SPEAKERS
o w n e r ’ s m a n u a l
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Speaker Placement — Maximizing Your Enjoyment
Proper loudspeaker placement is an essential ingredient to getting the best sound from your high performance stereo,
multi-channel audio or home theater system. The goal is to reproduce faithfully the audio soundtrack the movie director
or music producer created without calling any attention to the speakers themselves.
Fortunately, it is a straightforward process that
just takes some care and patience. Should you
have a large room and the possibility to arrange
the room as you wish or if you are designing a
room for home entertainment refer to the
diagrams shown here for ideal speaker
placement. In this arrangement all speakers
(except the subwoofer) are placed the same
All distances are equal
All distances
are equal
distance from the listener. In most cases, you’ll
need to adapt your speaker placement to a given
room that’s less than ideal. Here are a few
speaker placement basics to keep in mind as you
get started:
5.1 surround speaker placement
6.1/7.1 surround speaker placement
A. You will generally get the best imaging and other spatial qualities if your front left/right speakers and your usual
seating position form an almost equilateral triangle, with the speakers not quite as far apart from each other as
they are from you. If you must sit closer to one speaker than the other, use the Balance control on your
electronics (or the individual level controls on home theater channels) to give the more distant speaker a
balancing boost in volume.
B. Our tower speakers are designed for optimal listening from the seated to standing position. For our monitors, we
offer accessory speaker stands to achieve the right height if you are not using existing shelves or furniture.
C. The best high-frequency dispersion, producing the widest “sweet spot” in which you and others can sit and enjoy
optimum high-frequency definition, will result when your main speaker enclosures are positioned vertically rather
than horizontally. If you are placing your monitors horizontally, the speakerswill still perform very well, but the
seating area where you will enjoy optimum sound will become narrower. We suggest you position the tweeters to
the outside away from the center line. You may prefer to tilt the speakers towards ear level using the adjustable
levelers.
D. If you sit equally distant from both speakers, angling the speakers inward (“toeing them in’) about 5 to 10
degrees usually produces the best convergence of high frequencies where you listen. Different listening positions
may require different toe-in.
E. Surround speaker placement is covered in Section 4. Beyond these basics, experiment with positioning for
optimum performance. Please read the placement guidelines that follow. They are about the speakers, the room,
and you.
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1. The Speakers in Relation to Room Boundaries
The position of your speakers with respect to the walls, floor, and ceiling of your listening room will often affect their
sound in major ways.
A. The closer you place speakers to the boundary surfaces of your room, the greater the proportion of bass in their
overall sound. This is due to the enclosing, “focusing” effects of nearby surfaces on longer-wavelength (lower)
frequencies. Positioning the speakers near the intersection of two surfaces (wall and wall, wall and floor, or wall
and ceiling) will produce more apparent bass than placement near a single surface. The greatest proportion of
bass is delivered by placement near three intersecting surfaces—in a room corner near the floor or ceiling, where
the convergence of the two walls and the floor/ceiling produces an amplifying effect that is a bit like that of a
megaphone. And the least bass comes from placing a speaker away from all boundaries. Your own tastes should
decide what proportion of bass response seems right in your room.
B. The combination of the three dimensions of your room generally will produce at least three points in the room
where the frequency response you experience related to a given position (of either the speaker or you) will either
greatly increase or almost disappear. The most obvious effects are on low frequencies, but mid-frequency effects,
while usually subtler, are also often present. Keep in mind, then, that very small changes in positioning (of the
speakers or you) may produce major or subtle changes.
C. Distances of speakers from the walls can make great differences in the number, strength, and particular
frequencies of secondary reflections—changing frequency-balance, sonic spaciousness, and definition. Most
listeners prefer their speakers at least a few inches from all walls, but the choice is yours to determine by listening.
