The Intrepid II
Woodburning Stove
Model 1990
Homeowner’s
Installation and
Operating Manual
For use in the
United States and Canada
SAFETY NOTICE: IF THIS APPLIANCE IS NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED, OPERATED AND MAIN-
TAINED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT.
TO REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE, FOLLOW THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. FAILURE TO
FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, BODILY INJURY OR EVEN
DEATH. CONTACT LOCAL BUILDING OFFICIALS ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND INSTALLATION
INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS IN YOUR AREA.
Do Not Discard This Manual: Retain for Future Use
2000966 2/07 Rev. 19
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Specifications
Intrepid II, Model 1990
Range of heat output.................8,260-26,740 Btu’s/Hr3
Maximum heat output..........................27,000 Btu’s/Hr1
Area heated.................. Up to 1200 sq. ft. (112 sq. m.)2
Fuel size/type ...................................16” (410 mm) logs
EPA emissions rating (g/h, catalytic) .......................2.13
Loading....................................................... Front or top
Chimney connector .................... 6” (152 mm) diameter
Chimney flue size.......................6” (152 mm) minimum
Flue exit position ....................... Reversible, top or rear
Primary air ......Manual set, thermostatically maintained
Secondary air .........................................Self-regulating
Ash handling system .....................Removable ash pan
Glass panels.........................High temperature ceramic
Weight ................................................. 223 lbs. (101kg)
Width (leg-to-leg).................................. 21¹⁄₂” (545 mm)
Depth (leg-to-leg) ................................. 13³⁄₄” (350 mm)
Height to top of flue collar:
1. This value can vary depending on how the stove
is operated, the type and moisture content of the fuel
used, as well as the design, construction and climatic
location of your home. Figures shown are based on
maximum fuel consumption obtained under laboratory
conditions and on average efficiencies.
2. These values are based on operation in building
code-conforming homes under typical winter climate
conditions in New England. If your home is of nonstan-
dard construction (e.g., unusually well insulated, not in-
sulated, built underground, etc.) or if you live in a more
severe or more temperate climate, these figures may
not apply. Since so many variables affect performance,
consult your Vermont Castings Authorized Dealer to
determine realistic expectations for your home.
3. Under specific conditions used during EPA emissions
testing.
with regular legs.......................25” (635 mm) top exit
............................................... 24” (610 mm) rear exit
with optional short legs.............21” (535 mm) top exit
............................................ 19³⁄₄” (500 mm) rear exit
20"
(510 mm)
DRAWINGS NOT TO SCALE
21���"
(545 mm)
21���"
1���"
(540 mm)
(31 mm)
18"
21���"
(540 mm)
(460 mm)
C
L
24"
(610 mm)
25���"
(640 mm)
20���"
(520 mm)
Top exit
flue collar
height
7���"
(180 mm)
21���"
(545 mm)
13���"
(350mm)
0966
Fig. 1 Intrepid II 1990 dimensions.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Installation
SAFETY NOTICE: IF YOUR STOVE IS NOT PROP-
ERLY INSTALLED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT. TO
REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE, FOLLOW THE INSTAL-
LATION INSTRUCTIONS. CONTACT LOCAL BUILD-
ING OR FIRE OFFICIALS ABOUT RESTRICTIONS
AND INSTALLATION INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS
IN YOUR AREA.
Outside Air
In some modern, super-insulated homes, there is not
enough air for combustion because of insufficient air
infiltration into the building. Such air enters a home
through unsealed cracks and openings. Kitchen or bath
exhaust fans can compete with the stove for available
air and compound the problem.
Before you begin an installation, review your plans to
see that:
When poor draft is caused by a low infiltration rate,
opening a ground floor window on the windward side
of the house and in the vicinity of the stove will usually
alleviate the problem.
• Your stove and chimney connector will be far
enough from combustible material to meet all
clearance requirements.
Another solution is to install a permanent outside air
supply to the stove and/or room. In some areas, in
fact, bringing air for combustion from outside the home
directly to the air inlet of the stove is required for new
construction.
• The floor protector is large enough and is con-
structed properly to meet all requirements.
• You have all necessary permits from local author-
ities.
Your local building official is the final authority for ap-
proving your installation as safe and determining that it
meets local and state codes.
An outside air supply is not affected by pressure varia-
tions within the house, and improved stove perfor-
mance often results. An Outside Air Adaptor Kit for the
Intrepid II is available from your local Vermont Castings
dealer.
The metal label permanently attached to the back of
every Vermont Castings stove indicates the stove has
been tested to current ULC standards, by Canadian
Standards Association (CSA). The test standards are
ANSI/UL-1482 and ANSI/UL-737 for the United States
and ULCS627 and CAN/CSA-B366.2 for Canada.
Clearance and installation information also is printed
on the label. When the stove is installed according to
the information both on the label and in this manual,
local authorities in most cases will accept the label as
evidence that the installation meets codes and can be
approved.
What Kind of Chimney to Use
Your Intrepid II must be connected to a code-approved
masonry chimney with a flue liner, to a relined masonry
chimney that meets local codes, or to a prefabricated
metal chimney that complies with the requirements
for Type HT chimneys in the Standard for Chimneys,
Factory-Built, Residential Type and Building Heating
Appliance, UL 103, or the High Temperature (650°C)
Standard ULC S-629 for Canada. Whatever kind you
use, the chimney and chimney connector must be in
good condition and kept clean. Figure 2 shows the two
chimney types.
However, codes vary in different areas. Before starting
the installation, review your plans with the local building
authority. You local dealer can provide any additional
information needed.
For any unresolved installation issues, refer to CSA
CAN-B365 Installation Code for Solid Fuel Burning Ap-
pliances and Equipment. These standards are the basis
for many national codes. They are nationally recog-
nized and are accepted by most local authorities. Your
local dealer or your local building official may have a
copy of these regulations.
A prefabricated
double-wall insu-
lated chimney
IMPORTANT: FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE IN-
STALLATION INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN A
DANGEROUS SITUATION, INCLUDING A CHIMNEY
OR HOUSE FIRE. FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS
EXACTLY, AND DO NOT ALLOW MAKESHIFT COM-
PROMISES TO ENDANGER PROPERTY AND PER-
SONAL SAFETY.
A tile-lined ma-
sonry chimney
ST241
Fig. 2 Standard chimney types.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Prefabricated Chimneys
If you use an existing masonry chimney, it must be
inspected to ensure safe condition before the stove is
installed. Your local professional chimney sweep, build-
ing inspector, or fire department official will be able to
inspect the chimney or provide a referral to someone
who can.
A prefabricated metal chimney must be one tested and
listed for use with solid-fuel burning appliances to the
High Temperature (650°C) Standard ULC S-629 for
Canada.
DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE
SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
The chimney must extend at least 3’ (914mm) above
the highest point where it passes through a roof, and at
least 2’ (610mm) higher than any portion of a building
within 10’ (3m). (Fig. 3)
Chimney Size
An Intrepid II is approved for venting into a masonry
chimney with a maximum flue size of 8” x 8” (200 x
200mm), and into a round flue size of 6” (150mm).
For proper draft and good performance, any chimney
used with an Intrepid II should extend at least 16’ (5m)
above the flue collar of the stove.
It may not be vented into larger chimneys without a liner
to reduce the effective flue size to 6”(150mm) diam-
eter. Larger chimneys must have their flues relined for
proper stove performance.
0 To 10'
2' Min.
3'
0 To 10'
2' Min.
Min.
Accessories to make the connection between stainless
steel chimney liners and your Intrepid II are available
through your local dealer.
3'
Min.
Chimney Connector Guidelines
Chimney connector is the double-wall or single-wall
pipe that connects the stove to the chimney. The chim-
ney is a masonry or prefabricated structure that enclos-
es the flue. Chimney connectors are used only to make
the connection from the stove to the chimney.
AC617
Reference Point
Fig. 3 The 2’-3’-10’ Chimney Rule.
Masonry Chimneys
Double-wall chimney connectors must be tested and
listed for use with solid-fuel burning appliances. Sin-
gle-wall chimney connectors should be made of 24
gauge or heavier steel, and should be 6” (150 mm) in
diameter. Do not use galvanized connector; it cannot
withstand the high temperatures that can be reached by
smoke and gases, and may release toxic fumes under
high heat.
An inspection of the chimney must confirm that it has
a lining. Do not use an unlined chimney. The chimney
should have no cracks, loose mortar, other signs of
deterioration, or blockage. Repair any defects before
using the chimney with your stove.
Seal any unused openings in an existing masonry chim-
ney with masonry to the thickness of the chimney wall,
and repair the chimney liner. Openings sealed with pie
plates or wallpaper are a hazard; seal them with mortar
or refractory cement. In the event of a chimney fire,
flames and smoke may be forced out of these unused
thimbles.
If possible, do not pass the chimney connector through
a combustible wall or ceiling. If passage through a com-
bustible wall is unavoidable, refer to the section follow-
ing on Wall Pass-Throughs. Do not pass the chimney
connector through an attic, a closet, or any similar con-
cealed space. The whole connector should be exposed
and accessible for inspection and cleaning.
The chimney should be thoroughly cleaned before use.
A newly-built masonry chimney must conform to the
standards of your local building code or, in the absence
of a local code, to a recognized national code. Masonry
chimneys must be lined, either with code-approved ma-
sonry or pre-cast refractory tiles, stainless steel pipe, or
a code-approved, “poured-in-place” liner. The chimney’s
clean-out door must seal tightly.
In horizontal runs of single-wall chimney connector
without protective shields, maintain a clearance of at
least 26” (660mm) from the ceiling. For information on
reduced clearances using shields on single-wall chim-
ney connector or using double-wall connectors, see the
clearance chart on Page 10.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Keep the horizontal run of chimney connector as short
and direct as possible, with no more than two 90° turns.
Slope horizontal runs of connector upward 1/4” per foot
(20mm per m) going from the stove toward the chim-
ney. The recommended maximum length of a horizontal
run is 3’ (914mm). The recommended total length of
chimney connector is 8’ (2.4m).
• Be sure the installed stove and chimney connector
are correct distances from nearby combustible material.
NOTE: Special slip pipes and thimble sleeves that form
telescoping joints between sections of chimney con-
nector are available to simplify installations. They often
eliminate the need to cut individual connector sections.
Consult your local dealer about these special pieces.
In cathedral ceiling installations, extend the prefabri-
cated chimney down to within 8’ (2.4m) of the stove.
Securing the Single-wall Connector to a
Prefabricated Chimney
SAFETY NOTE: ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES AND PRO-
TECTIVE EYEWEAR WHEN DRILLING, CUTTING OR
JOINING SECTIONS OF CHIMNEY CONNECTOR.
For prefabricated chimneys, follow the installation
instructions of the chimney maker exactly as you install
the chimney. The maker of the chimney will supply the
accessories to support the chimney, either from the roof
of the house, at the ceiling of the room where the stove
is installed, or from an exterior wall.
Double-wall Chimney Connector
The listing for the Intrepid II for the U.S. and Canada
includes use of double-wall chimney connectors that
have been tested and listed for use with solid-fuel burn-
ing appliances by a recognized testing laboratory.
Special adapters are available from your local dealer to
make the connection between the prefabricated chim-
ney and the chimney connector. The top of such adapt-
ers attaches directly to the chimney or to the chimney’s
ceiling support package, while the bottom of the adap-
tor is screwed to the chimney connector.
Information on assembling and installing double-wall
connector is provided by the manufacturer of the
double-wall pipe. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions
exactly as you assemble the connector and attach it to
the stove and chimney. Using connectors and chim-
neys from the same manufacturer makes the assembly
and installation straightforward.
These adapters are designed so the top end will fit
outside the inner wall of the chimney, and the bottom
end will fit inside the first section of chimney connector.
When assembled in this way, any soot or creosote fall-
ing from the inner walls of the chimney will stay inside
the chimney connector.
NOTE: For installations using double-wall con-
nectors, minimum clearances must conform to the
listed clearances in the clearance chart on Page 14.
Securing the Single-wall Connector to a
Masonry Chimney
Single-wall Chimney Connector
• Beginning at the flue collar of the stove, assemble the
chimney connector. Insert the first crimped end into the
stove’s flue collar, and keep each crimped end pointing
toward the stove. Using the holes in the flue collar as
guides, drill 1/8” (3mm) holes in the bottom of the first
section of chimney connector and secure it to the flue
collar with three #10 x 1/2”
For masonry chimneys, both freestanding and fireplace
chimneys may be used for installation of your Intrepid II.
