KTM Motorcycle 85 105 SX User Manual
OWNER’S MANUAL 2007  
85/105 SX  
ART. NR. 3.211.143 EN  
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IMPORTANT INFORMATION »  
INTENDED PURPOSE  
KTM mini-sports motorcycles are designed and constructed to resist the usual wear and tear of normal  
use in competitions.  
The motorcycles comply with the regulations and categories currently in effect with the leading interna-  
tional motorcycle associations.  
OWNER’S MANUAL  
Please read this manual thoroughly before letting your youngster ride the motorcycle for the first time.  
This manual contains important information and recommendations that will help you and your youngster  
to operate and handle the motorcycle properly. In the interest of everybody involved, we urge you to pay  
particular attention to instructions and information marked as follows:  
– Ignoring these instructions can be dangerous to life and limb!  
2
– Ignoring these instructions may damage parts of the motorcycle or impair the motorcycle's  
traffic safety!  
This manual contains important information on the operation and maintenance of your new KTM motor-  
cycle. It went to press describing your model’s latest state of development. Nevertheless, the descriptions  
may deviate slightly from the current design as our motorcycles are permanently improved.The Owner's  
Manual is an integral part of the motorcycle and must be handed over to the new owner when the motor-  
cycle is sold.  
SERVICE  
Observance of the service, maintenance and tuning instructions for the engine and chassis specified in  
the Owner's Manual is a prerequisite for faultless operation and the avoidance of premature wear. An  
improperly tuned chassis can lead to damage and breakage of the chassis components (see chapter on  
checking the basic chassis setting).  
The use of the motorcycle under extreme conditions, e.g. on extremely muddy and wet terrain, can lead  
to higher than average wear on components such as the drive train or the brakes. In this case it may  
become necessary to service or replace wear parts before the service limit specified in the maintenance  
schedule has been reached.  
We expressly point out that work marked with an asterisk (*) in the chapter "Maintenance work on the  
chassis and engine" must be performed by a KTM workshop. If maintenance work should become neces-  
sary during a competition, it must be performed by a trained mechanic.  
Please strictly observe the prescribed running-in periods and inspection and maintenance intervals.  
Compliance with these instructions will significantly prolong the life of your motorcycle.  
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IMPORTANT INFORMATION »  
WARRANTY  
The service work specified in the "Lubrication and Maintenance Schedule" must be performed by a KTM  
workshop and recorded in the service manual otherwise claims under the warranty shall become void.  
No claims can be filed under the warranty for damage or consequential damage caused by manipulations  
or conversions to the motorcycle.  
AUTOMOTIVE FLUIDS  
The fuels and lubricants specified in the Owner's Manual or automotive fluids with equivalent specifica-  
tions must be used in accordance with the maintenance schedule.  
SPARE PARTS, ACCESSORIES  
For the safety of your child, only use spare parts and accessories approved by KTM. KTM shall not assume  
any liability for other products or consequential damage resulting from the use of such products.  
When special needs arise, please contact a KTM dealer, who will seek the assistance of the KTM importer  
if necessary.  
3
SAFETY  
Parents should keep in mind that the safety of their youngsters always depends on the efforts made by  
the parents to ensure that the motorcycle is kept in good working order and only used on safe terrains.  
Nevertheless, driving the motorcycle, like driving any other vehicle, involves a potential risk. Therefore,  
please make sure that all fundamental precautions are taken. Please also read the „INFORMATION ON  
SAFE DRIVING FOR PARENTS“ on page 4.  
TRANSPORT  
When transporting your motorcycle, secure it with elastic straps or other mechanical devices in an upright  
position. Be sure that the fuel tap is closed. If the motorcycle topples over, fuel can flow out of the car-  
buretor or fuel tank.  
ENVIRONMENT  
Riding an off-highway motorcycle is a wonderful form of outdoor recreation and we certainly hope that  
you and your youngsters will enjoy it to the full. However, this enjoyable outdoor activity can cause envi-  
ronmental problems or lead to conflicts with other people. Responsible use of the motorcycle will prevent  
such problems and conflicts. You can contribute to securing the future of motorcycling by making sure  
that you and your youngsters only use the motorcycle within the limits established by the applicable laws,  
making environmental protection one of your top priorities and never violating other people’s rights.  