2. You in Relation to the Speakers
Where you sit in relation to your speakers obviously makes a difference too. The proportions of the particular triangle
formed by your speakers and you matter. (You may need to send more power to the more distant speaker to
compensate if you get much further from one speaker than the other.) The overall distances involved also matter. As
you get further from the speakers, more sound reflected from your room’s surfaces (in contrast to the sound coming
directly from the speakers) reaches your ears, and the original spatial relationships in a recording are changed as your
room “takes over.” Sometimes the result is a mellower, more “integrated” sound. Other times, it’s a more strident or
annoyingly “echoey”—or other—quality. Once again, the particular dimensions of your room play a part. And
depending on what seems more realistic and/or enjoyable to your ears, you may choose to sit at a great distance or have
close-up, “near-field” sound. Keep in mind that the right “toe-in,” the right speaker height, and a reasonably
symmetrical distance from the speakers all tend to work together to deliver the best high-frequency definition and
imaging.
3.
You in Relation to Room Boundaries
Changing your own position with respect to a room’s boundaries may also bring a big effect, sometimes for a small
change. Getting further from the wall behind you may make sound more precise and localized. Getting closer may
make sound more “mellow” and integrated. Coming too close—to back wall, side wall, or (especially) a corner— you
may experience a major peak or cancellation of a certain band of frequencies. It depends on factors we can’t cover fully
here but do get into on our web site.
Remember too, with respect to your own positioning, that it may—or may not—be easier to change your own seating
location than to move your speakers. As with so much else in life, the one certain rule is that you shouldn’t fix, or worry
about, what isn’t broken (audibly in this case), especially if it means moving heavy furniture.
As you consider the three relationships we have outlined, the idea is to manipulate whatever variable is easiest and most
productive for improving your listening experience. Be sure to base your judgements on listening to a good variety of
recordings of vocals, and acoustic instruments, soloists, different movies and musical instruments to most easily
recognize tonal balance shifts.
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4. Positioning Surround Speakers
We are often asked about what kind of surround speakers are best: dipole, bipole, or monopole (direct-radiator).
Placement, room acoustics, and other factors affect the sonic realism of movies and multi-channel audio at least as much
as the radiating characteristics of a speaker. Therefore, we do not make specific recommendations but rather suggest you
discuss the best solution for your particular needs with your authorized PSB audio/video specialty retailer or visit our
Web site. Bipole (speakers in-phase) or direct radiating surrounds placed slightly BEHIND the listening position can
offer an exceptionally convincing diffuse soundfield without calling any attention to the surround speakers themselves. It
should be noted that in the alternative dipole surround configuration the two baffles of each surround speaker are out-
of-phase with each other creating a “null” or dead zone of sound in the area along the 90-degree axis of the speaker.
DIPOLE SURROUNDS MUST BE PLACED ON THE SIDE WALLS DIRECTLY BESIDE THE LISTENING
POSITION. The effect is lost as soon as you
move outside the “null”. All PSB Platinum
Series speakers are timbre matched (have
similar tonal characteristics) for easy mix and
match home theater system flexibility and
ultimate performance. Most surround sound is
meant more to create greater depth and overall
ambience than to localize effects as coming
from a particular spot. How much you prefer
these localized effects vs. overall sonic depth
and diffusion is up to your listening
Null Zone
Bipole 5.1 System
Dipole 5.1 System
preferences. If you are listening to multi-
channel music from DVD-Audio or SACD,
you may want the maximum localization of instruments. However, for most home theater applications a diffuse
soundfield might be preferred. You can locate and aim your surround speakers to produce the effects you prefer,
whether precisely pinpointed or pleasantly diffused. For example, you may choose to position monitors behind your
listening position on stands at ear height as shown in the diagram at right and, experiment with speaker positioning
relation to the listener to obtain the level of direct versus diffuse sound that you prefer.
