Non-Catalytic
Convection
Heater
Model 2478CE
Homeowner’s
Installation and
Operating Manual
For use in Europe
SAFETY NOTICE
If this heater is not properly installed, operated, and maintained, a house fire may result.
For safety, follow all installation, operation and maintenance directions. Contact local
building officials about restrictions and installation inspection requirements in your
area.
DO NOT DISCARD THIS MANUAL: Retain for future use
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
Specifications
Dutchwest NC Model 2478CE
Nominal heat output ............. 11.6 kW (39,600 BTU/hr)1
Minimum flue draught...................... 12 Pa (0.048” WG)
Mean flue gas temp.............................. 457° C (855° F)
Efficiency (space heating) ................................... 72.0%
Area heated.................74-149 sq. m (800-1600 sq. ft.)1
Fuel size/type ................................. 560 mm (22”) wood
Flue mass gas flow .............................................7.7 g/s
CO Emissions (@ 13% O2) ............................. 900 ppm
Loading....................................................Side and front
Chimney connector .....................152 mm (6”) diameter
Chimney flue size........................152 mm (6”) diameter
Flue exit position ..........................................Top or rear
Air control ................................................................One
Ash handling system ..................... Removable ash pan
Glass panels.........................High temperature ceramic
Weight .................................................191 kg (420 lbs.)
Width (leg-to-leg)...................................695 mm (27¹⁄₄”)
Depth (leg-to-leg) ..................................445 mm (17¹⁄₂”)
Height to top of flue collar......................775 mm (30¹⁄₂”)
1. This value can vary depending on how the stove
is operated, the type and moisture content of the fuel
used, as well as the design, construction and climatic
location of your home. Figures shown are based on
nominal fuel consumption obtained under laboratory
conditions and on average efficiencies.
A
D
C
G
F
B
E
Model 2478CE
A
B
C
D
E
F
683 mm
695 mm
756 mm
438 mm
445 mm
692 mm
775 mm
(26³⁄₄”)
(27¹⁄₄”)
(29³⁄₄”)
(17¹⁄₄”)
(17¹⁄₂”)
(27¹⁄₄”) Center of Flue Collar, Rear Exit
(30¹⁄₂”)
G
Fig. 1 Dutchwest Convection Heater specifications.
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
Installation
SAFETY NOTICE: IF YOUR DUTCHWEST CON-
VECTION HEATER IS NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED,
OPERATED AND MAINTAINED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY
RESULT. FOR SAFETY, FOLLOW ALL INSTALLA-
TION, OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE DIREC-
TIONS. CONTACT LOCAL BUILDING OFFICIALS
ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND INSTALLATION
INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS IN YOUR AREA.
Chimney Types
Your Dutchwest Convection Heater must be connected
to a code-approved masonry chimney with a flue liner,
to a relined masonry chimney that meets local codes, or
to a prefabricated metal chimney.
Whatever kind you use, the chimney and chimney con-
nector must be in good condition and kept clean.
Before you begin the installation, review your plans to
confirm that:
Masonry Chimneys
• Your stove and chimney connector will be far enough
from combustible material to meet all clearance
requirements.
If you use an existing masonry chimney, it must be
inspected to ensure safe condition before the stove
is installed. Your local professional chimney sweep,
building inspector, or fire department official will be able
either to make the inspection or to direct you to some-
one who can.
• The floor protector is large enough and is construct-
ed properly to meet all requirements.
• You have obtained all necessary permits from local
authorities.
An inspection of the chimney must confirm that it has
a lining. Do not use an unlined chimney. The chimney
should also be examined for cracks, loose mortar, other
signs of deterioration, and blockage. Repair any defects
before the chimney is used with your stove.
Your local building official is the final authority for ap-
proving your installation as safe and for determining
that it meets local and state codes.
The metal label permanently attached to the back of
every Dutchwest stove indicates the stove has been
tested to current standards. The test standard is
EN13240:2001 + A2:2004 for Europe. Clearance and
installation information is printed on the metal label at-
tached to the rear of the stove. Local authorities gen-
erally will accept the label as evidence that, when the
stove is installed according to the information on the
label and in this manual, the installation meets codes
and can be approved.
Unused openings in an existing masonry chimney must
be sealed with masonry to the thickness of the chimney
wall, and the chimney liner should be repaired. Open-
ings sealed with pie plates or wallpaper are a hazard
and should be sealed with mortar or refractory cement.
In the event of a chimney fire, flames and smoke may
be forced out of these unused thimbles.
The chimney should be thoroughly cleaned before use.
A newly-built masonry chimney must conform to the
standards of your local building code or, in the absence
of a local code, to a recognized national code. Masonry
chimneys must be lined, either with code-approved ma-
sonry or pre-cast refractory tiles, stainless steel pipe, or
a code-approved, “poured-in-place” liner. The chimney’s
clean-out door must seal tightly.
Codes vary in different areas, however. Before starting
the installation, review your plans with the local building
authority. Your local dealer can provide any additional
information needed.
IMPORTANT: FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE IN-
STALLATION INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN A
DANGEROUS SITUATION, INCLUDING A CHIMNEY
OR HOUSE FIRE. FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS
EXACTLY, AND DO NOT ALLOW MAKESHIFT COM-
PROMISES TO ENDANGER PROPERTY AND PER-
SONAL SAFETY.
The flue and chimney design must meet requirement
J2, Part J of the building regulations 2000 (Combustion
Appliances and Fuel Storage Systems).
All local regulations, including those referring to
national and European standards need to be com-
plied with when installing this stove.
4
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
Connecting Flue Pipes
Prefabricated Double-Wall
Insulated Chimney
Connector pipes should meet the requirements of the
building regulations. This can be achieved by the use
connecting fluepipes included in the following catego-
ries:
a) Vitreous enamelled steel pipe complying with BS
6999: 1989 (1996);
b) Pipes made from stainless steel as descirbed in BS
EN 1008-1:1995 grades 1.4401, 1.4404, 1.4432 or
1.4436 with flue wall thickness of at least 1 mm;
c) Mild steel fluepipes complying with BS 1449: Part 1:
1991, with a flue wall thickness of at least 3 mm;
d) Cast iron fluepipes complying with BS 41: 1973
(1998).
Tile Lined
Masonry
Chimney
ST241
Fig. 2 If in sound condition and approved for use, either a
masonry or a prefabricated chimney may be used.
Flue Pipes with a spigot and socket joint should be
fitted with the socket facing upwards, to contain con-
densates and moisture within the flue. Joints should be
made gas tight using proprietary jointing accessories,
or, where appropriate, by packing joint with noncombus-
tible rope and fire cement.
Prefabricated Chimneys
These should be an internal diameter of 150 mm (6”)
and be of the twin wall insulated construction that has
been approved for solid fuel use (e.g. Rite Vent ICS of
ICID Lite Chimney Systems). Diameters over 200 mm
(8”) are not recommended due to the large cross-sec-
tion causing excessive cooling of the flue gases.
Do not pass the chimney connector through a combus-
tible wall, floor, or ceiling, through an attic or roof space,
or through a closet or similar concealed space. If pas-
sage through a combustible wall is unavoidable, follow
the recommendations in the following section on Wall
Pass-Throughs. Keep the passage as short and direct
as possible, with no more than two 90° turns.
A horizontal connector run should be inclined 20 mm
per meter (1/4” per foot) from the stove toward the
chimney. The recommended maximum length of a
horizontal run is 914 mm (36”) and the total length of
chimney connector should be no longer than 2.4 m (8’).
Chimney
Flue Liner
Flue
Elbow
DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE
SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
Thimble
Slip Pipe
Chimney Size
Standard Connector
The Model 2478CE heater should be vented into a ma-
sonry chimney with a square flue with nominal flue size
of 203 x 203 mm (8” x 8”), or a round flue with nominal
flue size of 152 mm (6”).
Flue Collar
Floor Protector
Chimney liners larger than 203 x 305 mm (8” x 12”) may
promote rapid cooling of smoke and reduction in draft,
especially if they are located outside the home. These
large chimneys may need to be insulated or have their
flues relined for proper stove performance.
