pattern size..............................................................................................................................122
Changing the stitch density ...........................................................................................................................123
Changing the pattern length ..........................................................................................................................124
Mirror imaging the pattern ............................................................................................................................125
Saving patterns..............................................................................................................................................126
Retrieving a pattern.......................................................................................................................................126
Realigning the pattern ...................................................................................................................................127
Designing a Pattern .........................................................................................................129
Drawing a sketch of the pattern.....................................................................................................................129
Entering the pattern data ...............................................................................................................................130
Examples of designs ......................................................................................................................................132
APPENDIX
133
Stitch Settings..................................................................................................................134
Utility stitches ...............................................................................................................................................134
Other stitches................................................................................................................................................138
Care and Maintenance ....................................................................................................142
Cleaning the machine surface................................................................................................................................ 142
Cleaning the race..........................................................................................................................................142
Troubleshooting ..............................................................................................................144
Error messages ..............................................................................................................................................148
Nothing appears in the LCD..........................................................................................................................149
Operation beep.............................................................................................................................................149
Cancelling the operation beep ............................................................................................................................... 149
Index ................................................................................................................................151
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Introduction
Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the
“Important Safety Instructions” (page 1), and then study this manual for the correct operation of the
various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be
accessed for future reference.
Sewing Machine Features
a
Easy upper threading
Since the spool can be installed at the front of the sewing machine, the upper thread can easily be threaded. In addition,
the needle can be threaded with a simple operation (page 28).
b
c
d
e
f
Automatic thread-cutting
The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the thread at the end of the stitching (page 62).
One-touch lower threading
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread (page 26).
Simple bobbin-winding
The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thread (page 22).
Built-in stitches
You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches, character stitches and decorative stitches.
Knee lifter
Use the knee lifter to raise and lower the presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free to handle the fabric (page
64).
Introduction 7
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Accessories
After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or
damaged, contact your dealer.
Included accessories
The following items should also be included in the box.
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
z Foot controller: Model N5V
This foot controller can be used on this machine model
NX-450.
z The screw for the presser foot holder is available
through your authorized dealer.
(Part code: XA4813-051)
z The organized accessory tray is available through your
authorized dealer.
(Part code: XC4489-051)
■ Attaching the stitch pattern plate
The stitch pattern plate shows the stitch numbers and the patterns available with each stitch mode. Attach
the stitch pattern plate to the handle as shown in the illustration below.
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1.
2.
3.
4.
6.
7.
9.
5.
8.
10.
20.
29.
11.
21.
12.
22.
30.
13.
23.
31.
14.
24.
32.
15.
25.
16.*
26.
18.
28.
35.
19.
17.
27.
33.
34.
*75/11 2 needles
90/14 2 needles
90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)
Part Code
Part Code
No.
Part Name
No.
Part Name
U.S.A./
Canada
U.S.A./
Canada
Others
Others
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Buttonhole foot “A”
Overcasting foot “G”
Monogramming foot “N”
Zipper foot “I”
Zigzag foot “J” (on machine)
Blind stitch foot “R”
Button fitting foot “M”
Walking foot
XC2691-053
XC3098-051
X53840-351
X59370-051
XC3021-051
X56409-051
130489-001
19 Eyelet punch
135793-001
XC8349-051
X55468-051
130012-054
X55260-153
130013-154
XC4654-051
XA5523-050
20 Screwdriver (large)
21 Screwdriver (small)
22 Spool cap (large)
23 Spool cap (medium)(2)
24 Spool cap (small)
25 Extra spool pin
SA140 F033N (XC2214-002) 26 Spool net
SA129 F005N (XC1948-002)
SA160 F035 (XC1969-002)
Quilting foot
XD0496-051 (EU area)
XC6651-151 (other areas)
SA527 GS4 (XC4549-050)
XA6941-052
27 Foot controller
10 Stitch guide foot “P”
11 Adjustable zipper/piping foot SA161 F036N (XC1970-002) 28 Grid sheet set
12 Non stick foot
13 Open toe foot
14 Seam ripper
15 Bobbin (4)
SA114 F007N (XC1949-002) 29 Knee lifter
SA147 F027N (XC1964-002) 30 Operation manual
X54243-051
SA156 SFB (XA5539-151) 32 Hard case
XE0403-001
XE0404-001
XC9701-052
31 Quick reference guide
16 Needle set
17 Twin needle
18 Cleaning brush
X58358-051
X59296-151
X59476-051
33 Accessory bag
34 Disc-shaped screwdriver
35 Stitch pattern plate
XC4487-051
XC1074-051
XE0539-001
Optional accessories
The following are available as optional accessories.
1. 2. 3.
4.
5.
1. Side cutter
2. Quilting guide
3. Wide table
Part code: SA177, F054(XC3879-002)
Part code: SA132, F016N(XC2215-002)
Part code: SA551, WT5(XC9567-152)
4. 1/4 inch quilting foot Part code: SA125, F001N(XC1944-052)
1/4 inch quilting
foot with guide
5.
Part code: SA185, F057(XC7416-252)
Memo
z To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact your sales representative or the nearest authorized
service center.
Accessories 9
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before
using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.
Front view
2
1
3
4
5
D
6
C
B
A
7
0
9
8
a
b
Thread guide plate
j
Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment
Store presser feet and bobbins in the accessory
compartment of the flat bed attachment. When sewing
cylindrical pieces, remove the flat bed attachment.
Pass the thread under the thread guide plate.
Thread guide cover
Pass the thread behind the thread guide cover when
threading the upper thread.
k
l
m
Thread cutter
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
c
d
Spool pin
Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.
Needle threader lever
Use the needle threader to thread the needle.
Bobbin winding thread guide and pretension disk
Pass the thread under this thread guide and around the
pretension disk when winding the bobbin thread.
Thread take-up lever check window
Look through the window to check the position of the
take-up lever.
e
Top cover
Open the top cover to place the spool of thread on the
spool pin.
n
Thread tension dial
Use the thread tension dial to adjust the tension of the
upper thread.
f
g
Bobbin winder
Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.
Operation panel
Use for stitch selection and various stitch functions.
(page 13)
h
i
Knee lifter mounting slot
Insert the knee lifter into the knee lifter mounting slot.
Operation buttons and sewing speed controller
Use these buttons and the slide to operate the sewing
machine. (page 12)
10
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Needle and presser foot
section
Right-side/rear view
a
Presser foot dial
a
Buttonhole lever
Use the presser foot dial to adjust the amount of
pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric.
The buttonhole lever is used with the one-step
buttonhole foot to create buttonholes.
b
c
Handle
b
c
d
e
Thread guide disk
Pass the thread through the thread guide disk when
using the needle threader to thread the needle.
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when
transporting the machine.
Handwheel
Needle bar thread guide
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread
guide.
Turn the handwheel toward you to raise and lower the
needle. The handwheel should be turned towards you
(counterclockwise).
Needle plate
The needle plate is marked with guides to help sew
straight seams.
d
Air vent
The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to
circulate. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing
machine is being used.
Needle plate cover
Remove the needle plate cover to clean the bobbin case
and race.
e
f
g
Main power switch
Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine
ON and OFF.
f
g
h
Bobbin cover
Open the bobbin cover to set the bobbin.
Foot controller jack
Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable
into the foot controller jack.
Feed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
Presser foot
Power supply jack
Insert the plug on the power cord into the power supply
jack.
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the
fabric as sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate
presser foot for the selected stitch.
h
i
Feed dog position switch
Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.
i
Presser foot holder
The presser foot is attached onto the presser foot holder.
Presser foot lever
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower
the presser foot.
Memo
z Refer to pages 9 through 12 while you are
learning to use your machine.
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions 11
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Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.
a
“Start/Stop” button
CAUTION
Press the “Start/Stop” button to start or stop sewing. The
machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of
sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is
stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details,
refer to “Starting to sew” (page 52).
The button lights up in green, red or orange, depending
on how the sewing machine is being operated.
● Do not press
(“Thread Cutter”
button) after the threads have already
been cut, otherwise the needle may
break, the threads may become tangled
or damage to the machine may occur.
Green:
When the machine is ready to start
sewing or while it is sewing
Red:
When the machine is not ready to
start sewing
Note
Orange:
When the bobbin winder shaft is
moved to the right for winding the
bobbin thread onto the bobbin
z Do not press
(“Thread Cutter” button) if
there is no fabric under the presser foot or
while the machine is sewing, otherwise
damage to the machine may occur.
z When cutting thread thicker than #30, nylon
thread or other special threads, use the
thread cutter on the side of the machine. For
details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page
55).
b
“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button
Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew
reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse
stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to
sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches
are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.
For details, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 54).
c
d
“Needle Position” button
Press the “Needle Position” button to raise or lower the
needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
“Thread Cutter” button
Press the “Thread Cutter” button after stopping sewing
to cut both the upper and the bobbin threads. For
details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 55).
e
Sewing speed controller
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing
speed.
12
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Operation panel
The operation panel, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, consists of the LCD (liquid crystal
display) and keys for specifying various sewing settings.
1
2
3
4
5
6
8
7
C
9
0
D
A
B
E
F
H
G
a
b
LCD (liquid crystal display)
■ Stitch mode keys (i-l)
Settings for the selected stitch and error messages for
incorrect operations appear in the LCD. Use keys b
and g through r, described below, to display various
items and select the settings. For details, refer to
“Understanding the LCD Screens” (page 18).
i
Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key
Press this key to select the utility stitch assigned to a numeric
key or to retrieve a pattern that has been saved.
Each time this key is pressed, the machine switches between
the preset utility stitch mode and the saved pattern mode.
Settings key
j
Utility stitch key
Press this key to select sewing settings, such as for left/
right mirror imaging, or other settings such as the
operation beep.
Press this key to select a straight stitch, zigzag stitch,
buttonhole, blind hem stitch, or other stitches
commonly used in garment sewing. Use the numeric
keys to type in the number of the desired stitch.
c
d
e
Needle stop position key
Press this key to select where the needle is positioned
when the sewing machine is stopped.
k
Decorative stitch key
Press this key to select a decorative stitch, satin stitch, cross-
stitch or decorative satin stitch. Each time this key is pressed,
the stitch group switches between
Automatic thread cutting key
Press this key to select the automatic thread cutting
setting. Press this key again to cancel the setting.
and
.
l
m
Character stitch key
Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key
Press this key to select a character stitch. Each time this key
is pressed, the font switches to one of the three available.
Press this key to select the automatic reverse/
reinforcement stitching setting. Press this key again to
cancel the setting.
Manual memory key
Press this key to save the adjusted stitch width and
length settings.
f
Needle mode selection key (single/twin)
n
o
Reset key
Press this key to select the twin needle sewing setting.
Each time this key is pressed, the setting switches
between that for single needle sewing and for twin
needle sewing.
Press this key to reset the selected stitch to its original settings.
Memory key
Press this key to save stitch patterns, such as combined
patterns and My Custom Stitch patterns, in the sewing
machine's memory.
g
h
Stitch width keys
Press
Stitch length keys
Press or to adjust the stitch length setting.
or
to adjust the stitch width setting.
p
q
OK key
Press this key to apply the selection or perform the operation.
Cancel/clear key
Press this key to cancel the operation and return to the
previous screen.
In addition, pressing this key removes the last pattern
added when combining characters or decorative stitches.
r
Numeric keys
Use these keys to quickly select one of the ten most
often used stitches. When selecting other stitches, use
these keys to type in the number of the desired stitch.
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions 13
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14
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1
GETTING READY
The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter.
T
Turning the Machine On/Off..................................................................................16
Power supply precautions ..................................................................................16
Turning on the machine .....................................................................................17
Turning off the machine.....................................................................................17
Understanding the LCD Screens..............................................................................18
Changing the Machine Settings ...............................................................................19
Changing the settings .........................................................................................19
Adjusting the brightness of the LCD...................................................................21
Changing the screen language ..............................................................................21
Winding/Installing the Bobbin.................................................................................22
Bobbin precautions ............................................................................................22
Winding the bobbin ...........................................................................................22
Installing the bobbin ..........................................................................................26
Upper Threading.....................................................................................................28
Threading the upper thread................................................................................28
Threading the needle..........................................................................................31
Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)..................33
Using the twin needle ........................................................................................33
Pulling up the bobbin thread..............................................................................36
Replacing the Needle ..............................................................................................37
Needle precautions ............................................................................................37
Needle types and their uses................................................................................38
Checking the needle...........................................................................................39
Replacing the needle..........................................................................................39
Replacing the Presser Foot ......................................................................................41
Presser foot precautions.....................................................................................41
Replacing the presser foot..................................................................................41
Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot ..........................................................43
Removing the presser foot holder ......................................................................43
Using the walking foot .......................................................................................44
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces..........................................................................46
Stitching cylindrical pieces.................................................................................46
Sewing large pieces of fabric..............................................................................46
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
Turning the Machine On/Off
This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.
Power supply precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.
WARNING
● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
• Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet
and the power supply jack on the machine.
• Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms
CAUTION
● Use only the power cord included with this machine.
● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to
them. Fire or electric shock may result.
● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to
remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric
shock.
● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,
or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These
things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged,
take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a
fire may result.
16
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Turning on the machine
Turning off the machine
Prepare the included power cord.
When you are finished using the sewing machine,
turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing
machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.
Make sure that the sewing machine is turned
1
a
off (the main power switch is set to “ ”), and
then plug the power cord into the power
supply jack on the right side of the machine.
Make sure that the machine is not sewing.
a
Press the left side of the main power switch on
the right side of the machine (set it to “ ”).
b
Insert the plug of the power cord into a
household electrical outlet.
b
1
X The sewing lamp and the LCD go off when
the machine is turned off.
Unplug the power cord from the electrical
outlet.
c
Grasp the plug when unplugging the power
cord.
a
Power supply jack
Unplug the power cord from the power supply
jack.
d
Press the right side of the main power switch
on the right side of the machine (set it to “|”).
c
Note
z If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the
sewing machine and unplug the power cord.
When restarting the sewing machine, follow
the necessary procedure to correctly operate
the machine.
X The sewing lamp and the LCD come on
(For U.S.A. only)
when the machine is turned on.
z This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended
to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If
the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact
a qualified electrician to install the proper
outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
Turning the Machine On/Off 17
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
Understanding the LCD Screens
The LCD screen, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, displays the settings for the
selected stitch and error messages if operations are performed incorrectly.When the sewing machine is
turned on, the LCD comes on and the following screen appears.
3
1
4
5
2
a
b
c
d
e
Presser foot that should be used
Stitch mode
Selected stitch
Stitch length (mm)
Stitch width (mm)
Memo
z For details on the error messages that appear when an operation is performed incorrectly, refer to “Error
messages” (page 148).
18
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Changing the Machine Settings
Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed.
Press
or
(Stitch length keys) until the
1
c
Changing the settings
stitch or machine attribute that you wish to set
is displayed.
The general procedure for changing machine settings
is described below.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
1
a
Stitch length keys
X The LCD comes on.
Press
panel.
(Settings key) in the operation
b
X The settings screen appears.
Press
or
(Stitch width keys) until the
d
desired setting is selected.
X The setting is changed.
Press
key).
(OK key) or
(Cancel/clear
e
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
Changing the Machine Settings 19
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
■ List of stitch or machine attributes
The stitch or machine attributes that can be set are listed below. For details on each attribute, refer to the
corresponding reference page.
Attribute
Icon
Details
Reference
Check pattern
Allows combined patterns to be checked.
page 121
Mirror imaging
Pattern length
Pattern size
Mirror images patterns along a vertical axis.
Adjusts the length of satin stitches.
page 125
page 124
page 122
page 121
page 123
-
Sets the size of patterns to be large or small.
Repeated/
single sewing
Specifies whether the pattern will be sewn once or
repeatedly.
Stitching
density
Specifies the sewing density of the stitching.
Initial needle
position
Select the straight stitch that is automatically selected
when the machine is turned on.
Stitch width
control
Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with the sewing
speed controller.
page 105
Allows the language used in the screens to be
changed.
Language
page 21
page 149
page 21
Specifies whether or not a beep is sounded with each
operation.
Buzzer
LCD brightness
Adjusts the brightness of the LCD.
Verticalpattern
adjustment
Adjusts the up and down position of the pattern.
page 127
Memo
z The icon shown highlighted above is the default setting.
z The default display language is English.
20
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Adjusting the brightness of
the LCD
Changing the screen language
The language used in the screens that are displayed
can be changed to one of the many available.
The brightness of the LCD can be adjusted.
1
Press
(Settings key) in the operation
or (Stitch length
Press
panel, and then press
keys) until is displayed.
(Settings key) in the operation
a
a
or (Stitch length
panel, and then press
keys) until the language is displayed.
X The screen for changing the language of the
X The screen for changing the brightness of the
screens appears.
LCD appears.
Press
or
(Stitch width keys) until the
To make the LCD brighter, press
width key). To make the LCD darker, press
(Stitch width key).
(Stitch
b
b
desired language is selected.
The language can be changed to one of the
available: English, French, German, Dutch,
Spanish, Italian, Danish, Norwegian, Finnish,
Swedish, Portuguese, Russian, Japanese,
Korean or others.
X The brightness of the LCD is changed.
X The language of the screens is changed.
Press
key).
(OK key) or
(Cancel/clear
c
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
Press
key).
(OK key) or
(Cancel/clear
c
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
Changing the Machine Settings 21
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.
Bobbin precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin.
CAUTION
● Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)) designed specifically for this
sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
● The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other
models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)).
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
Other model
This model
Winding the bobbin
Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread.
1
a
Bobbin winder
Memo
z The order that the machine should be threaded for winding the bobbin is indicated by a broken line on
the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.
22
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Turn on the sewing machine.
Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto
the spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front
at the bottom.
a
b
c
f
1
Open the top cover.
• If the spool is not positioned so that the
thread unwinds correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin.
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so
that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch
in the bobbin.
Press down on the bobbin until it snaps into
place.
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the
right, as shown, with the rounded side on the
left.
g
1
2
CAUTION
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin and
the needle may break.
● Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small), allowing you to
choose a spool cap that best fits the size
of spool being used. If the spool cap is too
small for the spool being used, the thread
may catch on the slit in the spool and the
needle may break.
a
b
Notch
Bobbin winder shaft spring
Slide the bobbin winder in the direction of the
arrow until it snaps into place.
d
•
(“Start/Stop” button) lights up in orange.
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the
spool pin.
e
1
2
a
b
Spool pin
Spool cap
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 23
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
While holding the thread near the spool with
your right hand, as shown, pull the thread with
your left hand, and then pass the thread
h
Memo
z When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread,
use the small spool cap, and leave a small
space between the cap and the spool.
behind the thread guide cover and to the front.
1
b
c
a
a
b
c
Spool cap (small)
Spool (cross-wound thread)
Space
a
Thread guide cover
z When using thread that winds off quickly,
such as transparent nylon thread or metallic
thread, place the spool net over the spool
before placing the spool of thread onto the
spool pin.
Pass the thread under the thread guide plate,
and then pull it to the right.
i
If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the
size of the spool.
When the spool net is used, the tension of
the upper thread will slightly increase. Be
sure to check the thread tension. For details,
refer to “Adjusting the Thread Tension”
(page 57).
