Russound Speaker In Ceiling speaker User Guide

Advantage  
T W I S T & T I L T  
OWNER’S MANUAL  
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Introduction  
LARGE HIGH-ENERGY MAGNETIC MOTOR  
SYSTEMS  
THE RUSSOUND ADVANTAGE  
Thank you for selecting Russound Advantage Series  
speakers. Like all Russound speakers, they combine  
acoustic technology with durability to provide years of  
listening enjoyment. The Advantage speaker line is com-  
posed of the Music and Hi-Fi Series.  
These powerful motors drive the woofer/midrange cone  
to reproduce sound. Their advanced Finite Element  
Analysis design means they are optimized to mate per-  
fectly with the glass fiber cones, delivering all the power  
needed with finesse and superior control. A dual vented  
design and large Kapton® voice coil ensure adequate  
power handling under the most demanding situations.  
The Music Series is designed to provide an optimum  
balance between performance and price, delivering  
superior sound for all applications at a most affordable  
cost. The Music Series is perfect for multi-room audio  
systems as well as surround sound applications, provid-  
ing exemplary reproduction throughout the home.  
SILK OR ALUMINUM DOME TWEETERS  
These fluid cooled devices utilize rare-earth Neodymium  
magnet assemblies and lightweight domes to reproduce  
every subtle nuance of the musical or cinema sound  
source. A computer-designed lens helps smooth their  
response and aids in delivering wide dispersion for  
excellent sound throughout the listening area.  
The Hi-Fi Series combines the finest components with  
our most advanced drivers to deliver exceptional per-  
formance in every application. From background music  
to spectacular surround sound, Hi-Fi Series speakers  
offer the finest sound around.  
COMPUTER DESIGNED ASYMMETRICAL  
CROSSOVERS  
Twist & Tilt™ technology allows Advantage ceiling speak-  
ers to deliver the best direct listening performance by  
modifying their dispersion angle 15 degrees, to focus  
sound on the prime listening area. For general back-  
ground sound delivery, Twist & Tilt speakers can be set  
for uniform dispersion, filling the room with excellent  
sound. This ability to focus the sound where you want it  
most provides increased location flexibility with height-  
ened fidelity. Better attention to aesthetic location is now  
possible, without compromising performance.  
The crossover is the traffic cop for the audio signal,  
dividing the lows from the highs and sending them off to  
the proper driver element. It also matches driver effi-  
ciencies and phase relationships to make sure that the  
different drivers work in unison. Advantage asymmetri-  
cal crossovers are very sophisticated designs, blending  
and matching the output of our proprietary drivers into a  
seamless and accurate sound field. Asymmetrical refers  
to the roll-off slope of the woofer/midrange being differ-  
ent from the roll-on slope of the tweeter. The result is  
both better driver integration and better time coherence  
in the speaker’s output. We also use high quality compo-  
nents to ensure long life and excellent unit-to-unit consis-  
tency.  
In addition to Twist & Tilt focused dispersion and tool-  
free mounting features, Russound Advantage speakers  
feature high quality drivers, sophisticated crossover net-  
works, and advanced designs to ensure optimum repro-  
duction in your home, no matter what the source mate-  
rial may be.  
HIGH FREQUENCY SWITCH  
This adjustment allows you to tailor the sound of  
Advantage speakers to better match the listening envi-  
ronment. The switch offers a flat response position (-)  
and a plus 3 dB position (+). It is located on the  
crossover network of Twist & Tilt models.  
WOVEN GLASS FIBER WOOFER/MIDRANGE  
CONE  
Our woven glass fiber cone employs the best of modern  
technology to deliver an optimum balance of perform-  
ance. Its superior transient response and light weight  
produce excellent low distortion voice reproduction and  
high efficiency. The result is exceptional sound from  
deep bass through the all-critical midrange frequencies.  
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3
Space Requirements & Impedance Matching  
loads. This may lead to greater distortion, and causes  
the receiver to run hot or activate its protection circuitry.  
SPACE AND WALL REQUIREMENTS  
SPACE REQUIREMENTS  
Russound Advantage Twist & Tilt speakers require at  
least 1.4 cubic feet of space behind the speaker for opti-  
mal performance.  
First, consult the owner’s manual for your amplifier or  
receiver. It should state the minimum speaker imped-  
ance during multiple speaker operation. The impedance  
may also be printed on the back of the amplifier/receiv-  
er next to the speaker connectors. If you can’t readily  
determine this information, consult the dealer where you  
purchased the amplifier or receiver, or call the manufac-  
turer of the product in question.  
WALL REQUIREMENTS  
ACCEPTABLE INSTALLATION SITUATIONS:  
* Wallboard/plaster ceilings - The dense, rigid nature of  
wallboard (or lath and plaster) acts as a superb  
speaker baffle.  
* Suspended ceiling – only if the ceiling tile is rein-  
forced with wood or particle board  
The impedance rating for your Russound Advantage  
Music Series speakers is 8 ohms, and 6 ohms for the  
Hi-Fi Series. Next, determine the impedance of your  
other speakers. It may be printed on the back of the  
speaker near the connection terminals, or you can con-  
sult the speaker’s owner’s manual. Speaker impedance  
must be equal to or higher than the amplifier/receiver  
speaker output impedance rating. For instance, an  
amplifier/receiver that is rated for two pair of 8 ohm  
speakers cannot support two pair of 4 ohm speakers.  
UNACCEPTABLE INSTALLATION SITUATIONS:  
* Brick or concrete ceiling where the wallboard or pan-  
eling is attached to thin furring strips – This type of  
ceiling can’t provide proper depth (clearance) for the  
back of the Russound Advantage speakers.  
* Locations concealing pipes, heating ducts and AC  
wiring - These elements can complicate speaker  
mounting and installation of speaker wire. AC wiring  
can induce hum caused by close proximity to the  
speaker.  
If the amplifier/receiver is not rated for the speaker con-  
figuration desired, external volume controls and/or  
speaker selectors can maintain the impedance levels  
that will allow your amplifier/receiver to operate safely.  
Russound makes a complete line of these products,  
from Impedance-Matching Volume Controls to  
IMPEDANCE MATCHING FOR AMPLIFIER AND  
SPEAKERS  
Impedance-Matching Speaker Selectors. Ask your  
Russound dealer for details or request a catalog from  
Russound at 800-638-8055 (U.S. and Canada) or  
+1-603-659-5170 from outside the U.S.  