Thimble Sleeve
Flue
Chimney
Connector
sheet metal screws.
• Secure each joint be-
tween sections of chimney
connector, including tele-
scoping joints, with at least
three sheet metal screws.
The pre-drilled holes in
the top of each section of
chimney connector serve as
guides when you drill 1/8”
(3mm) holes in the bottom
of the next section.
Keep
sleeve
end
flush
with flue
tile
ST243
Fig. 5 The thimble, made of either ceramic or metal, must be
cemented securely in place.
Freestanding Chimney Installations
• Secure the chimney
Fig. 4 The crimped end of
the connector points toward
stove.
If the chimney connector must pass through a combus-
tible wall to reach the chimney, follow the recommenda-
tions in the Wall Pass-through section that follows.
connector to the chimney.
Instructions for various
installations follow.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
The opening through the chimney wall to the flue (the
“breach”) must be lined with either a ceramic or metal
cylinder, called the “thimble”, which is cemented firmly
in place. The fit must be snug and the joint between the
thimble and the chimney wall must be cemented. (Fig.
6)
Fireplace Chimney Installations -
Above a Fireplace
The Intrepid II may be connected to a chimney above a
fireplace opening also. In such installations, the stove is
positioned on the hearth in front of the fireplace and the
chimney connector rises from the stove top and then
angles ninety degrees back into the chimney. (Fig. 7)
A special piece called the “thimble sleeve,” slightly
smaller in diameter than standard connector and most
thimbles, will facilitate the removal of the chimney con-
nector system for inspection and cleaning. Thimble
sleeves should be available from your local dealer. (Fig.
5)
The chimney liner should extend to the point at which
the chimney connector enters the chimney.
Chimney
Chimney Connector
Shields
Flue
*
Elbow
Flue
Liner
* Check
These Clear-
ances
Slip Pipe
*
Thimble
Standard
Chimney
Connector
Mantel
Flue Collar
Seal the
Damper
I
I
D
I
P
E
R
T
N
I
ST244
Fig. 7 Chimney connector enters chimney above the firep.
lace.
ST492a
Fig. 6 Chimney connection in a freestanding installation.
If the chimney connector from your installation enters
the chimney above a fireplace, follow all the guidelines
mentioned above for freestanding installations. In addi-
tion, give special consideration to the following points:
To install a thimble sleeve, slide it into the breach until
it is flush with the inner flue wall. Do not extend it into
the actual flue passage, as this could interfere with the
draft.
• Check the clearance between the stove and the
chimney connector, and any combustible trim or the
mantel. Use the necessary combination of mantel, trim,
and connector heat shields to achieve the required
clearances.
The thimble sleeve should protrude 1-2” (25-50mm) into
the room. Use furnace cement and thin gasketing to
seal the sleeve in place in the thimble. Secure the chim-
ney connector to the outer end of the sleeve with sheet
metal screws.
• Check the clearance between the chimney con-
nector and the ceiling. If no heat shields are used, the
clearance should be at least 26” (660mm). To find out
how much this clearance may be reduced with heat
shields, see the clearance chart on Page 14.
Without a thimble, a suitable length of chimney con-
nector can be extended through the breach to the inner
face of the flue liner, and cemented securely in place.
Additional pieces of connector are then attached with
sheet metal screws.
• The fireplace damper must be sealed to prevent
room air from escaping up the flue. However, it must be
possible to re-open the damper to inspect or clean the
chimney.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
In the United States, the National Fire Protection As-
sociation (NFPA) has established guidelines for passing
chimney connectors through combustible walls. Many
building code inspectors follow these guidelines when
approving installations.
Fireplace Chimney Installations -
Through a Fireplace
If your fireplace height is at least 25” (635mm), you
may install an Intrepid II with standard legs through
the fireplace opening using a “positive connection” kit
available from your local dealer. These positive connec-
tion kits ensure a tight fit between the stove flue collar
and the chimney flue. (Fig. 8) Fireplace installations,
whether connected to the flue above or through the
fireplace opening, have special clearance requirements
to adjacent trim and the mantel. You’ll find the required
clearances for the Intrepid II fireplace installations on
Page 14.
Figure 9 shows one NFPA-recommended method.
All combustible material in the wall is cut away from
the single-wall connector to provide the required 12”
(305mm) clearance. Any material used to close up the
opening must be noncombustible.
Three other methods are also recommended by NFPA:
• Using a section of double-wall chimney with a 9”
(230mm) clearance to combustibles.
• Placing a section of chimney connector inside a ven-
tilated thimble, which in turn is separated from combus-
tibles by 6” (150mm) of fiberglass insulating material.
• Placing a section of chimney connector inside a
section of 9” (230mm) diameter, solid-insulated, factory-
built chimney, with 2” (50mm) of air space between the
chimney section and combustibles.
Floor protection requirements also apply to fireplace
installations. Floor protection information is on Page 9.
Wall Stud
Flexible Connector
Chimney
Connector
Mantel Shield
Fireplace Adaptor Kit
I
N
T
T
R
E
P
I
D
I
I
12” of
Noncombustible
Material
ST245
Floor
Protection
Fig. 8 Chimney connector enters chimney through the fire-
ST493a
place opening.
Fig. 9 An approved wall pass-through for the United States.
Wall Pass-Throughs
In Canada, The Canadian Standards Association has
established installation guidelines. The following il-
lustration shows one method, in which all combustible
material in the wall is cut away to provide the required
18” (460 mm) clearance for the connector. The resulting
space must remain empty. A flush-mounted sheet metal
cover may be used on one side only. If covers must be
used on both sides, each cover must be mounted on
noncombustible spacers at least 1” (25 mm) clear of the
wall.
Whenever possible, design your installation so the con-
nector does not pass through a combustible wall. If you
are considering a wall pass-through in your installation,
check with your building inspector before you begin.
Also, check with the chimney connector manufacturer
for any specific requirements.
Accessories are available for use as wall pass-
throughs. If using one of these, make sure it has been
tested and listed for use as a wall pass-through.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Most installations will require that the bottom heat
shield be attached. Only when the stove is placed
on a completely noncombustible surface, such as
unpainted concrete over earth, may it be used with-
out the bottom heat shield.
Your local dealer or your local building inspector can
provide details for other approved methods of passing
a chimney connector through a combustible wall in your
area. In Canada, this type of installation must conform
to CAN/CSA-B365, Installation Code for Solid Fuel
Burning Appliances and Equipment.
Even with the bottom heat shield installed, you must
also use a floor protector.
In the United States, the floor protector required under
the stove must extend at least 16” from the front of the
stove - not from the ashlip - (Labeled ‘E’ in Fig. 11), and
at least 6” from the sides and rear (‘D’, Fig. 11).
18” (460mm) clearance all
around the pipe
To meet the requirement in the United States, a floor
protector must be at least 34” wide and 40” deep.
In Canada, the floor protector required under the stove
must extend 18” (460mm) to the front (labeled ‘E’, Fig.
11), and 8” (200mm) from the sides and rear. (‘D’ ,Fig. 11)
I
N
T
T
R
E
P
I
D
I
I
To meet Canadian requirements, a floor protector must
be at least 38” (965 mm) wide and 44” (1118 mm) deep.
Flush Mounted
Sheet Metal
Cover
Floor protection also must extend under the chimney
connector and 2” (51 mm) to either side. (‘C’, Fig. 11)
For 6” (152 mm) connector used with the Intrepid II, the
protector must be a minimum of 10” (254 mm) wide,
centered under the connector.
ST494a
Fig. 10 An approved wall pass-through for Canada.
NOTE: Do not vent your Intrepid II into a factory-built
(zero-clearance) fireplace. These appliances and their
chimneys are specifically designed as a unit for use as
fireplaces. It may void the listing or be hazardous to
adapt them for any other use.
C
Top Exit
Rear Exit
D
D
B
DO NOT CONNECT AN INTREPID II TO ANY AIR
DISTRIBUTION DUCT OR SYSTEM.
D
D
D
D
Floor Protection
E
E
A tremendous amount of heat radiates from the bottom
plate of an Intrepid II, and the floor beneath requires
two kinds of special protection.
A
A
U.S.
Canada
Heat protection is provided by a Bottom Heat Shield,
part #0307.
A. 34”
B. 40”
38” (965 mm)
44” (1118 mm)
10” (254 mm)
8” (203 mm)
18” (457 mm)
C.
D.
10”
6”
Spark and ember protection is provided by a floor pro-
tector, which may be any noncombustible material.
E. 16”
ST500
For a new hearth, we recommend a noncombustible
floor protector such as 1/4” non-asbestos mineral board
or its equivalent, or 24 gauge sheet metal. If carpeting
is present, it must be removed before installation of the
floor protector. The floor protector may be covered with
a noncombustible decorative material if desired. When
using brick, tile, or stone, individual pieces must be
mortared so sparks cannot fall through.
Fig. 11 Required floor protector dimensions.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Floor Protection for Fireplace Installations
Keep the Stove and Connector a
Safe Distance from
Do not assume your fireplace hearth is completely
noncombustible.
Surrounding Materials
Many fireplace hearths do not satisfy the “completely
noncombustible” requirement because the brick or
concrete in front of the fireplace opening is supported
by heavy wood framing as in Figure 12. Because heat
passes through brick or concrete readily, it can easily
pass through to the wood. As a result, such fireplace
hearths can be a fire hazard and are considered a com-
bustible floor.
Both a stove and its chimney connector radiate heat in
all directions when operating, and dangerous overheat-
ing of nearby combustible materials can occur if they
are too close to the heat. A safe installation requires
that adequate clearance be maintained between the
hot stove and its connector and nearby combustibles.
Clearance is the distance between either your stove
(measured from the back edge of the stove’s top plate)
or chimney connector, and nearby walls, floors, the
ceiling, and any other fixed combustible surface. Your
stove has special clearance requirements that have
been established after careful research and testing to
UL and ULC standards. These clearance requirements
must be strictly observed.
In addition, furnishings and other combustible materials
must be kept away from the stove as well. In general, a
distance of 48” (1220 mm) must be maintained between
the stove and moveable combustible items such as dry-
ing clothes, furniture, newspapers, firewood, etc. Keep-
ing those clearance areas empty assures that nearby
surfaces and objects will not overheat.
Wood framing requires
protection from radiant heat
ST247a
Fig. 12 Supporting timbers under fireplace hearth are consid-
ered to be combustible.
Reducing Clearances
Stove clearances may be reduced by using heat shields
attached to the stove. Chimney connector clearances
may be reduced by using heat shields on single-wall
connector, or by using double-wall connector. Clear-
ances may also be reduced by using wall shields. All
shielding used to reduce clearances must be listed by a
recognized testing laboratory and approved by the local
regulatory body.
Keep in mind that many raised hearths will extend
less than the required clearance from the front of the
heater when it is installed. In such cases, sufficient floor
protection as described above must be added in front
of the hearth to satisfy the minimum floor protector re-
quirement from the front of the stove: 18” (460mm) from
the front in Canada. Fireplace hearths must also offer
the required protection of 8” (203 mm) on either side.
Clearance requirements are established for many dif-
ferent installations. In general, the greatest clearance is
required when you are placing a stove and its connec-
tor with no heat shields near a wall with no heat shield.
Optional 3” (76 mm) short legs may be used only on
such hearths that meet the width and depth require-
ments outlined previously under “floor protection.”
Hearth rugs do not satisfy the requirements for floor
protection.
For example, when the Intrepid II is installed parallel
to the rear wall and no shielding is used, it must be at
least 30” (760 mm) from the wall behind it and at least
24” (610 mm) from walls on either side.
Fireplace installations also have special clearance
requirements to the side walls, side decorative trim, and
fireplace mantle. Refer to the information on fireplace
and mantel trim shields in this section.
If the Intrepid II is installed in a corner and no shields
are used, the corners of the stove must be at least 20”
(510 mm) from nearby walls.
The least clearance is required when both the stove
and its connector, as well as the wall, have heat
shields.
When shields are attached to the stove or chimney
connector, they are mounted 1” - 2” (25-51 mm) away
from the stove or connector surface on non-combustible
spacers. Air flowing between the stove (and/or chimney
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
connector) and nearby shields carries away heat. Do
not block the air flow by filling this empty space with any
insulating material.
