I N S T A L L A T I O N G U I D E
F o r u s e i n d i s t r i b u t e d a u d i o o r h o m e t h e a t e r s y s t e m s
i n d o o r / o u t d o o r W e at h e r P r o o F L o u d s P e a K e r s
OS7. 3 OS6.3 OS5.3
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INTROdUCTION
Niles once again raises the bar. With our first OS Indoor/Outdoor models, we revealed a radical
new understanding of loudspeaker capabilities. Niles original OS Indoor/Outdoor Loudspeakers are
constantly praised for their ability to deliver exemplary reliability and outstanding sound quality.
These attributes have made Niles OS Indoor/Outdoor Loudspeakers the bestselling loudspeakers in
their class.
The goal of our new OS Indoor/Outdoor line-up is to raise this bar with refined appearance
and superior sonic performance, once again establishing a benchmark by which all others are
judged. The new Niles OS Indoor/Outdoor Loudspeakers owe much of their performance and
sound quality advantage to design elements pioneered in the award-winning Niles DS Directed
SoundfieldTM Loudspeakers. Their engineering advances come from our integrated approach to
driver and cabinet design. By integrating the woofer basket into the baffle of the cabinet, we are
able to increase the woofer cone-area to cabinet-width ratio, thus enabling OS Indoor/Outdoor
Loudspeakers to provide levels of bass performance that substantially exceed their physical size.
However, deeper and more powerful bass isn’t the only refinement in the new OS Indoor/Outdoor
line-up. A new and modern style enables OS Indoor/Outdoor Loudspeakers to blend seamlessly
with architectural elements, both indoors and out. After the installation is complete, you will be
astonished by the experience of hearing such clean and powerful sound coming from such
elegant-appearing loudspeakers.
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FEATURES ANd BENEFITS
PATENT-PENdING INTEGRATEd
WOOFER/BAFFLE ASSEmBLy
Increases the woofer cone-area to cabinet-width ratio for enhanced bass output.
mICA-FILLEd POLyPROPyLENE WOOFER CONE
Reduces breakup and lowers distortion.
BUTyL-RUBBER WOOFER CONE SURROUNd
Damps resonance and provides exceptional durability.
ULTRASILk® dOmE TWEETER
One-inch fluid-cooled tweeter provides ultra-wide dispersion for clear, detailed, and extended
high-frequencies.
WEAThERPROOF ENGINEERING
Enables OS loudspeakers to handle extreme hot, cold, and moist environments, exceeding the
military’s strict anti-corrosion specification MIL-STD-883D.
AdvANCEd mATERIAL SCIENCE
Elevates appearance and longevity of the cabinet and grille, plus enhances the performance of the
woofers, tweeters and crossovers.
ARChITECTURALLy-FRIENdLy dESIGN
Delivers stellar acoustical performance, yet tucks discreetly away into corners and under eaves.
LOW-dIFFRACTION GRILLE ANd FRONT BAFFLE
Ensures that the sound waves emanating from the woofer and tweeter are not reflected by the
surrounding parts of the loudspeaker for precise imaging and acoustical accuracy.
RIGId, ACOUSTICALLy-INERT CABINET
Prevents transmission of unwanted vibrations for clean and dynamic bass response.
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ALL-WEAThER vERSATILITy
Reduces installation limitations to provide great sound from the beaches of Miami to the harsh
winters of Minneapolis.
hOmE ThEATER APPLICABILITy
Enables OS loudspeakers to be used as left, center, right, or surround loudspeakers in home
theater systems.
INTEGRATEd mOUNTING BRACkET ANd ShELF STANd
Provide a variety of secure, quick and easy mounting solutions.
TAPEREd ShAPE
Facilitates mounting in corners and under eaves.
INvERTEd GOLd-PLATEd 5-WAy BINdING POSTS
Repel moisture and ensure positive connections in virtually any conditions over long periods of time.