1
Thread guide plate
1
2
a
Pass the thread under the hook on the thread
guide, and then wind it counterclockwise
under the pretension disk.
j
1
3
4
a
b
c
d
Spool net
Spool
Spool cap
Spool pin
1
a
Thread guide and pretension disk
Note
z Make sure that the thread passes under the
pretension disk.
24
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
While holding the thread with your left hand,
wind the thread that was pulled out clockwise
around the bobbin five or six times with your
right hand.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
to increase the bobbin winding speed and slide
to left to decrease.
k
m
1
1
a
Sewing speed controller
Note
Press
(“Start/Stop” button) once.
z Make sure that the thread between the spool
and the bobbin is pulled tight.
z Be sure to wind the thread clockwise around
the bobbin, otherwise the thread will
become wrapped around the bobbin winder
shaft.
n
Pass the end of the thread through the guide
slit in the bobbin winder seat, and then pull
the thread to the right to cut it.
1
l
a
“Start/Stop” button
• When the bobbin winding becomes slow,
press (“Start/Stop” button) once to stop
the machine.
CAUTION
1
● When the bobbin winding becomes slow,
stop the machine, otherwise the sewing
machine may be damaged.
a
Guide slit in bobbin winder seat
(with built-in cutter)
X The thread is cut to a suitable length.
Use scissors to cut the end of the thread
wound around the bobbin.
o
CAUTION
● Be sure to cut the thread as described. If
the bobbin is wound without cutting the
thread using the cutter built into the slit in
the bobbin winder seat, the thread may
become tangled in the bobbin and the
needle may bend or break when the
bobbin thread starts to run out.
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left.
p
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 25
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
Remove the bobbin from the shaft.
Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.
q
a
1
2
a
b
Bobbin cover
Latch
Memo
X The bobbin cover opens.
z When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the
bobbin, the machine will make a clicking
sound; this is not a malfunction.
Remove the bobbin cover.
b
c
Hold the bobbin with your right hand and hold
the end of the thread with your left.
Installing the bobbin
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
CAUTION
● Use a bobbin that has been correctly
wound with thread, otherwise the needle
may break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.
• Be careful not to drop the bobbin.
Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case so that
the thread unrolls to the left.
d
●
The bobbin was designed specifically for
this sewing machine. If bobbins from other
models are used, the machine will not
operate correctly. Use only the included
bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part
code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)).
• Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly.
CAUTION
● Be sure to install the bobbin so that the
thread unwinds in the correct direction,
otherwise the thread may break or the
thread tension will be incorrect.
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model
Other model
Memo
z The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated
by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to
thread the machine as indicated.
26
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Memo
Note
z The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated
by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to
thread the machine as indicated.
The marks around the bobbin case differ
depending on the model.
z Make sure that the thread is correctly
inserted through the tension-adjusting spring
of the bobbin case. If it is not inserted
correctly, reinsert the thread.
1
1
a
Tension-adjusting spring
Reattach the bobbin cover.
g
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on
the right side.
Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right
hand, and then guide the thread as shown with
your left hand.
e
2
1
X The lower threading is finished.
Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with
the procedure in “Upper Threading” (page 28).
CAUTION
Memo
● When installing the bobbin, be sure to
hold it down with your finger. If the
bobbin is not correctly installed, the
thread tension will be incorrect.
z You can begin sewing without pulling up the
bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the
bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull up
the thread according to the procedure in
“Pulling up the bobbin thread” (page 36).
Pass the thread through the slot as shown, and
then pull the thread out toward the front.
f
1
a
Cutter
X The cutter cuts the thread.
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 27
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
Upper Threading
In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are
described.
Threading the upper thread
CAUTION
● When threading the upper thread,
carefully follow the instructions. If the
upper threading is not correct, the thread
may become tangled and the needle may
bend or break.
Set the spool of thread on the spool pin, and then
thread the machine.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
Memo
z The order that the machine should be
threaded is indicated by a solid line on the
sewing machine. Be sure to thread the
machine as indicated.
Raise the presser foot lever to raise the presser foot.
b
a
a
Presser foot lever
Note
z If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing
machine cannot be threaded.
28
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Press
(“Needle Position” button) once or
Place the spool of thread onto the spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front
at the bottom.
c
f
twice to raise the needle.
1
1
a
“Needle Position” button
X The needle is correctly raised when the mark
on the handwheel is at the top, as shown
below. Check the handwheel and, if this
mark is not at this position, press
CAUTION
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin and
the needle may break.
(“Needle Position” button) until it is.
1
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
g
Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the
right, as shown, with the rounded side on the
left.
a
Mark on handwheel
Open the top cover.
d
CAUTION
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin and
the needle may break.
● Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small), allowing you to
choose a spool cap that best fits the size
of spool being used. If the spool cap is too
small for the spool being used, the thread
may catch on the slit in the spool and the
needle may break.
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the
spool pin.
e
1
2
a
b
Spool pin
Spool cap
Upper Threading 29
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
While holding the thread lightly with your
h
Note
right hand, pull the thread with your left hand,
and then pass the thread behind the thread
guide cover and to the front.
z If the presser foot has been lowered and the
shutter is closed, the machine cannot be
threaded. Be sure to raise the presser foot
and open the shutter before threading the
machine. In addition, before removing the
upper thread, be sure to raise the presser foot
and open the shutter.
1
z This machine is equipped with a window
that allows you to check the position of the
take-up lever. Look through this window and
check that the thread is correctly fed through
the take-up lever.
a
Thread guide cover
Pass the thread under the thread guide plate,
and then pull it up.
i
1
Pass the thread behind the needle bar thread
guide.
k
The thread can easily be passed behind the
needle bar thread guide by holding the thread
in your left hand, then feeding the thread with
your right hand, as shown.
a
Thread guide plate
While using your right hand to lightly hold the
thread passed under the thread guide plate,
pass the thread through the thread path in the
order shown below.
j
1
1
a
Needle bar thread guide
Next, use the needle threader to thread the
needle. Continue with the procedure in
“Threading the needle” (page 31).
a
Shutter
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Cut the thread with the thread cutter on the
left side of the machine.
b
Threading the needle
1
This section describes how to thread the needle.
1
Memo
z The needle threader can be used with
sewing machine needles 75/11 through
100/16.
a
Thread cutter
z Thread with a thickness of 130/20 or thicker
cannot be used with the needle threader.
z The needle threader cannot be used with the
wing needle or the twin needle.
Note
z If the needle threader cannot be used, refer
to “Threading the needle manually (without
using the needle threader)” (page 33).
z If the thread is pulled through and cannot be
cut correctly, lower the presser foot so that
the thread is held in place before cutting the
thread. If this operation is performed, skip
step
c
.
Pull the end of the thread passed through the
needle bar thread guide to the left, and then
pass the thread through the thread guide disk
from the front.
z When using thread that quickly winds off the
spool, such as metallic thread, it may be
difficult to thread the needle if the thread is
cut.
a
Therefore, instead of using the thread cutter,
pull out about 80 mm (approx. 3 inches) of
thread after passing it through the thread
guide disks (marked “7”).
1
1
a
80 mm (3 inches) or more
Lower the presser foot lever to lower the
presser foot.
c
a
Thread guide disk
1
a
Presser foot lever
Upper Threading 31
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
Lower the needle threader lever on the left
side of the machine until it clicks, and then
slowly return the lever to its original position.
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the
thread through the presser foot, and then pull
out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the
rear of the machine.
d
e
1
1
a
5 cm (2 inches)
X The upper threading is finished.
Now that the upper threading and the lower
threading are finished, you are ready to
begin sewing.
a
Needle threader lever
X The thread is passed through the eye of the
needle.
Note
Note
z If the needle is not raised, the needle
threader cannot thread the needle. Be sure
z If the needle was not completely threaded,
but a loop in the thread was formed in the
eye of the needle, carefully pull the loop
through the eye of the needle to pull out the
end of the thread.
to press
(“Needle Position” button) to
raise the needle before using the needle
threader.
CAUTION
● When pulling out the thread, do not pull
it with extreme force, otherwise the
needle may break or bend.
32
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Threading the needle manually
(without using the needle threader)
Using the twin needle
With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines
of the same stitch with two different threads. Both
upper threads should have the same thickness and
quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the extra
spool pin and the spool cap.
When using special thread, thread with a thickness of
130/20 or thicker, the wing needle or the twin needle
which cannot be used with the needle threader,
thread the needle as described below.
1
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the
twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 134).
Thread the machine to the needle bar thread
guide.
a
• For details, refer to “Upper Threading” (page
28).
Lower the presser foot lever.
b
CAUTION
● Only use the twin needle (part code:
X59296-151). Use of any other needle
may bend the needle or damage the
machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
1
a
Pressor foot lever
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from front to back.
c
Install the twin needle.
a
• For details on installing a needle, refer to
“Replacing the needle” (page 39).
Thread the upper thread for the left needle
eye.
b
• For details, refer to steps
a
through
k
of
“Threading the upper thread” (page 28).
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the
thread through the presser foot, and then pull
out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the
rear of the machine.
d
Manually thread the left needle with the upper
thread.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
c
from the front.
• The needle threader cannot be used with the
twin needle. If the needle threader is used
with the twin needle, the sewing machine
may be damaged.
Upper Threading 33
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
Insert the extra spool pin onto the bobbin
winder shaft.
Insert the extra spool pin so that it is
Thread the upper thread for the right side in
the same way that the upper thread for the left
side was threaded.
d
g
perpendicular to the bobbin winder shaft.
1
1
a
Thread guide cover
a
Bobbin winder shaft
• For details, refer to step
“Threading the upper thread” (page 28).
h
through
j
of
Swing down the spool pin so that it is
horizontal.
e
Without passing the thread through the needle
bar thread guide, manually thread the right
needle.
h
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front.
Place the upper thread spool for the needle on
the right side onto the extra spool pin, and
then secure it with the spool cap.
The thread should unroll from the top front of
the spool.
f
• The needle threader cannot be used with the
twin needle. If the needle threader is used
with the twin needle, the sewing machine
may be damaged.
1
2
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
i
• For details on changing the presser foot, refer
to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).
a
b
Spool cap
Spool
CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the
needle may break or the machine may be
damaged.
Turn on the sewing machine.
j
X The LCD comes on.
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Select a stitch.
Start sewing.
k
m
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 72).
• For details on starting to sew, refer to
“Starting to sew” (page 52).
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings”
(page 134).
X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to
each other.
1
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
CAUTION
Press
(Needle mode selection key).
l
● When changing the sewing direction,
press (“Needle Position” button) to
raise the needle from the fabric, and then
raise the presser foot lever and turn the
fabric. Otherwise the needle may break
or the machine may be damaged.
● Do not try turning the fabric with the
twin needle left down in the fabric,
otherwise the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.
X
(Needle mode selection key) lights up,
and the twin needle can now be used.
• To return to single needle sewing, press
(Needle mode selection key) until the key is
no longer lit.
• Even after the sewing machine is turned off,
the twin needle setting is not cancelled.
CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
select the twin needle setting, otherwise
the needle may break or the machine may
be damaged.
Upper Threading 35
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
Pull out about 10-15 cm (4-5 inches) of the
bobbin thread under the presser foot toward
e
Pulling up the bobbin thread
the rear of the machine.
When making gathers or before free-motion quilting,
first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.
Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.
a
• Refer to steps
a
through
e
of “Installing the
bobbin” (page 26).
Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.
Do not cut the thread with the cutter.
b
Reattach the bobbin cover.
f
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on
the right side.
2
While lightly holding the upper thread with
your left hand with the needle in the up-
c
position, press
(“Needle Position” button)
twice to lower and raise the needle.
1
1
a
“Needle Position” button
X The bobbin thread is looped around the
upper thread and can be pulled up.
Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull
out the end of the bobbin thread.
d
36
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Replacing the Needle
This section provides information on sewing machine needles.
1
Needle precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these
precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to
read and carefully follow the instructions below.
CAUTION
● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or
damage the machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
Replacing the Needle 37
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
Needle types and their uses
The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the
following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
Thread
Fabric Type/Application
Broadcloth
Size of Needle
Type
Weight
Cotton thread
Synthetic thread
60–80
Medium
Taffeta
weight
75/11–90/14
fabrics
Flannel,
Gabardine
Silk thread
50
Lawn
Cotton thread
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
60–80
Thin fabrics
Georgette
Challis, Satin
Denim
65/9–75/11
50
Cotton thread
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
30–50
Thick
fabrics
Corduroy
Tweed
90/14–100/16
50
Jersey
Ball point needle
(golden colored)
75/11–90/14
Stretch
fabrics
Thread for knits
50–60
Tricot
Cotton thread
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
50–80
50
Easily frayed fabrics
65/9–90/14
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
For top-stitching
30
90/14–100/16
Memo
CAUTION
z The smaller the thread number, the thicker
the thread, and the larger the needle
number, the thicker the needle.
● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle
combinations are shown in the table
above. If the combination of the fabric,
thread and needle is not correct,
z Use the ball point needle when sewing on
stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped
stitches easily occur.
z Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with
transparent nylon threads, regardless of the
fabric being sewn.
particularly when sewing thick fabrics
(such as denim) with thin needles (such as
65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or
break. In addition, the stitching may be
uneven or puckered or there may be
skipped stitches.
z A 75/11 needle is already installed when the
sewing machine is purchased.
38
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Checking the needle
Replacing the needle
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous
since the needle may break while the machine is
being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance
between the needle and the flat surface is even.
Replace the needle as described below. Use the
screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to
be straight according to the instructions in “Checking
the needle”.
1
Press
(“Needle Position” button) once or
a
twice to raise the needle.
1
2
1
a
“Needle Position” button
Turn off the sewing machine.
a
b
Flat side
Needle type marking
b
■ Correct needle
CAUTION
1
● Before replacing the needle, be sure to
a
Flat surface
turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
■ Incorrect needle
injuries may occur if
(“Start/Stop”
If the distance between the needle and the flat
surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use
a bent needle.
button) is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
Place fabric or paper under the presser foot to
cover the hole in the needle plate.
c
Note
1
z Before replacing the needle, cover the hole
in the needle plate with fabric or paper to
prevent the needle from falling into the
machine.
a
Flat surface
Replacing the Needle 39
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
Lower the presser foot lever.
While holding the needle with your left hand,
use the screwdriver to tighten the needle
clamp screw.
d
g
Install the twin needle in the same way.
1
a
Presser foot lever
Hold the needle with your left hand, and then
use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp
screw toward you (counterclockwise) to
remove the needle.
e
CAUTION
1
● Be sure to insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper and securely
tighten the needle clamp screw with the
screwdriver, otherwise the needle may
break or damage may result.
2
a
b
Screwdriver
Needle clamp screw
• Do not apply a strong force when loosening
or tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.
With the flat side of the needle toward the rear
of the machine, insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper.
f
1
a
Needle stopper
40
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Replacing the Presser Foot
The presser foot presses down on the fabric.
1
Presser foot precautions
Replacing the presser foot
Be sure to observe the following precautions
concerning the presser feet.
Replace the presser foot as described below.
For details on using the side cutter “S”, refer to
“Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side
cutter” (page 78).
CAUTION
● Use the presser foot appropriate for the
type of stitch that you wish to sew,
otherwise the needle may hit the presser
foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
● Only use presser feet designed specifically
for this sewing machine. Use of any other
presser foot may result in injuries or
damage to the machine.
Press
(“Needle Position” button) once or
a
twice to raise the needle.
1
a
“Needle Position” button
X The needle is raised.
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
CAUTION
● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if
(“Start/Stop”
button) is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
Raise the presser foot lever.
c
a
a
Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
Replacing the Presser Foot 41
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
Press the black button at the back of the
presser foot holder.
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
presser foot is securely attached.
d
g
a
b
Note
a
b
Black button
Presser foot holder
z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears in
the screen. Check that the correct presser
foot is attached before starting to sew. If the
wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
sewing machine, attach the correct presser
foot, and then select the desired stitch again.
X The presser foot holder releases the presser
foot.
Place a different presser foot below the holder
so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the
notch in the holder.
e
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating
the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is
positioned to be read.
Buttonhole foot “A”
Overcasting foot “G”
Zigzag foot “J”
a
Button fitting foot “M”
Monogramming foot “N”
Blind stitch foot “R”
Side cutter “S”
b
c
a
b
c
Presser foot holder
Notch
Pin
z For details on the presser foot that should be
used with the selected stitch, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 134).
Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the
presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the
presser foot holder.
f
1
a
Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is attached.
42
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Adjusting the pressure of the
presser foot
Removing the presser foot
holder
The presser foot pressure (the amount of pressure
applied to the fabric by the presser foot) can be
adjusted. For best results, increase the pressure when
sewing thin fabrics, and decrease the pressure when
sewing thick fabrics.
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the
sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that
does not use the presser foot holder, such as the
quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the
presser foot holder.
1
■ Removing the presser foot holder
Lower the presser foot lever.
a
Remove the presser foot.
a
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot
holder screw.
b
1
a
Presser foot lever
b
a
c
Turn the presser foot pressure dial at the back
of the machine to adjust the pressure of the
presser foot.
a
b
c
Screwdriver
Presser foot holder
Presser foot holder screw
b
The presser foot pressure can be set to one of
four levels (between 1 and 4). The larger the
setting, the stronger the pressure. Use setting 1
or 2 for thick fabrics, use setting 3 or 4 for
thinner fabrics.
■ Attaching the presser foot holder
Align the presser foot holder with the lower-
a
left side of the presser bar.
a
b
Hold the presser foot holder in place with your
right hand, and then tighten the screw using
b
the screwdriver in your left hand.
a
b
Strong
Weak
When you are finished sewing, reset the dial to
3 (standard).
c
1
a
Screwdriver
Note
z
If the presser foot holder is not correctly
installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.
Replacing the Presser Foot 43
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
Using the walking foot
CAUTION
● Be sure to securely tighten the screw with
the screwdriver, otherwise the needle
may touch the presser foot, causing it to
bend or break.
With the walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed
evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser
foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard
to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing
fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when
quilting.
●
Before starting to sew, slowly turn the
handwheel toward you (counterclockwise)
and check that the needle does not touch
the presser foot. If the needle hits the
presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot.
Note
■ Attaching the walking foot
z When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a
speed between slow and medium.
Remove the presser foot holder.
a
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (page 43).
■ Removing the walking foot
Press
(“Needle Position” button) once or
Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot
onto the needle clamp screw.
a
twice to raise the needle.
b
a
1
b
a
“Needle Position” button
a
b
Connecting fork
Needle clamp screw
X The needle is raised.
Turn off the sewing machine.
Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser
foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw
with the screwdriver.
b
c
a
Raise the presser foot lever.
c
a
Presser foot holder screw
a
a
Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
44
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot
holder screw, and then remove the walking
d
foot.
1
a
a
Presser foot holder screw
Attach the presser foot holder.
e
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (page 43).
Memo
z Only the straight stitch (with reinforcement
stitching) and the zigzag stitch can be used
with the walking foot. For details on the
stitches, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 134).
Replacing the Presser Foot 45
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces
When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment.
