Pontiac Automobile 2002 Sunfire User Manual

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2002 Pontiac Sunfire  
Owner’s Manual  
Litho in U.S.A.  
Part Number 22673534 A First Edition  
Copyright General Motors Corporation 06/06/01  
All Rights Reserved  
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We support voluntary  
technician certification.  
GENERAL MOTORS, GM, the GM Emblem,  
PONTIAC, the PONTIAC Emblem and the name  
SUNFIRE are registered trademarks of General  
Motors Corporation.  
This manual includes the latest information at the time  
it was printed. We reserve the right to make changes  
after that time without further notice. For vehicles first  
sold in Canada, substitute the name “General Motors  
of Canada Limited” for Pontiac Division whenever it  
appears in this manual.  
For Canadian Owners Who Prefer a  
French Language Manual:  
Please keep this manual in your vehicle, so it will  
be there if you ever need it when you’re on the road.  
If you sell the vehicle, please leave this manual in it  
so the new owner can use it.  
Aux propriétaires canadiens: Vous pouvez vous  
procurer un exemplaire de ce guide en français chez  
votre concessionaire ou au:  
Helm, Incorporated  
P.O. Box 07130  
Detroit, MI 48207  
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How to Use this Manual  
CAUTION:  
Many people read their owner’s manual from beginning  
to end when they first receive their new vehicle. If you  
do this, it will help you learn about the features and  
controls for your vehicle. In this manual, you’ll find  
that pictures and words work together to explain  
things quickly.  
These mean there is something that could hurt  
you or other people.  
In the caution area, we tell you what the hazard is.  
Then we tell you what to do to help avoid or reduce  
the hazard. Please read these cautions. If you don’t,  
you or others could be hurt.  
You will also find a circle  
with a slash through it in  
this book. This safety  
symbol means “Don’t,”  
“Don’t do this” or “Don’t  
let this happen.”  
Safety Warnings and Symbols  
You will find a number of safety cautions in this book.  
We use a box and the word CAUTION to tell you  
about things that could hurt you if you were to ignore  
the warning.  
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Vehicle Damage Warnings  
Vehicle Symbols  
Also, in this book you will find these notices:  
Your vehicle may be equipped with components and  
labels that use symbols instead of text. Symbols,  
used on your vehicle, are shown along with the text  
describing the operation or information relating to a  
specific component, control, message, gage or indicator.  
NOTICE:  
These mean there is something that could damage  
your vehicle.  
If you need help figuring out a specific name of a  
component, gage or indicator reference the following  
topics in the Index:  
In the notice area, we tell you about something that can  
damage your vehicle. Many times, this damage would  
not be covered by your warranty, and it could be costly.  
But the notice will tell you what to do to help avoid  
the damage.  
“Engine Compartment Overview”  
“Instrument Panel”  
“Comfort Controls”  
“Audio Systems”  
Also see “Warning Lights and Gages” in the Index.  
When you read other manuals, you might see  
CAUTION and NOTICE warnings in different  
colors or in different words.  
You’ll also see warning labels on your vehicle.  
They use the same words, CAUTION or NOTICE.  
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These are some examples of vehicle symbols you may find on your vehicle:  
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Section 1 Seats and Restraint Systems  
Here you’ll find information about the seats in your vehicle and how to use your safety belts properly. You can also  
learn about some things you should not do with air bags and safety belts.  
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Seats and Seat Controls  
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Rear Safety Belt Comfort Guides for Children  
and Small Adults  
Center Passenger Position  
Children  
Restraint Systems for Children  
Older Children  
Safety Belt Extender  
Checking Your Restraint Systems  
Replacing Restraint System Parts  
After a Crash  
1-8  
Safety Belts: They’re for Everyone  
Here Are Questions Many People Ask About  
Safety Belts -- and the Answers  
How to Wear Safety Belts Properly  
Driver Position  
Safety Belt Use During Pregnancy  
Right Front Passenger Position  
Supplemental Restraint System (SRS)  
Rear Seat Passengers  
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Seats and Seat Controls  
This section tells you about the seats -- how to  
adjust them -- and also about reclining seatbacks and  
head restraints.  
Manual Front Seats  
CAUTION:  
You can lose control of the vehicle if you try to  
adjust a manual driver’s seat while the vehicle is  
moving. The sudden movement could startle and  
confuse you, or make you push a pedal when you  
don’t want to. Adjust the driver’s seat only when  
the vehicle is not moving.  
Lift the lever located on the front of the driver’s seat to  
unlock it. Slide the seat to where you want it and release  
the lever. Then try to move the seat with your body, to  
make sure the seat is locked into place.  
Your vehicle will be equipped with one of the following  
passenger seat adjusters.  
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If your vehicle is not equipped with easy entry seats,  
your passenger seat adjuster looks like this. Slide the  
lever located under the passenger’s seat to the right to  
unlock it. Slide the seat to where you want it and release  
the lever. Then try to move the seat with your body, to  
make sure the seat is locked into place.  
If your vehicle is equipped with easy entry seats, this is  
your front passenger seat adjuster. Pull up on the lever  
located at the front of the passengers seat to unlock it.  
Slide the seat to a comfortable position and release the  
lever. Then try to move the seat with your body, to make  
sure the seat is locked into place.  
1-3  
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Reclining Front Seatbacks  
To adjust the seatback, lift the lever located on the  
outboard side of the seat and move the seatback to  
where you want it. Release the lever and push rearward  
on the seatback to make sure it is locked. Pull up on the  
lever without pushing on the seatback and the seatback  
will go to an upright position.  
But don’t have a seatback reclined if your vehicle is moving.  
1-4  
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Head Restraints  
CAUTION:  
Sitting in a reclined position when your vehicle is  
in motion can be dangerous. Even if you buckle  
up, your safety belts can’t do their job when  
you’re reclined like this.  
The shoulder belt can’t do its job because it  
won’t be against your body. Instead, it will be in  
front of you. In a crash you could go into it,  
receiving neck or other injuries.  
The lap belt can’t do its job either. In a crash the  
belt could go up over your abdomen. The belt  
forces would be there, not at your pelvic bones.  
This could cause serious internal injuries.  
For proper protection when the vehicle is in  
motion, have the seatback upright. Then sit  
well back in the seat and wear your safety  
belt properly.  
Slide the head restraint up or down so that the top of the  
restraint is closest to the top of your head. This position  
reduces the chance of a neck injury in a crash.  
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When you return the seatback to its original position,  
make sure the seatback is locked. The latch must be  
down for the seat to work properly.  
Seatback Latches (Two-Door Models)  
The front seatback folds forward to let people get into  
the back seat.  
To fold a front  
CAUTION:  
seatback forward, lift  
the latch located on the  
lower backside of the  
seatback and push the  
seatback forward.  
If the seatback isn’t locked, it could move  
forward in a sudden stop or crash. That could  
cause injury to the person sitting there. Always  
press rearward on the seatback to be sure it  
is locked.  
1-6  
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Easy Entry Seat (If Equipped)  
Rear Seats  
Folding the Rear Seat  
CAUTION:  
If an easy entry right front seat isn’t locked, it  
can move. In a sudden stop or crash, the person  
sitting there could be injured. After you’ve used  
it, be sure to push rearward on an easy entry seat  
to be sure it is locked.  
The right front seat of some two-door vehicles makes it  
easy to get in and out of the rear seat.  
1. Lift the right front seatback latch to release  
the seatback.  
2. Tilt the seatback completely forward and the whole  
seat will slide forward.  
To fold down rear seat, pull forward on the seat tab to  
unlatch the seatback.  
3. Move the right front seatback to its original position  
after someone gets into the rear seat area.  
4. Then move the seat rearward until it locks.  
Tilt the seatback completely forward again to get out.  
1-7  
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Safety Belts: They’re for Everyone  
This part of the manual tells you how to use safety belts  
properly. It also tells you some things you should not do  
with safety belts.  
And it explains the Supplemental Restraint System  
(SRS), or air bag system.  
CAUTION:  
Don’t let anyone ride where he or she can’t wear  
a safety belt properly. If you are in a crash and  
you’re not wearing a safety belt, your injuries  
can be much worse. You can hit things inside the  
vehicle or be ejected from it. You can be seriously  
injured or killed. In the same crash, you might  
not be if you are buckled up. Always fasten your  
safety belt, and check that your passengers’ belts  
are fastened properly too.  
To return the seat to its upright position, push the  
seatback up to its original latched position.  
Check to ensure the seatback is in its original position  
and securely latched by pulling forward on the top of the  
seatback. Move any objects in the trunk compartment  
that prevent the seatback from closing.  
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In most states and Canadian provinces, the law says to  
wear safety belts. Here’s why: They work.  
CAUTION:  
You never know if you’ll be in a crash. If you do have a  
crash, you don’t know if it will be a bad one.  
It is extremely dangerous to ride in a cargo area,  
inside or outside of a vehicle. In a collision,  
people riding in these areas are more likely to be  
seriously injured or killed. Do not allow people to  
ride in any area of your vehicle that is not  
equipped with seats and safety belts. Be sure  
everyone in your vehicle is in a seat and using a  
safety belt properly.  
A few crashes are mild, and some crashes can be so  
serious that even buckled up a person wouldn’t survive.  
But most crashes are in between. In many of them,  
people who buckle up can survive and sometimes walk  
away. Without belts they could have been badly hurt  
or killed.  
After more than 30 years of safety belts in vehicles,  
the facts are clear. In most crashes buckling up does  
matter ... a lot!  
Your vehicle has a light  
that comes on as a reminder  
to buckle up. See “Safety  
Belt Reminder Light” in  
the Index.  
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Why Safety Belts Work  
When you ride in or on anything, you go as fast as  
it goes.  
Put someone on it.  
Take the simplest vehicle. Suppose it’s just a seat on wheels.  
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Get it up to speed. Then stop the vehicle. The rider  
doesn’t stop.  
The person keeps going until stopped by something.  
In a real vehicle, it could be the windshield ...  
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or the instrument panel ...  
or the safety belts!  
With safety belts, you slow down as the vehicle does.  
You get more time to stop. You stop over more distance,  
and your strongest bones take the forces. That’s why  
safety belts make such good sense.  
1-12  
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Q: If I’m a good driver, and I never drive far from  
Here Are Questions Many People Ask  
About Safety Belts -- and the Answers  
home, why should I wear safety belts?  
A: You may be an excellent driver, but if you’re in an  
accident -- even one that isn’t your fault -- you  
and your passengers can be hurt. Being a good  
driver doesn’t protect you from things beyond your  
control, such as bad drivers.  
Q: Won’t I be trapped in the vehicle after an  
accident if I’m wearing a safety belt?  
A: You could be -- whether you’re wearing a safety  
belt or not. But you can unbuckle a safety belt,  
even if you’re upside down. And your chance of  
being conscious during and after an accident, so  
you can unbuckle and get out, is much greater if  
you are belted.  
Most accidents occur within 25 miles (40 km)  
of home. And the greatest number of serious  
injuries and deaths occur at speeds of less  
than 40 mph (65 km/h).  
Q: If my vehicle has air bags, why should I have to  
Safety belts are for everyone.  
wear safety belts?  
A: Air bags are in many vehicles today and will be in  
most of them in the future. But they are  
supplemental systems only; so they work with  
safety belts -- not instead of them. Every air bag  
system ever offered for sale has required the use of  
safety belts. Even if you’re in a vehicle that has air  
bags, you still have to buckle up to get the most  
protection. That’s true not only in frontal collisions,  
but especially in side and other collisions.  
1-13  
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How to Wear Safety Belts Properly  
Adults  
This part is only for people of adult size.  
Be aware that there are special things to know  
about safety belts and children. And there are different  
rules for smaller children and babies. If a child will  
be riding in your vehicle, see the part of this manual  
called “Children.” Follow those rules for  
everyone’s protection.  
First, you’ll want to know which restraint systems your  
vehicle has.  
We’ll start with the driver position.  
Driver Position  
This part describes the driver’s restraint system.  
3. Pick up the latch plate and pull the belt across you.  
Don’t let it get twisted.  
Lap-Shoulder Belt  
The driver has a lap-shoulder belt. Here’s how to wear  
it properly.  
The shoulder belt may lock if you pull the belt across  
you very quickly. If this happens, let the belt go back  
slightly to unlock it. Then pull the belt across you  
more slowly.  
1. Close and lock the door.  
2. Adjust the seat so you can sit up straight. To see  
how, see “Seats” in the Index.  
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4. Push the latch plate into the buckle until it clicks.  
Pull up on the latch plate to make sure it is secure.  
If the belt isn’t long enough, see “Safety Belt  
Extender” at the end of this section.  
Make sure the release button on the buckle is  
positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the  
safety belt quickly if you ever had to.  
The lap part of the belt should be worn low and snug on  
the hips, just touching the thighs. In a crash, this applies  
force to the strong pelvic bones. And you’d be less likely  
to slide under the lap belt. If you slid under it, the belt  
would apply force at your abdomen. This could cause  
serious or even fatal injuries. The shoulder belt should go  
over the shoulder and across the chest. These parts of the  
body are best able to take belt restraining forces.  
5. To make the lap part tight, pull down on the buckle  
end of the belt as you pull up on the shoulder belt.  
The safety belt locks if there’s a sudden stop or crash, or  
if you pull the belt very quickly out of the retractor.  
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Shoulder Belt Height Adjuster (Four-Door Models)  
To move it down, squeeze the release button and move  
the height adjuster to the desired position. You can move  
the adjuster up just by pushing up on the shoulder belt  
guide. After you move the adjuster to where you want it,  
try to move it down without squeezing the release button  
to make sure it has locked into position.  
Before you begin to drive, move the shoulder belt  
adjuster to the height that is right for you.  
Adjust the height so that the shoulder portion of the  
belt is centered on your shoulder. The belt should be  
away from your face and neck, but not falling off  
your shoulder.  
1-16  
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Q: What’s wrong with this?  
CAUTION:  
You can be seriously hurt if your shoulder belt is  
too loose. In a crash, you would move forward  
too much, which could increase injury. The  
shoulder belt should fit against your body.  
A: The shoulder belt is too loose. It won’t give nearly  
as much protection this way.  
1-17  
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Q: What’s wrong with this?  
CAUTION:  
You can be seriously injured if your belt is  
buckled in the wrong place like this. In a crash,  
the belt would go up over your abdomen. The  
belt forces would be there, not at the pelvic  
bones. This could cause serious internal injuries.  
Always buckle your belt into the buckle  
nearest you.  
A: The belt is buckled in the wrong place.  
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Q: What’s wrong with this?  
CAUTION:  
You can be seriously injured if you wear the  
shoulder belt under your arm. In a crash, your  
body would move too far forward, which would  
increase the chance of head and neck injury.  
Also, the belt would apply too much force to the  
ribs, which aren’t as strong as shoulder bones.  
You could also severely injure internal organs  
like your liver or spleen.  
A: The shoulder belt is worn under the arm. It should  
be worn over the shoulder at all times.  
1-19  
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Q: What’s wrong with this?  
CAUTION:  
You can be seriously injured by a twisted belt. In  
a crash, you wouldn’t have the full width of the  
belt to spread impact forces. If a belt is twisted,  
make it straight so it can work properly, or ask  
your dealer to fix it.  
A: The belt is twisted across the body.  
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Safety Belt Use During Pregnancy  
Safety belts work for everyone, including pregnant  
women. Like all occupants, they are more likely to be  
seriously injured if they don’t wear safety belts.  
To unlatch the belt, just push the button on the buckle.  
The belt should go back out of the way.  
Before you close the door, be sure the belt is out of the  
way. If you slam the door on it, you can damage both the  
belt and your vehicle.  
A pregnant woman should wear a lap-shoulder belt, and  
the lap portion should be worn as low as possible, below  
the rounding, throughout the pregnancy.  
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The best way to protect the fetus is to protect the  
mother. When a safety belt is worn properly, it’s more  
likely that the fetus won’t be hurt in a crash. For  
pregnant women, as for anyone, the key to making  
safety belts effective is wearing them properly.  
Here are the most important things to know about the air  
bag system:  
CAUTION:  
Right Front Passenger Position  
To learn how to wear the right front passenger’s  
safety belt properly, see “Driver Position” earlier  
in this section.  
You can be severely injured or killed in a crash if  
you aren’t wearing your safety belt -- even if you  
have air bags. Wearing your safety belt during a  
crash helps reduce your chance of hitting things  
inside the vehicle or being ejected from it. Air  
bags are designed to work with safety belts, but  
don’t replace them. Air bags are designed to  
work only in moderate to severe crashes where  
the front of your vehicle hits something. They  
aren’t designed to inflate at all in rollover, rear  
or low-speed frontal crashes, or in many side  
crashes. And, for some unrestrained occupants,  
air bags may provide less protection in frontal  
crashes than more forceful air bags have  
The right front passenger’s safety belt works the same  
way as the driver’s safety belt -- except for one thing.  
If you ever pull the shoulder portion of the belt out all  
the way, you will engage the child restraint locking  
feature. If this happens, just let the belt go back all the  
way and start again.  
Supplemental Restraint System (SRS)  
This part explains the Supplemental Restraint System  
(SRS) or air bag system.  
Your vehicle has air bags -- one air bag for the driver  
and another air bag for the right front passenger.  
provided in the past. Everyone in your vehicle  
should wear a safety belt properly -- whether or  
not there’s an air bag for that person.  
Frontal air bags are designed to help reduce the risk of  
injury from the force of an inflating air bag. But these  
air bags must inflate very quickly to do their job and  
comply with federal regulations.  
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CAUTION: (Continued)  
CAUTION:  
children and infants. Neither the vehicle’s safety  
belt system nor its air bag system is designed for  
them. Young children and infants need the  
protection that a child restraint system can  
provide. Always secure children properly in your  
vehicle. To read how, see the part of this manual  
called “Children.”  
Air bags inflate with great force, faster than the  
blink of an eye. If you’re too close to an inflating  
air bag, as you would be if you were leaning  
forward, it could seriously injure you. Safety belts  
help keep you in position before and during a  
crash. Always wear your safety belt, even with air  
bags. The driver should sit as far back as possible  
while still maintaining control of the vehicle.  
There is an air bag readiness  
light on the instrument  
panel, which shows the  
air bag symbol.  
CAUTION:  
Anyone who is up against, or very close to, any  
air bag when it inflates can be seriously injured  
or killed. Air bags plus lap-shoulder belts offer  
the best protection for adults, but not for young  
The system checks the air bag electrical system for  
malfunctions. The light tells you if there is an electrical  
problem. See “Air Bag Readiness Light” in the Index  
for more information.  
CAUTION: (Continued)  
1-23  
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How the Air Bag System Works  
The right front passenger’s air bag is in the instrument  
panel on the passenger’s side.  
Where are the air bags?  
The driver’s air bag is in the middle of the steering wheel.  
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When should an air bag inflate?  
CAUTION:  
An air bag is designed to inflate in a moderate to severe  
frontal or near-frontal crash. The air bag will inflate  
only if the impact speed is above the system’s designed  
“threshold level.” If your vehicle goes straight into a  
wall that doesn’t move or deform, the threshold level is  
about 9 to 14 mph (14 to 23 km/h). The threshold level  
can vary, however, with specific vehicle design, so that  
it can be somewhat above or below this range. If your  
vehicle strikes something that will move or deform, such  
as a parked car, the threshold level will be higher. The  
air bag is not designed to inflate in rollovers, rear  
impacts, or in many side impacts because inflation  
would not help the occupant.  
If something is between an occupant and an  
air bag, the bag might not inflate properly or it  
might force the object into that person causing  
severe injury or even death. The path of an  
inflating air bag must be kept clear. Don’t put  
anything between an occupant and an air bag,  
and don’t attach or put anything on the  
steering wheel hub or on or near any other air  
bag covering.  
In any particular crash, no one can say whether an air  
bag should have inflated simply because of the damage  
to a vehicle or because of what the repair costs were.  
Inflation is determined by the angle of the impact and  
how quickly the vehicle slows down in frontal or  
near-frontal impacts.  
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What makes an air bag inflate?  
What will you see after an air bag inflates?  
In an impact of sufficient severity, the air bag sensing  
system detects that the vehicle is in a crash. The sensing  
system triggers a release of gas from the inflator, which  
inflates the air bag. The inflator, air bag and related  
hardware are all part of the air bag modules inside the  
steering wheel and in the instrument panel in front of the  
right front passenger.  
After an air bag inflates, it quickly deflates, so quickly  
that some people may not even realize the air bag  
inflated. Some components of the air bag module -- the  
steering wheel hub for the driver’s air bag, or the  
instrument panel for the right front passenger’s  
bag -- will be hot for a short time. The parts of the bag  
that come into contact with you may be warm, but not  
too hot to touch. There will be some smoke and dust  
coming from vents in the deflated air bags. Air bag  
inflation doesn’t prevent the driver from seeing or from  
being able to steer the vehicle, nor does it stop people  
from leaving the vehicle.  
How does an air bag restrain?  
In moderate to severe frontal or near-frontal collisions,  
even belted occupants can contact the steering wheel or  
the instrument panel. Air bags supplement the protection  
provided by safety belts. Air bags distribute the force of  
the impact more evenly over the occupant’s upper body,  
stopping the occupant more gradually. But air bags  
would not help you in many types of collisions,  
including rollovers, rear impacts and many side impacts,  
primarily because an occupant’s motion is not toward  
those air bags. Air bags should never be regarded  
as anything more than a supplement to safety belts,  
and then only in moderate to severe frontal or  
CAUTION:  
When an air bag inflates, there is dust in the air.  
This dust could cause breathing problems for  
people with a history of asthma or other  
breathing trouble. To avoid this, everyone in the  
vehicle should get out as soon as it is safe to do so.  
If you have breathing problems but can’t get out  
of the vehicle after an air bag inflates, then get  
fresh air by opening a window or door.  
near-frontal collisions.  
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In many crashes severe enough to inflate an air bag,  
windshields are broken by vehicle deformation.  
Additional windshield breakage may also occur from the  
right front passenger air bag.  
NOTICE:  
If you damage the covering for the driver’s or the  
right front passenger’s air bag, the bag may not  
work properly. You may have to replace the air  
bag module in the steering wheel or both the air  
bag module and the instrument panel for the  
right front passenger’s air bag. Do not open or  
break the air bag coverings.  
Air bags are designed to inflate only once. After they  
inflate, you’ll need some new parts for your air bag  
system. If you don’t get them, the air bag system  
won’t be there to help protect you in another crash.  
A new system will include air bag modules and  
possibly other parts. The service manual for your  
vehicle covers the need to replace other parts.  
Your vehicle is equipped with a crash sensing and  
diagnostic module, which records information about  
the air bag system. The module records information  
about the readiness of the system, when the system  
commands air bag inflation and driver’s safety belt  
usage at deployment.  
Let only qualified technicians work on your air bag  
system. Improper service can mean that your air  
bag system won’t work properly. See your dealer  
for service.  
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Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle  
Rear Seat Passengers  
Air bags affect how your vehicle should be serviced.  
There are parts of the air bag system in several places  
around your vehicle. You don’t want the system to  
inflate while someone is working on your vehicle. Your  
dealer and the service manual have information about  
servicing your vehicle and the air bag system. To  
purchase a service manual, see “Service and Owner  
Publications” in the Index.  
It’s very important for rear seat passengers to buckle up!  
Accident statistics show that unbelted people in the rear  
seat are hurt more often in crashes than those who are  
wearing safety belts.  
Rear passengers who aren’t safety belted can be thrown  
out of the vehicle in a crash. And they can strike others  
in the vehicle who are wearing safety belts.  
Rear Seat Outside Passenger Positions  
CAUTION:  
For up to 10 minutes after the ignition key is  
turned off and the battery is disconnected, an air  
bag can still inflate during improper service. You  
can be injured if you are close to an air bag when  
it inflates. Avoid yellow connectors. They are  
probably part of the air bag system. Be sure to  
follow proper service procedures, and make sure  
the person performing work for you is qualified  
to do so.  
Lap-Shoulder Belt  
The positions next to the windows have lap-shoulder  
belts. Here’s how to wear one properly.  
The air bag system does not need regular maintenance.  
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1. Pick up the latch plate and pull the belt across you.  
Don’t let it get twisted.  
If the belt stops before it reaches the buckle, tilt the  
latch plate and keep pulling until you can buckle it.  
The shoulder belt may lock if you pull the belt across  
you very quickly. If this happens, let the belt go back  
slightly to unlock it. Then pull the belt across you  
more slowly.  
Pull up on the latch plate to make sure it is secure.  
If the belt is not long enough, see “Safety Belt  
Extender” at the end of this section. Make sure the  
release button on the buckle is positioned so you  
would be able to unbuckle the safety belt quickly if  
you ever had to.  
2. Push the latch plate into the buckle until it clicks.  
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3. To make the lap part tight, pull down on the buckle  
end of the belt as you pull up on the shoulder part.  
The lap part of the belt should be worn low and snug on  
the hips, just touching the thighs. In a crash, this applies  
force to the strong pelvic bones. And you’d be less likely  
to slide under the lap belt. If you slid under it, the belt  
would apply force at your abdomen. This could cause  
serious or even fatal injuries. The shoulder belt should go  
over the shoulder and across the chest. These parts of the  
body are best able to take belt restraining forces.  
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The safety belt locks if there’s a sudden stop or a crash,  
or if you pull the belt very quickly out of the retractor.  
CAUTION:  
You can be seriously hurt if your shoulder belt is  
too loose. In a crash, you would move forward  
too much, which could increase injury. The  
shoulder belt should fit against your body.  
To unlatch the belt, just push the button on the buckle.  
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Rear Safety Belt Comfort Guides for  
Children and Small Adults  
Rear shoulder belt comfort guides will provide added  
safety belt comfort for older children who have  
outgrown booster seats and for small adults. When  
installed on a shoulder belt, the comfort guide better  
positions the belt away from the neck and head.  
There is one guide for each outside passenger position in  
the rear seat. To provide added safety belt comfort for  
children who have outgrown child restraints and for  
smaller adults, the comfort guides may be installed on  
the shoulder belts. Here’s how to install a comfort guide  
and use the safety belt:  
1. Pull the elastic cord out from between the edge of  
the seatback and the interior body to remove the  
guide from its storage clip.  
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2. Slide the guide under and past the belt. The elastic  
cord must be under the belt. Then, place the guide  
over the belt, and insert the two edges of the belt into  
the slots of the guide.  
3. Be sure that the belt is not twisted and it lies flat.  
The elastic cord must be under the belt and the guide  
on top.  
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To remove and store the comfort guides, squeeze the  
belt edges together so that you can take them out of  
the guides. Pull the guide upward to expose its storage  
clip, and then slide the guide onto the clip. Turn the  
guide and clip inward and in between the seatback  
and the interior body, leaving only the loop of elastic  
cord exposed.  
Center Passenger Position  
4. Buckle, position and release the safety belt as  
described in “Rear Seat Outside Passenger Positions”  
earlier in this section. Make sure that the shoulder  
belt crosses the shoulder.  
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Lap Belt  
To make the belt shorter, pull its free end as shown until  
the belt is snug.  
When you sit in the center seating position, you have a  
lap safety belt, which has no retractor. To make the belt  
longer, tilt the latch plate and pull it along the belt.  
Buckle, position and release it the same way as the lap  
part of a lap-shoulder belt. If the belt isn’t long enough,  
see “Safety Belt Extender” at the end of this section.  
Make sure the release button on the buckle is positioned  
so you would be able to unbuckle the safety belt quickly  
if you ever had to.  
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Children  
Everyone in a vehicle needs protection! This includes  
infants and all other children. Neither the distance  
traveled nor the age and size of the traveler changes the  
need, for everyone, to use safety restraints. In fact, the  
law in every state in the United States and in every  
Canadian province says children up to some age must be  
restrained while in a vehicle.  
Infants and Young Children  
Every time infants and young children ride in vehicles,  
they should have the protection provided by the  
appropriate restraint. Young children should not use the  
vehicle’s safety belts, unless there is no other choice.  
CAUTION:  
People should never hold a baby in their arms  
while riding in a vehicle. A baby doesn’t weigh  
much -- until a crash. During a crash a baby will  
become so heavy it is not possible to hold it.  
CAUTION: (Continued)  
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CAUTION: (Continued)  
CAUTION:  
For example, in a crash at only 25 mph  
(40 km/h), a 12-lb. (5.5 kg) baby will suddenly  
become a 240-lb. (110 kg) force on a person’s  
arms. A baby should be secured in an  
appropriate restraint.  
Children who are up against, or very close to, any  
air bag when it inflates can be seriously injured  
or killed. Air bags plus lap-shoulder belts offer  
outstanding protection for adults and older  
children, but not for young children and infants.  
Neither the vehicle’s safety belt system nor its air  
bag system is designed for them. Young children  
and infants need the protection that a child  
restraint system can provide.  
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Q: What are the different types of add-on  
For most basic types of child restraints, there are  
many different models available. When purchasing  
a child restraint, be sure it is designed to be used in  
a motor vehicle. If it is, the restraint will have a  
label saying that it meets federal motor vehicle  
safety standards.  
child restraints?  
A: Add-on child restraints, which are purchased by the  
vehicle’s owner, are available in four basic types.  
Selection of a particular restraint should take into  
consideration not only the child’s weight, height  
and age but also whether or not the restraint will be  
compatible with the motor vehicle in which it will  
be used.  
The restraint manufacturer’s instructions that come  
with the restraint state the weight and height  
limitations for a particular child restraint. In  
addition, there are many kinds of restraints  
available for children with special needs.  
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CAUTION:  
CAUTION:  
Newborn infants need complete support,  
including support for the head and neck. This is  
necessary because a newborn infant’s neck is  
weak and its head weighs so much compared with  
the rest of its body. In a crash, an infant in a  
rear-facing seat settles into the restraint, so the  
crash forces can be distributed across the  
strongest part of an infant’s body, the back and  
shoulders. Infants always should be secured in  
appropriate infant restraints.  
The body structure of a young child is quite  
unlike that of an adult or older child, for whom  
the safety belts are designed. A young child’s hip  
bones are still so small that the vehicle’s regular  
safety belt may not remain low on the hip bones,  
as it should. Instead, it may settle up around the  
child’s abdomen. In a crash, the belt would apply  
force on a body area that’s unprotected by any  
bony structure. This alone could cause serious or  
fatal injuries. Young children always should be  
secured in appropriate child restraints.  
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Restraint Systems for Children  
A rear-facing infant seat (B) provides restraint with the  
seating surface against the back of the infant. The  
harness system holds the infant in place and, in a crash,  
acts to keep the infant positioned in the restraint.  
An infant car bed (A), a special bed made for use in a  
motor vehicle, is an infant restraint system designed to  
restrain or position a child on a continuous flat surface.  
Make sure that the infant’s head rests toward the center  
of the vehicle.  
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A forward-facing child seat (C-E) provides restraint for  
the child’s body with the harness and also sometimes  
with surfaces such as T-shaped or shelf-like shields.  
A booster seat (F-G) is a child restraint designed to  
improve the fit of the vehicle’s safety belt system. Some  
booster seats have a shoulder belt positioner, and some  
high-back booster seats have a five-point harness. A  
booster seat can also help a child to see out the window.  
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Q: How do child restraints work?  
When choosing a child restraint, be sure the child  
restraint is designed to be used in a vehicle. If it is, it  
will have a label saying that it meets federal motor  
vehicle safety standards.  
A: A child restraint system is any device designed for  
use in a motor vehicle to restrain, seat, or position  
children. A built-in child restraint system is a  
permanent part of the motor vehicle. An add-on  
child restraint system is a portable one, which is  
purchased by the vehicle’s owner.  
Then follow the instructions for the restraint. You may  
find these instructions on the restraint itself or in a  
booklet, or both. These restraints use the belt system in  
your vehicle, but the child also has to be secured within  
the restraint to help reduce the chance of personal injury.  
When securing an add-on child restraint, refer to the  
instructions that come with the restraint which may be  
on the restraint itself or in a booklet, or both, and to this  
manual. The child restraint instructions are important, so  
if they are not available, obtain a replacement copy from  
the manufacturer.  
For many years, add-on child restraints have used  
the adult belt system in the vehicle. To help reduce  
the chance of injury, the child also has to be  
secured within the restraint. The vehicle’s belt  
system secures the add-on child restraint in the  
vehicle, and the add-on child restraint’s harness  
system holds the child in place within the restraint.  
Where to Put the Restraint  
One system, the three-point harness, has straps that  
come down over each of the infant’s shoulders and  
buckle together at the crotch. The five-point  
harness system has two shoulder straps, two hip  
straps and a crotch strap. A shield may take the  
place of hip straps. A T-shaped shield has shoulder  
straps that are attached to a flat pad which rests low  
against the child’s body. A shelf- or armrest-type  
shield has straps that are attached to a wide,  
Accident statistics show that children are safer if they  
are restrained in the rear rather than the front seat.  
General Motors, therefore, recommends that child  
restraints be secured in the rear seat including an infant  
riding in a rear-facing infant seat, a child riding in a  
forward-facing child seat and an older child riding in a  
booster seat. Never put a rear-facing child restraint in  
the front passenger seat. Here’s why:  
shelf-like shield that swings up or to the side.  
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Top Strap  
CAUTION:  
Some child restraints have a top strap, or “top tether.”  
It can help restrain the child restraint during a collision.  
For it to work, a top strap must be properly anchored  
to the vehicle. Some top strap-equipped child restraints  
are designed for use with or without the top strap being  
anchored. Others require the top strap always to be  
anchored. Be sure to read and follow the instructions  
for your child restraint. If yours requires that the top  
strap be anchored, don’t use the restraint unless it is  
anchored properly.  
A child in a rear-facing child restraint can be  
seriously injured or killed if the right front  
passenger’s air bag inflates. This is because the  
back of the rear-facing child restraint would be  
very close to the inflating air bag. Always secure  
a rear-facing child restraint in a rear seat.  
You may secure a forward-facing child restraint  
in the right front seat, but before you do, always  
move the front passenger seat as far back as it  
will go. It’s better to secure the child restraint in  
a rear seat.  
If the child restraint does not have a top strap, one can  
be obtained, in kit form, for many child restraints.  
Ask the child restraint manufacturer whether or not a kit  
is available.  
Wherever you install it, be sure to secure the child  
restraint properly.  
Keep in mind that an unsecured child restraint can move  
around in a collision or sudden stop and injure people in  
the vehicle. Be sure to properly secure any child  
restraint in your vehicle -- even when no child is in it.  
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Once you have the top strap anchored, you’ll be ready to  
secure the child restraint itself. Tighten the top strap  
when and as the child restraint manufacturer’s  
instructions say.  
Top strap anchors are already installed in your vehicle  
for the rear seating positions. You’ll find them behind  
the rear seat on the filler panel.  
In Canada, the law requires that forward-facing child  
restraints have a top strap, and that the strap be  
anchored. In the United States, some child restraints also  
have a top strap. If your child restraint has a top strap, it  
should be anchored.  
Anchor the top strap to one of the following anchor  
points. Be sure to use an anchor point located on the  
same side of the vehicle as the seating position where  
the child restraint will be placed.  
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Securing a Child Restraint in a Rear  
Outside Seat Position  
You’ll be using the lap-shoulder belt. See the earlier part  
about the top strap if the child restraint has one. Be sure  
to follow the instructions that came with the child  
restraint. Secure the child in the child restraint when and  
as the instructions say.  
1. Put the restraint on the seat.  
Tilt the latch plate to adjust the belt if needed.  
2. Pick up the latch plate, and run the lap and shoulder  
portions of the vehicle’s safety belt through or  
around the restraint. The child restraint instructions  
will show you how.  
If the shoulder belt goes in front of the child’s face or  
neck, put it behind the child restraint.  
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3. Buckle the belt. Make sure the release button is  
positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the  
safety belt quickly if you ever had to.  
4. To tighten the belt, pull up on the shoulder belt while  
you push down on the child restraint. If you’re using  
a forward-facing child restraint, you may find it  
helpful to use your knee to push down on the child  
restraint as you tighten the belt.  