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PARTS GUIdE
e
a
d
b
c
d
b
d
f
g
g
Figure 1. OS .3 Parts Guide
h
e
a. Mounting Bracket
b. Nail Hole
c. Wire Hole
d. Screw Hole
e. Bracket Knob
f. Grille
g. Cabinet
h. Shelf Stand
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i
j
Figure 2. OS .3 Parts Guide (continued)
i. Binding Posts
j. Threaded Insert (1/4"-20 Thread size)
NOTE: Bracket and Shelf Stand are used depending upon installation requirements.
See InStaLLatIOn on page 14.
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INSTALLATION CONSIdERATIONS
TOOLS ANd mATERIALS REqUIREd
• Electric drill with 1/4- and 1/2-inch drill bits, and a 1-inch flat drill bit (for drilling
through studs)
• Three screws or bolts suitable for the mounting surface
• The proper screwdriver for the mounting hardware
• Safety cable (optional)
• Cable ties
• Wire stripper
• Pencil
• Level
• Rubber gloves and protective eyewear
WIRING
The OS loudspeakers connect to your receiver or amplifier using 2-conductor loudspeaker wire
(see Figure 3 on the next page). For most applications, we recommend using 16- or 18-gauge
wire. For wiring runs longer than 80 feet, we recommend 14-gauge wire. The binding posts on
OS loudspeakers accommodate up to 12-gauge wire directly. Larger sizes can be accommodated
using spade, banana, or pin connectors.
TECh TIP
Wire size is expressed by its AWG (American
Wire Gauge) number – the lower the number,
the larger the wire. For example, 12 AWG is
physically larger than 14 AWG.
When you run wire inside walls, outdoors or in marine installations, special jacketing or conduit is
required for a trouble-free installation and conformation to the local and national building codes. If
you are not sure of the correct wire jacket or type of conduit to use, consult a professional audio/
video installer, building contractor, or the local building and inspection department.
INCORPORATING A vOLUmE CONTROL
It’s possible to control the volume of the sound at the loudspeaker location. Plan to wire the system
so that each pair of loudspeakers has its own volume control. Niles makes a wide range of indoor
and outdoor volume controls with and without muting capabilities. Consult your local Niles dealer
for more information. Volume controls are connected in line with the loudspeaker, so you must
connect the wire from the amplifier to the volume control and then from the volume control to the
loudspeaker (see Figure 4 on the next page).
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Figure 3. Wiring directly from a
receiver or amplifier.
Figure 4. Incorporating a
volume control.
RECOmmENdEd AmPLIFIER POWER
For optimum performance, we recommend amplifiers with the following power ratings:
• For the OS 5.3 loudspeaker, 5 to 100 W per channel
• For the OS 6.3 loudspeaker, 5 to 125 W per channel
• For the OS 7.3 loudspeaker, 5 to 150 W per channel
Ironically, most loudspeakers are not damaged by large amplifiers but by small amplifiers. If you
are playing at high volume, a small amplifier will run out of power very quickly. When an amplifier
runs out of power it creates damaging “clipping” distortion. A large amplifier will play at the
same volume without distorting. See OPERatIOn on page 17 for more information about
clipping distortion.
PLACING LOUdSPEAkERS FOR ThE BEST SOUNd qUALITy
An OS loudspeaker’s dispersion pattern is very broad. This allows good sound quality over an
extremely large listening area. However, if a single pair is positioned to provide coverage of a very
large room or patio, you will have “hot spots” of loud sound when you are near the loudspeakers.
The best way to avoid hot spots for a large space is to use several pairs of loudspeakers evenly
spaced throughout the room. A good rule of thumb is to install a pair of loudspeakers for every
200 to 400 square feet of listening area. Your local Niles dealer is a good source for advice on
loudspeaker placement for your particular installation.