In this spirit, we hope that you and your youngsters will always safely enjoy your motorcycle!  
KTM-SPORTMOTORCYCLE AG  
5230 MATTIGHOFEN, AUSTRIA  
Attachments: 1 spare parts manual chassis & engine  
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IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR PARENTS ABOUT SAFE DRIVING »  
The 85/105 SX mini motorcycles are off-road motorcycles designed for one person only. They are not allowed  
on public roads.  
The vehicle dimensions and components are designed for children from 10 to 15 years of age with a  
maximum weight of 75 kg (33,98 lb).  
4
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Have your youngster wear proper protective gear whenever he or she rides the motorcycle: helmet, eye  
protection, chest, back, arm and leg protectors, gloves and boots. To set a good example, be sure to  
wear protective gear yourself whenever riding a motorcycle!  
Before your youngster takes his or her first ride, explain how each of the controls works and check if  
your youngster has understood what you explained. We recommend to review the entire owner’s manual  
with your youngster item by item, paying particular attention to the specially marked warnings and  
pointing out the danger of injury.  
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Instruct your youngster about riding and falling techniques, explain how the motorcycle will respond  
to shifting of the rider’s weight, etc.  
Before starting the motorcycle for the first time check whether the basic fork and shock absorber  
settings are suitable for your child's weight (see chapter on checking the basic chassis setting)  
Before using the motorcycle you should always check all components for proper operation (see mai-  
nenance schedule). Have your youngster perform these technical checks himself / herself as well.  
Whenever you go for a ride with your youngster, keep in mind that the speed should be adjusted to  
your youngster and not the other way around.  
Your youngster must understand that all instructions he or she receives from you or any other super-  
vising adult must be followed.  
Your child must be physically ready to ride a motorcycle. This means that he or she must at least be  
able to ride a bicycle. Being good at sports that require fast reactions is an additional advantage. Your  
youngster should be strong enough to pick up the motorcycle after a fall.  
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Never demand too much of your youngster. Give him or her time to get used to the motorcycle and to  
improve his / her riding skills. Do not even consider letting your youngster participate in a race before  
his / her physical condition, riding skills and motivation have sufficiently developed.  
Explain to your youngster that he / she should always adjust his / her riding speed to the local condi-  
tions as well as to his / her own riding skills and that excessive speed can cause falls and severe inju-  
ries. Always keep in mind that youngsters tend to underestimate dangers or fail to recognize them  
altogether. The riding speed must be reduced, in particular, on unknown terrain.  
Never let your youngster ride the motorcycle without supervision. An adult should always be present.  
The motorcycle is designed for one rider only. Your youngster is not allowed to transport a passenger.  
When you go for a ride, somebody at home should always know where you are going and when you  
will be back. This makes it easier to send you help, should problems occur.  
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TABLE OF CONTENTS »  
Page  
Page  
Checking the shock absorber and spring . . . . . . . . . .18  
Determining the static sag of the shock absorber . . . .18  
Determining the riding sag of the shock absorber . . . .18  
Overview of the shock absorber springs . . . . . . . . . . .19  
Checking the basic setup of the telescopic fork . . . . .19  
Overview of the telescopic fork springs . . . . . . . . . . .19  
Checking chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20  
Correct chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20  
Chain maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20  
General information about KTM disc brakes . . . . . . . .21  
Adjusting free travel of the hand brake lever . . . . . . .21  
Checking the brake fluid level/ refilling . . . . . . . . . . .22  
Checking front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22  
Replacing the front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22  
Changing basic position of the brake pedal . . . . . . . .23  
Checking the rear brake fluid level . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23  
Refilling the rear brake fluid reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . .23  
Checking rear brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23  
Dismounting and mounting the front wheel . . . . . . . .24  
Dismounting and mounting the rear wheel . . . . . . . . .25  
Tires, air pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25  
Checking spoke tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25  
Cleaning the air filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26  
Exhaust system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26  
Changing the original position of the clutch lever . . . .27  
Checking the oil level of the hydraulic clutch . . . . . . .27  
Bleeding of the hydraulic clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27  
Adjusting the throttle cable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27  
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28  
Checking coolant level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28  
Refilling/Bleeding the cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . .28  
Carburetor adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29  
Draining the float chamber of the carburetor . . . . . . .30  
Checking gear oil level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30  
Changing gear oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30  
IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR PARENTS ABOUT SAFE  