Most people find it best to mount dedicated surround speakers like our S2 Surrounds on the side walls slightly behind
the prime listening position and two feet above ear height when seated (this typically
places the bottom of the speaker about 5 feet above the floor.) The surround
speakers can also be mounted at ceiling level or on floor stands if this is preferred
but remember to follow the wiring requirements outlined in Surround Speaker
Connections below. Also, for those adding a rear center channel for 6.1 and 7.1
systems, the S2 offers several rear center surround solutions. The S2 Surround with
both dual crossovers and speaker inputs, provides exceptional wiring and placement
possibilities for achieving a diffuse soundstage. For example, the S2’s Tri-mode
Surround Speaker Placement™ (TSSP) design allows for easy bipole or dipole
wiring. In addition, it offers the possibility of using one pair of S2 for 6.1/7.1
systems by wiring the forward firing baffles for the side surround channels and the rear firing baffles for the rear center
surrounds. The illustrations below show several 6.1/7.1 speaker placement options utilizing two, three or four S2
surrounds. Your PSB audio/video specialist will be able to recommend the best placement options for your particular
needs and budget.
Note that as you move from Figure 1 through to Figure 3 power handling improves, therefore the ability to produce
wider dynamic range increases. Also positioning additional S2 Surrounds allows for a more convincing, enveloping
surround soundfield.
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— Surround — Rear
— Surround — Rear
— Surround — Rear
Figure 1
6.1/7.1 System using
two S2 Surrounds
Figure 2
6.1/7.1 System using
three S2 Surrounds
Figure 3
6.1/7.1 System using
four S2 Surrounds
Connections
Important: Always turn off your electronic equipment before connecting speakers.
Selecting Speaker Wire
We recommend the following gauge of standard two-conductor wire for the wiring distances specified; if you prefer,
you can use heavier (lower-gauge) wire.
Under 25 ft (7.5 m):
16-gauge – (1.3 mm)
14-gauge – (1.6 mm)
12-gauge – (2.0 mm)
25-50 ft (15 m):
You may wish to audition and compare the performance of
some of the specialty audio interconnects and speaker cable
available from your dealer.
Over 50 ft (30 m):
Conventional Wiring
Connect speakers identically to your amplifier or receiver on each channel Red amp/receiver terminal to Red speaker
terminal, Black to Black. This will ensure that the diaphragms of the speakers on both channels move forward and
backward together (“in-phase”), rather than in opposition (“out-of-phase”). In-phase connection provides maximum
clarity and bass, while out-of-phase connection results in frequency cancellations and produces thinner and less distinct
sound—with less bass, vague vocal quality, and no solid center image. To help ensure the proper connection, the two
separate conducting wires in a standard two-conductor speaker cable are coded in one way or another to be
distinguishable from each other. (The jacket of one wire may be ribbed or marked with “+” signs, or one wire under
the insulation may be a different color from the other.) Use this wire-coding, together with the amp/receiver and
speaker color-coding, to be sure you are connecting the same wire of a given pair to a like-coded terminal at both ends
of your connection. Assure all wiring terminals are tightened firmly but be careful not to overtighten and damage the
connectors.
Amplifier Output
Right
Left
+
-
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Speaker Connector Options
½” (13mm)
Hex Nut
Movable
Washer
Jumper Strap
R
R
FE
OO
R
FE
OO
W
FE
OO
W
W
Bare Wire Connection
Banana Plug Connection
Spade Plug Connection
Loosen 1/2" (13mm) hex nut.
Insert wire through hole and
tighten nut. Takes wire sizes up
to 8 gauge.
Insert banana plug into the top
of the hex nut. Ensure the hex
nuts are tightened.
Loosen hex nut and lift
moveable washer to expose the
top of the jumper strap. A
1/4"(6mm) or 5/16"(8mm) spade
will fit on the narrower section of
the post. Lower the washer and
tighten the hex nut.