Air Flow
The shiny shield surface facing the heat source must be
left unpainted, enabling it to reflect heat back towards
the stove or connector and away from the wall.
Stud Wall
Framing
Shields are never used on double-wall connectors.
Wall Shield
Clearances may be reduced only by means approved
by the regulatory authority, and in accordance with the
clearances listed in this manual.
Noncombustible
spacers and
fasteners
Shield
NOTE: ALCOVE INSTALLATION OF THE INTREPID
II IS NOT PERMITTED IN CANADA.
Metal Spacer
Stove Heat Shields
Drywall
The Intrepid II Rear Heat Shield is one way to reduce
the clearance to the rear wall. The rear heat shield may
be installed on either rear- or top-exiting stoves. How-
ever, since the chimney connector also radiates heat
toward the wall in top-exiting installations, either single-
wall connector with connector heat shields, or listed and
approved double-wall chimney connector should be
used whenever the rear heat shield is used on top-exit-
ing stoves.
Air Flow
ST248
Fig. 13 Approved wall shield construction.
Chimney Connector Clearance Reductions
Chimney connector clearances may be reduced by
using heat shields on single-wall connector or by using
double-wall connector. One of these methods should be
used whenever the rear heat shield is used in top-exit
installations, or in any other situation when it is neces-
sary to protect nearby combustibles from the heat of the
chimney connector. The ceiling above horizontal runs
of chimney connector must be protected as well if the
clearance is inadequate. Refer to the Clearance Charts.
Clearance reductions with the rear heat shield apply
only to the wall to the rear in parallel installations. Nei-
ther the side clearance requirement nor the clearance
requirement in corner installations may be reduced.
Wall Shields
Clearances may be reduced by using a wall shield
constructed of 24 gauge or heavier sheet metal, or of
another non-combustible material such as 1/2” (13 mm)
insulation board or common brick “laid on flat,” with the
3¹⁄₂" (90 mm) side down. Figure 13 shows such a wall
shield.
In top-exiting installations in which the single-wall
connector extends to the ceiling and connects to a
prefabricated insulated metal chimney, the connector
shield must extend to within an inch of the ceiling. A
ceiling heat shield must be installed that is 22” (560mm)
in diameter and, as explained above, that extends 1”
(25mm) below the ceiling. The ceiling shield must be
constructed of 24 gauge or heavier sheet metal, must
be centered on the chimney, and must meet any wall
protector that is also a part of the installation.
Shields must be spaced out from the combustible
surface 1" (25mm) on noncombustible spacers. The
spacers should not be directly behind the stove or chim-
ney connector.
Air must be able to flow between the wall and the
shield. At least 50% of the bottom 1" (25 mm) of the
shield should be open and the shield must be open at
the top. (Fig. 13)
For double-wall connector the tested and listed
clearances given in this manual must be used.
The wall shield for a stove must extend 10” (254 mm)
above the top of the stove, or a height of 35” (890 mm).
The wall shield for the chimney connector must be 36”
(914 mm) wide, centered behind the connector; for
installations that use an approved prefabricated chim-
ney to pass through the ceiling, the chimney connector
shield used with single-wall connector must stop 1”
(25mm) below the ceiling.
Fireplace and Mantel Trim Shields
A fireplace installation requires special clearance be-
tween the side of the stove and the right and left walls,
between the side of the stove and the decorative side
trim on the fireplace face, and between the top of the
stove and the mantel.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Noncombustible shields installed 1” (25 mm) away from
the combustible surface on noncombustible spacers,
called ventilated shields, may be used to reduce clear-
ances. (Fig. 14)
A
B
1" (25mm)
C
C
ST253
Fireplace Mantel and Trim Clearances
Measured from the top and sides of the stove
1/4" (6mm)
ST501
Fig. 14 A custom-formed mantel shield.
Unprotected
Protected
A. Mantel
B. Top Trim
C. Side Trim
30” (762 mm)
24” (610 mm)
15” (381 mm)
14” (356 mm)
14” (356 mm)
10” (254 mm)
To protect a mantel from the heat of an Intrepid II in a
fireplace installation, the ventilated mantel shield must
be at least 48” (1220 mm) long, and it must be centered
over the stove. Ventilated shields for side trim must
extend the full length of the trim.
Fig. 15 Maintain clearances to combustible components of
the mantelpiece.
An unprotected mantel (‘A’, Fig. 15) cannot be more
than 9” (230 mm) deep and must have a minimum
clearance of 30” (760 mm), measured from the stove’s
top plate. With a ventilated shield, this clearance may
be reduced safely to 14” (360 mm).
Alcove Installations
Because of their restricted air flow and heat retention
characteristics, specific construction requirements and
special clearances apply to installations into alcoves.
No stove or chimney connector heat shields are used
in alcove installations.
Unprotected top trim (B) protruding 2” (50mm) or less
from the face of the fireplace must be a minimum of 24”
(610 mm) from the stove’s top surface. With a venti-
lated trim shield, this clearance may be reduced safely
to 14” (360 mm).
ALCOVE INSTALLATION OF THE INTREPID II IS
NOT PERMITTED IN CANADA.
Unprotected side trim (C) that protrudes 2” (50mm) or
less from the face of a fireplace must have a minimum
clearance of 15” (380mm), measured from the stove’s
top side edge. With a ventilated trim shield, the clear-
ance may be reduced safely to 10” (254 mm). If the trim
extends more than 2” (51 mm), wall clearance require-
ments apply.
Construction Requirements
The following illustrations show noncombustible ceiling
framing and maximum and minimum permitted dimen-
sions for alcove construction.
The charts and sample installations that follow list the
clearances required for the various installation configu-
rations of the Intrepid II.
7/16” Durock®
(or equivalent)
spaced 1” off
wood studs on
noncombustible
spacers
36"
Max.
Use recommended
floor protection
48" Min.
ST502
Fig. 16 Alcove floor plan. Sheetrock on front face butts to
Durock® (or equivalent) alcove lining.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Joist Shield (Sup-
plied by Chimney
Manufacturer)
Existing Combustible
Framing
24"
11"
Min.
Metal studs
support 7/16”
Durock® (or
equivalent)
ceiling
36"
Max.
Metal
Stud
14¹⁄₄"
Combustible
facing may
overlap metal
studs by only
1”
1” air gap top
and bottom,
on both
sides and
back wall
48" Min.
ST505
Fig. 19 Reflected ceiling plan.
7/16” Durock® (or
equivalent)
Ceiling sup-
port package
extends 2”
below Durock®
(or equivalent)
ceiling
ST503
Fig. 17 Alcove side section.
1” air gap,
62" Min.
to Alcove
Ceiling
top, bottom,
65"
on both
sides and
back wall
NOTE:
From 62” to
65” must be
covered by
a noncom-
bustible
material.
ST506
Fig. 20 Front view: 65” minimum clearance form hearth to
combustibles on front face. Combustible facing may overlap
metal studs by only 1”. It should not extend below the height of
the noncombustible ceiling.
ST504
Fig. 18 Cutaway perspective of alcove installation.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Intrepid II Clearance Chart
See Pages 15 and 16 for illustrations of these clearances.
Unprotected Surfaces
Protected Surfaces
Stove Clearance
Stove Installed
Parallel to Wall
Stove in
Corner
Stove Installed
Paralle to Wall
Stove in
Corner
Side
Rear
(B) 30”
Corners
(C) 20”
Side
Rear
(E) 16”
Corners
(F) 10”
No stove heat shields
(A) 24”
(D) 12”
(610 mm)
(762 mm)
(508 mm)
(305 mm)
(406 mm)
(254 mm)
Top exit, rear stove h.s.,
single-wall chimney
connector with connector
heat shields1,2
(G) 24”
(610 mm)
(H) 16”
(406 mm)
(I) 12”
(305 mm)
(J) 12”
(305 mm)
(K) 9”
(229 mm)
(L) 10”
(254 mm)
Rear exit, rear stove
heat shield3
(M) 24”
(610 mm)
(N) 14”
(356 mm)
n/a
(P) 12”
(305 mm)
(Q) 9”
(229 mm)
n/a
Top exit, rear stove h.s.,
double-wall
(G) 24”
(610 mm)
(H) 16”
406 mm)
(I) 12”
(305 mm)
*
chimney connector5
Chimney Connector Clearance
Single-wall chimney
connector, no
26” (660 mm)
12” (305 mm)
connector heat shields
Single-wall chimney
connector, with
10” (254 mm)
12” (305 mm)
5” (127 mm)4
*
connector heat shields
Double-wall
connector5
Front Clearance to Combustibles
All Installations
48” (1219 mm)
* Clearances with double-wall connectors and protected surfaces have not been tested for the Intrepid II.
1. Shielding for a top exit stove must include the stove rear heat shield insert to protect the area behind the flue collar.
2. Chimney connector heat shields, in an installation that goes through a combustible ceiling, must extend to 1” (25 mm) below
the ceiling heat shield, which is 22” (559 mm) in diameter. The ceiling heat shield should be 24 gauge or heavier sheet metal,
centered on the chimney connector, and mounted on noncombustible spacers.
3. Rear exit—horizontal from flue collar directly back through wall.
4. The ceiling heat shield required when chimney connector shields are used should meet the wall protector. This will require trim-
ming the ceiling shield along the line of intersection with the wall protector.
5. In top exit installations, this clearance requires the use of the rear heat shield with the shield insert installed.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Intrepid II Clearance Diagrams
See the chart on Page 14 for dimensions indicated by letter in the diagrams below.
Unprotected Surfaces
Protected Surfaces
Stove Installed
Parallel to Wall
Stove Installed
Parallel to Wall
Stove in
Corner
Stove in
Corner
Top Exit Installations, no heat shields
C
F
B
E
A
C
D
F
Top Exit Installations, rear heat shield, and chimney connector heat shields or double-wall connector
I
L
H
K
G
J
I
L
Rear Exit Installations, rear heat shields.
N
Q
N/A
N/A
M
P
ST507
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Wall Shield Requirements for Some Common Intrepid II Installations
C
C
C
C
A = 36” (914 mm)
B = 30” (762 mm)
C = 1” (25 mm)
D = 35” (889 mm)
E = 44” (1118 mm)
F = 40” (1016 mm)
B
A = 36” (914 mm)
B = 30” (762 mm)
C = 1” (25 mm)
D = 35” (889 mm)
E = 44” (1118 mm)
F = 40” (1016 mm)
A
B
A
E
F
E
F
D
D
C
D
D
C
IN
T
R
E
PI
D
II
IN
T
R
E
PI
D
II
C
C
ST508
ST508a
Fig. 21 Parallel installation, vertical chimney connector, two
wall shields. Reduced clearances for both rear and side walls.
Wall shields may meet at corner if desired. Shielding for con-
nector is centered behind connector.
Fig. 24 Parallel installation, vertical chimney connector, with
stove, connector and wall shields. Maximum reduction for rear
and side walls. Wall shields may meet at corner. A heat shield
24” (610mm) in diameter suspended 1” (25mm) below the ceil-
ing must surround the chimney.
A = 36” (914 mm)
B = 13” (330 mm)
C = 35” (889 mm)
D = 1” (25 mm)
E = 40” (1016 mm)
F = 30” (762 mm)
G = 44” (1118 mm)
B
A = 36” (914 mm)
A
F
B
B = 13” (330 mm)
C = 35” (889 mm)
D = 1” (25 mm)
E = 40” (1016 mm)
F = 30” (762 mm)
G = 44” (1118 mm)
A
F
G
E
C
D
C
G
IN
T
R
EPI
E
D
II
C
D
C
D
D
ST509
ST509a
Fig. 22 Parallel installations with rear wall pass-through, two
wall shields. Reduced clearances for both rear and side walls.
Wall shields may meet at corner if desired. Shielding for con-
nector is centered behind connector. Wall pass-through must
comply with codes.
Fig. 25 Parallel installation with rear wall pass-through, with
stove, connector and wall shields. Wall shields may meet at
corner. Connector heat shield extends 28” (710mm) above flue
collar, or below elbow, whichever is less. Wall pass-through
must comply with codes.