DRIVING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4  
SERIAL NUMBER LOCATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6  
Chassis number . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6  
Engine number . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6  
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6  
Clutch lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6  
Hand brake lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6  
Short circuit button . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7  
Filler cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7  
Fuel tap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7  
Choke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7  
Shift lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7  
Kickstarter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8  
Foot brake pedal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8  
Plugin- Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8  
Compression damping of fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8  
Rebound damping of fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8  
Damping action during compression of shock absorber .9  
Rebound damping function of the shock absorber . . . .9  
5
GENERAL TIPS AND WARNINGS FOR STARTING THE  
MOTORCYCLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10  
Instructions for the first ride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10  
Running in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10  
DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11  
What you should check before each start . . . . . . . . . .11  
Starting when the engine is cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12  
Starting when the engine is warm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12  
What to do when the engine is “flooded“ . . . . . . . . . .12  
Starting off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12  
Shifting/Riding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12  
Refueling, fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13  
Braking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13  
Stopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13  
TROUBLE SHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31  
CLEANING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33  
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE . . . . . . . . . . . . .14  
STORAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33  
Use after period of storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33  
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE . . . .16  
Checking and adjusting the steering head bearing . . .16  
Breather plug front fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16  
Cleaning the dust sleeves of the telescopic fork . . . . .17  
How to change the handlebar position . . . . . . . . . . . .17  
Changing the spring preloading of the shock absorber .17  
Basic suspension setup for the weight of the driver . . .18  
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – CHASSIS . . . . . . . . . .34  
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . .35  
CARBURETOR SETTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37  
HEAD WORD INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38  
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SERIAL NUMBER LOCATIONS »  
Chassis number  
The chassis number is stamped on the right side of the steering head tube.  
Enter this number in the field on page no 1.  
Engine number  
The engine number is stamped into the engine housing underneath the  
carburetor. Enter this number in the field on page no 1.  
6
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »  
Clutch lever  
The clutch lever [1] is located on the left side of the handlebar. The adjust-  
ing screw [A] is used to change the original position of the clutch lever (see  
maintenance work on chassis and engine).  
The clutch is hydraulically actuated and adjusts itself automatically.  
A
1
Hand brake lever  
The hand brake lever [2] is mounted on the handle bars on the right and actu-  
ates the front wheel brake.The adjusting screw [B] is used to change the orig-  
inal position of the hand brake lever (see maintenance work on chassis and  
engine).  
B
2
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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »  
Short circuit button  
The short circuit button [1] turns off the engine. When pressing this button,  
the ignition circuit is short-circuited.  
1
Filler cap  
To open it: turn filler cap counter-clockwise.  
To close it: put filler cap back on and tighten it by turning it clockwise.  
Install tank breather hose [2] without kinks.  
2
7
Fuel tap  
OFF  
ON  
OFF In this position the fuel tap is closed. No fuel can flow to the carburetor.  
ON  
When the motorcycle is running the grip is must be in the ON  
position to enable fuel to flow to the carburetor. The tank will  
drain completely in this position.  
Choke  
The choke button [3] is located on the left side of the carburetor. Pulling the  
choke button [3] all the way out opens a bore in the carburetor through which  
the engine can take in additional fuel, thus achieving the "rich" fuel air  
mixture needed for cold starting.  
3
Pushing the choke button back in closes the bore in the carburetor.  
Shift lever  
The shift lever is mounted on the left side of the engine. The position of the  
gears is shown in the illustration. Neutral, or the idle speed, is located between  
first and second gear.  
2,3,4,5,6  
N
1
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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »  
Kickstarter  
The kickstarter is mounted on the right side of the engine. Its upper part can  
be swivelled.  
Foot brake pedal  
The foot brake pedal is located in front of the right foot rest. Its basic posi-  
tion can be adjusted to your seat position (see maintenance work).  
8
Plugin- Stand  
The plug-in stand [1] included in the scope of supply can be plugged into the  
left side of the bike at the end of the swinging fork.  