ST418
Fig. 3 Sections of a steel chimney connector of at least 24
gauge thickness are fastened together with screws to
connect the stove to the chimney.
Accessories to help make the connection between
stainless steel chimney liners and the stove are avail-
able through your local dealer.
Two Types of Connector
Guidelines for Installing
the Chimney Connector
You may use either a single-wall steel connector of the
size and gauge described below, or a listed and ap-
proved double-wall connector.
The chimney connector is the single-wall pipe, or listed
and approved double-wall pipe that connects the stove
to the chimney. The chimney itself is a masonry or
prefabricated structure that encloses the flue. Chimney
connectors are used only to make the connection from
the stove to the chimney.
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
mm) holes in the bottom of the first section of chimney
connector and secure it to the flue collar with three #10
x 1/2” sheet metal screws.
Single-Wall Connector
The single-wall chimney connector should be made of
24 gauge or heavier steel, and must have a minimum
internal diameter of 152 mm (6”) for model 2478CE.
2. Secure each joint between sections of chimney con-
nector, including telescoping joints, with at least three
sheet metal screws.
Install single-wall chimney connector not less than 18”
(450 mm) from the ceiling.
3. Secure the chimney connector to the chimney. In-
In cathedral ceiling installations, extend the prefabricat-
ed chimney downward to within 2.4 m (8’) of the stove.
The entire chimney connector should be exposed and
accessible for inspection and cleaning.
structions for various installations follow below.
4
.
Confirm that the installed stove and chimney con-
nector are correct distances from nearby combustible
material.
Do not use galvanized chimney connector; it cannot
withstand the high temperatures that can be reached
by smoke and exhaust gases and it may release toxic
fumes under high heat.
NOTE: Special slip pipes and thimble sleeves that form
telescoping joints between sections of chimney con-
nector are available to simplify installations. They can
eliminate the need to cut individual connector sections.
Consult your local dealer about these special pieces.
Double-Wall Connector
Information on assembling and installing double-wall
connectors is provided by the manufacturer of the
double-wall pipe. Follow the manufacturer’s installation
instructions exactly. Most manufacturers of prefabri-
cated double-wall insulated chimneys also offer double-
wall connector pipes. Using a chimney and connector
pipe from the same manufacturer helps simplify the
assembly and installation.
Securing the Connector to a
Prefabricated Chimney
Follow the installation instructions of the chimney
manufacturer exactly as you install the chimney. The
manufacturer of the chimney will supply the acces-
sories to support the chimney, either from the roof of
the house, at the ceiling of the room where the stove is
installed, or from an exterior wall.
NOTE: For installations using double-wall connec-
tors, minimum clearances must conform to listed
clearances in the Stove and Chimney Connector
Clearance Charts on Page 12 and 13 of this manual.
Special adaptors are available from your local dealer
to make the connection between the prefabricated
chimney and the chimney connector. (Fig. 5) The top
of such adaptors attach directly to the chimney or to the
chimney’s ceiling support package, while the bottom of
the adaptor is screwed to the chimney connector.
Assembling Single-Wall
Chimney Connector
These adaptors are designed so the top end will fit
outside the inner wall of the chimney, and the bottom
end will fit inside the first section of chimney connector.
Any soot or creosote falling from the inner walls of the
chimney will stay inside the chimney connector.
SAFETY NOTE: Always wear gloves and safety
goggles when drilling, cutting or joining sections of
chimney connector.
For double-wall
connectors, follow
the manufacturer’s
Toward
instructions exact-
Stove
Prefab (Insulated)
Chimney
ly. For single-wall
connectors, follow
the instructions
below.
1. Insert the
crimped end of the
Ceiling Support
Package
first section into
Flue Gas
Prefab Chimney
Adapter
the stove’s flue
Direction
collar, and keep
Chimney Connector
(Stovepipe)
each crimped end
pointing toward
ST242
the stove (Fig. 4).
ST419
Using the holes in
the flue collar as
guides, drill 1/8” (3
Fig. 4 Crimped sections always point
toward the stove so that any liquid
condensation will not leak out.
Fig. 5 Joining the chimney connector to a prefabricated
chimney.
6
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
connector enters the chimney. Follow all the guidelines
for installing a chimney connector into a freestanding
masonry chimney, and pay special attention to these
additional points:
Securing the Connector
to a Masonry Chimney
The Dutchwest Convection heater may be connected
to either a freestanding masonry chimney or a masonry
fireplace chimney.
• Check the stove and chimney connector clearances
to combustible mantel or trim materials. Use the
necessary combination of mantel, trim, and connec-
tor heat shields to provide the required clearances.
(Fig. 7)
Freestanding Installations
If the chimney connector must pass through a combus-
tible wall to reach the chimney, follow the recommenda-
tions in the wall pass-through section that follows.
The opening through the chimney wall to the flue
(the “breech”) must be lined with either a ceramic or
metal cylinder, called the “thimble”, which is securely
cemented in place. (Fig. 6) Most chimney breeches
incorporate thimbles, but check to be sure the fit is snug
and the joint between thimble and chimney wall firmly
cemented.
• Double-check connector clearance from the ceiling.
• The fireplace damper must be closed and sealed
to prevent room air from being drawn up the flue,
reducing the draft. However, it must be possible to
re-open the damper to inspect or clean the chimney.
Masonry Wall
Ceramic Flue Liner
Thimble
Sleeve
Chimney Connec-
tor Shield
Flue
Elbow
Thimble
Block-Off Plate
Keep
Chimney Connector
Sleeve
End Flush
with Flue
Tile
Chimney
Connector
ST243
Flue Liner
ST796as
Fig. 6 The thimble, made of either ceramic or metal, must be
cemented in place securely.
Fig. 7 The connector enters flue above the fireplace. If the
clearance between the chimney connector and either the
mantel and/or the ceiling is inadequate, special protective
shields will be required.
A special piece called the “thimble sleeve,” slightly
smaller in diameter than the standard connector and
most thimbles, will ease the removal of the chimney
connector system for inspection and cleaning. Thimble
sleeves should be available from your local dealer.
Fireplace Installations -
Through the Fireplace
To install a thimble sleeve, slide it into the breech until
it is flush with the inner flue wall. Don’t extend it into
the actual flue passage, as that could interfere with the
draft.
The Convection heater may be installed either without
legs* as a fireplace insert, or with standard legs at-
tached - depending on the safety regulations that apply
to your situation, the height of the fireplace opening and
your own preference. For either situation, the chimney
connector/positive connection kit extends back from the
stove, enters the fireplace cavity, and turns upward. It
then passes through the fireplace damper opening and
smoke chamber and connects to the chimney flue.
The thimble sleeve should protrude 25-51 mm (1-2”)
into the room. Use furnace cement and thin gasketing
to seal the sleeve in place in the thimble. Secure the
chimney connector to the outer end of the sleeve with
sheet metal screws.
Fireplace Installations -
Above the Fireplace
In such installations, a “positive connection” must be
made to the chimney flue with a special kit available
from your local dealer. Also, special clearance and floor
protection provisions must be observed. These provi-
sions are discussed in the Clearance and Floor Protec-
tion sections respectively.
In this installation, the chimney connector rises from
the stove, turns ninety degrees, and goes back into the
fireplace chimney. The liner of the fireplace chimney
should extend at least to the point at which the chimney
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
er or your local building inspector can provide details of
other approved methods of passing a chimney connec-
tor through a combustible wall.
Flue Liner
Extend Chimney Con-
nector to the First Tile of
the Flue Liner
Damper
Plate is
Removed
or Locked
in Open
Position
DO NOT CONNECT THE HEATER TO ANY AIR DIS-
TRIBUTION DUCT OR SYSTEM.
Observe
Miniumum Clearances
460 mm (18”) Empty
Space All Around the
Chimney Connector
Sheet Metal
Cover
(One side
only)
Close Off
the Damper
Opening with
Sheet Metal
and Sealant
ST797
Fig. 8 The connector passes through the fireplace to enter
flue. Special Fireplace Adapter Kits to simplify fireplace instal-
lations are available from your local dealer.