5. Push and pull the child restraint in different  
directions to be sure it is secure.  
To remove the child restraint, just unbuckle the vehicle’s  
safety belt and let it go back all the way. The safety belt  
will move freely again and be ready to work for an adult  
or larger child passenger.  
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Securing a Child Restraint in the Center  
Rear Seat Position  
You’ll be using the lap belt. Be sure to follow the  
instructions that came with the child restraint. Secure  
the child in the child restraint when and as the  
instructions say.  
See the earlier part about the top strap if the child  
restraint has one.  
1. Make the belt as long as possible by tilting the latch  
plate and pulling it along the belt.  
2. Put the restraint on the seat.  
3. Run the vehicle’s safety belt through or around the  
restraint. The child restraint instructions will show  
you how.  
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4. Buckle the belt. Make sure the release button is  
positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the  
safety belt quickly if you ever had to.  
5. To tighten the belt, pull its free end while you push  
down on the child restraint. If you’re using a  
forward-facing child restraint, you may find it  
helpful to use your knee to push down on the child  
restraint as you tighten the belt.  
6. Push and pull the child restraint in different  
directions to be sure it is secure.  
To remove the child restraint, just unbuckle the vehicle’s  
safety belt. It will be ready to work for an adult or larger  
child passenger.  
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Although a rear seat is a safer place, you can secure a  
forward-facing child restraint in the right front seat.  
Securing a Child Restraint in the Right  
Front Seat Position  
You’ll be using the lap-shoulder belt. See the earlier part  
about the top strap if the child restraint has one. Be sure  
to follow the instructions that came with the child  
restraint. Secure the child in the child restraint when and  
as the instructions say.  
1. Because your vehicle has a right front passenger air  
bag, always move the seat as far back as it will go  
before securing a forward-facing child restraint.  
See “Seats” in the Index.  
Your vehicle has a right front passenger air bag. Never  
put a rear-facing child restraint in this seat. Here’s why:  
2. Put the restraint on the seat.  
3. Pick up the latch plate, and run the lap and shoulder  
portions of the vehicle’s safety belt through or  
around the restraint. The child restraint instructions  
will show you how.  
CAUTION:  
A child in a rear-facing child restraint can be  
seriously injured or killed if the right front  
passenger’s air bag inflates. This is because the  
back of the rear-facing child restraint would be  
very close to the inflating air bag. Always secure  
a rear-facing child restraint in the rear seat.  
If the shoulder belt goes in front of the child’s face or  
neck, put it behind the child restraint.  
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4. Buckle the belt. Make sure the release button is  
positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the  
safety belt quickly if you ever had to.  
5. Pull the rest of the shoulder belt all the way out of  
the retractor to set the lock.  
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6. To tighten the belt, feed the shoulder belt back into the  
retractor while you push down on the child restraint.  
You may find it helpful to use your knee to push down  
on the child restraint as you tighten the belt.  
7. Push and pull the child restraint in different  
directions to be sure it is secure.  
To remove the child restraint, just unbuckle the vehicle’s  
safety belt and let it go back all the way. The safety belt  
will move freely again and be ready to work for an adult  
or larger child passenger.  
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Q: What is the proper way to wear safety belts?  
Older Children  
A: If possible, an older child should wear a  
lap-shoulder belt and get the additional restraint a  
shoulder belt can provide. The shoulder belt should  
not cross the face or neck. The lap belt should fit  
snugly below the hips, just touching the top of the  
thighs. It should never be worn over the abdomen,  
which could cause severe or even fatal internal  
injuries in a crash.  
Accident statistics show that children are safer if they  
are restrained in the rear seat.  
In a crash, children who are not buckled up can strike  
other people who are buckled up, or can be thrown  
out of the vehicle. Older children need to use safety  
belts properly.  
Older children who have outgrown booster seats should  
wear the vehicle’s safety belts.  
If you have the choice, a child should sit next to a  
window so the child can wear a lap-shoulder belt and  
get the additional restraint a shoulder belt can provide.  
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CAUTION:  
Never do this.  
Here two children are wearing the same belt. The  
belt can’t properly spread the impact forces. In a  
crash, the two children can be crushed together  
and seriously injured. A belt must be used by  
only one person at a time.  
Q: What if a child is wearing a lap-shoulder belt,  
but the child is so small that the shoulder belt is  
very close to the child’s face or neck?  
A: Move the child toward the center of the vehicle, but  
be sure that the shoulder belt still is on the child’s  
shoulder, so that in a crash the child’s upper body  
would have the restraint that belts provide. If the  
child is sitting in a rear seat outside position, see  
“Rear Safety Belt Comfort Guides” in the Index.  
If the child is so small that the shoulder belt is still  
very close to the child’s face or neck, you might  
want to place the child in the center seat position,  
the one that has only a lap belt.  
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CAUTION:  
Never do this.  
Here a child is sitting in a seat that has a  
lap-shoulder belt, but the shoulder part is behind  
the child. If the child wears the belt in this way, in  
a crash the child might slide under the belt. The  
belt’s force would then be applied right on the  
child’s abdomen. That could cause serious or  
fatal injuries.  
Wherever the child sits, the lap portion of the belt  
should be worn low and snug on the hips, just touching  
the child’s thighs. This applies belt force to the child’s  
pelvic bones in a crash.  
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Safety Belt Extender  
If the vehicle’s safety belt will fasten around you, you  
should use it.  
Replacing Restraint System Parts  
After a Crash  
If you’ve had a crash, do you need new belts?  
But if a safety belt isn’t long enough to fasten, your  
dealer will order you an extender. It’s free. When you go  
in to order it, take the heaviest coat you will wear, so the  
extender will be long enough for you. The extender will  
be just for you, and just for the seat in your vehicle that  
you choose. Don’t let someone else use it, and use it  
only for the seat it is made to fit. To wear it, just attach it  
to the regular safety belt.  
After a very minor collision, nothing may be necessary.  
But if the belts were stretched, as they would be if worn  
during a more severe crash, then you need new parts.  
If belts are cut or damaged, replace them. Collision  
damage also may mean you will need to have safety belt  
or seat parts repaired or replaced. New parts and repairs  
may be necessary even if the belt wasn’t being used at  
the time of the collision.  
Checking Your Restraint Systems  
If an air bag inflates, you’ll need to replace air bag  
system parts. See the part on the air bag system earlier in  
this section.  
Now and then, make sure the safety belt reminder light  
and all your belts, buckles, latch plates, retractors and  
anchorages are working properly. Look for any other  
loose or damaged safety belt system parts. If you see  
anything that might keep a safety belt system from  
doing its job, have it repaired.  
Torn or frayed safety belts may not protect you in a  
crash. They can rip apart under impact forces. If a belt is  
torn or frayed, get a new one right away.  
Also look for any opened or broken air bag covers, and  
have them repaired or replaced. (The air bag system  
does not need regular maintenance.)  
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Section 2 Features and Controls  
Here you can learn about the many standard and optional features on your vehicle, and information on starting,  
shifting and braking. Also explained are the instrument panel and the warning systems that tell you if everything is  
working properly -- and what to do if you have a problem.  
2-2  
Windows  
Door Locks  
Remote Keyless Entry (If Equipped)  
Trunk  
Theft  
Content Theft Security System (If Equipped)  
Passlock  
New Vehicle “Break-In”  
Ignition Positions  
Starting Your Engine  
Engine Coolant Heater (If Equipped)  
Automatic Transaxle Operation  
Manual Transaxle Operation  
Parking Brake  
Shifting Into PARK (P)  
(Automatic Transaxle Only)  
Shifting Out of PARK (P)  
(Automatic Transaxle Only)  
2-35  
Parking Your Vehicle  
2-6  
(Manual Transaxle Models Only)  
Parking Over Things That Burn  
Engine Exhaust  
Running Your Engine While You’re Parked  
(Automatic Transaxle)  
Tilt Wheel (If Equipped)  
Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever  
Exterior Lamps  
Interior Lamps  
Mirrors  
Storage Compartments  
Ashtrays and Cigarette Lighter (If Equipped)  
Sun Visors  
2-9  
2-36  
2-36  
2-37  
2-13  
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Sunroof (If Equipped)  
The Instrument Panel -- Your  
Information System  
Instrument Panel Cluster  
Warning Lights, Gages and Indicators  
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Windows  
CAUTION:  
Leaving children in a vehicle with the windows  
closed is dangerous. A child can be overcome by  
the extreme heat and can suffer permanent  
injuries or even death from heat stroke.  
Never leave a child alone in a vehicle, especially  
with the windows closed in warm or hot weather.  
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Auto Down Window  
Manual Windows  
The driver’s window switch has an auto-down feature.  
The driver’s window can be opened to the desired  
position by pressing the rear of the switch to the first  
detent. To use the auto-down feature, press the rear of  
the switch all the way down. The window will continue  
down until it is fully open.  
On a vehicle with manual windows, use the window  
crank to open and close each window.  
Power Windows (If Equipped)  
The switches on the center  
console control each of the  
power windows when the  
ignition is on. In addition,  
on four-door models, each  
rear passenger door has a  
switch for its own window.  
To stop the window while it is lowering, briefly press  
the switch forward, then release it.  
Lock-Out Switch  
Four-door models also have a lock-out switch. Press the  
lock-out switch to disable the rear passenger’s power  
window switches. This will prevent rear passengers from  
opening and closing the windows. The driver can still  
control all windows with the switch in the lock position.  
To lower a window, press and hold the rear of the  
switch. To raise the window, press and hold the  
switch forward.  
Press the lock-out switch again to unlock the  
passenger’s window switches.  
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Keys  
CAUTION:  
Leaving children in a vehicle with the ignition  
key is dangerous for many reasons. A child or  
others could be badly injured or even killed.  
They could operate the power windows or  
other controls or even make the vehicle move.  
Don’t leave the keys in a vehicle with children.  
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One key is used for the  
ignition, the doors and  
all other locks.  
If you need a new key, contact your Pontiac dealer  
who can obtain the correct key code. See “Roadside  
Assistance” in the Index for more information.  
NOTICE:  
Your vehicle has a number of new features that  
can help prevent theft. But you can have a lot of  
trouble getting into your vehicle if you ever lock  
your key inside. You may even have to damage  
your vehicle to get in. So be sure you have an  
extra key.  
When a new vehicle is delivered, the dealer removes  
the key tag from the key and gives it to the first owner.  
Each tag has a code on it that tells your dealer or a  
qualified locksmith how to make extra keys. Keep the  
tag in a safe place. If you lose your key, you’ll be able  
to have a new one made easily using the tag.  
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There are several ways to lock and unlock your vehicle.  
Door Locks  
CAUTION:  
Use your key to lock and unlock your vehicle from the  
outside. If your vehicle is equipped with the remote  
keyless entry system, you can use it to lock and unlock  
your vehicle. See “Remote Keyless Entry System” in  
the Index.  
Unlocked doors can be dangerous.  
Passengers -- especially children -- can  
easily open the doors and fall out of a  
moving vehicle. When a door is locked,  
the handle won’t open it. You increase the  
chance of being thrown out of the vehicle in  
a crash if the doors aren’t locked. So, wear  
safety belts properly and lock the doors  
whenever you drive.  
To lock the door from  
the inside, push the  
locking lever forward.  
Young children who get into unlocked  
vehicles may be unable to get out. A child  
can be overcome by extreme heat and can  
suffer permanent injuries or even death  
from heat stroke. Always lock your vehicle  
whenever you leave it.  
To unlock the door, pull the locking lever rearward.  
Outsiders can easily enter through an  
unlocked door when you slow down or stop  
your vehicle. Locking your doors can help  
prevent this from happening.  
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Power Door Locks (If Equipped)  
Rear Door Security Lock  
(Four-Door Models)  
You can lock or unlock  
all doors on your vehicle  
from the driver’s or  
front passenger’s door  
lock switch.  
Your vehicle is equipped  
with rear door security  
locks that help prevent  
passengers from opening  
the rear doors on your  
vehicle from the inside.  
To Use One of These Locks  
Press the lower portion of the switch to lock the doors.  
Press the upper portion of the switch to unlock the doors.  
1. Use a key to move the lock all the way up.  
2. Close the door.  
The locking lever on each rear door works only that  
door’s lock. It won’t lock (or unlock) all of the  
doors -- that’s a safety feature.  
3. Do the same thing to the other rear door lock.  
The rear doors on your vehicle cannot be opened from  
inside when this feature is in use.  
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To Open a Rear Door With the Security Lock  
1. Unlock the door from the inside.  
Lockout Prevention (If Equipped)  
If your vehicle is equipped with remote keyless entry,  
you have lockout protection. This feature stops the  
power door locks from locking when the keys are in  
the ignition and the door is open.  
2. Then open the door from the outside.  
If you don’t cancel the security lock feature, adults or  
older children who ride in the rear won’t be able to open  
the rear door from the inside. You should let adults and  
older children know how to cancel the locks.  
If the power door lock switch is pressed when a door  
is open and the key is in the ignition, all the doors will  
lock and the driver’s door will unlock.  
To Cancel the Rear Door Lock  
Leaving Your Vehicle  
If you are leaving the vehicle, open your door and set  
the locks from inside. Then get out and close the door.  
1. Unlock the door from the inside and open the door  
from the outside.  
2. Use a key to move the lock all the way down.  
3. Do the same for the other rear door.  
The rear door lock will now work normally.  
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This device complies with RSS-210 of Industry Canada.  
Operation is subject to the following two conditions:  
(1) this device may not cause interference, and (2) this  
device must accept any interference received, including  
interference that may cause undesired operation of  
the device.  
Remote Keyless Entry (If Equipped)  
If your vehicle has this feature, you can lock and unlock  
your doors or unlock your trunk from about 3 feet (1 m)  
up to 30 feet (9 m) away using the remote keyless entry  
transmitter supplied with your vehicle.  
In addition, the system illuminates the interior lamps  
for a set period of time. Also, a content theft security  
system can be activated to monitor and set a horn alarm  
if the vehicle’s door or trunk is opened without first  
unlocking the door or trunk with the transmitter.  
Changes or modifications to this system by other than  
an authorized service facility could void authorization to  
use this equipment.  
At times you may notice a decrease in range. This is  
normal for any remote keyless entry system. If the  
transmitter does not work or if you have to stand closer  
to your vehicle for the transmitter to work, try this:  
The remote keyless entry system consists of a  
receiver, which is located in the vehicle, and two  
hand held transmitters.  
Check the distance. You may be too far from your  
vehicle. You may need to stand closer during rainy  
or snowy weather.  
Your remote keyless entry system operates on a radio  
frequency subject to Federal Communications  
Commission (FCC) Rules and with Industry Canada.  
Check the location. Other vehicles or objects may be  
blocking the signal. Take a few steps to the left or  
right, hold the transmitter higher, and try again.  
This device complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules.  
Operation is subject to the following two conditions:  
(1) this device may not cause harmful interference,  
and (2) this device must accept any interference  
received, including interference that may cause  
undesired operation.  
Check to determine if battery replacement or  
resynchronization is necessary. See the instructions  
that follow.  
If you’re still having trouble, see your dealer or a  
qualified technician for service.  
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UNLOCK: The driver’s door will unlock when the  
UNLOCK button on the transmitter is pressed. In  
addition, the headlamps will flash twice, the interior  
lamps will turn on for about 20 seconds or until the  
ignition is turned on, and the content theft system will  
disarm. See “Content Theft Security System” later  
in this section. If you press UNLOCK again within  
five seconds, all remaining doors will unlock.  
Operation  
The following functions are  
available with the remote  
keyless entry system:  
(Trunk Release): The trunk will unlock when the  
vehicle symbol on the transmitter is pressed, as long as  
the trunk lockout is not engaged. You can open the trunk  
with the transmitter when the vehicle speed is less that  
2 mph (3 km/h). The headlamps will flash twice.  
(Panic): The horn will sound and the headlamps  
and interior lamps will flash alternately when this button  
is pressed. This can be turned off by pressing the  
panic button again or by turning the ignition to ON.  
The alarm will sound for two minutes unless cancelled  
by the driver.  
LOCK: All doors will automatically lock when the  
LOCK button is pressed. In addition, if all doors and  
the trunk are closed, the headlamps will flash once, the  
interior lamps will turn off, and the vehicle content theft  
system will arm. See “Content Theft Security System”  
later in this section.  
Your dealer can change the settings to disable the  
headlamp flash and horn chirp features. Your dealer can  
also change the settings to allow the horn chirp twice on  
the first press of the UNLOCK button. See your dealer  
for more information.  
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Radio Personalization Feature  
Battery Replacement  
Your vehicle can store different radio preset stations  
depending on which keyless entry transmitter you use  
to unlock the doors. The radio will recall all the stored  
settings associated with that transmitter. Any radio  
setting changes will be assigned to the transmitter last  
used to unlock the doors.  
Under normal use, the battery in your remote keyless  
entry transmitter should last about two years.  
You can tell the battery is weak if the transmitter won’t  
work at the normal range in any location. If you have to  
get close to your vehicle before the transmitter works,  
it’s probably time to change the battery.  
This feature can be disabled by your dealer if you desire.  
Contact your dealer for further information.  
NOTICE:  
Matching Transmitter(s) to Your Vehicle  
Each remote keyless entry transmitter is coded to  
prevent another transmitter from unlocking your vehicle.  
If a transmitter is lost or stolen, a replacement can be  
purchased through your dealer. Remember to bring  
any remaining transmitters with you when you go to  
your dealer. When the dealer matches the replacement  
transmitter to your vehicle, any remaining transmitters  
must also be matched. Once your dealer has coded  
the new transmitter, the lost transmitter will not unlock  
your vehicle. Each vehicle can have a maximum of four  
transmitters matched to it.  
When replacing the battery, use care not to  
touch any of the circuitry. Static from your  
body transferred to these surfaces may damage  
the transmitter.  
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4. Put the two halves back together. Make sure the  
cover is on tightly, so water won’t get in.  
Replacing the Battery in the Remote  
Keyless Entry System Transmitter  
5. Check the operation of the transmitter with your  
vehicle. If the transmitter does not work, try  
resynchronizing the transmitter with the receiver.  
Resynchronization  
Your remote keyless entry system is equipped with a  
security system that prevents anyone from recording and  
playing back your signal. The transmitter does not send  
the same signal twice to the receiver. The receiver will  
not respond to a signal that has been sent to it more  
than once.  
Normally, the transmitter and receiver resynchronize  
automatically. However, under certain circumstances,  
manual resynchronization may be required.  
To replace the battery in the transmitter:  
To resynchronize your transmitter and receiver,  
follow these directions:  
1. Use a coin or similar object to separate the bottom  
half from the top half of the transmitter.  
1. Stand close to your vehicle.  
2. Press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons  
on the transmitter at the same time.  
2. Remove the battery and replace it with the new one.  
Make sure the positive side of the battery faces  
down. For battery replacement, use a three-volt  
battery, type CR2032, or equivalent.  
3. Hold the buttons for at least 10 seconds. During  
this time, the doors should lock and unlock once.  
This confirms the resynchronization. If the doors  
do not lock and unlock, see your dealer for service.  
3. Read the instructions inside the case.  
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Trunk  
CAUTION: (Continued)  
To unlock the trunk from the outside, insert the key and  
turn the trunk lock cylinder or use the remote keyless  
entry transmitter (if equipped).  
If you must drive with the trunk lid open or if  
electrical wiring or other cable connections must  
pass through the seal between the body and the  
trunk lid:  
When closing the trunk, close from the center to ensure  
that it is fully secured.  
Make sure all other windows are shut.  
Turn the fan on your heating or cooling  
system to its highest speed with the setting  
on any airflow selection except maximum.  
That will force outside air into your vehicle.  
See “Comfort Controls” in the Index.  
If you have air outlets on or under the  
instrument panel, open them all the way.  
CAUTION:  
It can be dangerous to drive with the trunk lid  
open because carbon monoxide (CO) gas can  
come into your vehicle. You can’t see or smell CO.  
It can cause unconsciousness and even death.  
CAUTION: (Continued)  
See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index.  
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Remote Trunk Release  
Remote Trunk Release Lockout  
Your remote trunk release is equipped with a lockout  
feature. The switch is located on the inside of the trunk  
lid, mounted to the trunk lid latch.  
Press the remote trunk release button, located on the  
lower left side of the instrument panel, to release the  
trunk lid.  
If your vehicle is equipped with the remote keyless entry  
system, the daytime running lamps will flash twice.  
To turn the lockout on, slide the switch all the way to the  
left, to ON. To turn the lockout off, slide the switch all  
the way to the right to OFF.  
Make sure the remote trunk release lockout feature  
is not activated. Also, the remote trunk release will  
only work when either the ignition is in OFF or  
ACCESSORY or the vehicle speed is less than  
2 mph (3 km/h).  
When the lockout is on, the remote trunk release button  
will not release the trunk lid. However, the trunk lid can  
still be opened with the key, but not with the keyless  
entry transmitter (if equipped).  
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There is a glow-in-the-dark trunk release handle  
located on the inside of the trunk lid of your vehicle.  
This handle will glow following exposure to light.  
Pull the release handle up to open the trunk from  
the inside.  
Trunk Release Handle  
Trap-Resistant Trunk Kit  
To help prevent a child from becoming trapped in your  
trunk, you can order a trap-resistant trunk kit from  
your dealer. This kit includes:  
a modified trunk latch,  
a lighted release handle, and  
seatback tethers (for vehicles with folding  
rear seatbacks).  
See your dealer for additional information.  
NOTICE:  
The trunk release handle was not designed to be  
used to tie down the trunk lid or as an anchor  
point when securing items in the trunk. Improper  
use of the trunk release handle could damage it.  
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Parking Lots  
Theft  
Even if you park in a lot where someone will be  
watching your vehicle, it’s still best to lock it up and  
take your keys. But what if you have to leave your key?  
Vehicle theft is big business, especially in some cities.  
Although your vehicle has a number of theft-deterrent  
features, we know that nothing we put on it can make it  
impossible to steal. However, there are ways you can help.  
If possible, park in a busy, well-lit area.  
Put your valuables in a storage area, like your trunk  
or glove box.  
Key in the Ignition  
If you leave your vehicle with the keys inside, it’s an  
easy target for joy riders or professional thieves -- so  
don’t do it.  
Be sure to close and lock the storage area.  
Close all windows.  
When you park your vehicle and open the driver’s door,  
you’ll hear a chime reminding you to remove your key  
from the ignition and take it with you. Always do this.  
Your steering wheel will be locked, and so will your  
ignition. If you take the key with you, and you have an  
automatic transaxle, it will be locked. And remember to  
lock the doors.  
Move the trunk release lockout switch to OFF.  
Lock the glove box.  
Lock all the doors except the driver’s.  
If your vehicle has a remote keyless entry system,  
take the transmitter with you.  
Parking at Night  
Park in a lighted spot, close all windows and lock your  
vehicle. Remember to keep your valuables out of sight.  
Put them in a storage area, or take them with you.  
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Disarming the System  
If the system is armed, pressing the UNLOCK button  
on the transmitter will disarm the system. The THEFT  
SYSTEM light will stop flashing.  
Content Theft Security System  
(If Equipped)  
Arming the System  
With the ignition off, pressing the transmitter LOCK  
button will arm the system immediately after all doors  
and trunk are closed. If the transmitter LOCK button is  
pressed again within five seconds, the horn will chirp to  
confirm that the system has been armed.  
If the system is armed, turning the key to START will  
also disarm the system.  
If the system is armed and the trunk is opened using the  
trunk release button on the transmitter, the system will  
temporarily disarm itself and re-arm when the trunk  
has been closed. This allows the customer to exit the  
vehicle, lock the doors using the transmitter, and open  
the trunk using the transmitter without having to disarm  
and subsequently re-arm the system.  
Once the system is armed, the THEFT SYSTEM light  
on your instrument panel will flash and remain flashing.  
This confirms the system is armed and monitoring the  
doors and trunk. If the light is on solid, the system is  
not properly activated due to either a door or the trunk  
being ajar.  
How the System Alarm is Activated  
If the system is armed, opening any door or the trunk,  
or using a wrong key to start the vehicle will cause a  
pre-alarm chirp for 10 seconds and then a full alarm  
of horn and headlights for two minutes.  
If you don’t want to arm the system, lock the car with  
the lock levers on the doors or with the door lock switch.  
If an alarm event has finished and all doors and the  
trunk are closed, the content theft security system  
will re-arm itself.  
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How to Turn Off the System Alarm  
Passlock  
If the system alarm is active, it can be deactivated by  
doing the following:  
Your vehicle is equipped with the Passlock  
theft-deterrent system.  
Pressing the transmitter LOCK or panic button to  
turn off the alarm. The system will also re-arm if all  
doors and trunk are later closed, or  
Passlock is a passive theft-deterrent system. Passlock  
enables fuel if the ignition lock cylinder is turned with a  
valid key. If a correct key is not used or the ignition lock  
cylinder is tampered with, fuel is disabled.  
pressing the transmitter UNLOCK or trunk button  
to turn off the alarm and disarm the system, or  
During normal operation, the THEFT SYSTEM light  
will go off approximately five seconds after the key is  
turned RUN following an engine start.  
putting the key in the ignition and turning it to  
START to turn off the alarm and disarm the system.  
If the engine stalls and the THEFT SYSTEM light  
flashes, wait until the light stops flashing before trying  
to restart the engine. Remember to release the key from  
START as soon as the engine starts.  
How to Detect a Tamper Condition  
If you hear three horn chirps when you press the  
UNLOCK, LOCK or trunk release button on your  
transmitter that means the content theft security  
system alarm was triggered while you were away.  
If the engine is running and the THEFT SYSTEM light  
comes on, you will be able to restart the engine if you  
turn the engine off. However, your Passlock system is  
not working properly and must be serviced by your  
dealer. Your vehicle is not protected by Passlock at this  
time. You may also want to check the fuse (see “Fuses  
and Circuit Breakers” in the Index). See your dealer for  
service. Also, see “Roadside Assistance” in the Index  
for more information.  
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New Vehicle “Break-In”  
NOTICE:  
Ignition Positions  
With the key in the ignition switch, you can turn the key  
to five positions.  
Your vehicle doesn’t need an elaborate  
“break-in.” But it will perform better in  
the long run if you follow these guidelines:  
Don’t drive at any one speed -- fast or  
slow -- for the first 500 miles (805 km).  
Don’t make full-throttle starts.  
Avoid making hard stops for the first  
200 miles (322 km) or so. During this time  
your new brake linings aren’t yet broken  
in. Hard stops with new linings can mean  
premature wear and earlier replacement.  
Follow this breaking-in guideline every  
time you get new brake linings.  
Don’t tow a trailer during break-in.  
See “Towing a Trailer” in the Index for  
more information.  
A (ACCESSORY): This position operates your  
electrical accessories. Press in the ignition switch as you  
turn it toward you.  
B (LOCK): This position locks your steering wheel,  
ignition, shift lever and transaxle. This is the only  
position from which you can remove the key. A warning  
chime will sound if you open the driver’s door when the  
ignition is in LOCK and the key is in the ignition.  
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C (OFF): This position unlocks the steering wheel,  
ignition and transaxle, but does not send power to any  
accessories. Use this position if your vehicle must be  
pushed or towed, but never try to push-start your  
vehicle. A warning chime will sound if you open the  
driver’s door when the ignition is in OFF and the key  
is in the ignition.  
CAUTION:  
On manual transaxle vehicles, turning the key to  
LOCK will lock the steering column and result  
in a loss of ability to steer the vehicle. This could  
cause a collision. If you need to turn the engine  
off while the vehicle is moving, turn the key only  
to OFF. Don’t press the key release button while  
the vehicle is moving.  
D (RUN): This is the position to which the switch  
returns after you start your engine and release the  
switch. The switch stays in RUN when the engine is  
running. But even when the engine is not running,  
you can use RUN to operate your electrical accessories,  
and to display some instrument panel warning lights.  
E (START): This position starts the engine. When the  
engine starts, release the key. The ignition switch will  
return to RUN for normal driving.  
NOTICE:  
If your key seems stuck in LOCK and you can’t  
turn it, be sure you are using the correct key;  
if so, is it all the way in? If it is, then turn the  
steering wheel left and right while you turn the  
key hard. Turn the key only with your hand.  
Using a tool to force it could break the key or the  
ignition switch. If none of this works, then your  
vehicle needs service.  
Even if the engine is not running, the positions  
ACCESSORY and RUN allow you to operate your  
electrical accessories, such as the radio.  
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Key Release Button (Manual Transaxle)  
Starting Your Engine  
The ignition key cannot be  
removed from the ignition  
unless the key release  
button is used.  
Automatic Transaxle  
Move your shift lever to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N).  
Your engine won’t start in any other position -- that’s  
a safety feature. To restart when you’re already moving,  
use NEUTRAL (N) only.  
NOTICE:  
Don’t try to shift to PARK (P) if your vehicle  
is moving. If you do, you could damage the  
transaxle. Shift to PARK (P) only when your  
vehicle is stopped.  
To remove the key, turn the key to OFF. Then, while  
pressing the key release button in, turn the key to LOCK  
and pull it straight out.  
Manual Transaxle  
Retained Accessory Power (RAP)  
The gear selector should be in neutral and the parking  
brake engaged. Hold the clutch pedal to the floor and  
start the engine. Your vehicle won’t start if the clutch  
pedal is not all the way down -- that’s a safety feature.  
Your vehicle is equipped with a Retained Accessory Power  
(RAP) feature which will allow the radio to continue to  
work up to 10 minutes after the ignition is turned to OFF.  
Your radio will work when the ignition key is in  
RUN or ACCESSORY. Once the key is turned from  
RUN to OFF, the radio will continue to work for up to  
10 minutes or until the driver’s door is opened.  
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When your engine has run about 10 seconds to warm  
up, your vehicle is ready to be driven. Don’t “race”  
your engine when it’s cold.  
Starting Your 2.2L L4 (LN2) or  
ECOTEC (L61) Engine  
1. With your foot off the accelerator pedal, turn your  
ignition key to START. When the engine starts,  
let go of the key. The idle speed will go down as  
your engine gets warm.  
If the weather is below freezing (32 F or 0 C),  
let the engine run for a few minutes to warm up.  
3. If your engine still won’t start (or starts but then  
stops), it could be flooded with too much gasoline.  
Try pushing your accelerator pedal all the way to  
the floor and holding it there as you hold the key in  
START for about three seconds. If the vehicle starts  
briefly but then stops again, do the same thing, but  
this time keep the pedal down for five or six seconds.  
This clears the extra gasoline from the engine.  
NOTICE:  
Holding your key in START for longer than  
15 seconds at a time will cause your battery to  
be drained much sooner. And the excessive heat  
can damage your starter motor. Wait about  
15 seconds between each try to help avoid  
draining your battery or damaging your starter.  
NOTICE:  
Your engine is designed to work with the  
electronics in your vehicle. If you add electrical  
parts or accessories, you could change the way  
the engine operates. Before adding electrical  
equipment, check with your dealer. If you don’t,  
your engine might not perform properly.  
2. If it doesn’t start, wait about 15 seconds and try  
again to start the engine by turning the ignition key  
to START. Wait about 15 seconds between each try.  
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3. If your engine still won’t start (or starts but then  
stops), it could be flooded with too much gasoline.  
Try pushing your accelerator pedal all the way to  
the floor and holding it there as you hold the key in  
START for a maximum of 15 seconds. This clears  
the extra gasoline from the engine. If the engine still  
won’t start or starts briefly but then stops again,  
repeat Step 1 or 2, depending on temperature.  
When the engine starts, release the key and the  
accelerator pedal.  
Starting Your 2.4L L4 (LD9) Engine  
1. With your foot off the accelerator pedal, turn your  
ignition key to START. When the engine starts,  
let go of the key. The idle speed will go down as  
your engine warms up.  
NOTICE:  
Holding your key in START for longer than  
15 seconds at a time will cause your battery to  
be drained much sooner. And the excessive heat  
can damage your starter motor. Wait about  
15 seconds between each try to help avoid  
draining your battery or damaging your starter.  
NOTICE:  
Your engine is designed to work with the  
electronics in your vehicle. If you add electrical  
parts or accessories, you could change the way  
the engine operates. Before adding electrical  
equipment, check with your dealer. If you don’t,  
your engine might not perform properly.  
2. If the engine doesn’t start in 10 seconds, or if the  
weather is very cold (below -20 F or -29 C),  
push the accelerator pedal about one-quarter of the  
way down while you turn the key to START. Do this  
until the engine starts. As soon as it does, let go of  
the key.  
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Engine Coolant Heater (If Equipped)  
2.4L L4 (LD9) and 2.2L L4 ECOTEC (L61) Engine  
In very cold weather, 0 F (-18 C) or colder,  
the engine coolant heater can help. You’ll get easier  
starting and better fuel economy during engine  
warm-up. Usually, the coolant heater should be  
plugged in a minimum of four hours prior to starting  
your vehicle. At temperatures above 32 F (0 C),  
use of the coolant heater is not required.  
2.2L L4 (LN2) Engine  
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4. Before starting the engine, be sure to unplug and  
store the cord as it was before to keep it away  
from moving engine parts. If you don’t, it could  
be damaged.  
To Use the Engine Coolant Heater  
1. Turn off the engine.  
2. Open the hood and unwrap the electrical cord. On a  
vehicle with a 2.2L L4 (LN2) engine, the electrical  
cord is located near the engine oil dipstick. On a  
vehicle with a 2.4L L4 (LD9) or 2.2L L4 ECOTEC  
(L61) engine, the electrical cord is located in front of  
the coolant surge tank on the passenger’s side.  
How long should you keep the coolant heater plugged in?  
The answer depends on the outside temperature, the kind  
of oil you have, and some other things. Instead of  
trying to list everything here, we ask that you contact  
your dealer in the area where you’ll be parking your  
vehicle. The dealer can give you the best advice for that  
particular area.  
3. Plug it into a normal, grounded 110-volt AC outlet.  
CAUTION:  
Plugging the cord into an ungrounded outlet  
could cause an electrical shock. Also, the wrong  
kind of extension cord could overheat and cause  
a fire. You could be seriously injured. Plug the  
cord into a properly grounded three-prong  
110-volt AC outlet. If the cord won’t reach, use a  
heavy-duty three-prong extension cord rated for  
at least 15 amps.  
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Automatic Transaxle Operation  
CAUTION: (Continued)  
If your vehicle is equipped with an automatic transaxle,  
the shift lever is located on the console between the seats.  
vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly  
level ground, always set your parking brake and  
move the shift lever to PARK (P).  
There are seven different positions for the automatic  
transaxle. See “Forward Gears” later in this section.  
See “Shifting Into PARK (P)” in the Index.  
If you’re pulling a trailer, see “Towing a Trailer”  
in the Index.  
PARK (P): This position locks your front wheels.  
It’s the best position to use when you start your  
engine because your vehicle can’t move easily.  
Ensure the shift lever is fully in PARK (P) before  
starting the engine. Your vehicle has an automatic  
transaxle shift lock control system. You have to fully  
apply your regular brakes before you can shift from  
PARK (P) when the ignition key is in RUN. If you  
cannot shift out of PARK (P), ease pressure on the shift  
lever -- push the shift lever all the way into PARK (P)  
and also release the shift lever button on floor shift  
console models as you maintain brake application.  
Then move the shift lever into the gear you wish.  
(Press the shift lever button before moving the shift  
lever.) See “Shifting Out of PARK (P)” in the Index.  
CAUTION:  
It is dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the  
shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the  
parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.  
Don’t leave your vehicle when the engine is  
running unless you have to. If you have left the  
engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly.  
You or others could be injured. To be sure your  
CAUTION: (Continued)  
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REVERSE (R): Use this gear to back up.  
CAUTION:  
NOTICE:  
Shifting out of PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) while  
your engine is “racing” (running at high speed)  
is dangerous. Unless your foot is firmly on the  
brake pedal, your vehicle could move very  
rapidly. You could lose control and hit people  
or objects. Don’t shift out of PARK (P) or  
NEUTRAL (N) while your engine is racing.  