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PLACING LOUdSPEAkERS FOR ThE BEST SOUNd qUALITy
(continued)
When using more than one pair, it is usually best to alternate a left channel and then a right
channel, so that you have the best possible stereo coverage possible.
The position of the loudspeakers and their surroundings play a very important role in how a stereo
image is created. You should experiment to find the very best position for your loudspeakers. Here
are some guidelines to make the process quick and easy.
Speaker
Placement
Zone
10'
5'
10'
Speaker
Placement
Zone
Figure 5. Illustration depicts the optimum placement zone
for a listening distance of 10 feet.
Make sure you are not blocking or reflecting the sound off of furniture or other objects. You
should have a direct line of sight with the front of the loudspeaker. To determine the best position,
measure the distance between the ideal listening position and the wall you plan to mount the
loudspeakers on. Try to place the loudspeakers so that they are at least one-half the listening
distance apart (this maintains a large, pleasant stereo “image”) and less than the entire listening
distance (this avoids a “hole-in-the-middle” effect). For example; if you are ten feet back from the
wall, the loudspeakers should be between 5 and 10 feet apart (see Figure 5).
If possible, mount the loudspeakers between 8 and 12 feet high. The less the downward angle
of the loudspeaker, the further the sound will carry. If the sound is carrying into areas where you
do not want sound, try pointing the loudspeakers more downward; this will reduce the amount of
sound further away from the loudspeaker.
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You can control the loudspeaker’s bass output by placement. This is called the boundary effect. You
will get more bass response by mounting the loudspeaker directly to a wall or other flat surface (any
boundary close to the loudspeaker will reinforce the bass frequencies). You can increase the bass
output even more by mounting the loudspeaker in a corner or under an eave (see Figure 6) This
type of placement gives the loudspeaker two boundaries, thus reinforcing the bass sounds even
more. Of course, if you wish to hear less bass, try moving the loudspeaker away from the boundary
(see Figure 7).
Figure 6. Placement for more bass output.
Figure 7. Placement
for less bass output.
mOUNTING mEThOdS
The OS loudspeakers can be mounted either horizontally or vertically. The bracket knobs will keep
the loudspeaker angled correctly in any position once they are tightened. You can choose from three
mounting methods to attach the loudspeaker to the wall, ceiling, or other mounting surface.
1. if the loudspeaker is never going to be exposed to sudden accidental impacts, wind,
waves, or earthquakes, you can simply hang it on a nail using the nail hole(s) on the
bracket (see Figure 8 on the next page).
2. The safest and most secure way to mount the loudspeaker is by screwing it to the
mounting surface using your own hardware (suitable for the surface you are mounting
to) and the bracket supplied with the loudspeaker (see Figure 8).
3. There is a threaded brass insert (1/4" – 20) on the back of the oS loudspeakers
for attaching a custom bracket (see Figure 8). This allows you to position the
loudspeaker at unusual angles or varying distances from the mounting surface.
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mOUNTING mEThOdS (continued)
Nail Mounting
Screw Mounting
Custom Bracket Mounting
Figure 8. The OS loudspeakers can be mounted three ways.
SAFETy FIRST!
Be careful to use hardware that is designed for the surface you are mounting to. The OS 5.3
loudspeaker with the bracket weighs 5-1/2 pounds. The OS 6.3 loudspeaker with the bracket
weighs 6-1/2 pounds. The OS 7.3 loudspeaker with the bracket weighs 9 pounds. We recommend
using attachment methods capable of supporting ten times the weight of the loudspeaker
and bracket.
Some local building codes require the use of an additional safety cable to mount loudspeakers on a
wall. If so, the 1/4"-20 threaded insert on the rear of the enclosure can be utilized for securing the
safety cable to the enclosure. Construction of the safety cable and attachment of the cable to the
wall need to meet the local building codes.
If you are not sure of a safe way to mount the loudspeakers or are unsure of your local building
codes, consult a professional installer or a building contractor for the proper installation techniques
and requirements.