Wall Pass-Throughs
ST421
Whenever possible, design your installation so the con-
nector does not pass through a combustible wall. If you
must use a wall pass-through in your installation, check
with your building inspector before you begin and con-
struct it in accordance with local building codes. Also
check with the chimney connector manufacturer for any
specific requirements.
Fig. 9 Hollow wall pass-through.
Hearths
This appliance must be installed on to hearth that
meets the requirements of Part J of the Building Regu-
lations 2000 (Combustion Appliances and Fuel Storage
Systems). This can be achieved by ensuring that the
hearth is constructed and sized in accordance with the
guidelines included in section 2 of approved document
‘J’. The size and clearances of the hearth are as fol-
lows:
Accessories are available for use as wall pass-
throughs. If using one of these, make sure it has been
tested and listed for use as a wall pass-through. Figure
9 shows one method of passing a connector through
a wall. All combustible material in the wall is cut away
to provide the required 460 mm (18”) clearance for the
connector. The resulting space must remain empty.
The constructed hearth should be constructed in ac-
cordance with the recommendations in document J,
and should be of minimum width 840 mm and minimum
depth 840 mm (if a free standing hearth b) above) or
a minimum projection of 150 mm from the jamb (if a
recessed hearth a) above).
A flush-mounted sheet metal cover may be used on one
side only. If covers must be used on both sides, each
cover must be mounted on non-combustible spacers at
least 25 mm (1”) clear of the wall. Your Dutchwest deal-
Costructional Hearth
Dimensions as below
At least 150 mm
or to a suitable
heat resistant wall
Appliance
Doors
Appliance
Doors
Hearth Surface
Free of Com-
bustible Material
At least
150 mm
Perimeter should be
clearly marked e.g.
edge of superimposed
hearth
Perimeter should be
clearly marked e.g.
edge of superimposed
hearth
At least
300 mm
a) Fireplace recess
b) Free standing
ST912
Fig. 10 Noncombustible hearth surface dimensions.
8
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
Hearth rugs do not satisfy the requirements for floor
protection.
Fireplace Installations
The Dutchwest Model 2478CE has a reversible flue col-
lar to allow for either top exit or rear exit installations.
Fireplace insert installations also have specific clear-
ance requirements to the side walls, side decorative
trim, and fireplace mantel. This information is found in
“Fireplace Installation Clearances” in this section.
You may install your Dutchwest Model 2478CE in an
existing fireplace as a fireplace insert with no legs, or
with the standard legs attached.
REMINDER- FIREPLACE INSERT INSTALLATIONS
WITHOUT LEGS ARE PERMISSIBLE ONLY IF THE
HEARTH IS COMPLETELY NONCOMBUSTIBLE,
SUCH AS UNPAINTED CONCRETE OVER EARTH.
To install the heater without legs as a fireplace insert,
the floor must be completely noncombustible, such as
an unpainted concrete floor over earth.
Many fireplaces do not satisfy the “completely non-
combustible” requirement because the brick or con-
crete hearth in front of the fireplace opening usually is
supported by heavy wooden framing as in Figure 11.
Because heat passes readily through brick or concrete,
it can easily pass through to the wood. As a result, such
fireplace hearths are considered a combustible floor.
You may not install a heater on a combustible hearth
without legs. Standard leg installations must include the
bottom heat shield. The floor protector must also meet
standard requirements for freestanding installations.
ST809
Fig. 12 Extra floor protection may be required for the fire-
place hearth, even if your stove is installed with the legs and
the bottom heat shield.
Keep the Stove a Safe Distance
From Surrounding Materials
A
Both a stove and its chimney connector radiate heat in
all directions when operating. A safe installation re-
quires that adequate clearance be maintained between
the stove and nearby combustible materials to ensure
that such materials do not overheat.
ST799
Fig. 11 Combustible supporting timbers (A) may lie beneath
fireplace hearths; such situations require additional floor
protection.
Clearance is the distance between either your stove or
chimney connector, and nearby walls, floors, the ceiling,
and any other fixed combustible surface. Keep furnish-
ings and other combustible materials away from the
stove as well. In general, a distance of 1220 mm (48”)
must be maintained between the stove and moveable
combustible items such as drying clothes, furniture,
newspapers, firewood, etc. Keeping those clearance
areas empty assures that nearby surfaces and objects
will not overheat.
Floor Protection for Fireplace Installations
Fireplace installations with the standard legs and the
bottom heat shield must have a floor protector of the
same construction as that specified for freestanding
installations. The floor protector must extend at least
406 mm (16”) from the front of the stove and from the
left (loading door) side, and at least 203 mm (8”) from
the right side and rear. It must also provide protection
beneath any horizontal runs of the chimney connector,
including 51 mm (2”) to either side.
Many raised hearths will extend less than the required
distance from the front of the heater when it is installed.
In such cases, sufficient floor protection, as described
above, must be added to extend the hearth 406 mm
(16”).
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
bustible material forming the recess of a fireplace is a
minimum of 200 mm.
Clearances
As with any solid fuel heating stove, extremely high
surface temperatures can occur, particularly in the
event of uncontrolled operation, e.g. if the doors
are inadvertently left open. It is crucial that suf-
ficient clearances are allowed to any combustible
surfaces, e.g. wooden mantels or lintels, and to
timber framed (studded) walls even if they are faced
with noncombustible board. Detailed information
on fireplace and hearth construction is provided
in section 2 of Document J, all installations must
comply with these requirements or with the relevant
National or local building standards.
Minimum rear clearance from combustible walls
(e.g. timber framed or studded walls) 660 mm (26”)
measured from the rear edge of the stove top. (Fig.
13, B)
Minimum side clearance from combustible walls
600 mm (23⁵⁄₈”) measured from the side edge of the
stove top. (Fig. 13, A)
Minimum distance from stove to movable combus-
tible materials (e.g. furniture, drying clothes, etc.)
1220 mm (48”).
Clearances to timber framed (studded) walls are includ-
ed below. There are no specific minimum clearances
to solid noncombustible, surfaces (e.g. the sides and
rear of Inglenook fire openings constructed from solid
masonry) other than to allow safe access to the controls
of the stove. For this reason minimum side clearances
of 125 mm, and a minimum rear clearance of 50 mm
are recommended.
B
A
ST486a
Fig. 13 Minimum clearances.
Summary of Clearances
Minimum recommended side clearances to non-
combustible surfaces 125 mm (5”).
Connecting Flue Pipe - Clearances
Single wall connecting fluepipes can reach extremely
high temperatures; therefore, clearances from the con-
necting fluepipe (chimney connector) must comply with
the requirements of Part J of Building Regulations 2000
(Combustion Appliances and Fuel Storage Systems).
This can be achieved by following the recommenda-
tions of Approved Document ‘J’. These are as shown in
Figure 14.
Minimum recommended rear clearance to noncom-
bustible surfaces 50 mm (2”).
NOTE: The minimum thickness of solid noncombustible
materials is specified in section 2 of Document ‘J’, in
relation to the clearance of the appliance from the sur-
face. As a general rule, the thickness of solid noncom-
at least
3 x D
at least
1.5 x D
D
at least 3 x D
D
at least
1.5 x D
Fluepipe
at least
1.5 x D
at least
1.5 x D
Air space of at least 12 mm
between noncombustible shield
and combustible material
Plan Without
Shield
at least 1.5
x D
Elevation
Without
Shield
Plan With
Shield
Elevation
With Shield
ST911
Fig. 14 Connecting fluepipe clearances.
10
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
Assembly
Your convection heater requires some assembly.
Bottom Heat Shield
Follow the directions carefully and refer to the parts
diagram at the back of this manual.
Unpack the Parts
Remove the bottom heat shield strapped to the top of
the stove and all loose parts from the firebox and the
ash pan. Check to make sure all the parts are included
and intact. You should have received:
• 1 fully assembled heater body
• 1 bottom heat shield*
• 4 legs
• 1 ash pan
• 1 ceramic handle assembly
• 1 hardware bag, containing the following parts:
• (3) #10 x 1/2” sheet metal screws, (to attach the
chimney connector to the flue collar)
• (1) 1/8” Allen wrench, (to tighten the door latch)
• (1) 5/32” Allen wrench, (to tighten the damper
handle)
ST813
Fig. 15 Remove bands holding stove to pallet and remove
heat shield from to of stove.