A
A
A
A = 1” (25 mm)
A
B
B
B = 34” (864 mm)
C = 48” (1219 mm)
D = 35” (889 mm)
A = 1” (25 mm)
B = 34” (864 mm)
C = 48” (1219 mm)
D = 35” (889 mm)
B
B
C
C
D
D
C
C
D
D
A
A
A
A
ST510
Fig. 23 Corner installation, vertical chimney connector, with
rear, stove, connector and wall shields. Wall shields MUST
meet at corner. Connector heat shield extends 28” (710mm)
above flue collar. A 24” (610mm) diameter ceiling heat shield
must surround the chimney and be suspended 1” (25mm) from
ceiling.
ST510a
Fig. 26 Corner installation, vertical chimney connector, two wall
shields. Reduced side clearances. Wall shields MUST meet at
corner.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Distance from the Center of the Flue Collar to the Wall in Top-Exit Installations
The information on this page is helpful in planning stove placement for top-exiting installations, particularly those in-
stallations with chimneys that pass through the ceiling. However, this is not a clearance chart. Final stove clearances
must adhere to the guidelines stated in the clearance charts on Page 14.
Intrepid II: WITHOUT Stove and Chimney Connector Heat Shields
Unprotected Surfaces
Protected Surfaces
Corner
Installations**
Corner
Installations**
Parallel Installations
Parallel Installations
Side (A)
Rear (B)
Corner (C)
Side (D)
Rear (E)
Corner (F)
34³⁄₄”
29”
26³⁄₄”
22³⁄₄”
11”
16³⁄₄”
(883 mm)
(737 mm)
(680 mm)
(578 mm)
(279 mm)
(426 mm)
A
B
D
F
C
E
*
*
ST511
* This distance, from the center of the flue collar to the front edge of the hearth, is the same for all installations on this page: 31” in the United
States and 33” (840mm) in Canada.
Intrepid II: WITH Stove and Chimney Connector Heat Shields
Unprotected Surfaces
Protected Surfaces
Corner
Installations**
Corner
Installations**
Parallel Installations
Parallel Installations
Side (A)
Rear (B)
Corner (C)
Side (D)
Rear (E)
Corner (F)
34³⁄₄”
15”
18³⁄₄”
22³⁄₄”
8”
16³⁄₄”
(883 mm)
(381 mm)
(476 mm)
(578 mm)
(203 mm)
(426 mm)
A
B
D
F
C
E
ST511a
** To locate center of flue collar for corner installation, add 7” (180mm) to the clearance distance form stove corner to wall. Mark off the resulting
distance from the corner along both walls. Next, measure the same distance form these two points out from the walls. These last two measure-
ments will meet at a point representing the center of the flue collar. Refer to the diagrams above.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Assembly
Clean the Griddle Before Use
At the factory the griddle is coated with vegetable oil to
prevent rusting while the stove is in transit and storage.
Remove the oil with a dry rag or paper towel before you
use the stove.
10³⁄₄"
9³⁄₄"
Set Up the Stove
Remove any loose parts from inside the stove. Place a
protective pad on the floor, arrange some sections of 4
x 4 lumber on the pad for support, and carefully tip the
stove onto them, on its back.
ST512
Remove and discard the four large slot-head screws
from the stove bottom (Fig. 27) and install the stove
legs, using the hex head bolts from the parts bag. Use
3/8” washers with three of the legs; the door/damper
handle holder installs in place of a washer on the right
front leg. Position the holder so the hole to accept the
handle nub faces out from the right side of the stove.
Tighten the bolts firmly.
Fig. 28 Attach bottom heat shield.
Storing the Handle
Use the removable handle to open or close the front
doors, or to change the position of the damper. After
using it, remove it so it won’t get hot, and store it in the
handle holder installed behind the right front leg. (Fig.
29)
Slotted
Screws
Door Handle Holder
Bottom Heat Shield
ST513
Fig. 27 Remove the slotted screws from the stove bottom.
Bracket
Install the Bottom Heat Shield
Wing Bolt
ST514
A bottom heat shield must be used unless the stove is
to be situated on a completely noncombustible hearth,
such as unpainted concrete over earth. To install the
bottom heat shield, loosen the leg bolts, and slip the
bottom heat shield C-clips onto the bolts. Attach the
bottom heat shield to the C-clips with the wing nuts, and
tighten the leg bolts. Align the shield as shown in Figure
28.
Fig. 29 Handle holder and heat shield positions.
Reversing the Flue Collar
You can reverse the flue collar by removing the two
screws that attach the collar to the back of the stove.
(Fig. 30) Be sure the gasket around the flue collar
opening is in position when you screw the collar back
on to the stove.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Flue Collar Screws
Operation
Your Intrepid II’s Controls and
What They Do
The stove has two controls to regulate performance: a
primary air control supplies oxygen for the fire, and a
damper directs air flow within the stove to activate and
deactivate the catalytic combustor.
Additional air for catalytic combustion is regulated auto-
matically, and does not require operator control.
ST515
Symbols cast into the stove are reminders of the correct
directions for opening and closing the controls. In these
directions, ‘left’ and ‘right’ assume that you are facing
the front of the stove.
Fig. 30 Reversing the flue collar.
Attach the Griddle Handle
A Single Air Control Regulates the
Amount of Heat the Fire Will Produce and
How Long it Will Burn
Install the handle on the griddle. Place the griddle
upside down at the edge of a flat surface and assemble
the handle as shown. (Fig. 31)
With the handle pointing 45° from its final position,
tighten the nut as far as possible with pliers. Move the
handle to its final position while still holding the nut with
the pliers. Take care not to overtighten, as tab may
snap.
The primary air control lever, located at the right rear
corner of the stove, controls the amount of incoming air
for starting, maintaining, and reviving a fire. More air
entering the stove makes the fire burn hotter and faster,
while less air prolongs the burn at a lower heat level.
For the greatest air supply and maximum heat output
(but the shortest burn time), move the lever to the left.
For a fire that will last longer with less heat, move the
lever to the right. You can set the lever anywhere in
between the left and right extremes. (Fig. 33)
The Intrepid II features an automatic thermostat to en-
sure an even heat output at any setting you select. The
thermostat senses the heating and cooling of the stove
surface and adjusts the air shutter accordingly.
ST516
High Heat
Fig. 31 Attaching the griddle handle.
Low Heat
Griddle
Handle
Air Control Lever
Damper Handle
Door Handle
Rear View
ST517
Fig. 33 The thermostat handle may be positioned anywhere
between the two extremes for different heat levels.
Ash Pan
Door Handle
Holder
(Behind Leg)
Andiron
ST518
Fig. 32 The Intrepid II controls.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
A Damper Directs Air Flow
Andirons
Within the Stove
Your stove has andirons to keep logs away from the
glass panels. The andirons are important to maintain
clear fireviewing and should be removed only while
reloading through the front doors.
The damper handle opens and closes the damper to
direct air flow within the stove, and is next to, and to the
right of, the primary air control lever on the right side of
the stove. (Fig. 34)
Wear heavy stove gloves when removing the andirons,
and place them on a noncombustible surface until you
replace them in the stove. Most stove owners will prefer
the convenience of top loading through the griddle, and
will leave the andirons in place permanently.
When the handle points to the floor, the damper is
open, letting smoke pass directly into the chimney. The
damper must be open when starting or reviving a fire,
and whenever the griddle or doors are opened.
When the handle points to the front, the damper is
closed. Smoke from the fire travels through the catalytic
combustion system where it can burn further for greater
efficiency, before passing up the chimney.
The damper has no intermediate positions. Figure 28
shows the handle’s open and closed positions.
When closing the damper, push firmly and snap it
into the locked position to ensure that the stove
remains in the catalytic mode.
Side View
ST520
Open
(Updraft Mode)
Fig. 35 Remove the andirons for front loading.
Two Ways to Add Fuel
The Intrepid II’s griddle lifts for convenient top-loading
of logs, and is the easiest way of regularly adding fuel.
However, the front doors open as well for adding an oc-
casional log to a fire. (Fig. 36)
You can open (or even remove) the front doors and
place the optional Intrepid II spark screen in the front
opening for open-fire viewing.
Closed
(Catalytic Mode)
ST519
Fig. 34 The damper is either open or closed. There are no
intermediate positions.
Glass Door Panels
INTREPID II
The glass panels in the doors have a heat-reflective
coating on the outside surface. Heat reflected back to
the inside of the glass helps keep the inner surface at
a higher temperature than the outside. In combination
with pre-heated primary combustion air ‘washing’ over
the inside of the glass, this helps provide clear fire-
viewing at most operating levels.
ST521
Fig. 36 Top loading is the best way to add fuel during regular
use. Front loading is useful for kindling a fire.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
For areas that do not have a supply of hardwood, com-
monly burned softwoods include tamarack, yellow pine,
white pine, Eastern red cedar, fir, and redwood. These
too should be properly dried.
WARNING: For safety and greatest efficiency, oper-
ate your stove only with all doors/griddles fully
closed. The test standard for your stove when it is
operated in this mode is UL 1482.
Store firewood under cover to keep it dry. Dry, well-sea-
soned wood is best for heating and fire-viewing. How-
ever, avoid wood dried more than two years. This wood
burns very quickly, reducing burn time.
Your stove may be used as a fireplace with the front
doors open or removed only when the spark screen
is placed correctly in the opening to protect against
the possibility of sparks and embers leaving your
stove. The test standard for your stove when it is
operated in this mode is UL 737.
Even for short-term storage, keep wood a safe distance
from the heater and keep it out of the areas around the
heater used for refueling and ash removal.
Use only the Intrepid II spark screen, part #0136,
with your Intrepid II.
A Surface Thermometer is a Valuable
Guide to Operation
Intrepid II spark screens are available from your
Vermont Castings’ Authorized Dealer.
An optional surface thermometer tells you when to
adjust the air control, when to refuel, and helps to tell
when your catalyst is operating properly.
To open the front doors, insert the handle into the door
latch stub and turn it to the left and up. To close them,
always close the left door first. Turn the handle in the
right door to the left and up (to the open position) and
close the door. Push on the door as you turn the handle
to the right and down. The doors will draw in slightly,
and the handle should offer some resistance as you
turn it to the closed position. (Fig. 37)
For example, when the thermometer registers at least
450°F (230°C) after start-up you know the stove is hot
enough to begin catalytic combustion and it may be
time to close the damper.
Place the thermometer in the center of the griddle, as in
Figure 38, and use the following temperature ranges as
a guide to operation:
Avoid striking the glass or slamming the doors to re-
duce the risk of breaking the glass.
When thermometer readings drop below 350°F (175°C)
it’s time to adjust the air control for a higher burn rate or
to reload the stove.
When you’re not using the door handle, store it in the
holder behind the right front leg of the stove.
• A temperature reading over 750°F (400°C) is a sign
to cut back on the air supply to slow the burn rate.
• Readings in the 300-400°F (150-200°C) range indi-
cate low to medium heat output.
Open
Position
• Readings of 500-650°F (260-340°C) indicate high
heat output. Operating your Intrepid II continuously
at griddle temperatures of 750°F (400°C) or higher
may damage inner parts or the enamel finish.
Closed
Position
ST522
Fig. 37 To open the front doors, turn handle clockwise.
ST523
Burn Only High-Quality Wood
Fig. 38 Take temperature readings with a thermometer lo-
cated in the middle of the griddle.
The Intrepid II is designed to burn natural wood only; do
not burn fuels other than that for which it was designed.
You’ll enjoy the best results when burning wood that
has been adequately air-dried. Avoid burning “green”
wood that has not been properly seasoned. The wood
should be 16” (410mm) in length.
The best hardwood fuels include oak, maple, beech,
ash, and hickory that has been split, stacked, and air-
dried outside under cover for at least one year.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Use the Air Control Settings
Intrepid II Control Settings
that Work Best for You
Burn Rate
Primary Air Control
Low
From far right to 1/3 the
distance to left
No single air control setting will fit every situation. Set-
tings will differ depending on the quality of the fuel, the
amount of heat desired, and how long you wish the fire
to burn.
Medium
High
From 1/3 to 2/3
the distance to left
From 2/3 the distance
to left to far left
The control setting also depends on your particular
installation’s “draft,” or the force that moves air from the
stove up through the chimney. Draft is affected by such
things as the length, type, and location of the chimney,
local geography, nearby obstructions, and other factors.
Before you start using the stove, please read the Draft
Management section starting on Page 25 to see how
the features of your installation will affect the stove’s
performance. You and the stove are parts of a system,
and other parts of the system have a strong effect on
operation; you may need to vary your firing technique to
get the performance you want.
Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in
the Intrepid II, and could even damage the combustor.