Stitching cylindrical pieces
Sewing large pieces of fabric
Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to
sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs.
The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces of
fabric easier.
Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.
a
Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide
table.
a
Pull out the four legs until they snap into place.
X With the flat bed attachment removed, free-
arm sewing is possible.
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the
arm, and then sew from the top.
b
Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.
b
When you are finished with free-arm sewing,
install the flat bed attachment back in its
original position.
X With the flat bed attachment removed, free-
c
arm sewing is possible.
46
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Install the wide table.
Install the flat bed attachment back in its
original position.
c
f
Keeping the wide table level, fully slide it into
place. The lower right corner section of the
wide table extends over the front section of the
sewing machine bed.
Memo
z With the legs folded up, the wide table can
be stored attached to the hard case.
1
2
1
a
b
Lower right corner
Sewing machine bed
Note
z The optional wide table is available through
z The knee lifter can be stored attached to the
your brother dealer.
bottom of the wide table.
Turn the screw at the bottom of each leg to
adjust their height so the wide table will be
level with the sewing machine bed.
d
CAUTION
● Do not move the sewing machine while
the wide table is attached, otherwise
damage or injuries may occur.
When you are finished using the wide table,
remove it.
e
While slightly lifting up the wide table, pull it
off to the left.
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces 47
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
48
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2
SEWING BASICS
The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.
Sewing.....................................................................................................................50
General sewing procedure .................................................................................50
Positioning the fabric .........................................................................................51
Starting to sew ...................................................................................................52
Securing the stitching.........................................................................................54
Cutting the thread..............................................................................................55
Adjusting the Thread Tension..................................................................................57
Changing the tension of the upper thread ..........................................................57
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length....................................................................58
Adjusting the stitch width ..................................................................................58
Adjusting the stitch length..................................................................................59
Useful Functions......................................................................................................60
Changing the needle stop position .....................................................................60
Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches..........................................60
Automatically cutting the thread........................................................................62
Saving stitch settings ..........................................................................................63
Hands-free raising and lowering of the presser foot...........................................64
Useful Sewing Tips ..................................................................................................65
Trial sewing........................................................................................................65
Changing the sewing direction .............................................................................65
Sewing curves ....................................................................................................65
Sewing thick fabrics ...........................................................................................66
Sewing thin fabrics.............................................................................................66
Sewing stretch fabrics ........................................................................................66
Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics..........................................................................67
Sewing an even seam allowance ........................................................................67
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing
Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.
CAUTION
● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition,
keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise
injuries may occur.
● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the
needle may break.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or
bend.
General sewing procedure
Follow the basic procedures below to sew.
Turn on the sewing machine.For details on turning on the machine, refer
1
2
3
Turn on the machine.
Select the stitch.
to “Turning on the machine” (page 17).
↓
Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.For details on
selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 72).
↓
Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.For details on replacing
the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).
Attach the presser foot.
↓
Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric
pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of
the fabric are aligned correctly.For details on positioning the fabric, refer
to “Positioning the fabric” (page 51).
4
Position the fabric.
↓
Start sewing.For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
52).
5
6
Start sewing.
↓
Cut the thread at the end of sewing. The thread may also be cut
automatically.For details on cutting the thread, refer to “Cutting the
thread” (page 55).
Cut the thread.
50
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Positioning the fabric
Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct
order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric
are aligned correctly.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
2
Lower the presser foot lever.
e
The straight stitch (left needle position) is
automatically selected.
Press
(“Needle Position” button) once or
b
twice to raise the needle.
1
a
Presser foot lever
X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.
1
a
“Needle Position” button
Place the fabric under the presser foot.
c
d
• If the seam allowance is positioned on the
right side, sewing in a straight line is easier
and the extra fabric does not get in the way.
While holding the end of the thread and the
fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) with your right
hand to lower the needle to the starting point
of the stitching.
Memo
z To adjust the pressure that the presser foot
applies to the fabric, refer to “Adjusting the
pressure of the presser foot” (page 43).
Sewing 51
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————
Press
(“Start/Stop” button) once.
b
Starting to sew
Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the
sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted
using either the sewing speed controller or the foot
controller.
1
a
“Start/Stop” button
Note
Important:
X The machine starts sewing.
z When the foot controller is plugged in,
(“Start/Stop” button) cannot be used to start
or stop sewing.
■ Using the operation buttons
Sewing can be started and stopped using the
operation button
(“Start/Stop” button).
• If you continue to hold
(“Start/Stop”
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
a
button) pressed immediately after the sewing
starts, the machine will sew at a slow speed.
When the end of the stitching is reached, press
(“Start/Stop” button) once.
c
d
1
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
down (in the fabric).
When you are finished sewing, raise the
needle, and then cut the threads.
X For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
(page 55).
■ Using the foot controller
Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot
controller.
a
Sewing speed controller
Turn off the sewing machine.
When connecting the foot controller, be sure to
a
turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent
the machine from accidentally being started.
52
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on
the side of the sewing machine.
Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly
press down on the foot controller.
b
e
Pressing down on the foot controller increases
the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the
foot controller decreases the sewing speed.
1
Slower
Faster
2
• Slowly press down on the foot controller.
Pressing it down hard starts sewing too
quickly.
a
Foot controller jack
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
X The machine starts sewing.
z Foot controller: Model N5V
This foot controller can be used on this
machine model NX-450.
When the end of the stitching is reached,
completely release the foot controller.
f
g
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
lowered (in the fabric).
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
When you are finished sewing, raise the
needle, and then cut the threads.
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page
55).
Memo
z When the foot controller is plugged in,
(“Start/Stop” button) cannot be used to start
or stop sewing.
z When sewing is stopped, the needle remains
lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be
set so that the needle will stay up when
sewing is stopped. For details on setting the
machine so that the needle stays up when
sewing is stopped, refer to “Changing the
needle stop position” (page 60).
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
d
1
CAUTION
● Do not allow thread or dust to
accumulate in the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
occur.
● Do not place objects on the foot
controller, otherwise damage to the
machine or injuries may occur.
● If the machine is not to be used for a long
period of time, unplug the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
occur.
a
Sewing speed controller
• The speed set using the sewing speed
controller will be the foot controller’s
maximum sewing speed.
Sewing 53
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————
After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press
(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button).
c
Securing the stitching
Keep
(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”
button) held down until you reach the
beginning of the stitching.
When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at
the end of an opening or where seams do not
overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement
stitching to secure the end of the thread.
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
beginning of the stitching, and then lower the
a
presser foot lever.
1
a
“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button
X While
(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”
button) is held down, reverse stitches are
sewn.
After sewing back to the beginning of the
d
e
stitching, release
(“Reverse/
Reinforcement Stitch” button).
X The machine stops sewing.
Press
(“Start/Stop” button), or press down
Press
(“Start/Stop” button) or press down
b
on the foot controller.
on the foot controller.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
At this time, if
(“Start/Stop” button) is held
sewing direction
down, the machine sews at a low speed.
1
a
“Start/Stop” button
When the end of the stitching is reached, press
(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button).
f
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
52).
Keep
(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”
button) held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches
are sewn.
X The machine starts sewing.
X While
(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”
button) is held down, reverse stitches are
sewn.
54
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn,
g
release
(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”
Cutting the thread
button).
When you have finished sewing, cut the threads. The
threads can be cut in either of two ways.
X The machine stops sewing.
Press
(“Start/Stop” button), or press down
■ Using
(“Thread Cutter” button)
h
on the foot controller.
When you wish to finish the stitching, press
(“Thread Cutter” button) once.
At this time, if
(“Start/Stop” button) is held
a
down, the machine sews at a slow speed.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
2
sewing direction.
After sewing to the end of the stitching, the
sewing machine stops.
i
1
Press
(“Start/Stop” button) or release foot
controller.
a
“Thread Cutter” button
1
X The threads are cut and the needle is raised.
3
4
Raise the presser foot lever.
1
2
b
a
5
6
a
Presser foot lever
2
Beginning of stitching
End of stitching
a
b
CAUTION
● Do not press
(“Thread Cutter”
■ Sewing reinforcement stitches
button) after the threads have already
been cut, otherwise the needle may
break, the threads may become tangled or
damage to the machine may occur.
When sewing stitches other than straight or
zigzag stitches that are secured with reverse
stitching, pressing
(“Reverse/Reinforcement
Stitch” button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5
stitches on top of each other.
Note
z Do not press
(“Thread Cutter” button) if
there is no fabric under the presser foot or
while the machine is sewing, otherwise
damage to the machine may occur.
2
1
a
b
Reverse stitching
Reinforcement stitching
Memo
z The machine can be set so that the threads
will be cut when sewing is finished. For
details on setting the machine so that the
threads are cut automatically, refer to
“Automatically cutting the thread” (page 62).
Memo
z Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement
stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that
is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 134).
Sewing 55
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————
■ Using the manual thread cutter
When sewing with thread thicker than #30, nylon
or metallic threads, or other special threads, use
the thread cutter on the side of the machine to cut
the threads.
When you wish to finish the stitching and the
sewing machine is stopped, press
a
(“Needle Position” button) once to raise the
needle.
1
a
“Needle Position” button
X The needle is raised.
Raise the presser foot lever.
b
a
a
Presser foot lever
Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,
and then pass the threads through the thread
cutter to cut them.
c
1
a
Thread cutter
56
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Adjusting the Thread Tension
The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they
are equal.
Turn the thread tension dial to the left to loosen
the upper thread.
Changing the tension of the
upper thread
You may need to change the thread tension,
depending on the fabric and thread being used.
2
■ Correct thread tension
The upper thread and the bobbin thread should
cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper
thread should be visible from the right side of the
fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be
visible from the wrong side of the fabric.
■ Upper thread is too loose
If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side
of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.
5
1
1
2
2
3
4
3
4
a
b
c
d
Wrong side of fabric
Right side of fabric
Upper thread
a
b
c
d
e
Wrong side of fabric
Right side of fabric
Bobbin thread
Upper thread
Bobbin thread
■ Upper thread is too tight
The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of
the fabric.
If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side
of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.
Turn the thread tension dial to the right to tighten
the upper thread.
1
2
5
3
4
a
b
c
d
e
Wrong side of fabric
Right side of fabric
Upper thread
Bobbin thread
The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of
the fabric.
Note
z If the upper thread is not threaded correctly
or the bobbin is not installed correctly, it
may not be possible to set the correct thread
tension. If the correct thread tension cannot
be achieved, rethread the upper thread and
insert the bobbin correctly.
Adjusting the Thread Tension 57
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length
The zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a
stitch is selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected. For details on the range of
values within which the width and length can be set, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 134).
Adjusting the stitch width
The stitch width (zigzag width) can be adjusted to
make the stitch wider or narrower.
–
+
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
• If the setting is changed, the highlighted
value is erased.
Memo
X The LCD comes on.
z To reset the stitch width to its standard
setting, select the same stitch again or
change the setting to the highlighted value.
Select a stitch.
b
X A screen containing settings for the selected
z Press
(Reset key) to return the stitch
stitch appears.
width, stitch length to their default settings.
z If the straight stitch (left needle position or
triple stretch stitch) was selected, changing
the stitch width changes the needle position.
Increasing the width moves the needle to the
right; reducing the width moves the needle
to the left.
z The settings can be saved so that they will
always be specified each time the utility
stitch is selected. For details, refer to “Saving
stitch settings” (page 63).
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 72).
• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the
standard settings (highlighted) appear.
z The sewing machine can be set so that the
stitch width can easily be changed with the
sewing speed controller. For details, refer to
“Satin stitching using the sewing speed
controller” (page 105).
To make the stitch width narrower, press
(Stitch width key). To make the stitch width
c
wider, press
(Stitch width key).
z
indicates that the setting cannot be
adjusted.
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
X The stitch width is changed.
58
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To make the stitch length shorter, press
c
Adjusting the stitch length
(Stitch length key). To make the stitch length
longer, press (Stitch length key).
The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch
longer or shorter.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
2
X The stitch length is changed.
X The LCD comes on.
Select a stitch.
b
X A screen containing settings for the selected
stitch appears.
–
+
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 72).
• If the setting is changed, the highlighted
value is erased.
• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the
standard settings (highlighted) appear.
Memo
z To reset the stitch length to its standard
setting, select the same stitch again or
change the setting to the highlighted value.
z Press
(Reset key) to return the stitch
width, stitch length to their default settings.
z The settings can be saved so that they will
always be specified each time the utility
stitch is selected. For details, refer to “Saving
stitch settings” (page 63).
z
indicates that the setting cannot be
adjusted.
CAUTION
● If the stitches are bunched together,
increase the stitch length. Continuing to
sew with the stitches bunched together
may result in the needle bending or
breaking.
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length 59
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————
Useful Functions
Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below.
Changing the needle stop
position
Automatically sewing reverse/
reinforcement stitches
When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to
leave the needle lowered in the fabric when sewing is
stopped. However, the machine can be set to instead
leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.
The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew
reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and
end of the stitching.Whether reverse stitches or
reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch
that is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch Settings”
(page 134).
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
X The LCD comes on.
X The LCD comes on.
Press
(Needle stop position key).
b
Select a stitch.
X
(Needle stop position key) lights up,
b
and the machine is now set to stop with the
needle in the raised position.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 72).
• To return the machine to the setting where
the needle is stopped in the lowered position,
press
(Needle stop position key) until the
key is no longer lit.
• Even after the sewing machine is turned off,
the needle stop position setting is not
cancelled.
60
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Press
(Automatic reverse/reinforcement
After reaching the end of the stitching, press
(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button)
once.
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as
those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is
selected where reinforcement stitches are
automatically sewn.
c
e
stitch key).
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as
those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is
selected where reinforcement stitches are
automatically sewn.
2
1
X
(Automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitch key) lights up, and the sewing machine
is set for automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching.
a
“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the sewing machine stops.
• To turn automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching off, press (Automatic reverse/
reinforcement stitch key) until the key is no
longer lit.
• When the sewing machine is turned off, the
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching
setting is cancelled.
Position the fabric under the presser foot, and
d
then press
(“Start/Stop” button) once.
Memo
z Reverse/reinforcement stitches WILL NOT be
sewn until
(“Reverse/Reinforcement
(“Start/Stop”
Stitch” button) is pressed.
button) may be pressed to stop stitching
when needed such as for pivoting corners.
1
a
“Start/Stop” button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the machine starts sewing.
Useful Functions 61
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————
Position the fabric under the presser foot, and
d
Automatically cutting the
thread
then press
(“Start/Stop” button) once.
The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut
the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called
“programmed thread-cutting”. If programmed thread-
cutting is set, automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching is also set. This setting is convenient if a
stitch for sewing buttonholes or bar tacks is selected.
1
a
“Start/Stop” button
Turn on the sewing machine.
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
a
sewn, the machine starts sewing.
After reaching the end of the stitching, press
(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button)
once.
e
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as
those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is
selected where reinforcement stitches are
automatically sewn.
X The LCD comes on.
Select a stitch.
b
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 72).
1
Press
(Automatic thread cutting key).
a
“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button
c
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the sewing machine stops and cuts the
thread.
X
(Automatic thread cutting key) and
(Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch
key) light up, and the sewing machine is set
for programmed thread-cutting and
The thread is cut here.
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching.
Memo
• To turn off programmed thread-cutting, press
(Automatic thread cutting key) until the
key is no longer lit.
z Reverse/reinforcement stitches WILL NOT be
sewn and the thread will not automatically
be cut until
Stitch” button) is pressed.
button) may be pressed to stop stitching
when needed such as for pivoting corners.
(“Reverse/Reinforcement
(“Start/Stop”
• When the sewing machine is turned off, the
programmed thread-cutting setting is
cancelled.
62
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Press (Manual memory key).
b
Saving stitch settings
X “Saving...” appears while the settings for the
stitch width and stitch length are being
saved.
Adjusted stitch width and length settings can be
saved so that they will be specified each time the
stitch is selected. The various settings can be saved
for each utility stitch.
X After the settings for the stitch width and
stitch length are saved, the initial stitch
screen appears again.
Select the stitch, and then adjust the stitch
width and length.
• The next time that the stitch is selected, the
saved settings are the first ones that are
displayed.
a
To adjust the stitch width, press
or
2
(Stitch width keys). To adjust the stitch length,
• To clear the saved settings and return the
stitch width and length to their default
press
or
(Stitch length keys).
settings, press
To use the default settings the next time that
the stitch is selected, press (Manual
memory key) to save the settings.
(Reset key).
2
1
a
b
Stitch width keys
Stitch length keys
1
2
a
b
Stitch width (mm)
Stitch length (mm)
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 72).
X The stitch width and length are changed.
Useful Functions 63
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————
■ Using the knee lifter
Hands-free raising and
lowering of the presser foot
Stop the sewing machine.
a
• Do not use the knee lifter while the sewing
Using the knee lifter, you can raise and lower the
machine is operating.
presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free
to handle the fabric.
With your knee, press the knee lifter to the
right.
b
Keep the knee lifter pressed to the right.
■ Installing the knee lifter
Turn off the sewing machine.
a
Insert the knee lifter into its jack on the front
of the sewing machine in the lower-right
b
X The presser foot is raised.
corner.
Align the tabs on the knee lifter with the
notches in the jack, and then insert the knee
lifter as far as possible.
Release the knee lifter.
c
X The presser foot is lowered.
CAUTION
● While sewing, keep your knee away from
the knee lifter. If the knee lifter is pressed
while the sewing machine is operating,
the needle may break or the machine may
be damaged.
2
1
a
b
Tabs
Notches
Note
z If the knee lifter is not fully inserted into its
jack, it may fall out while the sewing
machine is operating.
64
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Useful Sewing Tips
Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips
when sewing your project.
Trial sewing
Sewing curves
After you have set up the machine with the thread
and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being
sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread
tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that
is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be
sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and
stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be
achieved.
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing
direction to sew around the curve. For details on
sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to
“Sewing an even seam allowance” (page 67).
2
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread
that are the same as those used for your project, and
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on the type of
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions
that will be used with your project.
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag
stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain
a finer stitch.
Changing the sewing direction
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the
sewing machine.
a
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the
needle remained up when the machine stopped
sewing, press
(“Needle Position” button) to
lower the needle.
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the
fabric.
b
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.
Lower the presser foot lever and continue
sewing.
c
Useful Sewing Tips 65
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————
Release the button. The foot will lock in place
level with the seam, allowing the fabric to
c
Sewing thick fabrics
feed.
■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser
foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to
bring the presser foot to its highest position.
X Once the trouble spot has been passed, the
foot will return to its normal position.
CAUTION
● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)
thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed
with too much force, the needle may
bend or break.
■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does
not feed at the beginning of stitching
Zigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that
keeps the presser foot level.
Sewing thin fabrics
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this
occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under
the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When
you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.
a
a
Sewing direction
When you encounter a seam that is too thick
to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot
lever.
a
b
1
Press the black button (presser foot holding
pin) on the left side of zigzag foot “J”. Keep
the button held in and lower the presser foot.
a
Stabilizer material or paper
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew
without stretching the fabric.