Not all amplifiers or receivers can safely operate two  
sets of speakers at once. If you intend to run your  
Russound Advantage speakers and your main speakers  
concurrently, or if you intend to hook up and run two  
sets of speakers at the same time, it’s important to con-  
sider both the impedance of the speakers and the capa-  
bilities of the amplifier or receiver you’re using.  
A speaker’s impedance rating indicates the amount of  
electrical resistance it places against current flowing  
from a receiver’s outputs. If the total speaker load  
does not present adequate resistance, the receiver  
increases its power output. Low-impedance speakers  
may hamper operations of receivers not designed to  
deliver large amounts of current to low-impedance  
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4
Speaker Care  
TRANSIENTS  
SPEAKER CARE  
Transients are sudden uncontrolled signal changes that  
can seriously damage any speaker, including your  
Russound Advantage speakers. Transients may be  
caused by turning the system on or off while the volume  
is at a maximum level, or by disconnecting any hook-up  
cables while the system is on, creating a burst of low  
frequency hum. These conditions can cause serious  
speaker damage and should be avoided. As a general  
rule, always unplug the amplifier from the AC mains  
before connecting or disconnecting any signal or speak-  
er cable.  
Russound Advantage Series speakers are built with  
quality materials to last a lifetime. They should work for  
as long as you own your home and longer if you avoid  
the following:  
• Too little power at high volumes  
• Too much power  
• Transients (immediate loud passages, thumps, etc.)  
TOO LITTLE POWER AT HIGH VOLUMES  
Speakers can be damaged when they are driven by an  
amplifier/receiver that isn’t capable of delivering all the  
“clean power” that is being demanded. When an ampli-  
fier/receiver runs out of current due to high demand  
while trying to re-create musical peaks, it causes a type  
of output signal distortion called clipping. Clipping not  
only makes the music sound unclear, over time it can  
damage or destroy the speakers. If you’re listening at  
loud volumes you may be unaware that clipping is  
occurring, but the damage may already be done, as clip-  
ping damage can be instantaneous or cumulative. If you  
like your music loud, consider using an amplifier/receiv-  
er with at least 50 watts per channel but remember:  
you can damage any speaker with clipping, no matter  
how well it is built.  
Note: Russound does not guarantee its speakers against abuse,  
including too little power at high volumes and too much  
power. Damage from clipping or too much power is revealed  
simply by looking at the speaker’s voice coils. When used with  
care and common sense, your Russound speakers should pro-  
vide a lifetime of listening pleasure.  
TOO MUCH POWER  
There’s nothing wrong with driving your Russound  
Advantage speakers with as much power as they are  
rated for. The extra power helps them provide full, rich  
sound and excellent transient response. However, you  
should not be heavy-handed with the volume control. If  
the music begins to sound distorted in any way, back off  
the volume.  
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5
Getting Started & WHO – Installer Skills and Tools  
There are several related factors that must be considered before the installation of your Russound Advantage speakers:  
WHO:  
Who is doing the installation, the homeowner, or a professional installer?  
WHAT:  
WHEN:  
What is the installation environment and the intended use (serious listening or background)?  
When will the installation be performed – during pre-construction or retrofit in an existing  
home?  
WHERE: Where is the best speaker location and where are the available speaker locations?  
WIRE:  
Wire should be what gauge and what length? Can the speaker wires be run to the intended  
location? Will there be any IR receivers mounted in any Iso-Mount speaker locations? If so,  
what are the wiring requirements?  
HOW:  
How are the speakers installed?  
Pencil  
WHO – INSTALLER SKILLS AND TOOLS REQUIRED  
This manual is designed to make your Advantage Series  
speakers as easy to install as they are to listen to. If  
you’ve had any home “do-it-yourself” experience, you  
should find installation of your new speakers a manage-  
able job. You should have a basic understanding of  
hand and power tool operations, a working knowledge of  
your audio system, and be able to operate a multimeter.  
Length of stiff wire about 3 feet long (a straightened  
wire coat hanger works well)  
Insulated staples for securing speaker wire  
1.5V AA battery  
Masking tape  
Paint and applicator for painting the grille and outer  
frame  
TOOLS NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION IN  
EXISTING WALLS:  
• Fiberglass screening (one square foot for each Twist  
& Tilt speaker only)We suggest you read through this  
manual first before proceeding with installation to  
familiarize yourself with the entire installation  
process. If you then decide that installing your  
Russound Advantage Series Speakers is beyond your  
skills, call your Russound dealer to arrange for pro-  
fessional installation. Be ready to tell your installer if  
the speakers will be used for direct listening or for  
background sound, and to discuss the desired speak-  
er locations.  
•Drill with a 1-inch flat bit  
•Drill bit 1/4” larger than the diameter of the speaker  
wire  
•Retractable utility knife, Roto Zip®, Dremel®, or key-  
hole saw  
• #2 Phillips-head screw driver to fit the screws for the  
integral swing-out mounting clamps  
• #1 Phillips-head screw driver to fit earthquake screw  
• Bubble level  
Note: For shipping, grilles are placed in protective card-  
board sleeves packed between the two loudspeaker  
assemblies. Use caution when unpacking as the card-  
board sleeves are also the cutout templates.  
• Pair of diagonal cutters or wire strippers  
• Stud finder  
Multimeter  
Cardboard mounting template (included with speakers)  
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6
WHAT – Speaker Usage and Environment  
WHAT - SPEAKER USAGE AND ENVIRONMENT  
Figure 1  
(0° angle) Uniform dispersion  
Before you decide where you want to install your  
Russound Advantage speakers, you’ll need to  
determine their intended use. Will you be sitting in  
one place listening to music or watching a movie,  
or will you be playing background music during  
domestic and social activities? Advantage speakers  
have been designed to be suitable for most listen-  
ing environments.  
Advantage Series Twist & Tilt speakers can be  
used for both serious listening and for background  
applications. The Twist & Tilt design allows these  
ceiling speakers to deliver the best serious listening  
performance by modifying their dispersion 15  
degrees to focus sound on the prime listening  
area. For background or surround sound delivery,  
the same Twist & Tilt speakers can be set for uni-  
form dispersion to fill a room with excellent sound.  