You will maximize the useful life of the loudspeaker by placing the loudspeaker so that it receives
less exposure to the elements. Look for the best overall compromise between sound quality,
convenience, and exposure. Do not compromise safety.
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PAINTING ThE LOUdSPEAkER
The enclosure, the brackets, and the grilles of the loudspeaker can all be painted to match the
surroundings. Because we want you to preserve the acoustic qualities of the grille, please paint the
grille according to the grille painting instructions. Make sure you pick a paint that is appropriate for
the mounting location. There are interior and exterior paint types, and even paint for marine uses. If
you are not sure what paint to use, consult a paint store professional or a painter.
TOOLS REqUIREd
• Spray can of primer paint
• The correct paint for the environment/use (oil- or water-based paint is fine)
• Paint brush or applicator (if the paint is not in a spray can)
• awl (for removing the grille)
• Masking tape
• Two paint masks (supplied)
• a damp cloth and a dry cloth
PREPARING TO PAINT
1. Separate the parts of the loudspeaker. You should remove the brackets and the
bracket knobs. Remove the grille by hooking it with the tip of an awl and pulling it
away from the cabinet (see Figure 9 on the next page).
2. Wipe off the sides of the cabinet, the bracket, bracket knobs, and grille with a damp
cloth. do not touch or rub the loudspeakers on the front baffle. Make sure everything
is dry before masking.
3. Mask off the binding posts and the brass threaded inserts on the back panel with
masking tape.
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PREPARING TO PAINT (continued)
Figure 9. Removing the grille using an awl.
4. Mask off the threaded inserts on the top and bottom with masking tape.
5. Protect the front of the loudspeakers by inserting the supplied paint masks in place of
the grilles.
PAINTING ThE CABINET, BRACkET kNOBS, ANd BRACkET
1. apply two thin coats of a sandable spray primer to the cabinet and knobs. The bracket
doesn’t require a coat of primer.
2. allow the primer to dry completely.
3. apply the finish color.
4. allow the paint to dry completely.
5. Carefully remove the masking material.
6. do not reattach the loudspeaker to the bracket until the bracket is mounted. Try to
keep all handling of the freshly-painted parts to a minimum.
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PAINTING ThE GRILLE
The grille is important to the sound of the loudspeaker. Do not fill the holes of the grille with paint.
The grille is constructed of aluminum with a perfectly-even powder coat overall. This powder coat
is an ideal primer.
If you are using a spray paint, use two thin coats without any primer. If you are using a compressor
and a spray gun, use the finest, most diffuse setting. Practice on paper if you are not experienced
in painting with spray paint.
If you are using an applicator or brush and a can of paint, thin the paint first. Thick paint will tend
to clog the grille holes. To ensure a uniform appearance, paint the front and back of the grille.
REPLACING ThE GRILLE
After the grille dries, carefully fit the grille into its recess so that it is barely in place. Starting with
one corner, go around the loudspeaker, pushing in the grille a little bit each time, and making sure
not to bend the grille out of shape. You will feel a positive “snap” when it is in place.
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INSTALLATION
mOUNTING ThE BRACkET (IF ATTAChING ThE
LOUdSPEAkER TO A WALL, CEILING, BEAm, OR
OThER SOLId STRUCTURE)
1. Loosen the bracket knobs and remove the bracket from the loudspeaker.
2. Hold the bracket up to the mounting surface. The loudspeaker can be mounted either
horizontally or vertically. Hold the bracket so that the loudspeaker wire fits through the
large, circular wire hole in the center of the bracket. align the bracket so it is square
with the surroundings (use a level for accuracy).
3. Mark the locations of the three oval-shaped screw holes (see Figure 10). Be sure to
use all of the holes.
Figure 10. Mounting the Bracket
4. drill pilot holes into the mounting surface.
5. Pull the loudspeaker wire through the wire hole in the center of the mounting bracket.
align the bracket so that the holes all line up.