On the other hand, too little draft can cause backpuffing
into the room and/or the “plugging” of the chimney or
combustor.
How to Build a Wood Fire
and Keep it Going
How do you know if your draft is excessively high or
low? Symptoms of too much draft include an uncontrol-
lable burn or a glowing-red stove part. A sign of inad-
equate draft is smoke leaking into the room through the
stove or chimney connector joints, low heat, and dirty
glass.
An Intrepid II leaves the factory with the combustor
installed.
In the United States, it is against the law to operate this
wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating
instructions in this manual, or if the catalytic combustor
is deactivated or removed.
In some newer homes that are well-insulated and
weather-tight, poor draft may result from insufficient air
in the house. In such instances, an open window near
the stove on the windward side of the house will provide
the fresh air needed.
High-Efficiency Wood Burning
with Catalytic Combustion
Another option for getting more combustion air to the
stove is to duct air directly from outdoors to the stove.
In fact, in some areas provisions for outside combustion
air are required in all new construction.
The catalytic combustion system in your Intrepid II
produces the best conditions for secondary combustion.
When the stove damper is closed, smoke goes through
the catalytic element, burning at temperatures of
500-600°F (260-315°C), half the temperature normally
needed for unaided secondary combustion.
Your Intrepid II will accept a duct carrying outside air for
combustion.
When first using the stove, keep track of the air control
settings. You will quickly find that a specific setting will
give you a fixed amount of heat. It may take some time
to determine the amount of heat and the length of burn
you should expect from various settings. Please read
the Draft Management section beginning on Page 25
for more information on how installation features affect
draft.
The catalytic element is a ceramic “honeycomb” coated
with a noble metal, usually platinum. The element is in
the secondary combustion chamber, made of a spe-
cial high-temperature insulating refractory material.
The chamber provides the correct environment neces-
sary for secondary combustion of the fuel (smoke).
Closing the damper may also reduce draft. Closing the
damper too soon may put out the fire or deactivate the
combustor. Close the damper only when the fire is well
established. When starting a fire, wait until there is an
ember bed of at least 3-4” (76-102mm) before closing
the damper.
Most installations do not require a large amount of com-
bustion air, especially if adequate draft is available.
Do not for any reason attempt to increase the firing
of your heater by altering the air control adjustment
range outlined in these directions.
Never kindle a fire with colored paper or paper that
has colored ink or a glossy surface, and never burn
treated wood, garbage, solvents, or trash. All of these
may poison the catalyst and prevent it from operating
properly. Never burn cardboard or loose paper except
for kindling purposes. Never burn coal; doing so can
Use the following air control settings as a starting point
to help determine the best settings for your installation.
Each is described as a fraction of the total distance the
lever may be moved from right to left.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
produce soot or large flakes of char or fly ash that can
coat the combustor and cause smoke to spill into the
room. Coal smoke also can poison the catalyst so that it
won’t operate properly.
In general, the fire must be sufficiently well-established
to ensure catalytic activity is initiated. When first starting
a fire, maintain a medium- to high- firing rate for at least
twenty minutes. This ensures the stove, catalyst, and
fuel are all stabilized at the proper operating tempera-
tures. This may be long enough to warm the chimney
well enough to support a good draft; some installations
may need more time. Please read the Draft Manage-
ment information starting on Page 25 to see if your
installation has features that may require more time to
warm up.
ST263
Fig. 39 Start the fire with newspaper and dry kindling.
Even though it is possible for the fire to get quite hot
within a few minutes, the combustor may stop working
or the fire may go out if the fire is allowed to die down
immediately as a result of closing the damper. Once the
combustor starts working, heat generated by burning
the smoke will keep it working.
DO NOT USE CHEMICALS OR FLUIDS TO START
THE FIRE. DO NOT BURN GARBAGE OR FLAMMA-
BLE FLUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA, OR
ENGINE OIL. Also, never use gasoline-type lantern
fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or similar
liquids to start or “freshen up” a fire. Keep all such
liquids well away from the Intrepid II while it is in
use.
To determine whether the combustor is operating, ob-
serve the amount of smoke leaving the chimney when
the damper is activated and when it is not. This proce-
dure is described on Page 29.
3. Light the newspaper and close the door. Gradu-
ally build up the fire by adding a few 3-5” (76-127
mm) diameter splits. If this is one of the first few
“break-in” fires, let the fire burn brightly, and
then let it die out.
During the break-in fires, don’t let the stove get hotter
than 500°F (260°C) as measured on an optional stove-
top thermometer. Adjust the air control lever as neces-
sary to control the fire. Some odor from the stove’s hot
metal, the paint, and the cement is normal for the first
few fires.
Conditioning Your Stove
Cast iron is extremely strong, but it can be broken with
a sharp blow from a hammer or from the thermal shock
of rapid and extreme temperature change.
The cast plates expand and contract with changes in
temperature. When you first begin using your Intrepid II,
minimize thermal stress by allowing the plates to adjust
gradually during three or four initial break-in fires follow-
ing Steps 1-3 below.
NOTE: Some chimneys need to be “primed,” or
warmed up, before they will draw sufficiently to start
a fire. To correct this situation, roll up a couple pieces
of newspaper, place them on top of the kindling and
toward the back of the stove, light them, and close the
doors. This should heat the chimney enough to initiate
a draft.
Starting and Maintaining a Wood Fire
Burn solid wood fuel only in the Intrepid II, and burn it
directly on the grate. Do not elevate the fuel. Do not
burn coal or other fuels.
The damper must be open when starting a fire or
when refueling.
Once the draft is established, open the front door and
light the rest of the fuel from the bottom. Do not light the
main bed of fuel until the chimney begins drawing, and
repeat the procedure as often as necessary if the initial
attempt is unsuccessful.
1. Open the stove damper, and open the primary air
control fully.
2. Place several sheets of crumpled newspaper in the
stove. Do NOT use glossy advertisements or colored
paper, as they can poison the catalyst. Place on the
paper six or eight pieces of dry kindling split to a
finger-width size, and on the kindling lay two or three
larger sticks of split dry wood approximately 1-2”
(25-50mm) in diameter. (Fig. 39)
4. If your Intrepid II has been broken-in previously
using Steps 1-3, continue to build the fire gradually.
Add larger wood with a diameter of 3-4” (76-102
mm). (Fig. 40)
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
ST264a
ST264
Fig. 40 Add larger pieces of wood as the fire begins to burn
Fig. 41 Add full size logs when the ember bed is 3” (75mm)
well.
deep.
CAUTION: The Intrepid II will be hot while in opera-
tion. Keep children, clothing and furniture away.
Contact may cause skin burns.
Continue adding split logs of this size to the briskly-
burning fire until there is a glowing ember bed at
least 3” (75mm) deep. A good ember bed is neces-
sary for proper functioning of the catalytic system
and may take an hour or more to establish.
5. Close the damper when the griddle temperature
reaches 450° F (230°C).
DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. Overfiring may
cause a house fire, or can result in permanent damage
to the stove and to the catalytic combustor. If any part
of the Intrepid II glows, you are overfiring.
6. Adjust the air control for your desired heat output.
Ash Disposal
Refuel While the Embers are Still Hot
Remove ash before it reaches the top of the ash pan.
Check the level at least once a day, and before each
re-fueling. If the ash is close to the top edge of the pan,
empty it according to this procedure:
Reload the Intrepid II while it is still hot and there are
plenty of glowing embers to re-kindle the fire. Include
some smaller pieces of wood in the new load of fuel to
help the stove rebuild its operating temperature quickly.
1. Open the damper.
Wear stove gloves, and follow this procedure when you
reload your stove:
2. Open the front doors fully.
3. Using stove gloves, pull the ash pan out of the stove
by its handle.
1. Open the thermostat lever.
2. Open the damper.
4. Remove the ash pan and properly dispose of the
3. Check the ash level in the ash pan; empty, if neces-
sary, and replace the pan.
ashes. Be sure to keep the pan level during dispos-
al.
4. Open the griddle.
5. Return the ash pan to the stove.
5. Position the charcoal in the middle of the firebox
(Fig. 41)then load wood — smaller, split pieces first.
Increase the amount of fuel you load into the stove
as you become familiar with your stove and the
heating needs of your home.
Empty the ash pan regularly, typically every one to
three days. The frequency will vary depending on how
you operate your Intrepid II; if you burn more wood at
higher heat output settings, ash will accumulate rapidly.
Remove ash frequently and place it outdoors in a metal
container with a tight-fitting lid. Put the closed container
of ash on a noncombustible floor or on the ground,
well away from all combustible materials, pending final
disposal. If the ash is disposed of by burial in soil or
otherwise locally dispersed, keep it in the closed con-
tainer until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. You can
use wood ash as a garden fertilizer.
NOTE: If the remaining charcoal bed is relatively thick
and if your fuel is well seasoned, it is possible to add
fresh fuel (smaller pieces first), close the door and
damper, and reset the primary air thermostat for the
desired heat output.
Do not break the charcoal into very small pieces or
pound or compress the charcoal bed.
CAUTION: Never use your household or shop vacuum
cleaner to remove ash from the stove; always remove
and dispose of the ash properly.
It is important that air can circulate under the wood for
the fire to be quickly revived.
WARNING: Operate your Intrepid II only with the
doors either fully open or fully closed.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Draft Management
A stove is part of a system, which includes the chimney,
Flue sizing
the operator, the fuel, and the home. The other parts of
the system will affect how well the stove works. When
there is a good match between all the parts, the system
works well.
The inside size of a chimney for an ‘airtight’ stove
should match the size of the stove’s flue outlet. When
a chimney serves an airtight, more is not better; in fact,
it can be a disadvantage. Hot gases cool off through
expansion; if we vent a stove with a six-inch flue collar
(28 square inch area) into a 10 x 10” flue, the gases
expand to over three times their original size. This cools
the gases, which weakens draft strength. If an over-
sized flue is also outside the house, the heat it absorbs
gets transferred to the outdoor air and the flue usually
stays cool.
Wood stove operation depends on natural (unforced)
draft. Natural draft occurs when the smoke is hotter
(and therefore lighter) than the outdoor air at the top of
the chimney. The bigger the temperature difference, the
stronger the draft. As the smoke rises from the chimney
it provides suction or ‘draw’ that pulls air into the stove
for combustion. A slow, lazy fire with the stove’s air inlet
fully open indicates a weak draft. A brisk fire, supported
only by air entering the stove through the normal inlet,
indicates a good draft. The stove’s air inlet is passive;
it regulates how much air can enter the stove, but it
doesn’t move air into it.
It’s common for a masonry flue, especially one built for
a fireplace, to be oversized for an airtight stove. It can
take quite a while to warm up such a flue, and the re-
sults can be disappointing. The best solution to an over-
sized flue is an insulated steel chimney liner, the same
diameter as the stove or insert’s flue outlet; the liner
keeps the smoke at its original volume, and the result is
a stronger draft. An uninsulated liner is a second choice
- the liner keeps the smoke restricted to its original size,
but the smoke still must warm up the air around the
liner. This makes the warm-up process take longer.
Depending on the features of your installation - steel or
masonry chimney, inside or outside the house, matched
to the stove’s outlet or oversized - your system may
warm up quickly, or it may take a while to warm up and
operate well. With an ‘airtight’ stove, one which restricts
the amount of air getting into the firebox, the chimney
must keep the smoke warm all the way to the outdoors.
Some chimneys do this better than others. Here’s a list
of features and their effects.
Pipe & Chimney Layout
Every turn the smoke must take in its travel from the
stove to the chimney top will slow it down. The ideal
pipe and chimney layout is straight up from the stove,
to a completely straight chimney. If you’re starting
from scratch, use this layout if possible. If the stove-
pipe must elbow to enter a chimney, locate the thimble
about midway between the stove top and the ceiling.
This achieves several goals: it lets the smoke speed up
before it must turn, it leaves some pipe in the room for
heat transfer, and it gives you long-term flexibility for
installing a taller stove without relocating the thimble.
Masonry Chimney
Masonry is a traditional material for chimneys, but it
can perform poorly when it serves an ‘airtight’ stove.
Masonry is a very effective ‘heat sink’ - it absorbs a lot
of heat. It can cool the smoke enough to diminish draft.
The bigger the chimney, the longer it takes to warm up.
It’s often very difficult to warm up an outdoor masonry
chimney, especially an oversized one, and keep it warm
enough to maintain an adequate draft.