(15° angle) Focused dispersion  
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7
WHEN – Pre-Construction or Retrofit Installation  
Figure 2 New construction use of Rough-in  
Bracket  
Not for use with Retrofit applications  
WHEN - PRE-CONSTRUCTION OR RETROFIT  
INSTALLATION  
PRE-CONSTRUCTION INSTALLATION  
Built-in speaker installation is more convenient during  
home construction than after construction is completed.  
Speaker wire can be routed to the destination before the  
wallboard is installed, and possible hindrances such as  
AC wiring, plumbing, or ductwork can be easily located  
and avoided.  
Speaker rough-in brackets are used in the pre-construction  
phase of speaker installation during construction of new  
homes and additions. Russound offers Speaker Rough-In  
Brackets for the full line of Advantage speakers. These  
brackets are designed to provide drywall installers the cor-  
rect cut-out pattern for the speakers. The brackets have  
“wings” that are nailed/screwed/stapled onto the ceiling  
studs. Once the wallboard is installed, the opening is cut  
out and the speaker frame is inserted into the bracket.  
the mounting frame. Excess length can be removed  
during final assembly.  
• Any speaker installed in a ceiling should have a safety  
wire firmly tied between the back of the speaker assem-  
bly and the frame of the building. There is a marked  
location provided for this purpose on the back of all  
Advantage Twist & Tilt speakers. Use any strong insulat-  
ed wire and connect it to the speaker being careful not  
to let it interfere with the speaker’s operation. The other  
end should be firmly attached to the studs or flooring  
above using a hook, nail, or other reliable fastener.  
When installing the pre-construction bracket, note that  
there are holes molded into the bracket for speaker wire  
tie-off. This keeps the wire from getting lost later during  
the construction process. You can also tie the wire to  
the bezel/mounting assembly once it’s installed, using  
any of the rotating clamp towers.  
DURING NEW INSTALLATION, KEEP THE  
FOLLOWING TIPS IN MIND:  
• Use a small level to verify that the rough-in bracket is  
straight.  
• When installing the drywall, make sure the speaker  
cut-out hole doesn’t extend farther than 1/4” from  
the inside of the mounting frame. The flat rough-in  
brackets and wings are thin enough that they won’t  
interfere with wallboard installation.  
• If possible, run speaker wires after AC wiring is in  
place to avoid induced hum caused by close parallel  
proximity of the two types of wire.  
• After the wallboard is secured, install the speakers as  
described in the installation instructions in this manual.  
• If possible, run speaker wires after plumbing is in  
place; wire can bend, pipes cannot.  
• Secure speaker wires in place against a stud along  
vertical runs with insulated staples only, being careful  
not to pierce the wire insulation. Allow a bit of slack  
for expansion of building materials.  
RETROFIT INSTALLATION  
If you are installing Russound Advantage speakers in an  
existing home, you will need to be diligent in locating  
existing pipes, ductwork, and AC wiring before cutting  
any holes in the ceiling or walls. In many cases, these  
obstructions are indicated by wall outlets, switches,  
plumbing fixtures, radiators, etc.  
• Horizontal runs should be routed through holes  
drilled in studs at roughly equal heights.  
• The actual speakers should not be installed until the  
wallboard is in place. In the meantime, leave several  
feet of wire coiled up and secured to the back side of  
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8
WHERE – Speaker Placement  
It’s the whole point of having stereo instead of mono-  
phonic sound.  
WHERE - SPEAKER PLACEMENT  
Placement can make all the difference in how your  
Russound speaker system sounds. There are at least four  
related considerations that factor into the speaker layout:  
To achieve good stereo imaging, the speakers are best  
located 6 to 8 feet apart on the short wall of a rectangu-  
lar room, if the prime listening location is opposite the  
short wall. Optimally, tweeters should be located at ear  
level when the listener is seated. Ceiling mounted  
speakers are best located slightly forward of the listen-  
ing position with the tweeter aimed toward the listener.  
• The intended use: critical listening, home theater, or  
background music  
• The room’s physical characteristics: hard, reflective  
surfaces or soft, absorbent textures  
• The listening locations: a desired prime listening  
spot or a need for sound throughout the room  
HOME THEATER  
When setting up a home theater surround sound sys-  
tem, it’s preferable to use wall mount rather than ceiling  
speakers for the front three channels. The three front  
speakers should be at close to equal heights, at ear  
level when the listener is seated. The center channel  
speaker should be located above the TV screen aligned  
with the center of the screen, and the left and right  
speakers should be about 3 or 4 feet to either side of  
the screen. Left and right speakers placed too close  
together or too far apart dissipate the illusion of being  
“in the action” on the screen. (continued on next page)  
• The available locations: unobstructed wall and ceiling  
surfaces  
It may happen that the ideal or desired locations for the  
speakers may have to be modified for feasibility.  
STEREO IMAGING  
If your Russound In-wall Speakers are going to be your  
primary listening source in a room, you need to consid-  
er some other factors to insure proper imaging. The  
term “stereo imaging” refers to a speaker system’s abili-  
ty to project music so that it sounds like the performers  
are in a three-dimensional space between the speakers.  
General Disclaimers – All rooms have different sound characteristics. Speaker location, listening loca-  
tion, reflective and absorptive surfaces all have a dramatic impact on the sound you hear. The follow-  
ing are only general recommendations and should not be considered the best or only solutions.  
LEGEND:  
- Ceiling Speaker  
- Wall Speaker  
Figure 3-B  
Good for serious  
listening. Stereo pair  
Figure 3-A  
in-wall or in-ceiling.  
Six to 8 feet apart,  
on the long wall of a  
rectangular room,  
centered on the lis-  
tening area. In-wall  
speakers should be  
at ear height when  
seated, if possible.  
Best for serious listening.  
Stereo pair in-wall or in-  
ceiling. Six to 8 feet  
apart, on the short wall of  
a rectangular room, cen-  
tered on the listening  
area. In-wall speakers  
should be at ear height  
when seated, if possible.  
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9
WHERE – Speaker Placement  
For home theater, wall speakers for the front three chan-  
nels create the illusion that the sound is coming from  
the screen, which makes the viewing experience more  
involving and believable. When you use ceiling speakers  
for the front channels, the sound appears to come from  
above the screen which is less believable. However,  
excellent results are still possible if you follow certain  
guidelines for placing the ceiling speakers.  