1
a
Presser foot holding pin
1
Note
z The presser foot needs to be in a level
position before pressing the black button
(presser foot holding pin) on the left side of
zigzag foot “J”.
a
Basting
66
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■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking
Sewing leathers or vinyl
The markings on the needle plate show the
fabrics
distance from the needle position of a seam sewn
with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew
while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with
a marking in the needle plate. The distance
between the markings in the upper scale is 1/8
inch (3 mm) and the distance between the
markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).
When sewing the fabrics that may stick to the presser
foot such as leathers or coated fabrics, change the
presser foot to the non stick foot.
5
2
1
1
4
a
Leather
2
3
Sewing an even seam
allowance
6
To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam
allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the
edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge
of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.
a
Seam
b
c
d
e
f
Presser foot
Centimeters
Inches
Needle plate
16 mm (5/8 inch)
■ Aligning the fabric with the presser foot
Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser
foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.
1
2
a
b
Seam
Presser foot
■ Aligning the fabric with the stitch guide foot
Sew while keeping the right edge of the fabric
aligned with a desired position of markings on the
stitch guide foot.
1
2
3
a
b
c
Seam
Stitch guide foot
Markings
Useful Sewing Tips 67
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————
68
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3
UTILITY STITCHES
The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.
Selecting Stitching...............................70 Reinforcement Stitching ....................107
Selecting stitch types and patterns.......70
Selecting stitching ..........................72
Overcasting Stitches............................76
Triple stretch stitching..................107
Bar tack stitching..........................107
Darning ........................................109
Eyelet Stitching..................................111
Sewing overcasting stitches
using overcasting foot “G”.............76 Decorative Stitching..........................112
Sewing overcasting stitches
using zigzag foot “J” ......................77
Sewing overcasting stitches
Fagoting........................................113
Scallop stitching ...........................114
Smocking......................................114
Shell tuck stitching .......................115
Joining..........................................116
Heirloom stitching........................116
using the optional side cutter.........78
Basic Stitching.....................................80
Basting ...........................................80
Basic stitching ................................81 Sewing the Various Built-In
Blind Hem Stitching ............................82
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing....84
Buttonhole sewing..........................85
Button sewing ................................89
Zipper Insertion...................................91
Inserting a centered zipper ............91
Inserting a side zipper....................93
Zipper/piping Insertion .......................96
Inserting a centered zipper ............96
Inserting a piping ...........................97
Sewing Stretch Fabrics
Decorative Patterns...........................119
Sewing beautiful patterns.............119
Sewing patterns............................119
Combining patterns......................120
Repeat sewing patterns.................121
Checking the selected pattern ......121
Changing the pattern size.............122
Changing the stitch density ..........123
Changing the pattern length.........124
Mirror imaging the pattern...........125
Retrieving a pattern......................126
Realigning the pattern ..................127
Designing a Pattern ...........................129
and Elastic Tape...................................98
Stretch stitching .............................98
Elastic attaching .............................98
Appliqué, Patchwork
Drawing a sketch of the pattern...129
Entering the pattern data..............130
Examples of designs......................132
and Quilt Stitching ............................100
Appliqué stitching ........................101
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching.......102
Piecing .........................................102
Quilting........................................103
Free-motion quilting.....................104
Satin stitching using the sewing
speed controller ...........................105
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Selecting Stitching
You can select any of the various types of stitching available.
Preset utillity stitch
Selecting stitch types and
patterns
The most frequently used utility stitches
have been assigned to the numeric keys.
These stitches can be selected simply by
pressing the key.
A stitch can be selected from the following types
available.
Stitch patterns can be selected through either direct
select (by pressing the key for a specific stitch) or
number selection (by entering the number for the
stitch pattern).
Saved patterns
Frequently used patterns and combined
patterns can be saved on the machine's
memory and easily retrieved using
(Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key) and
the numeric keys. For details, refer to
“Saving patterns” (page 126).
For details on the types of stitches available, refer to
“Stitch Settings” (page 134).
■ Direct selection
After pressing
(Preset utility stitch/saved
■ Number selection
After pressing (Utility stitch key),
(Decorative stitch key) or (Character stitch
pattern key) to select the stitch mode, press the
numeric key assigned with the desired stitch.
With direct selection, there are two stitch modes:
key) to select the stitch mode, use the numeric
keys to type in the number for the desired stitch.
preset utility stitch mode
and saved pattern
mode
. When the machine is turned on or
(Preset utility stitch/saved pattern
when the
key) is pressed, the machine enters preset utility
stitch mode, indicated by in the lower-left
corner of the screen. To enter saved pattern
1
2
/
/
3
4
/
mode, indicated by
the screen, press the
in the lower-left corner of
(Preset utility stitch/
a
Utility stitch key
Decorative stitch key
Character stitch key
Numeric keys
b
c
d
saved pattern key). Each press of
utility stitch/saved pattern key) switches the mode
between the preset utility stitch mode and
saved pattern mode
(Preset
Utility stitches (No.01-67)
.
There are 67 utility stitches, including
straight stitches, overcasting stitches and
buttonhole stitches.
1
/
2
a
b
Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key
Numeric keys
70
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Decorative stitches
Character stitches
There are three character stitch modes: Gothic
font mode , Script font mode and
outline style mode
There are two decorative stitch modes: decorative
stitch 1 mode
.
and decorative stitch 2 mode
.
If
decorative stitch 1 mode
(Decorative stitch key) is pressed twice,
decorative stitch 2 mode is selected. Each
(Decorative stitch key) switches the
(Decorative stitch key) is pressed once,
If
Gothic font mode
(Character stitch key) is pressed twice, Script font
mode is selected. If (Character stitch
key) is pressed three times, outline style mode
is selected. Each press of (Character
stitch key) switches the mode between the Gothic
font mode , Script font mode and
outline style mode
(Character stitch key) is pressed once,
is selected. If
is selected. If
press of
mode between decorative stitch 1 mode
and
decorative stitch 2 mode
.
Decorative stitches (No.01-31)
There are 31 decorative stitches, including
hearts, leaves and flowers.
.
3
Gothic font (No.01-55)
Satin stitches (No.32-47)
There are 16 satin stitches.
There are 55 characters, including letters,
symbols and numbers, in the Gothic font.
Cross-stitches (No.48-52)
There are 5 types of cross-stitches.
Script font (No.01-55)
There are 55 characters, including letters,
symbols and numbers, in the Script font.
Decorative satin stitches (No.53-62)
There are 10 decorative satin stitches.
Outline style (No.01-55)
There are 55 characters, including letters,
symbols and numbers, in the outline style.
My Custom Stitch (No.99)
You can design original stitches. (For
detailes, refer to “Designing a Pattern”
(page 129).)
Utility decorative stitches (No.01–39)
Some utility stitches can be used as
decorative stitches. There are 39 of these
stitches.
Selecting Stitching 71
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
■ With direct selection
Selecting stitching
With direct selection, there are two stitch modes:
preset utility stitch mode
mode
and saved pattern
Using the operation panel keys, select the desired
stitch. Ten of the most often used utility stitches can
quickly be selected with the numeric keys.
Right after turning the power on, the straight stitch
(left needle position) is selected.
.
Press
(Preset utility stitch/saved pattern
a
key) to select the stitch mode.
The machine can also be set to select the straight
stitch (center needle position). For details, refer to
“Changing the settings” (page 19).
: Preset utility stitch
The 10 stitch patterns printed on the
numeric keys can be selected directly.
Determine the stitch that you wish to use.
When
of the screen when the machine is turned
on or when the (Preset utility stitch/
appears in the lower-left corner
a
• For the numbers of the various stitches, refer
to the stitch pattern plate and “Stitch Settings”
(page 134).
saved pattern key) is pressed.
: Saved patterns
The 10 stitch patterns saved with the
1
numeric keys can be selected directly.
When
appears in the lower-left corner
(Preset utility
of the screen when
stitch/saved pattern key) is pressed.
X When a direct selection mode is selected,
(Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key)
lights up.
a
Stitch pattern plate
Determine which presser foot should be used
with the selected stitch.
The presser feet are stored in the accessory
b
X After the icon for the selected stitch mode
appears in the center of the screen, a screen
for selecting the stitch appears with the icon
for the stitch mode in the lower-left corner.
However, when the machine is turned on,
appears only in the lower-left corner of
the screen and does not appear in the center
of the screen.
compartment.
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings”
(page 134).
Attach the presser foot.
c
d
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Example: preset utility stitch
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The straight stitch (left needle position) is
Press the key assigned with the stitch to select
the stitch.
shown selected in the LCD.
b
After selecting the stitch mode, select the
stitch pattern.
• Continue with step
f
(on page 74).
e
72
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Character stitches
■ With number selection
There are three modes of stitches that can be
: Gothic font
selected by number: utility stitch mode
decorative stitch mode and character stitch
mode
In addition, there are two decorative stitch modes
: decorative stitch 1 mode and
,
55 letter, symbol and numbers are
available.
When
(Character stitch key) is
.
pressed once.
: Script font
55 letter, symbol and numbers are
available.
decorative stitch 2 mode
character stitch modes
, Script font mode
. There are three
: Gothic font mode
and outline style
When
(Character stitch key) is
pressed twice.
mode
.
: Outline style
55 letter, symbol and numbers are
available.
3
Press the stitch mode key for the stitch that
you wish to use.
a
When
(Character stitch key) is
Utility stitches
pressed three times.
: 67 utility stitches are available.
X A pressed key lights up.
X After the icon for the selected stitch mode
appears in the center of the screen, a screen
for selecting the stitch appears with the icon
for the stitch mode in the lower-left corner.
Decorative stitches
: 62 stitches, including decorative
stitches, satin stitches, step patterns,
cross stitch and decorative satin
stitches, are available.
Example: decorative stitches
When
(Decorative stitch key) is
pressed once.
: 39 utility decorative stitches are
available.
When
(Decorative stitch key) is
pressed twice.
Memo
z When pressing a stitch mode key multiple
times, continue pressing the key after the
icon for the stitch mode appears in the
lower-left corner of the screen.
Selecting Stitching 73
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Use the numeric keys to type in the two-digit
number for the desired stitch.
For stitches 01 through 09, the stitch can also
■ To select a different stitch
b
Check the icon in the lower-left corner of the
screen for the current mode.
be selected by using the numeric keys to type in
a one-digit number, then pressing
key).
(OK
X After the entered number appears in the
The current mode is indicated.
center of the screen, the stitch is selected.
Example
To select a stitch in the same mode as the
current one
• In the utility stitch mode, simply type in the
number for the desired stitch.
• In the decorative stitch mode and character
stitch mode, press
(Cancel/clear key) to
cancel the stitch, and then type in the
number for the desired stitch.
• For the numbers of the various stitches, refer
to the stitch pattern plate and “Stitch Settings”
(page 134).
• However, if the currently selected stitch was
sewn at least one time, typing in a stitch
number switches to the new stitch, even if
the previous stitch was not canceled.
• If the first number (tens when entering two-
digit numbers, ones when entering one-digit
numbers) was incorrectly entered, press
(Cancel/clear key) to erase the entered
number.
Memo
z Patterns can be combined by selecting a
different decorative stitch while a stitch is
selected. For details, refer to “Saving
patterns” (page 126).
• If an incorrect two-digit number was entered,
an error beep is sounded, and the entered
number is cleared.
If necessary, specify the setting for automatic
reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the
stitch length, etc.
f
To select a stitch in a different mode as the
current one
• After selecting a different mode, type in the
number for the desired stitch. (Refer to steps
• For details on sewing with each of the utility
stitches, begin on page 76.
e
on pages 72 through 74.)
Note
When switching from the utility stitch mode to
the decorative stitch or character stitch mode or
the other way around, all stitches that have been
selected are erased so that a new stitch can be
selected. In order to prevent stitches from
incorrectly being erased, the following
z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears in
the screen. Check that the correct presser
foot is attached before starting to sew. If the
wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
sewing machine, attach the correct presser
foot, and then select the desired stitch again.
confirmation message appears.
Memo
z For details on adjusting the stitch width and
length, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width
and Length” (page 58).
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
• To erase the stitch and select a different one,
press
(OK key), and then change the
stitch mode.
• To stop the current stitch from being erased,
press
(Cancel/clear key) to return to the
previous screen.
Memo
z After changing stitch settings such as the
stitch length and width or after combining
patterns, the stitch pattern can be saved with
its current settings. For details, refer to
“Saving patterns” (page 126).
3
Selecting Stitching 75
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Overcasting Stitches
Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent fabric from fraying. Fifteen stitches are
available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the
presser foot that is used.
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”
Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot “G”.
Numeric
Key
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Pattern
Presser
Foot
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Preventing fraying in
medium weight and
thin fabrics
11
3.5
2.5–5.0
2.0
1.0–4.0
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Overcasting 12
5.0
2.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
G
stitch
(3/16) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Preventing fraying in
thick fabrics and
fabrics that fray easily
13
5.0
3.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
–
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Attach overcasting foot “G”.
Sew with the edge of the fabric against the
presser foot guide.
a
d
G
1
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Select a stitch.
b
c
a
Needle drop point
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
CAUTION
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric
against the guide of the presser foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
a
a
Guide
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”
Seven stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “J”.
Numeric
Key
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Pattern
Presser
Foot
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Zigzag stitch
(center
Preventing fraying
(center baseline/
reverse stitching)
07
08
3.5
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
(1/8)
(1/16)
needle
position)
Preventing fraying
(right baseline/
reinforcement
stitching)
Zigzag stitch
(right needle
position)
3.5
2.5–5.0
1.4
0.3–4.0
–
–
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
09
10
14
2-point
zigzag stitch
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
3
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Preventing fraying in
thick fabrics and
stretch fabrics
J
3-point
zigzag stitch
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Preventing fraying in
stretch fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.5–4.0
–
–
–
(3/32) (1/32–3/16)
Preventing fraying in
thick fabrics and
stretch fabrics
15
16
Overcasting
stitch
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.5–4.0
(3/32) (1/32–3/16)
Preventing fraying in
stretch fabrics
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
4.0
1.0–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–3/16)
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
1
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
a
Needle drop point
Select a stitch.
b
c
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
Memo
z For best results when sewing stretch fabrics,
decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For
details, refer to “Adjusting the pressure of the
presser foot” (page 43).
Sew along the edge of the fabric with the
needle dropping off the edge at the right.
a
a
Needle drop point
Overcasting Stitches 77
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter
Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five stitches can be
used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.
Pattern
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
63
64
Sewing straight stitches while
cutting the fabric
0.0
(0)
0.0–2.5
(0–3/32)
2.5
0.2–5.0
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
Sewing zigzag stitches while
cutting the fabric
3.5
(1/8)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16) (1/16)
1.4
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Preventing fraying in thin and
medium weight fabrics while
cutting the fabric
65
Overcasting
stitch
3.5
(1/8)
3.5–5.0
2.0
1.0–4.0
S
(1/8–3/16) (1/16) ( 1/16–3/16)
66
67
Preventing fraying in thick
5.0
3.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) ( 1/16–3/16)
fabrics while cutting the fabric
Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics while cutting the fabric
5.0
3.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) ( 1/16–3/16)
Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter
onto the needle clamp screw.
d
a
Remove the presser foot.
b
a
b
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
a
b
Connecting fork
Needle clamp screw
Lower the presser foot lever, and then
manually thread the needle.
Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin
is aligned with the notch in the presser foot
holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot
lever.
e
• The needle threader cannot be used. If the
needle threader is used with the side cutter,
the sewing machine may be damaged.
Raise the presser foot lever.
c
b
a
a
b
Notch in presser foot holder
Pin
X The side cutter is attached.
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
side cutter is securely attached.
Position the fabric in the side cutter.
The cut in the fabric should be positioned over
the guide plate of the side cutter.
f
g
j
Pass the upper thread under the side cutter,
and then pull it out toward the rear of the
sewing machine.
a
a
Guide plate
• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the
fabric will not be cut.
Lower the presser foot lever, and then start
sewing.
Select a stitch.
k
h
3
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching
is sewn.
• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line, the
seam allowance will be about 5 mm
(3/16 inch).
Make a cut of about 2 cm (3/4 inch) long in
the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.
i
1
1
a
5 mm (3/16 inch)
a
2 cm (3/4 inch)
Memo
z The side cutter can cut as much as one layer
of 13-oz. denim.
z After using the side cutter, clean it by
removing any lint or dust.
z If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric,
use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to
the cutting edge of the cutter.
z The optional side cutter is available through
your brother dealer.
Overcasting Stitches 79
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Basic Stitching
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Five stitches are available for basic stitching.
Numeric
Key
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Pattern
Presser
Foot
Stitch Name
Basting stitch
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
06
01
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
–
–
Temporarily securing
–
–
Basic stitching and
sewing gathers or
pintucks (left baseline/
reverse stitching)
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2-5.0
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
Straightstitch
(left needle
position)
Basic stitching and
sewing gathers or
pintucks (left baseline/
reinforcement
02
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2-5.0
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
J
stitching)
Basic stitching and
sewing gathers or
pintucks (center
baseline/reverse
stitching)
Straightstitch
(center
03
04
3.5
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2-5.0
(1/8)
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
needle
position)
Reinforcing seams
and sewing stretch
fabrics
Triple stretch
stitch
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.5–4.0
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Start sewing.
c
Basting
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 52).
Sew basting with a stitch length between 5 mm
(3/16 inch).
1
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
J
a
5 mm (3/16 inch)
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
06
Select stitch
.
b
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
■ Changing the needle position
Basic stitching
The needle position used as the baseline is
different for the straight stitch (left needle
position) and the straight stitch (center needle
position).
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
1
2
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
a
b
Straight stitch (left needle position)
Straight stitch (center needle position)
Select a stitch.
When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left
needle position) is set to its standard setting
(0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to
the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm
(1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between
0 and 7.0 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will
also change. By changing the stitch width and
sewing with the right side of the presser foot
aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam
allowance can be sewn with a fixed width.
c
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
3
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
beginning of the stitching.
d
e
Start sewing.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
52).
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement
stitches, refer to “Securing the stitching”
(page 54).
1
0.0
2.0
5.5
7.0
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
f
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page
55).
3
4
5
6
2
a
b
Stitch width setting
Distance from the needle position to the right
side of the presser foot
12.0 mm (1/2 inch)
10.0 mm (3/8 inch)
6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
c
d
e
f
5.0 mm (3/16 inch)
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width”
(page 58).
Basic Stitching 81
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Blind Hem Stitching
Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.
Numeric
Key
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Pattern
Presser
Foot
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Blind hem stitching on
medium weight
fabrics
17
18
00
(0)
2.0
1.0–3.5
3← – 3→
(1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Blind hem
stitch
R
Blind hem stitching on
stretch fabrics
00
(0)
2.0
1.0–3.5
–
3← – 3→
(1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the
hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch)
from the edge of the fabric.
Attach blind hem foot “R”.
a
c
R
4
2
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
3
1
Select a stitch.
d
e
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
a
b
c
d
Wrong side of fabric
Basting stitching
Desired edge of hem
5 mm (3/16 inch)
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded
hem against the guide of the presser foot, and
then lower the presser foot lever.
