Niles Audio Car Speaker OS53 User Manual

I N S T A L L A T I O N G U I D E  
F o r u s e i n d i s t r i b u t e d a u d i o o r h o m e t h e a t e r s y s t e m s  
i n d o o r / o u t d o o r W e at h e r P r o o F L o u d s P e a K e r s  
OS7. 3 OS6.3 OS5.3  
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INTROdUCTION  
Niles once again raises the bar. With our first OS Indoor/Outdoor models, we revealed a radical  
new understanding of loudspeaker capabilities. Niles original OS Indoor/Outdoor Loudspeakers are  
constantly praised for their ability to deliver exemplary reliability and outstanding sound quality.  
These attributes have made Niles OS Indoor/Outdoor Loudspeakers the bestselling loudspeakers in  
their class.  
The goal of our new OS Indoor/Outdoor line-up is to raise this bar with refined appearance  
and superior sonic performance, once again establishing a benchmark by which all others are  
judged. The new Niles OS Indoor/Outdoor Loudspeakers owe much of their performance and  
sound quality advantage to design elements pioneered in the award-winning Niles DS Directed  
SoundfieldTM Loudspeakers. Their engineering advances come from our integrated approach to  
driver and cabinet design. By integrating the woofer basket into the baffle of the cabinet, we are  
able to increase the woofer cone-area to cabinet-width ratio, thus enabling OS Indoor/Outdoor  
Loudspeakers to provide levels of bass performance that substantially exceed their physical size.  
However, deeper and more powerful bass isn’t the only refinement in the new OS Indoor/Outdoor  
line-up. A new and modern style enables OS Indoor/Outdoor Loudspeakers to blend seamlessly  
with architectural elements, both indoors and out. After the installation is complete, you will be  
astonished by the experience of hearing such clean and powerful sound coming from such  
elegant-appearing loudspeakers.  
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FEATURES ANd BENEFITS  
PATENT-PENdING INTEGRATEd  
WOOFER/BAFFLE ASSEmBLy  
Increases the woofer cone-area to cabinet-width ratio for enhanced bass output.  
mICA-FILLEd POLyPROPyLENE WOOFER CONE  
Reduces breakup and lowers distortion.  
BUTyL-RUBBER WOOFER CONE SURROUNd  
Damps resonance and provides exceptional durability.  
ULTRASILk® dOmE TWEETER  
One-inch fluid-cooled tweeter provides ultra-wide dispersion for clear, detailed, and extended  
high-frequencies.  
WEAThERPROOF ENGINEERING  
Enables OS loudspeakers to handle extreme hot, cold, and moist environments, exceeding the  
military’s strict anti-corrosion specification MIL-STD-883D.  
AdvANCEd mATERIAL SCIENCE  
Elevates appearance and longevity of the cabinet and grille, plus enhances the performance of the  
woofers, tweeters and crossovers.  
ARChITECTURALLy-FRIENdLy dESIGN  
Delivers stellar acoustical performance, yet tucks discreetly away into corners and under eaves.  
LOW-dIFFRACTION GRILLE ANd FRONT BAFFLE  
Ensures that the sound waves emanating from the woofer and tweeter are not reflected by the  
surrounding parts of the loudspeaker for precise imaging and acoustical accuracy.  
RIGId, ACOUSTICALLy-INERT CABINET  
Prevents transmission of unwanted vibrations for clean and dynamic bass response.  
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ALL-WEAThER vERSATILITy  
Reduces installation limitations to provide great sound from the beaches of Miami to the harsh  
winters of Minneapolis.  
hOmE ThEATER APPLICABILITy  
Enables OS loudspeakers to be used as left, center, right, or surround loudspeakers in home  
theater systems.  
INTEGRATEd mOUNTING BRACkET ANd ShELF STANd  
Provide a variety of secure, quick and easy mounting solutions.  
TAPEREd ShAPE  
Facilitates mounting in corners and under eaves.  
INvERTEd GOLd-PLATEd 5-WAy BINdING POSTS  
Repel moisture and ensure positive connections in virtually any conditions over long periods of time.  