For TV and movies, ceiling surround speakers should be  
placed directly to the sides or rear of the prime listening  
position, but be aimed away from the listener to reflect  
the output off the rear or side walls. This configuration  
is also suitable for a TV/movie and music mixed use.  
If the prime purpose of the surround system is to listen  
to music, the Iso-Mount wall speakers should be placed  
closer to ear level. Ceiling speakers should be aimed at  
the prime listening position.  
1. Place the front speakers close to the same plane as  
the front of the TV as possible.  
2. Tilt the tweeters so they aim at the prime listening  
position.  
3. Align the center channel speaker with the center of  
the screen, and place the left and right speakers no fur-  
ther than 4 feet from either side of the screen.  
SURROUND SOUND  
If the prime purpose of the surround system is to watch  
TV and movies, the surround speakers should be placed  
to produce a diffuse sound field. Iso-Mount wall speak-  
ers should be placed to the sides or rear of the prime  
listening location, located 24 inches or more above ear  
level when the listener is seated. If this speaker location  
is closer than 24 inches from the ceiling, mount the Iso-  
Mount speaker baffle upside down in the wall frame  
with the tweeter away from the ceiling.  
5
Figure 3-C  
Good for background  
listening. Stereo pair  
behind, above or to the  
sides of the main listen-  
ing area. Six to 8 feet  
apart, centered on the  
listening area. If in-wall  
speakers are at ear  
height when seated they  
will be more distracting  
because their high fre-  
quency response will be  
more prominent. The  
same is true for ceiling  
speakers located direct-  
ly over the listening  
4
4
Figure 3-D  
Surround sound –  
The multiple surround  
locations can all be  
made to work as long  
as the speakers are  
properly directed, as per  
the recommendations in  
these instructions.  
Numbers designate  
suggested locations for  
pairs.  
2
2
3
3
position as opposed to  
off to the side a bit.  
1
1
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10  
WHERE – Speaker Placement  
(0° angle) Uniform dispersion  
Figure 4  
Uniform: full sound dispersion  
The Advantage Twist & Tilt speaker  
design provides the option of either  
uniform or focused dispersion,  
ensuring that high quality sound fills  
the chosen listening area. This abili-  
ty to focus the sound where you  
need it most provides increased  
flexibility with heightened fidelity.  
After the frame is secured, the  
speaker/baffle portion installs with  
a simple twist. The Twist & Tilt tech-  
nology offers the option of tilting the  
driver/baffle assembly 15 degrees  
to focus the sound towards the cho-  
sen listening area or standard  
(15° angle) Focused dispersion  
mounting for uniform dispersion.  
Figure 5  
Uniform: full sound dispersion  
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11  
Wire – Wire Requirements  
& HOW – Painting the Speaker Frames and Grilles  
WIRE CONSIDERATIONS  
When purchasing speaker wire, you will need to select the  
proper gauge, determine the length, and choose the brand.  
HOW - PAINTING THE SPEAKER FRAMES AND  
GRILLES  
Russound in-wall speaker frames and grilles are pre-fin-  
ished with an off-white paint. You can choose to leave  
them as is or paint them with latex wall paint or aerosol  
spray paint to accent or blend with the wall or ceiling.  
Wire is measured in gauges: the higher the number, the  
thinner the wire. For example, 18-gauge wire is thinner  
than 14-gauge wire. The length of speaker wire you’ll  
need will vary with speaker placement. The gauge of  
wire you need is determined by the distance between  
your amplifier/receiver and the speakers. Use the fol-  
lowing chart as a guide:  
TO PAINT SPEAKERS THAT HAVE NOT BEEN  
ASSEMBLED OR INSTALLED:  
1
Separate and remove the speaker baffle from the  
frame and set it aside.  
Length  
Minimum Gauge  
10 to 100 ft.  
80 to 125 ft.  
Over 100 ft.  
16  
14  
12  
2
Remove the scrim cloth by gently separating it from  
the inside surface of the perforated grille, being careful to  
keep it clean. Store it before you begin painting.  
We recommend using Russound AW series speaker cable  
for amplifier-to-speaker connections, but any reputable brand  
of 16- to 12-gauge multi-stranded wiring is acceptable.  
3
Paint the outer speaker frame and grille separately.  
For the grille, Russound recommends a spray applica-  
tion using latex paint diluted 4 to 5:1 with water. If  
you’re using an aerosol spray paint, make sure that you  
achieve the same coverage on both grille and frame.  
Incorporating optional IR receivers in Iso-Mount models  
will require additional wire. Consult the selected IR  
receiver model’s manual for the specific wire needs.  
4
While the paint is still wet on the grille, and the  
Care must be taken to avoid obstacles when running wire. In  
general, you should pay particular attention to the following:  
grille is not in the frame, use a gentle burst of com-  
pressed air against the outside surface to clear the fine  
holes in the metal mesh.  
• Avoid locations concealing pipes, heating ducts, and  
AC wiring in the general vicinity.  
5
After the paint has thoroughly dried, re-install the  
speaker baffle inside the frame.  
• Avoid running speaker wires close to house electrical  
wiring for any distance. If you have to run them paral-  
lel, make sure to space the speaker wires at least  
two feet from the AC line. It is, however, permissible  
for speaker wires to cross paths with AC line or pass  
through the same hole together with house wiring if  
they separate before and after.  
6
Reattach the scrim cloth to the grille, starting from  
the edge and smoothing wrinkles as you go.  
• Make sure that the entire wire path between speak-  
ers and amplifier is clear and not obstructed by a  
floor or ceiling joist, or a masonry wall which can’t be  
drilled through. Confirm ahead of time that you can  
drill an outlet hole easily and in an unobtrusive spot  
to connect wires with the amplifier/receiver.  
• Label speaker wires at each end “left” or “right” and  
include room location. This simplifies speaker/receiv-  
er hook-up once the speakers are installed.  
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12  
HOW – Painting the Speaker Frames and Grilles  
TO PAINT SPEAKERS THAT HAVE BEEN  
ASSEMBLED AND INSTALLED:  
1
Remove the speaker grilles from the frames, being  
FRAME  
careful not to damage the paint. Use a small pointed  
object and start at the corner or edge of the grille.  
2
Remove the scrim cloth by gently separating it from  
the inside surface of the perforated grille, being careful to  
keep it clean. Store it before you begin painting.  