• (4) washers, (used with the leg bolts to attach
legs to the stove)
• (1) door handle insert holder (for storing the ce-
ramic handle assembly when it is not in use.)
• (4) 1/4-20 x 1” hex head screws, (to attach legs)
If any parts are missing or damaged, immediately notify
your Dutchwest dealer for replacements. Do not install
your stove without having all necessary parts or using
damaged parts.
Leg
Bolt
* A Bottom Heat Shield is required in many instal-
lations. Refer to the floor protection information
found in the Installation Section of this manual.
Attach the Legs and Heat Shield
NOTE: To avoid damaging the sheet metal compo-
nents, do not place the stove on its back to install the
legs. Follow the instructions below.
Handle Insert
Holder
ST814
1. Remove the band that holds the stove to the pallet
and remove the bottom heat shield that was posi-
tioned on top of the stove. (Fig. 15)
2. Rotate the stove counterclockwise until the front left
corner overhangs the pallet and the leg-mounting
hole is accessible. (Fig. 16)
3. Remove and discard the (4) 1/4-20 x 3/8” hex head
bolts that are in the leg holes on the bottom of the
stove.
Fig. 16 Rotate stove on pallet to expose front left corner.
4. In the hardware bag, locate the four legs, the door
handle insert holder, (on this leg only, the door
handle insert holder is used along with a washer),
(4) 1/4-20 x 1” leg bolts and four (4) washers.
5. Place the bolt through a washer and then the door
handle insert holder and align the leg with the bolt
hole in the bottom of the stove. Tighten securely.
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6. Reposition the stove so the other front corner over-
hangs the pallet and remove the leg bolt from the
bottom of the stove. Align the leg with the bolt hole
in the bottom of the stove, and attach it with the bolt
and washer. Tighten securely.
7. Reposition the stove so the first rear leg can be at-
tached. Attach the leg using the procedure described
in Step 6. (Fig. 17)
Fan Kit Installation
1. Secure the fan assembly to the inner back with two
(2) 1/4-20 x 3/4” hex head screws and one (1) 1/4”
star washer as shown in Figure 18.
2. Attach snapstat to the mounting holes on the un-
derside of the bottom with two (2) 1/4-20 pan head
screws.
3. Attach the rheostat to the door handle insert holder
near the front left leg. Insert the rheostat control
shaft through the handle holder hole. Install the
retaining ring and rheostat knob onto the shaft.
8. Reposition the stove so the remaining leg can be
attached. Attach it using the procedure described in
Step 6. Remove the pallet from beneath the stove.
9. Remove the (4) 1/4-20 x 3/8” hex head bolts from
the mounting bosses and attach the bottom heat
shield using the same bolts.
4. Place cables where they won’t be harmed by traffic.
5. Fan will not operate until stove reaches approxi-
mately 43° C (109° F).
Carefully move the stove to its final position. One way
to lessen the effort of moving the stove over smooth
flooring is to slide it on a piece of inverted carpet. Move
it slowly to ensure the floor is not scratched.
Retighten all leg fastening hardware.
Rheostat
Knob
Pan
Snapstat
Head
Screws
Rheostat
ST813
Fig. 18 Fan installation.
ST816
Fig. 17 Reposition stove so one rear leg can be attached.
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
Operation
Heater Controls and Features
Air Control
The Dutchwest Convection Heater Model 2478CE has
a control that regulates the amount of air drawn into the
stove. Generally, more air entering the stove allows the
fire to burn hotter and faster, while less air decreases
heat output and prolongs the overall burn time.
The Air Control Lever is located at the lower front
edge of the left side (looking from the front of the
stove). (Fig. 19) The lever operates two internal shut-
ters. Opening the inlet shutters provides air for primary
combustion.
Primary Air
Control Lever
ST811
Fig. 20 Turn primary air control lever clockwise to open.
Damper
Side Loading
Door
Primary
Air Control
Lever
ST812
Front Loading Door
ST810
Fig. 21 Turn primary air control lever counterclockwise to
close.
Fig. 19 The heater controls.
To open the shutters, turn the lever clockwise. The
shutters are all the way open when the lever points to-
ward the rear at a “9:00” position. (Fig. 20) To close the
shutters, turn the lever counterclockwise. The shutters
are fully closed when the lever points straight down.
(Fig. 21)
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Damper Function
Successful Wood Burning
The Damper is operated by moving the handle on
the upper left side of the stove. (Fig. 22) It has two
positions: OPEN, to start the fire and load fuel, and
CLOSED, for greatest efficiency and heat. When the
damper is closed, exhaust gases travel through a
secondary combustion chamber at the rear of the stove
before flowing into the chimney.
Woodburning is often said to be more of an art than a
science. You’ll easily master the art if you start by using
good, dry fuel and by understanding how the stove’s air
supply system operates.
Burn Only High-Quality Fuel
Your heater is designed to burn natural wood only. Do
not burn other fuels. Never burn pressure-treated wood,
painted or stained wood, or glossy newsprint.
Use the door insert handle to rotate the damper handle.
Turn it counterclockwise to open the damper and clock-
wise to close it. You will feel resistance as the damper
mechanism engages into the open (counterclockwise)
position.
High efficiencies and low emissions are only possible
when burning air-dried, seasoned woods. Avoid burning
“green” wood that has not been properly seasoned.
The best hardwood fuels include oak, maple, beech,
ash, and hickory that has been split, stacked, and
air-dried outside under cover for at least one year. If
hardwood is not available, tamarack, yellow pine, white
pine, Eastern red cedar, fir, and redwood are softwoods
that are commonly burned. They too should be prop-
erly dried. The length of the wood should be the same
as that specified for your particular stove. Avoid using
wood that has been dried more than two years. Often
gray in color, this wood burns very quickly, resulting in
short burn time and dimin-
The stove damper must be open when you start a
fire, load fuel, or before you open either door for
any reason.
Load Doors
A Side Loading Door allows the easiest loading of
wood logs. The Front Door opens for adding an occa-
sional log to the fire. Always be sure to open the stove
damper before opening either door.
ished stove performance.
If you must burn it, mix it in
with greener wood to slow
the burn.
Open
Closed
Door Insert Handle
Store your firewood under
cover to keep it dry. Even
for short-term storage, keep
wood outside of the heater’s
installation clearances and
outside of the space around
the heater required for refu-
eling and ash removal.
ST804
Fig. 22 Damper operating positions.
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
Use the Air Control Settings
that Work Best for You
No single control setting will fit every situation. Each
installation will differ depending on the quality of the
fuel, the amount of heat desired, and how long you wish
the fire to burn.
High
Medium
Control settings also depend on your particular instal-
lation’s “draft,” or the force that moves air from the
stove up through the chimney. Draft is affected by such
things as the height, type, and location of the chimney,
local geography, nearby obstructions, and other factors.
Low
Closed
Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in
the stove. On the other hand, too little draft can cause
backpuffing into the room and/or insufficient heat.
ST817
Fig. 23 Position the primary air control lever for different burn
rates.
How do you know if your draft is excessively high or
low? Symptoms of too much draft include an uncon-
trollable burn or a part of the stove or chimney con-
nector glowing-red. Inadequate draft may is indicated
by smoke leaking into the room through the stove or
chimney connector joints.
DO NOT OPERATE THE STOVE WITH THE ASH
DOOR OPEN. OPERATION WITH THE ASH DOOR
OPEN CAN CAUSE AN OVERFIRING CONDITION
TO OCCUR. OVERFIRING THE STOVE IS DANGER-
OUS AND CAN RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE,
INJURY, OR LOSS OF LIFE.
When first using the stove, keep a record of the results
you achieve from different control settings. You will
find that specific settings will give you a fixed amount
of heat. It may take a week or two to determine the
amount of heat and the length of burn you should ex-
pect from various control settings.