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PARTS GUIdE  
e
a
d
b
c
d
b
d
f
g
g
Figure 1. OS .3 Parts Guide  
h
e
a. Mounting Bracket  
b. Nail Hole  
c. Wire Hole  
d. Screw Hole  
e. Bracket Knob  
f. Grille  
g. Cabinet  
h. Shelf Stand  
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i
j
Figure 2. OS .3 Parts Guide (continued)  
i. Binding Posts  
j. Threaded Insert (1/4"-20 Thread size)  
NOTE: Bracket and Shelf Stand are used depending upon installation requirements.  
See InStaLLatIOn on page 14.  
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INSTALLATION CONSIdERATIONS  
TOOLS ANd mATERIALS REqUIREd  
• Electric drill with 1/4- and 1/2-inch drill bits, and a 1-inch flat drill bit (for drilling  
through studs)  
• Three screws or bolts suitable for the mounting surface  
• The proper screwdriver for the mounting hardware  
• Safety cable (optional)  
• Cable ties  
• Wire stripper  
• Pencil  
• Level  
• Rubber gloves and protective eyewear  
WIRING  
The OS loudspeakers connect to your receiver or amplifier using 2-conductor loudspeaker wire  
(see Figure 3 on the next page). For most applications, we recommend using 16- or 18-gauge  
wire. For wiring runs longer than 80 feet, we recommend 14-gauge wire. The binding posts on  
OS loudspeakers accommodate up to 12-gauge wire directly. Larger sizes can be accommodated  
using spade, banana, or pin connectors.  
TECh TIP  
Wire size is expressed by its AWG (American  
Wire Gauge) number – the lower the number,  
the larger the wire. For example, 12 AWG is  
physically larger than 14 AWG.  
When you run wire inside walls, outdoors or in marine installations, special jacketing or conduit is  
required for a trouble-free installation and conformation to the local and national building codes. If  
you are not sure of the correct wire jacket or type of conduit to use, consult a professional audio/  
video installer, building contractor, or the local building and inspection department.  
INCORPORATING A vOLUmE CONTROL  
It’s possible to control the volume of the sound at the loudspeaker location. Plan to wire the system  
so that each pair of loudspeakers has its own volume control. Niles makes a wide range of indoor  
and outdoor volume controls with and without muting capabilities. Consult your local Niles dealer  
for more information. Volume controls are connected in line with the loudspeaker, so you must  
connect the wire from the amplifier to the volume control and then from the volume control to the  
loudspeaker (see Figure 4 on the next page).  
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Figure 3. Wiring directly from a  
receiver or amplifier.  
Figure 4. Incorporating a  
volume control.  
RECOmmENdEd AmPLIFIER POWER  
For optimum performance, we recommend amplifiers with the following power ratings:  
For the OS 5.3 loudspeaker, 5 to 100 W per channel  
For the OS 6.3 loudspeaker, 5 to 125 W per channel  
For the OS 7.3 loudspeaker, 5 to 150 W per channel  
Ironically, most loudspeakers are not damaged by large amplifiers but by small amplifiers. If you  
are playing at high volume, a small amplifier will run out of power very quickly. When an amplifier  
runs out of power it creates damaging “clipping” distortion. A large amplifier will play at the  
same volume without distorting. See OPERatIOn on page 17 for more information about  
clipping distortion.  
PLACING LOUdSPEAkERS FOR ThE BEST SOUNd qUALITy  
An OS loudspeaker’s dispersion pattern is very broad. This allows good sound quality over an  
extremely large listening area. However, if a single pair is positioned to provide coverage of a very  
large room or patio, you will have “hot spots” of loud sound when you are near the loudspeakers.  
The best way to avoid hot spots for a large space is to use several pairs of loudspeakers evenly  
spaced throughout the room. A good rule of thumb is to install a pair of loudspeakers for every  
200 to 400 square feet of listening area. Your local Niles dealer is a good source for advice on  
loudspeaker placement for your particular installation.  
(ConTinuEd on nExT PagE)  
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PLACING LOUdSPEAkERS FOR ThE BEST SOUNd qUALITy  
(continued)  
When using more than one pair, it is usually best to alternate a left channel and then a right  
channel, so that you have the best possible stereo coverage possible.  