BAFFLE  
GRILLE  
3
Center the included black plastic paint shield over  
the speaker baffle and press into the frame.  
4
Paint the outer speaker frame and grille separately.  
For the grille, Russound recommends a spray applica-  
tion using latex paint diluted 4 to 5:1 with water. If  
you’re using an aerosol spray paint, make sure that you  
achieve the same coverage on both grille and frame.  
5
While the paint is still wet on the grille, and the  
Figure 6  
grille is not in the frame, use a gentle burst of com-  
pressed air against the outside surface to clear the fine  
holes in the metal mesh.  
SCRIM CLOTH  
6
After the paint has thoroughly dried, remove the  
paint shield from the frame and store for future use.  
The shield may be held in by a vacuum seal. Pull gently  
but firmly to slowly break the seal and remove.  
GRILLE  
7
Reattach the scrim cloth to the grille, starting from  
the edge and smoothing wrinkles as you go.  
Note: Speaker frames can become bonded to the wall  
or ceiling surface paint when they are painted after  
installation. Use care not to break the surface of the  
paint when replacing the grille or baffle in the frame.  
Figure 7  
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13  
HOW - Cutting Wall/Ceiling Opening for Speakers  
cal cable, water pipe, or heating duct in that vicinity of  
HOW - CUTTING WALL/CEILING OPENING FOR  
SPEAKER  
The following steps outline how to locate a section of  
wall between two studs, mark the outer boundaries of  
the hole, drill a small hole in the center to verify the  
location and then cut the main hole.  
wall), position the cardboard mounting template, and  
draw around its outer perimeter with a pencil. If you  
don’t trust your eye, use a level to make sure the hole  
will be straight.  
3
Drill a 1-inch hole in the center of the pencil out-  
line which you have just drawn, just deep enough to  
fully penetrate the wallboard.  
1
Determine the location of the studs so the speaker  
can be centered approximately between them. There are  
several ways to go about this:  
4
Obtain a length of stiff wire such as a straightened  
• Use a stud finder, a simple electronic device which  
works by locating changes in wall density. Many stud  
finders can also indicate the presence of live AC wiring.  
wire coat hanger. Bend it so that the last 6 or 8 inches  
is at a right angle to the rest.  
5
• Tap on the ceiling and listen to the resulting  
“THUMP.” When it’s deeper and hollow sounding,  
you’re between studs. When it’s sharper and more  
flat sounding, you’re close to or over a stud.  
Insert the angled part into the 1-inch hole you just  
drilled and probe to left and right to confirm that a stud  
is not too close on either side. Move the wire around in  
a circular motion to check clearances above and below  
the hole as well.  
• Identify studs by the position of electrical outlets or  
switches. There may be a stud directly to the left or right  
of such electrical fixture. This gives you a point of meas-  
urement since studs are either 24 or 16 inches on cen-  
ter in newer houses, 12 inches apart on older homes.  
• If there is a stud too close on one side, reposition the  
cardboard template a few inches in the opposite direc-  
tion, and re-draw your pencil outline, keeping the 1-inch  
hole within the pencil outline’s inner boundaries.  
2
When you’re reasonably sure of where the ceiling  
studs are (and are completely sure there isn’t an electri-  
STEP 2  
STEP 3  
STEP 5  
Probe with wire  
for stud  
STEP 6  
Trace template outline  
Drill 1-inch pilot hole  
Cut Speaker hole  
along outline  
clearance  
Figure 8  
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14  
HOW - Cutting Wall/Ceiling Openings for Speakers  
JUNCTION BOX INSTALLATION  
6
Carefully score the penciled outline of the template  
The following steps outline how to bring wires to the  
amplifier location. The speaker wires will be terminated  
in an outlet box attached to a stud (during construction),  
or a retrofit junction box or low-voltage mounting ring  
that clamps to the wallboard. You will cut a hole for the  
outlet box, run the wires through, and install the box.  
with a sharp utility knife to avoid chipping paint or tear-  
ing wallpaper. Then use a keyhole/drywall saw to cut  
along the scored line. Make sure you don’t make it any  
larger than the marked outline.  
• If you’re dealing with lath and plaster or thick panel-  
ing, you’ll need to use a different technique. Using a  
1-inch flat bit, drill holes at the inside corners of the  
pencil outline. Be careful not to drill beyond the out-  
line. Then use a fine-toothed keyhole saw or a hack-  
saw blade and with VERY slow strokes, saw through  
the surface.  
1
Determine the wire exit location on the wall. Identify  
the nearest stud using the stud finder techniques above.  
2
Using the outlet box as a template, trace a box just  
to the left or right of the nearest stud. Using the same  
1-inch drill bit as before, drill a 1-inch hole in the center  
of the pencil outline you have drawn.  
7
Temporarily place the speaker’s outer mounting  
frame into the cut-out to insure that it fits properly. It’s  
okay if the hole is slightly larger than the inner lip of the  
frame, as it will be covered by the frame’s outer bezel.  
Actual installation must wait until after you’ve routed the  
speaker wires.  
3
Insert a bent wire into the hole and probe to the  
left and right to determine installation clearance.  
4
Install the retrofit junction box and cover it with an out-  
let plate which has connections for the speaker wire termi-  
nations. For your convenience, a full line of Russound  
PlateMate™ connection systems such as the PlateMate  
BP10D is available from your Russound dealer.  
8
Repeat steps 1 through 7 for the other speaker.  
When installing speakers in an internal (non-insulated)  
ceiling, we recommend you place standard household  
fiberglass insulation (without a vapor barrier) within the  
wall cavity. This generally improves the sound produced  
by the speakers and slightly reduces the transmission of  
sound to the adjacent room. There may not be room to  
place insulation directly behind the woofer magnet, but  
you can fill the rest of the cavity, or as far as you can  
access.  
Figure 9  
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15  
HOW – Hooking up the Speakers  
AT THE SPEAKER END  
HOW – HOOKING UP SPEAKERS  
IDENTIFYING POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE  
(“+” AND “-”)  
Speaker wire consists of two conductors, and the wire  
should be manufactured so you can discriminate between  
the two. If your wire has transparent insulation, one con-  
ductor may be copper-colored and the other silver-colored.  
Generally, professionals denote the copper one as POSI-  
TIVE (+) and the silver one as NEGATIVE (-).  