1
Compression damping of fork  
Hydraulic compression damping determines the reaction when the fork is com-  
pressed. The degree of compression can be adjusted with adjusting  
screws at the bottom of the fork legs.Remove the protecting cap.  
Turn the knob [2] clockwise to increase damping, turn it counterclockwise to  
reduce damping during compression.  
STANDARD ADJUSTMENT  
– turn adjusting screw clockwise as far as it will go  
– turn it back by as many clicks as are specified for the relevant type of fork  
2
Typ WP Suspension 05187C05  
20 clicks  
2
Rebound damping of fork  
Hydraulic rebound damping determines the reaction when the fork is  
rebound. By turning the adjusting screw [3] (REB), the degree of damping of  
the rebound can be adjusted. Turn the knob clockwise to increase damping,  
turn it counterclockwise to reduce damping during rebounding.  
3
3
STANDARD ADJUSTMENT  
– turn adjusting screw clockwise as far as it will go  
– turn it back by as many clicks as are specified for the relevant type of fork  
Typ WP Suspension 05187C05  
20 clicks  
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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »  
Damping action during compression of shock absorber  
The shock absorber on the models can synchronize the compression  
damping in the low and high-speed range separately (Dual Compression  
Control).  
Low and high speed refers to the movement of the shock absorber during  
compression and not to the speed of the motorcycle.  
The low and high-speed technology overlaps.  
The low-speed setting is primarily for slow to normal shock absorber  
compression rates.The high-speed setting is effective at fast compression  
rates.Turning in a clockwise direction will increase the damping, turning  
counterclockwise will decrease the damping.  
Standard low-speed setting:  
– Turn the adjusting screw [1] to the limit in a clockwise direction using a  
3
screwdriver .  
– Unscrew the respective number of clicks for the specific type of shock absorber  
in a counterclockwise direction.  
Typ WP Suspension 15187C02  
15 clicks  
1
9
Standard high-speed setting:  
– Turn the adjusting screw [2] to the limit in a clockwise direction using a  
box wrench.  
– Unscrew the respective number of turns for the specific type of shock absorber  
in a counterclockwise direction.  
Typ WP Suspension 15187C02  
2 turns  
2
The damping unit of the shock absorber is filled with high-compression nitro-  
gen. Never try to take the shock absorber apart or to do any maintenance work  
yourself. Severe injuries could be the result.  
Never unscrew the black screw 3 connection (24mm).  
Rebound damping function of the shock absorber  
By using the adjusting screw [4], the degree of damping of the rebound can  
be adjusted. Turn the knob clockwise to increase damping, turn it counter-  
clockwise to reduce damping during rebounding.  
5
STANDARD ADJUSTMENT:  
– turn the adjusting screw clockwise to the stop.  
– then turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise, counting the number of  
clicks that corresponds to the respective type of shock absorber.  
Type WP Suspension 15187C02  
22 clicks  
4
The damping unit of the shock absorber is filled with high-compression nitro-  
gen. Never try to take the shock absorber apart or to do any maintenance work  
yourself. Severe injuries could be the result.  
Never unscrew the black screw connection 5 (15mm).  
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GENERAL TIPS AND WARNINGS FOR STARTING THE MOTORCYCLE »  
Instructions for the first ride  
– Make sure the work for the "pre-delivery inspection" was per-  
– Have your youngster wear proper protective gear whenever  
he or she rides the motorcycle: helmet, eye protection, chest,  
back, arm and leg protectors, gloves and boots. To set a good  
example, be sure to wear protective gear yourself whenever  
riding a motorcycle!  
– Only use accessory parts recommended by KTM.  
– The front and rear wheel are only allowed to be tired with  
tires that have the same profile type.  
– Your youngster's driving speed should always be adjusted to  
his/her driving skills as well as to the terrain.  
– Your youngster should never be allowed to ride the motorcy-  
cle without supervision.  
– Replace the helmet visor or goggle glasses early enough. When  
light shines directly on a scratched visor or goggles, you will  
be practically blind.  
– Never leave your motorcycle without supervision as long as  
the engine is running.  
– SX models are designed for one person only. Passengers are  
not allowed.  
– These models do not comply with the regulations and safety  
standards established by the law. Therefore, they are not per-  
mitted on public roads.  