6. use your hardware to attach the bracket to the mounting surface.
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ATTAChING ThE FOOT (IF USING ThE LOUdSPEAkER IN
FREE-STANdING mOdE)
1. Loosen the bracket knobs and remove the bracket from the loudspeaker.
2. Tighten the top knob so it does not vibrate.
3. Remove the bottom knob by unscrewing it from the cabinet.
4. Place the supplied shelf stand on the loudspeaker with the two shorter feet towards
the front of the loudspeaker (see Figure 11). Make sure the ridges on the shelf
stand engage the ridges on the cabinet.
5. Tighten the bottom knob so that the shelf stand does not move.
Figure 11. Mounting the shelf
stand on the OS loudspeaker
Bottom of Speaker
CONNECTING ThE LOUdSPEAkER
1. Separate the two conductors of the loudspeaker wire so that at least 2 inches of each
conductor are free.
2. Strip away 1/2 inch of insulation from the end of each conductor of the
loudspeaker wire.
3. if you have any connectors (gold pins or bananas) which you prefer to use, affix them
to the stripped wire ends now. only gold-plated connectors should be used outside, as
they will not tarnish or corrode.
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CONNECTING ThE LOUdSPEAkER (continued)
4. if using the bracket to attach to a solid surface, slide the loudspeaker onto the bracket.
do not tighten the knobs completely. angle the loudspeaker so that the rear terminals
are accessible. if using the shelf stand, position the loudspeaker on the stand and place
it on the shelf or table where you want it.
5. Connect one stripped wire end to the black terminal and one to the red terminal, using
correct polarity.
NOTE: ObsErvE cOrrEcT pOlariTy: pOsiTivE (+) gOEs TO ThE rED pOsT aND NEgaTivE
(–) gOEs TO ThE blacK pOsT. if yOu arE uNsurE Of wirE pOlariTy, sEE CHECKING
LOUDSPEAKER PHASE bElOw.
6. if required, attach the safety cable to the loudspeaker enclosure. See Safety
firSt on page 10 for details.
7. Verify that the loudspeakers are in-phase, as described in CHeCKiNG
LOUDSPeaKer PHaSe below.
8. angle the loudspeaker for the best sound possible.
9. Tighten the bracket knobs by hand only.
NOTE: DO NOT USE ANY TOOLS FOR TIGHTENING. DOING SO MAY STRIP THE INSERT THREADS.
10. Check that the entire installation is safe and secure.
ChECkING LOUdSPEAkER PhASE
Loudspeaker wire has two conductors. On both your loudspeaker and amplifier, one conductor
is attached to the negative (–) terminals, while the other is attached to the positive (+) terminals.
Usually, the wire is marked for your convenience, but the marking can be done in the following
different ways:
• Stripe on one wire
• Ribbed area you can feel on one conductor
• different colors of metal wire on each conductor
• Fabric strand or string wound into one of the conductors
Of course, there are some wires that appear completely identical. So be careful, or you might make
a connection mistake. If you do, one loudspeaker will be playing “out-of-phase” with the other
loudspeaker. A pair of out-of-phase loudspeakers works against each other, and the sound of the
two playing together will be lacking in bass and sound “phasey.” If you suspect the sound is not
right, and you cannot see any markings on the wire, try this simple test:
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1. Stand halfway between the loudspeakers.
2. Play some music with the amplifier or receiver set to Mono.
3. Listen to the richness of the bass and the loudness of the sound.
4. Turn off the amplifier and reverse the connections on one amplifier channel only.
5. Repeat the listening test with the same volume control setting. When the sound
has a richer bass and is slightly louder, the loudspeakers are working together or
“in-phase.”
OPERATION
LISTENING AT hIGhER vOLUmES
Outdoors there are no walls to reflect and contain the sound. It requires more power to achieve a
reasonable volume of sound outside than it does indoors. You also frequently find yourself very far
from the loudspeakers. It is possible to turn the volume so high that the amplifier runs out of power.