1. Mount the speaker frame as shown in Figure 10 .  
Center and level the frame in the cut-out hole and tight-  
en the #2 Phillips screws until the clamps rotate and  
are drawn up snugly from behind, clamping the frame in  
place. Tighten each screw snugly but do not over tight-  
en.  
2. Cut off excess wire, leaving about 2 feet extending  
through the frame.  
3. Pull the speaker wire conductors apart so they’re sep-  
arated for the first two inches from their ends.  
If you’re using wire with an opaque insulation covering,  
there will be one of the following differentiating markings:  
4. Using a wire stripper, diagonal cutters, or a knife, care-  
fully remove 1/2 inch of insulation from each conductor.  
1. A series of ribs or grooves on one conductor  
2. A painted stripe or dotted line on one conductor  
3. A string interwoven in the wire strands of one conductor  
Figure 11  
By convention, the marked conductor is positive (+) for  
connection at both ends.  
NOTE: It is important that you label your wires “left”  
and “right” at both ends when you run them to elimi-  
nate confusion during the installation process.  
5. Twist the strands in each conductor into a tight spiral,  
as shown in Figure 10.  
6. Attach the speaker wires to the red and black speaker  
terminals. Press down on the binding posts while insert-  
ing the wire into the hole. Connect the POSITIVE (+)  
conductor to the RED terminal and the NEGATIVE (-)  
conductor to the BLACK speaker terminal for correct  
polarity.  
Ceiling Surface  
Speaker Cut-out  
Integral Swing-out  
clamps  
7. Make sure that no stray strands of wire are touching  
the other conductor.  
8. Repeat Steps 1 through 7 for the other speaker(s).  
Figure 12  
Figure 10  
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16  
HOW – Hooking up the Speakers  
CONNECT TO THE AMPLIFIER  
(NO WALL CONNECTOR PLATE)  
CONNECT TO THE AMPLIFIER  
(WALL CONNECTOR PLATE)  
1. Cut off excess wire, leaving enough to easily reach from  
the wall opening to your stereo system. If there’s a possi-  
bility that you may move the amplifier to another part of  
the room, consider leaving some excess wire coiled up.  
Coil wire into concentric circles and secure with a tie wrap  
or tape. If you’ve used sufficiently thick wire, this extra  
length will not affect speaker performance and could make  
re-routing easier if the room is rearranged later.  
1. Route wiring through an electrical outlet box, retrofit  
junction box, or low voltage mounting ring. Mount the  
box or ring to the drywall.  
2. Terminate the wires to a wall plate with binding posts  
(Russound PlateMate BP10D is suitable), attaching the  
POSITIVE (+) conductor to the RED terminal and the  
NEGATIVE (-) conductor to the BLACK terminal. Mount  
the wall plate to the outlet box.  
2. Pull the speaker wire conductors apart so they’re sep-  
arated for the last two inches from the end.  
3. Using the remaining speaker wire, cut two pieces  
long enough to reach from the wall plate to the back of  
the amplifier/receiver.  
3. Using wire strippers, diagonal cutters, or a knife, care-  
fully remove 1/2 inch of insulation from each conductor.  
4. IMPORTANT: Before connecting the speaker wires to the  
amplifier/receiver, use a multimeter to test the speaker  
wires for short circuits. If there is indication of a short in  
the wiring, it must be corrected before the speakers are  
connected to the amplifier/receiver. Failure to do so may  
result in damage to the stereo equipment.  
4. IMPORTANT: Before connecting the speaker wires to  
the amplifier/receiver, use a multimeter to test the  
speaker wires for short circuits. If there is indication of a  
short in the wiring, it must be corrected before the  
speakers are connected to the amplifier/receiver. Failure  
to do so may result in damage to the stereo equipment.  
5. Terminate wiring at both ends, from the  
5. Connect the POSITIVE (+) conductor to the RED ter-  
minal and the NEGATIVE (-) conductor to the BLACK  
speaker terminal of the amplifier/receiver. For proper  
sound, the “left” and “right” speaker wires must be  
connected to the corresponding “left” and “right” speak-  
er terminals on the amplifier/receiver.  
amplifier/receiver to the wall plate. Connect the POSITIVE  
(+) conductor to the RED terminal and the NEGATIVE (-)  
conductor to the BLACK speaker terminal of the amplifi-  
er/receiver. For proper sound, the “left” and “right” speak-  
er wires must be connected to the corresponding “left”  
and “right” speaker terminals on the amplifier/receiver.  
6. Repeat Steps 1 through 5 for the other speaker(s).  
Figure 13  
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17  
HOW – Final Assembly of Speakers  
2. Line up the tabs by sighting through the molded cut-  
outs in the baffle. Insert the tabs into the tab openings  
and firmly push the baffle up into the frame slots.  
HOW – FINAL ASSEMBLY OF SPEAKERS  
Up to this point in the installation process you have  
located and cut the hole, mounted the speaker frame,  
run the wires, and connected them to the speaker baffle  
and to the amplifier/receiver. Now you will mount the  
speaker into the frame and attach the grille.  
3. Twist the baffle clockwise until it locks into the slots.  
4. Secure the baffle to the frame with the small #1  
Phillips earthquake screw. The hole for the screw is  
located at the “lock” icon on the baffle edge. This  
ensures the baffle and frame will not separate. Do not  
overtighten the earthquake screw.  
We recommend protecting the back of any ceiling speaker  
from insulation and debris by draping a piece of standard  
fiberglass window screening over the back of the assem-  
bly. Screening is available at most home centers or hard-  
ware stores. Cut a piece larger than the speaker assem-  
bly and drape it over the bezel, up inside the ceiling,  
before you install the baffle assembly.  
5. Insert the speaker grille by placing it over the speaker  
baffle and aligning its edges in the frame. Press gently  
into place, taking care not to scratch the frame finish or  
bend the grille.  
The Twist & Tilt speaker series can be installed to pro-  
vide uniform dispersion (zero degree tilt) or focused dis-  
persion (15 degree tilt). The baffle installation will differ  
slightly for each application.  
FOR UNIFORM DISPERSION:  
If the speaker is being installed with no tilt, the arrow of  
the frame can be pointing in any direction. The speaker  
baffle is marked with a “0” for uniform dispersion and a  
“15” for focused dispersion.  