How to Build and Maintain a Wood Fire
Loading Wood
You can load wood into your Dutchwest Convection
Heater through either the front or side doors. Front
loading is useful for kindling a new fire and adding an
occasional log; however, we recommend side-loading
as most convenient when adding several logs at a time.
Always be certain that the stove damper is open before
opening either door.
Notice that changes in the weather have a strong effect
on chimney draft. Higher outdoor temperatures and
lower air pressure both weaken draft; lower tempera-
tures and higher air pressure encourage a stronger
draft. An exception to this is in installations with outdoor
chimneys; since these lose heat to the outdoors, it
takes longer to warm them up initially, and it takes more
heat to keep them warm, especially when temperatures
are very low outdoors.
WARNING: OPERATE YOUR DUTCHWEST CON-
VECTION HEATER ONLY WITH THE DOORS FULLY
CLOSED EXCEPT WHEN REFUELING.
THIS STOVE IS HOT WHILE IN OPERATION! KEEP
CHILDREN, CLOTHING, AND FURNITURE AWAY.
CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS.
Most installations do not require a large amount of
combustion air, especially if adequate draft is available.
Do not attempt to increase the firing rate of your heater
by altering the air control adjustment range outlined in
these directions.
Break-in Fires
If your stove is new or has new cast iron replacement
parts, “season” the new cast iron with a few break-in
fires. Follow Steps 1-3 below. Then let the fire burn
out. Do not close the damper. Maintain a small but not
smoky fire by adjusting the air control. After the break-
in fires, continue with Step 4.
In some newer homes that are well insulated and
weather-tight, poor draft may result from insufficient
air in the house. In such instances, an open window
near the stove on the windward side of the house (side
against which the wind is blowing) will provide the fresh
air needed. Another solution is to equip the stove with
an Outside Air Kit, available from your local dealer.
The stove’s paint and cement will emit a slight odor
as these materials cure during the first few fires. You
may wish to provide extra ventilation near the stove by
partially opening a door or window until the odor disap-
pears
Use the air control settings indicated in Figure 23 as
a starting point to help determine the best settings for
your installation.
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
You’ll soon find that this stove is HOT WHILE IN OPER-
ATION! KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING, AND FURNI-
TURE AWAY. CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS.
Lighting the Fire
Step 1. Open the stove damper. Open the primary air
control fully.
DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. Overfiring may
cause a house fire, or can result in permanent damage
to the stove. If a part of the stove or the chimney con-
nector glows, you are overfiring.
Step 2. Lay some crumpled newspapers in the stove.
Place six or eight finger-width size pieces of dry kin-
dling on the paper. On the kindling, lay two or three
larger sticks of split dry wood approximately 25-51 mm
(1-2”) thick.
Reloading and Reviving the Fire
DO NOT USE CHEMICALS OR FLUIDS TO START
THE FIRE. DO NOT BURN GARBAGE OR FLAM-
MABLE FLUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPTHA, OR
ENGINE OIL.
Reload your stove while it is still hot and there are
plenty of embers to re-kindle the fire quickly. Include
some smaller pieces of wood in the new load of fuel to
help the stove regain high temperatures quickly.
Also, never use gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene,
charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liquids to start or
“freshen up” a fire in this heater. Keep all such liquids
well away from the heater while it is in use.
NOTE: Door handles can be hot. A glove has been in-
cluded with your stove. We recommend using this glove
whenever operating door or damper controls.
Follow this procedure when you reload the stove:
Step 3. Light the newspaper and close the door. The
fire soon will be well-established and you may gradually
build it up by adding a few sticks at a time of a progres-
sively larger size. For your initial three or four break-in
fires, let the fire burn brightly for a short time, then let it
die out.
NOTE: An especially large, outdoor, or cold chimney
may need to be “primed,” or warmed up, before it will
draw sufficiently to start a fire. If this is the case, roll up
a couple pieces of newspaper, place them on top of the
kindling and toward the back of the stove, light them,
and close the doors. This should heat the chimney
enough to initiate a draft.
• Open the damper and move the primary air lever to
the “HIGH” position.
• Open the front door and check the ash level on the
grates and in the ash pan. Clear excess ash from
the grates, particularly at the rear area. Level the
ember bed. Empty the ash pan if necessary.
• Replace the ash pan and close the front door.
• Load wood, smaller pieces first, and close the load-
ing door.
• Allow the stove to regain its “thermal momentum”
before closing the damper. This may take 15-20
minutes.
Once the draft is established, open the front door and
light the rest of the fuel from the bottom. Do not light
the main bed of fuel until the chimney begins draw-
ing. Repeat the procedure as often as necessary if the
initial attempt is unsuccessful.
• Close the damper and set the air control lever for the
desired heat output.
NOTE: If the charcoal bed is relatively thick and your
fuel is well-seasoned, it is possible to add fresh fuel
(smaller pieces first), close the door and damper, and
reset the air control within five minutes.
Step 4. Once the fire is burning steadily, continue
adding fuel until a thick bed has been established on
the grate. The bed should be about 51 mm (2”) deep
and should cover the throat opening into the secondary
combustion chamber that is located in the lower center
fireback.
Step 5. Once the ember bed is formed, prepare the
stove for high-efficiency operation. Load it with fuel, first
with smaller splits of wood and then larger ones.
Close the damper and set the air control lever to the
“HIGH” position. Operate the stove for 15-20 minutes at
this maximum air setting to guarantee the new load of
fuel has fully ignited. Once the fuel is burning steadily,
you may adjust the air supply to provide the desired
heat output. Refer back to the air control settings chart
on Page 20.
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
Safe Ash Handling
Remove Ashes Frequently
Ashes may contain hot coals and must be treated with
extreme care. Ashes should be placed outdoors in a
metal container with a tight-fitting lid. The closed con-
tainer of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible
floor or on the ground, well away from all combustible
materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are dis-
posed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed,
keep them in the closed container until all cinders have
thoroughly cooled. NOTE: It may take days for these
coals to stop burning. Wood ash may be used as a
garden fertilizer.
Wear heavy stove gloves when removing ashes. Check
the ash compartment before reloading the stove. If the
ash pan is nearly full, empty the pan. Before replacing
the ash pan, clear away any ash that may have spilled
over the sides and back of the pan.
Empty the ash drawer regularly - typically every one
to three days. The frequency will vary depending on
what kind of wood you use and how hot you run your
stove—the hotter the fire, the more wood you burn, and
the faster ash will accumulate.
CAUTION: Never use a vacuum cleaner to remove
ash from the stove; always remove and dispose of the
ashes properly.
ST805
Fig. 24 Check the ash compartment before reloading the
stove.
ST438
Fig. 25 Hot ashes can be dangerous and must be stored
outdoors on a noncombustible surface in a metal container
with a tight-fitting lid.
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
Maintenance
Below you will find important informaiton on general
care, inspection and maintenance of your Dutchwest
stove. Should it become necessary, use only replace-
ment parts recommended by your authorized dealer.
Small Locking
Nut
Large Lock-
ing Nut
Pawl
Striker
Screw
Keep Your Stove Looking New
And Working Its Best
Care of the Cast Iron Surface
Door
An occasional dusting with a dry rag will keep the
painted cast iron of your Dutchwest Convection Heater
looking new.
If the paint needs retouching, allow the stove to cool
completely. Wire-brush areas needing to be painted.
Remove non-painted components such as air controls
or cover them with masking tape. Touch up the stove
with high temperature stove paint available from your
local dealer. Apply the paint sparingly. Two light coats
are better than one heavy one.
ST806
Fig. 26 Door latch adjustment.
Test and Repair the Door Gaskets
Air leaks can be caused by low spots in the door gas-
kets. To locate such low spots, close each door on a
slip of paper and attempt to pull the paper free. If the
paper slips out without tearing, the gasket isn’t snug
enough at that spot.
Cleaning the Glass
You will find that most of the carbon deposits on the
glass will burn off regularly during hot fires. You can
wipe fly ash from the glass when hot using a crumpled
piece of dry newspaper. Never use liquid cleaning
agents on hot glass. If you wish to clean the glass
more thoroughly, follow this procedure:
If the seal cannot be improved by adjusting the door
latch, try shimming the gasket. Pack a small quantity of
cement or a smaller diameter gasket into the channel
beneath the gasket to lift the main gasket and thereby
improve its contact with the door frame.