Shifting to REVERSE (R) while your vehicle is  
moving forward could damage your transaxle.  
Shift to REVERSE (R) only after your vehicle  
is stopped.  
To rock your vehicle back and forth to get out of snow,  
ice or sand without damaging your transaxle, see  
“Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow” in the Index.  
NEUTRAL (N): In this position, your engine  
NOTICE:  
doesn’t connect with the wheels. To restart when you’re  
already moving, use NEUTRAL (N) only. Also, use  
NEUTRAL (N) when your vehicle is being towed.  
Damage to your transaxle caused by shifting out  
of PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) with the engine  
racing isn’t covered by your warranty.  
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SECOND (2): This position gives you more power but  
lower fuel economy. You can use SECOND (2) on hills.  
It can help control your speed as you go down steep  
mountain roads, but then you would also want to use  
your brakes off and on.  
Forward Gears  
AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D): This position is for  
normal driving with the automatic transaxle. If you need  
more power for passing, and you’re:  
Going less than about 35 mph (55 km/h), push your  
accelerator pedal about halfway down.  
NOTICE:  
Going about 35 mph (55 km/h), push your  
accelerator all the way down.  
Don’t drive in SECOND (2) for more than  
25 miles (40 km), or at speeds over 55 mph  
(90 km/h), or you can damage your transaxle.  
Use AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D) or  
THIRD (3) as much as possible. Don’t shift  
into SECOND (2) unless you are going slower  
than 65 mph (105 km/h), or you can damage  
your engine.  
THIRD (3): This position is also used for normal  
driving, however, it offers more power and lower fuel  
economy than AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D).  
Here are some times you might choose THIRD (3)  
instead of AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D):  
When driving on hilly, winding roads.  
When going down a steep hill.  
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FIRST (1): This position gives you even more power  
(but lower fuel economy) than SECOND (2). You can  
use it on very steep hills, or in deep snow or mud. If the  
shift lever is put in FIRST (1), the transaxle won’t shift  
into first gear until the vehicle is going slowly enough.  
Manual Transaxle Operation  
Five-Speed  
This is your shift pattern.  
NOTICE:  
If your front wheels can’t rotate, don’t try to  
drive. This might happen if you were stuck in  
very deep sand or mud or were up against a solid  
object. You could damage your transaxle. Also,  
if you stop when going uphill, don’t hold your  
vehicle there with only the accelerator pedal.  
This could overheat and damage the transaxle.  
Use your brakes or shift into PARK (P) to hold  
your vehicle in position on a hill.  
Here’s how to operate your transaxle:  
FIRST (1): Press the clutch pedal and shift into  
FIRST (1). Then, slowly let up on the clutch pedal  
as you press the accelerator pedal.  
You can shift into FIRST (1) when you’re going less  
than 20 mph (32 km/h). If you’ve come to a complete  
stop and it’s hard to shift into FIRST (1), put the shift  
lever in NEUTRAL (N) and let up on the clutch. Press  
the clutch pedal back down. Then shift into FIRST (1).  
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SECOND (2): Press the clutch pedal as you let up  
on the accelerator pedal and shift into SECOND (2).  
Then, slowly let up on the clutch pedal as you press  
the accelerator pedal.  
REVERSE (R): To back up, press down the clutch  
pedal, lift up the ring on the shift lever and shift into  
REVERSE (R). Let up on the clutch pedal slowly while  
pressing the accelerator pedal.  
THIRD (3), FOURTH (4) and FIFTH (5): Shift into  
THIRD (3), FOURTH (4) and FIFTH (5) the same way  
you do for SECOND (2). Slowly let up on the clutch  
pedal as you press the accelerator pedal.  
NOTICE:  
Shift to REVERSE (R) only after your vehicle is  
stopped. Shifting to REVERSE (R) while your  
vehicle is moving could damage your transaxle.  
To stop, let up on the accelerator pedal and press the  
brake pedal. Just before the vehicle stops, press the clutch  
pedal and the brake pedal, and shift to NEUTRAL (N).  
NEUTRAL (N): Use this position when you start or  
idle your engine.  
Also, use REVERSE (R), along with the parking brake,  
for parking your vehicle.  
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Up-Shift Light (Manual Transaxle)  
If you have a manual  
Shift Speeds  
transaxle, you may have a  
light. This light will show  
you when to shift to the  
next higher gear for best  
fuel economy.  
CAUTION:  
If you skip a gear when you downshift, you could  
lose control of your vehicle. You could injure  
yourself or others. Don’t shift down more than  
one gear at a time when you downshift.  
United States Only  
When this light comes on, you can shift to the next  
higher gear if weather, road and traffic conditions let  
you. For the best fuel economy, accelerate slowly and  
shift when the light comes on.  
While you accelerate, it is normal for the light to go  
on and off if you quickly change the position of the  
accelerator. Ignore the light when you downshift.  
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To set the parking brake, hold the brake pedal down and  
pull up on the parking brake lever. If the ignition is on,  
the brake system warning light will come on.  
Parking Brake  
To release the parking brake, hold the brake pedal down.  
Pull the parking brake lever up until you can press the  
release button. Hold the release button in as you move  
the brake lever all the way down.  
If you forget to release your parking brake prior to  
driving away, a chime will sound to remind you to  
release the parking brake.  
NOTICE:  
Driving with the parking brake on can cause  
your rear brakes to overheat. You may have to  
replace them, and you could also damage other  
parts of your vehicle.  
Manual shown, Automatic similar  
The parking brake lever is located between the bucket seats.  
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1. Hold the brake pedal down and set the  
parking brake.  
Shifting Into PARK (P)  
(Automatic Transaxle Only)  
2. Move the shift lever into the PARK (P) position:  
Hold in the button on the lever  
CAUTION:  
Push the lever all the way toward the front  
of your vehicle.  
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if  
the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the  
parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.  
If you have left the engine running, the vehicle  
can move suddenly. You or others could be  
injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move,  
even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the  
steps that follow. If you’re pulling a trailer,  
see “Towing a Trailer” in the Index.  
3. Turn the ignition key to LOCK.  
4. Remove the key and take it with you. If you can  
leave your vehicle with the ignition key in your  
hand, your vehicle is in PARK (P).  
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Leaving Your Vehicle With the Engine  
Running (Automatic Transaxle Only)  
Torque Lock (Automatic Transaxle)  
If you are parking on a hill and you don’t shift your  
transaxle into PARK (P) properly, the weight of the  
vehicle may put too much force on the parking pawl in  
the transaxle. You may find it difficult to pull the shift  
lever out of PARK (P). This is called “torque lock.”  
To prevent torque lock, set the parking brake and then  
shift into PARK (P) properly before you leave the  
driver’s seat. To find out how, see “Shifting Into  
PARK (P)” in the Index.  
CAUTION:  
It can be dangerous to leave your vehicle with  
the engine running. Your vehicle could move  
suddenly if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P)  
with the parking brake firmly set. And, if you  
leave the vehicle with the engine running, it could  
overheat and even catch fire. You or others could  
be injured. Don’t leave your vehicle with the  
engine running unless you have to.  
When you are ready to drive, move the shift lever out  
of PARK (P) before you release the parking brake.  
If torque lock does occur, you may need to have  
another vehicle push yours a little uphill to take some  
of the pressure from the parking pawl in the transaxle,  
so you can pull the shift lever out of PARK (P).  
If you have to leave your vehicle with the engine  
running, be sure your vehicle is in PARK (P) and your  
parking brake is firmly set before you leave it. After  
you’ve moved the shift lever into PARK (P), hold the  
regular brake pedal down. Then, see if you can move the  
shift lever away from PARK (P) without first pushing  
the button. If you can, it means that the shift lever  
wasn’t fully locked into PARK (P).  
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3. Shift to NEUTRAL (N).  
Shifting Out of Park (P)  
(Automatic Transaxle Only)  
Your vehicle has an automatic transaxle shift lock  
control system. You have to fully apply your regular  
brakes before you can shift from PARK (P) when  
the ignition is in RUN. See “Automatic Transaxle”  
in the Index.  
4. Start the vehicle and then shift to the drive gear  
you want.  
5. Have the vehicle fixed as soon as you can.  
Parking Your Vehicle  
(Manual Transaxle Models Only)  
Before leaving your vehicle, fully press the clutch pedal  
in, move the shift lever into REVERSE (R), and firmly  
apply the parking brake. Once the shift lever has been  
placed in REVERSE (R) with the clutch pedal pressed  
in, you can turn the ignition key to OFF, remove the key  
and release the clutch.  
If you cannot shift out of PARK (P), ease pressure on  
the shift lever -- push the shift lever all the way into  
PARK (P) and also release the shift lever button as you  
maintain brake application. Then move the shift lever  
into the gear you wish. (Press the shift lever button  
before moving the shift lever.)  
If you ever hold the brake pedal down, and still can’t  
shift out of PARK (P), try this:  
See “Manual Transaxle Operation” in the Index.  
1. Turn the key to OFF.  
2. Apply and hold the brake until the end of Step 4.  
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Parking Over Things That Burn  
Engine Exhaust  
CAUTION:  
Engine exhaust can kill. It contains the gas  
carbon monoxide (CO), which you can’t see or  
smell. It can cause unconsciousness and death.  
You might have exhaust coming in if:  
Your exhaust system sounds strange  
or different.  
Your vehicle gets rusty underneath.  
Your vehicle was damaged in a collision.  
Your vehicle was damaged when driving over  
high points on the road or over road debris.  
Repairs weren’t done correctly.  
Your vehicle or exhaust system had been  
modified improperly.  
CAUTION:  
If you ever suspect exhaust is coming into  
your vehicle:  
Things that can burn could touch hot exhaust  
parts under your vehicle and ignite. Don’t park  
over papers, leaves, dry grass or other things that  
can burn.  
Drive it only with all the windows down to  
blow out any CO; and  
Have your vehicle fixed immediately.  
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Running Your Engine While You’re  
Parked (Automatic Transaxle)  
CAUTION:  
It’s better not to park with the engine running. But if you  
ever have to, here are some things to know.  
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if  
the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the  
parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.  
Don’t leave your vehicle when the engine is  
running unless you have to. If you’ve left the  
engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly.  
You or others could be injured. To be sure your  
vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly  
level ground, always set your parking brake and  
move the shift lever to PARK (P).  
CAUTION:  
Idling the engine with the climate control  
system off could allow dangerous exhaust into  
your vehicle. See the earlier Caution under  
“Engine Exhaust.”  
Also, idling in a closed-in place can let deadly  
carbon monoxide (CO) into your vehicle even if  
the fan is at the highest setting. One place this can  
happen is a garage. Exhaust -- with CO -- can  
come in easily. NEVER park in a garage with the  
engine running.  
Follow the proper steps to be sure your vehicle won’t  
move. See “Shifting Into PARK (P)” in the Index.  
If you are parking on a hill and if you’re pulling a  
trailer, also see “Towing a Trailer” in the Index.  
Another closed-in place can be a blizzard.  
See “Blizzard” in the Index.  
Horn  
You can sound the horn by pressing the center of  
your steering wheel.  
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Tilt Wheel (If Equipped)  
Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever  
A tilt wheel allows you to adjust the steering wheel  
before you drive. You can raise it to the highest level  
to give your legs more room when you exit and enter  
the vehicle.  
The lever that allows you to tilt the steering wheel is  
located on the left side of the steering column.  
The lever on the left side of the steering column  
includes the following:  
Turn and Lane-Change Signals  
Headlamp High/Low-Beam Changer  
Flash-to-Pass  
Cruise Control (If Equipped)  
To tilt the wheel, hold the wheel and pull the lever.  
Then move the wheel to a comfortable position and  
release the lever to lock the wheel in place.  
For information on the exterior lamps, see “Exterior  
Lamps” later in this section.  
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Turn and Lane-Change Signals  
Headlamp High/Low-Beam Changer  
The turn signal has two upward (for right) and two  
downward (for left) positions. These positions allow  
you to signal a turn or a lane change.  
To change the headlamps from low beam to high, or  
high beam to low, pull the turn signal lever all the way  
toward you. Then release it.  
To signal a turn, move the lever all the way up  
or down. When the turn is finished, the lever will  
return automatically.  
When the high beams  
are on, this light on the  
instrument panel cluster  
will also be on.  
An arrow on the instrument  
panel cluster will flash in  
the direction of the turn  
or lane change.  
Flash-to-Pass  
This feature lets you use your high-beam headlamps  
to signal a driver in front of you that you want to pass.  
To signal a lane change, just raise or lower the lever  
until the arrow starts to flash. Hold it there until you  
complete your lane change. The lever will return by  
itself when you release it.  
To use it, pull the turn signal/multifunction lever  
toward you until the high-beam headlamps come on,  
then release the lever to turn them off.  
As you signal a turn or a lane change, if the arrows  
flash rapidly, a signal bulb may be burned out and  
other drivers won’t see your turn signal.  
If a bulb is burned out, replace it to help avoid an  
accident. If the arrows don’t go on at all when you  
signal a turn, check the fuse (see “Fuses and Circuit  
Breakers” in the Index) and for burned-out bulbs.  
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If your vehicle is equipped with variable delay, you can  
set the wiper speed for a long or short interval between  
wipes. This can be very useful.  
Windshield Wipers  
Move the stalk to DELAY, then turn the inner band and  
choose the delay you want. Turn the inner band up for  
shorter intervals between wiper cycles. Turn the band  
down for a longer interval between wiper cycles.  
If your vehicle is equipped with fixed delay, you can  
use this function by moving the stalk to DELAY.  
Remember that damaged wiper blades may prevent  
you from seeing well enough to drive safely. To avoid  
damage, be sure to clear ice and snow from the wiper  
blades before using them. If they’re frozen to the  
windshield, carefully loosen or thaw them. If your  
blades do become damaged, get new blades or  
blade inserts.  
You control the windshield wipers by moving the stalk  
with the windshield wiper symbol on it up or down.  
Heavy snow or ice can overload your wipers.  
Clear away snow or ice to prevent an overload.  
In case of an overload, the circuit breaker will  
stop the wiper system until the motor cools.  
For a single wiper cycle, push the stalk down to MIST,  
then release it. The wipers will stop after one cycle.  
For more cycles, hold the wiper stalk down longer.  
For steady wiping at low speed, move the wiper stalk  
up to 1. For high-speed wiping, move the stalk up to 2.  
To stop the wipers, move the stalk to OFF.  
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Windshield Washer  
Cruise Control (If Equipped)  
To wash your windshield, pull the stalk with the wiper  
symbol on it toward you one time. When you release the  
stalk, the washers will stop. The wipers continue wiping  
for approximately three cycles and will either stop or  
will resume the speed you were using before.  
CAUTION:  
In freezing weather, don’t use your washer until  
the windshield is warmed. Otherwise the washer  
fluid can form ice on the windshield, blocking  
your vision.  
With cruise control, you can maintain a speed of  
about 25 mph (40 km/h) or more without keeping  
your foot on the accelerator. This can really help on  
long trips. Cruise control does not work at speeds  
below 25 mph (40 km/h).  
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When you apply your brakes, or the clutch pedal if you  
have a manual transaxle, the cruise control shuts off.  
Setting Cruise Control  
CAUTION:  
CAUTION:  
If you leave your cruise control switch on when  
you’re not using cruise, you might hit a button  
and go into cruise when you don’t want to.  
You could be startled and even lose control.  
Keep the cruise control switch off until you  
want to use cruise control.  
Cruise control can be dangerous where  
you can’t drive safely at a steady speed.  
So, don’t use your cruise control on  
winding roads or in heavy traffic.  
Cruise control can be dangerous on  
slippery roads. On such roads, fast changes  
in tire traction can cause needless wheel  
spinning, and you could lose control.  
Don’t use cruise control on slippery roads.  
1. Move the cruise control switch to ON.  
2. Get up to the speed you want.  
3. Push the SET button at the end of the lever  
and release it.  
If your vehicle is in cruise control when the optional  
enhanced traction system begins to limit wheel spin,  
the cruise control will automatically disengage.  
See “Enhanced Traction System” in the Index.  
When road conditions allow you to safely use it  
again, you may turn the cruise control back on.  
4. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal.  
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Resuming a Set Speed  
Move the cruise control switch from ON to R/A.  
Hold it there until you get up to the speed you want,  
and then release the switch. To increase your speed  
in very small amounts, briefly move the switch to  
R/A then release it. Each time you do this, your  
vehicle will go about 1 mph (1.6 km/h) faster.  
Suppose you set your cruise control at a desired speed  
and then you apply the brake or clutch pedal. This, of  
course, shuts off the cruise control. But you don’t need  
to reset it. Once you’re going about 25 mph (40 km/h)  
or more, you can briefly move the cruise control switch  
from ON to R/A.  
Reducing Speed While Using Cruise Control  
You’ll go right back up to your chosen speed and  
stay there.  
There are two ways to reduce your speed while using  
cruise control:  
If you briefly hold the switch at R/A, the vehicle will  
keep going faster until you release the switch or apply  
the brake or clutch pedal. So unless you want to go  
faster, do not hold the switch at R/A.  
Push in the button at the end of the lever until you  
reach the lower speed you want, then release it.  
To slow down in very small amounts, briefly press  
the button. Each time you do this, you’ll go about  
1 mph (1.6 km/h) slower.  
Increasing Speed While Using Cruise Control  
There are two ways to go to a higher speed:  
Passing Another Vehicle While Using Cruise Control  
Use the accelerator pedal to get to a higher speed.  
Push the SET button at the end of the lever,  
then release the button and the accelerator pedal.  
You’ll now cruise at the higher speed.  
Use the accelerator pedal to increase your speed. When  
you take your foot off the pedal, your vehicle will slow  
down to the cruise control speed you set earlier.  
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Using Cruise Control on Hills  
Exterior Lamps  
How well your cruise control will work on hills depends  
upon your speed, load and the steepness of the hills.  
When going up a steep hill, you may have to step on the  
accelerator pedal to maintain your speed. When going  
downhill, you may have to brake or shift to a lower gear  
to keep your speed down. Of course, applying the  
brake or clutch pedal takes you out of cruise control.  
Many drivers find this to be too much trouble and  
don’t use cruise control on steep hills.  
Ending Cruise Control  
There are several ways to turn off the cruise control:  
step lightly on the brake pedal, or push the  
clutch pedal if you have a manual transaxle, or  
The exterior lamp band on the turn signal/multifunction  
lever controls the exterior lamps.  
move the cruise switch to OFF.  
Erasing Speed Memory  
The exterior lamp band has three positions:  
When you turn off the cruise control or the ignition,  
your cruise control set speed memory is erased.  
OFF: Turning the band to this position turns off all  
lamps, except the Daytime Running Lamps (DRL).  
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The DRL system will make your high and low-beam  
headlamps come on at a reduced brightness in daylight  
when the following conditions are met:  
(Parking Lamps): Turning the band to this position  
turns on the parking lamps together with the following:  
Sidemarker Lamps  
Taillamps  
The ignition is on,  
the exterior lamp band is in OFF or in the parking  
lamp position,  
Instrument Panel Lights  
(Headlamps): Turning the band to this position  
turns on the headlamps together with the previously  
listed lamps and lights:  
the parking brake is released, and  
the transaxle is not in PARK (P) on models with  
an automatic transaxle only.  
Lamps On Reminder  
If you open the driver’s door with the ignition off and  
the lamps on, you will hear a warning chime.  
This indicator light on your  
instrument panel cluster will  
come on when DRL are on.  
Daytime Running Lamps  
Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) can make it easier  
for others to see the front of your vehicle during  
the day. DRL can be helpful in many different driving  
conditions, but they can be especially helpful in the  
short periods after dawn and before sunset. Fully  
functional daytime running lamps are required on all  
vehicles first sold in Canada.  
A flashing DRL light indicates a possible burned-out  
headlamp, or that the vehicle may need service to repair  
a stuck DRL relay.  
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When the DRL are on, your high and low-beam  
headlamps will be on at a reduced brightness.  
The taillamps, sidemarker and other lamps won’t  
be on. Your instrument panel won’t be lit up either.  
Fog Lamps (If Equipped)  
Use your fog lamps for better vision in foggy or  
misty conditions.  
The button for your fog  
lamps is located next to  
the instrument panel  
brightness control.  
When you turn the exterior lamp band to the headlamp  
position, your high and low-beam headlamps will go  
out, and your low-beam headlamps will come on.  
The other lamps that come on with your headlamps  
will also come on.  
When you turn off the headlamps, the regular lamps  
will go off, and your high and low-beam headlamps  
will come on to the reduced brightness.  
To idle your vehicle with the DRL off, set the parking  
brake. The DRL will stay off until you release the  
parking brake.  
Push the top of the button to turn the fog lamps and  
indicator on. Push the top of the button again to turn  
the fog lamps and indicator off.  
As with any vehicle, you should turn on the regular  
headlamp system when you need it.  
When using fog lamps, the parking lamps or low-beam  
headlamps must be on.  
A light on the button will come on when the fog lamps  
are actually on. Fog lamps will go off whenever the  
high-beam headlamps come on. When the high-beam  
headlamps go off, the fog lamps will come on again.  
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Illuminated Entry  
Interior Lamps  
When you open either front door or open a rear door,  
the lamps inside your vehicle will go on. In addition,  
if your vehicle is equipped with remote keyless entry,  
the light will come on when the remote keyless entry  
UNLOCK button is pressed.  
Instrument Panel Brightness Control  
This feature controls the brightness of the instrument  
panel lights.  
The thumbwheel for this  
feature is located on the  
instrument panel to the left  
of the steering column.  
After you exit the vehicle and all of the doors have  
been closed, the lamps will stay on for an additional  
20 seconds before fading off. The lamps will also fade  
to off when the key is inserted and turned to RUN or  
ACCESSORY, or the lock button on the remote keyless  
entry transmitter is pressed.  
Front Reading Lamps (If Equipped)  
These lamps are located on the rearview mirror.  
Turn each one on and off by pressing its button.  
Map Lamps (If Equipped)  
Turn the thumbwheel up to brighten the lights or down  
to dim them. Turn the thumbwheel up all the way to turn  
on the interior courtesy lamps.  
These lamps are located in front of the dome lamp.  
To turn the lamps on, press the button. Press the  
button again to turn them off.  
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Battery Saver  
Mirrors  
Your vehicle is equipped with a battery saver feature  
designed to protect your vehicle’s battery.  
Inside Day/Night Rearview Mirror  
To reduce glare from lamps behind you, move the lever  
toward you to the night position.  
When any interior lamp (trunk, reading, dome, etc.)  
is left on and the ignition is turned off, the battery  
saver system will automatically turn the lamp off  
after 20 minutes. This will avoid draining the battery.  
This system does not protect against leaving on the  
headlamps or parking lamps.  
Manual Remote Control Mirror  
The outside rearview mirror  
should be adjusted so you  
can see a little of the side of  
your vehicle when you are  
sitting in a comfortable  
driving position.  
To reactivate the interior lamps, do one of the following:  
The ignition must be turned on, or  
the activated interior lamp must be turned off,  
then on, or  
any door must be opened.  
The battery saver feature will also be activated when  
any door is left open.  
Adjust the driver’s outside mirror with the control lever  
on the driver’s door.  
To adjust your passenger’s mirror, sit in the driver’s seat  
and have a passenger adjust the mirror for you.  
The mirror is a spring-loaded breakaway design.  
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Power Remote Control Mirrors  
(If Equipped)  
Convex Outside Mirror  
Your passenger’s side mirror is convex. A convex  
mirror’s surface is curved so you can see more from  
the driver’s seat.  
The power mirror control is  
located on the driver’s door.  
CAUTION:  
A convex mirror can make things (like other  
vehicles) look farther away than they really are.  
If you cut too sharply into the right lane, you  
could hit a vehicle on your right. Check your  
inside mirror or glance over your shoulder  
before changing lanes.  
Turn the control clockwise or counterclockwise to  
choose the mirror you want to adjust. Then move the  
control in the direction you want the mirror to move.  
Adjust each mirror so you can see a little of the side  
of your vehicle when you are sitting in a comfortable  
driving position.  
The mirror has a spring-loaded breakaway design.  
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If the mirror control lever is unable to operate the mirror  
adjustment, you can reset the adjustment lever on the  
driver’s side mirror only, by following these steps:  
Breakaway Mirror  
1. Roll down the driver’s door window.  
2. Fold the mirror toward the front of the vehicle.  
Hold the mirror in position with your left hand.  
3. With your right hand, move the adjustment lever  
handle (inside the vehicle) in order to align the  
T end of the lever with the lever slide.  
4. Fold the mirror back to the original position in order  
to engage the T end of the lever with the lever slide.  
5. Make sure the mirror housing is fully seated to  
its base.  
A. Adjustment Lever T End  
B. Lever Slide  
C. Mirror  
D. Spring  
E. Adjustment Lever Handle  
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Convenience Net (If Equipped)  
Storage Compartments  
Your vehicle may have a convenience net. You’ll see it  
inside the back wall of the trunk. Put small loads, like  
grocery bags, behind the net. It can help keep them from  
falling over during sharp turns or quick starts and stops.  
Center Console Storage Area  
To open the center console, pull the lift lever up and  
the lid back.  
To close the center console, press the lid down  
until it clicks.  
Un-clip a corner of the convenience net to fit larger  
objects behind the net, then reclip it to secure them in  
place. The net isn’t for larger, heavier loads. Store them  
in the trunk as far forward as you can.  
Center Console Cupholders  
There are two cupholders located at the front of the  
center console, in front of the shift lever. There are also  
cupholders for the rear seat passengers located under  
the center console lid. Open the center console lid all  
the way to uncover the rear cupholders. There is a  
large, removable cupholder located inside of the  
center console.  
You can unhook the net so that it will lie flat when  
you’re not using it.  
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Ashtrays and Cigarette Lighter  
Sun Visors  
To use the lighter, push it in all the way and let go.  
When it’s ready, it will pop back out by itself.  
To block out glare, you can swing down the visors.  
You can also swing them to the side.  
Accessory Power Outlet  
The accessory power outlet can be used to connect  
electrical equipment such as a cellular phone or  
CB radio.  
NOTICE:  
Don’t hold a cigarette lighter in with your hand  
while it is heating. If you do, it won’t be able to  
back away from the heating element when it’s  
ready. That can make it overheat, damaging the  
lighter and the heating element.  
The accessory power outlet is located on the lower  
console on the passenger’s side.  
To use the outlet, remove the cover. When not in use,  
always cover the outlet with the protective cap.  
To clean the center console ashtray, remove the entire  
ashtray and empty it. The ashtray can be placed in the  
rear cupholder for the rear seat passengers to use.  
NOTICE:  
When using the accessory outlet:  
The maximum load of any electrical  
equipment should not exceed five amps.  
Be sure to turn off any electrical  
equipment when not in use. Leaving  
electrical equipment on for extended  
periods can drain your battery.  
NOTICE:  
Don’t put papers and other things that burn  
into your ashtrays. If you do, cigarettes or  
other smoking materials could set them on fire,  
causing damage.  
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Certain electrical accessories may not be compatible  
with the accessory power outlet and could result in  
blown vehicle or adapter fuses. If you experience a  
problem, see your dealer for additional information  
on the accessory power outlet.  
Sunroof (If Equipped)  
With the ignition on,  
press and release the  
rear of the switch and the  
glass panel will open to  
the vent position.  
NOTICE:  
Adding some electrical equipment to your vehicle  
can damage it or keep other things from working  
as they should. This wouldn’t be covered by  
your warranty.  
Open the sunshade by hand when using the vent position.  
When adding electrical equipment, be sure to follow the  
installation instructions included with the equipment.  
Press and release the rear of the switch again to open  
the glass panel and the sunshade. Press the front of  
the switch to stop the panel in any position.  
NOTICE:  
Press and hold the front of the switch to close the  
glass panel. The sunshade can only be closed by hand.  
Power outlets are designed for accessory plugs  
only. Do not hang any type of accessory or  
accessory bracket from the plug.  
The sunroof glass panel cannot be opened or closed  
if your vehicle has an electrical failure.  
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The Instrument Panel -- Your Information System  
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The main components of your instrument panel are the following:  
A. Fog Lamp Button (If Equipped)  
B. Instrument Panel Brightness Control  
C. Enhanced Traction System Switch  
D. Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever  
E. Instrument Panel Cluster  
J. Climate Controls and Rear Window Defogger  
K. Fuse Panel  
L. Remote Trunk Release Button  
M. Hood Release Lever  
N. Cupholder  
F. Hazard Warning Flashers Switch  
G. Ignition Switch  
O. Parking Brake Lever  
P. Shift Lever  
H. Windshield Wiper/Washer Controls  
I. Audio System  
Q. Accessory Power Outlet  
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Instrument Panel Cluster  
Your instrument cluster is designed to let you know at a glance how your vehicle is running. You’ll know how  
fast you’re going, about how much fuel you’ve used, and many other things you’ll need to know to drive safely  
and economically.  
United States Cluster shown, Canada similar  
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Press it again to see the mileage since the trip odometer  
was last reset. The display will show the mileage for  
about five seconds.  
Speedometer and Odometer  
Your speedometer lets you see your speed in both  
miles per hour (mph) and kilometers per hour (km/h).  
Your odometer shows how far your vehicle has been  
driven, in either miles (used in the United States) or  
kilometers (used in Canada).  
The trip odometer reset button is located next to the  
odometer. By pressing the reset button, you can alternate  
between the season odometer and the trip odometer.  
To reset the trip odometer, press and hold the reset  
button for one to two seconds.  
Your odometer can be seen when the vehicle is  
running. To view it when the ignition is off, press  
the trip odometer button located near the display.  
The mileage will display for about five seconds.  
Tachometer  
The tachometer displays the  
engine speed in revolutions  
per minute (rpm).  
You may wonder what happens if your vehicle needs  
a new odometer installed.  
If the new one can be set to the mileage total of the old  
odometer, then it must be. But if it can’t, then it’s set  
at zero and a label must be put on the driver’s door to  
show the old mileage reading when the new odometer  
was installed.  
Trip Odometer  
The trip odometer can tell you how far your vehicle has  
been driven since you last reset the trip odometer to zero.  
NOTICE:  
Your trip odometer can be seen when the vehicle is  
running. To view it when the ignition is off, press the trip  
odometer button located near the display. You will first  
see the total miles your vehicle has traveled.  
Do not operate the engine with the tachometer in  
the red area, or engine damage may occur.  
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When one of the warning lights comes on and stays on  
when you are driving, or when one of the gages shows  
there may be a problem, check the section that tells you  
what to do about it. Please follow this manual’s advice.  
Waiting to do repairs can be costly -- and even  
dangerous. So please get to know your warning lights  
and gages. They’re a big help.  
Warning Lights, Gages and Indicators  
This part describes the warning lights and gages that  
may be on your vehicle. The pictures will help you  
locate them.  
Warning lights and gages can signal that something is  
wrong before it becomes serious enough to cause an  
expensive repair or replacement. Paying attention to  
your warning lights and gages could also save you or  
others from injury.  
Safety Belt Reminder Light  
When the key is turned to RUN or START, a chime will  
come on for about eight seconds to remind people to  
fasten their safety belts, unless the driver’s safety belt is  
already buckled.  
Warning lights come on when there may be or is a  
problem with one of your vehicle’s functions. As you  
will see in the details on the next few pages, some  
warning lights come on briefly when you start the  
engine just to let you know they’re working. If you are  
familiar with this section, you should not be alarmed  
when this happens.  
The safety belt light will  
also come on and stay on  
for about 20 seconds,  
then it will flash for  
about 55 seconds.  
Gages can indicate when there may be or is a problem  
with one of your vehicle’s functions. Often gages and  
warning lights work together to let you know when  
there’s a problem with your vehicle.  
If the driver’s belt is already buckled, neither the chime  
nor the light will come on.  
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Air Bag Readiness Light  
CAUTION:  
There is an air bag readiness light on the instrument  
panel, which shows the air bag symbol. The system  
checks the air bag’s electrical system for malfunctions.  
The light tells you if there is an electrical problem.  
The system check includes the air bag sensor, the air  
bag modules, the wiring and the crash sensing and  
diagnostic module. For more information on the air bag  
system, see “Air Bag” in the Index.  
If the air bag readiness light stays on after you  
start your vehicle, it means the air bag system  
may not be working properly. The air bags in  
your vehicle may not inflate in a crash, or they  
could even inflate without a crash. To help avoid  
injury to yourself or others, have your vehicle  
serviced right away if the air bag readiness light  
stays on after you start your vehicle.  
This light will come on  
when you start your vehicle,  
and it will flash for a few  
seconds. Then the light  
should go out. This means  
the system is ready.  
The air bag readiness light should flash for a few  
seconds when you turn the ignition key to RUN.  
If the light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so  
it will be ready to warn you if there is a problem.  
If the air bag readiness light stays on after you start the  
vehicle or comes on when you are driving, your air bag  
system may not work properly. Have your vehicle  
serviced right away.  
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Charging System Light  
Brake System Warning Light  
Your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system is divided into  
two parts. If one part isn’t working, the other part can  
still work and stop you. For good braking, though,  
you need both parts working well.  
The charging system light  
will come on briefly when  
you turn on the ignition,  
and the engine is not  
running, as a check to  
show you it is working.  
If the warning light comes on, there is a brake problem.  
Have your brake system inspected right away.  
Then it should go out when the engine is started.  
If it stays on, or comes on while you are driving, you  
may have a problem with the electrical charging system.  
It could indicate that you have a loose generator drive  
belt, or another electrical problem. Have it checked  
right away. Driving while this light is on could drain  
your battery.  
United States  
Canada  
If you must drive a short distance with the light on,  
be certain to turn off all your accessories, such as the  
radio and air conditioner.  
This light should come on briefly when you turn the  
ignition key to RUN. If it doesn’t come on then,  
have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there’s  
a problem.  
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If the light comes on while you are driving, pull off the  
road and stop carefully. You may notice that the pedal is  
harder to push. Or, the pedal may go closer to the floor.  
It may take longer to stop. If the light is still on, have the  
vehicle towed for service. See “Towing Your Vehicle” in  
the Index.  
Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light  
With the anti-lock brake  
system, the light will  
come on when your  
engine is started and may  
stay on for several seconds.  
That’s normal.  
CAUTION:  
If the light stays on, turn the ignition to OFF. Or, if the  
light comes on when you’re driving, stop as soon as  
possible and turn the ignition off. Then start the engine  
again to reset the system. If the light still stays on, or  
comes on again while you’re driving, your vehicle needs  
service. If the regular brake system warning light isn’t  
on, you still have brakes, but you don’t have anti-lock  
brakes. If the regular brake system warning light is  
also on, you don’t have anti-lock brakes and there’s a  
problem with your regular brakes. See “Brake System  
Warning Light” earlier in this section.  
Your brake system may not be working properly  
if the brake system warning light is on. Driving  
with the brake system warning light on can lead  
to an accident. If the light is still on after you’ve  
pulled off the road and stopped carefully, have  
the vehicle towed for service.  
When the ignition is on, the brake system warning light  
will also come on when you set your parking brake.  
The light will stay on if your parking brake doesn’t  
release fully. If it stays on after your parking brake is  
fully released, it means you have a brake problem.  
The anti-lock brake system warning light should come  
on briefly when you turn the ignition key to RUN.  
If the light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it  
will be ready to warn you if there is a problem.  
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The Enhanced Traction System warning light may come  
on for the following reasons:  
Enhanced Traction System Warning Light  
(If Equipped)  
If you turn the system off by pressing the button  
located on the instrument panel, the warning light  
will come on and stay on. To turn the system back  
on, press the button again. The warning light should  
go off. See “Enhanced Traction System” in the  
Index for more information.  
The warning light will come on when you set your  
parking brake with the engine running, and it will  
stay on if your parking brake doesn’t release fully.  
If the system is turned on and the warning light  
stays on after your parking brake is fully released,  
it means there’s a problem with the system.  
United States  
Canada  
With the Enhanced Traction System (ETS), this warning  
light should come on briefly as you start the engine.  
If the warning light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed  
so it will be ready to warn you if there’s a problem.  