Steel Chimney
There should be no more than eight feet of single-wall
stove pipe between the stove and a chimney; longer
runs can cool the smoke enough to cause draft and
creosote problems. Use double-wall stove pipe for long
runs.
Most factory-made steel chimneys have a layer of in-
sulation around the inner flue. This insulation keeps the
smoke warm. The insulation is less dense than mason-
ry, so the inner steel liner warms up more quickly than a
masonry chimney. Steel doesn’t have the good looks of
masonry, but it performs much better.
Single Venting
Each ‘airtight’ stove requires its own flue. If an airtight
stove is vented to a flue that also serves an open fire-
place, or a leakier stove, it’s easier for the chimney draft
to pull air in through those channels than it is to pull air
through the airtight, and performance suffers. Imagine
a vacuum cleaner with a hole in the hose to see the ef-
fect here. In some cases the other appliance can even
cause a negative draft through the airtight, and result in
a dangerous draft reversal.
Indoor/Outdoor location
Because the chimney must keep the smoke warm, it’s
best to locate it inside the house. This uses the house
as insulation for the flue and allows a little heat release
into the home. An indoor chimney won’t lose its heat to
the outdoors, so it takes less heat from the stove to get
it warm and keep it warm.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Back-puffing
Creosote
Back-puffing results when the fire produces volatile
gases faster than the chimney draft pulls them out of
the firebox. The gases back up in the firebox till they’re
dense enough and hot enough to ignite. If your stove
back-puffs, you should open up the damper to let the
smoke rise to the flue more quickly, let more air into
the firebox, and avoid big loads of firewood. Run your
stove with enough primary air so that you always see
lively, dancing flames in the firebox; a lazy, smoky fire is
inefficient and can contribute to creosote buildup in the
chimney.
Creosote is a by-product of slow wood-burning. It’s an
organic tar that can condense in the flue if it’s dense
in the smoke, and slow-moving, and cools off to less
than 290°F. Condensed creosote is volatile, and can
generate chimney fires if it gets hot enough. All the
features that affect chimney draft also affect creosote
condensation - so use whatever combination of installa-
tion features and operational steps will encourage good
draft and minimize creosote production.
Because letting the smoke cool off and slow down is
one of the keys to creosote production, it makes sense
to line a chimney to match the stove’s outlet size, for
safety reasons as well as performance. Canadian law
requires a matching liner to serve any stove or insert
vented through a fireplace chimney; in the US, the
National Fire Protection Association recommends one if
the flue is more than three times bigger (in square area)
than the outlet on the stove or insert. Some localities
enforce the NFPA guidelines as part of their building
codes.
Draft Testing
An easy way to test your chimney draft is to close the
stove’s damper, wait a few minutes to let the airflow
stabilize, then see whether you can vary the strength of
the fire by swinging the air control open and closed. Re-
sults are not always instant; you may need to wait a few
minutes for a change in the air control setting to have
an effect on the fire. If there’s no change, then the draft
isn’t strong enough yet to let you close the damper, and
you’ll need to open it for a while longer and manage the
fire with the air inlet until the draft strengthens. If you
keep track of your burning habits and relate them to
their effects on the stove’s operation, you’ll be rewarded
with good performance and a safe system.
Fuel
Even the best stove installation will not perform well
with poor fuel. The best fuel is hardwood that has air-
dried 12-18 months. Softwood burns, but not as long as
hardwood. Fairly ‘green’ wood has a good amount of
moisture in it; it will burn, but some of the heat potential
is used to drive the remaining moisture off the wood.
This reduces the amount that reaches your home and
can contribute to a creosote problem. There are mois-
ture meters available for firewood; you can also judge
your wood by its appearance and weight. If you get it
green, lift a piece and get a sense of its weight; it can
lose a third or more of its weight as it dries. Also look at
the ends of a log; as it dries it shrinks and often cracks.
The more weathered and cracked a piece is, the drier
it is.
Negative Pressure
Good draft also depends on a supply of air to the stove;
a chimney can’t pull in more air than is available to it.
Sluggish draft results when a house is tight enough to
prevent the ready flow of air to the stove, or by competi-
tion between the stove and other equipment that sends
indoor air outside - especially power-driven equipment
like range hoods, clothes dryers, etc. If the chimney
draws well with all other equipment turned off (or
sealed, in the case of fireplaces and/or other stoves),
then you simply need to be careful with timing the use
of the other equipment. If you need to crack a nearby
window or door to enable the chimney to draw well,
that’s a sign that you should install an outside-air intake
to bring combustion air directly to the stove. Vermont
Castings dealers carry adapters to attach to the stove
to connect an air duct for outdoor combustion air.
Dry wood burns readily with a good chimney draft. But
with modern stoves, especially catalytic ones, the wood
can be too dry. While extra-dry wood has little creosote
in it, the remainder can ‘gas out’ from the wood quickly
and densely enough to overload the catalytic burner.
If you hear a rumbling or roaring noise, like a propane
torch, from the stove, that is a sign that the catalyst is
seriously overfiring. The catalyst is a platinum film on a
ceramic base; the metal can get to higher temperatures
than the ceramic can take, and overfiring the catalyst
can break it. Dry wood can also burn out faster than
you want. If your dry wood burns out too quickly or
overloads the catalyst you can mix in greener wood to
slow the fire down.
Conclusion
Wood-burning is an art rather than a science. Once the
stove and chimney system are in place, the stove user
can only vary technique, mostly your timing, to achieve
good results. If you keep track of your burning habits
and relate them to their effects on the stove’s operation,
you’ll be rewarded with good performance and a safe
system.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Maintenance
Let the fire in the stove go out and allow the stove to
cool completely before beginning any maintenance
procedure.
4. Install the glass. Lay the glass on the inner gasket
with the coated side down (toward the outside of
the door). Tighten the screws snugly, but loose
enough to allow for a little movement of the glass
when the stove is in operation. Overtightening can
crack the glass immediately or cause it to crack if it
is unable to expand when hot.
Care of the Cast Iron Surface
An occasional dusting with a dry rag will keep the
painted cast iron of your Intrepid looking new.
The stove’s paint can be touched up as needed. First,
clean the areas to be painted with a wire brush. Then,
touch up the stove with high temperature stove paint.
Apply the paint sparingly, and keep in mind that two
light coats of paint are better than a single heavy one.
Care of Porcelain Enamel Finish
Use a dry or slightly damp rag or a soft brush to remove
spills or stains. For difficult jobs that require a cleaning
agent, use only a kitchen appliance cleaner or polish
recommended for use on enamel surfaces.
Cleaning the Glass
Most of the carbon deposits on the glass will burn off
during hot fires. However, the ash residue that accumu-
lates on the glass surface should be removed regularly
to prevent etching. Follow this procedure to clean the
glass:
Rope
Gasket
• Be sure the glass is completely cool.
• Clean the glass with water or a cleaner made
especially for this purpose. Do not use abrasive
cleaners.
• Rinse the glass thoroughly.
• Dry the glass completely.
KT160
Fig. 42 Door glass installation.
Check the Operation of the
Primary Air Shutter
The primary air shutter is visible from the back of the
stove. The shutter must open and close freely when
you move the thermostat lever. If it does not, check for
any obstruction, or for a bound or stretched chain need-
ing adjustment. (Fig. 43)
Glass Replacement
Replace glass only with Part no. 140-1156 right side
and 140-1157 left side glass panels. The glass panel
rests on a cushion provided by a rope gasket part no
1203556, and is held in place by clips. (Fig. 42) The
glass is IR coated on one side which is marked “THIS
SIDE OUT”.
On a cold stove the shutter should be open no more
than 1/8” (3mm) when the primary air control lever is
pushed completely to the left (closed), as seen from the
back of the stove. When the lever is pushed completely
to the right (open), the shutter should be open to an
angle of approximately 70° from the stove back.
1. Remove the door from the stove and place it on a
sturdy, level work surface. Use a towel to protect
the porcelain enamel finish.
The ball chain should measure 8¹⁄₂” (216mm) from
connection to the thermostat coil to connection on the
primary air flap.
2. Remove the retainer clips. (Two phillips head
screws on each clip.)
3. Inspect the gasket. If the window gasket is in good
condition, you can leave it in place. If you replace
it, use only Part No. 1203556. Be sure the channel
around the window opening is clean, and free of
dust.
If setting is incorrect, the thermostat coil may be bent or
broken. Call your Vermont Castings Dealer for assis-
tance.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Tighten the Damper Handle as Needed
Thermostat Lever
The damper handle is attached to the damper rod
with a set screw bearing against a flat spot on the rod.
Check the set screw periodically for tightness; tighten
as needed.
IN
T
R
E
PI
D
II
Damper Adjustment
When the stove damper is closed, the pressure of the
rod against the damper plate assures a good seal be-
tween the damper and the damper housing. Adjustment
may be needed after a period of time to retain adequate
pressure.
Primary Air Shutter
To make this adjustment, start with the damper in the
closed and locked position. (Fig. 45) Loosen the 7/16”
locking nut in the center of the damper. Use a 1/8” Allen
wrench to turn the Allen screw a full turn clockwise. Test
the damper for snugness, and continue adjusting the
Allen screw as needed. Tighten the 7/16” locking nut
when the damper operates smoothly but firmly.
ST524
Fig. 43 The primary air shutter must move freely.
How to Adjust the Door Latch
Over time, the gasketing around the doors will com-
press, and the latch may need adjustment. To adjust
the latch, loosen the small locking nut, extend the
striker screw one turn while keeping the striker screw
from turning. (Fig. 44) Keep making adjustments a little
at a time until the setting is right.
Thermostat Cover
D-plate
The front doors of the stove should close securely and
tightly, when the handle is in the closed position. When
the latch is properly adjusted there should be a slight
resistance as the doors are moved to the completely
closed position.
Damper Actuator
Rod
Handle
Damper
Pawl
Small Lock-
ing Nut
Locking Nut
Allen Head Ad-
justment Screw
Striker Screw
ST532
Fig. 45 Tighten the damper adjustment screw for a snug
seal.
Large Lock-
ing Nut
Set Screw
Handle Stub
ST531
Fig. 44 Turn the door latch striker screw in or out to tighten or
loosen the door latch.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
You should see significantly more smoke after the sec-
ond step, when the stove damper is open and smoke
does not go through the combustor. However, do not
confuse smoke with steam form wet wood; steam dis-
appears rapidly in the air, smoke does not.
The Catalytic Combustion System
Inspection and Cleaning
This wood heater includes a catalytic combustor, which
needs periodic inspection and replacement for proper
operation. In the United States, it is against the law to
operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with
the operating instructions in this manual, or if the cata-
lytic element is deactivated or removed.
If this test indicates a problem, consider other possible
factors as well, such as the time of year or a change
in the quality of your fuel. In spring and fall, draft is
weaker than it is during colder winter weather, and fires
can burn sluggishly. Small, hot fires are a good solution
under these conditions.
Under normal operating conditions the catalytic element
should remain active for two to six years (depending on
the amount of wood burned). However, it is important
to monitor the combustor periodically to ensure that it
is functioning properly as well as to determine when it
needs to be replaced.
“Green” (insufficiently seasoned) wood will burn more
poorly than properly seasoned fuel. You may have to
run your stove hotter (with more primary air) to achieve
good performance if you are burning green or wet
wood.
A probe thermostat, passing through the back of the
stove into the catalytic combustion chamber, automati-
cally regulates the catalytic combustion air supply.
Deterioration of the probe may result in decreased
catalytic combustor performance.
Also, consider any changes in your burning routine.
Once you have ruled out any other possible causes for
decline in performance, you may inspect the combus-
tor and probe. Wear a dust mask, safety glasses, and
gloves. Refer to Figure 46 as a guide.
A poorly-functioning catalytic combustion system will
result in a loss of heating efficiency, and an increase in
creosote and emissions.
1. Remove the andirons.
2. Reach inside the stove with a pair of pliers and turn
the two clamps that hold the fireback 90°. Turn the
left clamp clockwise, and the right clamp counter-
clockwise.
The combustor should be visually inspected in place for
fly ash accumulation and physical damage three times
per year. Do not remove the combustor unless a more
detailed inspection is warranted because of diminished
performance as outlined below, or to inspect the probe
thermostat.
3. Grasp the fireback by its vertical ribs and remove it,
together with the attached throat hood. Pull the left
side out first.