• Be sure the glass is completely cool.
• Use a glass cleaner especially made for this pur-
pose.
If shimming does not improve the seal, replace the
gasket following these steps:
• Dry the glass completely.
1. Remove the original gasket by grasping an end and
pulling firmly.
Adjust the Door Latch
2. Wearing safety goggles, use a wire brush or the tip
of a screwdriver to clean the channel of any remain-
ing cement or bits of gasket.
The door latches must close tightly to ensure a good
seal between the each door and the stove plates. With
time and use, the door latches will require periodic
adjustment. Follow this procedure: (Fig. 26)
Remove the old gasket by
pulling gently, but firmly.
1. Loosen the small locking nut with an open end
wrench.
2. Use the allen wrench (included with the stove) to
turn the striker screw clockwise one quarter-turn
and close the door to test the engagement. The
door latch should engage tightly when closed. Make
further adjustments in small increments.
3. When the striker screw is properly adjusted, tighten
the small locking nut against the pawl without allow-
ing the striker screw to turn.
ST440
Fig. 27 Door gasket.
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3. Apply a thin bead of stove cement in the newly-
cleaned groove.
4. Lay the gasket into the groove. Wait until you are a
couple inches from the end before you cut it.
5. Test the gasket by closing the door on a slip of paper
as described above. Adjust the gasket in any areas
where an inadequate seal is evident.
Adjusting Bolt
(on underside)
Front of
Stove
All rope-type gasketing used in the Dutchwest Convec-
tion Heater is made of fiberglass. The gasket is 3/8”
diameter for front and side doors and the ash door and
3/8” for the top plate. 3/16” gasket is used behind the
glass.
Lock Nut
Anchor Bolt
Damper Rod
Avoid Damaging the Glass Door Panel
ST441
Do not abuse the glass by slamming the door or striking
the glass with a log. Never operate your stove if it has
damaged or broken glass. If you need to replace the
glass, use only replacement glass provided by your lo-
cal Dutchwest dealer.
Fig. 28 Damper adjustment.
Over time, the air control may tighten or loosen. To
adjust the tension on the control, let the stove cool to
room temperature. Open the side-loading door and look
in toward the inner side of the front panel of the stove.
(Fig. 29) Locate the lower hex head bolts (A) on the pri-
mary air manifold rods on either side of the door. Adjust
with a 7/16” wrench.
Damper Adjustment
With time, you may need to adjust the damper link-
age to ensure that the damper plate seals tightly when
closed. Test the damper when the stove is cold. When
turned into the closed position, the damper should be
“snug” but not too tight. It will become a little tighter as
the stove heats up. Use a 7/16” socket wrench with
socket extension to adjust the linkage:
Note that the mechanism may tighten slightly as the
stove heats up. Your adjustment should leave the air
control snug, but not overly tight.
1. From inside the stove, first loosen and then remove
the two (2) nuts on the threaded rods that secure the
top plate to the inner top of the stove.
Air Manifold
2. Remove the top plate and open the damper.
3. Loosen the adjusting bolt’s lock nut. (Fig. 28)
Adjustment
Screw (A)
4. Loosen the anchor bolt’s lock nut, located on the
underside of the damper.
Air Con-
trol
5. Loosen the anchor bolt a turn or two.
6. Tighten the adjusting bolt.
7. Test the damper. Make further adjustments if neces-
sary.
ST808
Fig. 29 Primary air control adjustment.
8. When final adjustment has been made, tighten the
adjusting bolt lock nut, the anchor bolt, and the an-
chor bolt lock nut.
Primary Air Control Adjustment
Simple spring-loaded tabs maintain tension on the
primary air control lever. The air control should be loose
enough for you to easily set its position by hand, but
also snug enough to remain in that position until you
change it.
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Clean the chimney using a specially designed chimney
cleaning brush, the same size and shape as the flue
liner, attached to flexible fiberglass rods designed for
this purpose. Run the brush up and down the liner
so that any deposits fall to the bottom of the chimney
where they can be removed through the clean-out door.
Cleaning the Chimney System
The chimney system is composed of the chimney and
the pipe that connects the stove to the chimney. Inspect
the chimney and chimney connector at least twice
monthly, and clean if necessary.
When you first begin using the stove, check daily for
creosote — a substance that can look like either thick
tar or black, crisp flakes. Experience will show how
often you need to clean to be safe. The frequency
may even vary during the year. In the colder months
when the hottest fires producing the least creosote are
burned, you may need to clean only every couple of
months. During the warmer months when creosote is
more likely to result from cooler-burning fires, weekly
cleaning may be necessary.
Clean the chimney connector by disconnecting the sec-
tions, taking them outside, and removing any deposits
with a stiff wire brush. You can use a chimney brush of
correct size to clean chimney connector pipe. Reinstall
the connector sections after cleaning, being sure to
secure the individual sections with three sheet metal
screws per section.
If you are unable to inspect and/or clean the chimney
system yourself, contact your local Dutchwest dealer or
hire a qualified chimney sweep in your area to do the
job.
At the very least, inspect the chimney connector and
chimney at least once every two months during the
heating season to determine if a buildup of creosote
or soot has occurred. If a significant layer of creosote
has accumulated (3 mm [1/8”] or more), or if soot has
accumulated, either should be removed to reduce the
risk of a chimney fire. Failure to keep the chimney and
connector system clean can result in a serious chimney
fire.
Maintenance Schedule
The stove and chimney system should be inspected
and maintained by a qualified engineer and include the
following:
The Stove
DAILY:
The conditions for a chimney fire develop as follows:
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other
organic vapors which combine with expelled moisture
to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in
the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire.
As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue
lining. Creosote is flammable and, when ignited, makes
an extremely hot fire within the flue system which can
damage the chimney and overheat adjacent combus-
tible material.
• Clear any ash build-up from around the air holes and
combustion flow path in the lower fireback.
• Ashes should be removed before they reach the top
of the ash pan. Check accumulation at least once a
day.
• Keep the area around the stove clear of any com-
bustible materials such as wood, furniture or cloth-
ing.
TWO MONTHS:
• Check door handle to be sure it is working properly.
Gasketing becomes compressed after a period of
time. Adjust handle tightness if necessary.
To reduce the amount of creosote that may form, re-
member to provide adequate air for combustion and to
strive for small, intense fires rather than large, smolder-
ing ones.
• Check leg bolts and heat shield screws; tighten if
necessary.
You can never be too safe. Contact your local fire
authority for information on what to do in the event of
a chimney fire, and have a clearly understood plan on
how to handle one.
ANNUAL SPRING CLEANING:
• Check gasketing for wear, and replace if necessary.
• Remove ashes from the ash pan and replace with a
moisture absorbing material (such as kitty litter) to
keep the interior of the stove dry.
Inspect Regularly, Clean As Required
Inspect the chimney and chimney connector twice
monthly and clean if necessary. Let the stove cool
completely before you inspect the chimney. Use a flash-
light and mirror to sight up the flue through the chimney
clean-out door or chimney connector inspection tee. If
no inspection access is available, disconnect the pipe
from the stove.
• Clean the dust from the inner sides of bottom, rear or
pipe heat shields if your stove is equipped with them.
Clean surfaces are better heat reflectors than dirty
surfaces.
• Touch up the black paint.
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
• Inspect for and remove ash build-up behind the com-
bustion package. This should be done in conjunction
with annual cleaning of the chimney connector since
this inspection is most conveniently done through the
flue collar opening. Inspect the passages to either
side of the combustion package (a mirror will be
helpful) and vacuum away ash using a flexible vacu-
um hose inserted into each passage. Care should be
taken not to damage the white fibrous material in this
rear chamber. (Fig. 32)
The Chimney Connector
TWO WEEKS:
• Inspect the chimney connector and chimney. Clean if
necessary.
TWO MONTHS:
• Inspect the chimney and chimney connector. Pay
particular attention to the horizontal runs of chimney
connector, and the elbows. Clean the system if nec-
essary.