Bi-Wiring and Bi-Amping Options
All PSB Platinum Series speakers can be bi-wired (separate cables to the separated woofers and midrange/tweeters from
the same amplifier) and bi-amped (separate amplifiers). With single cable inputs, the jumper straps must be in place and
both sets of terminals tightened firmly. Before bi-wiring or bi-amping, ALWAYS remove the metal jumper straps that
connect the two sets of
Bi-Wire Connections
binding posts on the
speaker. Loosen ½”
(13mm) hex nuts and lift
moveable washers to
remove the jumper strap.
First
remove
jumpers
First
remove
jumpers
With bi-amp hookup
you must use either
identical amplifiers or
amplifiers adjusted to
have the same voltage
gain. Consult your PSB
dealer or our Web site
for further information.
Right
Left
Amplifier
+
-
Pre-amp
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Bi-Amp Connections
Front
First
remove
jumpers
First
remove
jumpers
First
remove
jumpers
First
remove
jumpers
Left Amplifier
Right
Left
Right Amplifier
Right
Left
+
-
+
-
Pre-amp
Rear Tweeter – Enabled/Disabled (For T8 Tower)
The PSB Platinum T8 Tower has a second, rear-
facing tweeter that can be enabled or disabled at the
user’s preference. The primary purpose of the
second tweeter is to provide added
Enabled
Disabled
ambiance—more of the “air” and overall
spaciousness and a sense of envelopment present in
a recorded or live venue—and, in many cases, some
useful added musicality of the sound of
instruments. We think most listeners will prefer to
leave the tweeter enabled for normal listening. But
because the tweeter faces backwards and depends
on the nearest wall to diffuse its sound, there may
be instances in which spatial localization (imaging)
of musical instruments is not as precise as when you
are using the single, forward-facing tweeter. For any
ER
ER
WOOF
WOOF
such case you might encounter, we would suggest disabling the tweeter to see if you prefer the single tweeter for this
particular use.
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Speaker Connection Options (For S2 Surrounds)
The captioned illustrations below show the following multi-channeled configurations:
1. Bipole or direct radiating surround mode
2. Dipole surround mode
3. 6.1/7.1 system utilizing two (2) S2 surrounds
4. 6.1/7.1 system utilizing three (3) S2 surrounds
5. 6.1/7.1 system utilizing four (4) S2 surrounds
Bipole or direct radiating surround mode
Black
From amp
left SURROUND
channel
Red
From amp
left SURROUND
channel
Black
From amp
right SURROUND
channel
Red
From amp
right SURROUND
channel
Front
Dipole surround mode
Black
From amp
Red
From amp
right SURROUND
channel
right SURROUND
channel
Front
Null Zone
First
remove
jumpers
First
remove
jumpers
First
remove
jumpers
First
remove
jumpers
Wire Jumpers
Black
Red
From amp
left SURROUND
channel
From amp
left SURROUND
channel
Replace gold-plated jumpers with supplied wire jumpers and connect crisscrossed as shown.
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6.1/7.1 System Utilizing Two (2) S2 Surrounds
Black
Red
Black
From amp
right SURROUND
channel
Red
From amp
right SURROUND
channel
— Surround — Rear
From amp
left REAR
channel
From amp
left REAR
channel
Front
First
remove
jumpers
First
remove
jumpers
First
remove
jumpers
First
remove
jumpers
Black
Red
Black
Red
From amp
left SURROUND
channel
From amp
left SURROUND
channel
From amp
right REAR
channel
From amp
right REAR
channel
6.1/7.1 System Utilizing Three (3) S2 Surrounds
— Surround — Rear
Black
From amp
left SURROUND
channel
Red
From amp
left SURROUND
channel
Black
From amp
right SURROUND
channel
Red
From amp
right SURROUND
channel
Front
Black
Red
From amp
right REAR
channel
From amp
right REAR
channel
First
remove
jumpers
First
remove
jumpers
Black
Red
From amp
left REAR
channel
From amp
left REAR
channel
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6.1/7.1 System Utilizing Four (4) S2 Surrounds
— Surround — Rear
Black
From amp
left SURROUND
channel
Red
From amp
left SURROUND
channel
Black
From amp
right SURROUND
channel
Red
From amp
right SURROUND
channel
Front
Black
Red
Black
Red
From amp
left REAR
channel
From amp
left REAR
channel
From amp
right REAR
channel
From amp
right REAR
channel
Recommended Power
We recommend amplifiers and receivers rated from a range of 50-300 watts. For playing at consistently room-filling
volume, a minimum of 100 watts is usually a good idea. Be wary of driving low-powered amplifiers to their limits as
under-powering can cause permanent speaker damage.