This creates “clipping” distortion.
Clipping distortion makes treble sound very harsh and unmusical. When you hear harsh sounding
treble from any good loudspeaker indoors or outdoors, turn the volume down immediately! Those
harsh sounds are masking some much more powerful ultra-high-frequency sound spikes which
will quickly damage any fine loudspeaker.
CLEANING
Clean the OS loudspeakers with a dampened soft cloth or paper towel. If the loudspeaker is
mounted high up on a wall or ceiling, use a broom to gently brush it off. Hosing off the loudspeaker
is not recommended, as the tweeter is a precise mechanism which might be damaged by a
high-pressure stream of water.
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SPECIFICATIONS
OS 7.3 Loudspeaker
Driver Complement
OS 6.3 Loudspeaker
Driver Complement
OS 5.3 Loudspeaker
Driver Complement
• 7" mica-filled polypropylene • 6" mica-filled polypropylene • 5" mica-filled polypropylene
woofer
woofer
woofer
• 1" Ultrasilk dome tweeter
• 1" Ultrasilk dome tweeter
• 1" Ultrasilk dome tweeter
with fluid cooling
with fluid cooling
with fluid cooling
Recommended
Recommended
Recommended
amplifier Power
5 to 150 watts per channel
amplifier Power
5 to 125 watts per channel
amplifier Power
5 to 100 watts per channel
nominal Impedance
8 ohms
nominal Impedance
8 ohms
nominal Impedance
8 ohms
Frequency Response
65 Hz to 21 kHz, +/- 3 dB
Frequency Response
75 Hz to 21 kHz, +/- 3 dB
Frequency Response
100 Hz to 21 kHz, +/- 3 dB
Sensitivity
Sensitivity
Sensitivity
91 dB with 2.83 V pink noise
input, measured at 1 meter
on axis
90 dB with 2.83 V pink noise
input, measured at 1 meter
on axis
90 dB with 2.83 V pink noise
input, measured at 1 meter
on axis
Wiring Requirements
We recommend using 16- to
18-gauge speaker wire
for runs up to 80 feet and
14-gauge speaker wire for
runs up to 200 feet. The
Wiring Requirements
We recommend using 16- to
18-gauge speaker wire
for runs up to 80 feet and
14-gauge speaker wire for
runs up to 200 feet. The
Wiring Requirements
We recommend using 16- to
18-gauge speaker wire
for runs up to 80 feet and
14-gauge speaker wire for
runs up to 200 feet. The
connectors will accommodate connectors will accommodate connectors will accommodate
12- to 22-gauge wire.
12- to 22-gauge wire.
12- to 22-gauge wire.
Dimensions (Loudspeaker
with U-Bracket)
8-3/16" Wide x 14-1/2" High
x 9-3/16" Deep
Dimensions (Loudspeaker
with U-Bracket)
7-7/16" Wide x 12" High
x 7-3/4" Deep
Dimensions (Loudspeaker
with U-Bracket)
6-1/4" Wide x 9-7/8" High
x 6-3/4" Deep
Weight (Loudspeaker and
Bracket)
18 lb per pair
Weight (Loudspeaker and
Bracket)
15 lb per pair
Weight (Loudspeaker and
Bracket)
11 lb per pair
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NOTES
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NOTES
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NOTES
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®
Bl e n d i n g Hi g H Fi d e l i t y An d Ar c H i t e c t u r e
n i l e s a u d i o C o r p o r a t i o n
1 2 3 3 1 s . W . 1 3 0 s t r e e t m i a m i , F l o r i d a 3 3 1 8 6
d e s i g n e d a n d e n g i n e e r e d i n u s a
©2008 niles audio Corporation. all rights reserved. niles, the niles logos and blending high Fidelity and
architecture are registered trademarks of niles audio Corporation.
all other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. ds00425b
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