– Always keep in mind that other people feel molested by  
excessive noise.  
formed by your authorized KTM workshop. The DELIVERY  
CERTIFICATE and SERVICE MANUAL will be handed over  
when you pick up your vehicle.  
– Before your youngster takes his or her first ride, explain how  
each of the controls works and check if your youngster has  
understood what you explained. We recommend to review the  
entire owner’s manual with your youngster item by item, pay  
ing particular attention to the specially marked warnings and  
pointing out the danger of injury.  
– Adjust the clutch lever, hand lever and foot brake pedal so  
your child can operate them easily!  
– To prevent injury, teach your youngster the basic riding skills  
on soft ground, e.g. on a meadow or in the garden. Be sure  
that there is room enough to maneuver, and that no other rid  
ers are close.  
– To ensure that your youngster gets the feel of the hand brake,  
have your youngster operate the hand brake while you push  
the motorcycle. Do not start the engine before your young  
ster has learned to apply hand brake with appropriate  
pressure.  
– To familiarize your youngster with the operation of the hand  
brake let him or her practice to operate the hand brake while  
you are pushing the motorcycle. Do not start the engine  
before he or she is thoroughly familiar with the use of the  
hand brake.  
10  
– Initially, your youngster should ride back and forth between  
two persons who help the young rider to stop the motorcy-  
cle. However, you should also teach your youngster how to  
stop the motorcycle himself/herself.  
– To improve his/her riding skills, your youngster should prac  
tise riding the motorcycle standing on the footpegs or to rid  
ing at the slowest possible speed. Additionally, you can  
arrange a series of obstacles and have your youngster drive  
around them, etc.  
– Pay attention to the running-in procedure.  
Running in  
– Even very precisely machined sections of engine components  
have rougher surfaces than components which have been sli  
ing across one another for quite some time. Therefore, every  
engine needs to be broken in. For this reason, during its first  
30 minutes the engine must not be revved up to its perform  
ance limits.  
– Apply low but changing loads for running-in.  
– DO NOT DRIVE AT FULL LOAD FOR THE FIRST 30  
MINUTES!  
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DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS »  
What you should check before each start  
When you start off, the motorcycle must be in a perfect technical condition.  
For safety reasons, you should make it a habit to perform an overall check of  
your motorcycle before each start.  
The following checks should be performed:  
1 CHECKING THE ENGINE  
Check the engine for any oil leakage. Too little gear oil will lead to  
premature wear and consequently destroy the transmission.  
2 FUEL  
Check that there is sufficient fuel in the tank; when closing the filler cap,  
check that the tank venting hose is free of kinks.  
11  
3 CHAIN  
A loose chain was fall off the chain wheels; an extremely worn chain may  
tear, and insufficient lubrication may result in unnecessary wear of the chain  
and chain wheels.  
4 TIRES  
Check for damaged tires. Tires showing cuts or dents must be replaced.  
Also check the air pressure. Insufficient tread and incorrect air pressure  
deteriorate the driving performance.  
5 BRAKES  
Check the correct functioning of the braking system. Verify that there is  
sufficient brake fluid in the reservoir. The reservoirs have been designed  
in such a way that brake fluid does not need to be refilled even when the  
brake pads are worn. If the level of brake fluid falls below the minimum  
value, this indicates a leak in the braking system or completely worn out  
brake pads. Always have the brake system checked by a KTM workshop to  
avoid brake failure.  
Also check the state of the brake hose and the thickness of the brake linings.  
Check free travel at the hand brake lever and foot brake lever.  
If the resistance in the hand brake lever feels “spongy” (too much play), this  
is an indication that something is wrong with the brake system. Don’t let your  
child ride the motorcycle anymore without first having the brake system looked  
over by a KTM dealer.  
6 CABLES  
Check correct setting and easy running of all control cables.  
7 COOLING FLUID  
Check the level of cooling fluid when the engine is cold.  
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DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS »  
Starting when the engine is cold  
1 Open fuel tap [1] .  
2 Put the gear in neutral  
3 Activate the cold-starting aid (choke) [2].  
4 Leave throttle closed and kick down the kickstarter vigorously all the way.  
– To avoid injury when starting the engine, always wear strong bikers boots!You  
may slip off the kickstarter, or the engine may kick back if you do not kick  
hart enough.  