Fold back the fabric along the basting, and
then position the fabric with the wrong side
facing up.
b
2
3
1
2
a
b
c
Wrong side of fabric
Fold of hem
Guide
1
a
b
Wrong side of fabric
Basting
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly
catches the fold of the hem.
■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold
f
The needle is too far to the right.
Press
(of the Stitch width keys) to
increase the stitch width so that the needle
slightly catches the fold of the hem.
1
a
Needle drop point
3
1
2
1
+
–
a
b
Wrong side of fabric
Right side of fabric
• For details on changing the stitch width, refer
to “Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length”
(page 58).
Sew with the fold of the hem against the
presser foot guide.
a
Stitch width
g
h
■ If the needle catches too much of the hem
fold
Remove the basting stitching.
The needle is too far to the left.
Press
(of the Stitch width keys) to
decrease the stitch width so that the needle
slightly catches the fold of the hem.
1
2
a
b
Wrong side of fabric
Right side of fabric
Memo
z For best results when sewing stretch fabrics,
decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For
details, refer to “Adjusting the pressure of the
presser foot” (page 43).
1
2
a
b
Wrong side of fabric
Right side of fabric
Blind Hem Stitching 83
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Eleven stitches are available for sewing one-step
buttonholes and one stitch for sewing on buttons.
Numeric
Key
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Pattern
Presser
Foot
Stitch Name
Application
Horizontal
buttonholes on thin
and medium weight
fabrics
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
48
49
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
–
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
Horizontal
buttonholes on areas
that are subject to
strain
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
–
–
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
Horizontal
buttonholes on thick
fabrics
50
51
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
Buttonholes with bar
tacks on both ends for
stabilized fabrics
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
52
53
54
Buttonholes for stretch
or knit fabrics
6.0
3.0–6.0
1.0
0.5–2.0
Buttonhole
stitch
–
–
–
A
(15/64) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) (1/32–1/16)
Buttonholes for stretch
fabrics
6.0
3.0–6.0
1.5
1.0–3.0
(15/64) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) (1/16–1/8)
5.0
0.0–6.0
2.0
0.2–4.0
Bound buttonholes
(3/16) (0–15/64) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Keyhole buttonholes
for thick or plush
fabrics
55
56
7.0
3.0–7.0
0.5
0.3–1.0
–
–
(1/4)
(1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
Keyhole buttonholes
for medium weight
and thick fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
0.5
0.3–1.0
(1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
Horizontal buttonhole
for thick or plush
fabrics
57
61
7.0
3.0–7.0
0.5
0.3–1.0
–
–
(1/4)
(1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
Button-
sewing stitch
3.5
2.5–4.5
Button sewing
–
–
M
(1/8) (3/32–3/16)
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Buttonhole sewing
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
1
1
1
3
1
a
Reinforcement stitching
The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is
used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.
Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position
and length of the buttonhole.
a
1
1
2
5
a
Marks on fabric
3
Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole
foot “A”, and then insert the button that will
be put through the buttonhole.
b
4
A
a
b
c
d
e
Button guide plate
Presser foot scale
Pin
Marks on buttonhole foot
5 mm (3/16 inch)
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 85
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
■ If the button does not fit in the button guide
Position the fabric with the front end of the
buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on
the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
e
plate
Add together the diameter and thickness of
the button, and then set the button guide
plate to the calculated length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot
scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
1
A
1
2
a
b
Mark on fabric
Red marks on buttonhole foot
Pass the upper thread down through the hole in
the presser foot.
2
3
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct
size.
a
b
Presser foot scale
Length of buttonhole (Diameter + thickness of
button)
5 mm (3/16 inch)
c
Example: For a button with a diameter of
15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm
(3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set
to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.
1
2
a
a
b
10 mm (3/8 inch)
15 mm (9/16 inch)
a
Do not reduce the gap.
X The size of the buttonhole is set.
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
possible.
f
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
c
d
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
a
a
Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
1
2
a
b
Buttonhole lever
Bracket
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
your left hand, and then start sewing.
g
1
a
Eyelet punch
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops.
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever,
and then remove the fabric.
h
i
j
CAUTION
3
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
position.
● When opening the buttonhole with the
seam ripper, do not place your hands in
the cutting direction, otherwise injuries
may result if the seam ripper slips.
Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at
the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent
the stitching from being cut.
■ Changing the density of the stitching
1
Adjust the stitch length.
–
+
a
Pin
Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and
open the buttonhole.
k
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
length” (page 59).
1
• If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is
too thick), decrease the density of the
stitching.
a
Seam ripper
For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch
to make a hole in the rounded end of the
buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut
open the buttonhole.
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
■ Changing the stitch width
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
b
Adjust the stitch width.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
–
+
52
53
Select stitch
or
.
c
d
Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the
gimp thread.
Lower the presser foot lever and the
buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
e
f
When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp
thread to remove any slack.
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
width” (page 58).
Memo
z Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
length and width by sewing a trial
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.
Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp
thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it.
g
h
■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use
a gimp thread.
With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the
gimp thread remaining at the top end of the
buttonhole.
Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of
a
buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration
so that it fits into the grooves, and then loosely
tie it.
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Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as
the distance between the holes in the button.
e
Button sewing
Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”.
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.
Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.
f
Measure the distance between the holes in the
button to be attached.
a
a
a
Button
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the
drop feed lever, located at the rear of the
b
X The button is held in place.
machine on the base, to
seen from the rear of the machine).
(to the left as
• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew
the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the
button so that the needle goes into the two
holes toward the rear of the sewing machine,
and then sew them in the same way.
3
a
a
Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
Turn the handwheel toward you
X The feed dogs are lowered.
g
(counterclockwise) to check that the needle
correctly goes into the two holes of the button.
If it seems as if the needle will hit the button,
remeasure the distance between the holes in
the button. Adjust the stitch width to the
distance between the button holes.
Attach button-sewing foot “M”.
c
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
61
Select stitch
.
d
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
CAUTION
• Since the end of the thread will be tied off
later, do not set the sewing machine for
programmed-thread cutting.
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the button, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 89
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Start sewing.
Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so
that the speed will be slow).
■ Attaching a shank to a button
h
To sew the button with a shank, attach the button
with space between it and the fabric, and then
wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button
securely.
Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”,
and then pull the shank lever toward you.
a
1
X The sewing machine automatically stops
after sewing reinforcement stitches.
• If additional strength is needed to secure the
button, perform the button-sewing operation
twice.
a
Shank lever
After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread
with plenty of excess, wind it around the
thread between the button and the fabric, and
then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning
of the stitching.
Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at
the end and at the beginning of the stitching on
the wrong side of the fabric.
• Do not press
(“Thread Cutter” button).
b
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the
bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
Pull the upper thread at the end of the stitching
to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it
with the bobbin thread.
i
Cut off any excess thread.
When you are finished attaching the button,
c
j
slide the drop feed lever to
(to the right
as seen from the rear of the machine) to raise
the feed dogs.
a
a
Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
Memo
z The feed dog position switch is normally set
to the right side (as seen from the rear of
machine).
z The feed dogs come up when you start
sewing again.
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Zipper Insertion
A zipper can be sewn in place.
Numeric
Key
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Pattern
Presser
Foot
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Straightstitch
(center
Attaching zippers
Sewing concealed
seams and pintucks
I
03
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–5.0
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
needle
position)
There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side
zipper are described below.
Press open the seam allowance from the
wrong side of the fabric.
3
c
Inserting a centered zipper
Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted
against each other.
1
2
1
a
Wrong side of fabric
Align the seam with the center of the zipper,
and then baste the zipper in place.
d
3
a
b
c
Right side of fabric
Stitching
End of zipper opening
2
Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight stitches
up to the zipper opening.
a
1
With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.
3
a
b
c
Wrong side of fabric
Basting stitching
Zipper
• For details, refer to “Basic stitching” (page
81).
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the
edge of the fabric.
b
1
3
2
4
a
b
c
d
Basting stitching
Reverse stitches
Wrong side of fabric
End of zipper opening
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
of zipper foot “I”.
Topstitch around the zipper.
e
g
1
1
3
I
2
2
4
a
b
Pin on the right side
Needle drop point
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
03
Select stitch
.
f
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
a
b
c
d
Stitching
Right side of fabric
Basting stitching
End of zipper opening
CAUTION
● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) to check
that the needle does not touch the presser
foot. If a different stitch is selected or the
needle hits the presser foot, the needle
may bend or break.
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
Remove the basting stitching.
h
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Press open the seam allowance from the
wrong side of the fabric.
c
Inserting a side zipper
Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use this
type of zipper application for side openings and back
1
openings.
1
a
Wrong side of fabric
2
Press the seam allowance so that the right side
(the side that will not be stitched) has an extra
3 mm (1/8 inch).
d
3
3
a
b
c
Stitching
Right side of fabric
End of zipper opening
1
The following procedure will describe how to stitch
on the left side, as shown in the illustration.
2
Wrong side of fabric
3 mm (1/8 inch)
Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight stitches
a
b
a
up to the zipper opening.
With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.
Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of
the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch),
and then baste or pin the zipper in place.
e
• For details, refer to “Basic stitching” (page
81).
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the
edge of the fabric.
2
b
1
1
a
b
Zipper teeth
Basting stitching
3
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
of zipper foot “I”.
2
f
If the stitching will be sewn on the right side,
attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of
the zipper foot.
4
a
b
c
d
Basting stitching
Reverse stitches
Wrong side of fabric
End of zipper opening
1
I
2
a
b
Pin on the right side
Needle drop point
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then
baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.
03
Select stitch
.
j
g
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
CAUTION
● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) to check
that the needle does not touch the presser
foot. If a different stitch is selected or the
needle hits the presser foot, the needle
may bend or break.
1
a
Basting stitching
Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin
of zipper foot “I”.
If the presser foot holder was attached to the
k
right pin in step
f
, change it to the left pin.
Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the
h
extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base
of the zipper.
1
I
2
a
b
Pin on the left side
Needle drop point
Topstitch around the zipper.
l
Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper
opening and align the zipper teeth with the side
of the presser foot.
CAUTION
3
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
4
2
1
5
When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the
i
end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise
the presser foot lever, and then open the
zipper and continue sewing.
a
b
c
d
e
Right side of fabric
End of zipper opening
Reverse stitches
Beginning of stitching
Basting stitching
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the
end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
m
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise
the presser foot lever, and then open the
zipper and continue sewing.
Remove the basting stitching.
n
3
Zipper Insertion 95
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Zipper/piping Insertion
A zipper and piping can be sewn in place.
Numeric
Key
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Pattern
Presser
Foot
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Straightstitch
(left needle
position)
Attaching zippers
Sewing concealed
seams and piping
01
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–5.0
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
There are many methods for inserting zippers and pipings. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper
and a piping are described below, with the adjustable zipper/piping foot.
Slide the presser foot over either the left or
right feed dog.
e
Inserting a centered zipper
Refer to step
zipper” (page 91).
a
–
d
of “Inserting a centered
a
b
Remove the presser foot and presser foot
holder (page 43) to attach the screw-on
adjustable zipper/piping foot.
Left sewing position
Right sewing position
Change the needle position so that the needle
does not touch the presser foot.
For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width”
(page 58).
f
Note
z Use a screw driver to securely tighten the
screw that holds the presser foot. If the screw
is loose, the needle may break and cause
injures.
1
a
Needle drop point
01
Select stitch
.
CAUTION
c
d
● After adjusting the needle position, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you and
check the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
Loosen the positioning screw on the back of
the presser foot.
1
a
Positioning screw
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Securely tighten the positioning screw with a
screwdriver.
g
Inserting a piping
Place the piping between two fabric pieces
turned inside out, as shown below.
a
1
1
2
3
a
Positioning screw
a
b
c
Fabric
Piping
Fabric
Topstitch around the zipper.
h
Refer to the steps of attaching the adjustable
zipper/piping foot (page 96).
3
b
c
1
3
Sew along the piping.
2
4
After sewing, turn fabric pieces.
d
a
b
c
d
Stitching
Right side of fabric
Basting stitching
End of zipper opening
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
Remove the basting stitching.
i
Zipper/piping Insertion 97
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape
Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.
Numeric
Key
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Pattern
Presser
Foot
Stitch Name
Stretch stitch
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
05
09
10
1.0
1.0–3.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Stretch fabrics
(1/16) (1/16–1/8) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
2-point
zigzag stitch
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
–
–
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Attaching elastic
J
3-point
zigzag stitch
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Elastic-
attaching
stitch
34
Attaching elastic to
stretch fabrics
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.0
0.2–4.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.
Stretch stitching
Elastic attaching
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a
piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that
of the stretched elastic tape. therefore, it is necessary
that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
a
J
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the
fabric.
a
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points
to make sure that the tape is uniformly
positioned on the fabric.
05
Select stitch
.
b
c
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
1
2
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
a
b
Elastic tape
Pin
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Select a stitch.
c
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while
stretching the tape so that it is the same length
d
as the fabric.
3
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot
with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin
nearest the front of the presser foot with your
right hand.
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch any pins, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 99
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.
Numeric
Key
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Pattern
Presser
Foot
Stitch Name
Zigzag stitch
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Attaching appliqués
(center baseline/
reverse stitching)
07
24
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Appliqué quilting,
free-motion quilting,
satin stitching
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
–
19
25
3.5
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.6–4.0
–
–
Attaching appliqués
(1/8)
(3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Appliqué
stitch
Attaching appliqués
and binding
1.5
0.5–5.0
1.8
1.0–4.0
(1/16) (1/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Piecing straight
stitching (with a seam
allowance of 6.5 mm
(1/4 inch) from the
right edge of the
presser foot)
21
22
5.5
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
0.2–5.0
–
–
(7/32)
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Piecing
straight stitch
Piecing straight
J
stitching (with a seam
allowance of 6.5 mm
(1/4 inch) from the left
edge of the presser
foot)
1.5
(1/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
0.2–5.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
28
29
30
4.0
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
–
–
–
(3/16)
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Joining stitch
Patchwork stitching
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Straight stitch quilting
that looks hand
quilting
23
26
Mock hand
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
–
–
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
quilting stitch
Quilting
stippling
7.0
(1/4)
1.0–7.0
1.6
1.0–4.0
Stippling
(1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Attach the open toe foot.
d
Appliqué stitching
For best results, use the included open toe foot.
Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam
allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and
a
3/16 inch).
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Select a stitch.
1
e
f
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
Turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise), and then begin sewing
around the edge of the appliqué, making sure
that the needle drops just outside of the
appliqué.
a
Seam allowance
3
Place a pattern made of thick paper or
stabilizer on the back of the appliqué, and then
fold over the seam allowance using an iron.
b
• Remove the thick paper after pressing the
seam allowance.
Turn the fabric over, and then baste or pin it
onto the fabric that it will be attached to.
c
When sewing around corners, stop the
machine with the needle in the fabric just
outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot
lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to
change the sewing direction.
1
a
Basting stitching
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 101
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Patchwork (crazy quilt)
stitching
Piecing
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called
“piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a
6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance.
Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and
a
place it over the lower piece.
Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from
either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the
pattern spans over both pieces.
b
Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the
fabric that you wish to piece together.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
21
22
Select stitch
or
.
c
d
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned
with the edge of the fabric.
■ For a seam allowance on the right side
Align the right side of the presser foot with
the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch
21
.
1
a
6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
■ For a seam allowance on the left side
Quilting
Align the left side of the presser foot with the
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch
Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom
layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily
be sewn using the walking foot and the optional
quilting guide.
22
.
1
Baste the fabric to be quilted.
a
Attach the walking foot.
b
• For details, refer to “Using the walking foot”
(page 44).
a
6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
Select a stitch.
c
• For details, refer to “Selecting Stitching”
(page 70).
3
Memo
z To change the width of the seam allowance
Place one hand on each side of the presser
foot, and hold fabric taut while sewing.
(the needle position), adjust the stitch width.
d
Note
z When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a
speed between slow and medium.
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 103
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
■ Using the optional quilting guide
Free-motion quilting
Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that
are equally spaced.
With free-motion quilting, lower the feed dogs (using
the drop feed lever) so that the fabric can be moved
freely in any direction.
The quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting.
Insert the stem of the quilting guide into the
hole at the rear of the walking foot or presser
foot holder.
a
Walking foot
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot
holder.
a
• Refer to “Removing the presser foot holder”
(page 43).
Secure the quilting foot with the presser foot
holder screw.
b
The pin on the quilting foot should be
positioned over the needle clamp screw.
Presser foot holder
1
3
2
Adjust the stem of the quilting guide so that
the guide aligns with the seam that has already
been sewn.
a
b
c
Pin on quilting foot
Presser foot holder screw
Needle clamp screw
b
Hold the quilting foot in place with your right
hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder
screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.
c
1
Note
z The optional quilting guide is available
through your dealer.
a
Presser foot holder screw
CAUTION
● Be sure to securely tighten the screws
with the screwdriver, otherwise the
needle may touch the presser foot,
causing it to bend or break.
104
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Slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear of
d
Satin stitching using the
sewing speed controller
the machine on the base, to
(to the left as
seen from the rear of the machine).
A decorative stitch can be sewn by changing the
stitch width of a satin stitch. If the sewing machine is
set so that the stitch width can be adjusted using the
sewing speed controller, the stitch width can quickly
and easily be adjusted. In this case, the sewing speed
is adjusted with the foot controller.
a
a
Feed dog position switch (as seen from the rear of
the machine)
Connect the foot controller.
a
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
52).
X The feed dogs are lowered.
Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a
stitch.
e
f
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
3
J
Use both hands to hold the fabric taut, and
then move the fabric to follow the pattern.
Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the
beginning and end of sewing.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
1
Turn on the sewing machine, and then press
c
(Settings key) in the operation panel.
X The settings screen appears.
a
Pattern
After sewing is finished, slide the drop feed
lever to (to the right as seen from the rear
of the machine) to raise the feed dogs.
Press
or
(Stitch length keys) until
g
d
is displayed.
a
X The screen for specifying that the stitch
width can be controlled with the sewing
speed controller appears.
a
Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
• Normally, the drop feed lever is positioned at
the right.
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 105
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Press
.
or
(Stitch width keys) to select
, press or (Stitch
When you are finished sewing, set the stitch
width control setting back to OFF.
e
i
To return to
width keys).
Memo
z
Although the stitching result differs depending
on the type of fabric being sewn and the
thickness of the thread being used, for best
results, adjust the stitch length to between 0.3
and 0.5 mm (1/64 and 1/32 inch).
X The machine is now set so that the stitch
width can be controlled with the sewing
speed controller.
Press
key).
(OK key) or
(Cancel/clear
f
g
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
24
Select stitch
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
While sewing, slide the sewing speed
controller to adjust the stitch width.
Slide the controller to the left to make the width
narrower. Slide the controller to the right to
make the width wider.
h
Narrower
Wider
• Adjust the sewing speed with the foot
controller.
106
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Reinforcement Stitching
Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.