The position of the loudspeakers and their surroundings play a very important role in how a stereo  
image is created. You should experiment to find the very best position for your loudspeakers. Here  
are some guidelines to make the process quick and easy.  
Speaker  
Placement  
Zone  
10'  
5'  
10'  
Speaker  
Placement  
Zone  
Figure 5. Illustration depicts the optimum placement zone  
for a listening distance of 10 feet.  
Make sure you are not blocking or reflecting the sound off of furniture or other objects. You  
should have a direct line of sight with the front of the loudspeaker. To determine the best position,  
measure the distance between the ideal listening position and the wall you plan to mount the  
loudspeakers on. Try to place the loudspeakers so that they are at least one-half the listening  
distance apart (this maintains a large, pleasant stereo “image”) and less than the entire listening  
distance (this avoids a “hole-in-the-middle” effect). For example; if you are ten feet back from the  
wall, the loudspeakers should be between 5 and 10 feet apart (see Figure 5).  
If possible, mount the loudspeakers between 8 and 12 feet high. The less the downward angle  
of the loudspeaker, the further the sound will carry. If the sound is carrying into areas where you  
do not want sound, try pointing the loudspeakers more downward; this will reduce the amount of  
sound further away from the loudspeaker.  
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You can control the loudspeaker’s bass output by placement. This is called the boundary effect. You  
will get more bass response by mounting the loudspeaker directly to a wall or other flat surface (any  
boundary close to the loudspeaker will reinforce the bass frequencies). You can increase the bass  
output even more by mounting the loudspeaker in a corner or under an eave (see Figure 6) This  
type of placement gives the loudspeaker two boundaries, thus reinforcing the bass sounds even  
more. Of course, if you wish to hear less bass, try moving the loudspeaker away from the boundary  
(see Figure 7).  
Figure 6. Placement for more bass output.  
Figure 7. Placement  
for less bass output.  
mOUNTING mEThOdS  
The OS loudspeakers can be mounted either horizontally or vertically. The bracket knobs will keep  
the loudspeaker angled correctly in any position once they are tightened. You can choose from three  
mounting methods to attach the loudspeaker to the wall, ceiling, or other mounting surface.  
1. if the loudspeaker is never going to be exposed to sudden accidental impacts, wind,  
waves, or earthquakes, you can simply hang it on a nail using the nail hole(s) on the  
bracket (see Figure 8 on the next page).  
2. The safest and most secure way to mount the loudspeaker is by screwing it to the  
mounting surface using your own hardware (suitable for the surface you are mounting  
to) and the bracket supplied with the loudspeaker (see Figure 8).  
3. There is a threaded brass insert (1/4" – 20) on the back of the oS loudspeakers  
for attaching a custom bracket (see Figure 8). This allows you to position the  
loudspeaker at unusual angles or varying distances from the mounting surface.  
(ConTinuEd on nExT PagE)  
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mOUNTING mEThOdS (continued)  
Nail Mounting  
Screw Mounting  
Custom Bracket Mounting  
Figure 8. The OS loudspeakers can be mounted three ways.  
SAFETy FIRST!  
Be careful to use hardware that is designed for the surface you are mounting to. The OS 5.3  
loudspeaker with the bracket weighs 5-1/2 pounds. The OS 6.3 loudspeaker with the bracket  
weighs 6-1/2 pounds. The OS 7.3 loudspeaker with the bracket weighs 9 pounds. We recommend  
using attachment methods capable of supporting ten times the weight of the loudspeaker  
and bracket.  
Some local building codes require the use of an additional safety cable to mount loudspeakers on a  
wall. If so, the 1/4"-20 threaded insert on the rear of the enclosure can be utilized for securing the  
safety cable to the enclosure. Construction of the safety cable and attachment of the cable to the  
wall need to meet the local building codes.  
If you are not sure of a safe way to mount the loudspeakers or are unsure of your local building  
codes, consult a professional installer or a building contractor for the proper installation techniques  
and requirements.  