The refractory package that houses the catalytic com-
bustor should be inspected annually for a buildup of flay
ash, and cleaned if necessary. This may be done during
examination of the combustor.
4. Carefully clean the left and right exhaust pockets of
the refractory package. Use a shop vacuum, ideally
one with a very fine filter, and be careful to avoid
damaging the refractory material. This material can
stand high temperatures, but it is somewhat brittle
physically.
The probe thermostat should be inspected annually, or
more often if decreased catalytic combustion perfor-
mance is not due to a defective combustor.
5. Carefully remove the refractory access panel in front
of the catalytic element.
When to Suspect a Combustion
System Problem
6. Gently slide the catalytic element out of the refrac-
tory chamber. Check the element and the bottom of
the chamber for a buildup of fly ash.
The best way to evaluate the performance of your In-
trepid II’s combustion system is to watch the amount of
smoke leaving the chimney - both when the combustor
has achieved “light-off” and when it has not. Follow this
procedure:
7. If the catalytic element is clogged, take it outdoors
for cleaning. Blow gently through the honeycomb. A
large amount of fly ash may come out of the ele-
ment.
8. Inspect the element. Although small hairline cracks
will not affect performance, the element should be
largely intact. If the element is broken in pieces or
has large sections missing, replace it. Call your
dealer for a replacement element, part no. 160-
2521.
With a fire going and the combustor activated, with the
damper closed to send smoke through the combustor
as described in the Operation Section, go outside and
watch the smoke leaving the chimney.
Then, open the stove damper and again watch the
smoke leaving the chimney.
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6. Remove the damper housing. It is held in place by
two weld screws and two chrome acorn nuts in the
back of the stove. Loosen the chrome acorn nuts
and rotate the tabs to release the damper housing.
You may find it necessary to remove or loosen the
thermostat cover to access the one of acorn nuts
installed behind the cover.
Refractory Chamber
INTREPID II
Catalytic Block
7. Remove the rear airtube in the back of the stove
which is held in place with two phillips screws.
Upper
Fireback
with Throat
Hood
8. Take out the secondary probe by removing the upper
phillips screw and sliding the probe out of the hole.
9. Lift the damaged refractory chamber up and out of
the firebox.
Exhaust
Pockets
Clamps
ST533
10. Reverse the procedure for installing the new refrac-
tory chamber.
Refractory Access Panel
Fig. 46 Removing the catalytic element.
Replace the Stove Gaskets as Needed
9. Use a flashlight and a mirror, inserted into one of
the exhaust pockets of the refractory chamber, to in-
spect the probe. The end of the probe should extend
about 1” into the combustion chamber, and should
not show any signs of deterioration.
The Intrepid uses fiberglass rope gaskets to make a
tight seal between some parts. With use, particularly on
those parts that move, gaskets can become brittle and
compressed, and can begin to lose their effectiveness.
These will need periodic replacement.
Use the stove in your usual manner for two weeks,
inspecting the chimney and the chimney connector
frequently.
The sizes of replaceable gasket are listed below, along
with their applications.
Gasket Diameter... And the Parts it Seals
5/16” wire gasket The griddle to the stove top
If creosote does not build up as quickly as before, it is
likely that the performance change was caused by fly
ash deposits on the catalytic element. However, moni-
tor the chimney system for a few weeks to ensure that
proper performance continues.
5/16”
The damper to the upper fire
back; the front doors to the
stove front; and the door
halves to each other
If you continue to find a significant creosote buildup or if
you continue to see excessive smoke from the chimney,
the catalytic element will need to be replaced. Call your
dealer for information about a replacement.
There is a flat, die-cut gasket between each glass panel
and its door. See page 24 for information on replacing
the glass panel or its gasket.
If you need to change a gasket, first obtain an appropri-
ate replacement from your Vermont Castings, Dealer.
NOTE: Use only replacement catalyst, part no. 160-
2521.
Wait until the fire is out and the stove has cooled. Be
sure to follow the standard safety procedure for working
with dusty materials: Wear safety goggles and a dust
mask.
Replace Refractory Package
Refer to Figure 46.
1. Remove andirons.
The procedure for replacing the gaskets is the same,
regardless of the gasket location.
2. Reach inside the stove with pair of pliers and turn
the two clamps that hold the fireback 90°. Turn the
let clamp clockwise and the right clamp counter-
clockwise. The bolts that hold these clamps are
tapped into the back as well as capped by chrome
acorn nuts in the back.
1. Remove the existing gasket by grasping an end and
pulling firmly.
2. Use a wire brush or a screwdriver to clean the chan-
nel of any remaining cement or bits of gasket. Re-
move stubborn deposits of cement with a cold chisel
if necessary.
3. Grasp the upper fireback by its vertical ribs and re-
move it, together with the attached throat hood. Pull
the left side out first.
3. Determine the correct length of the appropriate-sized
gasket by laying it out in the channel. Allow an extra
1-2” (25-50mm) and mark the spot to be cut.
4. Carefully remove the refractory access panel in front
of the catalytic block.
5. Gently slide the catalytic block out of the refractory
chamber.
4. Remove the gasket from the channel, place it on a
wood cutting surface, and cut it at the marked spot
with a utility knife. Twist the ends slightly to keep the
gasket from unraveling.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
extremely hot fire within the flue system that can dam-
age the chimney and overheat adjacent combustible
material.
5. Lay an unbroken 1/8” (3mm) bead of gasket cement
in the newly-cleaned channel. Starting at one end,
press the gasket into the channel. Ensure a good
joint where the gasket meets before trimming any
excess. Do not overlap the gasket ends or leave
ends with ragged edges.
If you do have a chimney fire, act promptly to:
• Close the damper and thermostat lever.
• Get everyone out of the house.
6. Press the gasketed part firmly against its normal
mating surface to seat the gasket evenly in its chan-
nel.
• Call the Fire department.
You should inspect the system every two weeks during
the heating season as part of a regular maintenance
schedule. To inspect the chimney, let the stove cool
completely. Then, using a mirror and a strong light,
sight up through the flue collar into the chimney flue. If it
is not possible to inspect the flue system in this fashion
the stove must be disconnected to provide better view-
ing access.
7. For doors, replace the doors and close them on
a piece of waxed paper to keep the cement from
migrating onto the stove front, or tap other parts with
the rubber mallet (or hammer/block of wood).
8. Clean excess cement from around the channel. Let
the cement that holds the new gasket dry thoroughly.
Adjust the Door if Necessary
If a significant layer of creosote has accumulated - 1/8”
(3mm) or more - remove it to reduce the risk of a chim-
ney fire.
The door latch or damper mechanism may need adjust-
ment after you have regasketed them. Initially, it may
require loosening to accommodate the new gasket; af-
ter a few weeks, it may need tightening to compensate
for compression of the new gasket. The directions for
adjusting the latch and damper are on Page 27.
Clean the chimney using a brush the same size and
shape as the flue liner. Flexible fiberglass rods are used
to run the brush up and down the liner, causing any
deposits to fall to the bottom of the chimney where they
can be removed through the clean out door.
Permanent Gaskets
The chimney connector should be cleaned by discon-
necting the sections, taking them outside, and removing
any deposits with a stiff wire brush. Reinstall the con-
nector sections after cleaning, being sure to secure the
individual sections with sheet metal screws.
Other gaskets seal between non-moving parts, but
these are not subject to the same wear and deteriora-
tion as gaskets on moving parts. It is unlikely that you
will ever need to replace these gaskets unless the
involved parts are disassembled and then put back
together. If this is the case, the job should be done only
by a qualified service technician. The diameter of the
gasket that seals these non-moving parts is 5/16”, and
the areas sealed are the flue collar to the stove back;
and the lower fireback to the sides. The glass panels
use a special die-cut flat gasket; refer to Page 24 for
information on these.
If you cannot inspect or clean the chimney yourself,
contact your local Vermont Castings authorized dealer
or hire a professional chimney sweep.
Annual Maintenance
Perform a thorough cleaning, inspection and repair
each spring, at the end of the heating season.
• Thoroughly clean the chimney and chimney connec-
tor.
The Chimney System
Creosote
• Inspect the chimney for damage and deterioration.
Replace weak sections of prefabricated chimney.
Have a mason make repairs to a masonry chimney.
Your Intrepid II is designed to reduce creosote buildup
significantly. However, regular chimney inspection and
maintenance must still be performed. For safety, good
stove performance, and to protect your chimney and
chimney connector, inspect the chimney and chimney
connector on a regular schedule. Clean the system if
necessary. Failure to keep the chimney and connector
system clean can result in a serious chimney fire.
• Inspect the chimney connector and replace any
damaged sections.
• Check gasketing for wear or compression, and
replace if necessary. A ‘paper test’ will guide you on
this. Close and lock the door or damper on a slip of
paper and then try to pull the paper out. If the paper
pulls out with little or no resistance, the gasket is not
snug enough at that spot. If adjusting the damper or
latch does not result in a seal that makes it hard to
pull the paper out, replace the gasketing.
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar, organic
vapors and moisture that combine to form creosote.
The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool
chimney flue. As a result, creosote residue accumulates
on the flue lining. When ignited, this creosote makes an
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
• Inspect and clean the catalytic block, and vacuum
out the ash at the bottom of the back plate after
removing the lower fireback. Lightly clean the refrac-
tory assembly that houses the element. Be careful
not to damage the refractory material, which is very
fragile.
• Check heat shield screws. Tighten as necessary.
• Clean dust from the inner sides of bottom, rear and
connector heat shields.
• Remove ashes from the ash pan and replace with
moisture absorbing material (such as cat litter) to
keep the stove interior dry. Close the stove door to
keep cats from using the litter.
• Inspect the secondary probe thermometer; refer to
Page 30.
• Touch up the paint on black stoves.
• Check door and damper handles for tightness. Ad-
just if needed.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Appendix: Catalytic Combustor
In any chemical reaction, including the combustion
Masking and Poisoning
process, there are certain conditions which must be
met before the reaction can take place. For example, a
reaction may require a certain temperature, or a certain
concentration of the reactants (the combustion gases
and oxygen), or a certain amount of time. Catalysts,
though not changed themselves during the reaction,
have the ability to act at a molecular level to change
these requirements. In the Intrepid II’s secondary
combustion chamber the catalyst reduces the tempera-
ture at which secondary combustion can start from the
1000 - 1200°F (540 - 650°C) range to the 500 - 600°F
(260 - 315°C) range, increasing efficiency, and reducing
creosote and emissions.
While the catalyst itself does not enter into the combus-
tion process, it is possible for certain elements, such
as lead and sulfur, to attach to the active sites on the
surface of the honeycomb. Though the catalyst is still
there, it is covered, or masked, by the contaminant, and
cannot function. To avoid this situation, it is important
not to burn anything in your Intrepid II that is a source
of these contaminants. Particularly avoid painted or
treated wood, coal, household trash, colored papers,
metal foils, or plastics. Chemical chimney cleaners may
also contain harmful elements. The safest approach is
to burn only untreated, natural wood.
The catalytic reaction, though advantageous, does
have some limitations of its own. Primary among these
it that the reactants (the gases) come into close physi-
cal contact with the catalyst itself.
Flame Impingement
The catalytic element is not designed for exposure to
direct flame. If you continually overfire your Intrepid
II, the chemistry of the catalyst coating may be altered,
inhibiting the combustion process. A glowing stove part
at the back of the firebox is a sign of over-firing.
To ensure the necessary contact, the catalytic element
in your Intrepid II is composed of a ceramic base in the
shape of a honeycomb. On each of the honeycomb’s
many surfaces a coating of the catalyst (usually a
noble metal such as platinum or palladium) is applied.
The large surface area exposed in this configuration
ensures that the combustion gases have the greatest
opportunity to come in contact with the catalyst.
Thermal degradation of the ceramic base may also oc-
cur, causing the element to disintegrate. Stay within the
recommended guidelines of the Operation section.
Mechanical Damage
If the element is mishandled, damage may occur.
Always treat the element carefully. Remember the
catalyst is made of a ceramic material; treat it as you
would fine china. Hairline cracks will not affect the
performance of the catalyst, as long as the steel sleeve
holds the element in the proper position.