– Check for power transmission at temperatures below 0°C (32°F) before  
you actuate the kickstarter. If you depress the kickstarter without feeling  
any resistance, power ist not being transmitted. This could cause injuries.  
– Do not start the engine and allow it to idle in a closed area. Exhaust fumes  
are poisonous and can cause loss of consciousness and death. Always pro-  
vide adequate ventilation while the engine is running.  
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Do not ride your motorcycle at full load and do not rev up the engine when  
cold. since the piston warms up and expands faster than the water cooled  
cylinder, this might cause engine damage. always let engine idle until warm  
or drive it warm at low r.p.m. speeds.  
NOTE:  
The highly inflammable components in modern fuels volatilize if left stand-  
ing for longer periods of time. If the motorcycle has not been used for over  
1 week, the fuel should be drained from the float chamber. The engine will  
start up immediately if the float chamber is filled with fresh, ignitable fuel  
Starting when the engine is warm  
1 Open fuel tap  
2 Put the gear in neutral  
3 Leave throttle closed and kick down kickstarter vigorously all the way.  
What to do when the engine is “flooded“  
1 Close fuel tap  
2 Start engine with full throttle. If necessary, unscrew spark plug and dry it.  
3 Once the engine is running, open fuel tap again.  
Starting off  
Pull the clutch lever. Put the engine into first gear, slowly release the clutch  
lever and accelerate at the same time.  
3
Always remove the plug-in [3] stand before your child rides the motorcycle.  
Shifting/Riding  
You are now in first gear, referred to as the drive or uphill gear. Depending on  
the conditions (traffic, hill size, etc.), you can shift to a higher gear. Turn down  
the throttle, at the same time pull clutch lever in and shift to the next higher  
gear. Let clutch lever go again and open the throttle. If you turned on the  
choke, make sure you turn it off again as soon as engine is warm.  
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DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS »  
When shifting down, use the brakes if necessary and turn down  
at the same time. Pull clutch lever and shift down to the next  
lower gear. Let the clutch lever go slowly and open throttle or  
shift down again.  
Do not touch any of these parts after starting the motorcycle,  
and take care to park it where pedestrians are not likely to touch  
it and get burned.  
– Close the fuel tap when leaving your vehicle. Otherwise the  
carburetor may get flooded and fuel will enter the engine.  
– The plug-in stand is designed to hold the weight of the  
motorcycle only. By sitting on the motorcycle, your child will  
put additional weight on the plug-in stand, possibly causing  
the plug-in stand or swinging fork to be damaged or the motor-  
cycle to fall down.  
– After falling with the motorcycle, check all its functions  
thoroughly before using it again.  
– A twisted handlebar must always be replaced. Do not adjust  
the handlebar, it will lose stability.  
– Driving a cold engine at high speed will reduce the life of  
the engine. We recommend to warm the engine up at a  
medium engine speed for several minutes before switching  
to full load.  
– Never have the throttle wide open when changing down to  
a lower gear. The engine will overrev, damaging the valves.  
In addition, the rear wheel blocks so that the motorcycle can  
easily get out of control.  
– If the engine runs without throttle during longer downhill travel,  
the engine should be accelerated occasionally to ensure that it  
is supplied with sufficient lubricant which is mixed in the fuel.  
– In the event that, while your child is riding on the motorcy-  
cle, you notice any unusual operation-related noise, your child  
should stop immediately, turn the engine off, and contact  
an authorized KTM dealer.  
13  
Refueling, fuel  
Oil (high-grade two-stroke engine oil; i.e. Motorex Cross Power  
2T) must be mixed with the fuel (ROZ 95) at a mixing ratio  
of 1:40.  
Gasoline is highly flammable and poisonous. Extreme caution  
should be used when handling gasoline. Never refuel the motor-  
cycle near open flames or burning cigarettes. Always switch off  
the engine before refueling. Be careful not to spill gasoline on  
the engine or exhaust pipe while the engine is hot. Wipe up spills  
promptly. If gasoline is swallowed or splashed in the eyes, seek  
a doctor’s advice immediately.  
Braking  
– Only use premium-grade gasoline ROZ 95 mixed with high-  
grade two-stroke engine oil. Other types of gasoline can  
cause engine failure.  