If the traction control system is affected by an  
engine-related problem, the system will turn off  
and the warning light will come on.  
If the warning light stays on, or comes on when you’re  
driving, there may be a problem with your Enhanced  
Traction System and your vehicle may need service.  
When this warning light is on, the system will not limit  
wheel spin. Adjust your driving accordingly.  
If the vehicle is driven on an extremely rough road,  
the warning light may come on momentarily but  
will go off again when the vehicle leaves the  
rough surface.  
If the Enhanced Traction System warning light comes  
on and stays on for an extended period of time when  
the system is turned on and the parking brake is fully  
released, your vehicle needs service.  
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Enhanced Traction System Active Light  
Engine Coolant Temperature Gage  
United States  
Canada  
When your Enhanced Traction System is limiting wheel  
spin, this light will come on. Slippery road conditions  
may exist if the Enhanced Traction System active light  
comes on, so adjust your driving accordingly.  
United States  
Canada  
Your vehicle is equipped with one of these gages.  
With the ignition in RUN, this gage shows the engine  
coolant temperature.  
The light will stay on for a few seconds after the  
Enhanced Traction System stops limiting wheel spin.  
If the gage pointer moves into the red area, your  
engine is too hot! It means that your engine coolant has  
overheated. The CHECK GAGES light should come  
on if this condition exists. See “Check Gages Light”  
later in this section for more information. If you have  
been operating your vehicle under normal conditions,  
you should pull off the road, stop your vehicle and turn  
off the engine as soon as possible.  
The Enhanced Traction System active light also comes  
on briefly when you turn the ignition key to RUN.  
If the light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it  
will be there to tell you when the system is active.  
In “Problems on the Road,” this manual shows what  
to do. See “Engine Overheating” in the Index.  
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Low Coolant Warning Light  
Malfunction Indicator Lamp  
(Check Engine Light)  
This light comes on  
briefly when you turn  
your ignition on.  
If this light comes on and stays on, the coolant level in  
your vehicle is low. If the light is on along with an  
overheat warning, you may have a serious overheating  
problem. See “Engine Coolant Temperature Gage” in  
the Index.  
United States  
Canada  
Your vehicle is equipped with a computer which  
monitors operation of the fuel, ignition and emission  
control systems.  
This system is called OBD II (On-Board  
Diagnostics-Second Generation) and is intended  
to assure that emissions are at acceptable levels  
for the life of the vehicle, helping to produce a  
cleaner environment.  
NOTICE:  
Damage to your engine from neglected coolant  
problems can be costly and is not covered by  
your warranty.  
See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for information  
on what to do. Your vehicle should be serviced as soon  
as possible.  
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The CHECK ENGINE light comes on to indicate that  
there is a problem and service is required. Malfunctions  
often will be indicated by the system before any  
problem is apparent. This may prevent more serious  
damage to your vehicle. This system is also designed  
to assist your service technician in correctly diagnosing  
any malfunction.  
NOTICE:  
Modifications made to the engine, transaxle,  
exhaust, intake or fuel system of your vehicle  
or the replacement of the original tires with  
other than those of the same Tire Performance  
Criteria (TPC) can affect your vehicle’s emission  
controls and may cause the CHECK ENGINE  
light to come on. Modifications to these systems  
could lead to costly repairs not covered by your  
warranty. This may also result in a failure to pass  
a required Emission Inspection/Maintenance test.  
NOTICE:  
If you keep driving your vehicle with this light  
on, after a while, your emission controls may not  
work as well, your fuel economy may not be as  
good and your engine may not run as smoothly.  
This could lead to costly repairs that may not be  
covered by your warranty.  
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This light should come on, as a check to show you it is  
working, when the ignition is on and the engine is not  
running. If the light doesn’t come on, have it repaired.  
This light will also come on during a malfunction in  
one of two ways:  
If the light stops flashing and remains on steady,  
see “If the Light Is On Steady” following.  
If the light continues to flash, when it is safe to do so,  
stop the vehicle. Find a safe place to park your vehicle.  
Turn the key off, wait at least 10 seconds and restart the  
engine. If the light remains on steady, see “If the Light  
Is On Steady” following. If the light is still flashing,  
follow the previous steps, and drive the vehicle to your  
dealer or qualified service center for service.  
Light Flashing -- A misfire condition has been  
detected. A misfire increases vehicle emissions and  
may damage the emission control system on your  
vehicle. Dealer or qualified service center diagnosis  
and service may be required.  
If the Light Is On Steady  
Light On Steady -- An emission control system  
malfunction has been detected on your vehicle.  
Dealer or qualified service center diagnosis and  
service may be required.  
You may be able to correct the emission system  
malfunction by considering the following:  
Did you recently put fuel into your vehicle?  
If so, reinstall the fuel cap, making sure to fully  
install the cap. See “Filling Your Tank” in the Index.  
The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap  
has been left off or improperly installed. A loose or  
missing fuel cap will allow fuel to evaporate into the  
atmosphere. A few driving trips with the cap properly  
installed should turn the light off.  
If the Light Is Flashing  
The following may prevent more serious damage to  
your vehicle:  
Reducing vehicle speed.  
Avoiding hard accelerations.  
Avoiding steep uphill grades.  
Did you just drive through a deep puddle of water?  
If you are towing a trailer, reduce the amount of  
cargo being hauled as soon as it is possible.  
If so, your electrical system may be wet. The condition  
will usually be corrected when the electrical system  
dries out. A few driving trips should turn the light off.  
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Have you recently changed brands of fuel?  
Emissions Inspection and Maintenance Programs  
If so, be sure to fuel your vehicle with quality fuel.  
See “Fuel” in the Index. Poor fuel quality will  
cause your engine not to run as efficiently as designed.  
You may notice this as stalling after start-up, stalling  
when you put the vehicle into gear, misfiring, hesitation  
on acceleration or stumbling on acceleration. (These  
conditions may go away once the engine is warmed up.)  
This will be detected by the system and cause the light  
to turn on.  
Some state/provincial and local governments have  
or may begin programs to inspect the emission  
control equipment on your vehicle. Failure to pass  
this inspection could prevent you from getting a  
vehicle registration.  
Here are some things you need to know in order to  
help your vehicle pass an inspection:  
Your vehicle will not pass this inspection if the  
CHECK ENGINE light is on or not working properly.  
If you experience one or more of these conditions,  
change the fuel brand you use. It will require at least  
one full tank of the proper fuel to turn the light off.  
Your vehicle will not pass this inspection if the OBD  
(on-board diagnostic) system determines that critical  
emission control systems have not been completely  
diagnosed by the system. The vehicle would be  
considered not ready for inspection. This can happen  
if you have recently replaced your battery or if your  
battery has run down. The diagnostic system is designed  
to evaluate critical emission control systems during  
normal driving. This may take several days of routine  
driving. If you have done this and your vehicle still  
does not pass the inspection for lack of OBD system  
readiness, see your dealer or qualified service center to  
prepare the vehicle for inspection.  
If none of the above steps have made the light turn off,  
have your dealer or qualified service center check the  
vehicle. Your dealer has the proper test equipment and  
diagnostic tools to fix any mechanical or electrical  
problems that may have developed.  
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Oil Pressure Light  
CAUTION:  
If you have a low engine oil  
pressure problem, this light  
will stay on after you start  
your engine, or come on  
when you are driving. This  
indicates that your engine is  
not receiving enough oil.  
Don’t keep driving if the oil pressure is low.  
If you do, your engine can become so hot that  
it catches fire. You or others could be burned.  
Check your oil as soon as possible and have  
your vehicle serviced.  
The engine could be low on oil, or could have some  
other oil problem. Have it fixed immediately.  
The oil light could also come on in three other situations:  
NOTICE:  
When the ignition is on but the engine is not running,  
the light will come on as a test to show you it is  
working, but the light will go out when you turn the  
ignition to START. If it doesn’t come on with the  
ignition on, you may have a problem with the fuse  
or bulb. Have it fixed right away.  
Damage to your engine from neglected oil  
problems can be costly and is not covered  
by your warranty.  
If you’re idling at a stop sign, the light may blink on  
and then off.  
If you make a hard stop, the light may come on for  
a moment. This is normal.  
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Service Vehicle Soon Light  
Passlock Warning Light  
This light will come on  
briefly when you turn  
on the ignition.  
United States  
Canada  
It will stay on or come on if it detects a problem on  
the vehicle. If this happens, see your dealers service  
department as soon as possible.  
This light will come on briefly when you turn the key  
to START.  
If the light flashes, the Passlock system has entered a  
tamper mode. If the vehicle fails to start, see “Passlock”  
in the Index.  
On vehicles equipped with the remote keyless entry  
system, when the ignition is off and the security system  
is armed, the light will flash to indicate that the security  
system is active.  
If the light comes on continuously while driving and  
stays on, there may be a problem with the Passlock  
system. Your vehicle will not be protected by Passlock,  
and you should see your dealer.  
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Up-Shift Light (Manual Transaxle)  
Check Gages Light  
This light comes on  
when you need to shift  
to the next higher gear.  
See “Manual Transaxle”  
in the Index.  
United States  
Canada  
United States Only  
This light will come on briefly when you are starting  
the engine. If it comes on and stays on while you are  
driving, check your various gages to see if they are in  
the warning zones or if you are low on fuel.  
See “Engine Coolant Temperature Gage” and  
“Fuel Gage” in this section for more information.  
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Here are four things that some owners ask about.  
None of these show a problem with your fuel gage:  
Fuel Gage  
At the service station, the gas pump shuts off  
before the gage reads full.  
It takes a little more or less fuel to fill up that the  
gage indicated. For example, the gage may have  
indicated the tank was half full, but it actually took  
a little more or less than half the tank’s capacity to  
fill the tank.  
The gage moves a little when you turn a corner or  
speed up.  
United States  
Canada  
The gage doesn’t go back to empty when you  
turn off the ignition.  
Your fuel gage tells you about how much fuel you have  
left. When the indicator nears empty, the CHECK  
GAGES light will come on. You still have about  
1.5 gallons (5.7 L) of fuel left, but you should get  
more soon. See “Check Gages Light” earlier in this  
section for more information.  
For your fuel tank capacity, see “Capacities and  
Specifications” in the Index.  
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Section 3 Comfort Controls and Audio Systems  
In this section, you’ll find out how to operate the comfort control and audio systems offered with your vehicle.  
Be sure to read about the particular systems supplied with your vehicle.  
3-2  
3-4  
3-4  
3-4  
3-5  
3-6  
3-7  
3-7  
Comfort Controls  
Air Conditioning  
Heating  
Defogging and Defrosting  
Rear Window Defogger  
Ventilation System  
Audio Systems  
Setting the Clock for Systems without Radio  
Data System  
Setting the Clock for Systems with Radio  
Data System  
AM-FM Stereo with Cassette Tape Player  
(If Equipped)  
3-13  
AM-FM Stereo with Compact Disc Player  
with Programmable Equalization and Radio  
Data System (RDS) (If Equipped)  
Personal Choice Radio Controls (If Equipped)  
Theft-Deterrent Feature Non-RDS Radios  
(If Equipped)  
3-21  
3-21  
3-21  
Theft-Deterrent Feature RDS Radios  
(If Equipped)  
3-22  
3-22  
3-23  
3-24  
3-24  
3-24  
3-24  
Understanding Radio Reception  
Tips About Your Audio System  
Care of Your Cassette Tape Player  
Care of Your Compact Discs  
Care of Your Compact Disc Player  
Fixed Mast Antenna  
3-7  
3-8  
Chime Level Adjustment (RDS Radios Only)  
3-  
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Fan Knob  
Comfort Controls  
The left knob selects the force of air you want.  
Turn the knob clockwise to increase fan speed and  
counterclockwise to decrease fan speed. To turn the fan  
off, turn the mode knob all the way counterclockwise to  
OFF. In any other setting, the fan will run continuously  
with the ignition on. The fan must be on to run the air  
conditioning compressor.  
This section tells you how to make your air system work  
for you. With these systems, you can control the  
ventilation and heating in your vehicle. Your vehicle  
also has the flow-through ventilation system described  
later in this section.  
Climate Control System  
Temperature Knob  
The center knob changes the temperature of the air  
coming through the system. Turn this knob toward  
red (clockwise) for warmer air. Turn it toward blue  
(counterclockwise) for cooler air.  
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Mode Knob  
(Floor): This setting sends most of the air  
through the ducts near the floor. The rest comes out of  
the defroster and side window vents.  
The right knob has several settings to control the  
direction of airflow. For each setting, select the  
temperature that is comfortable.  
(Defog): This setting allows half of the air to  
go to the floor ducts and half to the defroster and side  
window vents.  
(Maximum): For maximum cooling use this  
setting to recirculate much of the air inside your vehicle  
and send it through the instrument panel outlets. The air  
conditioning compressor will run automatically in this  
setting when it is needed to help cool the air in the  
vehicle. The indicator light will turn on in this mode.  
Operation in this mode during periods of high humidity  
and cool outside temperatures may result in increased  
window fogging. If window fogging is experienced,  
select the defrost mode.  
(Defrost): This setting directs most of the air  
through the defroster and side window vents. Some of  
the air goes to the floor ducts. The air conditioning  
compressor will run automatically in this setting when it  
is needed to help dry the air in the vehicle. The A/C  
indicator light will also be on in the setting.  
Air Conditioning Compressor Button  
(Vent): This setting brings in outside air and directs  
it through the instrument panel outlets.  
Press the A/C button to operate the air conditioner  
compressor. The indicator light above the button will  
glow when the air conditioning compressor is running.  
You don’t have to press the button to run the compressor  
in max or defrost.  
(Bi-Level): This setting brings in outside air and  
directs it two ways. Some air is directed through the  
instrument panel outlets. Most of the air is directed  
through the floor ducts and a little to the defrost and  
side window vents.  
Running the compressor will help reduce vehicle  
interior fogging.  
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Air Conditioning  
Heating  
On very hot days, open the windows long enough  
to let hot, inside air escape. This reduces the time it  
takes for your vehicle to cool down, which should help  
fuel economy.  
On cold days, use floor with the temperature knob all  
the way in the red area. The system will bring in outside  
air, heat it and send it to the floor ducts.  
Your vehicle has heat ducts that are directed toward  
the rear seat. Keep the area under the front seats clear  
of obstructions so the heated air can reach the rear  
seat passengers.  
For quick cool-down on very hot days, use the  
maximum mode setting with the temperature knob all  
the way in the blue area. If this setting is used for long  
periods of time, the air in your vehicle may become too  
dry. The best cool down happens if you start in one of  
the other modes and then switch to maximum.  
If your vehicle has an engine coolant heater, you can use  
it to help your system provide warm air faster when it’s  
cold outside (0 F (-18 C) or lower). An engine coolant  
heater warms the coolant your engine and heating  
system use to provide heat. See “Engine Coolant  
Heater” in the Index.  
For normal cooling on hot days, use vent with the  
temperature knob in the blue area and the A/C button  
pushed in. The system will bring in outside air and  
cool it.  
Defogging and Defrosting  
On cool, but sunny days, the sun may warm your upper  
body, but your lower body may not be warm enough.  
You can use bi-level with the temperature knob in the  
middle and the A/C button pushed in. The system will  
bring in outside air and direct slightly warmer air to  
your lower body. You may notice this temperature  
difference more at some times than others.  
Your system has two settings for clearing the front and  
side windows. To defrost the windows quickly, use  
defrost with the temperature knob all the way in the red  
area. To warm passengers while keeping the windows  
clean, use defog.  
To defog the side windows, set the right control to  
bi-level and the fan control to the highest setting.  
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To defog the side windows while using the air  
conditioner, set the right control to bi-level, the fan  
control to the highest setting, and press the A/C button.  
The rear window defogger uses a warming grid to  
remove fog from the rear window. It is designed to clear  
the center of the rear window first.  
For both systems, aim the side vents toward the side  
windows. For increased airflow to the side vents, close  
the center vents.  
If you turn it on again, the defogger will only run for  
about five minutes before turning off. You can also turn  
it off by pressing the button again.  
Do not attach a temporary vehicle license across the  
defogger grid on the rear window.  
Rear Window Defogger  
Press the button located  
below the air conditioning  
button, to turn the defogger  
on. It will turn itself off  
after about 10 minutes.  
NOTICE:  
Don’t use a razor blade or anything else sharp on  
the inside of the rear window. If you do, you  
could cut or damage the warming grid, and the  
repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.  
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Ventilation Tips  
Ventilation System  
Keep the hood and front air inlet free of ice, snow or  
any other obstruction, such as leaves. The heater and  
defroster will work far better, reducing the chance of  
fogging the inside of your windows.  
For mild outside temperatures when little heating or  
cooling is needed, use vent to direct outside air through  
your vehicle. Your vehicle also has the flow-through  
ventilation system.  
When you enter a vehicle in cold weather, adjust  
the mode knob to floor and the fan to the highest  
speed for a few moments before driving off. This  
helps clear the intake ducts of snow and moisture  
and reduces the chance of fogging the inside of  
your windows.  
Your vehicle’s flow-through ventilation system supplies  
outside air into the vehicle when it is moving. Outside  
air will also enter the vehicle when the air conditioning  
fan is running.  
Keep the air path under the front seats clear  
of objects. This helps air circulate throughout  
your vehicle.  
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Setting the Clock for Systems with Radio  
Data System  
Press and hold HR or MIN for two seconds. Then press  
and hold HR until the correct hour appears. AM will  
appear on the display. Press and hold MIN until the  
correct minute appears. The clock may be set with the  
ignition on or off.  
Audio Systems  
Your audio system has been designed to operate easily  
and give years of listening pleasure. You will get the  
most enjoyment out of it if you acquaint yourself with it  
first. Find out what your audio system can do and how  
to operate all of its controls to be sure you’re getting the  
most out of the advanced engineering that went into it.  
Your vehicle has a feature called Retained Accessory  
Power (RAP). With RAP, you can play your audio  
system even after the ignition is turned off. See  
“Retained Accessory Power (RAP)” in the Index.  
To set the clock to the time of an FM station  
broadcasting Radio Data System (RDS) information,  
press and hold HR and MIN at the same time for two  
seconds until UPDATED and the clock symbol appear  
on the display. If the time is not available from the  
station, NO UPDATE will appear on the display instead.  
Setting the Clock for Systems without Radio  
Data System  
Press and hold HR or MIN for two seconds. Then press  
and hold HR until the correct hour appears. Press and  
hold MIN until the correct minute appears. The clock  
may be set with the ignition on or off.  
RDS clock time is broadcast once a minute. Once you  
have tuned to an RDS broadcast station, it may take a  
few minutes before pressing and holding the HR and  
MIN buttons to result in an update to the clock time.  
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Finding a Station  
AM-FM Stereo with Cassette Tape Player  
(If Equipped)  
AM FM: Press this button to switch between AM, FM1  
and FM2. The display shows your selection.  
TUNE: Turn this knob to choose radio stations.  
SEEK : Press the right arrow to seek to the next  
station and the left arrow to seek to the previous station  
and stay there. The radio will seek to stations with a  
strong signal only.  
To scan stations, press and hold one of the SEEK arrows  
for two seconds until you hear a beep. The radio will go  
to a station, play for a few seconds and flash the station  
frequency, then go on to the next station. Press one of  
the SEEK arrows again to stop scanning. The radio will  
scan to stations with a strong signal only.  
Playing the Radio  
To scan preset stations, press and hold one of the SEEK  
arrows for more than four seconds until you hear  
two beeps. The radio will go to the first preset station  
stored on your pushbuttons, play for a few seconds  
and flash the station frequency, then go on to the next  
preset station. This feature will only scan the six presets  
that are in the selected band. Press one of the SEEK  
arrows again to stop scanning presets. The channel  
number (P1 through P6) will appear momentarily just  
before the frequency is displayed. The radio will scan  
preset stations with a strong signal only.  
PWR (Power): Press this knob to turn the system on  
and off.  
VOL (Volume): Turn this knob clockwise to increase  
volume. Turn it counterclockwise to decrease volume.  
RCL (Recall): Press this knob to display the station  
being played or to display the clock.  
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Setting Preset Stations  
To adjust the treble, press and release AUDIO until TRE  
appears on the display. Then press and hold the up arrow  
to increase treble. T and a positive number will appear  
on the display. Press and hold the down arrow to  
decrease treble. T and a negative number will appear on  
the display. T and a zero will appear on the display when  
the treble level is adjusted to the middle position.  
Release the up or down arrow when you find the treble  
level you want or when the maximum or minimum level  
is reached. If a station is weak or noisy, you may want to  
decrease the treble.  
The six numbered pushbuttons let you return to  
your favorite stations. You can set up to 18 stations  
(six AM, six FM1 and six FM2) by performing the  
following steps:  
1. Turn the radio on.  
2. Press AM FM to select the band.  
3. Tune in the desired station.  
4. Press and hold one of the six numbered pushbuttons  
until you hear a beep. Whenever you press that  
To adjust bass or treble to the middle position, select  
BAS or TRE. Then press and hold AUDIO for more  
than two seconds until you hear a beep. B and a zero or  
T and a zero will appear on the display. To adjust both  
tone controls and both speaker controls to the middle  
position, end out of audio mode by pressing AUDIO  
until the display goes blank. Then press and hold  
AUDIO for more than two seconds until you hear a  
beep. CEN will appear on the display.  
numbered pushbutton, the station you set will return.  
5. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton.  
Setting the Tone (Bass/Treble)  
AUDIO: To adjust the bass, press and release AUDIO  
until BAS appears on the display. Then press and hold  
the up arrow to increase bass. B and a positive number  
will appear on the display. Press and hold the down  
arrow to decrease bass. B and a negative number will  
appear on the display. B and a zero will appear on the  
display when the bass level is adjusted to the middle  
position. Release the up or down arrow when you find  
the bass level you want or when the maximum or  
minimum level is reached.  
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Adjusting the Speakers (Balance/Fade)  
To adjust the fade between the front and rear speakers  
press and release AUDIO until FAD appears on the  
display. Then press and hold the up arrow to move the  
sound to the front speakers or the down arrow to move  
the sound to the rear speakers. F and a number will  
appear on the display when the sound is balanced  
toward the front speakers. R and a number will appear  
on the display when the sound is balanced toward the  
rear speakers. F and a zero will appear on the display  
when the sound is balanced between the speakers.  
Release the up or down arrow when you find the speaker  
balance you want or when the maximum or minimum  
level is reached.  
AUDIO: To adjust the balance between the right and  
left speakers press and release AUDIO until BAL  
appears on the display. Then press and hold the up arrow  
to move the sound to the right speakers or the down  
arrow to move the sound to the left speakers. R and a  
number will appear on the display when the sound is  
balanced toward the right speakers. L and a number will  
appear on the display when the sound is balanced  
toward the left speakers. L and a zero will appear on the  
display when the sound is balanced between the  
speakers. Release the up or down arrow when you find  
the speaker balance you want or when the maximum or  
minimum level is reached.  
To adjust balance or fade to the middle position, select  
BAL or FAD. Then press and hold AUDIO for more  
than two seconds until you hear a beep. L and a zero or  
F and a zero will appear on the display. To adjust both  
tone controls and both speaker controls to the middle  
position, end out of audio mode by pressing AUDIO  
until the display goes blank. Then press and hold  
AUDIO for more than two seconds until you hear a  
beep. CEN will appear on the display.  
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Radio Messages  
1 PREV (Previous): Press this button or the left SEEK  
arrow to go to the previous selection on the tape if the  
selection has been playing for less than three seconds. If  
PREV or the left SEEK arrow is pressed and the current  
selection has been playing for more than 13 seconds, it  
will go to the beginning of the current selection. If  
PREV or the left SEEK arrow is pressed and the current  
selection has been playing from 3 to 13 seconds, it will  
go to the beginning of the previous selection or the  
beginning of the current selection, depending on the  
position on the tape. PRE will appear on the display  
while the cassette player is in previous mode. Your tape  
must have at least three seconds of silence between each  
selection for previous to work. The sound will mute  
while seeking.  
CAL (Calibration): Your audio system has been  
calibrated for your vehicle from the factory. If CAL  
appears on the display it means that your radio has not  
been configured properly for your vehicle and must be  
returned to the dealership for service.  
Playing a Cassette Tape  
Your tape player is built to work best with tapes that are  
up to 30 to 45 minutes long on each side. Tapes longer  
than that are so thin they may not work well in this player.  
The longer side with the tape visible should face to the  
right. If the ignition is on, but the radio is off, the tape can  
be inserted and will begin playing. If you hear nothing but  
a garbled sound, the tape may not be in squarely. Press  
the eject button to remove the tape and start over.  
2 NEXT: Press this button or the right SEEK arrow to  
go to the next selection on the tape. NXT will appear on  
the display while the cassette player is in NEXT mode.  
Your tape must have at least three seconds of silence  
between each selection for next to work. The sound will  
mute while seeking.  
While the tape is playing, use the VOL, AUDIO and  
SEEK controls just as you do for the radio. The radio  
will display UP or the up symbol if the top side of the  
tape is playing. DN or the down symbol will appear if  
the bottom side is playing.  
3 REV (Reverse): Press this button to reverse the  
tape rapidly. REV will appear on the display. Press it  
again to return to playing speed. The radio will play the  
last selected station while the tape reverses. You may  
select stations during reverse operation by using TUNE  
or SEEK.  
If you want to insert a tape when the ignition is off, first  
press the eject button or the RCL knob.  
If an error appears on the display, see “Cassette Tape  
Messages” later in this section.  
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4 FWD (Forward): Press this button to advance  
quickly to another part of the tape. FWD will appear on  
the display. Press the button again to return to playing  
speed. The radio will play the last selected station while  
the tape advances. You may select stations during  
forward operation by using TUNE or SEEK.  
TAPE: Press this button to play a cassette tape when  
listening to the radio. CAS will appear on the display.  
(Eject): Press this button to eject a tape. Eject may  
be activated with the radio off. Cassette tapes may be  
loaded with the radio and vehicle off if this button is  
pressed first.  
5 SIDE: Press this button to play the other side of  
the tape.  
Cassette Tape Messages  
If an error appears while trying to play a cassette tape, it  
could be one of the following:  
6 RPT (Repeat): Press this button once to hear a  
selection over again. RPT will appear on the display.  
The current selection will continue to repeat. RPT will  
flash on the display while the cassette player is  
searching for the start of the selection. Your tape must  
have at least three seconds of silence between each  
selection for RPT to work. Press this button again to  
turn off repeated play. OFF will appear on the display.  
ERR (Error): If the player detects a tight or broken  
tape, ERR will appear on the display and the player will  
eject the tape. The radio will go back to playing the last  
station selected.  
CLN (Clean): If this message appears on the display,  
the cassette tape player needs to be cleaned. It will still  
play tapes, but you should clean it as soon as possible to  
prevent damage to the tapes and player. See “Care of  
Your Cassette Tape Player” in the Index.  
AM FM: Press this button to listen to the radio when a  
tape is playing. The tape will stop but remain in the  
player. The inactive tape will remain safely inside the  
radio for future listening.  
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CD Adapter Kits  
AM-FM Stereo with Compact Disc Player  
with Programmable Equalization and  
Radio Data System (RDS) (If Equipped)  
It is possible to use a portable CD player adapter kit  
with your cassette tape player after activating the bypass  
feature on your tape player.  
To activate the bypass feature, use the following steps:  
Turn the ignition to RUN or ACCESSORY.  
Turn the radio off.  
Press and hold TAPE for two seconds. CAS will  
flash on the display, indicating the feature is active.  
Insert the adapter into the cassette slot. It will power  
up the radio and begin playing.  
If your vehicle (coupe only) is equipped with the  
Monsoon audio system, included are eight speakers  
and an eight channel amplifier. The radio will display  
MONSOON when the radio or the ignition is turned on.  
See your dealer for details.  
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Playing the Radio  
Finding a Station  
PWR (Power): Push this knob to turn the system on  
and off.  
BAND: Press this button to switch between AM, FM1  
and FM2. The display shows your selection.  
VOL (Volume): Turn the knob clockwise to increase  
TUNE: Turn this knob to choose radio stations.  
volume. Turn it counterclockwise to decrease volume.  
SEEK : Press the up or down arrow to go to the  
next or previous station and stay there. The sound will  
mute while seeking.  
SCV (Speed-Compensated Volume): With SCV, your  
audio system adjusts automatically to make up for road  
and wind noise as you drive. Set the volume at the  
desired level. Press this button to select MIN, MED or  
MAX. Each higher choice allows for more volume  
compensation at faster vehicle speeds. Then, as you  
drive, SCV automatically increases the volume, as  
necessary, to overcome noise at any speed. The volume  
level should always sound the same to you as you drive.  
If you don’t want to use SCV, select OFF.  
SCAN : Press and hold one of the SCAN arrows  
for two seconds until SCAN appears on the display and  
you hear a beep. The radio will go to a station, play for a  
few seconds, then go on to the next station. Press one of  
the SCAN arrows again to stop scanning. The sound will  
mute while scanning.  
To scan preset stations, press and hold one of the SCAN  
arrows for more than four seconds until PSCAN and the  
preset number appear on the display. You will hear a  
double beep. The radio will go to the first preset station  
stored on your pushbuttons, play for a few seconds, then  
go on to the next preset station. This feature will only  
scan the six presets that are in the selected band. Press  
one of the SCAN arrows again to stop scanning presets.  
The radio will scan preset stations with a strong signal  
only. The sound will mute while scanning.  
RCL (Recall): Push this knob to display the station  
being played and to display the clock. Pressing this knob  
with the ignition off will display the clock.  
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Setting Preset Stations  
To adjust all of the tone controls to the middle position,  
press and hold TONE until FLAT appears on the display.  
The six numbered pushbuttons let you return to  
your favorite stations. You can set up to 18 stations  
(six AM, six FM1 and six FM2) by performing the  
following steps:  
EQ (Equalizer): This feature allows you to choose  
preset bass, mid and treble equalization settings  
designed for different program types. Press EQ to select  
the desired preset equalization setting. Each time you  
press EQ, another setting will appear on the display.  
1. Turn the radio on.  
2. Press BAND to select AM, FM1 or FM2.  
3. Tune in the desired station.  
You can preset up to six equalization settings by  
performing the following steps:  
1. Turn the radio on.  
4. Press EQ to select the equalization.  
2. Use the TONE button and the SELECT knob to  
select the desired equalization.  
5. Press and hold one of the six numbered pushbuttons  
until you hear a beep. Whenever you press that  
numbered pushbutton, the station you set will return  
and the equalization that you selected will also be  
automatically selected for that pushbutton.  
3. Press and hold EQ for two seconds. SELECT EQ #  
will appear on the display. The EQ icon will flash.  
4. Press EQ or turn the SELECT knob to select the  
desired EQ number. Each time you press EQ or turn  
the SELECT knob, another EQ setting will appear on  
the display.  
6. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton.  
Setting the Tone (Bass/Treble)  
TONE: Press and release this button until BASS, MID  
or TREB appears on the display. The SELECT LED  
indicator will light to show that the tone control can be  
adjusted. When adjusting BASS, MID or TREB, turn  
the SELECT knob clockwise to increase or  
counterclockwise to decrease. If a station is weak or  
noisy, you may want to decrease the treble.  
5. Press and hold the EQ button or push the SELECT  
knob to store the equalization preset. You will hear a  
beep and EQ SAVED will appear on the display.  
6. Repeat the steps for each EQ setting.  
EQ 5 has been programmed at the factory for use with  
talk radio, but it can be preset to a different tone.  
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Adjusting the Speakers (Balance/Fade)  
Seek only to stations with the types of programs you  
want to listen to,  
BAL (Balance): Press and release this button until BAL  
appears on the display. The SELECT LED indicator will  
light to show that the speakers can be adjusted. Turn the  
SELECT knob to move the sound to the left or right  
speakers. The middle position balances the sound  
between the speakers.  
seek to stations with traffic announcements,  
receive announcements concerning local and  
national emergencies, and  
receive and display messages from radio stations.  
RDS is always on. RDS features are only available for  
use on FM stations which broadcast RDS information.  
The RDS features of your radio rely upon receiving  
specific RDS information from these stations. These  
features will only work when the RDS information is  
available. In rare cases, a radio station may broadcast  
incorrect information that will cause the radio features  
to work improperly. If this happens, contact the  
radio station.  
FADE: Press and release this button until FADE appears  
on the display. The SELECT LED indicator will light to  
show that the speakers can be adjusted. Turn the  
SELECT knob to move the sound to the front or rear  
speakers. The middle position balances the sound  
between the speakers.  
Pressing and holding the BAL FADE button for  
two seconds will return all speaker settings to the  
middle position.  
When you are tuned to an RDS station, the station name  
will appear on the display, instead of the frequency.  
Most RDS stations provide their station name, the time  
of day and a Program Type (PTY) for their current  
programming. Some stations also provide the name of  
the current program.  
Using RDS  
Your audio system is equipped with a Radio Data  
System (RDS). RDS is a system that receives data along  
with the audio of the FM station you are currently tuned  
to. You can use RDS to display program information  
and to control your radio. With RDS, the radio can do  
the following:  
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Finding a PTY Station  
BAND (Alternate Frequency): Alternate frequency  
allows the radio to switch to a stronger station with the  
same programming. Press and hold BAND for two  
seconds to turn alternate frequency on. AF ON will  
appear on the display. The radio may switch to stronger  
stations. Press and hold BAND again for two seconds to  
turn alternate frequency off. AF OFF will appear on the  
display. The radio will not switch to other stations.  
PROG TYPE (Program Type): This button is used to  
turn on and off Program Type (PTY) select. P-TYPE  
will appear on the display and the SELECT LED  
indicator will light. The last selected PTY will appear on  
the display for five seconds. Turn the SELECT knob to  
select the PTY you want to listen to. Press the SEEK up  
arrow and the radio will search for an RDS station that  
is broadcasting the PTY that you have selected. The last  
PTY selected will be used for seek or scan modes. When  
the SELECT LED indicator is on and a PTY is not  
displayed, the first time seek is pressed, the last selected  
PTY will be displayed. Press the SEEK up arrow again  
to seek. If a station with the selected PTY is not found,  
NOT FOUND will appear on the display.  
Setting Preset PTY Stations  
The six numbered pushbuttons let you return to your  
favorite Program Types (PTYs). These pushbuttons  
have factory PTY presets. You can set up to 12 PTYs  
(six FM1 and six FM2) by performing the  
following steps:  
1. Press BAND to select FM1 or FM2.  
2. Press PROG TYPE, if it is not already on.  
3. Turn the SELECT knob to select a PTY.  
To use the PTY interrupt feature, press and hold PROG  
TYPE until you hear a beep on the PTY you want to  
interrupt. An asterisk will appear next to the PTY name,  
for example, (CLASSICAL*). The radio will also  
display brackets around the PTY when the PTY  
interrupt is active. To disable the PTY interrupt, select  
the interrupt format and press and hold the PROG TYPE  
button until you hear a beep. The asterisk will be  
removed from the display and so will the brackets.  
When you are listening to a compact disc, the last  
selected RDS FM station will interrupt play if that  
selected PTY format is broadcast.  
4. Press and hold one of the six numbered pushbuttons  
until you hear a beep. Whenever you press that  
numbered pushbutton, the PTY you set will return.  
5. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton.  
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RDS Messages  
appear on the display. Once the complete message has  
been displayed, INFO will disappear from the display until  
another new message is received.  
ALERT!: This type of announcement warns of national  
or local emergencies. You will not be able to turn off  
alert announcements. ALERT! appears on the display  
when an alert announcement plays. When an alert  
announcement comes on the current radio station, you  
will hear it, even if the volume is muted or a compact  
disc is playing. If the compact disc player is playing,  
play will stop for the announcement and resume when  
the announcement is finished.  
The old message can be displayed by pressing the INFO  
button until a new message is received or a different  
station is tuned to. If the INFO button is pressed when  
INFO is not displayed and an old message has not been  
stored by the radio, the radio will display NO INFO.  