Numeric
Key
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Pattern
Presser
Foot
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Reinforcing the seams
of sleeves and
inseams
04
60
Triple stretch
stitch
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.5–4.0
J
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Reinforcing the ends
of openings, such as
the corners of pockets
Bar tack
stitch
2.0
1.0–3.0
0.4
0.3–1.0
–
(1/16) (1/16–1/8) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
58
59
Darning medium
weight fabrics
7.0
2.5–7.0
2.0
0.4–2.5
A
–
–
(1/4)
(3/32–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/32)
Darning
stitch
3
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
2.0
0.4–2.5
Darning thick fabrics
(3/32–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/32)
Triple stretch stitching
Bar tack stitching
Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes
and inseams.
Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to
strain, such as pocket corners and openings.
As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at
pocket corners is described below.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Determine the desired length of the bar tack.
Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot
04
a
Select stitch
.
b
c
“A” to the desired length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot scale
is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
1
Start sewing.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
52).
2
3
a
b
c
Presser foot scale
Length of bar tack
5 mm (3/16 inch)
• A bar tack with a maximum length of about
28 mm (1–1/8 inches) can be sewn.
Reinforcement Stitching 107
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
possible.
b
e
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
60
Select stitch
.
c
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
a
Position the fabric so that the opening of the
pocket faces toward you, and then lower the
presser foot lever so that the needle drops
2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket
opening.
a
Buttonhole lever
d
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
1
2
1
a
b
Buttonhole lever
Bracket
a
2 mm (1/16 inch)
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
your left hand, and then start sewing.
f
Pass the upper thread down through the hole in
the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
bar tack will not be sewn with the correct
size.
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops.
Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever,
and then remove the fabric.
g
h
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
position.
a
a
Do not reduce the gap.
Memo
z If the fabric does not feed, for example,
because it is too thick, increase the stitch
length. For details, refer to “Adjusting the
stitch length” (page 59).
108
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Darning
Fabric that has been torn can be darned.
Darning is sewn as shown below.
1
3
1
a
Reinforcement stitching
Determine the desired length of the darning.
Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot
“A” to the desired length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot scale
is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
Position the fabric so that the needle is 2 mm
(1/16 inch) in front of the area to be darned,
and then lower the presser foot lever.
a
d
1
2
1
2
a
b
Tear
2 mm (1/16 inch)
3
Pass the upper thread down through the hole in
the presser foot.
4
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
darning will not be sewn with the correct
size.
a
b
c
d
Presser foot scale
Length of darning
5 mm (3/16 inch)
7 mm (1/4 inch)
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
b
c
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
58
59
Select stitch
or
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
a
a
Do not reduce the gap.
Reinforcement Stitching 109
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
possible.
e
a
Buttonhole lever
a
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
1
2
a
b
Buttonhole lever
Bracket
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
your left hand, and then start sewing.
f
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops.
Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever,
and then remove the fabric.
g
h
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
position.
Memo
z If the fabric does not feed, for example,
because it is too thick, increase the stitch
length. For details, refer to “Adjusting the
stitch length” (page 59).
110
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Eyelet Stitching
Eyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn. Three sizes of eyelets are possible: 7 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm
(1/4, 15/64 and 3/16 inch).
Pattern
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Stitch Name
Eyelet stitch
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
7.0, 6.0 or
5.0
62
Sewing eyelets, for example, on
belts
7.0
–
–
N
(1/4) (1/4, 15/64
or 3/16)
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
Start sewing.
a
e
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops.
3
Use the eyelet punch to cut a hole in the
center of the eyelet.
f
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
62
Select stitch
.
b
c
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
Adjust either the stitch width or the stitch
length to select the desired eyelet size.
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
6 mm
(15/64 inch)
7 mm
(1/4 inch)
5 mm
(3/16 inch)
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
width” (page 58).
Memo
z If light weight thread is used, the stitching
may be sparse. If this occurs, sew the eyelet
twice before removing the fabric, one on top
of the other.
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
beginning of the stitching, and then lower the
presser foot lever.
d
Eyelet Stitching 111
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Decorative Stitching
Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.
Pattern
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
32
33
28
29
30
20
31
32
33
27
39
40
41
42
43
44
5.0
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
(3/16)
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Fagoting
stitch
Sewing two pieces of fabric
together across an open seam
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
(3/16) (3/25–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Joining stitch
Decorative bridging stitches
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
J
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Shell tuck
stitch
Shell tuck stitching on collars
and curves
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–4.0
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
1.0–4.0
(1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Smocking
stitch
Smocking fabrics to add texture
and elasticity
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
5.0
2.5–7.0
0.5
0.1–1.0
Scallop stitch
Satin scallop stitching
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
3.5
(1/8)
1.5–7.0
2.5
1.6–4.0
(1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Lace sewing, decorative
hemming, heirloom stitching,
etc.
6.0
1.5–7.0
3.0
1.5–4.0
(15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)
5.0
1.5–7.0
3.5
1.5–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)
N
5.0
1.5–7.0
4.0
1.5–4.0
Decorative hemming and
heirloom stitching, etc. on thin,
medium weight and plain weave
fabrics
Hemstitching
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/16) (1/16–3/16)
5.0
1.5–7.0
2.5
1.5–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
5.0
1.5–7.0
2.0
1.5–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Decorative hemming, ribbon
threading, heirloom stitching,
etc.
45
5.0
1.5–7.0
3.0
1.5–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)
112
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Pattern
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
46
47
35
36
37
38
6.0
1.5–7.0
1.6
1.0–4.0
(15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Hemstitching
Ladder stitch
Heirloom stitching, etc.
N
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.6
1.0–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
3.0
2.0–4.0
(1/8) (1/16–3/16)
Rick-rack
stitch
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
J
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Decorative stitching
Decorative
stitch
5.5
(7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
1.0–4.0
(1/16) (1/16–3/16)
3
Serpentine
stitch
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
N
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
32
33
Select stitch
or
.
d
Fagoting
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It
is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch
is more decorative when thicker thread is used.
Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).
e
f
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
width” (page 58).
Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric
along their seams.
a
Sew with the center of the presser foot aligned
along the center of the two pieces of fabric.
Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by
about 4 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a
b
sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.
If you draw a line down the middle of the thin
paper or water-soluble stabilizer, sewing is
easier.
3
1
2
a
b
c
Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer
Basting stitching
4 mm (3/16 inch)
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
After sewing is finished, remove the paper.
c
g
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Decorative Stitching 113
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Scallop stitching
Smocking
The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like
shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars of
blouses and to decorate the edges of handkerchiefs.
The decorative stitch created by stitching or
embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is
used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.
The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to
fabric.
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
27
Select stitch
.
b
c
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the
stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen
the thread tension.
b
Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making sure
not to sew directly on the edge of the fabric.
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
length” (page 59) and “Changing the tension
of the upper thread” (page 57).
Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm
(3/8 inch).
c
1
• For better results, apply spray starch to the
fabric and press with a hot iron before it is
sewn.
Trim along the stitches.
d
a
1 cm (3/8 inch)
• It is not necessary to sew reverse/
reinforcement stitches or cut the thread.
• At the end of the stitching, the thread is
pulled out about 5 cm (2 inches).
Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.
Smooth the gathers by ironing them.
d
• Be careful not to cut the stitches.
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31
32
33
Select stitch
,
or
.
20
Select stitch
, and then increase the
e
c
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
thread tension.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
Stitch between the straight stitches.
f
Sew while making sure that the needle drops
slightly off the edge of the fabric.
d
1
Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.
3
g
a
Needle drop point
Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks
down to one side.
Shell tuck stitching
e
The gathers that look like shells are called “shell
tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of
blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.
Fold the fabric along the bias.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Decorative Stitching 115
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Joining
Heirloom stitching
Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the
seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when
making a crazy quilt.
When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes
are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch.
This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin
or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave
fabrics.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
J
Note
z If the thread becomes tangled, use stabilizer
material.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Install the wing needle.
a
Sew together the right sides of the two pieces
of fabric, and then open up the seam
b
allowances.
2
• Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.
1
• For details on installing a needle, refer to
“Replacing the needle” (page 39).
1
• The needle threader cannot be used with the
wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine
may be damaged. Manually pass the thread
through the eye of the needle from the front
to the back.
3
a
b
c
Wrong side of fabric
6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance
Straight stitch
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
28
29
30
b
Select stitch
,
or
.
c
d
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
Turn the fabric over so that the right side faces
up, and then sew over the seam with the
center of the presser foot aligned with the
seam.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Select a stitch.
c
39
40
The stitches that can be used are
,
,
a
41
47
42
43
44
45
46
,
.
,
,
,
,
or
a
Right side of fabric
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
• Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch)
or less.
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Start sewing.
39
Select stitch
.
d
c
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew
along the right edge of the frayed section.
CAUTION
d
● Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64
inch) or less, otherwise the needle may
bend or break.
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
N
3
Press
(Settings key) in the operation
e
Partially removing threads is called “drawnwork”.
This gives a beautiful result with fabrics that have a
loose weave.
panel.
X The settings screen appears.
Two ways to create drawnwork are described below.
■ Drawnwork (Example 1)
Press
or
(Stitch length keys) until
f
is displayed.
Pull out several threads from the fabric.
a
X
9
The screen for mirror imaging the pattern
appears.
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
b
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Decorative Stitching 117
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Press
.
or
(Stitch width keys) to select
, press or (Stitch
■ Drawnwork (Example 2)
g
To return to
width keys).
Pull out several threads from two sections of
the fabric, separated by an unfrayed section of
a
about 4 mm (3/16 inch).
X The pattern is flipped.
Press
key).
(OK key) or
(Cancel/clear
h
1
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
a
4 mm (3/16 inch)
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
b
Sew along the other edge of the frayed section
so that it looks like the previous stitching.
i
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
42
Select stitch
.
N
c
d
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
72).
Sew along the center of the unfrayed section.
Set the mirror image pattern setting back to
.
j
N
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns
Satin stitches, cross-stitches and decorative satin stitches can be sewn. All are sewn with monogramming
foot “N”.
Start sewing.
c
Sewing beautiful patterns
In order to sew the patterns correctly, the following
must be considered.
■ Fabric
Before sewing stretch or thin fabrics or fabrics
with a coarse weave, affix the optional stabilizer
material to the wrong side of the fabric or place a
thin sheet of paper, such as tracing paper, under
the fabric. Since material puckering or bunched
stitches may occur when satin stitches are sewn,
be sure to affix stabilizer material to the fabric.
3
■ Needles and threads
When sewing thin, medium weight or stretch
fabrics, use the ball point needle. When sewing
• The stitching is sewn in the direction
thick fabrics, use a 90/14 home sewing machine
indicated by the arrow.
needle. In addition, 75/11 to 90/14 thread should
be used.
Sew reinforcement stitches.
d
When sewing with a character stitch,
■ Trial sewing
reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn
Depending on the type and thickness of the fabric
after each character.
being sewn and whether or not stabilizer material
• When sewing a pattern with a stitch other
than a character stitch, it is useful to first set
the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching
setting. For details, refer to “Automatically
sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches” (page
60).
is used, the desired result may not be achieved.
Be sure to sew a trial piece of fabric before
sewing your project. In addition, while sewing, be
sure to guide the fabric with your hands in order
to prevent the fabric from slipping.
When you are finished sewing, use scissors to
trim off any excess threads at the beginning of
the stitching and between the patterns.
Sewing patterns
e
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
a
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Select a stitch.
b
• For details, refer to steps
d
through
f
of
“Selecting stitching” (page 72).
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Repeat steps
b
.
c
Combining patterns
Multiple patterns can be combined and sewn
together.
After all of the desired patterns are selected,
start sewing.
Decorative stitches and character stitches (stitches
d
selected with
and
) can be combined.
1
However, utility stitches (stitches selected with
and
) cannot be combined.
Select the first pattern.
a
Sewing direction
a
X The first pattern is selected and appears in
X The order that the patterns appear in the
the LCD.
LCD is the order that they will be sewn.
• When the sewing is started, the selected
pattern is sewn repeatedly until the sewing
machine is stopped.
Select the next pattern.
b
Use the numeric keys to type in the number for
the desired stitch.
Note
z When the combined pattern is sewn at least
one time, sewing of the combined pattern is
temporarily stopped. Typing in the number
of a stitch after sewing clears the combined
pattern and selects the new stitch, instead of
adding the new stitch to the combined
pattern.
To change the stitch type, press
(Decorative stitch key) or
(Character
stitch key). After the icon for the desired stitch
mode appears in the lower-left corner of the
screen, type in the number for the desired
stitch.
z If you do not wish to clear the pattern, save it
before typing in the number of the new
stitch. For details on saving patterns, refer to
“Saving patterns” (page 126).
Memo
z Up to 70 patterns can be combined.
z If multiple patterns have been combined, the
sewing machine stops once all the selected
patterns displayed in the LCD have been
sewn. To repeatedly sew the combined
pattern, refer to “Repeat sewing patterns”.
z The combined pattern can be saved for later
use. For details, refer to “Saving patterns”
(page 126).
X The combined patterns appear in the LCD.
• To remove a selected pattern, press
(Cancel/clear key) in the operation panel.
The pattern that was selected last is removed.
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Press
key).
(OK key) or
(Cancel/clear
e
Repeat sewing patterns
X The initial stitch screen appears again, and
the machine is set to repeatedly sew the
selected pattern.
To repeatedly sew the combined pattern, follow the
procedure described below.
Select the pattern.
1
2
a
• For details, refer to “Combining patterns”
(page 120).
Press
panel.
(Settings key) in the operation
b
X The settings screen appears.
3
Press
or
(Stitch length keys) until
c
is displayed.
a
b
Single
Repeated
Note
z If repeated sewing is set, the pattern is
repeatedly sewn until the sewing machine is
stopped.
X The screen for specifying repeat sewing
z If the sewing machine is turned off, the
repeated/single sewing setting returns to its
default setting.
appears.
Checking the selected pattern
Press
(repeat sewing).
To return to (single sewing), press
(Stitch width keys).
or
(Stitch width keys) to select
d
Up to 70 patterns can be combined. If all of the
selected patterns cannot be displayed in the LCD at
the same time, the pattern can be checked according
to the following procedure.
or
Press
panel.
(Settings key) in the operation
a
X The settings screen appears.
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 121
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Press
or
(Stitch length keys) until
b
Changing the pattern size
is displayed.
The size of character stitches in the Gothic font (
selected with
) and outline style (
selected
with ) can be switched between large and small.
However, the size of other patterns cannot be
changed. For details on the stitch patterns whose size
can be changed, refer to “Other stitches” (page 138).
X The screen for checking the pattern appears.
Select a stitch.
Select a pattern whose size can be changed.
a
Press
panel.
(Settings key) in the operation
b
Press
or
(Stitch width keys) to scroll
c
through the pattern and check it.
X The settings screen appears.
Press
or
(Stitch length keys) until
c
is displayed.
• Press
the key is pressed while the leftmost (first) pattern is
displayed, a beep sounds.
to scroll through the pattern to the left. If
• Press to scroll through the pattern to the right.
If the key is pressed while only the rightmost (last)
pattern is displayed, a beep sounds.
X The screen for changing the pattern size
appears.
Press
key).
(OK key) or
(Cancel/clear
d
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Press
or
(Stitch width keys) until the
d
Changing the stitch density
desired size is selected.
Select
for the small size or select
for the
If a decorative satin stitch has been selected, the
stitch density can be changed.
large size.
Select a decorative satin stitch (No. 53–62 of
a
, selected with
).
Press
panel.
(Settings key) in the operation
b
X The settings screen appears.
3
X The pattern size is changed.
Press
key).
(OK key) or
(Cancel/clear
e
f
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
Press
or
(Stitch length keys) until
c
Repeat steps
a
through
e
.
is displayed.
X The screen for specifying the stitching
density of the decorative satin stitch appears.
Memo
z The large pattern size is the default. If the
small pattern size is selected, small patterns
can be combined and connected.
z If multiple patterns have been combined, the
size of each selected pattern can be
specified.
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 123
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Press
or
(Stitch width keys) until the
Press
or
(Stitch length keys) until
d
c
desired density is selected.
is displayed.
Select
for sparse stitching or select
for
compact stitching.
X The screen for changing the length of a satin
stitch appears.
Press
(OK key) or
(Cancel/clear key).
Press
or
(Stitch width keys) until the
e
d
desired ratio is selected.
The length can be set within the range of
and
X The initial stitch screen appears again, and
the stitching density is changed.
.
CAUTION
● If the stitching density is too compacted,
depending on the needle, the stitches may
be bunched together, causing the needle
to break.
• Press
to reduce the length. If the key is
pressed while the smallest setting (×1) is
displayed, a beep sounds.
Changing the pattern length
The length of one part of a satin stitch can be set to
one of five sizes.
• Press
to increase the length. If the key is
pressed while the largest setting (×5) is
displayed, a beep sounds.
Select a satin stitch (No. 32–47 of
selected with ).
,
a
X The satin stitch length is changed.
Press
key).
(OK key) or
(Cancel/clear
e
Press
(Settings key) in the operation
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
b
panel.
X The settings screen appears.
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Press
key).
(OK key) or
(Cancel/clear
e
Mirror imaging the pattern
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
The pattern can be mirror imaged along a vertical
axis.
1
2
Select a stitch.
a
Press
(Settings key) in the operation
b
panel.
a
b
Normal
Mirror-imaged
X The settings screen appears.
Memo
z Some of the utility stitches, most of the
decorative stitches, and all of the character
stitches can be mirror imaged.
z Mirror imaged patterns can also be
combined with other patterns.
3
Press
or
(Stitch length keys) until
is
c
displayed.
X The screen for mirror imaging the pattern
appears.
Press
.
or
(Stitch width keys) to select
, press or (Stitch
d
To return to
width keys).
X The pattern is mirror imaged.
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 125
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Check the contents, and then press
key).
The contents saved in the selected pocket are
(OK
d
Saving patterns
overwritten.
Combined patterns can be saved for later use. Since
saved patterns are not lost after the sewing machine is
turned off, they can be retrieved at any time. This is
convenient for patterns, such as names, that will be
used often. Utility stitches can also be saved. Up to
ten patterns can be saved.
X “Saving...” appears while the pattern is being
saved in the pocket.
X After the pattern is saved, a beep is sounded,
and the initial stitch screen appears again.
Create the combined pattern that you wish to
save. Otherwise, display the pattern to be
Note
a
z Do not turn off the sewing machine while a
pattern is being saved, otherwise the pattern
data may be lost.
saved.
• For details, refer to “Combining patterns”
(page 120).
Memo
z The pattern saved in the pocket can be
erased by performing the save operation
with no pattern selected.
Press
panel.
(Memory key) in the operation
b
X The machine enters pattern memory mode,
and appears in the upper-left corner of
Retrieving a pattern
the screen.
Press
(Preset utility stitch/saved pattern
a
key) in the operation panel.
X After
the machine enters retrieve pattern mode,
and appears in the lower-left corner of
appears in the center of the screen,
Press the numeric key (0 through 9) for the
pocket where the pattern is to be saved.
c
the screen.
X The saved contents of the pocket for the
selected number are displayed.
• If nothing has been saved, nothing appears in
the bottom of the screen.
• If the pocket contains a pattern, the pattern is
displayed. To leave this pattern in the pocket,
select a different pocket.