– Only use known brands of high-grade 2-stroke engine oil  
(Motorex Cross Power 2T).  
– Not enough oil or low-grade oil can cause erosion of the pis-  
ton. when Using too much oil, the engine may start smok-  
ing and foul the spark plug.  
– Fuel expands when its temperature rises. Therefore do not  
fill the tank to the top. (see fig.)  
– Do not use premixed two-stroke oils, oils for outboard engines  
or normal engine oil to prepare the mixture.  
– Do not use gasoline and oil mixtures that are older than one  
week. The lubrication properties of some two-stroke oils can  
deteriorate very rapidly.  
Turn off the gas and apply the hand and foot brakes at the same  
time. When driving on sandy, wet or slippery ground use mainly  
the rear wheel brake. Always brake with feeling, blocking wheels  
can cause you to skid or fall. Also change down to lower gears  
depending on your speed.  
– In case of rain, after washing the motorcycle, after rides through  
water and in case of rides on wet off-road tracks, humid or  
dirty brake discs can delay the braking effect. The brakes  
must be pulled until they are dry or clean.  
– Dirty brake discs cause increased tear of brake pads and brake discs.  
– When you brake, the brake discs, brake pads, brake caliper  
and brake fluid heat up. The hotter these parts get, the  
weaker the breaking effect. In extreme cases, the entire  
braking system can fail.  
Stopping  
Brake motorcycle and shift gears to idling. To switch off the engine,  
depress short circuit switch until the engine stops. Close fuel tap.  
40 mm  
Motorcycle engines produce a great amount of heat while  
running. The engine, exhaust pipe, muffler, brake rotors, and  
shock absorbers can become very hot.  
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PERIODIC MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE »  
85 SX 2007  
A CLEAN MOTORCYCLE CAN BE CHECKED MORE QUICKLY WHICH SAVES MONEY  
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Check gear box oil level  
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Change gear box oil  
Check spark plugs, adjust distance between electrodes  
Renew spark plugs  
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Clean the spark-plug connector and check for a tight fit  
Check the screws on the kick starter and shift lever for a tight fit  
Check the carburetor connection boot and intake flange for cracks or leaks  
Check idle speed setting  
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Check that vent hoses are not damaged or bent  
Check cooling system for leaks, check quantity of antifreeze  
Check exhaust system for leaks and fitment  
Check cables for damage, smooth operation, bends; adjust and lubricate  
Check the fluid level in the master cylinder of the hydraulic clutch  
Clean air filter and filter box  
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Check electric wires for damage and bends  
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Check function of electric systems (emergency OFF switch)  
Check brake fluid level, lining thickness, brake lining  
Check brake lines for damage and leaks  
Check/adjust smooth operation and free travel of handbrake/foot brake lever  
Check the screws and guide bolts on the brake system for a tight fit  
Check shock absorber and fork for leaks and function  
Clean dust bellows  
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Bleed fork legs  
Check swing arm bearings  
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Check/adjust steering head bearings  
Check tightness of all chassis screws (triple clamps, fork leg axle passage  
axle nuts and screws, swing arm bearings, shock absorber)  
Check spoke tension and rim joint  
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Check tires and air pressure  
Check chain, rear sprockets and chain guides for wear, fitment and tension  
Lubricate chain, Clean and grease the adjusting screws on the chain tensioner  
Check clearance of wheel bearings  
The kilometer reading for inspection intervals should not exceed 3 hours.  
Maintenance work performed by your authorized KTM workshop is not a substitute for care and maintenance by the driver!  
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PERIODIC MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE »  
85/105 SX 2007  
IMPORTANT SERVICE WORK THAT MUST BE PERFORMED BY AN AUTHORIZED KTM WORKSHOP  
UNDER A SEPARATE ORDER  
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Clean and adjust carburetor  
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Check the reed-type intake valve for wear  
Check the wear on the clutch disks and length of the clutch springs  
Check the cylinder and piston for wear  
Check function of exhaust control  
Check piston pin bearing  
Replace the crankshaft main bearings  
Replace the conrod bearings  
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Check the entire transmission, the shift mechanism and bearings  
Complete maintenance of fork  
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Complete maintenance of shock absorber  
Clean and grease steering head bearings and gasket elements  
Replace the sealing cup for the foot brake cylinder  
Replace the glass-fiber yarn filling in the silencer  
Treat electric contacts and switches with contact grease  
Change break fluid  
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Change hydraulic clutch fluid  
Change the hydraulic clutch oil  
Note: If the inspection establishes that permissible tolerances are exceeded, the respective components must be replaced.  