TRAF (Traffic): Press this button to receive traffic  
announcements. The traffic announcement brackets will  
appear on the display. TRAF will appear on the display  
if the current station broadcasts traffic announcements.  
If the current station does not broadcast traffic  
announcements, the radio will seek to a station that  
does. When the radio finds a station that broadcasts  
traffic announcements, it will stop. TRAF will appear on  
the display. If no station is found, NO TRAFFIC will  
appear on the display.  
This function will only work during actual emergency  
broadcasts, and will not work during tests of the  
emergency broadcast system. This feature is not  
supported by all RDS stations.  
INFO (Information): If the current station has a  
message, INFO will appear on the display. These text  
messages are from the RDS broadcaster to the listening  
public and may be general information such as artist and  
song title, call in phone numbers, etc. Press this button to  
see the message. If the whole message does not appear on  
the display, parts of the message will appear every three  
seconds until the message is completed. To scroll through  
the message at your own speed press the INFO button  
again for less than one second. A new group of words will  
Your radio can be programmed to interrupt the playback  
of a CD or FM radio by enabling the traffic interrupt  
feature. Press the TRAF button once to turn on the  
traffic feature, if supported by the current RDS station.  
If the station does not support the traffic interrupt  
feature, the radio will search for an RDS station that  
does support the feature. When the traffic interrupt  
feature is on, TRAF will appear on the display.  
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When a traffic announcement comes on the current radio  
station or a related network station, you will hear it,  
even if the volume is muted or a compact disc is  
playing. If the compact disc player was being used, the  
compact disc will stay in the player and resume play at  
the point where it stopped.  
If an error appears on the display, see “Compact Disc  
Messages” later in this section.  
1 (Forward): Press and hold this pushbutton to  
advance quickly within a track. You will hear sound at a  
reduced volume. Release it to play the passage. The  
display will show elapsed time.  
Radio Messages  
RDM 3 (Random): Press this pushbutton to hear the  
tracks in random, rather than sequential, order. RDM  
and the track number will appear on the display.  
CALIBRATE: Your audio system has been calibrated  
for your vehicle from the factory. If CALIBRATE  
appears on the display, it means that your radio has not  
been configured properly for your vehicle and must be  
returned to the dealership for service.  
4
(Reverse): Press and hold this pushbutton to  
reverse quickly within a track. You will hear sound at a  
reduced volume. Release it to play the passage. The  
display will show elapsed time.  
Playing a Compact Disc  
EQ (Equalizer): Press EQ to select the desired preset  
equalization setting while playing a compact disc. The  
equalization will be automatically set whenever you  
play a compact disc. See “EQ” listed previously for  
more information.  
With the ignition on, insert a disc partway into the slot,  
label side up. The player will pull it in and the disc  
should begin playing. If you want to insert a CD when  
the ignition is off, first press the eject symbol or push  
the RCL knob. If you insert a CD with the radio off  
and the ignition on, it will start to play.  
SEEK : Press the down arrow while playing a CD  
to go to the start of the current track if more than eight  
seconds have played. Press the up arrow to go to the  
next track. If you hold the button or press it more than  
once, the player will continue moving backward or  
forward through the disc.  
When the disc is inserted, the CD symbol will be  
displayed. If you select an EQ setting for your CD,  
it will be activated each time you play a CD.  
As each new track starts to play, the track number will  
appear on the display.  
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Compact Disc Messages  
SCAN : Press and hold one of the SCAN arrows  
for more than two seconds until SCAN appears on the  
display and you hear a beep. The disc will go to the next  
track, play for a few seconds, then go on to the next  
track. Press this button again to stop scanning. The  
sound will mute while scanning. SCAN and the track  
number will appear on the display.  
CHECK CD: If this message appears on the radio  
display and the disc comes out, it could be for one of the  
following reasons:  
The road is too rough. The disc should play when the  
road is smoother.  
The disc is dirty, scratched, wet or upside down.  
RCL (Recall): Press this button to see how long the  
current track has been playing. To change what is  
normally shown on the display (track or elapsed time),  
press the button until you see the display you want, then  
hold the button until the display flashes. While elapsed  
time is showing, CD TIME will appear on the display.  
The air is very humid. If so, wait about an hour and  
try again.  
If the CD is not playing correctly, for any other reason,  
try a known good CD.  
If any error occurs repeatedly or if an error can’t be  
corrected, contact your dealer. If your radio displays an  
error message, write it down and provide it to your  
dealer when reporting the problem.  
BAND: Press this button to listen to the radio when a  
CD is playing. The inactive CD will remain safely inside  
the radio for future listening.  
CD AUX (Auxiliary): Press this button to play a  
compact disc when listening to the radio. CD will appear  
on the display when a compact disc is loaded.  
(Eject): Press this button to eject a CD. Eject may  
be activated with either the ignition or radio off. CDs  
may be loaded with the radio and ignition off if this  
button is pressed first.  
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Personal Choice Radio Controls  
(If Equipped)  
Theft-Deterrent Feature for Non-RDS  
Radios (If Equipped)  
This feature enables two drivers to store and recall  
personal settings for AM and FM presets, last  
tuned station, volume, tone and audio source  
(radio, cassette or CD).  
THEFTLOCK is designed to discourage theft of your  
radio. The feature works automatically by learning a  
portion of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).  
If the radio is moved to a different vehicle, it will not  
operate and LOC will be displayed.  
The numbers (1 or 2) found on the back of the  
remote keyless entry transmitter correspond to  
the drivers (1 or 2).  
With THEFTLOCK activated, your radio will not  
operate if stolen.  
To recall audio sources, press the UNLOCK button on  
the remote keyless entry transmitter and put the ignition  
in RUN. The radio settings will automatically adjust to  
where they were last set by the identified driver (1 or 2).  
Theft-Deterrent Feature for RDS Radios  
(If Equipped)  
THEFTLOCK is designed to discourage theft of your  
radio. The feature works automatically by learning a  
portion of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).  
If the radio is moved to a different vehicle, it will not  
operate and LOCKED will be displayed.  
To program this feature, do the following:  
1. Press the UNLOCK button on the remote keyless  
entry transmitter for the identified driver (1 or 2).  
2. Put the ignition in RUN.  
When the radio and vehicle are turned off and RAP is  
not active, the blinking red light indicates that  
THEFTLOCK is armed.  
3. Set all radio preferences. For more information see  
“Setting Preset Stations” and “Setting the Tone”  
listed for your particular radio.  
With THEFTLOCK activated, your radio will not  
operate if stolen.  
Follow these steps each time you want to change the  
stored settings.  
All vehicles are shipped with this feature on. This  
feature can be disabled by your dealer if desired.  
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To help avoid hearing loss or damage do the following:  
Adjust the volume control to the lowest setting.  
Understanding Radio Reception  
AM  
Increase volume slowly until you hear comfortably  
and clearly.  
The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM,  
especially at night. The longer range, however, can  
cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick  
up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try  
reducing the treble to reduce this noise if you ever get it.  
NOTICE:  
Before you add any sound equipment to your  
vehicle -- like a tape player, CB radio, mobile  
telephone or two-way radio -- be sure you can  
add what you want. If you can, it’s very  
important to do it properly. Added sound  
equipment may interfere with the operation of  
your vehicle’s engine, Delphi Electronics radio or  
other systems, and even damage them. Your  
vehicle’s systems may interfere with the  
operation of sound equipment that has been  
added improperly.  
FM Stereo  
FM stereo will give you the best sound, but FM signals  
will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Tall  
buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing  
the sound to come and go.  
Tips About Your Audio System  
Hearing damage from loud noise is almost undetectable  
until it is too late. Your hearing can adapt to higher  
volumes of sound. Sound that seems normal can be loud  
and harmful to your hearing. Take precautions by  
adjusting the volume control on your radio to a safe  
sound level before your hearing adapts to it.  
So, before adding sound equipment, check with  
your dealership and be sure to check federal  
rules covering mobile radio and telephone units.  
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When cleaning the cassette tape player with the  
recommended non-abrasive cleaning cassette, it is  
possible that the cassette may eject, because the cut tape  
detection feature on your radio, may recognize it as a  
broken tape. To prevent the cleaning cassette from being  
ejected, use the following steps.  
Care of Your Cassette Tape Player  
A tape player that is not cleaned regularly can cause  
reduced sound quality, ruined cassettes or a damaged  
mechanism. Cassette tapes should be stored in their  
cases away from contaminants, direct sunlight and  
extreme heat. If they aren’t, they may not operate  
properly or may cause failure of the tape player.  
1. Turn the ignition to RUN or ACCESSORY.  
2. Turn the radio off.  
Your tape player should be cleaned regularly after every  
50 hours of use. Your radio may display CLN or  
CLEAN PLAYER to indicate that you have used your  
tape player for 50 hours without resetting the tape clean  
timer. If this message appears on the display, your  
cassette tape player needs to be cleaned. It will still play  
tapes, but you should clean it as soon as possible to  
prevent damage to your tapes and player. If you notice a  
reduction in sound quality, try a known good cassette to  
see if it is the tape or the tape player at fault. If this other  
cassette has no improvement in sound quality, clean the  
tape player.  
3. Press and hold the TAPE button for five seconds.  
CAS will flash on the display for five seconds.  
4. Insert the scrubbing action cleaning cassette.  
5. Eject the cleaning cassette after the manufacturer’s  
recommended cleaning time.  
When the cleaning cassette has been ejected, the broken  
tape detection feature is active again.  
You may also choose a non-scrubbing action, wet-type  
cleaner which uses a cassette with a fabric belt to clean  
the tape head. This type of cleaning cassette will not  
eject on its own. A non-scrubbing action cleaner may  
not clean as thoroughly as the scrubbing type cleaner.  
The use of a non-scrubbing action, dry-type cleaning  
cassette is not recommended.  
The recommended cleaning method for your cassette  
tape player is the use of a scrubbing action,  
non-abrasive cleaning cassette with pads which scrub  
the tape head as the hubs of the cleaner cassette turn.  
The recommended cleaning cassette is available through  
your dealership (GM Part No. 12344789).  
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After you clean the player, press and hold the eject  
button for five seconds to reset the CLEAN PLAYER  
or CLN indicator. The radio will display CLEANED  
or --- to show the indicator was reset.  
Fixed Mast Antenna  
The fixed mast antenna can withstand most car washes  
without being damaged. If the mast should ever become  
slightly bent, you can straighten it out by hand. If the  
mast is badly bent, as it might be by vandals, you should  
replace it.  
Cassettes are subject to wear and the sound quality  
may degrade over time. Always make sure the cassette  
tape is in good condition before you have your tape  
player serviced.  
Check every once in a while to be sure the mast is still  
tightened to the fender. If tightening is required, tighten  
by hand, then with a wrench one quarter turn.  
Care of Your Compact Discs  
Handle discs carefully. Store them in their original cases  
or other protective cases and away from direct sunlight  
and dust. If the surface of a disc is soiled, dampen a  
clean, soft cloth in a mild, neutral detergent solution and  
clean it, wiping from the center to the edge.  
Chime Level Adjustment  
(RDS Radios Only)  
The radio is the vehicle chime producer. The chime is  
produced from the driver’s side front door speakers. To  
change the volume level, press and hold pushbutton 6  
with the ignition on and the radio power off. The chime  
volume level will change from the normal level to loud,  
and LOUD will be displayed on the radio. To change  
back to the default or normal setting, press and hold  
pushbutton 6 again. The chime level will change from  
the loud level to normal, and NORMAL will be  
Be sure never to touch the side without writing when  
handling discs. Pick up discs by grasping the outer  
edges or the edge of the hole and the outer edge.  
Care of Your Compact Disc Player  
The use of CD lens cleaner discs is not advised, due to  
the risk of contaminating the lens of the CD optics with  
lubricants internal to the CD mechanism.  
displayed. Each time the chime volume is changed,  
three chimes will sound to indicate the change.  
Removing the radio and not replacing it with a factory  
radio or chime module will disable vehicle chimes.  
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Section 4 Your Driving and the Road  
Here you’ll find information about driving on different kinds of roads and in varying weather conditions.  
We’ve also included many other useful tips on driving.  
4-2  
Defensive Driving  
Drunken Driving  
Control of a Vehicle  
Braking  
Enhanced Traction System (ETS)  
Steering  
Off-Road Recovery  
Passing  
Loss of Control  
4-21  
4-22  
4-23  
4-24  
4-25  
4-30  
4-32  
4-34  
Freeway Driving  
Before Leaving on a Long Trip  
Highway Hypnosis  
Hill and Mountain Roads  
Winter Driving  
Recreational Vehicle Towing  
Loading Your Vehicle  
Towing a Trailer (Models with 2.4L L4 (LD9)  
or 2.2L L4 ECOTEC (L61) Engine and  
Automatic Transaxle)  
Towing a Trailer (Models with 2.2L L4 (LN2)  
Engine or Manual Transaxle)  
4-3  
4-6  
4-6  
4-9  
4-11  
4-13  
4-13  
4-15  
4-16  
4-17  
4-20  
Driving at Night  
Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads  
City Driving  
4-41  
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Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.”  
On city streets, rural roads or freeways, it means  
“always expect the unexpected.”  
Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be  
careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might  
do. Be ready for their mistakes.  
Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of  
accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough  
following distance. It’s the best defensive driving  
maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never  
know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake  
or turn suddenly.  
Defensive driving requires that a driver concentrate on  
the driving task. Anything that distracts from the  
driving task -- such as concentrating on a cellular  
telephone call, reading, or reaching for something on  
the floor -- makes proper defensive driving more  
difficult and can even cause a collision, with resulting  
injury. Ask a passenger to help do things like this, or  
pull off the road in a safe place to do them yourself.  
These simple defensive driving techniques could save  
your life.  
Defensive Driving  
The best advice anyone can give about driving is:  
Drive defensively.  
Please start with a very important safety device in your  
vehicle: Buckle up. See “Safety Belts” in the Index.  
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The obvious way to solve the leading highway safety  
problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then  
drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much”  
if the driver plans to drive? It’s a lot less than many  
might think. Although it depends on each person  
and situation, here is some general information on  
the problem.  
Drunken Driving  
Death and injury associated with drinking and driving  
is a national tragedy. It’s the number one contributor  
to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims  
every year.  
Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive  
a vehicle:  
The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone  
who is drinking depends upon four things:  
Judgment  
The amount of alcohol consumed  
The drinker’s body weight  
Muscular Coordination  
Vision  
The amount of food that is consumed before and  
during drinking  
Attentiveness.  
Police records show that almost half of all motor  
vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases,  
these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking  
and driving. In recent years, about 16,000 annual motor  
vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use  
of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured.  
The length of time it has taken the drinker to  
consume the alcohol.  
According to the American Medical Association, a  
180-lb. (82 kg) person who drinks three 12-ounce  
(355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a  
BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the  
same BAC by drinking three 4-ounce (120 ml) glasses  
of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1-1/2 ounces  
(45 ml) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka.  
Many adults -- by some estimates, nearly half the adult  
population -- choose never to drink alcohol, so they  
never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it’s  
against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol.  
There are good medical, psychological and  
developmental reasons for these laws.  
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Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a  
woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a  
man of her same body weight when each has the same  
number of drinks.  
The law in an increasing number of U.S. states, and  
throughout Canada, sets the legal limit at 0.08 percent.  
In some other countries, the limit is even lower.  
For example, it is 0.05 percent in both France and  
Germany. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in  
the United States is 0.04 percent.  
The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to  
six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we’ve seen, it  
depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how  
quickly the person drinks them.  
But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of  
0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of  
many people are impaired at a BAC approaching  
0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All  
drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent.  
Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision  
increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of  
0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of  
0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a  
collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of  
this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a  
level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater!  
It’s the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if  
the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces  
or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s  
BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who  
consumes food just before or during drinking will have a  
somewhat lower BAC level.  
There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have  
a lower relative percentage of body water than men.  
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The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol  
in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold  
showers will speed that up. “I’ll be careful” isn’t the  
right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to  
take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street?  
A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able  
to react quickly enough to avoid the collision.  
CAUTION:  
Drinking and then driving is very dangerous.  
Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness and  
judgment can be affected by even a small amount  
of alcohol. You can have a serious -- or even  
fatal -- collision if you drive after drinking.  
Please don’t drink and drive or ride with a driver  
who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if  
you’re with a group, designate a driver who will  
not drink.  
There’s something else about drinking and driving that  
many people don’t know. Medical research shows that  
alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries  
worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or  
heart. This means that when anyone who has been  
drinking -- driver or passenger -- is in a crash, that  
person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled  
is higher than if the person had not been drinking.  
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Control of a Vehicle  
Braking  
You have three systems that make your vehicle go where  
you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and  
the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work  
at the places where the tires meet the road.  
Braking action involves perception time and  
reaction time.  
First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal.  
That’s perception time. Then you have to bring up  
your foot and do it. That’s reaction time.  
Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But  
that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver  
and as long as two or three seconds or more with  
another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination  
and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and  
frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle  
moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m).  
That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so  
keeping enough space between your vehicle and others  
is important.  
And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly  
with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or  
gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire  
tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the  
vehicle and the amount of brake force applied.  
Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s  
easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires  
and road can provide. That means you can lose control  
of your vehicle. Also see “Enhanced Traction System”  
in the Index.  
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Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in  
spurts -- heavy acceleration followed by heavy  
braking -- rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a  
mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between  
hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you  
do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the  
traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will  
eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means  
better braking and longer brake life.  
Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS)  
Your vehicle has anti-lock brakes. ABS is an advanced  
electronic braking system that will help prevent a  
braking skid.  
When you start your engine, or when you begin to drive  
away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You  
may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while  
this test is going on, and you may even notice that your  
brake pedal moves or pulses a little. This is normal.  
If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake  
normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the  
pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine  
stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But  
you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is  
used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal  
will be harder to push.  
If there’s a problem with the  
anti-lock brake system, this  
warning light will stay on.  
See “Anti-Lock Brake  
System Warning Light” in  
the Index.  
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The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure  
faster than any driver could. The computer is  
programmed to make the most of available tire and road  
conditions. This can help you steer around the obstacle  
while braking hard.  
Let’s say the road is wet and you’re driving safely.  
Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam  
on the brakes and continue braking. Here’s what  
happens with ABS:  
A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If  
one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer  
will separately work the brakes at each wheel.  
As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on  
wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.  
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Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need  
to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease  
stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in  
front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes  
if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave  
enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have  
anti-lock brakes.  
Enhanced Traction System (ETS)  
If your vehicle has the optional four-speed automatic  
transaxle, it also has an Enhanced Traction System  
(ETS) that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in  
slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it  
senses that one or both of the front wheels are spinning  
or beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the  
system reduces engine power and may also upshift the  
transaxle to limit wheel spin.  
Using Anti-Lock  
Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down  
firmly and let anti-lock work for you. You may feel a  
slight brake pedal pulsation or notice some noise, but  
this is normal.  
Braking in Emergencies  
With anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same  
time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more  
than even the very best braking.  
United States  
Canada  
This light will come on when your Enhanced Traction  
System is limiting wheel spin. See “Enhanced Traction  
System Active Light” in the Index. You may feel or hear  
the system working, but this is normal.  
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The Enhanced Traction System operates in all transaxle  
shift lever positions. But the system can upshift the  
transaxle only as high as the shift lever position you’ve  
chosen, so you should use the lower gears only when  
necessary. See “Automatic Transaxle” in the Index.  
To turn the system on or off,  
press the ETS button on the  
left side of the instrument  
panel near the instrument  
panel brightness control.  
When you turn the system off, the Enhanced Traction  
System warning light will come on and stay on. If the  
Enhanced Traction System is limiting wheel spin when  
you press the button to turn the system off, the warning  
light will come on -- but the system won’t turn off right  
away. It will wait until there’s no longer a current need  
to limit wheel spin.  
United States  
Canada  
When the system is on and the parking brake is fully  
released, this warning light will come on to let you  
know if there’s a problem.  
See “Enhanced Traction System Warning Light” in the  
Index. When this warning light is on, the system will not  
limit wheel spin. Adjust your driving accordingly.  
You can turn the system back on at any time by pressing  
the button again. The Enhanced Traction System  
warning light should go off.  
To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road  
conditions, you should always leave the Enhanced  
Traction System on. But you can turn the system off  
if you prefer.  
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Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve.  
Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control  
systems -- steering and acceleration -- have to do their  
work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden  
acceleration can demand too much of those places. You  
can lose control. Refer to “Enhanced Traction System”  
in the Index.  
Steering  
Power Steering  
If you lose power steering assist because the engine  
stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but  
it will take much more effort.  
Steering Tips  
What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the  
accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it  
to go, and slow down.  
Driving on Curves  
It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed.  
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should  
adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are  
based on good weather and road conditions. Under less  
favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower.  
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on  
the news happen on curves. Here’s why:  
Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to  
the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The  
traction of the tires against the road surface makes it  
possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn  
the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep  
the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever  
tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this.  
If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a  
curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front  
wheels are straight ahead.  
Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the  
curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to  
accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then  
accelerate gently into the straightaway.  
The traction you can get in a curve depends on the  
condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at  
which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re  
in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.  
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Steering in Emergencies  
There are times when steering can be more effective than  
braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a  
truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out  
from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked  
cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these  
problems by braking -- if you can stop in time. But  
sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time for  
evasive action -- steering around the problem.  
Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like  
these. First apply your brakes. See “Braking in  
Emergencies” earlier in this section. It is better to  
remove as much speed as you can from a possible  
collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or  
right depending on the space available.  
An emergency like this requires close attention and a  
quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at  
the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can  
turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing  
either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and  
just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have  
avoided the object.  
The fact that such emergency situations are always  
possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at  
all times and wear safety belts properly.  
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Off-Road Recovery  
Passing  
You may find that your right wheels have dropped off the  
edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.  
The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a  
two-lane highway waits for just the right moment,  
accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes  
back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver?  
Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane  
highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the  
passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming  
traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in  
judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can  
suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the  
worst of all traffic accidents -- the head-on collision.  
So here are some tips for passing:  
“Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and to  
crossroads for situations that might affect your passing  
patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about  
making a successful pass, wait for a better time.  
Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines.  
If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a  
turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken  
center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass  
(providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid  
line on your side of the lane or a double solid line,  
even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.  
If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the  
pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the  
accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so  
that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You  
can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the  
right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your  
steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.  
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Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to  
pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one  
thing, following too closely reduces your area of  
vision, especially if you’re following a larger  
vehicle. Also, you won’t have adequate space if the  
vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a  
reasonable distance.  
Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and  
start your left lane change signal before moving out  
of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough  
ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your  
inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal  
and move back into the right lane. (Remember that  
your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you  
just passed may seem to be farther away from you  
than it really is.)  
When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up,  
start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t  
get too close. Time your move so you will be  
increasing speed as the time comes to move into the  
other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a  
“running start” that more than makes up for the  
distance you would lose by dropping back. And if  
something happens to cause you to cancel your pass,  
you need only slow down and drop back again and  
wait for another opportunity.  
Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time  
on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the  
next vehicle.  
Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly.  
Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may  
be slowing down or starting to turn.  
If you’re being passed, make it easy for the  
following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you  
can ease a little to the right.  
If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait  
your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to  
pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle.  
Remember to glance over your shoulder and check  
the blind spot.  
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If you do not have the Enhanced Traction System, or if  
the system is off, then an acceleration skid is also best  
handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.  
Loss of Control  
Let’s review what driving experts say about what  
happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering  
and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the  
tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked.  
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the  
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the  
vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your  
vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a  
second skid if it occurs.  
In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to  
steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of  
less danger.  
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,  
gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll  
want to slow down and adjust your driving to these  
conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery  
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and  
vehicle control more limited.  
Skidding  
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.  
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable  
care suited to existing conditions, and by not  
“overdriving” those conditions. But skids are  
always possible.  
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try  
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or  
braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower  
gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide.  
You may not realize the surface is slippery until your  
vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning  
clues -- such as enough water, ice or packed snow on  
the road to make a “mirrored surface” -- and slow  
down when you have any doubt.  
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s  
three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels  
aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too  
much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and  
lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too  
much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.  
A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off  
the accelerator pedal.  
Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps  
avoid only the braking skid.  
If you have the Enhanced Traction System, remember:  
It helps avoid only the acceleration skid.  
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Here are some tips on night driving.  
Drive defensively.  
Driving at Night  
Don’t drink and drive.  
Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the  
glare from headlamps behind you.  
Since you can’t see as well, you may need to  
slow down and keep more space between you and  
other vehicles.  
Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your  
headlamps can light up only so much road ahead.  
In remote areas, watch for animals.  
If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place  
and rest.  
No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as  
we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old  
driver may require at least twice as much light to see the  
same thing at night as a 20-year-old.  
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving.  
One reason is that some drivers are likely to be  
impaired -- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision  
problems, or by fatigue.  
What you do in the daytime can also affect your night  
vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright  
sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses.  
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Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But  
if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They  
may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also  
make a lot of things invisible.  
Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads  
You can be temporarily blinded by approaching  
headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several  
seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When  
you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who  
doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with  
misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid  
staring directly into the approaching headlamps.  
Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle  
clean -- inside and out. Glare at night is made much  
worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass  
can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes  
lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would,  
making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly.  
Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a  
roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your  
eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly  
lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be  
checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes  
be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night  
blindness -- the inability to see in dim light -- and  
aren’t even aware of it.  
Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet  
road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because  
your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads.  
And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get  
even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be  
cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The  
surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are  
tuned for driving on dry pavement.  
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The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your  
windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain  
can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals,  
pavement markings, the edge of the road and even  
people walking.  
Driving too fast through large water puddles or even  
going through some car washes can cause problems, too.  
The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles.  
But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.  
It’s wise to keep your windshield wiping equipment in  
good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled  
with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper  
inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing  
areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to  
separate from the inserts.  
CAUTION:  
Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work  
as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to  
one side. You could lose control of the vehicle.  
After driving through a large puddle of water or  
a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until  
your brakes work normally.  
Hydroplaning  
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up  
under your tires that they can actually ride on the water.  
This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re  
going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning,  
it has little or no contact with the road.  
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Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your  
tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or  
more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on  
the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone  
poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the  
water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning.  
Driving Through Flowing Water  
CAUTION:  
Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces.  
If you try to drive through flowing water, as you  
might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be  
carried away. As little as six inches of flowing  
water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this  
happens, you and other vehicle occupants could  
drown. Don’t ignore police warning signs, and  
otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive  
through flowing water.  
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There  
just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The  
best advice is to slow down when it is raining.  
Driving Through Deep Standing Water  
NOTICE:  
If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or  
standing water, water can come in through your  
engine’s air intake and badly damage your  
engine. Never drive through water that is slightly  
lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you  
can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive  
through them very slowly.  
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips  
Besides slowing down, allow some extra following  
distance. And be especially careful when you pass  
another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room  
ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted  
by road spray.  
Have good tires with proper tread depth. See “Tires”  
in the Index.  
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Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:  
City Driving  
Know the best way to get to where you are  
going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an  
unknown part of the city just as you would for a  
cross-country trip.  
Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most  
large cities. You’ll save time and energy. See the  
next part, “Freeway Driving.”  
Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic  
light is there because the corner is busy enough to  
need it. When a light turns green, and just before  
you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that  
have not cleared the intersection or may be running  
the red light.  
One of the biggest problems with city streets is the  
amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for  
what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to  
traffic signals.  
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At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the  
freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you  
drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to  
check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to  
blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to  
the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check  
your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as  
necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow.  
Freeway Driving  
Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the  
posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay  
in the right lane unless you want to pass.  
Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use  
your turn signal.  
Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your  
shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your  
“blind” spot.  
Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you  
allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move  
slightly slower at night.  
Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways,  
expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest  
of all roads. But they have their own special rules.  
When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper  
lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not,  
under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to  
the next exit.  
The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep  
up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same  
speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or  
too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the  
left lane on a freeway as a passing lane.  
The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.  
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The exit speed is usually posted.  
Here are some things you can check before a trip:  
Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not  
to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance  
at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going  
slower than you actually are.  
Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full?  
Are all windows clean inside and outside?  
Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?  
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked  
all levels?  
Before Leaving on a Long Trip  
Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you  
must start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s  
work -- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part  
of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you  
can easily drive in.  
Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?  
Tires: They are vitally important to a safe,  
trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for  
long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the  
recommended pressure?  
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it  
serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs  
service, have it done before starting out. Of course,  
you’ll find experienced and able service experts in  
Pontiac dealerships all across North America. They’ll be  
ready and willing to help if you need it.  
Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook  
along your route? Should you delay your trip a short  
time to avoid a major storm system?  
Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?  
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What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be  
aware that it can happen.  
Highway Hypnosis  
Is there actually such a condition as “highway  
hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at  
the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness,  
or whatever.  
Then here are some tips:  
Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a  
comfortably cool interior.  
There is something about an easy stretch of road with  
the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the  
road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind  
against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it  
happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the  
road in less than a second, and you could crash and  
be injured.  
Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to  
the sides. Check your rearview mirrors and your  
instruments frequently.  
If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service  
or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or  
both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as  
an emergency.  
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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re  
planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make  
your trips safer and more enjoyable.  
Hill and Mountain Roads  
Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all  
fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling  
system and transaxle. These parts can work hard on  
mountain roads.  
Know how to go down hills. The most important  
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the  
slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go  
down a steep or long hill.  
CAUTION:  
If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get  
so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would  
then have poor braking or even none going  
down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let  
your engine assist your brakes on a steep  
downhill slope.  
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from  
driving in flat or rolling terrain.  
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Winter Driving  
CAUTION:  
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the  
ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to  
do all the work of slowing down. They could get  
so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would  
then have poor braking or even none going down  
a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine  
running and your vehicle in gear when you  
go downhill.  
Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down  
to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine  
and transaxle, and you can climb the hill better.  
Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane  
roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut  
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let  
you stay in your own lane.  
Here are some tips for winter driving:  
Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.  
As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be  
somethingin your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.  
You may want to put winter emergency supplies in  
your trunk.  
You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of  
special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or  
no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding  
roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.  
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Driving on Snow or Ice  
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the  
road probably have good traction.  
However, if there is snow or ice between your tires  
and the road, you can have a very slippery situation.  
You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need  
to be very careful.  
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply  
of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer  
clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and a  
couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will  
be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag  
of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags  
to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure  
these items in your vehicle.  
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What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold  
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet  
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the  
least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about  
freezing (32 F; 0 C) and freezing rain begins to fall.  
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews  
can get there.  
Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability  
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even  
though you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll  
want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry  
pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in the Index.  
Allow greater following distance on any  
slippery road.  
Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing  
or loose snow -- drive with caution.  
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine  
until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an  
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in  
shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around  
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.  
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may  
remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If  
you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you  
are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on  
the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.  
If you have the Enhanced Traction System, keep the  
system on. It will improve your ability to accelerate  
when driving on a slippery road. Even though your  
vehicle has this system, you’ll want to slow down and  
adjust your driving to the road conditions. See  
“Enhanced Traction System” in the Index.  
If you don’t have the Enhanced Traction System,  
accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.  
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and  
polish the surface under the tires even more.  
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Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that  
you’ve been stopped by the snow.  
If You’re Caught in a Blizzard  
Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.  
If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body  
insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor  
mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or  
tuck under your clothing to keep warm.  
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a  
serious situation. You should probably stay with your  
vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help  
and you can hike through the snow. Here are some  
things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your  
passengers safe:  
Turn on your hazard flashers.  
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.  
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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves  
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster  
than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This  
uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the  
battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to  
restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on  
with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.  
CAUTION:  
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle.  
This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas  
to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill  
you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not  
know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from  
around the base of your vehicle, especially any  
that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check  
around again from time to time to be sure snow  
doesn’t collect there.  
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost  
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again  
and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable  
from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the  
fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get  
out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises  
every half hour or so until help comes.  
Open a window just a little on the side of the  
vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help  
keep CO out.  
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Dinghy Towing Your Vehicle From the Front  
Recreational Vehicle Towing  
You may dingy tow your vehicle from the front  
following these steps:  
Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle  
behind another vehicle -- such as behind a motorhome. The  
two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are  
known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all  
four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your  
vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on  
a device known as a “dolly”).  
With the proper preparation and equipment, many  
vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy  
Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following.  
Here are some important things to consider before you  
do recreational vehicle towing:  
What’s the towing capacity of the towing  
vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle  
manufacturer’s recommendations.  
How far will you tow? Some vehicles have  
restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.  
1. Set the parking brake.  
Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your  
dealer or trailering professional for additional advice  
and equipment recommendations.  
2. Turn the ignition key to OFF to unlock the  
steering wheel.  
Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would  
prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to  
make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See  
“Before Leaving on a Long Trip” in the Index.  
3. Shift your transaxle to NEUTRAL (N).  
4. Release the parking brake.  
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NOTICE:  
NOTICE:  
Make sure that the towing speed does not exceed  
65 mph (110 km/h), or your vehicle could be  
badly damaged.  
Do not tow your vehicle from the rear. Your  
vehicle could be badly damaged and the repairs  
would not be covered by your warranty.  
Dolly Towing  
Your vehicle cannot be dolly towed, but can be dingy  
towed. See “Dingy Towing” in the Index.  
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Loading Your Vehicle  
The other label is the Certification label, found on the  
rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross  
weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross  
Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes  
the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.  
Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross  
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or  
rear axle.  
Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it  
may properly carry. The Tire-Loading Information label  
found on the rear edge of the driver’s door tells you the  
proper size, speed rating and recommended inflation  
pressures for the tires on your vehicle. It also gives you  
important information about the number of people that  
can be in your vehicle and the total weight that you can  
carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight  
and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all  
nonfactory-installed options.  
And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it  
out. Don’t carry more than 132 lbs. (60 kg) in your  
vehicle’s trunk.  
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CAUTION:  
CAUTION:  
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the  
GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear  
GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can  
break, and it can change the way your vehicle  
handles. These could cause you to lose control  
and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life  
of your vehicle.  
Things you put inside your vehicle can strike  
and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or  
in a crash.  
Put things in the trunk of your vehicle. In a  
trunk, put them as far forward as you can.  
Try to spread the weight evenly. If you have  
fold-down rear seats, you’ll find four  
anchors on the back wall of your trunk.  
You can use these anchors to tie down  
lighter loads. They’re not strong enough for  
heavy things, however, so put them as far  
forward as you can in the trunk.  
If you put things inside your vehicle -- like suitcases,  
tools, packages, or anything else -- they will go as fast  
as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly,  
or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.  
Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,  
inside the vehicle so that some of them are  
above the tops of the seats.  
Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in  
your vehicle.  
When you carry something inside the  
vehicle, secure it whenever you can.  
Don’t leave a seat folded down unless you  
need to.  
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Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with a  
2.4L L4 (LD9) engine or a 2.2L L4 ECOTEC (L61)  
engine and automatic transaxle and the proper trailer  
towing equipment. If your vehicle is not equipped as  
stated above, do not tow a trailer. To identify what the  
vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you  
should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer”  
that appears later in this section. But trailering is  
different than just driving your vehicle by itself.  
Trailering means changes in handling, durability and  
fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct  
equipment, and it has to be used properly.  
Towing a Trailer (Models with  
2.4L L4 (LD9) or 2.2L L4  
ECOTEC (L61) Engine and  
Automatic Transaxle)  
CAUTION:  
If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive  
properly, you can lose control when you pull a  
trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the  
brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You  
and your passengers could be seriously injured.  
You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting  
repairs would not be covered by your warranty.  
Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the  
steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice  
and information about towing a trailer with  
your vehicle.  
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many  
time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules.  
Many of these are important for your safety and that of  
your passengers. So please read this section carefully  
before you pull a trailer.  
Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle,  
wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder  
against the drag of the added weight. The engine is  
required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under  
greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the  
trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing  
the pulling requirements.  
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Do not tow when the outside air temperature is  
above 100 F (38 C).  