Alignment Arrow  
(15° angle) Focused dispersion  
1. Align the “0” with the arrow on the frame. Grasp the  
speaker baffle at the tweeter bridge, being careful not to  
come in contact with the tweeter itself.  
=
2. Line up the tabs by sighting through the molded cut-  
outs in the baffle. Insert the tabs into the tab openings  
and firmly push the baffle up into the frame slots.  
Earthquake Screw Mounting Hole  
FOR FOCUSED DISPERSION:  
If the speaker is being installed with the 15 degree tilt,  
the small arrow molded into the frame should be point-  
ing in the direction of the tilt. The speaker baffle is  
marked with a “0” for uniform dispersion and a “15” for  
focused dispersion.  
3. Twist the baffle clockwise until it locks into the slots.  
4. Secure the baffle to the frame with the small #1  
Phillips earthquake screw. The hole for the screw is  
located at the “lock” icon on the baffle edge. This  
ensures the baffle and frame will not separate.  
1. Align the “15” with the arrow on the frame. Grasp the  
speaker baffle at the tweeter bridge, being careful not to  
come in contact with the tweeter itself.  
5. Insert the speaker grille by placing it over the speaker  
baffle and aligning its edges in the frame. Press gently  
into place, taking care not to scratch the frame finish or  
bend the grille.  
Alignment Arrow  
(0° angle) Uniform dispersion  
HOW - TESTING SPEAKER POLARITY AND  
CHANNEL CONNECTIONS  
Before you put away all of your tools, it’s a good idea to test the  
speaker polarity and channel connections. It is helpful if you’ve  
labeled your wires to identify the left and right speakers.  
=
Earthquake Screw Mounting Hole  
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18  
HOW – Final Assembly of Speakers  
4. Make sure sound emanates from all speakers in the system.  
TO TEST POLARITY:  
Polarity refers to the positive (+) and negative (-) electrical  
elements of the speakers, wires, and connections. The test  
for polarity ensures that positive and negative wires and  
connections are not reversed. This test is performed with  
the speaker wires disconnected from the amplifier/receiver.  
5. Now rotate the stereo’s BALANCE control all the way to  
the LEFT. Sound should only come from the left speaker. If  
sound comes from the right speaker when the stereo’s bal-  
ance control is turned to the LEFT, you’ll need to swap the  
connections on the back of the amplifier/receiver.  
6. FIRST turn DOWN the VOLUME and turn OFF the AMPLIFIER!  
It is recommended that the wiring and speaker polarity  
be tested with a 1.5V AA battery. You’ll need one person  
at the speaker end and one person at the exit end of  
the speaker wire near the amplifier/receiver.  
7. Swap the wires attached to the left and right speaker ter-  
minals.  
8. Repeat steps 1 through 5.  
1. While one person observes the woofer cone (grille  
A QUICK TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE  
Before seeking service from your Russound dealer,  
please read through these troubleshooting tips for sim-  
ple remedies.  
NO SOUND FROM EITHER SPEAKER:  
1. Incorrect source selected on receiver or preamplifier  
2. Mute button pressed on receiver  
3. Wrong speaker output selected; many receivers have  
an “A” and “B” speaker switch  
4. In-Wall Volume control not turned up or wired incorrectly  
5. If using a speaker selector, room/station not turned  
on or improperly connected  
removed for better visibility), the other person momentarily  
energizes the wire at the amplifier end with the 1.5V AA  
battery (the positive conductor at the positive end, the neg-  
ative conductor at the negative end of the battery).  
6. Short circuit causing amplifier/receiver to power  
down or suffer damage  
7. Wire disconnected  
NO SOUND FROM ONE SPEAKER:  
1. Unsecured connection at either the speaker or ampli-  
fier/receiver  
2. If the woofer cone moves outwards when momentari-  
ly energized, the speaker is wired correctly. If the woofer  
cone moves inward, the polarity is reversed, and the  
wire’s positive and negative conductors must be  
switched on the back of the speaker.  
2. Balance control turned all the way left or right  
3. Bad connecting cable between sound source and amplifier  
4. Short circuit causing amplifier/receiver to power  
down or suffer damage  
TO TEST CHANNEL CONNECTIONS:  
1. Turn on your stereo system. Make sure that the VOL-  
UME control is turned down and that the BALANCE con-  
trol is set to center.  
For any other speaker performance issues, contact your  
Russound dealer or call our Tech Services department  
at 603-659-5170.  
2. Activate a musical source such as FM or CD player.  
3. Slowly turn up the volume. You should hear music com-  
ing out of your new Russound Speakers. (If you don’t, refer  
to the troubleshooting guide below.)  
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19  
Speaker Specifications  
Specifications  
Series: Single Point Stereo  
Model: SP-S5TT  
Description: Round In-ceiling 15° Twist & Tilt  
Cut-Out: 7.25” (18.4 cm)  
Woofer: 5.25” (13.3 cm) woven glass fiber dual  
voice coil  
Tweeter: Dual 14mm (0.56”) polycarbonate  
Recommended Power: 5 - 50 watts per channel  
Nominal Impedance: 8 Ohms  
Efficiency: 91 dB (1W @ 1M w/1kHz)  
Frequency Response: 60Hz - 20kHz +/- 3 dB  
Frame: ABS plastic  
Grille: Fine mesh aluminum  
Mounting: Bayonet-type with swing-out clamps  
Dimensions: 8.75” (22.2 cm) dia.  
Series: Single Point Stereo  
Model: SP-S6TT  
Description: Round In-ceiling 15° Twist & Tilt  
Cut-Out: 8.25” (20.9 cm)  
Woofer: 6.5” (16.5 cm) woven glass fiber dual  
voice coil  
Tweeter: Dual 14mm (0.56”) polycarbonate  
Recommended Power: 5 - 60 watts per channel  
Nominal Impedance: 8 Ohms  
Efficiency: 92 dB (1W @ 1M w/1kHz)  
Frequency Response: 55Hz - 20kHz +/- 3 dB  
Frame: ABS plastic  
Grille: Fine mesh aluminum  
Mounting: Bayonet-type with swing-out clamps  
Dimensions: 9.75” (24.7 cm) dia.  