Protecting Your Investment
A. For full, year-after-year enjoyment from your speakers, you should respect their limits. Excessive volume levels
can damage even the most “bullet-proof” speakers, especially over extended time periods.
B. When listening to music or movies at very loud volume, you shouldn’t turn up bass or treble all the way or close
thereto. This sends tremendously increased, disproportionate power into the speakers, and may well damage
them. Some loudness compensation (“Loudness”) controls, which boost both bass and treble, can also be
troublesome at high volume. They are intended only for low-volume listening.
C. Finally, you should be aware that when amplifiers and receivers are pushed to their limits to produce excessive
volume levels, they are driven into “clipping” and can do severe damage—especially to tweeters. Often, the
damage is done by underpowered amplifiers, which may reach their limits very soon. When such units begin to
“clip” the audio waveform, they may generate high-frequency “spikes” of tremendous power. More tweeters
have probably been destroyed by this phenomenon than any other. If using your speakers at loud levels, listen
carefully for any sign of harsh, garbled midrange and diminishing intelligibility—and turn the volume down right
away if you detect it.
NEVER TURN UP THE VOLUME ALL THE WAY TO SEE HOW LOUD YOUR SYSTEM WILL PLAY!
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Cabinet Care
Cabinets have varying materials and finishes, including wood veneers and painted cast anodized aluminum parts. They
should be treated as you would any fine furniture with similar finishes. Dust lightly with a soft cloth; avoiding abrasives.
If necessary, wipe carefully with a cloth slightly dampened with glass cleaner to remove heavy soil.
Grilles and Ports
A lint brush does a good job of cleaning grilles. Grilles can be taken off and vacuumed if you prefer. If need be, you
can use a lint brush to clean ports. Avoid touching speaker diaphragms. Particularly, pushing in the aluminum dome of
the tweeter will cause permanent damage.
In Case of Problems
A. Lower volume if a speaker begins to sound distorted or seems to be missing certain frequencies, to check first to
see whether playing at somewhat lower volume seems to clear up the problem. As we noted under
“Recommended Power,” it can be especially important to turn down the volume right away if you have pushed a
low-powered amplifier or receiver past its comfortable limits.
B. Isolate the problem to the electronics or the speakers and, if the speakers, to specific speakers. Interchange the
speaker wire connections on your amplifier or receiver between channels, so that the left speaker is connected to
the right channel, or vice versa. If the problem shifts to the other speaker, the problem is not in the speaker but
in the electronics.
C. Another component—or, very often, a cable or connection problem between components—may be at fault. If
the problem stays in the same speaker, irrespective of the channel to which it’s connected—and after changing
the connecting wire—the speaker itself probably needs service.
D. See your dealer if you require service. PSB dealers are equipped to handle almost all problems. If you have
moved since your purchase, the nearest authorized PSB dealer should be able to help you. You may locate your
nearest PSB authorized dealer on-line at www.psbspeakers.com/r/list.html. If the problem is not resolved,
please contact us, providing the Model name, Serial Number, date of purchase, dealer name, and a full description
of the problem.
We appreciate your purchase, and hope this owner’s guide helps you enjoy the exceptional satisfaction that PSB speaker
systems have to offer. We wish you many years of enjoyable listening!
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PSB Speakers
633 Granite Court
Pickering, Ontario L1W 3K1
CANADA
www.psbspeakers.com
888-772-0000 (North America)
905-831-6555 (International)
Fax: 905-837-6357
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