If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer  
If you do, here are some important points:  
Do not tow more than 1,000 miles (1 600 km)  
per year.  
There are many different laws, including speed limit  
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure  
your rig will be legal, not only where you live but  
also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this  
information can be state or provincial police.  
Three important considerations have to do with weight:  
the weight of the trailer,  
the weight of the trailer tongue  
Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch  
dealer about sway controls.  
and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires.  
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles  
(1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,  
axle or other parts could be damaged.  
Weight of the Trailer  
How heavy can a trailer safely be?  
It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs. (454 kg).  
But even that can be too heavy.  
Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you  
tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and  
don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your  
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the  
heavier loads.  
It depends on how you plan to use your rig.  
For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside  
temperature and how much your vehicle is used to  
pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend  
on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle.  
Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.  
Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed  
for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to  
save wear on your vehicle’s parts.  
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You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or  
advice, or you can write us at:  
Pontiac-GMC Customer Assistance Center  
P.O. Box 33172  
Detroit, Michigan 48232-5172  
In Canada, write to:  
General Motors of Canada Limited  
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005  
1908 Colonel Sam Drive  
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7  
Weight of the Trailer Tongue  
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important  
weight to measure because it affects the total or gross  
weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight  
(GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any  
cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be  
riding in the vehicle. And if you tow a trailer, you must  
add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle  
will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your  
Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your  
vehicle’s maximum load capacity.  
If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch or a  
weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A)  
should weigh 10-15 percent of the total loaded  
trailer weight (B).  
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and  
then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are  
proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right  
simply by moving some items around in the trailer.  
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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires  
Safety Chains  
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper  
limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the  
Tire-Loading Information label at the rear edge of the  
driver’s door, or see “Loading Your Vehicle” in the  
Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW  
limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the  
trailer tongue.  
You should always attach chains between your vehicle  
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue  
of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road  
if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions  
about safety chains may be provided by the hitch  
manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the  
manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety  
chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always  
leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig.  
And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.  
Hitches  
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.  
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a  
few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are  
some rules to follow:  
Trailer Brakes  
Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read  
and follow instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be  
able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.  
Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap  
into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake  
systems won’t work well, or at all.  
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for  
hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other  
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted  
hitch that does not attach to the bumper.  
Will you have to make any holes in the body of your  
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do,  
then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove  
the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon  
monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your  
vehicle. See “Carbon Monoxide” in the Index. Dirt  
and water can, too.  
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Driving with a Trailer  
Following Distance  
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.  
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get  
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of  
handling and braking with the added weight of the  
trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are  
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as  
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.  
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you  
would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This  
can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking  
and sudden turns.  
Passing  
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when  
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal  
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the  
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.  
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform  
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,  
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has  
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and  
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure  
the brakes are working. This lets you check your  
electrical connection at the same time.  
Backing Up  
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.  
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand  
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your  
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if  
possible, have someone guide you.  
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the  
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes  
are still working.  
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Making Turns  
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer  
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a  
different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check  
with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument panel  
will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change.  
Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash,  
telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes  
or stop.  
NOTICE:  
Making very sharp turns while trailering could  
cause the trailer to come in contact with the  
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid  
making very sharp turns while trailering.  
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument  
panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer  
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you  
are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important  
to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are  
still working.  
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider  
turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t  
strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other  
objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well  
in advance.  
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Driving On Grades  
Parking on Hills  
NOTICE:  
CAUTION:  
Do not tow on steep continuous grades exceeding  
6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher than normal  
engine and transaxle temperatures may result  
and damage your vehicle. Frequent stops are  
very important to allow the engine and transaxle  
to cool.  
You really should not park your vehicle, with a  
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes  
wrong, your rig could start to move. People can  
be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer  
can be damaged.  
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s  
how to do it:  
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start  
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift  
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that  
they would get hot and no longer work well.  
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into  
PARK (P) yet or into gear for a manual transaxle.  
When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from  
the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels  
into the curb.  
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your  
speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the  
possibility of engine and transaxle overheating.  
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.  
Pay attention to the engine coolant gage. If the indicator  
is in the red area, turn off the air conditioning (if you  
have this option) to reduce engine load. See “Engine  
Overheating” in the Index.  
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the  
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.  
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking  
brake, and then shift to PARK (P).  
5. Release the regular brakes.  
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Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index  
will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s  
a good idea to review this information before you start  
your trip.  
When You Are Ready to Leave After  
Parking on a Hill  
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down  
while you:  
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts  
are tight.  
start your engine,  
shift into a gear, and  
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing  
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during  
severe operating conditions. See “Engine Overheating”  
in the Index.  
release the parking brake.  
2. Let up on the brake pedal.  
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.  
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.  
Towing a Trailer (Models with 2.2L L4  
(LN2) Engine or Manual Transaxle)  
Do not tow a trailer if your vehicle is:  
Maintenance When Trailer Towing  
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re  
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more  
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer  
operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill),  
engine oil, drive belt, cooling system and brake system.  
equipped with a 2.2L L4 (LN2) engine or  
equipped with a manual transaxle.  
4-41  
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Section 5 Problems on the Road  
Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.  
5-2  
5-3  
5-3  
5-8  
5-9  
Hazard Warning Flashers  
Other Warning Devices  
Jump Starting  
Towing Your Vehicle  
Engine Overheating  
5-11  
5-18  
5-19  
5-29  
5-30  
Cooling System  
If a Tire Goes Flat  
Changing a Flat Tire  
Compact Spare Tire  
If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow  
5-  
5-1  
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The hazard warning flasher  
switch is located on the top  
of the steering column.  
Hazard Warning Flashers  
Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what  
position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in.  
Move the switch to the right to make the front and rear  
turn signal lamps flash on and off. Move the switch to  
the left to turn the flashers off.  
When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn  
signals won’t work. Make sure the hazard warning  
flasher switch is all the way to the left for normal turn  
signal operation.  
Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They  
also let police know you have a problem. Your front and  
rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.  
5-2  
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Other Warning Devices  
If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up  
at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind  
your vehicle.  
NOTICE:  
Ignoring these steps could result in costly  
damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered  
by your warranty.  
Jump Starting  
The ACDelco battery in your vehicle has a  
built-in hydrometer. Do not charge, test or jump  
start the battery if the hydrometer looks clear  
or light yellow. Replace the battery when there  
is a clear or light yellow hydrometer and a  
cranking complaint.  
If your battery has run down, you may want to use  
another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your  
vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.  
CAUTION:  
Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling  
it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.  
Batteries can hurt you. They can be  
dangerous because:  
They contain acid that can burn you.  
They contain gas that can explode or ignite.  
They contain enough electricity to burn you.  
1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt  
battery with a negative ground system.  
If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all  
of these things can hurt you.  
NOTICE:  
If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a  
negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.  
5-3  
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2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables  
can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching  
each other. If they are, it could cause a ground  
connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to  
start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could  
damage the electrical systems.  
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug  
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette  
lighter or in the accessory power outlet. Turn off the  
radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will  
avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it  
could save your radio!  
To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set  
the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in  
the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle  
in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL  
before setting the parking brake.  
4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the  
positive (+) and negative (-) terminal locations on  
each vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview”  
in the Index for more information on location.  
CAUTION:  
NOTICE:  
An electric fan can start up even when the engine  
is not running and can injure you. Keep hands,  
clothing and tools away from any underhood  
electric fan.  
If you leave your radio on, it could be badly  
damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by  
your warranty.  
5-4  
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CAUTION:  
CAUTION:  
Using a match near a battery can cause battery  
gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this,  
and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if  
you need more light.  
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you  
badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts  
once the engine is running.  
Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t  
need to add water to the ACDelco battery  
installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a  
battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount  
of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take  
care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could  
be present.  
5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or  
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock.  
The vehicles could be damaged, too.  
Before you connect the cables, here are some basic  
things you should know. Positive (+) will go to  
positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if  
the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy,  
unpainted metal engine part or to a remote  
Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you.  
Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in  
your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with  
water and get medical help immediately.  
negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.  
Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll  
get a short that would damage the battery and maybe  
other parts too. And don’t connect the negative (-)  
cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead battery  
because this can cause sparks.  
5-5  
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7. Don’t let the other end  
touch metal. Connect it  
to the positive (+)  
terminal of the good  
battery. Use a remote  
positive (+) terminal if  
the vehicle has one.  
8. Now connect the black  
negative (-) cable to the  
negative (-) terminal of  
the good battery. Use a  
remote negative (-)  
terminal if the vehicle  
has one.  
6. Remove the terminal cover, and connect the red  
positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the  
dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if  
the vehicle has one.  
5-6  
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Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next  
step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesnt  
go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted  
metal part or to a remote negative (-) terminal on the  
vehicle with the dead battery.  
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run  
the engine for a while.  
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.  
If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably  
needs service.  
NOTICE:  
Damage to your vehicle may result from  
electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed  
incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take  
care that the cables don’t touch each other or any  
other metal part. The repairs wouldn’t be  
covered by your warranty.  
9. Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable at  
least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery,  
but not near engine parts that move. The electrical  
connection is just as good there, and the chance of  
sparks getting back to the battery is much less.  
5-7  
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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do  
the following:  
1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the  
vehicle that had the dead battery.  
2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the  
vehicle with the good battery.  
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the  
vehicle with the good battery.  
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the  
other vehicle.  
5. Return the terminal cover to its original position.  
Towing Your Vehicle  
Jumper Cable Removal  
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part  
B. Good Battery  
Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if  
you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See  
“Roadside Assistance” in the Index. If you want to tow  
your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational  
purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see  
C. Dead Battery  
“Recreational Vehicle Towing” in the Index.  
5-8  
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Engine Overheating  
CAUTION:  
You will find a coolant temperature gage and a low  
coolant warning light on your vehicle’s instrument  
panel. See “Engine Coolant Temperature Gage” and  
“Low Coolant Warning Light” in the Index.  
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you  
badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away  
from the engine if you see or hear steam coming  
from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away  
from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until  
there is no sign of steam or coolant before you  
open the hood.  
If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine  
If you keep driving when your engine is  
overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or  
others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if  
it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the  
engine is cool.  
NOTICE:  
If your engine catches fire because you keep  
driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be  
badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be  
covered by your warranty.  
5-9  
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3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);  
otherwise, shift to the highest gear while  
driving -- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D)  
for automatic transaxles.  
If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine  
An overheat warning, along with a low coolant light,  
can indicate a serious problem. See “Low Coolant  
Light” in the Index.  
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can  
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.  
If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can  
drive normally.  
If you get an engine overheat warning with no low  
coolant light, but see or hear no steam, the problem may  
not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little  
too hot when you:  
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your  
vehicle right away.  
Climb a long hill on a hot day.  
Stop after high-speed driving.  
Idle for long periods in traffic.  
Tow a trailer.  
If there’s still no sign of steam, idle the engine for  
three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the  
warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the  
vehicle until it cools down.  
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,  
try this for a minute or so:  
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service  
help right away.  
1. If you have an air conditioner and it’s on, turn it off.  
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan  
speed and open the window as necessary.  
5-10  
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Cooling System  
When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what  
you’ll see:  
2.2L L4 ECOTEC (L61) Engine  
A. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap  
B. Electric Engine Cooling Fan  
2.2L L4 (LN2) Engine  
A. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap  
B. Electric Engine Cooling Fan  
5-11  
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CAUTION:  
An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can  
start up even when the engine is not running and  
can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools  
away from any underhood electric fan.  
If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling,  
don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle  
should be parked on a level surface.  
The coolant level  
2.4L L4 (LD9) Engine  
A. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap  
B. Electric Engine Cooling Fan  
should be at the FULL  
COLD mark. If it isn’t,  
you may have a leak at  
the pressure cap or in  
the radiator hoses,  
heater hoses, radiator,  
water pump or  
somewhere else in the  
cooling system.  
5-12  
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NOTICE:  
CAUTION:  
Engine damage from running your engine  
without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.  
Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine  
parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you  
do, you can be burned.  
Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run  
the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could  
cause an engine fire, and you could be burned.  
Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.  
NOTICE:  
When adding coolant, it is important that you use  
only DEX-COOL (silicate-free) coolant.  
If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to  
see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the  
engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it  
isn’t, your vehicle needs service.  
If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the  
system, premature engine, heater core or  
radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the  
engine coolant will require change sooner -- at  
30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months,  
whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the  
use of coolant other than DEX-COOL is not  
covered by your new vehicle warranty.  
5-13  
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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant  
Surge Tank  
CAUTION:  
Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling  
system can blow out and burn you badly. They are  
under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge  
tank pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come  
out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the  
cooling system, including the coolant surge tank  
pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system  
and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you  
ever have to turn the pressure cap.  
NOTICE:  
This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure.  
Failure to follow this procedure could cause your  
engine to overheat and be severely damaged.  
If you haven’t found a problem yet, check to see if  
coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible  
but the coolant level isn’t at the FULL COLD mark, add  
a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and  
DEX-COOL coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be  
sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank  
pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See “Engine  
Coolant” in the Index for more information.  
If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant  
as follows:  
5-14  
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NOTICE:  
CAUTION:  
In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the  
engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.  
So use the recommended coolant.  
Adding only plain water to your cooling system  
can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other  
liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper  
coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant  
warning system is set for the proper coolant  
mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture,  
your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t  
get the overheat warning. Your engine could  
catch fire and you or others could be burned.  
Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water  
and DEX-COOL coolant.  
CAUTION:  
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot  
engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol  
and it will burn if the engine parts are hot  
enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.  
5-15  
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1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. You can remove  
the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling  
system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap  
and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the  
pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) about  
two or two and one-half turns. If you hear a hiss,  
wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure  
still left to be vented out the discharge hose.  
2. Then keep turning  
the pressure cap  
slowly, and  
remove it.  
5-16  
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4. With the coolant  
surge tank pressure  
cap off, start the  
engine and let it  
run until you can  
feel the upper  
radiator hose  
getting hot. Watch  
out for the engine  
cooling fan.  
By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant  
surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower than  
the FULL COLD mark add more of the proper  
mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level  
reaches the FULL COLD mark.  
3. Then fill the coolant surge tank with the proper  
mixture, to the hash mark on the label. Wait about  
five minutes, then check to see if the level is below  
the hash mark. If the level is below the hash mark,  
add additional coolant to bring the level up to the  
hash mark. Repeat this procedure until the level  
remains constant at the hash mark for at least  
five minutes.  
5-17  
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5. Then replace the  
pressure cap. Be  
sure the pressure  
cap is hand-tight  
and fully seated.  
If a Tire Goes Flat  
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving,  
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes  
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.  
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few  
tips about what to expect and what to do:  
See your dealer  
if necessary.  
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that  
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the  
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.  
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to  
a stop well out of the traffic lane.  
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a  
skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a  
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the  
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by  
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be  
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently  
brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible.  
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your  
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.  
5-18  
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Changing a Flat Tire  
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage  
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard  
warning flashers.  
CAUTION:  
Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle  
can slip off the jack and roll over you or other  
people. You and they could be badly injured.  
Find a level place to change your tire. To help  
prevent the vehicle from moving:  
1. Set the parking brake firmly.  
2. Put an automatic transaxle shift lever in  
PARK (P), or shift a manual transaxle to  
FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).  
The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and  
change a tire.  
3. Turn off the engine.  
To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move,  
you can put blocks at the front and rear of the  
tire farthest away from the one being changed.  
That would be the tire on the other side of the  
vehicle, at the opposite end.  
5-19  
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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools  
The equipment you’ll need  
is located in the trunk.  
1. Turn the compact retainer nut on the compact spare  
cover counterclockwise to remove it.  
2. Lift and remove the tire cover. See “Compact Spare  
Tire” later in this section for more information about  
the compact spare tire.  
5-20  
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3. Turn the wing bolt  
counterclockwise and  
remove it. Then lift off  
the adapter and remove  
the compact spare tire.  
4. Your vehicle’s jack and wheel wrench are stored in a  
foam tray. Remove the jack and the wheel wrench  
from the trunk. Remove the band around the jack.  
The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A) and  
wheel wrench (B).  
5-21  
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2. Then use the wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel  
nuts. Don’t remove them yet.  
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the  
Spare Tire  
3. Near each wheel well is a notch in the frame which  
the jack head fits in. The front notch is 9 inches  
(23 cm) back from the front wheel well. The rear  
notch is 8 inches (20 cm) forward from the rear  
wheel well. As shown by the diagram, if your  
vehicle has flared side moldings, both front and rear  
notches are 18 inches (46 cm) from the wheel wells.  
1. If your vehicle is equipped with wheel covers, use  
the wheel wrench to begin loosening the plastic  
wheel nut caps. Once you have loosened the plastic  
wheel nut caps with the wheel wrench you can finish  
loosening them with your fingers. Using the flat end  
of the wheel wrench, pry along the edge of the wheel  
cover until it comes off.  
Position the jack under the vehicle. Raise the jack  
head until it fits firmly into the notch in the vehicle’s  
frame nearest the flat tire. Put the compact spare tire  
near you.  
If your vehicle has alloy wheels, first remove the  
decorative nut caps (if equipped) using the wheel wrench.  
5-22  
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CAUTION:  
Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is  
dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you  
could be badly injured or killed. Never get under  
a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.  
CAUTION:  
Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly  
positioned can damage the vehicle and even  
make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal  
injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack  
lift head into the proper location before raising  
the vehicle.  
4. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle  
clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the  
ground so there is enough room for the compact  
spare tire to fit underneath the wheel well.  
5. Remove all of the wheel nuts.  
5-23  
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6. Remove any rust or dirt  
from the wheel bolts,  
mounting surfaces and  
spare wheel.  
CAUTION:  
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you  
do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could  
fall off, causing a serious accident.  
7. Place the compact spare tire on the  
wheel-mounting surface.  
8. Reinstall the wheel nuts  
with the rounded end of  
the nuts toward the  
CAUTION:  
wheel. Tighten each nut  
by hand until the wheel  
is held against the hub.  
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to  
which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts  
become loose after a time. The wheel could come  
off and cause an accident. When you change a  
wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places  
where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an  
emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel  
to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire  
brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or  
dirt off.  
5-24  
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10. Tighten the wheel  
nuts firmly in a  
crisscross sequence,  
as shown.  
9. Lower the vehicle by turning the wheel jack handle  
counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.  
5-25  
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NOTICE:  
CAUTION:  
Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to  
brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid  
expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel  
nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper  
torque specification.  
Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened  
wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose  
and even come off. This could lead to an accident.  
Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have  
to replace them, be sure to get new GM original  
equipment wheel nuts.  
Don’t try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare  
tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until  
you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.  
Stop somewhere as soon as you can and  
have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench  
to 100 lb-ft (140 N·m).  
NOTICE:  
Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare.  
If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact  
spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.  
5-26  
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Storing the Flat Tire and Tools  
CAUTION:  
Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the  
passenger compartment of the vehicle could  
cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose  
equipment could strike someone. Store all these  
in the proper place.  
A. Wrench  
F. Wing Bolt  
(Extension Installed)  
B. Jack  
G. Cover  
H. Nut  
C. Flat Road Tire  
D. Adapter  
E. Extension  
Store the flat tire in the compact spare tire compartment  
and secure the adapter, extension (aluminum wheel  
only) and wing bolt. Store the jack and wheel wrench in  
the foam tray.  
5-27  
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Storing the Spare Tire and Tools  
CAUTION:  
Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the  
passenger compartment of the vehicle could  
cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose  
equipment could strike someone. Store all these  
in the proper place.  
The compact spare tire is for temporary use only.  
Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as  
soon as you can. See “Compact Spare Tire” next in  
this section.  
A. Wrench  
E. Wing Bolt  
F. Cover  
G. Nut  
B. Jack  
C. Compact Spare Tire  
D. Adapter  
5-28  
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Compact Spare Tire  
NOTICE:  
Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated  
when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time.  
Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should  
be 60 psi (420 kPa).  
When the compact spare is installed, don’t take  
your vehicle through an automatic car wash with  
guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on  
the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel,  
and maybe other parts of your vehicle.  
After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you  
should stop as soon as possible and make sure your  
spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is  
made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph  
(105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km),  
so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire  
repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best  
to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you  
can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in  
case you need it again.  
Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles.  
And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with  
other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare  
tire and its wheel together.  
NOTICE:  
Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using  
them can damage your vehicle and can damage  
the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your  
compact spare.  
5-29  
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If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud,  
Ice or Snow  
NOTICE:  
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will  
need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin  
your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking”  
can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must  
use caution.  
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your  
vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels  
too fast while shifting your transaxle back and  
forth, you can destroy your transaxle.  
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,  
see “Tire Chains” in the Index.  
CAUTION:  
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out  
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can  
explode, and you or others could be injured. And,  
the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can  
overheat. That could cause an engine  
compartment fire or other damage. When you’re  
stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t  
spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown  
on the speedometer.  
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will  
clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back  
and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear  
(or with a manual transaxle, between FIRST (1) or  
SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the wheels  
as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while  
you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal  
when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning your  
wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will  
cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If  
that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need  
to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see  
“Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.  
5-30  
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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care  
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,  
and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your  
vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.  
6-2  
Service  
Fuel  
6-30  
6-31  
6-34  
6-35  
6-40  
6-49  
6-49  
6-51  
6-53  
6-57  
6-58  
6-63  
6-63  
6-64  
Windshield Washer Fluid  
Brakes  
Battery  
Bulb Replacement  
Tires  
Appearance Care  
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle  
Care of Safety Belts  
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle  
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)  
Electrical System  
6-3  
6-5  
Fuels in Foreign Countries  
Filling Your Tank  
Filling a Portable Fuel Container  
Checking Things Under the Hood  
Engine Oil  
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter  
Automatic Transaxle Fluid  
Manual Transaxle Fluid  
Hydraulic Clutch  
6-6  
6-8  
6-9  
6-14  
6-21  
6-23  
6-24  
6-24  
6-25  
6-28  
6-29  
Engine Coolant  
Surge Tank Pressure Cap  
Power Steering Fluid  
Replacement Bulbs  
Capacities and Specifications  
Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts  
6-  
6-1  
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Doing Your Own Service Work  
Service  
If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll  
want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much  
more about how to service your vehicle than this manual  
can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service  
and Owner Publications” in the Index.  
Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to  
be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for  
all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and  
GM-trained and supported service people.  
We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM.  
Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:  
Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to  
do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air  
Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.  
You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list  
the mileage and the date of any service work you  
perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.  
6-2  
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Fuel  
CAUTION:  
Gasoline Octane  
Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of  
87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a  
heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it is bad  
enough, it can damage your engine. A little pinging  
noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered  
normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a  
higher-octane fuel is necessary.  
You can be injured and your vehicle could be  
damaged if you try to do service work on a  
vehicle without knowing enough about it.  
Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,  
experience, the proper replacement parts  
and tools before you attempt any vehicle  
maintenance task.  
Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and  
other fasteners. “English” and “metric”  
fasteners can be easily confused. If you use  
the wrong fasteners, parts can later break  
or fall off. You could be hurt.  
Gasoline Specifications  
It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications  
which were developed by the American Automobile  
Manufacturers Association and endorsed by the  
Canadian Vehicle Manufacturers’ Association for better  
vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines  
meeting these specifications could provide improved  
driveability and emission control system performance  
compared to other gasolines.  
Adding Equipment to the Outside of  
Your Vehicle  
Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can  
affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise  
and affect windshield washer performance. Check with  
your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of  
your vehicle.  
6-3  
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California Fuel  
In Canada, look for  
the “Auto Makers’  
Choice” label on  
the pump.  
If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission  
Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it  
is designed to operate on fuels that meet California  
specifications. If this fuel is not available in states  
adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle  
will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal  
specifications, but emission control system performance  
may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may  
turn on (see “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index)  
and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this  
occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for  
diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused  
by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by  
your warranty.  
Canada Only  
6-4  
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Additives  
NOTICE:  
Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low  
emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive  
called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl  
(MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline  
whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors  
does not recommend the use of such gasolines.  
Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark  
plugs and the performance of the emission control  
system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp  
may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized  
GM dealer for service.  
Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that  
contains methanol. Don’t use fuel containing  
methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your  
fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber  
parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under  
your warranty.  
Fuels in Foreign Countries  
To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States  
are now required to contain additives that will help  
prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming,  
allowing your emission control system to work properly.  
You should not have to add anything to your fuel.  
Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and  
ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in  
your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors  
recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if  
they comply with the specifications described earlier.  
If you plan on driving in another country outside the  
United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to  
find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not  
recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs  
caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by  
your warranty.  
To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or  
contact a major oil company that does business in the  
country where you’ll be driving.  
6-5  
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Filling Your Tank  
CAUTION:  
Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns  
violently, and that can cause very bad injuries.  
Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling  
your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking  
materials away from gasoline.  
The fuel cap is behind a hinged door on the passenger’s  
side of your vehicle.  
6-6  
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CAUTION:  
If you get gasoline on yourself and then  
something ignites it, you could be badly burned.  
Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the  
fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if  
your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot  
weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for  
any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all  
the way.  
Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from  
painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the  
Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.  
While refueling, hang the fuel cap inside the fuel door  
by placing the fuel cap tether in the hanger.  
To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left  
(counterclockwise). The fuel cap has a spring in it; if  
you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to  
the right.  
6-7  
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When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right  
(clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure  
you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can  
determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly  
installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the  
atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in  
the Index.  
Filling a Portable Fuel Container  
CAUTION:  
Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in  
your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the  
container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can  
be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this  
occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:  
NOTICE:  
If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the  
right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you  
get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This  
may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to  
light and may damage your fuel tank and  
emissions system. See “Malfunction Indicator  
Lamp” in the Index.  
Dispense gasoline only into  
approved containers.  
Do not fill a container while it is inside a  
vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or  
on any surface other than the ground.  
Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the  
inside of the fill opening before operating  
the nozzle. Contact should be maintained  
until the filling is complete.  
Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.  
6-8  
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Hood Release  
To open the hood, do the following:  
Checking Things Under the Hood  
CAUTION:  
1. Pull the handle  
located inside  
the vehicle on  
the driver’s  
side under the  
instrument panel.  
An electric fan under the hood can start up and  
injure you even when the engine is not running.  
Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any  
underhood electric fan.  
CAUTION:  
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and  
start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline,  
oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and  
other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others  
could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill  
things that will burn onto a hot engine.  
6-9  
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3. Lift the hood,  
release the hood  
prop from its  
retainer and put the  
hood prop into the  
slot in the hood  
marked “PROP  
ROD.” Use the  
prop rod sleeve  
when handling the  
prop rod.  
Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on  
properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the  
hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the  
hood and return the prop to its retainer. Lower the hood  
8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) above the vehicle and  
release it to latch fully. Check to make sure the hood is  
closed and repeat the process if necessary.  
2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and lift up on the  
secondary hood release lever. The secondary hood  
release lever is located near the front center of the  
hood toward the driver’s side.  
6-10  
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Engine Compartment Overview  
When you open up the hood on the 2.2L L4 (LN2) engine you’ll see:  
A. Coolant Surge Tank  
B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir  
C. Engine Oil Fill Cap/Dipstick  
D. Brake Fluid Reservoir  
E. Clutch Master Cylinder  
Reservoir (If Equipped)  
F. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter  
G. Battery  
H. Windshield Washer  
Fluid Reservoir  
6-11  
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When you open up the hood on the 2.2L L4 ECOTEC (L61) engine you’ll see:  
A. Coolant Surge Tank  
B. Engine Oil Dipstick  
C. Engine Oil Fill Cap  
D. Brake Fluid Reservoir  
E. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir  
G. Battery  
H. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter  
I. Windshield Washer  
Fluid Reservoir  
F. Clutch Master Cylinder  
Reservoir (If Equipped)  
(Not Shown)  
6-12  
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When you open up your hood on the 2.4L L4 (LD9) engine you’ll see:  
A. Coolant Surge Tank  
E. Brake Fluid Reservoir  
H. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter  
B. Engine Oil Fill Cap  
C. Engine Oil Dipstick  
F. Clutch Master Cylinder  
Reservoir (If Equipped)  
I. Windshield Washer  
Fluid Reservoir  
G. Battery  
D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir  
6-13  
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Checking Engine Oil  
Engine Oil  
It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you  
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must  
be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.  
If the oil pressure light  
appears on the instrument  
cluster, it means you need  
to check your engine oil  
level right away.  
Check the oil here if you  
have a 2.2L L4 (LN2)  
engine. See “Engine  
Compartment Overview”  
in the Index for  
For more information, see “Oil Pressure Light” in  
the Index.  
more information.  
You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is  
an added reminder.  
2.2L L4 (LN2) Engine  
6-14  
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Check the oil here if you  
have a 2.2L L4 ECOTEC  
(L61) engine. The dipstick’s  
handle will be a yellow  
ring. See “Engine  
Compartment Overview”  
in the Index for  
more information.  
2.2L L4 ECOTEC  
(L61) Engine  
2.4L L4 (LD9) Engine  
Check the oil here if you have a 2.4L L4 (LD9) engine.  
The dipstick’s handle will be a yellow ring. See “Engine  
Compartment Overview” in the Index for more  
information on location.  
Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to  
drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick  
might not show the actual level.  
Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or  
cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again,  
keeping the tip down, and check the level.  
6-15  
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2.2L L4 ECOTEC (L61) Engine  
2.2L L4 (LN2) and 2.4L L4 (LD9) Engine  
6-16  
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When to Add Engine Oil  
If the oil is at or below the ADD mark for a  
2.2L L4 (LN2) or 2.4L L4 (LD9) engine, or at or below  
the MIN mark for a 2.2L L4 ECOTEC (L61) engine,  
then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you  
must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of  
oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see  
“Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.  
NOTICE:  
Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so  
much oil that the oil level gets above the upper  
mark that shows the proper operating range,  
your engine could be damaged.  
2.2L L4 (LN2) Engine  
This is where you add oil if you have a 2.2L L4 (LN2)  
engine. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the  
Index for more information on location.  
6-17  
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2.2L L4 ECOTEC (L61) Engine  
2.4L L4 (LD9) Engine  
This is where you add oil if you have a  
2.2L L4 ECOTEC (L61) engine. See “Engine  
Compartment Overview” in the Index for more  
information on location.  
This is where you add oil if you have a 2.4L L4 (LD9)  
engine. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the  
Index for more information on location.  
Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in  
the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way  
back in when you’re through.  
6-18  
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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use  
Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by  
looking for the starburst symbol.  
This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by  
the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any  
oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.  
If you change your own oil,  
be sure you use oil that has  
the starburst symbol on the  
front of the oil container. If  
you have your oil changed  
for you, be sure the oil put  
into your engine is  
American Petroleum  
Institute certified for  
gasoline engines.  
You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your  
vehicle, as shown in the following chart:  
6-19  
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As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W-30 is best for  
your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it’s  
going to be 0 F (-18 C) or above. These numbers on an  
oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use  
other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.  
Engine Oil Additives  
Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils  
with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good  
performance and engine protection.  
When to Change Engine Oil  
If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city  
maintenance schedule:  
NOTICE:  
Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is  
particularly important when outside temperatures  
are below freezing.  
Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum  
Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines  
starburst symbol. Failure to use the  
recommended oil can result in engine damage not  
covered by your warranty.  
Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent  
driving in stop-and-go traffic).  
The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi  
or other commercial application.  
GM Goodwrench oil meets all the requirements for  
your vehicle.  
Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to  
break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your  
vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter  
every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever  
occurs first.  
If you are in an area where the temperature falls  
below -20 F (-29 C), consider using either an  
SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both  
will provide easier cold starting and better protection for  
your engine at extremely low temperatures.  
If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway  
maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every  
7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever  
occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed  
engine under highway conditions will cause engine oil  
to break down slower.  
6-20  
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If your vehicle is equipped with a 2.2L L4 ECOTEC  
(L61) engine, it has a unique oil filter element. When  
reinstalling the filter cap, do not exceed 18 lb-ft  
(25 N m). Inspect the condition of the O-ring and  
replace if damaged.  
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter  
See your dealer for additional information.  
What to Do with Used Oil  
Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be  
unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer.  
Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean  
your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand  
cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags  
containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s  
warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.  
Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you  
change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from  
the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting  
it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or  
into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by  
taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have  
a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask  
your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center  
for help.  
The engine air cleaner/filter is located near the battery  
on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine  
Compartment Overview” in the Index for more  
information on location.  
6-21  
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CAUTION:  
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter  
off can cause you or others to be burned. The air  
cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if  
the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the  
engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t  
drive with it off, and be careful working on the  
engine with the air cleaner/filter off.  
To check or replace the filter, remove the screws that  
hold the cover on and lift off the cover. Be sure to  
reinstall the cover tightly.  
NOTICE:  
If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can  
cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily  
get into your engine, which will damage it.  
Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when  
you’re driving.  
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to  
replace the air filter.  
See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.  
6-22  
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Automatic Transaxle Fluid  
NOTICE:  
It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level. A  
transaxle fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a  
leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealership service  
department and have it repaired as soon as possible. You  
may also have your fluid level checked by your dealer  
or service center when you have your oil changed.  
We recommend you use only fluid labeled  
DEXRON -III, because fluid with that label is  
made especially for your automatic transaxle.  
Damage caused by fluid other than  
DEXRON -III is not covered by your new  
vehicle warranty.  
Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles  
(83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or  
more of these conditions:  
In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature  
regularly reaches 90 F (32 C) or higher.  
In hilly or mountainous terrain.  
When doing frequent trailer towing.  
Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.  
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these  
conditions, the fluid and filter do not require changing.  
6-23  
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When to Check and What to Use  
Manual Transaxle Fluid  
It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level. A  
transaxle fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a  
leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealership service  
department and have it repaired as soon as possible. You  
may also have your fluid level checked by your dealer  
or service center when you have your oil changed. See  
“Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for  
the proper fluid to use.  
Hydraulic Clutch  
The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is  
self-adjusting. The clutch master cylinder reservoir is  
filled with hydraulic clutch fluid.  
It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless  
you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid  
won’t correct a leak.  
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how  
often you should check the fluid level in your clutch  
master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See  
“Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended  
Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.  
A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem.  
Have the system inspected and repaired.  
6-24  
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A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and  
DEX-COOL coolant will:  
How to Check and Add Fluid  
You do not need to check the fluid level unless you  
suspect a clutch problem. To check the fluid level, take  
the cap off. If the fluid reaches the step inside the  
reservoir, the fluid level is correct. The reservoir is  
located near the back of the engine compartment on  
the driver’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine  
Compartment Overview” in the Index for more  
information on location.  
Give freezing protection down to -34 F (-37 C).  
Give boiling protection up to 265 F (129 C).  
Protect against rust and corrosion.  
Help keep the proper engine temperature.  
Let the warning lights and gages work as  
they should.  
Engine Coolant  
The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with  
DEX-COOL engine coolant. This coolant is designed  
to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles  
(240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only  
DEX-COOL extended life coolant.  
NOTICE:  
When adding coolant, it is important that you use  
only DEX-COOL (silicate-free) coolant.  
If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the  
system, premature engine, heater core or  
radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the  
engine coolant will require change sooner -- at  
30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months,  
The following explains your cooling system and how  
to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem  
with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in  
the Index.  
whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use  
of coolant other than DEX-COOL is not  
covered by your new vehicle warranty.  
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What to Use  
NOTICE:  
Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and  
one-half DEX-COOL coolant which won’t damage  
aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you  
don’t need to add anything else.  
If you use an improper coolant mixture, your  
engine could overheat and be badly damaged.  
The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your  
warranty. Too much water in the mixture can  
freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater  
core and other parts.  
CAUTION:  
Adding only plain water to your cooling system  
can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other  
liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper  
coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant  
warning system is set for the proper coolant  
mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture,  
your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t  
get the overheat warning. Your engine could  
catch fire and you or others could be burned.  
Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water  
and DEX-COOL coolant.  
If you have to add coolant more than four times a year,  
have your dealer check your cooling system.  
NOTICE:  
If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to  
add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to  
improve the system. These can be harmful.  
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Checking Coolant  
CAUTION:  
The coolant surge tank is  
located in the engine  
compartment on the  
passenger’s side of the  
vehicle. See “Engine  
Compartment Overview”  
in the Index for more  
information on location.  
Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the  
engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and  
scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly.  
Never turn the surge tank pressure cap -- even a  
little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.  
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your  
engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL  
COLD mark or a little higher.  
If the low coolant light  
comes on and stays on,  
it means you’re low on  
engine coolant.  
See “Low Coolant Light” in the Index.  
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Adding Coolant  
Surge Tank Pressure Cap  
NOTICE:  
If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL  
coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the  
engine is cool. If the surge tank is empty, a special fill  
procedure is necessary. See “Engine Overheating” in the  
Index for instructions on “How to Add Coolant to the  
Coolant Surge Tank.”  
Your surge tank cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa)  
pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to  
prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage  
from overheating.  
CAUTION:  
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot  
engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol,  
and it will burn if the engine parts are hot  
enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.  
When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it  
is hand-tight.  
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When to Check Power Steering Fluid  
Power Steering Fluid  
It is not necessary to regularly check power steering  
fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or  
you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system  
could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and  
repaired. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the  
Index for reservoir location.  
For the 2.2L L4 (LN2)  
engine, the power steering  
fluid reservoir is located  
toward the rear of the  
engine compartment on  
the passenger’s side of  
the vehicle.  
How to Check Power Steering Fluid  
Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down,  
wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then  
unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag.  
Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove  
the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick.  
For the 2.2L L4 ECOTEC (L61) and 2.4L L4 (LD9)  
engines, it is located toward the front of the engine  
compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See  
“Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more  
information on location.  
The level should be at the “C” mark. If necessary, add  
enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark.  
What to Use  
To determine what kind of fluid to use, see  
“Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.  
Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper  
fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.  
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Windshield Washer Fluid  
NOTICE:  
What to Use  
When using concentrated washer fluid,  
follow the manufacturer’s instructions for  
adding water.  
Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer  
fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze  
and damage your washer fluid tank and  
other parts of the washer system. Also,  
water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.  
Fill your washer fluid tank only  
three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This  
allows for expansion if freezing occurs,  
which could damage the tank if it is  
completely full.  
When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read  
the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be  
operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature  
may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient  
protection against freezing. See “Engine Compartment  
Overview” in the Index for reservoir location.  
Adding Washer Fluid  
Open the cap with the  
washer symbol on it.  
Add washer fluid until  
the tank is full.  
Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in  
your windshield washer. It can damage  
your washer system and paint.  
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goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out  
of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake  
system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your  
brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all.  
Brakes  
Brake Fluid  
So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid.  
Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid  
when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much  
fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add  
(or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work  
is done on the brake hydraulic system.  
CAUTION:  
If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on  
the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is  
hot enough. You or others could be burned,  
and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake  
fluid only when work is done on the brake  
hydraulic system.  
Your brake master cylinder reservoir is on the driver’s side  
of the engine compartment. It is filled with DOT-3 brake  
fluid. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index.  
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the  
reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid  
goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake  
lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level  
When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake  
warning light will come on. See “Brake System Warning  
Light” in the Index.  
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What to Add  
NOTICE:  
When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake  
fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only.  
See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in  
the Index.  
Using the wrong fluid can badly damage  
brake system parts. For example, just a few  
drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine  
oil, in your brake system can damage brake  
system parts so badly that they’ll have to be  
replaced. Don’t let someone put in the  
wrong kind of fluid.  
Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area  
around the cap before removing it. This will help keep  
dirt from entering the reservoir.  
If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s  
painted surfaces, the paint finish can be  
damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid  
on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off  
immediately. See “Appearance Care” in  
the Index.  
CAUTION:  
With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake  
system, your brakes may not work well, or they  
may not even work at all. This could cause a  
crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.  
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Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake  
squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly  
applied. This does not mean something is wrong with  
your brakes.  
Brake Wear  
Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes.  
Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that  
make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake  
pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound  
may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is  
moving (except when you are pushing on the brake  
pedal firmly).  
See “Caliper/Knuckle Maintenance Inspection” in  
Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic  
Maintenance Inspections.”  
Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help  
prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect  
brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the  
proper sequence to GM torque specifications.  
CAUTION:  
Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if  
you ever hear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake  
linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake  
drums should be removed and inspected each time the  
tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you  
have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes  
inspected, too.  
The brake wear warning sound means that soon  
your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to  
an accident. When you hear the brake wear  
warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.  
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete  
axle sets.  
NOTICE:  
See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual  
under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.”  
Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads  
could result in costly brake repair.  
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If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly.  
For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are  
wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front  
and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The  
braking performance you’ve come to expect can change  
in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong  
replacement brake parts.  
Brake Pedal Travel  
See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to  
normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal  
travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.  
Brake Adjustment  
Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your disc  
brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or  
heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly.  
If you drive in that way, then -- very carefully -- make  
a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles  
(1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly.  
Battery  
Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free  
ACDelco battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get  
one that has the replacement number shown on the  
original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco  
battery. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the  
Index for battery location.  
If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your  
rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by  
backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times.  
WARNING: Battery posts, terminals and related  
accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals  
known to the State of California to cause cancer and  
reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.  
Replacing Brake System Parts  
The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many  
parts have to be of top quality and work well together if  
the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle  
was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake  
parts. When you replace parts of your braking  
system -- for example, when your brake linings wear  
down and you need new ones put in -- be sure you get  
new approved GM replacement parts.  
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Vehicle Storage  
Bulb Replacement  
If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days  
or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from  
the battery. This will help keep your battery from  
running down.  
For the type of bulb to use, see “Replacement Bulbs” in  
the Index.  
For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this  
section, contact your dealer.  
Halogen Bulbs  
CAUTION:  
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas  
that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you  
aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index  
for tips on working around a battery without  
getting hurt.  
CAUTION:  
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and  
can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or  
others could be injured. Be sure to read and  
follow the instructions on the bulb package.  
Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle  
for longer storage periods.  
Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent  
Feature” in the Index.  
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Headlamps  
To replace one of your headlamps, do the following:  
2. Remove the bolts that anchor the headlamp  
assembly. Pull the headlamp assembly toward the  
front of the vehicle to access the bulb assembly.  
1. Remove the six plastic fasteners holding the shield  
after opening the hood. Use the blade of a  
screwdriver to pull up the center of the fastener.  
Be careful not to break the fasteners that hold the  
shield in place.  
3. Twist the bulb retainer one-eighth of a turn  
counterclockwise and pull the bulb assembly out.  
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4. Disconnect the bulb  
base from the socket  
by lifting the plastic  
locking tab.  
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL)  
(Models Without a Spoiler)  
To change the bulb, do the following:  
1. Open the trunk and view the access hole under the  
rear shelf.  
2. Remove the bulb socket by twisting it in either  
direction, then pull down.  
3. Remove the bulb and replace it.  
4. Reinstall the bulb socket into the CHMSL.  
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL)  
(Models With a Spoiler)  
To change the bulb, do the following:  
1. Unscrew the bulb assembly from the spoiler.  
2. Gently pull out the bulb assembly.  
5. Snap a new bulb into the socket.  
6. Reinstall the bulb assembly by reversing Steps 1  
through 3, making sure the lower leg of the  
headlamp bracket is properly seated into the  
wedge-shaped retainer.  
3. Remove the bulb(s) by gently wiggling the bulb(s)  
from the assembly.  
4. Replace the bulb(s) and reverse these steps to  
reinstall the bulb assembly.  
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Taillamps and Rear Turn Signal Lamps  
3. To remove the bulb, pull it out of the assembly.  
4. Push in a new bulb.  
To replace a bulb, do the following:  
5. Reverse Steps 1 and 2 to reinstall the  
taillamp assembly.  
1. Remove the fastener which holds down the trunk  
trim. (On vehicles without a convenience net, pry the  
fastener loose. On vehicles with a convenience net,  
remove the net and unscrew the fastener.) Then pull  
down the trunk trim.  
2. Remove the taillamp bulb assembly by turning it  
one-quarter of a turn counterclockwise.  
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Back-Up Lamps  
If you have a four-door sedan, do the following to  
replace a back-up lamp:  
1. Remove the back-up lamp assembly from the fascia.  
2. Gently pull the bulb assembly from the fascia.  
3. Remove the bulb from the socket by turning it  
one-quarter turn counterclockwise.  
4. Replace the bulb and reinstall the bulb assembly by  
reversing Steps 1 and 2.  
Windshield Wiper  
Blade Replacement  
Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least  
twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade  
Check” in the Index for more information.  
1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from  
the windshield.  
2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly  
toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.  
Replacement blades come in different types and are  
removed in different ways. For proper type and length,  
see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.  
Here’s how to remove the Shepherd’s Hook type:  
3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2.  
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Tires  
CAUTION: (Continued)  
Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by  
a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions  
about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see  
your Pontiac Warranty booklet for details.  
Underinflated tires pose the same danger as  
overloaded tires. The resulting accident  
could cause serious injury. Check all tires  
frequently to maintain the recommended  
pressure. Tire pressure should be checked  
when your tires are cold.  
CAUTION:  
Overinflated tires are more likely to be  
cut, punctured or broken by a sudden  
impact -- such as when you hit a pothole.  
Keep tires at the recommended pressure.  
Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your  
tread is badly worn, or if your tires have  
been damaged, replace them.  
Poorly maintained and improperly used tires  
are dangerous.  
Overloading your tires can cause  
overheating as a result of too much friction.  
You could have an air-out and a serious  
accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in  
the Index.  
CAUTION: (Continued)  
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Inflation -- Tire Pressure  
NOTICE: (Continued)  
The Tire-Loading Information label, which is on the  
rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct  
inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold.  
“Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least  
three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).  
If your tires have too much air (overinflation),  
you can get the following:  
Unusual wear  
Bad handling  
Rough ride  
NOTICE:  
Needless damage from road hazards  
Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or  
overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires  
don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can  
get the following:  
When to Check  
Check your tires once a month or more.  
Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be  
at 60 psi (420 kPa).  
Too much flexing  
Too much heat  
Tire overloading  
Bad wear  
Bad handling  
Bad fuel economy  
How to Check  
Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire  
pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated  
simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look  
properly inflated even when they’re underinflated.  
NOTICE: (Continued)  
Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve  
stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt  
and moisture.  
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When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation  
pattern shown here.  
Tire Inspection and Rotation  
Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles  
(10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual  
wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check  
wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or  
wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and  
“Wheel Replacement” later in this section for  
more information.  
Don’t include the compact spare tire in your  
tire rotation.  
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and  
rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire-Loading  
Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts  
are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in  
the Index.  
The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more  
uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first  
rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled  
Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled  
rotation intervals.  
CAUTION:  
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which  
it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose  
after a time. The wheel could come off and cause  
an accident. When you change a wheel, remove  
any rust or dirt from places where the wheel  
attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can  
use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be  
sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you  
need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See  
“Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.  
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When It’s Time for New Tires  
One way to tell when it’s  
You need a new tire if any of the following statements  
are true:  
You can see the indicators at three or more places  
around the tire.  
time for new tires is to  
check the treadwear  
indicators, which will  
appear when your tires have  
only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or  
less of tread remaining.  
You can see cord or fabric showing through the  
tire’s rubber.  
The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep  
enough to show cord or fabric.  
The tire has a bump, bulge or split.  
The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that  
can’t be repaired well because of the size or location  
of the damage.  
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Buying New Tires  
CAUTION:  
To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at  
the Tire-Loading Information label.  
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while  
driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types  
(radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not  
handle properly, and you could have a crash.  
Using tires of different sizes may also cause  
damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same  
size and type tires on all wheels.  
The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had  
a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec)  
number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires,  
get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way  
your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed  
to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating,  
traction, ride and other things during normal service on  
your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread  
design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS”  
(for mud and snow).  
It’s all right to drive with your compact spare,  
though. It was developed for use on your vehicle.  
If you ever replace your tires with those not having  
a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same  
size, load range, speed rating and construction type  
(bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.  
CAUTION:  
If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the  
wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after  
many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could  
fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply  
tires with the wheels on your vehicle.  
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Treadwear  
Uniform Tire Quality Grading  
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on  
the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled  
conditions on a specified government test course.  
For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a  
half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course  
as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires  
depends upon the actual conditions of their use,  
however, and may depart significantly from the norm  
due to variations in driving habits, service practices and  
differences in road characteristics and climate.  
Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire  
sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section  
width. For example:  
Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A  
The following information relates to the system  
developed by the United States National Highway  
Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by  
treadwear, traction and temperature performance.  
(This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.)  
The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most  
passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading  
system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow  
tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with  
nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm),  
or to some limited-production tires.  
Traction -- AA, A, B, C  
The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A,  
B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop  
on wet pavement as measured under controlled  
conditions on specified government test surfaces of  
asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor  
traction performance. Warning: The traction grade  
assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking  
traction tests, and does not include acceleration,  
cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.  
While the tires available on General Motors passenger  
cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these  
grades, they must also conform to federal safety  
requirements and additional General Motors Tire  
Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.  
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Temperature -- A, B, C  
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance  
The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C,  
representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of  
heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under  
controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory  
test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the  
material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and  
excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure.  
The grade C corresponds to a level of performance  
which all passenger car tires must meet under the  
Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109.  
Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance  
on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required  
by law.  
The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced  
carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life  
and best overall performance.  
Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not  
needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or  
your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment  
may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle  
vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels  
may need to be rebalanced.  
Wheel Replacement  
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted  
or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel,  
wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the  
wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum  
wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your  
dealer if any of these conditions exist.  
Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is  
established for a tire that is properly inflated and not  
overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or  
excessive loading, either separately or in combination,  
can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.  
Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.  
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Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying  
capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the  
same way as the one it replaces.  
NOTICE:  
The wrong wheel can also cause problems with  
bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or  
odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper  
height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire  
chain clearance to the body and chassis.  
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts  
or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original  
equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the  
right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.  
CAUTION:  
See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for  
more information.  
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts  
or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous.  
It could affect the braking and handling of your  
vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you  
lose control. You could have a collision in which  
you or others could be injured. Always use the  
correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts  
for replacement.  
Used Replacement Wheels  
CAUTION:  
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is  
dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or  
how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly  
and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel,  
use a new GM original equipment wheel.  
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Tire Chains  
NOTICE:  
CAUTION:  
If your vehicle has a tire size other than  
P195/65R15 or P205/55R16 size tires, use tire  
chains only where legal and only when you must.  
Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the  
proper size for your tires. Install them on the  
front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible  
with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and  
follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If  
you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle,  
stop and retighten them. If the contact continues,  
slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or  
spinning the wheels with chains on will damage  
your vehicle.  
If your vehicle has P195/65R15 or P205/55R16  
size tires, don’t use tire chains, there’s not  
enough clearance.  
Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper  
amount of clearance can cause damage to the  
brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The  
area damaged by the tire chains could cause you  
to lose control of your vehicle and you or others  
may be injured in a crash.  
Use another type of traction device only if its  
manufacturer recommends it for use on your  
vehicle and tire size combination and road  
conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s  
instructions. To help avoid damage to your  
vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the  
device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t  
spin your wheels.  
If you do find traction devices that will fit, install  
them on the front tires.  
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They can all be hazardous -- some more than  
Appearance Care  
others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.  
Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some  
are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a  
match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are  
dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space.  
When you use anything from a container to clean your  
vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings  
and instructions. And always open your doors or  
windows when you’re cleaning the inside.  
Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can.  
In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:  
Alcohol  
Laundry Soap  
Bleach  
Reducing Agents  
Never use these to clean your vehicle:  
Gasoline  
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle  
Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose  
dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces  
with a clean, damp cloth.  
Benzene  
Naphtha  
Carbon Tetrachloride  
Acetone  
Cleaning of Fabric/Carpet  
Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and  
carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very  
well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from  
your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in  
the Index.  
Paint Thinner  
Turpentine  
Lacquer Thinner  
Nail Polish Remover  
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Here are some cleaning tips:  
Special Fabric Cleaning Problems  
Always read the instructions on the cleaner label.  
Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set.  
Carefully scrape off any excess stain.  
Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black),  
egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and  
blood can be removed as follows:  
1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the  
soiled area with cool water.  
Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a  
clean area often. A soft brush may be used if  
stains are stubborn.  
2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions  
described earlier.  
If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the  
entire area immediately or it will set.  
3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine,  
treat the area with a water/baking soda solution:  
1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml)  
of lukewarm water.  
Using Cleaner on Fabric  
1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt.  
4. Let dry.  
2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask  
surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.  
Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili  
sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows:  
3. Follow the directions on the container label.  
1. Carefully scrape off excess stain.  
4. Apply cleaner with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate  
the material and don’t rub it roughly.  
2. First, clean with cool water and allow to  
dry completely.  
5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge  
to remove any excess cleaner.  
3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions  
described earlier.  
6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, water-dampened  
towel or cloth.  
7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.  
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Cleaning Vinyl  
Cleaning Interior Plastic Components  
Use warm water and a clean cloth.  
Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft  
cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the  
surface finish.  
Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt.  
You may have to do it more than once.  
Care of Safety Belts  
Keep belts clean and dry.  
Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain  
if you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth  
and a vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for  
this product.  
CAUTION:  
Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel  
Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces  
of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or  
waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield  
and even make it difficult to see through the windshield  
under certain conditions.  
Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it  
may severely weaken them. In a crash, they  
might not be able to provide adequate protection.  
Clean safety belts only with mild soap and  
lukewarm water.  
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Cleaning Glass Surfaces  
Cleaning the Outside of the  
Windshield and Wiper Blades  
If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield  
washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running,  
wax, sap or other material may be on the blade  
or windshield.  
Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a  
liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal  
tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See  
“Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.  
Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength  
glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads  
do not form when you rinse it with water.  
NOTICE:  
Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they  
may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the  
inside rear window, since they may have to be  
scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on  
the inside of the rear window, an electric  
defogger element may be damaged. Any  
temporary license should not be attached across  
the defogger grid.  
Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades  
and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping  
vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength  
windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade  
with water.  
Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary;  
replace blades that look worn.  
Weatherstrips  
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last  
longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply  
silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six  
months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent  
application may be required. See “Recommended Fluids  
and Lubricants” in the Index.  
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Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses  
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle  
Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car  
washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow  
instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.”  
The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth  
of color, gloss retention and durability.  
Washing Your Vehicle  
The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to  
keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or  
cold water.  
Finish Care  
Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by  
hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint  
finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products  
from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials”  
in the Index.  
Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun.  
Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or  
chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well,  
removing all soap residue completely. You can get  
GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See  
“Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index. Don’t  
use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that  
contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be  
flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface,  
or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean  
chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface  
scratches and water spotting.  
Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish.  
The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored  
basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are  
non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat  
paint finish.  
NOTICE:  
Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on  
a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may dull the  
finish or leave swirl marks.  
High pressure car washes may cause water to enter  
your vehicle.  
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Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other  
salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird  
droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can  
damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted  
surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If  
necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked  
safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter.  
Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash  
that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes. These  
brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.  
Cleaning Tires  
To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.  
Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather  
and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period  
of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking  
new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered  
whenever possible.  
NOTICE:  
When applying a tire dressing always take care to  
wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted  
surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle.  
Petroleum-based products may damage the paint  
finish and tires.  
Cleaning Aluminum Wheels  
(If Equipped)  
Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with  
mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After  
rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax  
may then be applied.  
Sheet Metal Damage  
If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal  
repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop  
applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired or  
replaced to restore corrosion protection.  
The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted  
surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps,  
chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners  
with acid or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because  
you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish  
on aluminum wheels.  
Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide  
the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.  
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Finish Damage  
Chemical Paint Spotting  
Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish  
should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode  
quickly and may develop into a major repair expense.  
Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a  
chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and  
attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage  
can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped  
discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into  
the paint surface.  
Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up  
materials available from your dealer or other service  
outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected  
in your dealer’s body and paint shop.  
Although no defect in the paint job causes this, Pontiac  
will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of  
new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within  
12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase,  
whichever occurs first.  
Underbody Maintenance  
Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust  
control can collect on the underbody. If these are not  
removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on  
the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor  
pan and exhaust system even though they have  
corrosion protection.  
At least every spring, flush these materials from the  
underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud  
and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas  
of the frame should be loosened before being flushed.  
Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do  
this for you.  
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GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials  
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Engine Identification  
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)  
The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This  
code will help you identify your engine, specifications  
and replacement parts.  
Service Parts Identification Label  
You’ll find this label on your spare tire cover. It’s very  
helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is:  
your VIN,  
This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on  
a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the  
driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the  
windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also  
appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts  
labels and the certificates of title and registration.  
the model designation,  
paint information and  
a list of all production options and  
special equipment.  
Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.  
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Headlamp Wiring  
Electrical System  
The headlamp wiring is protected by fuses. Should your  
headlamps fail to function, have your headlamp fuses  
checked right away.  
Add-On Electrical Equipment  
NOTICE:  
Windshield Wipers Fuse  
The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit  
breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy  
snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools. If  
the overload is caused by some electrical problem, have  
it fixed.  
Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle  
unless you check with your dealer first. Some  
electrical equipment can damage your vehicle  
and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your  
warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment  
can keep other components from working as  
they should.  
Power Windows and Other Power Options  
Circuit breakers in the fuse panel protect the power  
windows and other power accessories. When the current  
load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes,  
protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed.  
Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to  
add anything electrical to your vehicle, see “Servicing  
Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.  
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Instrument Panel Fuse Block  
Fuses and Circuit Breakers  
The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from  
short circuits by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers  
and fusible thermal links. This greatly reduces the  
chance of damage caused by electrical problems.  
Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the  
band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you  
replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size  
and rating.  
If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a  
spare fuse, you can “borrow” one that has the same  
amperage. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that  
you can get along without -- like the radio or cigarette  
lighter -- and use its fuse if it is the correct amperage.  
Replace it as soon as you can.  
The instrument panel fuse block is located on the  
driver’s side end of the instrument panel. To open, push  
the tab on the access door to the left and pull the door  
forward. There is a white fuse removal tool located in  
the fuse block area. Make sure to insert the tabs first  
when reinstalling the cover.  
There are two fuse blocks in your vehicle: the  
instrument panel fuse block and the engine compartment  
fuse block.  
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Fuse  
Usage  
IGN MDL  
F/P-INJ  
AIR BG  
CRUISE  
ABS  
Ignition Module  
Fuel Pump, Fuel Injectors  
Air Bag  
Cruise Control Module/Switch  
Anti-Lock Brake (Ignition)  
Accessory Power Outlet  
Remote Keyless Entry System  
APO  
RFA BATT  
MIR/DLC  
Power Mirror/Diagnostic  
Link Connector  
LT HDLP  
RDO/INTLP  
RT HDLP  
CLSTR  
Left Headlamp  
Fuse  
Usage  
Radio, Interior Lamps  
Right Headlamp  
TURN-B/U  
ERLS  
Turn Signals, Back-Up Lamps  
Cruise Control, Engine Controls  
Instrument Panel Cluster  
Exterior Lamps  
BCM/CLU  
Body Control Module, Instrument  
Panel Cluster  
EXT LP  
CIG  
Cigarette Lighter  
PCM  
Powertrain Control Module  
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Fuse  
Usage  
Fuse  
Usage  
FOG  
Fog Lamps  
Blank  
Blank  
Not Used  
Not Used  
HORN  
Blank  
Horn  
Not Used  
O HTR  
2
O Sensor Heater  
2
Blank  
Not Used  
HVAC  
Climate Control System  
Windshield Wiper  
STOP/HZD  
Blank  
Stop Lamps, Hazard Lamps  
Not Used  
WIPER  
BCM  
Body Control Module  
Audio Amplifier  
Blank  
Not Used  
AMPL  
RR DEFOG  
PWR ACC  
Blank  
Rear Window Defogger  
Power Door Locks  
Not Used  
PWR WDO  
Power Windows, Sunroof  
(Circuit Breaker)  
RELAY DRL  
Blank  
Daytime Running Lamps (Relay)  
Not Used  
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Engine Compartment Fuse Block  
Fuse  
Usage  
The engine compartment fuse block is located on the  
driver’s side of the vehicle. Lift the cover to check the  
fuses. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the  
Index for more information on location.  
IGN  
Ignition Switch Circuits  
BATT 1  
Exterior Lamps, Power Outlet,  
Horn, Audio Amplifier  
BATT 2  
Rear Defogger, Starter, Power  
Locks, Stoplamps  
ABS  
Anti-Lock Brake System  
COOLING FAN Engine Cooling Fan  
PCM/HVAC  
Powertrain Control Module,  
Heater and A/C Blower  
CRNK  
BLO  
Starter  
Heater and A/C Blower  
Powertrain Control Module  
A/C Compressor  
A/C Compressor  
Fuel pump  
PCM  
A/C  
A/C  
FUEL PUMP  
CRANK  
Starter  
COOLING FAN Engine Cooling Fan  
HEATER  
Heater and A/C Blower  
BLOWER  
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Replacement Bulbs  
Capacities and Specifications  
For any bulb not listed here contact your dealer.  
The following approximate capacities are given in  
English and metric conversions. Please refer to  
“Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index  
for more information.  
Lamps  
Bulb Number  
Back-Up Lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 912  
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL)  
Four-Door Model (Without Spoiler) . . . . . . . . 1141  
Two-Door Model (With Spoiler) . . . . . . . . . . . 912  
Halogen Headlamps, High/Low-Beam . . . . . . . 9007  
Tail/Rear Turn Signal Lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3057  
Engine Oil with Filter  
2.2L L4 (LN2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 quarts (3.8 L)  
2.2L L4 (L61) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8 quarts (5.5 L)  
2.4L L4 (LD9) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 quarts (3.8 L)  
Automatic Transaxle  
After Complete Overhaul . . . . . . 9.5 quarts (9.0 L)  
Manual Transaxle  
Complete Drain and Refill . . . . . 1.8 quarts (1.7 L)  
Cooling System  
2.2L L4 (LN2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.2 quarts (9.6 L)  
2.2L L4 (L61) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.6 quarts (8.2 L)  
2.4L L4 (LD9) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.2 quarts (9.6 L)  
Fuel Tank . . . . . . . . . . . . 14.1 U.S. gallons (53.4 L)  
Wheel Nut Torque . . . . . . . . . . 100 lb-ft (140 N·m)  
All capacities are approximate. When adding, be sure  
to fill to the appropriate level, as recommended in  
this manual.  
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Engine Specifications  
Normal Maintenance  
Replacement Parts  
2.2L L4 (LN2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . VIN Engine Code 4  
2.2L L4 (L61) . . . . . . . . . . . . . VIN Engine Code F  
2.4L L4 (LD9) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . VIN Engine Code T  
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter  
2.2L L4 (LN2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A-1172C*  
2.2L L4 (L61) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A-1172C*  
2.4L L4 (LD9) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A-1172C*  
Engine Oil Filter  
Air Conditioning  
Refrigerant Capacity  
2.2L L4 (LN2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PF-47*  
2.2L L4 (L61) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PF2244G*  
2.4L L4 (LD9) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PF-44*  
Spark Plugs  
2.2L L4 (LN2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41-928*  
Gap: 0.040 inch (1.02 mm)  
If you do your own service work, you’ll need the proper  
service manual. See “Doing Your Own Service Work” in  
the Index for additional information. It is recommended  
that service work on your air conditioning system be  
performed by a qualified technician.  
Air Conditioning  
Refrigerant R-134a . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 lbs. (.68 kg)  
2.2L L4 (L61) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41-981*  
Gap: 0.042 inch (1.06 mm)  
Use Refrigerant Oil, R134a Systems  
2.4L L4 (LD9) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41-963*  
Gap: 0.050 inch (1.27 mm)  
Windshield Wiper Blade  
(Shepherd’s Hook Type)  
Driver’s Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 inches (56 cm)  
Passenger’s Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 inches (43 cm)  
* ACDelco part number.  
ECOTEC  
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Section 7 Maintenance Schedule  
This section covers the maintenance required for your vehicle. Your vehicle needs these services to retain its safety,  
dependability and emission control performance.  
7-2  
7-4  
7-7  
7-21  
Introduction  
7-30  
7-35  
7-37  
7-39  
Part B: Owner Checks and Services  
Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections  
Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants  
Part E: Maintenance Record  
Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services  
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance  
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance  
7-  
7-1  
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Introduction  
Your Vehicle and the Environment  
Proper vehicle maintenance not only helps to keep your  
vehicle in good working condition, but also helps the  
environment. All recommended maintenance procedures  
are important. Improper vehicle maintenance can even  
affect the quality of the air we breathe. Improper fluid  
levels or the wrong tire inflation can increase the level  
of emissions from your vehicle. To help protect our  
environment, and to keep your vehicle in good  
condition, please maintain your vehicle properly.  
Maintenance Requirements  
Maintenance intervals, checks, inspections and  
recommended fluids and lubricants as prescribed in this  
manual are necessary to keep your vehicle in good  
working condition. Any damage caused by failure to  
follow recommended maintenance may not be covered  
by warranty.  
Have you purchased the GM Protection Plan? The Plan  
supplements your new vehicle warranties. See your  
Warranty and Owner Assistance booklet or your dealer  
for details.  
7-2  
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“Part B: Owner Checks and Services” tells you  
what should be checked and when. It also explains  
what you can easily do to help keep your vehicle in  
good condition.  
How This Section is Organized  
This maintenance schedule is divided into five parts:  
“Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services” explains  
what to have done and how often. Some of these  
services can be complex, so unless you are technically  
qualified and have the necessary equipment, you should  
let your dealer’s service department or another qualified  
service center do these jobs.  
“Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections” explains  
important inspections that your dealer’s service  
department or another qualified service center  
should perform.  
“Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” lists  
some recommended products necessary to help keep  
your vehicle properly maintained. These products, or  
their equivalents, should be used whether you do the  
work yourself or have it done.  
CAUTION:  
Performing maintenance work on a vehicle can  
be dangerous. In trying to do some jobs, you can  
be seriously injured. Do your own maintenance  
work only if you have the required know-how  
and the proper tools and equipment for the job.  
If you have any doubt, have a qualified  
technician do the work.  
“Part E: Maintenance Record” is a place for  
you to record and keep track of the maintenance  
performed on your vehicle. Keep your maintenance  
receipts. They may be needed to qualify your vehicle  
for warranty repairs.  
If you want to get the service information, see “Service  
and Owner Publications” in the Index.  
7-3  
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The proper fluids and lubricants to use are listed in  
Part D. Make sure whoever services your vehicle  
uses these. All parts should be replaced and all  
necessary repairs done before you or anyone else  
drives the vehicle.  
Part A: Scheduled  
Maintenance Services  
Using Your Maintenance Schedule  
We at General Motors want to help you keep your  
vehicle in good working condition. But we don’t know  
exactly how you’ll drive it. You may drive very short  
distances only a few times a week. Or you may drive  
long distances all the time in very hot, dusty weather.  
You may use your vehicle in making deliveries.  
Or you may drive it to work, to do errands or in  
many other ways.  
These schedules are for vehicles that:  
carry passengers and cargo within recommended  
limits. You will find these limits on your vehicle’s  
Tire-Loading Information label. See “Loading Your  
Vehicle” in the Index.  
are driven on reasonable road surfaces within legal  
driving limits.  
Because of all the different ways people use their  
vehicles, maintenance needs vary. You may need more  
frequent checks and replacements. So please read the  
following and note how you drive. If you have any  
questions on how to keep your vehicle in good  
condition, see your dealer.  
use the recommended fuel. See “Fuel” in the Index.  
Selecting the Right Schedule  
First you’ll need to decide which of the two schedules is  
right for your vehicle. Here’s how to decide which  
schedule to follow:  
This part tells you the maintenance services you should  
have done and when you should schedule them. If you  
go to your dealer for your service needs, you’ll know  
that GM-trained and supported service people will  
perform the work using genuine GM parts.  
7-4  
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Scheduled Maintenance  
Short Trip/City Definition  
Short Trip/City Intervals  
Follow the Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance if  
any one of these conditions is true for your vehicle:  
Every 3,000 Miles (5 000 km): Engine Oil and Filter  
Change (or 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is  
particularly important when outside temperatures are  
below freezing.  
Every 6,000 Miles (10 000 km): Chassis Lubrication  
(or 6 months, whichever occurs first). Tire Rotation.  
Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km): Engine Air Cleaner  
Filter Inspection, if driving in dusty conditions.  
Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent  
driving in stop-and-go traffic).  
Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km): Engine Air Cleaner  
Filter Replacement.  
You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of  
your vehicle. With some models, you should never  
tow a trailer. See “Towing a Trailer” in the Index.  
Every 50,000 Miles (83 000 km): Automatic Transaxle  
Service (severe conditions only).  
If the vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi  
or other commercial application.  
Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km): Engine Accessory  
Drive Belt Inspection.  
One of the reasons you should follow this schedule  
if you operate your vehicle under any of these conditions  
is that these conditions cause engine oil to break  
down sooner.  
Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km): Spark Plug Wire  
Inspection. Spark Plug Replacement.  
Every 150,000 Miles (240 000 km): Cooling System  
Service (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first).  
These intervals only summarize maintenance services.  
Be sure to follow the complete scheduled maintenance  
on the following pages.  
7-5  
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Scheduled Maintenance  
Long Trip/Highway Definition  
Long Trip/Highway Intervals  
Follow this scheduled maintenance only if none of the  
conditions from the Short Trip/City Scheduled  
Maintenance are true. Do not use this schedule if the  
vehicle is used for trailer towing, driven in a dusty area  
or used off paved roads. Use the Short Trip/City  
schedule for these conditions.  
Every 7,500 Miles (12 500 km): Engine Oil and Filter  
Change (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
Chassis Lubrication (or every 12 months, whichever  
occurs first). Tire Rotation.  
Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km): Engine Air Cleaner  
Filter Replacement.  
Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under  
highway conditions will cause engine oil to break  
down slower.  
Every 50,000 Miles (83 000 km): Automatic Transaxle  
Service (severe conditions only).  
Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km): Engine Accessory  
Drive Belt Inspection.  
Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km): Spark Plug Wire  
Inspection. Spark Plug Replacement.  
Every 150,000 Miles (240 000 km): Cooling System  
Service (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first).  
These intervals only summarize maintenance services.  
Be sure to follow the complete scheduled maintenance  
on the following pages.  
7-6  
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Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance  
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles  
(166 000 km) should be repeated after 100,000 miles  
(166 000 km) at the same intervals for the life  
of this vehicle. The services shown at 150,000 miles  
(240 000 km) should be repeated at the same  
interval after 150,000 miles (240 000 km) for the  
life of this vehicle.  
# Lubricate the suspension, steering linkage and the  
transaxle shift linkage.  
+ A good time to check your brakes is during tire  
rotation. See “Brake System Inspection” under  
“Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in Part C of  
this schedule.  
++ If you drive in a highly corrosive environment,  
your brake calipers may require additional inspection  
and service, at every other tire rotation. See  
“Caliper/Knuckle Maintenance Inspection” under  
“Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in Part C of  
this schedule.  
See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Periodic  
Maintenance Inspections” following.  
Footnotes  
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the  
California Air Resources Board has determined that the  
failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify  
the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to  
the completion of the vehicles useful life. We, however,  
urge that all recommended maintenance services be  
performed at the indicated intervals and the  
maintenance be recorded.  
7-7  
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Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance  
3,000 Miles (5 000 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
SERVICED BY:  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
6,000 Miles (10 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 6 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper  
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)  
9,000 Miles (15 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
7-8  
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Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance  
12,000 Miles (20 000 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 6 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index  
for proper rotation pattern and additional information.  