Memo
z Each time
(Preset utility stitch/saved
pattern key) is pressed, the machine switches
between the preset utility stitch mode and
the saved pattern mode. (For details on the
preset utility stitch mode, refer to “Selecting
stitch types and patterns” (page 70).
126
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Press the numeric key (0 through 9) for the
pocket where the pattern is saved.
Start sewing.
b
c
X The saved contents of the pocket for the
selected number are retrieved.
X The pattern for making the adjustment is
sewn.
X The sewing machine stops after it has
finished sewing the pattern.
• If nothing was saved in the selected pocket, a
beep is sounded, and the screen displayed
before the numeric key was pressed appears
again.
Check the sewn pattern.
d
If the part of the pattern indicated in the
illustration is sewn uniformly, the pattern is
correctly aligned.
• To select a different pocket, use the numeric
keys to type in the number of a different
pocket.
3
Memo
z After a decorative stitch or character stitch
If the pattern is not sewn correctly, follow the
steps below to adjust the sewing.
pattern is retrieved, press
stitch key) or (Character stitch key) to
combine additional patterns with it or edit it.
(Decorative
Press
(Settings key) in the operation
e
panel.
X The settings screen appears.
Realigning the pattern
The pattern may not be sewn correctly, depending on
the type of fabric being sewn or the sewing speed. If
this occurs, adjust the pattern while sewing on a
piece of scrap fabric that is the same as that used for
your project.
Press
or
(Stitch length keys) until
is
f
displayed.
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
a
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
X The screen for adjusting the pattern appears.
Select
).
(No. 31 of
, selected with
b
Press
(Decorative stitch key), and then use
the numeric keys to type in “31”.
X The pattern alignment stitch is selected.
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 127
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Press
or
(Stitch width keys).
g
X Make the necessary adjustments according
to how the pattern is sewn.
Press
(Stitch width key) to increase the
adjustment setting.
Press
(Stitch width key) to decrease the
adjustment setting.
Start sewing again, and then check the pattern.
Continue adjusting the pattern until it is sewn
correctly.
h
i
When the pattern is sewn correctly, press
(OK key) or
(Cancel/clear key).
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
128
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Designing a Pattern
With the My Custom Stitch function, you can sew stitch patterns that you design yourself.
Mark the points in the pattern that are
c
Drawing a sketch of the
pattern
positioned at intersections in the grid, and
then link those points with a continuous
straight line.
Prepare a grid sheet set.
Draw a sketch of the pattern on the grid sheet
set.
a
3
Determine the sewing order.
d
9
8
6
7
5
4
10
11
12
3
13
2
0
1
16
15
17
Draw the pattern as one continuous line and
with the start point and the end point of the
design at the same height.
14
For a more attractive stitch, close the pattern by
intersecting the line.
If the pattern will be repeated, determine the
space between the repeating patterns.
b
Designing a Pattern 129
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Check the grid sheet set, and specify the
coordinates of the first point.
d
Entering the pattern data
Press
and
(Stitch width keys) to select
Follow the pattern drawn on the grid sheet and
program the pattern into the sewing machine.
the horizontal coordinate and press
and
(Stitch length keys) to select the vertical
coordinate, and then press
(OK key).
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
a
2
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
1
a
b
Stitch width keys
Stitch length keys
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Select
).
(No. 99 of
, selected with
c
Press
(Decorative stitch key), and then use
the numeric keys to type in “99”.
Specify the coordinates of the second point,
and then press (OK key).
e
X The screen for entering a pattern appears.
X A screen appears, allowing you to specify
the settings for the stitching between the two
points.
1
Specify whether single stitching or triple
stitching will be sewn between the points.
f
3
2
Press
for single stitching or for triple stitching,
and then press (OK key).
and
(Stitch width keys) to select
a
Number of the current point/Total number of
points
b
c
Horizontal coordinate (0–79)
Vertical coordinate (0–14)
X A screen for selecting the next operation
appears.
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Select
, and then press
(OK key).
Specify the various stitching settings, such as
reverse/reinforcement stitching, in the same
way as with other stitches.
g
j
• If you make a mistake while specifying a
point, press (Cancel/clear key) so that
the point changes from to , and
• With this screen displayed, pressing
(Cancel/clear key) displays the screen where
points can be edited so that points can be
added or removed.
then move (edit) the position of the point.
X A screen for specifying the next point
appears.
Repeat steps
point.
Up to 99 points can be entered.
e
through
g
to specify each
h
Memo
z To save the entered pattern data, save it from
the sewing screen. For details, refer to
“Saving patterns” (page 126).
3
z The pattern in the LCD will appear different
from the pattern drawn in the grid sheet set
and the actual sewn stitch. Also, refer to
these when entering the design.
■ To edit the position of a point.
The position of a point can be edited (moved) if
(Cancel/clear key) is pressed while
is displayed in the screen so that the point
changes from
to
. Each time
(Cancel/clear key) is pressed, the previous point is
selected. To select the next point, press
key).
(OK
(0
■ To delete a point
The last point can be deleted by pressing
key) while a point appears as
in the screen
where
is displayed. Each press of the
key deletes the last point in the pattern.
After all points in the pattern have been
i
specified, select
in the screen that appears
(OK key).
in step g , and then press
X The sewing screen appears.
Designing a Pattern 131
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————
Examples of designs
Enter each of the points indicated in the table to sew the sample stitch.
Point
Point
Point
Point
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
0
0
0
3
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
38
35
32
30
32
35
41
45
47
44
45
47
50
54
56
55
51
45
70
13
14
13
10
6
3
0
0
4
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
0
3
5
8
0
5
8
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
16
18
21
25
28
33
37
41
43
44
10
12
13
14
14
13
11
8
12
18
22
23
21
17
14
12
9
6
3
1
3
6
11
13
14
14
13
12
11
9
6
3
1
0
10
13
14
13
11
13
14
13
10
6
3
0
0
4
7
11
12
17
20
24
27
29
31
32
30
27
24
21
18
16
15
15
5
0
9
7
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
11
13
14
13
10
6
3
0
0
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
6
12
41
43
40
41
0
1
3
5
8
Point
Point
Point
Point
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
0
0
0
1
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
10
12
8
12
7
12
6
10
5
10
16
19
23
22
17
22
23
19
42
11
10
9
8
6
6
3
2
0
2
1
0
0
6
10
6
0
0
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
0
5
4
5
8
7
7
3
7
7
0
7
7
3
7
7
3
0
3
7
11
14
11
7
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
20
21
24
23
24
27
27
27
32
27
23
20
16
20
23
27
32
11
7
7
14
7
7
11
7
7
11
14
11
7
30
32
32
32
33
35
35
37
35
32
30
30
29
26
24
18
13
12
13
7
10
12
11
8
12
14
14
11
5
7
8
11
11
11
16
11
7
4
0
4
7
9
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
3
8
3
0
3
7
10
13
14
14
12
11
16
21
0
7
132
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4
APPENDIX
The various maintenance and troubleshooting procedures are described in this chapter.
Stitch Settings........................................................................................................134
Utility stitches..................................................................................................134
Other stitches...................................................................................................138
Care and Maintenance ..........................................................................................142
Cleaning the machine surface.............................................................................142
Cleaning the race .............................................................................................142
Troubleshooting ....................................................................................................144
Error messages .................................................................................................148
Nothing appears in the LCD.............................................................................149
Operation beep................................................................................................149
Cancelling the operation beep............................................................................149
Index .....................................................................................................................151
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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————
Stitch Settings
Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility
stitches in the following table.
Utility stitches
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Programmed
Thread-Cutting
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
01
02
03
Basic stitching, sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–5.0
Yes
Reverse +
J
J
Reverse
Reinforcement
Reverse
No
Yes
No
(3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J)
thread-cutting
Basic stitching and
sewing gathers or
pintucks
Straight
stitch
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–5.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
(3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J)
Attaching zippers, basic
J/I stitching, sewing gathers
or pintucks, etc.
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–5.0
Yes
Reverse +
thread-cutting
(3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J)
Attaching sleeves,
sewing inseams, sewing
stretch fabrics and
decorative stitching
04
Triple
stretch
stitch
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.5–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
J
Reinforcement
No
(3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)
05
06
07
08
Stretch
stitch
Sewing stretch fabrics
and decorative stitching
1.0
1.0–3.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
J
Reinforcement
No
No
No
Yes
(1/16) (1/16–1/8) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)
Basting
stitch
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
J
J
J
Temporarily securing
–
–
No Reinforcement
Overcasting and
attaching appliqués
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Yes
Reverse +
thread-cutting
Reverse
(J)
Zigzag
stitch
Beginning sewing from
the right needle position
3.5
2.5–5.0
1.4
0.3–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
Reinforcement
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)
Overcasting on medium
weight or stretch fabrics,
attaching elastic,
09
10
2-point
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
J
J
Reinforcement
Reinforcement
Yes
No
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)
zigzag stitch
darning, etc.
Overcasting on medium
weight or stretch fabrics,
attaching elastic,
3-point
zigzag stitch
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)
darning, etc.
11
12
13
14
15
Overcasting on thin or
medium weight fabrics
3.5
2.5–5.0
2.0
1.0–4.0
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
G
G
G
J
No Reinforcement
No Reinforcement
No Reinforcement
No
No
No
No
No
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Overcasting on thick
fabrics
5.0
2.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
(3/16) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Preventing fraying in
thick fabrics and fabrics
that fray easily
Overcasting
stitch
5.0
3.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Overcasting on stretch
fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.5–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
Reinforcement
(3/32) (1/32–3/16) (J)
Overcasting on thick or
stretch fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.5–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
J
Reinforcement
(3/32) (1/32–3/16) (J)
134
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Programmed
Thread-Cutting
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
16
17
18
19
20
Overcasting on stretch
fabrics and decorative
stitching
Overcasting
stitch
4.0
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
4.0
1.0–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
J
R
R
J
Reinforcement
No Reinforcement
No Reinforcement
No
No
No
No
No
(3/16)
(3/16) (1/16–3/16) (J)
Blind hem stitching on
medium weight fabrics
00
(0)
2.0
1.0–3.5
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
3← – 3→
(1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Blind hem
stitch
Blind hem stitching on
stretch fabrics
00
(0)
2.0
1.0–3.5
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
3← – 3→
(1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Appliqué
stitch
3.5
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.6–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
Appliqué stitching
Shell tuck stitching
Reinforcement
(1/8) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)
Shell tuck
stitch
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
J
Reinforcement
(3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J)
Piecing straight stitching
(with a seam allowance
of 6.5 mm(1/4 inch) from
the right edge of the
presser foot)
21
22
23
5.5
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
0.2–5.0
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
J
J
J
No Reinforcement
No
Yes
No
(7/32)
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Piecing
straight
stitch
Piecing straight stitching
(with a seam allowance
of 6.5 mm(1/4 inch) from
the left edge of the
4
1.5
(1/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
0.2–5.0
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
No Reinforcement
No Reinforcement
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
presser foot)
Straight
stitch that
looks
hand-sewn
(for quilting)
Straight stitch quilting
that looks hand-sewn
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
24
25
Zigzag
stitch
Appliqué quilting, free-
motion quilting, satin
stitching
3.5
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
J
J
No Reinforcement
No Reinforcement
Yes
No
(1/8)
(1/16)
(for quilting)
Appliqué
stitch
(for quilting)
Attaching appliqués and
binding
1.5
0.5–5.0
1.8
1.0–4.0
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
(1/16) (1/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Quilting
stitch
26
Quilting background
stitching (stippling)
7.0
1.0–-7.0
1.6
1.0–4.0
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
J
No Reinforcement
No
(1/4) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
(for
stippling)
27
28
Satinscallop
stitch
5.0
2.5–7.0
0.5
0.1–1.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
N
J
Scallop stitching
Reinforcement
No
No
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) (J)
Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
Reinforcement
Reinforcement
(1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)
Patchwork stitching,
decorative stitching and
sewing overcasting on
both pieces of fabric,
such as with tricot
29
Joining
stitch
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
J
No
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)
30
31
Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching
5.0
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
J
J
Reinforcement
Reinforcement
No
No
(3/16)
(1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)
Smocking
stitch
Smocking stitching and
decorative stitching
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
1.0–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
(1/16) (1/16–3/16) (J)
Stitch Settings 135
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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Programmed
Thread-Cutting
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
Fagoting and decorative
stitching
5.0
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
J
J
Reinforcement
Reinforcement
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
(3/16)
(3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)
Fagoting
stitch
Fagoting and decorative
stitching
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)
Elastic-
attaching
stitch
Attaching elastic to
stretch fabrics
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.0
0.2–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
J
Reinforcement
(1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)
Ladder
stitch
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
3.0
2.0–4.0
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
J
Decorative stitching
Decorative stitching
Decorative stitching
No Reinforcement
(1/8) (1/16–3/16)
Rick-rack
stitch
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
Yes
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
J
(3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)
Decorative
stitch
5.5
(7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
1.0–4.0
Yes
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
J
(1/16) (1/16–3/16) (J)
Serpentine
stitch
Decorative stitching and
elastic-attaching
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
Yes
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
N
N
N
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)
Lace sewing, decorative
hemming, heirloom
stitching, etc.
3.5
1.5–7.0
2.5
1.6–4.0
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
No Reinforcement
No Reinforcement
(1/8) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Decorative hemming,
heirloom stitching, etc.
6.0
1.5–7.0
3.0
1.5–4.0
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
(15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics,
41
42
43
44
5.0
1.5–7.0
3.5
1.5–4.0
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
N
N
N
N
No Reinforcement
No Reinforcement
No Reinforcement
No Reinforcement
No
No
No
No
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)
heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics,
5.0
1.5–7.0
4.0
1.5–4.0
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/16) 1/16–3/16)
heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics,
Hem-
stitching
5.0
1.5–7.0
2.5
1.5–4.0
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics,
5.0
1.5–7.0
2.0
1.5–4.0
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
heirloom stitching, etc.
45
46
47
48
49
Decorative hemming,
ribbon threading,
heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0
1.5–7.0
3.0
1.5–4.0
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
N
N
N
A
A
No Reinforcement
No Reinforcement
No Reinforcement
No
No
No
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)
Decorative stitching,
smocking stitching,
heirloom stitching, etc.
6.0
1.5–7.0
1.6
1.0–4.0
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
(15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Decorative stitching,
smocking stitching,
heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.6
1.0–4.0
Reinforcement +
thread-cutting
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Horizontal buttonholes
on thin and medium
weight fabrics
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
Automatic
No
Thread-cutting No
Thread-cutting No
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
reinforcement
Buttonhole
stitch
Horizontal buttonholes
on areas that are subject
to strain
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
Automatic
No
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
reinforcement
136
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Programmed
Thread-Cutting
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
Horizontal buttonholes
on thick fabrics
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
Automatic
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
M
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
Thread-cutting No
Thread-cutting No
Thread-cutting No
Thread-cutting No
Thread-cutting No
Thread-cutting No
Thread-cutting No
Thread-cutting No
Thread-cutting No
Thread-cutting No
Thread-cutting No
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
reinforcement
Secured buttonholes for
fabrics that have
backings
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
Automatic
reinforcement
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
3.0–6.0
(1/8– 15/
64)
Buttonholes for stretch or
knit fabrics
6.0
(15/54)
1.0
0.5–2.0
Automatic
reinforcement
(1/16) (1/32–1/16)
3.0–6.0
(1/8– 15/
64)
Buttonholes for stretch
fabrics
6.0
(15/54)
1.5
1.0–3.0
Automatic
reinforcement
(1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Buttonhole
stitch
5.0
0.0–6.0
2.0
0.2–4.0
Automatic
reinforcement
Bound buttonholes
(3/16) (0–15/64) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Keyhole buttonholes for
thick or furry fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
0.3–1.0
Automatic
reinforcement
(1/32) (1/64–1/16)
Keyhole buttonholes for
medium weight and
thick fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
0.3–1.0
Automatic
reinforcement
(1/32) (1/64–1/16)
4
Horizontal buttonholes
for thick or furry fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
0.3–1.0
Automatic
reinforcement
(1/32) (1/64–1/16)
Darning medium weight
fabrics
7.0
2.5–7.0
2.0
0.4–2.5
Automatic
reinforcement
(1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/32)
Darning
stitch
7.0
2.5–7.0
2.0
0.4–2.5
Automatic
reinforcement
Darning thick fabrics
(1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/32)
Reinforcing openings
and areas where the
seam easily comes loose
Bar tack
stitch
2.0
1.0–3.0
0.4
0.3–1.0
Automatic
reinforcement
(1/16) (1/16–1/8) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
Button-
sewing
stitch
3.5
2.5–4.5
Automatic
reinforcement
Reinforcement +
No
Button sewing
–
–
(1/8) (3/32–3/16)
thread-cutting
7.0, 6.0,
7.0, 6.0,
5.0 (1/4,
15/64,
62
Sewing eyelets, for
example, on belts
7.0
(1/4)
5.0 (1/4,
15/64,
3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
Automatic
reinforcement
Eyelet stitch
N
No
Thread-cutting No
3/16)
63
64
65
66
67
Sewing straight stitches
while cutting the fabric
0.0
(0)
0.0–2.5
(0–3/32)
2.5
0.2–5.0
Reinforcement +
No
S
S
S
S
S
No Reinforcement
No Reinforcement
No Reinforcement
No Reinforcement
No Reinforcement
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
thread-cutting
Sewing zigzag stitches
while cutting the fabric
3.5
3.5–5.0
1.4
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Reinforcement +
No
(1/8) (1/8–3/16) (1/16)
thread-cutting
Overcasting on thin and
medium weight fabrics
while cutting the fabric
3.5
3.5–5.0
2.0
1.0–4.0
Reinforcement +
No
Side cutter
(1/8) (1/8–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
thread-cutting
Overcasting on thick
fabrics while cutting the
fabric
5.0
3.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforcement +
No
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
thread-cutting
Overcasting on medium
weight and thick fabrics
while cutting the fabric
5.0
3.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforcement +
No
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
thread-cutting
Stitch Settings 137
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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————
Other stitches
Pattern
Stitch Type
01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10
11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
Decorative
stitches
N
No
Large No
Yes
Yes
21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
31*
32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41
Satin
stitches
Yes
(J)
Large No
Yes
Yes
N
42 43 44 45 46 47
48 49 50 51 52
Cross-
stitches
N
N
No
No
Large No
Large Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62
Decorative
satin
stitches
* Pattern for making adjustment
Memo
z To select
, press
(Decorative stitch key) once.
138
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Pattern
Stitch Type
01 02 03 04 05 06 07 11 12 13
Yes
(*Not
possible)
(J)
16 17 18* 20 21 22 23 24 25 26
J**
Yes
27* 28 29
08 09 10
Utility
decorative
stitches
G**
R**
No
No
No No
Yes
No
No
14 15
4
19* 30* 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38
No
(*Not
impossible)
N
Yes
39
** Use monogramming foot “N” when combined with other pattern
Memo
z To select
, press
(Decorative stitch key) twice.
Stitch Settings 139
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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————
Pattern
Stitch Type
01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10
11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
Character
Large,
Small
stitches
N
No
No
No
Yes
31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40
41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50
51 52 53 54 55
(Gothic font)
Memo
z To select
(Gothic font), press
(Character stitch key) once.