Inspect and
Vacuum Both
Rear Corners
ANNUAL SPRING CLEANING:
Ash Build-Up
ST876
• Disassemble the chimney connector and take it
outdoors for inspection and cleaning. Replace weak
sections of connector.
Fig. 30 Inspect and clean out ash accumulation on either
side of the non-catalytic combustion system.
• Inspect the chimney for signs of deterioration. Re-
pairs to a masonry chimney should be made by a
professional mason. Replace damaged sections of
prefabricated chimney. Your local Dutchwest dealer
or a chimney sweep can help determine when re-
placement is necessary.
• Thoroughly clean the chimney.
Draft Management
Your stove is only one part of a system that includes
the chimney, the operator, the fuel, and the home. The
other parts of the system will affect how well the stove
works. When there is a good match between all the
parts, the system works well.
gases warm all the way outdoors. The characteristics
of your chimney - whether it is steel or masonry, interior
or exterior, matched or mismatched to the stove outlet,
- determine how quickly it will warm up and how well
it will sustain the optimum temperatures necessary to
maintain strong draft and efficient combustion. Here fol-
lows a description of various flue system characteristics
and the related effects on stove performance.
Wood stove operation depends on natural (unforced)
draft. Natural draft occurs when exhaust gas is hotter
(and therefore lighter) than the outdoor air at the top of
the chimney. The greater the temperature difference,
the stronger the draft. As the hot exhaust gas rises out
of the chimney, it generates suction that draws air into
the stove for combustion. A slow, lazy fire when the
stove’s air inlets are fully open indicates a weak draft.
A brisk fire, supported only by air entering the stove
through the air inlets, indicates a good draft. The inlets
are passive; they regulate how much air can enter the
stove, but they don’t force air into it.
Masonry Chimney
Although masonry is the traditional material used for
chimney construction, it can have distinct performance
disadvantages when used to vent a controlled-combus-
tion woodstove. Masonry forms an effective ‘heat sink’
- that is, it absorbs and holds heat for long periods of
time.
The large mass, however, may take a long time to
become hot enough to sustain a strong draft. The
larger the chimney (in total mass), the longer it will take
to warm up. Cold masonry will actually cool exhaust
gases enough to diminish draft strength. This problem
The efficiency of a modern woodburning appliance,
(in which the amount of air available for combustion is
regulated), depends on the chimney to keep exhaust
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
stove through a completely straight chimney. Use this
layout if at all possible as it will promote optimum stove
performance and simplify maintenance.
is worse if the chimney is located outside the home or
if the chimney flue has a cross-sectional volume much
larger than the stove outlet.
If the stovepipe must elbow to enter a chimney, locate
the elbow about midway between the stove top and
the chimney thimble. This configuration lets the smoke
speed up before it must turn, keeps some pipe in the
room for heat transfer, and allows long-term flexibility
for installing a different appliance without relocating the
thimble.
Steel Chimney
Most factory-made ‘Class A’ steel chimneys have a
layer of insulation around the inner flue. This insulation
keeps the smoke warm and protects the surrounding
structure from the high flue temperatures. Because the
insulation is less dense than masonry, the inner steel
liner warms up more quickly than a masonry chimney;
this makes the steel chimney support a good draft more
quickly than masonry does. Steel chimneys are not as
attractive as masonry, but they are very durable and
generally outperform masonry.
There should be no more than eight feet of single-wall
stove pipe between the stove and a chimney. Longer
runs can cool the smoke enough to cause draft and cre-
osote problems. Use double-wall stove pipe for longer
runs.
Indoor/ Outdoor Location
Single Venting
Because the chimney’s function is to keep the smoke
warm, it is best to locate it inside the house. This loca-
tion uses the house as insulation for the flue and allows
some radiant heat release from the flue into the home.
Since an interior chimney doesn’t continuously lose its
heat to the outdoors, less heat from the stove is re-
quired to get it warm and keep it warm.
Your stove requires a dedicated flue. Do not connect
the stove to a flue used by any other appliance. Chim-
ney draft is a natural form of energy and follows the
path of least resistance. If the stove is vented to a flue
that also serves an open fireplace or another appliance,
the draft will also pull air in through those avenues.
The additional air flow will lower flue temperatures,
reduce draft strength and promote creosote develop-
ment; overall stove performance will suffer. The effect
is similar to that of a vacuum cleaner with a hole in the
hose. In some extreme instances, the other appliance
can even impose a negative draft and result in a dan-
gerous draft reversal.
Flue Sizing
The flue size for a controlled-combustion appliance
should be based on the cross-sectional volume of the
stove flue outlet. In this case, more is definitely not bet-
ter. Hot gases lose heat through expansion; if a stove
with a six-inch flue collar (181 sq cm [28 square inch]
area) is vented into a 254 x 254 mm (10” x 10”) flue, the
gases will expand to over three times their original vol-
ume. As gases cool with expansion, draft strength de-
creases. If an oversized flue is also outside the house,
the heat it absorbs will be conducted to the outdoor air
and the flue will remain relatively cool.
Fuel
Even the best stove installation will not perform well
with poor fuel. If available, always use hardwood that
has been air-dried (“seasoned”) 12-18 months. Soft-
wood burns more rapidly than hardwood and has a high
pitch content that can result in creosote. Decayed wood
of any type has little heat value and should not be used.
It is common for a masonry flue to be oversized for the
stove. Such a chimney can take quite a while to warm
up and the stove performance will likely be disappoint-
ing. The best solution to an oversize flue problem is
the installation of an insulated steel chimney liner of
the same diameter as the appliance flue outlet. The
liner keeps the exhaust gas warm and the result is a
stronger draft. An uninsulated liner is a second choice
- although the liner will keep the exhaust restricted to its
original volume, the air around the liner will require time
and heat energy to warm up.
Unseasoned (‘green’) wood has a high moisture con-
tent. Much of its heat value will be used to evaporate
moisture before the wood can burn. This significantly
reduces the amount of energy available to warm your
home, as well as the intensity of the fire and tempera-
ture of the exhaust gas. Incomplete combustion and
cool flue temperatures promote creosote formation and
weak draft.
You can judge the moisture content of wood by its ap-
pearance and weight or use a commercially available
moisture meter for an exact measurement. Unseasoned
wood will be a third heavier than dry wood. Also, look
for cracks (“checking”) in the ends of the log that result
from contraction as the wood dries. The longer and
wider the cracks are, the dryer the wood is.
Check your local codes. You may be required to install
a flue liner in any oversize or masonry flue.
Pipe & Chimney Layout
Every bend in the flue will act as a brake on the exhaust
as it flows from the firebox to the chimney cap. The
ideal pipe and chimney layout is straight up from the
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
Creosote
Negative Pressure
Creosote is a by-product of low-temperature stove
operation, weak draft, or both. It is a tar that results
when unburned gases condense inside the flue sys-
tem at temperatures below 143° C (290˚ F). Creosote
is volatile and can generate a chimney fire. All of the
installation characteristics that adversely affect chimney
draft also promote creosote condensation. Conse-
quently, you can minimize creosote accumulation with
an effective chimney design and the use of operational
techniques that encourage good draft and complete
combustion.
Good draft also depends on a sufficient supply of air
to the stove. The chimney can’t pull in more air than is
available to it. Sluggish draft can be caused by a house
that is tight enough to prevent the ready flow of air to
the stove, or by competition between the stove and
other appliances that vent indoor air to the outside; i.e.,
exhaust fans for range hoods, clothes dryers, bathroom
fans, etc.
If the chimney draws well when all such equipment is
turned off (or sealed, in the case of fireplaces and/or
other stoves), you need to be attentive in timing the use
of the other appliances. If you need to crack a nearby
window or door to enable the chimney to pull well, you
should install an outside-air intake to bring combustion
air into the room.
Inspect your chimney frequently and clean it whenever
accumulation exceeds 6 mm (1/4”).
Backpuffing
Backpuffing is a condition that results when the draft is
too weak to pull flue gases out of the chimney system
as fast as the fire generates them. Volatile gases build
up within the firebox until reaching a density and tem-
perature at which they ignite. With this ignition, you may
hear a muffled popping sound and see a bit of smoke
forced out of the stove.