Loss of catalytic activity will be apparent in several
ways. First you may notice an increase in fuel con-
sumption. Second, there will be a visible increase in the
rate at which creosote builds up in your chimney con-
nector system. You may also notice a heavy discharge
of smoke from the chimney. A number of catalytic
problems which can cause loss of activity are described
Peeling
below:
Peeling of the surface coat may occur if the catalytic
element is frequently subjected to excessive tempera-
tures. Follow the operating instructions carefully to
avoid this type of damage.
Blockage
While the honeycomb pattern ensures good contact, it
also increases the resistance to flow of the combustion
gases, and, because of the many surfaces, provides
more places for creosote and fly ash to deposit. It is
important to follow the operating instructions in order
to minimize these deposits, and to periodically inspect
your catalyst for signs of blockage.
Every CFM Corporation product is equipped with either
a Corning “Long-Life”® or a Technical Glass Products
“Honeycomb”®. The products are equivalent. If for any
reason you must ship your catalytic element, remem-
ber its fragile nature. Place the element in a plastic
bag, and package it with a generous amount of shock
absorbing material.
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
17
16
2
1
4
18
3
5
6
20
43
43
21
22
21
28
26
25
27
8
7
24
29
30
22a
31
9
23
32
10
39
36
33
38
73
9
40
41
11
12
34
42
37
12
13
35
15
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CFM Corporation reserves the right to make changes in design, materials, specifications, prices and discontinue colors and products at any time,
without notice.
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Model 1990
Item Description
Part Number
Item Description
Part Number
1. Secondary Air Cover
2. Flue Collar
3. Back Panel
4. Damper Rod
5. Damper Clip
6. Damper
7. Damper Housing
8. Throat Hood
9. Weld Screw
1306762
See Chart Pg. 36
1308662
12. 3/8” - 16 x 1¹⁄₂” Hex Bolt
13. Lower Fireback
15. Rear Air Tube
16. Thermostat Cover
17. Damper Handle Assembly
18. Friction Spring
20. Thermostat Clip
21. Ball Chain Fitting (2)
22. Ball Chain
22a. Thermostat Assembly
23. Primary Air Flap
1201456
1306704
1308658
1306711
5004265
1201846
1601408
1201972
1201960
5005506
1306710
1602523
1306725
1306701
1306702
30001649
1201583
1306703
10. Upper Fireback
11. Fireback Clamp
1306724
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
44
45
66
47
48
46
51
49
56
64
63
65
50
62
68
53
54
72
57
61
67
60
52
55
57
59
58
CFM Corporation reserves the right to make changes in design, materials, specifications, prices and discontinue colors and products at any time,
without notice.
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Model 1990 (continued)
Item Description
24. Air Flap Pin
25. Clip
26. #10-24 x 3/8” Pan Head Bolt
27. #10-24 x 1/4” Pan Head Bolt
28. Secondary Probe Assembly
29. Secondary Air Link
30. Phillips Bolt, 1/4”-20 x 5/8”
31. Shim Ring
Part Number
Item Description
Part Number
1601551
1601396
1200983
1200980
1601489
1601486
1200896
1201986
1601490
1602527
30001153
35. Refractory Access Panel
36. Andiron
37. Left Insert
38. Grate
39. Right Insert
40. Ashpan Only
41. Ashpan Front Only
42. Ashpan Handle
43. Damper Tab
44. Griddle
1602516
1306717
1308651
1308652
1308650
1400951
1306493
30000973
1601488
1306356
1301832
32. Secondary Air Flap
33. Refractory Chamber w/ Access Panel
34. Catalyst Block
45. Right Griddle Quad
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Model 1990 (continued)
Item Description
46. Left Griddle Quad
47. Top
48. Right Side
49. Bottom
50. Left Side
51. Leg
52. Tie Rod
53. Leg Bolt, 3/8”-16 x 1” Hex Bolt
54. Right Air Manifold
55. Left Air Manifold
56. Handle Holder
Part Number
1301807
Please record the following information
for future reference.
See Chart Pg. 36
See Chart Pg. 36
See Chart Pg. 36
See Chart Pg. 36
See Chart Pg. 36
1601640
Stove Serial No. _____________________
Dealer ____________________________
__________________________________________
__________________________________________
Phone _____________________________
Date Purchased _____________________
1201432
1308654
1308653
1600600
57. Front
58. Left Door
59. Left Glass Panel2
See Chart Pg. 36
See Chart Pg. 36
1401157
Installer ___________________________
__________________________________________
__________________________________________
Phone _____________________________
Date Installed _______________________
60. Right Door
See Chart Pg. 36
1401156
61. Right Glass Panel2
62. Handle Bolt, 1/4”-20 x 3³⁄₈”1
63. Ceramic Handle1
64. Handle Insert1
1201294
20006381
30002714
30002719
30002775
1203556
5004025
30000832
65. Front Door Handle
66. Griddle Handle Assembly
67. Gasket, Fiberglas 3/16” Rnd, Blk
68. Latch Assembly
69. Glass Clips, Bottom
70. Glass Clips, Side
71. Glass Clips, Top
72. Nut, Jam
NOTES:
1. Part of assembly 0004345.
2. The glass panels have a heat-reflective coating on the
outside and are not interchangeable.
30000833
30000834
1203290
73. Ashpan Assembly
74. Bottom Heat Shield Assy. (not shown)
75. C-Clip (not shown)
76. Wing Screw (not shown)
5003522
30004020
1204015
1201621
Shell Enamel Parts - Intrepid II Model 1990
Enamel
Color
Left
Side
Right
Side
Flue
Collar
Left Door Right Door Single
Top
Bottom
Front
Only
Only
Leg
Classic
Biscuit
Bordeaux 2328657
1308657
1306764 1308656 1308655 1306561 1308647
1308649
1308648 1306333
30003178 30003182
2328648 2326333
30003180 30003174 30003176 30003175 30003181 30003177 30003179
2326764 2328656 2328655 2326561 2328647
2328649
Chestnut
Brown
Ebony
30003190 30003184 30003186 30003185 30003191 30003187 30003189
30003200 30003194 30003196 30003195 30003201 30003197 30003199
30001888 30003192
30003198 30003202
Forest
Green
2318657
2316764 2318656 2318655 2316561 2318647
2318649
2318648 2316333
Midnight
Blue
Sand
2378657
1328657
2376764 2378656 2378655 2376561 2378647
1326764 1328656 1328655 1326561 1328647
2378649
1328649
2378648 2376333
1328648 1326333
Suede
Brown
Vt.Classic
Green
30002571 30002567 30002569 30002568 30002508 30002570 30002506
30003210 30003204 30003206 30003205 30003211 30003207 30003209
30002505 30002509
30003208 30003212
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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
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Warranty
Exclusions & Limitations
1. This warranty is transferable; however, proof of original retail pur-
chase is required.
Limited 3 Year Warranty
CFM Corporation warrants that this woodburning stove will be free of de-
fects in material and workmanship for a period of three years from the date
you receive it, except that the catalyst, thermostat assembly, handles, glass
door panels, cement, and gasketing shall be warranted as described below.
2. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove. Misuse includes
overfiring which will result if the stove is used in such a manner as
to cause one or more of the plates to glow red. Overfiring can be
identified later by warped plates and areas where the paint pigment
has burned off. Overfiring in enamel fireplaces is identified by bub-
bling, cracking, chipping and discoloration of the porcelain enamel
finish. CFM Corporation offers no warranty on chipping of enamel
surfaces. Inspect your woodburning stove prior to accepting it for
any damage to the enamel.
CFM Corporation will repair or replace, at its option, any part found
to be defective upon inspection by a Vermont Castings, Authorized
Dealer. The customer must return the defective part or the stove, with
shipping prepaid, to the Authorized Dealer or pay for any Authorized
Dealer in-home travel fees or service charges for in-home repair work.
It is the dealer’s option whether the repair work will be done in the cus-
tomer’s home or in the dealer’s shop. If, upon inspection, the damage is
found to be the fault of the manufacturer, repairs will be authorized at no
charge to the customer for parts and/or labor.
3. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove as described
in the Owner’s Guide, nor does it cover an stove which has been
modified unless authorized by a CFM Corporation representative in
writing. This warranty does not cover damage to the stove caused
by burning salt saturated wood, chemically treated wood, or any fuel
not recommended in the Owner’s Guide.
Any woodburning stove or part thereof that is repaired or replaced dur-
ing the limited warranty period will be warranted under the terms of the
limited warranty for a period not to exceed the remaining term of the
original limited warranty or six (6) months, whichever is longer.
4. This warranty does not cover a stove repaired by someone other
than a Vermont Castings Authorized Dealer.
Limited 1 Year Warranty
The following parts of the woodburning stove are warranted to be free
of defects in material and workmanship for a period of one year from
the date you receive it: The thermostat assembly, handles, glass door
panels, cement, and gasketing. Any of these items found to be defec-
tive will be repaired or replaced at no charge, upon the return of the part
with postage prepaid to a Vermont Castings Authorized Dealer.
5. Damage to the unit while in transit is not covered by this warranty
but is subject to a claim against the common carrier. Contact
Vermont Castings Authorized Dealer from whom you purchased
your stove or CFM Corporation if the purchase was direct. (Do not
operate the stove as this may negate the ability to process the claim
with the carrier.)
Any part repaired or replaced during the limited warranty period will
be warranted under the terms of the limited warranty for a period not
to exceed the remaining term of the original limited warranty or six (6)
months, whichever is longer.
6. Claims are not valid where the installation does not conform to local
building and fire codes or, in their absence, to the recommendations
in our Owner’s Guide.
7. The salt air environment of coastal areas, or a high-humidity en-
vironment, can be corrosive to the porcelain enamel finish. These
conditions can cause rusting of the cast iron beneath the porcelain
enamel finish, which will cause the porcelain enamel finish to flake
off. This warranty does not cover damage caused by a salt air or
high-humidity environment.
Limited Catalyst Warranty
The catalyst will be warranted for a six year period as follows: If the
original catalyst or a replacement catalyst proves defective or ceases to
maintain 70% of its particulate emission reduction activity (as measured
by an approved testing procedure) within 24 months from the date the
stove is received, the catalyst itself will be replaced free.
8. CFM Corporation shall have no obligation to enhance or update any
unit once manufactured.
From 25 - 72 months a pro-rated credit will be allowed against a re-
placement catalyst and the cost of labor necessary for its installation at
the time of replacement.
IN NO EVENT SHALL CFM CORPORATION BE LIABLE FOR INCI-
DENTAL AND CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES. ALL IMPLIED WAR-
RANTIES, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANT-
ABILITY AND FITNESS, ARE LIMITED TO THE DURATION OF
THIS WRITTEN WARRANTY. THIS WARRANTY SUPERCEDES ALL
OTHER ORAL OR WRITTEN WARRANTIES.
For stove purchases made after June 30, 1990, a third year
(25 - 36 months) of no charge replacement will be made when combus-
tor failure is due to thermal degradation of the substrate (crumbling of
ceramic material). The customer must pay for any in-home travel fees,
service charges, or transportation costs for returning the stove to the
Authorized Dealer.
Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitations of incidential and
consequential damages or limitations on how long an implied warranty
lasts, so the above limitations may not apply to you. This warranty gives
you specific rights and you may have other rights which vary from state
to state.
Amount of Time
Since Purchase
0 - 24 months
25 - 36 months
37 - 48 months
49 - 60 months
61 - 72 months
Credit Towards
Replacement Cost
100%
50 %
30%
20%
10%
How to Obtain Service
If a defect is noted within the warranty period, the customer should
contact a Vermont Castings Authorized Dealer or CFM Corporation if
the purchase was direct with the following information:
Any replacement catalyst will be warranted under the terms of the
catalyst warranty for the remaining term of the original warranty. The
purchaser must provide the following information in order to receive a
replacement catalyst under the terms of this limited warranty:
1. Name, address, and telephone number of the purchaser.
2. Date of purchase.
3. Serial number from the label on the back.
4. Nature of the defect or damage.
1. Name, address and telephone number.
2. Proof of original purchase date.
3. Date of failure of catalyst.
5. Any relevant information or circumstances, e.g., installation,
mode of operation when defect was noted.
A warranty claim will then start in process. CFM Corporation reserves
the right to withhold final approval of a warranty claim pending a visual
inspection of the defect by authorized representatives.
4. Any relevant information or circumstances regarding determina-
tion of failure.
5. In addition, the owner must return the failed catalyst.
39
2000966
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CFM Corporation
410 Admiral Blvd. • Mississauga, Ontario, Canada L5T 2N6
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