You will maximize the useful life of the loudspeaker by placing the loudspeaker so that it receives  
less exposure to the elements. Look for the best overall compromise between sound quality,  
convenience, and exposure. Do not compromise safety.  
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PAINTING ThE LOUdSPEAkER  
The enclosure, the brackets, and the grilles of the loudspeaker can all be painted to match the  
surroundings. Because we want you to preserve the acoustic qualities of the grille, please paint the  
grille according to the grille painting instructions. Make sure you pick a paint that is appropriate for  
the mounting location. There are interior and exterior paint types, and even paint for marine uses. If  
you are not sure what paint to use, consult a paint store professional or a painter.  
TOOLS REqUIREd  
• Spray can of primer paint  
• The correct paint for the environment/use (oil- or water-based paint is fine)  
• Paint brush or applicator (if the paint is not in a spray can)  
awl (for removing the grille)  
• Masking tape  
• Two paint masks (supplied)  
a damp cloth and a dry cloth  
PREPARING TO PAINT  
1. Separate the parts of the loudspeaker. You should remove the brackets and the  
bracket knobs. Remove the grille by hooking it with the tip of an awl and pulling it  
away from the cabinet (see Figure 9 on the next page).  
2. Wipe off the sides of the cabinet, the bracket, bracket knobs, and grille with a damp  
cloth. do not touch or rub the loudspeakers on the front baffle. Make sure everything  
is dry before masking.  
3. Mask off the binding posts and the brass threaded inserts on the back panel with  
masking tape.  
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PREPARING TO PAINT (continued)  
Figure 9. Removing the grille using an awl.  
4. Mask off the threaded inserts on the top and bottom with masking tape.  
5. Protect the front of the loudspeakers by inserting the supplied paint masks in place of  
the grilles.  
PAINTING ThE CABINET, BRACkET kNOBS, ANd BRACkET  
1. apply two thin coats of a sandable spray primer to the cabinet and knobs. The bracket  
doesn’t require a coat of primer.  
2. allow the primer to dry completely.  
3. apply the finish color.  
4. allow the paint to dry completely.  
5. Carefully remove the masking material.  
6. do not reattach the loudspeaker to the bracket until the bracket is mounted. Try to  
keep all handling of the freshly-painted parts to a minimum.  
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PAINTING ThE GRILLE  
The grille is important to the sound of the loudspeaker. Do not fill the holes of the grille with paint.  
The grille is constructed of aluminum with a perfectly-even powder coat overall. This powder coat  
is an ideal primer.  
If you are using a spray paint, use two thin coats without any primer. If you are using a compressor  
and a spray gun, use the finest, most diffuse setting. Practice on paper if you are not experienced  
in painting with spray paint.  
If you are using an applicator or brush and a can of paint, thin the paint first. Thick paint will tend  
to clog the grille holes. To ensure a uniform appearance, paint the front and back of the grille.  
REPLACING ThE GRILLE  
After the grille dries, carefully fit the grille into its recess so that it is barely in place. Starting with  
one corner, go around the loudspeaker, pushing in the grille a little bit each time, and making sure  
not to bend the grille out of shape. You will feel a positive “snap” when it is in place.  
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INSTALLATION  
mOUNTING ThE BRACkET (IF ATTAChING ThE  
LOUdSPEAkER TO A WALL, CEILING, BEAm, OR  
OThER SOLId STRUCTURE)  
1. Loosen the bracket knobs and remove the bracket from the loudspeaker.  
2. Hold the bracket up to the mounting surface. The loudspeaker can be mounted either  
horizontally or vertically. Hold the bracket so that the loudspeaker wire fits through the  
large, circular wire hole in the center of the bracket. align the bracket so it is square  
with the surroundings (use a level for accuracy).  
3. Mark the locations of the three oval-shaped screw holes (see Figure 10). Be sure to  
use all of the holes.  
Figure 10. Mounting the Bracket  
4. drill pilot holes into the mounting surface.  
5. Pull the loudspeaker wire through the wire hole in the center of the mounting bracket.  
align the bracket so that the holes all line up.  
6. use your hardware to attach the bracket to the mounting surface.  