Pattern
Stitch Type
01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10
11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40
41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50
51 52 53 54 55
Character
stitches
(Script font)
N
No Large No
No
Yes
Memo
z To select
(Script font), press
(Character stitch key) twice.
140
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Pattern
Stitch Type
01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10
11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
Character
stitches
(Outline
style)
Large,
Small
N
No
No
No
Yes
31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40
41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50
51 52 53 54 55
Memo
4
z To select
(Outline style), press
(Character stitch key) three times.
Stitch Settings 141
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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————
Care and Maintenance
Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.
Remove the needle plate cover.
The needle plate cover is removed differently
d
Cleaning the machine surface
depending on the model.
If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a
cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and
then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning
it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry
cloth.
■ If there is a screw in the needle plate cover
Use the disc-shaped screwdriver to remove the
a
screw in the needle plate cover.
CAUTION
● Unplug the power cord before cleaning
the machine, otherwise injuries or an
electric shock may occur.
Cleaning the race
Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover, and
then slide it toward you.
b
Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the
bobbin case; therefore, it should be cleaned
periodically.
Turn off the sewing machine.
a
a
a
Needle plate cover
X The needle plate cover is removed.
■ If there is no screw in the needle plate cover
Unplug the power cord from the power supply
jack on the right side of the sewing machine.
Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover, and
then slide it toward you.
b
a
CAUTION
● Unplug the power cord before cleaning
the machine, otherwise injuries or an
electric shock may occur.
a
Remove the flat bed attachment.
c
a
Needle plate cover
X The needle plate cover is removed.
142
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Remove the bobbin case.
Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.
Install the needle plate cover.
The needle plate cover is installed differently
e
h
depending on the model.
■ If there is a screw in the needle plate cover
Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into
the needle plate, and then slide the cover back
a
on.
1
a
Bobbin case
Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to
remove any lint and dust from the race and its
surrounding area.
f
a
a
Needle plate cover
Use the disc-shaped screwdriver to tighten the
screw in the needle plate cover.
b
a
b
a
b
Cleaning brush
Race
4
• Do not apply oil to the bobbin case.
Insert the bobbin case so that the projection
on the bobbin case aligns with the spring.
g
■ If there is no screw in the needle plate cover
Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into
the needle plate, and then slide the cover back
a
a
on.
b
a
2
a
Needle plate cover
Install the flat bed attachment in its original
position.
1
i
CAUTION
● Never use a bobbin case that is scratched,
otherwise the upper thread may become
tangled, the needle may break or sewing
performance may suffer. For a new
bobbin case (part code: XC3153-151),
contact your nearest authorized service
center.
a
b
Projection
Spring
● Be sure that the bobbin case is correctly
installed, otherwise the needle may break.
1
a
Bobbin case
Care and Maintenance 143
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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————
Troubleshooting
If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service.
If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.
Symptom
Probable Cause
Remedy
Reference
The machine is not turned on.
Turn on the machine.
page 17
The “Start/Stop” button was not
pressed.
Press the “Start/Stop” button.
page 52
–
The sewing
machine does not
operate.
The presser foot lever is raised.
Lower the presser foot lever.
Do not use the “Start/Stop” button
The “Start/Stop” button was pressed, when the foot controller is
even though the foot controller is
connected.
connected. To use the “Start/
Stop” button, disconnect the foot
controller.
page 52
page 39
The needle is incorrectly installed.
The needle clamp screw is loose.
The needle is bent or blunt.
Correctly install the needle.
Use the screwdriver to firmly
tighten the screw.
Replace the needle.
Select a thread and needle that
are appropriate for the type of
fabric being sewn.
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
page 38
The presser foot that is used is not
Attach the presser foot that is
appropriate for the type of stitch that appropriate for the type of stitch
page 134
you wish to sew.
that you wish to sew.
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension.
page 57
–
The fabric is pulled too much.
The spool is incorrectly installed.
Lightly guide the fabric.
The needle breaks.
Correctly install the spool.
page 28
The area around the hole in the
needle plate is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the needle plate. Contact
your dealer or the nearest
–
–
–
authorized service center.
The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the presser foot. Contact
your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
Replace the bobbin case. Contact
your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The bobbin case is scratched, or has
a burr on it.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin
designed specifically for this
machine.
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
page 22
144
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Symptom
Probable Cause
Remedy
Reference
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly (for example, the spool is
not installed correctly, the spool cap
is too big for the spool being used, or
the thread has come out of the
needle bar thread guide).
Correct the upper threading.
page 28
There are knots or tangles in the
thread.
Remove any knots or tangles.
–
The selected needle is not
appropriate for the thread being
used.
Select a needle that is appropriate
for the type of thread being used.
page 38
page 57
page 142
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
The thread is tangled, for example, in
thread is tangled in the bobbin
the bobbin case.
case, clean the race.
The upper thread
breaks.
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
page 39
The needle is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the needle.
4
The area around the hole in the
needle plate is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the needle plate. Contact
your dealer or the nearest
–
–
–
authorized service center.
The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the presser foot. Contact
your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
Replace the bobbin case. Contact
your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The bobbin case is scratched, or has
a burr on it.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin
designed specifically for this
machine.
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
page 22
The bobbin thread is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the bobbin
thread.
page 26
–
The bobbin is scratched or does not
rotate smoothly, or has a burr on it.
Replace the bobbin.
The lower thread is
tangled or breaks.
Remove the tangled thread and
clean the race.
The thread is tangled.
page 142
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin
designed specifically for this
machine.
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
page 22
Troubleshooting 145
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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————
Symptom
Probable Cause
Remedy
Reference
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading.
page 28
The bobbin thread is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the bobbin
thread.
page 26
page 38
Select a thread and needle that
are appropriate for the type of
fabric being sewn.
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
The thread tension
is incorrect.
The presser foot holder is incorrectly Correctly install the presser foot
page 43
page 57
installed.
holder.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
The thread tension is incorrect.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin
designed specifically for this
machine.
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
page 22
The upper thread was not threaded
Correctly thread the upper thread
page 26,
page 28
correctly, or the bobbin is incorrectly and correctly install the bobbin
installed.
thread.
The spool is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the spool.
page 28
page 38
page 39
page 59
Select a thread and needle that
are appropriate for the type of
fabric being sewn.
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
The fabric is
wrinkled.
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
Shorten the stitch length or sew
with stabilizer material under the
fabric.
If thin fabrics are being sewn, the
stitch is too long.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
The thread tension is incorrect.
page 57
page 28
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading.
Select a thread and needle that
are appropriate for the type of
fabric being sewn.
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
page 38
Stitches are
skipped.
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
page 39
page 39
The needle is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the needle.
Dust has accumulated under the
needle plate or in the bobbin case.
Remove the needle plate cover
and clean the race.
page 142
146
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Symptom
Probable Cause
Remedy
Clean the race.
Reference
Dust has accumulated in the feed
dogs or in the bobbin case.
page 142
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading.
page 28
–
A high-pitched
noise is made while
sewing.
Replace the bobbin case. Contact
your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The bobbin case is scratched, or has
a burr on it.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin
designed specifically for this
machine.
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
page 22
The needle has not been raised to the Press the “Needle Position”
page 31
page 39
The needlethreader
cannot be used.
correct position.
button.
The needle is incorrectly installed.
The presser foot that is used is not
Correctly install the needle.
Attach the presser foot that is
appropriate for the type of stitch that appropriate for the type of stitch
page 134
page 57
you wish to sew.
that you wish to sew.
4
The stitch is not
sewn correctly.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
The thread tension is incorrect.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the bobbin
case, clean the race.
The thread is tangled, for example, in
the bobbin case.
page 142
Slide the drop feed lever to the
right. (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
The feed dogs are lowered.
page 104
page 59
The stitch is too short.
Lengthen the stitch length.
The presser foot that is used is not
Attach the presser foot that is
appropriate for the type of stitch that appropriate for the type of stitch
page 134
The fabric does not
feed.
you wish to sew.
that you wish to sew.
Turn the presser foot pressure dial
to the left to increase the pressure
of the presser foot.
The pressure of the presser foot is
weak.
page 43
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the bobbin
case, clean the race.
The thread is tangled, for example, in
the bobbin case.
page 142
The sewing lamp
does not come on.
Contact your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The sewing lamp is damaged.
–
Nothing appears in The brightness of the LCD is either
Adjust the brightness of the LCD.
page 149
the LCD.
too light or too dark.
Troubleshooting 147
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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————
Error messages
If
(“Start/Stop” button) is pressed before the sewing machine is correctly set up or if an operation is
performed incorrectly, an error message appears in the LCD. Follow the instructions that appear. The message
will disappear if
(OK key) or
(Cancel/clear key) is pressed while the message is displayed.
Error Message
Probable Cause
The selected setting cannot be changed with the selected pattern.
The “Start/Stop” button was pressed without connecting the foot
controller while the setting for adjusting the stitch width using the
sewing speed controller is set to [ON].
The stitch mode was changed.
This message appears when the current pattern is to be deleted.
The “Start/Stop” button was pressed while the foot controller was
connected.
A stitch other than the buttonhole, bar tack or darning stitch was
selected and the “Start/Stop” button was pressed while the buttonhole
lever is lowered.
The buttonhole, bar tack or darning stitch was selected and the “Start/
Stop” button was pressed while the buttonhole lever is raised.
The “Start/Stop” button, “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button or
“Thread Cutter” button was pressed while the presser foot was raised.
You tried to combine more than 70 decorative stitches, stain stitches,
cross stitches or combined utility stitches.
The twin needle setting is selected while a pattern that cannot be sewn
with the twin needle is selected.
The “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button, “Needle Position” button
or “Thread Cutter” button was pressed while the bobbin winder shaft is
moved to the right.
A pattern is being saved. Otherwise, the stitch settings are being saved.
The “Start/Stop” button or “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button was
pressed after a stitch has been deleted.
The motor locked up because the thread is tangled.
The bobbin winder is winding the bobbin.
148
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Nothing appears in the LCD
Cancelling the operation beep
If nothing appears in the LCD when the sewing
machine is turned on, the brightness of the LCD is
either too light or too dark. If this is the case, perform
the following operation.
When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to
beep each time an operation panel key is pressed.
This setting can be changed so that the machine does
not beep.
Turn off the sewing machine.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
a
X The LCD comes on.
While pressing
(Cancel/clear key) in the
b
c
operation panel, turn on the sewing machine.
Press
(Settings key) in the operation
b
panel.
Press
or
(Stitch width keys).
Adjust the brightness of the LCD so that the
screens can be seen.
4
X The settings screen appears.
Press
or
(Stitch length keys) until
is
c
displayed.
Turn off the sewing machine, then turn it on
again.
d
Operation beep
Each time a key is pressed or an incorrect operation is
performed, a beep is sounded.
X The screen for changing the beep setting
appears.
■ For a correct operation
One beep is sounded.
■ If an incorrect operation is performed
Two or four beeps are sounded.
■ If the machine locks up, for example, because
the thread is tangled
The sewing machine continues to beep for four
seconds. The machine automatically stops.
Be sure to check for the cause of the error, and
correct it before continuing to sew.
Troubleshooting 149
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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————
Press
.
or
(Stitch width keys) to select
, press or (Stitch width
d
To return to
keys).
X The machine is now set so that it will not
beep.
Press
(Cancel/clear key) or
(OK key).
e
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
150
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Index
crazy quilt stitching .....................................................102
cross-stitch ..................................................................119
Numerics
1/4 inch quilting foot ......................................................9
cross-stitches ............................................... 71, 119, 138
1/4 inch quilting foot with guide .....................................9
2-point zigzag stitch ......................................................77
3-point zigzag stitch ......................................................77
curves ...........................................................................65
cylindrical pieces ..........................................................46
D
A
darning .......................................................................109
decorative satin stitches .............................. 71, 119, 138
decorative stitch key .....................................................13
decorative stitches ...................................... 71, 119, 138
decorative stitching .....................................................112
designing patterns .......................................................129
direct selection .............................................................70
disk-shaped screwdriver ..................................................9
accessories ......................................................................8
accessory bag .................................................................9
adjustable zipper/piping foot .................................... 9, 96
air vent .........................................................................11
appliqué .....................................................................101
automatic reinforcement stitching .................................60
automatic reverse stitching ............................................60
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key ...................13
automatic thread cutting key .........................................13
automatic thread-cutting .......................................... 7, 62
E
elastic tape ....................................................................98
electrical outlet .............................................................17
error messages ............................................................148
even seam allowance ....................................................67
extra spool pin ......................................................... 9, 34
eyelet ..........................................................................111
eyelet punch ................................................... 9, 87, 111
B
4
bar tack .......................................................................107
baseline ........................................................................81
basic stitching ...............................................................81
basting ..........................................................................80
blind hem stitch ............................................................82
blind stitch foot ...............................................................9
bobbin ..................................................................... 9, 26
bobbin case ......................................................... 26, 142
bobbin cover ......................................................... 11, 27
bobbin thread ...............................................................26
pulling up ...............................................................36
bobbin winder ..............................................................10
bobbin winder shaft spring ............................................23
bobbin winding thread guide and pretension disk .. 10, 24
bobbin-winding ....................................................... 7, 22
brightness .....................................................................21
built-in stitches ...............................................................7
button fitting foot ............................................................9
button sewing ........................................................ 84, 89
buttonhole foot ........................................................ 9, 88
buttonhole lever ....................................11, 86, 108, 110
buttonhole stitching ......................................................84
F
fagoting .......................................................................113
features ...........................................................................7
feed dog position switch ...................................... 11, 105
feed dogs ............................................................. 11, 104
flat bed attachment .......................................................10
flipping .......................................................................125
foot controller .......................................................... 9, 52
foot controller jack ........................................................11
free-arm sewing ............................................................46
free-motion quilting ....................................................104
G
grid sheet set ...................................................................9
H
C
handle ..........................................................................11
handwheel ............................................................. 11, 51
hard case ........................................................................9
heirloom stitching .......................................................116
cancel/clear key ............................................................13
care ............................................................................142
changing machine settings ............................................19
changing sewing direction ............................................65
changing the settings .....................................................19
character stitch key .......................................................13
character stitches ........................................ 71, 119, 140
checking patterns ........................................................121
cleaning ......................................................................142
cleaning brush ....................................................... 9, 143
combining patterns .....................................................120
I
included accessories .......................................................8
Inserting a piping ..........................................................97
Troubleshooting / Index 151
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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————
J
P
joining ........................................................................116
joining stitch ...............................................................100
patchwork stitching .....................................................102
pattern length ..............................................................124
pattern size .................................................................122
patterns .......................................................................119
piecing ........................................................................102
piping inserting .............................................................97
pocket corners ............................................................107
positioning fabric ..........................................................51
power supply ................................................................16
power supply jack .................................................. 11, 17
preset utility stitch/saved pattern key .............................13
presser foot ............................................................ 11, 41
presser foot dial ..................................................... 11, 43
presser foot holder ................................................. 11, 43
presser foot lever ...........................................................11
presser foot pressure .....................................................43
programmed thread-cutting ...........................................62
K
knee lifter ............................................................ 7, 9, 64
knee lifter mounting slot ...............................................10
L
language .......................................................................21
LCD ........................................................13, 18, 21, 149
brightness ...................................................... 21, 149
leather/vinyl fabrics .......................................................67
lower threading ........................................................ 7, 26
M
machine settings ...........................................................19
main power switch ................................................ 11, 17
maintenance ...............................................................142
manual memory key .....................................................13
memory key ..................................................................13
mirror image ...............................................................125
monogramming foot .......................................................9
My Custom Stitch ................................................. 71, 129
Q
quick reference guide .....................................................9
quilting .......................................................................103
quilting foot ........................................................... 9, 104
quilting guide ......................................................... 9, 103
R
race ............................................................................142
realigning ....................................................................127
realigning patterns ......................................................127
reinforcement stitching ................................. 54, 60, 107
repeat sewing ..............................................................121
replacing the needle .............................................. 37, 39
reset key .......................................................................13
retrieving a pattern ......................................................126
reverse/reinforcement stitch button ...............................12
N
needle ...........................................................................37
needle bar thread guide ................................................11
needle clamp screw ......................................................40
needle mode selection key ............................................13
needle plate ........................................................... 11, 67
needle plate cover ........................................................11
needle position ...................................................... 58, 81
needle position button ..................................................12
needle set .......................................................................9
needle stop position ......................................................60
needle stop position key ...............................................13
needle threader lever ....................................................10
needle threading ...........................................................31
non stick foot ........................................................... 9, 67
number selection ..........................................................70
numeric keys ................................................................13
S
safety instructions ...........................................................1
satin stitches ............................................... 71, 119, 138
satin stitching ..............................................................105
saving patterns ............................................................126
saving stitch settings ......................................................63
scallop stitching ..........................................................114
screwdriver .............................................................. 9, 40
seam ripper .............................................................. 9, 87
selecting stitching .........................................................72
settings key ............................................................ 13, 19
sewing machine needles ...............................................37
sewing speed ................................................................52
sewing speed controller ....................................... 12, 105
shell tuck stitch ...........................................................115
side cutter ................................................................ 9, 78
size .............................................................................122
sleeves ........................................................................107
smocking ....................................................................114
spool cap .......................................................... 9, 23, 29
spool net .........................................................................9
spool pin ......................................................... 10, 23, 29
start/stop button ..................................................... 12, 52
O
OK key .........................................................................13
open toe foot ..................................................................9
openings .....................................................................107
operation beep ............................................................149
operation buttons ................................................... 10, 12
operation manual ............................................................9
operation panel ...................................................... 10, 13
optional accessories ........................................................9
overcasting foot ..............................................................8
overcasting stitches .......................................................76
152
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————————————————————————————————————————————————————
starting to sew ...............................................................52
stitch density ...............................................................123
stitch guide foot ....................................................... 9, 67
stitch length ..................................................................59
stitch length keys ..........................................................13
stitch mode ...................................................................70
stitch pattern plate ..........................................................9
stitch settings ..............................................................134
stitch width ...................................................................58
controlling ............................................................105
stitch width keys ...........................................................13
straight stitch ...............................................................134
stretch fabrics ......................................................... 66, 98
T
thick fabrics ..................................................................66
thin fabrics ....................................................................66
thread cutter .......................................................... 10, 56
thread cutter button ............................................... 12, 55
thread guide cover ........................................................10
thread guide disk ..........................................................11
thread guide plate .........................................................10
thread tension ...............................................................57
thread tension ajustment ...............................................57
thread tension dial ................................................. 10, 57
top cover ......................................................................10
trial sewing ...................................................................65
triple stretch stitch .......................................................107
troubleshooting ...........................................................144
twin needle ....................................................... 9, 33, 40
4
U
upper thread .................................................................28
upper thread tension .....................................................57
upper threading ....................................................... 7, 28
utility decorative stitches ............................. 71, 119, 139
utility stitch key .............................................................13
utility stitches ....................................................... 70, 134
W
walking foot .................................................... 9, 44, 103
wide table ................................................................ 9, 46
wing needle ................................................................116
Z
zigzag foot ......................................................................9
zipper foot ......................................................................9
zipper stitching ...................................................... 91, 96
Index 153
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