Series: Music  
Model: SP-M5TT  
Description: Round In-ceiling 15° Twist & Tilt  
Cut-Out: 7.25” (18.4 cm)  
Woofer: 5.25” (13.3 cm) woven glass fiber  
Tweeter: 20mm (0.8”) silk dome, fluid cooled  
Recommended Power: 5 - 80 watts  
Nominal Impedance: 8 Ohms  
Efficiency: 88 dB (1W @ 1M w/1kHz)  
Frequency Response: 55Hz - 20kHz +/- 3 dB  
Frame: ABS plastic  
Grille: Fine mesh aluminum  
Mounting: Bayonet-type with swing-out clamps  
Dimensions: 8.75” (22.2 cm) dia.  
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20  
Specifications  
Series: Music  
Model: SP-M6TT  
Description: Round In-ceiling 15° Twist & Tilt  
Cut-Out: 8.25” (20.9 cm)  
Woofer: 6.5” (16.5 cm) woven glass fiber  
Tweeter: 20mm (0.8”) silk dome, fluid cooled  
Recommended Power: 5 - 100 watts  
Nominal Impedance: 8 Ohms  
Efficiency: 89 dB (1W @ 1M w/1kHz)  
Frequency Response: 50Hz - 20kHz +/- 3 dB  
Frame: ABS plastic  
Grille: Fine mesh aluminum  
Mounting: Bayonet-type with swing-out clamps  
Dimensions: 9.75” (24.7 cm) dia.  
Series: Music  
Model: SP-M8TT  
Description: Round In-ceiling 15° Twist & Tilt  
Cut-Out: 9.75” (24.7 cm)  
Woofer: 8.0” (20.3 cm) woven glass fiber  
Tweeter: 25mm (1.0”) silk dome, fluid cooled  
Recommended Power: 5 - 120 watts  
Nominal Impedance: 8 Ohms  
Efficiency: 90 dB (1W @ 1M w/1kHz)  
Frequency Response: 40Hz - 20kHz +/- 3 dB  
Frame: ABS plastic  
Grille: Fine mesh aluminum  
Mounting: Bayonet-type with swing-out clamps  
Dimensions: 11.25” (28.5 cm) dia.  
Series: Hi-Fi  
Model: SP-H5TT  
Description: Round In-ceiling 15° Twist & Tilt  
Cut-Out: 7.25” (18.4 cm)  
Woofer: 5.25” (13.3 cm) woven glass fiber long  
throw  
Tweeter: 20mm (0.8”) aluminum dome, fluid cooled  
Recommended Power: 5 - 100 watts  
Nominal Impedance: 6 Ohms  
Efficiency: 89 dB (1W @ 1M w/1kHz)  
Frequency Response: 50Hz - 20kHz +/- 3 dB  
Frame: ABS plastic  
Grille: Fine mesh aluminum  
Mounting: Bayonet-type with swing-out clamps  
Dimensions: 8.75” (22.2 cm) dia.  
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21  
Series: Hi-Fi  
Model: SP-H6TT  
Description: Round In-ceiling 15° Twist & Tilt  
Cut-Out: 8.25” (20.9 cm)  
Woofer: 6.5” (16.5 cm) woven glass fiber long  
throw  
Tweeter: 20mm (0.8”) aluminum dome, fluid cooled  
Recommended Power: 5 - 120 watts  
Nominal Impedance: 6 Ohms  
Efficiency: 90 dB (1W @ 1M w/1kHz)  
Frequency Response: 45Hz - 20kHz +/- 3 dB  
Frame: ABS plastic  
Grille: Fine mesh aluminum  
Mounting: Bayonet-type with swing-out clamps  
Dimensions: 9.75” (24.7 cm) dia.  
Series: Hi-Fi  
Model: SP-H8TT  
Description: Round In-ceiling 15° Twist & Tilt  
Cut-Out: 9.75” (24.7 cm)  
Woofer: 8.0” (20.3 cm) woven glass fiber long  
throw  
Tweeter: 25mm (1.0”) aluminum dome, fluid cooled  
Recommended Power: 5 - 140 watts  
Nominal Impedance: 6 Ohms  
Efficiency: 91 dB (1W @ 1M w/1kHz)  
Frequency Response: 35Hz - 20kHz +/- 3 dB  
Frame: ABS plastic  
Grille: Fine mesh aluminum  
Mounting: Bayonet-type with swing-out clamps  
Dimensions: 11.25” (28.5 cm) dia.  
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22  
Warranty & Repair  
Warranty  
All Russound Advantage Speaker products have a Limited Lifetime Warranty against defects in materials and work-  
manship. Proof of Purchase must accompany all claims. During the warranty period Russound will replace any defec-  
tive part and correct any defect in workmanship without charge for either parts or labor.  
Russound may replace returned speakers with a product of equal value and performance. In such cases, some modi-  
fications to the mounting may be necessary and are not Russound’s responsibility.  
For this warranty to apply, the unit must be installed and used according to its written instructions. If necessary,  
repairs must be performed by Russound. The unit must be returned to Russound at the owner’s expense and with  
prior written permission. Accidental damage and shipping damage are not considered defects, nor is damage result-  
ing from abuse or from servicing performed by an agency or person not specifically authorized in writing by  
Russound.  
Russound products are sold only through authorized Dealers and Distributors to ensure that customers obtain proper  
support and service. Russound reserves the right to limit the warranty of products purchased from an unauthorized  
dealer or other source, including retailers, mail order sellers, and online sellers, to ninety (90) days from the date of  
purchase.  
Damage to or destruction of components due to application of excessive power voids the warranty on those parts. In  
these cases, repairs will be made on the basis of the retail value of the parts and labor. To return for repairs, the unit  
must be shipped to Russound at the owner’s expense, along with a note explaining the nature of service required. Be  
sure to pack the speaker(s) in a corrugated container with at least 3 inches of resilient material to protect the unit  
from damage in transit.  
This Warranty Does Not Cover:  
• Damage caused by abuse, accident, misuse, negligence, or improper operation (installation).  
• Products that have been altered or modified.  
• Any product whose identifying number or decal, serial #, etc. has been altered, defaced or removed.  
• Normal wear and maintenance.  
Due to our continual efforts to improve product quality as new technology and techniques become available,  
Russound/FMP, Inc. reserves the right to revise speaker systems specifications without notice.  
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23  
Russound  
5 Forbes Road, Newmarket, NH 03857  
tel 603.659.5170 • fax 603.659.5388  
fax-on-demand: 603.659.5590  
LR3130-0008  
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