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ATTAChING ThE FOOT (IF USING ThE LOUdSPEAkER IN  
FREE-STANdING mOdE)  
1. Loosen the bracket knobs and remove the bracket from the loudspeaker.  
2. Tighten the top knob so it does not vibrate.  
3. Remove the bottom knob by unscrewing it from the cabinet.  
4. Place the supplied shelf stand on the loudspeaker with the two shorter feet towards  
the front of the loudspeaker (see Figure 11). Make sure the ridges on the shelf  
stand engage the ridges on the cabinet.  
5. Tighten the bottom knob so that the shelf stand does not move.  
Figure 11. Mounting the shelf  
stand on the OS loudspeaker  
Bottom of Speaker  
CONNECTING ThE LOUdSPEAkER  
1. Separate the two conductors of the loudspeaker wire so that at least 2 inches of each  
conductor are free.  
2. Strip away 1/2 inch of insulation from the end of each conductor of the  
loudspeaker wire.  
3. if you have any connectors (gold pins or bananas) which you prefer to use, affix them  
to the stripped wire ends now. only gold-plated connectors should be used outside, as  
they will not tarnish or corrode.  
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CONNECTING ThE LOUdSPEAkER (continued)  
4. if using the bracket to attach to a solid surface, slide the loudspeaker onto the bracket.  
do not tighten the knobs completely. angle the loudspeaker so that the rear terminals  
are accessible. if using the shelf stand, position the loudspeaker on the stand and place  
it on the shelf or table where you want it.  
5. Connect one stripped wire end to the black terminal and one to the red terminal, using  
correct polarity.  
NOTE: ObsErvE cOrrEcT pOlariTy: pOsiTivE (+) gOEs TO ThE rED pOsT aND NEgaTivE  
(–) gOEs TO ThE blacK pOsT. if yOu arE uNsurE Of wirE pOlariTy, sEE CHECKING  
LOUDSPEAKER PHASE bElOw.  
6. if required, attach the safety cable to the loudspeaker enclosure. See Safety  
firSt on page 10 for details.  
7. Verify that the loudspeakers are in-phase, as described in CHeCKiNG  
LOUDSPeaKer PHaSe below.  
8. angle the loudspeaker for the best sound possible.  
9. Tighten the bracket knobs by hand only.  
NOTE: DO NOT USE ANY TOOLS FOR TIGHTENING. DOING SO MAY STRIP THE INSERT THREADS.  
10. Check that the entire installation is safe and secure.  
ChECkING LOUdSPEAkER PhASE  
Loudspeaker wire has two conductors. On both your loudspeaker and amplifier, one conductor  
is attached to the negative (–) terminals, while the other is attached to the positive (+) terminals.  
Usually, the wire is marked for your convenience, but the marking can be done in the following  
different ways:  
• Stripe on one wire  
• Ribbed area you can feel on one conductor  
different colors of metal wire on each conductor  
• Fabric strand or string wound into one of the conductors  
Of course, there are some wires that appear completely identical. So be careful, or you might make  
a connection mistake. If you do, one loudspeaker will be playing “out-of-phase” with the other  
loudspeaker. A pair of out-of-phase loudspeakers works against each other, and the sound of the  
two playing together will be lacking in bass and sound “phasey.” If you suspect the sound is not  
right, and you cannot see any markings on the wire, try this simple test:  
16  
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1. Stand halfway between the loudspeakers.  
2. Play some music with the amplifier or receiver set to Mono.  
3. Listen to the richness of the bass and the loudness of the sound.  
4. Turn off the amplifier and reverse the connections on one amplifier channel only.  
5. Repeat the listening test with the same volume control setting. When the sound  
has a richer bass and is slightly louder, the loudspeakers are working together or  
“in-phase.”  
OPERATION  
LISTENING AT hIGhER vOLUmES  
Outdoors there are no walls to reflect and contain the sound. It requires more power to achieve a  
reasonable volume of sound outside than it does indoors. You also frequently find yourself very far  
from the loudspeakers. It is possible to turn the volume so high that the amplifier runs out of power.  
This creates “clipping” distortion.  