(See footnote +.) (Also see footnote ++.)  
15,000 Miles (25 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Inspect engine air cleaner filter if you are driving in dusty conditions.  
Replace filter if necessary.  
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote .)  
18,000 Miles (30 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 6 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper  
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)  
7-9  
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Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance  
21,000 Miles (35 000 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
SERVICED BY:  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
24,000 Miles (40 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 6 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index  
for proper rotation pattern and additional information.  
(See footnote +.) (Also see footnote ++.)  
27,000 Miles (45 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
7-10  
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Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance  
30,000 Miles (50 000 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 6 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Replace engine air cleaner filter.  
An Emission Control Service.  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper  
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)  
33,000 Miles (55 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
36,000 Miles (60 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 6 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index  
for proper rotation pattern and additional information.  
(See footnote +.) (Also see footnote ++.)  
7-11  
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Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance  
39,000 Miles (65 000 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
SERVICED BY:  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
42,000 Miles (70 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 6 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper  
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)  
45,000 Miles (75 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Inspect engine air cleaner filter if you are driving in dusty conditions.  
Replace filter if necessary.  
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote .)  
7-12  
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Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance  
48,000 Miles (80 000 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 6 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index  
for proper rotation pattern and additional information.  
(See footnote +.) (Also see footnote ++.)  
50,000 Miles (83 000 km)  
DATE  
Change automatic transaxle fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven  
under one or more of these conditions:  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly  
reaches 90 F (32 C) or higher.  
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.  
– When doing frequent trailer towing.  
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.  
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and  
filter do not require changing.  
Manual transaxle fluid doesn’t require change.  
7-13  
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Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance  
51,000 Miles (85 000 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
SERVICED BY:  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
54,000 Miles (90 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 6 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper  
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)  
57,000 Miles (95 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
7-14  
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Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance  
60,000 Miles (100 000 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 6 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Inspect engine accessory drive belt.  
An Emission Control Service.  
Replace engine air cleaner filter.  
An Emission Control Service.  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index  
for proper rotation pattern and additional information.  
(See footnote +.) (Also see footnote ++.)  
63,000 Miles (105 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
7-15  
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Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance  
66,000 Miles (110 000 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 6 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper  
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)  
69,000 Miles (115 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
72,000 Miles (120 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 6 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index  
for proper rotation pattern and additional information.  
(See footnote +.) (Also see footnote ++.)  
7-16  
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Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance  
75,000 Miles (125 000 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Inspect engine air cleaner filter if you are driving in dusty conditions.  
Replace filter if necessary.  
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote .)  
78,000 Miles (130 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 6 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper  
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)  
81,000 Miles (135 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
7-17  
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Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance  
84,000 Miles (140 000 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 6 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index  
for proper rotation pattern and additional information.  
(See footnote +.) (Also see footnote ++.)  
87,000 Miles (145 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
90,000 Miles (150 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 6 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Replace engine air cleaner filter.  
An Emission Control Service.  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper  
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)  
7-18  
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Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance  
93,000 Miles (155 000 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
SERVICED BY:  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
96,000 Miles (160 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 6 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index  
for proper rotation pattern and additional information.  
(See footnote +.) (Also see footnote ++.)  
99,000 Miles (165 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
7-19  
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Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance  
100,000 Miles (166 000 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Inspect spark plug wires (2.2L Code 4 L4 engine only).  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Replace spark plugs.  
An Emission Control Service.  
Change automatic transaxle fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven  
under one or more of these conditions:  
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly  
reaches 90 F (32 C) or higher.  
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.  
– When doing frequent trailer towing.  
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.  
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and  
filter do not require changing.  
Manual transaxle fluid doesn’t require change.  
150,000 Miles (240 000 km)  
DATE  
Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every 60 months since last service,  
whichever occurs first). See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for what  
to use. Inspect hoses. Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck.  
Pressure test cooling system and pressure cap.  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
7-20  
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Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance  
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles  
(166 000 km) should be repeated after 100,000 miles  
(166 000 km) at the same intervals for the life  
of this vehicle. The services shown at 150,000 miles  
(240 000 km) should be repeated at the same interval  
after 150,000 miles (240 000 km) for the life of  
this vehicle.  
# Lubricate the suspension, steering linkage and the  
transaxle shift linkage.  
+ A good time to check your brakes is during tire  
rotation. See “Brake System Inspection” under  
“Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in Part C  
of this schedule.  
++ If you drive in a highly corrosive environment, your  
brake calipers may require additional inspection and  
service, at every other tire rotation. See  
See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Periodic  
Maintenance Inspections” following.  
“Caliper/Knuckle Maintenance Inspection” under  
“Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in Part C  
of this schedule.  
Footnotes  
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the  
California Air Resources Board has determined that the  
failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify  
the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to  
the completion of the vehicles useful life. We, however,  
urge that all recommended maintenance services be  
performed at the indicated intervals and the  
maintenance be recorded.  
7-21  
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Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance  
7,500 Miles (12 500 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper  
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)  
15,000 Miles (25 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index  
for proper rotation pattern and additional information.  
(See footnote +.) (Also see footnote ++.)  
7-22  
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Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance  
22,500 Miles (37 500 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper  
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)  
30,000 Miles (50 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index  
for proper rotation pattern and additional information.  
(See footnote +.) (Also see footnote ++.)  
Replace engine air cleaner filter.  
An Emission Control Service.  
7-23  
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Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance  
37,500 Miles (62 500 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper  
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)  
45,000 Miles (75 000 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index  
for proper rotation pattern and additional information.  
(See footnote +.) (Also see footnote ++.)  
7-24  
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Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance  
50,000 Miles (83 000 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change automatic transaxle fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven  
under one or more of these conditions:  
SERVICED BY:  
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly  
reaches 90 F (32 C) or higher.  
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.  
– When doing frequent trailer towing.  
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.  
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and  
filter do not require changing.  
Manual transaxle fluid doesn’t require change.  
52,500 Miles (87 500 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper  
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)  
7-25  
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Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance  
60,000 Miles (100 000 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index  
for proper rotation pattern and additional information.  
(See footnote +.) (Also see footnote ++.)  
Inspect engine accessory drive belt.  
An Emission Control Service.  
Replace engine air cleaner filter.  
An Emission Control Service.  
67,500 Miles (112 500 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper  
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)  
7-26  
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Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance  
75,000 Miles (125 000 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index  
for proper rotation pattern and additional information.  
(See footnote +.) (Also see footnote ++.)  
82,500 Miles (137 500 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper  
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)  
7-27  
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Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance  
90,000 Miles (150 000 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Replace engine air cleaner filter.  
An Emission Control Service.  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index  
for proper rotation pattern and additional information.  
(See footnote +.) (Also see footnote ++.)  
97,500 Miles (162 500 km)  
DATE  
Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).  
(See footnote #.)  
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper  
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)  
7-28  
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Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance  
100,000 Miles (166 000 km)  
DATE  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
Inspect spark plug wires (2.2L Code 4 L4 engine only).  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
Replace spark plugs.  
An Emission Control Service.  
Change automatic transaxle fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven  
under one or more of these conditions:  
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly  
reaches 90 F (32 C) or higher.  
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.  
– When doing frequent trailer towing.  
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.  
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and  
filter do not require changing.  
Manual transaxle fluid doesn’t require change.  
150,000 Miles (240 000 km)  
DATE  
Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every 60 months since last  
service, whichever occurs first). See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for  
what to use. Inspect hoses. Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck.  
Pressure test the cooling system and pressure cap.  
ACTUAL  
MILEAGE  
SERVICED BY:  
An Emission Control Service.  
7-29  
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Engine Coolant Level Check  
Part B: Owner Checks and Services  
Check the engine coolant level and add DEX-COOL  
coolant mixture if necessary. See “Engine Coolant” in  
the Index for further details.  
Listed in this part are owner checks and services which  
should be performed at the intervals specified to help  
ensure the safety, dependability and emission control  
performance of your vehicle.  
Windshield Washer Fluid Level Check  
Be sure any necessary repairs are completed at once.  
Whenever any fluids or lubricants are added to your  
vehicle, make sure they are the proper ones, as shown  
in Part D.  
Check the windshield washer fluid level in the  
windshield washer tank and add the proper fluid if  
necessary. See “Windshield Washer Fluid” in the Index  
for further details.  
At Each Fuel Fill  
It is important for you or a service station attendant  
to perform these underhood checks at each fuel fill.  
At Least Once a Month  
Tire Inflation Check  
Make sure tires are inflated to the correct pressures.  
Don’t forget to check your spare tire. See “Tires” in  
the Index for further details.  
Engine Oil Level Check  
Check the engine oil level and add the proper oil  
if necessary. See “Engine Oil” in the Index for  
further details.  
Cassette Deck Service  
Clean cassette deck. Cleaning should be done every  
50 hours of tape play. See “Audio Systems” in the  
Index for further details.  
7-30  
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Weatherstrip Lubrication  
At Least Twice a Year  
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last  
longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply  
silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold,  
damp weather more frequent application may be  
required. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants”  
in the Index.  
Restraint System Check  
Make sure the safety belt reminder light and all your  
belts, buckles, latch plates, retractors and anchorages are  
working properly. Look for any other loose or damaged  
safety belt system parts. If you see anything that might  
keep a safety belt system from doing its job, have it  
repaired. Have any torn or frayed safety belts replaced.  
Manual Transaxle Check  
It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level.  
Check for leaks. A fluid leak is the only reason for fluid  
loss. Have the system inspected and repaired if needed.  
Also look for any opened or broken air bag coverings,  
and have them repaired or replaced. (The air bag system  
does not need regular maintenance.)  
Automatic Transaxle Inspection  
Wiper Blade Check  
It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level.  
A transaxle fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss.  
Check for leaks. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to  
your dealer and have it repaired as soon as possible.  
Inspect wiper blades for wear or cracking. Replace blade  
inserts that appear worn or damaged or that streak or  
miss areas of the windshield. Also see “Wiper Blades,  
Cleaning” in the Index.  
Hydraulic Clutch System Check  
Check the fluid level in the clutch reservoir. See  
“Hydraulic Clutch Fluid” in the Index. A fluid loss in  
this system could indicate a problem. Have the system  
inspected and repaired at once.  
7-31  
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Starter Switch Check  
At Least Once a Year  
Key Lock Cylinders Service  
CAUTION:  
Lubricate the key lock cylinders with the lubricant  
specified in Part D.  
When you are doing this check, the vehicle could  
move suddenly. If it does, you or others could be  
injured. Follow the steps below.  
Body Lubrication Service  
Lubricate all hood latch assemblies, secondary latch,  
pivots, spring anchor, release pawl, hood and body  
door hinges, rear compartment and any folding seat  
hardware. Part D tells you what to use. More frequent  
lubrication may be required when exposed to a  
corrosive environment.  
1. Before you start, be sure you have enough room  
around the vehicle.  
2. Firmly apply both the parking brake and the regular  
brake. See “Parking Brake” in the Index if necessary.  
Do not use the accelerator pedal, and be ready to turn  
off the engine immediately if it starts.  
3. On automatic transaxle vehicles, try to start the  
engine in each gear. The starter should work only in  
PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N). If the starter works in  
any other position, your vehicle needs service.  
On manual transaxle vehicles, put the shift lever in  
NEUTRAL (N), push the clutch down halfway and  
try to start the engine. The starter should work only  
when the clutch is pushed down all the way to the  
floor. If the starter works when the clutch isn’t  
pushed all the way down, your vehicle needs service.  
7-32  
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Automatic Transaxle Shift Lock Control  
System Check  
Ignition Transaxle Lock Check  
While parked, and with the parking brake set, try to turn  
the ignition key to LOCK in each shift lever position.  
With an automatic transaxle, the key should turn to  
LOCK only when the shift lever is in PARK (P).  
CAUTION:  
With a manual transaxle, the key should turn to  
LOCK only when you press the key release button.  
When you are doing this check, the vehicle could  
move suddenly. If it does, you or others could be  
injured. Follow the steps below.  
On all vehicles, the key should come out only in LOCK.  
Turn the steering wheel to the left and to the right. It  
should only lock when turned to the right.  
1. Before you start, be sure you have enough  
room around the vehicle. It should be parked  
on a level surface.  
2. Firmly apply the parking brake. See “Parking Brake”  
in the Index if necessary.  
Be ready to apply the regular brake immediately if  
the vehicle begins to move.  
3. With the engine off, turn the key to the RUN  
position, but don’t start the engine. Without applying  
the regular brake, try to move the shift lever out of  
PARK (P) with normal effort. If the shift lever  
moves out of PARK (P), your vehicle needs service.  
7-33  
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Parking Brake and Automatic Transaxle PARK (P)  
Mechanism Check  
Park on a fairly steep hill, with the vehicle facing  
downhill. Keeping your foot on the regular brake, set the  
parking brake.  
To check the parking brake’s holding ability: With  
the engine running and transaxle in NEUTRAL (N),  
slowly remove foot pressure from the regular brake  
pedal. Do this until the vehicle is held by the parking  
brake only.  
CAUTION:  
When you are doing this check, your vehicle  
could begin to move. You or others could be  
injured and property could be damaged. Make  
sure there is room in front of your vehicle in case  
it begins to roll. Be ready to apply the regular  
brake at once should the vehicle begin to move.  
To check the PARK (P) mechanism’s holding  
ability: With the engine running, shift to PARK (P).  
Then release the parking brake followed by the  
regular brake.  
Underbody Flushing Service  
At least every spring, use plain water to flush any  
corrosive materials from the underbody. Take care to  
clean thoroughly any areas where mud and other debris  
can collect.  
7-34  
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Exhaust System Inspection  
Part C: Periodic  
Inspect the complete exhaust system. Inspect the body  
near the exhaust system. Look for broken, damaged,  
missing or out-of-position parts as well as open seams,  
holes, loose connections or other conditions which could  
cause a heat build-up in the floor pan or could let  
exhaust fumes into the vehicle. See “Engine Exhaust” in  
the Index.  
Maintenance Inspections  
Listed in this part are inspections and services which  
should be performed at least twice a year (for instance,  
each spring and fall). You should let your dealers  
service department or other qualified service center  
do these jobs. Make sure any necessary repairs are  
completed at once.  
Fuel System Inspection  
Inspect the complete fuel system for damage or leaks.  
Proper procedures to perform these services may be  
found in a service manual. See “Service and Owner  
Publications” in the Index.  
Engine Cooling System Inspection  
Steering, Suspension and Front Drive Axle  
Boot and Seal Inspection  
Inspect the hoses and have them replaced if they are  
cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Inspect all pipes,  
fittings and clamps; replace as needed. Clean the outside  
of the radiator and air conditioning condenser. To help  
ensure proper operation, a pressure test of the cooling  
system and pressure cap is recommended at least once  
a year.  
Inspect the front and rear suspension and steering  
system for damaged, loose or missing parts, signs of  
wear or lack of lubrication. Inspect the power steering  
lines and hoses for proper hook-up, binding, leaks,  
cracks, chafing, etc. Clean and then inspect the drive  
axle boot seals for damage, tears or leakage. Replace  
seals if necessary.  
7-35  
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Throttle System Inspection  
Caliper/Knuckle Maintenance Inspection  
Inspect the throttle system for interference or binding,  
and for damaged or missing parts. Replace parts as  
needed. Replace any components that have high effort  
or excessive wear. Do not lubricate accelerator and  
cruise control cables.  
If you operate your vehicle in a highly corrosive  
environment, as indicated by the shaded areas on the  
map following this text, your vehicle may require  
additional brake service. Refer to the appropriate  
GM service bulletin for the proper caliper inspection  
procedure. As necessary, caliper pins and knuckle brake  
pad abutments should be lubricated at every other tire  
rotation. Also, see your GM dealer’s service department  
or qualified service center for additional information.  
Brake System Inspection  
Inspect the complete system. Inspect brake lines and  
hoses for proper hook-up, binding, leaks, cracks,  
chafing, etc. Inspect disc brake pads for wear and rotors  
for surface condition. Also inspect drum brake linings  
for wear and cracks. Inspect other brake parts, including  
drums, wheel cylinders, calipers, parking brake, etc.  
Check parking brake adjustment. You may need to have  
your brakes inspected more often if your driving habits  
or conditions result in frequent braking.  
7-36  
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Part D: Recommended Fluids  
and Lubricants  
Fluids and lubricants identified below by name,  
part number or specification may be obtained from  
your dealer.  
USAGE  
FLUID/LUBRICANT  
Hydraulic  
Brake System  
Delco Supreme 11 Brake Fluid  
(GM Part No. 12377967 or  
equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid).  
Windshield  
Washer Solvent  
GM Optikleen Washer  
Solvent (GM Part No. 1051515)  
or equivalent.  
USAGE  
FLUID/LUBRICANT  
Engine Oil  
Engine oil with the American  
Petroleum Institute Certified for  
Gasoline Engines starburst symbol  
of the proper viscosity. To  
Hydraulic  
Clutch System  
Hydraulic Clutch Fluid  
(GM Part No. 12345347 or  
equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid).  
determine the preferred viscosity  
for your vehicle’s engine, see  
“Engine Oil” in the Index.  
Power  
GM Power Steering Fluid  
Steering System (GM Part No. 1052884 - 1 pint,  
1050017 - 1 quart, or equivalent).  
Engine Coolant  
50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable  
water and use only GM  
Goodwrench DEX-COOL or  
Havoline DEX-COOL  
Coolant. See “Engine Coolant” in  
the Index.  
Manual  
Transaxle  
DEXRON -III Automatic  
Transmission Fluid.  
7-37  
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USAGE  
FLUID/LUBRICANT  
USAGE  
FLUID/LUBRICANT  
Automatic  
Transaxle  
DEXRON -III Automatic  
Transmission Fluid.  
Chassis  
Lubrication  
Chassis Lubricant (GM Part  
No. 12377985 or equivalent)  
or lubricant meeting requirements  
of NLGI # 2, Category LB  
or GC-LB.  
Key  
Lock Cylinders  
Multi-Purpose Lubricant,  
Superlube (GM Part  
No. 12346241 or equivalent).  
Hood Latch  
Assembly,  
Lubriplate Lubricant Aerosol  
(GM Part No. 12346293 or  
Manual  
Transaxle  
Shift Linkage  
Chassis Lubricant (GM Part  
No. 12377985 or equivalent)  
or lubricant meeting requirements  
of NLGI # 2, Category LB  
or GC-LB.  
Secondary Latch, equivalent) or lubricant meeting  
Pivots, Spring  
Anchor and  
requirements of NLGI # 2,  
Category LB or GC-LB.  
Release Pawl  
Clutch Linkage  
Pivot Points  
Engine oil.  
Hood and  
Door Hinges  
Multi-Purpose Lubricant,  
Superlube (GM Part  
No. 12346241 or equivalent).  
Weatherstrip  
Conditioning  
Dielectric Silicone Grease (GM  
Part No. 12345579 or equivalent).  
7-38  
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Part E: Maintenance Record  
After the scheduled services are performed, record the date, odometer reading and who performed the service in the  
boxes provided after the maintenance interval. Any additional information from “Owner Checks and Services” or  
“Periodic Maintenance” can be added on the following record pages. Also, you should retain all maintenance receipts.  
Your owner information portfolio is a convenient place to store them.  
Maintenance Record  
ODOMETER  
READING  
DATE  
SERVICED BY  
MAINTENANCE PERFORMED  
7-39  
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Maintenance Record  
ODOMETER  
READING  
DATE  
SERVICED BY  
MAINTENANCE PERFORMED  
7-40  
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Section 8 Customer Assistance Information  
Here you will find out how to contact Pontiac if you need assistance. This section also tells you how to obtain service  
publications and how to report any safety defects.  
8-2  
8-2  
8-3  
8-5  
Pontiac Cares  
8-8  
Canadian Roadside Assistance  
Courtesy Transportation  
Warranty Information  
Reporting Safety Defects to the United  
States Government  
What Makes Up Pontiac Cares?  
Customer Satisfaction Procedure  
Customer Assistance for Text Telephone  
(TTY) Users  
8-8  
8-10  
8-10  
8-5  
8-6  
Customer Assistance Offices  
GM Mobility Program for Persons  
with Disabilities  
8-11  
8-11  
Reporting Safety Defects to the  
Canadian Government  
Reporting Safety Defects to General Motors  
8-6  
Pontiac Roadside Assistance Program  
8-  
8-1  
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The PONTIAC CARES philosophy and elements are  
designed to make you realize that Pontiac recognizes  
you as a valuable customer, appreciates your purchase  
decision, and is dedicated to taking care of the most  
important person ... YOU! PONTIAC CARES is:  
A valuable feature that comes with every Pontiac,  
a feature that offers a multitude of benefits that can  
give you safety, security, comfort and convenience.  
Pontiac Cares  
What Makes Up Pontiac Cares?  
A 3 year/36,000 mile (60 000 km)  
Bumper-to-Bumper Warranty  
Customer Assistance  
Roadside Assistance  
Courtesy Transportation  
All of these elements combine to make your driving  
experience an enjoyable one and are discussed in greater  
detail in your owner’s manual. Pontiac is focusing on  
the changing needs of our customers and is committed  
to giving you an exceptional level of customer care  
throughout your ownership experience. Our goal is  
to create total customer enthusiasm in our product and  
our services and make you the most satisfied customer  
in the world.  
With PONTIAC CARES, you are never more than  
a phone call away from having your concern taken  
care of.  
8-2  
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Your satisfaction and goodwill are important to your  
dealer and to Pontiac. Normally, any concerns with the  
sales transaction or the operation of your vehicle will be  
resolved by your dealer’s sales or service departments.  
Sometimes, however, despite the best intentions of  
all concerned, misunderstandings can occur. If your  
concern has not been resolved to your satisfaction,  
the following steps should be taken:  
Customer Satisfaction Procedure  
STEP ONE -- Discuss your concern with a member  
of dealership management. Normally, concerns can  
be quickly resolved at that level. If the matter has  
already been reviewed with the sales, service or parts  
manager, contact the owner of the dealership or the  
general manager.  
STEP TWO -- If after contacting a member of  
dealership management, it appears your concern cannot  
be resolved by the dealership without further help, contact  
the Pontiac Customer Assistance Center by calling  
1-800-762-2737. In Canada, contact GM of Canada  
Customer Communication Centre in Oshawa by calling  
1-800-263-3777 (English) or 1-800-263-7854 (French).  
8-3  
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We encourage you to call the toll-free number in order  
to give your inquiry prompt attention. Please have the  
following information available to give the Customer  
Assistance Representative:  
The BBB Auto Line Program is an out of court program  
administered by the Council of Better Business Bureaus  
to settle automotive disputes regarding vehicle repairs or  
the interpretation of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.  
Although you may be required to resort to this informal  
dispute resolution program prior to filing a court action,  
use of the program is free of charge and your case  
will generally be heard within 40 days. If you do not  
agree with the decision given in your case, you may  
reject it and proceed with any other venue for relief  
available to you.  
Vehicle Identification Number (This is available  
from the vehicle registration or title, or the plate  
at the top left of the instrument panel and visible  
through the windshield.)  
Dealership name and location  
Vehicle delivery date and present mileage  
You may contact the BBB using the toll-free telephone  
number or write them at the following address:  
When contacting Pontiac, please remember that  
your concern will likely be resolved at a dealer’s facility.  
That is why we suggest you follow Step One first if  
you have a concern.  
BBB Auto Line  
Council of Better Business Bureaus, Inc.  
4200 Wilson Boulevard  
Suite 800  
Arlington, VA 22203-1804  
STEP THREE -- Both General Motors and your  
dealer are committed to making sure you are  
completely satisfied with your new vehicle. However,  
if you continue to remain unsatisfied after following the  
procedure outlined in Steps One and Two, you should  
file with the GM/BBB Auto Line Program to enforce  
any additional rights you may have. Canadian owners  
refer to your Warranty and Owner Assistance  
Telephone: 1-800-955-5100  
This program is available in all 50 states and the  
District of Columbia. Eligibility is limited by vehicle age,  
mileage and other factors. General Motors reserves the  
right to change eligibility limitations and/or discontinue  
its participation in this program.  
Information booklet for information on the Canadian  
Motor Vehicle Arbitration Plan (CAMVAP).  
8-4  
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Canada  
Customer Assistance for Text  
Telephone (TTY) Users  
General Motors of Canada Limited  
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005  
1908 Colonel Sam Drive  
To assist customers who are deaf, hard of hearing, or  
speech-impaired and who use Text Telephones (TTYs),  
Pontiac has TTY equipment available at its Customer  
Assistance Center. Any TTY user can communicate with  
Pontiac by dialing: 1-800-833-PONT (7668).  
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7  
1-800-263-3777 (English)  
1-800-263-7854 (French)  
1-800-263-3830 (For Text Telephone devices (TTYs))  
Roadside Assistance: 1-800-268-6800  
(TTY users in Canada can dial 1-800-263-3830.)  
Customer Assistance Offices  
Pontiac encourages customers to call the toll-free number  
for assistance. If a U.S. customer wishes to write to Pontiac,  
the letter should be addressed to Pontiac’s Customer  
Assistance Center.  
All Overseas Locations  
Please contact the local General Motors Business Unit.  
Mexico, Central America and Caribbean  
Islands/Countries (Except Puerto Rico and  
U.S. Virgin Islands)  
United States  
Pontiac-GMC Customer Assistance Center  
P.O. Box 33172  
General Motors de Mexico, S. de R.L. de C.V.  
Customer Assistance Center  
Paseo de la Reforma # 2740  
Col. Lomas de Bezares  
Detroit, MI 48232-5172  
1-800-762-2737 or  
1-800-833-7668 (For Text Telephone devices (TTYs))  
Roadside Assistance: 1-800-ROADSIDE (762-3743)  
From:  
Puerto Rico:  
C.P. 11910, Mexico, D.F.  
01-800-508-0000  
Long Distance: 011-52 - 53 29 0 800  
1-800-496-9992 (English)  
1-800-496-9993 (Spanish)  
U.S. Virgin Islands:  
1-800-496-9994  
Fax Number: 313-381-0022  
8-5  
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GM Mobility Program for Persons  
with Disabilities  
Pontiac Roadside Assistance Program  
This program, available to  
qualified applicants, can  
reimburse you up to $1,000  
toward aftermarket driver  
or passenger adaptive  
equipment you may require  
for your vehicle (hand  
controls, wheelchair/scooter  
lifts, etc.).  
This program can also provide you with free resource  
information, such as area driver assessment centers and  
mobility equipment installers. The program is available  
for a limited period of time from the date of vehicle  
purchase/lease. See your dealer for more details or call  
the GM Mobility Assistance Center at 1-800-323-9935.  
Text telephone (TTY) users, call 1-800-833-9935.  
Security While You Travel  
1-800-ROADSIDE (1-800-762-3743)  
As the proud owner of a new Pontiac vehicle, you are  
automatically enrolled in the Pontiac Roadside  
Assistance program. This value-added service is  
intended to provide you with peace of mind as you  
drive in the city or travel the open road.  
GM of Canada also has a Mobility Program.  
Call 1-800-GM-DRIVE (463-7483) for details.  
When calling from outside Canada, please dial  
1-905-644-3063. All TTY users call 1-800-263-3830.  
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Pontiac’s Roadside Assistance toll-free number is  
staffed by a team of technically trained advisors, who  
are available 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.  
Rental vehicle or taxis  
Airports or train stations  
Police, fire department or hospitals  
We take anxiety out of uncertain situations by providing  
minor repair information over the phone or making  
arrangements to tow your vehicle to the nearest  
Pontiac dealer.  
In many instances, mechanical failures are covered  
under Pontiac’s comprehensive warranty. However,  
when other services are utilized, our advisors will  
explain any payment obligations you might incur.  
We will provide the following services for  
For prompt and efficient assistance when calling, please  
provide the following information to give the advisor:  
3 years/36,000 miles (60 000 km), at no expense to you:  
Fuel delivery  
Location of vehicle  
Lock-out service (identification required)  
Tow to nearest dealership for warranty service  
Change a flat tire  
Telephone number of your location  
Vehicle model, year and color  
Mileage of vehicle  
Jump starts  
We have quick, easy access to telephone numbers of the  
following additional services depending on your needs:  
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)  
Vehicle license plate number  
Hotels  
Glass replacement  
Tire repair facilities  
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Pontiac reserves the right to limit services or  
reimbursement to an owner or driver when, in Pontiac’s  
judgement, the claims become excessive in frequency or  
type of occurrence.  
Courtesy Transportation  
Pontiac has always exemplified quality and value in its  
offering of motor vehicles. To enhance your ownership  
experience, we and our participating dealers are proud  
to offer Courtesy Transportation, a customer support  
program for new vehicles.  
While we hope you never have the occasion to use our  
service, it is added security while traveling for you and  
your family. Remember, we’re only a phone call away.  
Pontiac Roadside Assistance -- 1-800-ROADSIDE  
or 1-800-762-3743, text telephone (TTY) users,  
call 1-888-889-2438.  
The Courtesy Transportation program is offered to  
retail purchase/lease customers in conjunction with  
the Bumper-to-Bumper coverage provided by the  
New Vehicle Limited Warranty. Several transportation  
options are available when warranty repairs are  
required. This will reduce your inconvenience during  
warranty repairs.  
Canadian Roadside Assistance  
Vehicles purchased in Canada have an extensive  
Roadside Assistance program accessible from anywhere  
in Canada or the United States. Please refer to the  
Warranty and Owner Assistance Information book or  
call 1-800-268-6800 for emergency services.  
Plan Ahead When Possible  
When your vehicle requires warranty service, you  
should contact your dealer and request an appointment.  
By scheduling a service appointment and advising your  
service consultant of your transportation needs, your  
dealer can help minimize your inconvenience. If your  
vehicle cannot be scheduled into the service department  
immediately, keep driving it until it can be scheduled for  
service, unless, of course, the problem is safety-related.  
If it is, please call your dealership, let them know this,  
and ask for instructions.  
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If the dealer requests that you simply drop the vehicle  
off for service, you are urged to do so as early in the  
work day as possible to allow for same day repair.  
Courtesy Rental Vehicle  
When your vehicle is unavailable due to overnight  
warranty repairs, your dealer may arrange to provide  
you with a courtesy rental vehicle or reimburse you for  
a rental vehicle you obtained, at actual cost, up to a  
maximum of $30.00 per day supported by receipts.  
This requires that you sign and complete a rental  
agreement and meet state, local and rental vehicle  
provider requirements. Requirements vary and may  
include minimum age requirements, insurance coverage,  
credit card, etc. You are responsible for fuel usage  
charges and may also be responsible for taxes, levies,  
usage fees, excessive mileage or rental usage beyond the  
completion of the repair.  
Transportation Options  
Warranty service can generally be completed while you  
wait. However, if you are unable to wait Pontiac helps  
minimize your inconvenience by providing several  
transportation options. Depending on the circumstances,  
your dealer can offer you one of the following:  
Shuttle Service  
Participating dealers can provide you with shuttle  
service to get you to your destination with minimal  
interruption of your daily schedule. This includes a  
one way shuttle ride to a destination up to 10 miles  
from the dealership.  
Generally it is not possible to provide a like-vehicle as  
a courtesy rental.  
Additional Program Information  
Public Transportation or Fuel Reimbursement  
Courtesy Transportation is available during the  
Bumper-to-Bumper warranty coverage period,  
but it is not part of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.  
A separate booklet entitled “Warranty and Owner  
Assistance Information” furnished with each new  
vehicle provides detailed warranty coverage information.  
If your vehicle requires overnight warranty repairs,  
reimbursement up to $30 per day (five days maximum)  
may be available for the use of public transportation  
such as taxi or bus. In addition, should you arrange  
transportation through a friend or relative, reimbursement  
for reasonable fuel expenses up to $10 per day (five day  
maximum) may be available. Claim amounts should  
reflect actual costs and be supported by original receipts.  
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Courtesy Transportation is available only at  
REPORTING SAFETY  
DEFECTS TO THE UNITED  
STATES GOVERNMENT  
If you believe that your vehicle has a defect which  
could cause a crash or could cause injury or death,  
you should immediately inform the National Highway  
Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), in addition to  
notifying General Motors.  
participating dealers and all program options, such as  
shuttle service, may not be available at every dealer.  
Please contact your dealer for specific information about  
availability. All Courtesy Transportation arrangements  
will be administered by appropriate dealer personnel.  
Canadian Vehicles: For warranty repairs during the  
Complete Vehicle Coverage period of the General  
Motors of Canada New Vehicle Limited Warranty,  
alternative transportation may be available under the  
Courtesy Transportation Program. Please consult your  
dealer for details.  
If NHTSA receives similar complaints, it may open an  
investigation, and if it finds that a safety defect exists in  
a group of vehicles, it may order a recall and remedy  
campaign. However, NHTSA cannot become involved  
in individual problems between you, your dealer or  
General Motors.  
General Motors reserves the right to unilaterally modify,  
change or discontinue Courtesy Transportation at any  
time and to resolve all questions of claim eligibility  
pursuant to the terms and conditions described herein  
at its sole discretion.  
To contact NHTSA, you may either call the Auto Safety  
Hotline toll-free at 1-800-424-9393 (or 366-0123 in  
the Washington, D.C. area) or write to:  
Warranty Information  
Your vehicle comes with a separate warranty booklet  
that contains detailed warranty information.  
NHTSA, U.S. Department of Transportation  
Washington, D.C. 20590  
You can also obtain other information about motor  
vehicle safety from the hotline.  
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REPORTING SAFETY DEFECTS TO REPORTING SAFETY DEFECTS TO  
THE CANADIAN GOVERNMENT  
GENERAL MOTORS  
If you live in Canada, and you believe that your vehicle  
has a safety defect, you should immediately notify  
Transport Canada, in addition to notifying General  
Motors of Canada Limited. You may write to:  
In addition to notifying NHTSA (or Transport Canada)  
in a situation like this, we certainly hope you’ll notify  
us. Please call us at 1–800–762-2737, or write:  
Pontiac-GMC Customer Assistance Center  
P.O. Box 33172  
Detroit, MI 48232-5172  
Transport Canada  
330 Sparks Street  
Tower C  
In Canada, please call us at 1-800-263-3777 (English)  
or 1-800-263-7854 (French). Or, write:  
Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0N5  
General Motors of Canada Limited  
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005  
1908 Colonel Sam Drive  
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7  
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SERVICE PUBLICATIONS ORDERING INFORMATION  
Service Manuals  
Owner’s Information  
Service Manuals have the diagnosis and repair  
information on engines, transmission, axle, suspension,  
brakes, electrical, steering, body, etc.  
Owner publications are written specifically for owners  
and intended to provide basic operational information  
about the vehicle. The owner’s manual will include the  
Maintenance Schedule for all models.  
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $120.00  
In-Portfolio: Includes a Portfolio, Owner’s Manual and  
Warranty Booklet.  
Transmission, Transaxle, Transfer Case  
Unit Repair Manual  
This manual provides information on unit repair  
service procedures, adjustments and specifications  
for GM transmissions, transaxles and transfer cases.  
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $35.00  
Without Portfolio: Owner’s Manual only.  
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $25.00  
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $50.00  
Current and Past Model Order Forms  
Service Publications are available for current and  
past model GM vehicles. To request an order form,  
please specify year and model name of the vehicle.  
Service Bulletins  
Service Bulletins give technical service information  
needed to knowledgeably service General Motors cars  
and trucks. Each bulletin contains instructions to assist  
in the diagnosis and service of your vehicle.  
ORDER TOLL FREE: 1-800-551-4123 – Monday-Friday 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM Eastern Time  
Visit Helm, Inc. on the World Wide Web at: www.helminc.com  
For Credit Card Orders Only (VISA-MasterCard-Discover)  
Helm, Incorporated P.O. Box 07130 Detroit, MI 48207  
Prices are subject to change without notice and without  
incurring obligation. Allow ample time for delivery.  
Note to Canadian Customers: All listed prices are quoted in U.S. funds.  
Canadian residents are to make checks payable in U.S. funds.  
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