In many cases, local or national codes require the
installation of permanently open air vents, particularly
with larger appliances (i.e. above 5 kW). Refer to these
codes to determine specific requirements for your
installation.
Conclusion
This condition is most likely to occur in the Spring or
Fall when moderate outdoor temperatures and low
intensity fires produce weak draft. If your stove back-
puffs, open the damper to let the smoke rise to the
flue more quickly. Also, open the air inlets to induce a
livelier fire and speed airflow through the stove. Avoid
large loads of firewood at one time. You should always
see lively, dancing flames in the firebox; a lazy, smoky
fire is inefficient and will promote draft problems.
Woodburning is more an art than a science. Art in-
cludes technique; and since installations, homes, and
fuel vary, the stove operator must also vary technique,
(mostly timing), to achieve satisfying results. Over time,
you will become familiar with the features of your par-
ticular installation; you will be able to identify cause and
effect in a variety of seasonal circumstances, and adapt
your operating habits to changing conditions.
Draft Testing
An easy way to determine whether your chimney draft
is strong enough is to close the stove damper, wait a
few minutes to let the airflow stabilize, and then test
whether you can vary the strength of the fire by swing-
ing the air control open and closed. Results here are
not instant; you may need to wait a few minutes for a
change in the air control setting to have an effect on
the fire. If there is no change, the draft is not yet strong
enough to let you close the damper. You will need to
open it for a while longer and manage the fire with the
air inlet until the draft strengthens.
Keep a record of your operating habits and relate them
to their effects on the stove’s function. You’ll be re-
warded with safe and efficient performance.
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
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48
45
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MHSC reserves the right to make changes in design, materials, specifications, prices and discontinue colors and products at any time, without
notice.
Dutchwest Convection Heater
Model 2478CE
Ref. Description
1. Bottom
2478CE
30002075
30002076
1203560
2. Inner Bottom
Primary Air to Inner Bottom Gasket (1/4” Rd Fiberglass)
3. Inner Back
30002077
30002082
30002083
30002205
30002100
4. Right Side
5. Left Side
6. Outside Air Bracket
7. Fountain Assembly
24
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
Dutchwest Convection Heater (continued)
Models 2478CE
Ref. Description
2478CE
30000986
30002101
30002286
30002102
30002212
30002272
30002209
30002213
30002222
30002735
30002080
30002203
7000954
8. Brick Support Bracket
9. Shoe Refractory
Shoe Gasket
10. Lower Fireback Refractory
11. Upper Fireback Refractory
12. Lower Retainer
13. Right End Insulation
14. Right End Refractory
15. Lower Load Door Refractory
16. Primary Air Flap Assembly
17. Inner Top
18. Fireback Retainer
19. Damper
20. Damper Adjuster
21. Damper Crank
7000950
7000951
22. Damper Operating Rod
23. Ash Door
30002274
30002091
30002204
30002085
1203589
24. Ash Lip
25. Front Door
Door Gasket (Front, Ash and Load Doors)
26. Load Door Insulation
30002210
27. Load Door Refractory (to June 2005)
Load Door Refractory II (replaces above)
30002214*
30002437
28. Ceramic Handle w/Lifter (Wood)
30002787
29. Load Door (to June 2005)
30002084*
30002439**
Load Door II (replaces above)
** When using to replace original door, use new refractory and load door insulation
30. Grate
30002092
5004265
30002079
7000969
1203591
30002226
7000G69
5004237
30002097
1203556
30002146
30002086
30002362
5004245
30002280
30002089
30002081
7001117
31. Damper Handle
32. Top
33. Flue Collar
Flue Collar Gasket
34. Outer Back
35. Ash Pan
36. Ashdoor Handle
37. Glass
Glass Gasket
38. Glass Clips
39. Leg
40. Pawl Assembly 3/4” Short Adjuster
41. Front & Side Door Handle
42. Bottom Heat Shield
43. Primar Air Manifold
44. Front
45. Andirons (2)
46. Bracket, Rheostat
47. Pawl Assembly 1” Long Adjuster
48. Refractory Cover
30002216
5004025
30004531
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater
26
30003850
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LIMITED LIFETIME Warranty
For Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Wood Stove
Limited Lifetime Warranty
5. Damage to the unit while in transit is not covered by
this warranty but is subject to a claim against the com-
mon carrier. Contact the Dutchwest Authorized Dealer
from whom you purchased your stove or MHSC if the
purchase was direct. (Do not operate the stove as
this may negate the ability to process the claim with
the carrier).
MHSC warrants that all refractory brick and material
used in this product will be warranted against
deterioration not resulting from physical damage or
overloading of the woodstove for the lifetime of this
product. This coverage includes the components of
the EverBurn System: “shoe, fountain, and fireback.
Coverage is provided only to the original purchaser.
6. Claims are not valid where the installation does not
conform to local building and fire codes or, in their ab-
sence, to the recommendations in our Owners Guide.
7. The salt air environment of coastal areas, or a high-
humidity environment, can be corrosive to the porce-
lain enamel finish. These conditions can cause rusting
of the cast iron beneath the porcelain enamel finish,
which will cause the porcelain enamel finish to flake
off. This warranty does not cover damage caused by
a salt air or high-humidity environment.
Limited 3 Year Warranty
All cast iron parts are warranted for a period of three
years against breakage, cracking or burn-through.
Limited 1 Year Warranty
The following parts of the woodburning stove are
warranted to be free of defects in material and work-
manship for a period of one year from the date you
receive it: The handles, glass door panels, door
gasketing and porcelain finish. Any of these items
found to be defective will be repaired or replaced at
no charge, upon the return of the part with postage
prepaid to a Dutchwest Authorized Dealer.
8. MHSC shall have no obligation to enhance or update
any unit once manufactured.
IN NO EVENT SHALL MHSC BE LIABLE FOR
INCIDENTAL AND CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES. ALL
IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED
WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS,
ARE LIMITED TO THE DURATION OF THIS WRITTEN
WARRANTY. THIS WARRANTY SUPERCEDES ALL
OTHER ORAL OR WRITTEN WARRANTIES.
Any parts repaired or replaced during the limited
warranty period will be warranted under the terms
of the limited warranty for a period not to exceed the
remaining term of the original limited warranty or six
(6) months, whichever is longer.
Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitations of
incidental and consequential damages or limitations on
how long an implied warranty lasts, so the above limi-
tations may not apply to you. This warranty gives you
specific rights and you may have other rights, which vary
from state to state.
Exclusions & Limitations
1. This warranty is non-transferable.
2. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove.
Misuse includes overfiring, which will result if the stove
is used in such a manner as to cause one or more
of the plates to glow red. Overfiring can be identified
later by warped plates and areas where the paint pig-
ment has burned off. Overfiring in enamel stoves is
identified by bubbling, cracking, chipping and discolor-
ation of the porcelain enamel finish. MHSC offers no
warranty on chipping of enamel surfaces. Inspect your
woodburning stove prior to accepting it for any dam-
age to the enamel.
3. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove as
described in the Owners Guide, nor does it cover a
stove which has been modified unless authorized by
a MHSC representative in writing. This warranty does
not cover damage to the stove caused by burning salt
saturated wood, chemically treated wood, or any fuel
not recommended in the Owners Guide.
How to Obtain Service
If a defect is noted within the warranty period, the
customer should contact a Dutchwest Authorized Dealer
or MHSC if the purchase was direct with the following
information:
1. Name, address, and telephone number of the pur-
chaser
2. Date of Purchase.
3. Serial number from the label on the back
4. Nature of the defect or damage.
5. Any relevant information or circumstances, e.g., instal-
lation, mode of operation when defect was noted.
A warranty claim will then start in process. MHSC re-
serves the right to withhold final approval of a warranty
claim pending a visual inspection of the defect by autho-
rized representatives.
4. This warranty does not cover a stove repaired by
someone other than a Dutchwest Authorized Dealer.
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MHSC
149 Cleveland Drive • Paris, Kentucky 40361
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