Clipping distortion makes treble sound very harsh and unmusical. When you hear harsh sounding  
treble from any good loudspeaker indoors or outdoors, turn the volume down immediately! Those  
harsh sounds are masking some much more powerful ultra-high-frequency sound spikes which  
will quickly damage any fine loudspeaker.  
CLEANING  
Clean the OS loudspeakers with a dampened soft cloth or paper towel. If the loudspeaker is  
mounted high up on a wall or ceiling, use a broom to gently brush it off. Hosing off the loudspeaker  
is not recommended, as the tweeter is a precise mechanism which might be damaged by a  
high-pressure stream of water.  
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SPECIFICATIONS  
OS 7.3 Loudspeaker  
Driver Complement  
OS 6.3 Loudspeaker  
Driver Complement  
OS 5.3 Loudspeaker  
Driver Complement  
• 7" mica-filled polypropylene • 6" mica-filled polypropylene • 5" mica-filled polypropylene  
woofer  
woofer  
woofer  
• 1" Ultrasilk dome tweeter  
• 1" Ultrasilk dome tweeter  
• 1" Ultrasilk dome tweeter  
with fluid cooling  
with fluid cooling  
with fluid cooling  
Recommended  
Recommended  
Recommended  
amplifier Power  
5 to 150 watts per channel  
amplifier Power  
5 to 125 watts per channel  
amplifier Power  
5 to 100 watts per channel  
nominal Impedance  
8 ohms  
nominal Impedance  
8 ohms  
nominal Impedance  
8 ohms  
Frequency Response  
65 Hz to 21 kHz, +/- 3 dB  
Frequency Response  
75 Hz to 21 kHz, +/- 3 dB  
Frequency Response  
100 Hz to 21 kHz, +/- 3 dB  
Sensitivity  
Sensitivity  
Sensitivity  
91 dB with 2.83 V pink noise  
input, measured at 1 meter  
on axis  
90 dB with 2.83 V pink noise  
input, measured at 1 meter  
on axis  
90 dB with 2.83 V pink noise  
input, measured at 1 meter  
on axis  
Wiring Requirements  
We recommend using 16- to  
18-gauge speaker wire  
for runs up to 80 feet and  
14-gauge speaker wire for  
runs up to 200 feet. The  
Wiring Requirements  
We recommend using 16- to  
18-gauge speaker wire  
for runs up to 80 feet and  
14-gauge speaker wire for  
runs up to 200 feet. The  
Wiring Requirements  
We recommend using 16- to  
18-gauge speaker wire  
for runs up to 80 feet and  
14-gauge speaker wire for  
runs up to 200 feet. The  
connectors will accommodate connectors will accommodate connectors will accommodate  
12- to 22-gauge wire.  
12- to 22-gauge wire.  
12- to 22-gauge wire.  
Dimensions (Loudspeaker  
with U-Bracket)  
8-3/16" Wide x 14-1/2" High  
x 9-3/16" Deep  
Dimensions (Loudspeaker  
with U-Bracket)  
7-7/16" Wide x 12" High  
x 7-3/4" Deep  
Dimensions (Loudspeaker  
with U-Bracket)  
6-1/4" Wide x 9-7/8" High  
x 6-3/4" Deep  
Weight (Loudspeaker and  
Bracket)  
18 lb per pair  
Weight (Loudspeaker and  
Bracket)  
15 lb per pair  
Weight (Loudspeaker and  
Bracket)  
11 lb per pair  
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NOTES  
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NOTES  
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NOTES  
niLes audio CorPoration – 1-800-buy-hiFi – 305-238-4373  
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®
Bl e n d i n g Hi g H Fi d e l i t y An d Ar c H i t e c t u r e  
n i l e s a u d i o C o r p o r a t i o n  
1 2 3 3 1 s . W . 1 3 0 s t r e e t m i a m i , F l o r i d a 3 3 1 8 6  
d e s i g n e d a n d e n g i n e e r e d i n u s a  
©2008 niles audio Corporation. all rights reserved. niles, the niles logos and blending high Fidelity and  
architecture are registered trademarks of niles audio Corporation.  
all other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. ds00425b  
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Miele Clothes Dryer 4580690 User Manual
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