85/105 SX 2007  
IMPORTANT CHECKS AND MAINTENANCE TO BE CARRIED OUT BY THE RIDER OR THE MECHANIC  
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Check gear box oil level  
Check brake fluid level  
Check brake pads for wear  
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Lubricate and adjust cables and nipples  
Bleed fork legs regulary  
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Remove and clean dust bellows regularly  
Clean and lubricate chain, check tension and adjust if necessary  
Clean air filter and filter box  
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Check tires for pressure and wear  
Check cooling liquid level  
Check fuel lines for leaks  
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Empty and clean float chamber  
Remove, clean and oil the throttle slide  
Check all control elements for smooth operation  
Check brake performance  
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Treat blank metal parts (with the exception of brake and exhaust systems)  
with wax-based anti corrosion agent  
Check tightness of screws, nuts and hose clamps regularly  
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »  
All maintenance and adjustment operations that are marked with an asterisk * require specialist knowledge. For your own security, let  
these tasks be carried out by a ktm-dealer where your motorcycle will be optimally serviced by appropriately qualified, skilled staff.  
– When cleaning the motorcycle, do not use a high pressure cleaning unit if possible, otherwise water will penetrate the bearings,  
carburetor, electric connectors, etc.  
– When transporting your KTM, ensure that it is held upright with restraining straps or other mechanical fastening devices and that  
the fuel tap is in the OFF position - if the motorcycle should fall over, no fuel can leak from the carburetor or fuel tank  
– Only use special screws with an appropriate thread length supplied by KTM to fix the spoilers on the tank. Using other screws or  
longer screws can cause leaks in the tank through which fuel can flow out.  
– Do not use toothed washers or spring rings with the engine fastening screws, as these work into the frame parts and keep working  
loose. Instead, use self-locking nuts.  
– Let your motorcycle cool down before beginning any maintenance work in order to avoid getting burned.  
– Dispose of Oils, fatty matters, filters, fuels, washing detergents, etc. properly.  
– Under no circumstances may used oil be disposed of in the sewage system or in the open countryside. 1 liter of used oil contam-  
inates 1,000,000 liters of water.  
16  
Checking and adjusting the steering head bearing *  
Check steering head bearing for play periodically. To check, put motorcycle  
on the stand so that the front wheel is off the ground. Now try to move the  
fork forward and backward. For readjusting, loosen the three clamp screws  
[1] of the top triple clamp and turn steering stem bolt [2] clockwise until there  
is no more play. Don’t tighten the steering stem bolt all the way, otherwise  
the bearings will be damaged. With a plastic hammer, lightly rap on the triple  
clamp to release tension. Retighten the three clamp screws to 20 Nm.  
2
If the steering head bearing is not adjusted to be free of play, the motorcycle  
will exhibit unsteady driving characteristics and can get out of control.  
1
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1
If you drive with play in the steering head bearing for longer periods, the bear-  
ings and subsequently the bearing seats in the frame will be destroyed.  
The steering head bearings should be regreased at least once a year  
(i.e. Motorex Long Term 2000).  
Breather plug front fork  
After every 5 hours of use for competitive racing, slacken the breather  
plugs [3] a few turns in order to relieve excess pressure from the inside of the  
fork. To do this, place the motorcycle on a stand with the front wheel lifted  
off the ground.  
Excessive pressure in the interior of the fork can cause leaks in the fork. If  
your fork is leaking, it is recommended to open the breather plugs before hav-  
ing the seals replaced.  
3
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »  
Cleaning the dust sleeves of the telescopic fork  
The dust-protection bellows [1] are to remove dust and coarse dirt particles  
from the fork tube. However, after some time, dirt may also get in behind the  
dust-protection bellows. If this dirt is not removed, the oil sealing rings located  
behind it may start to leak.  
Use a screwdriver to lift the dust-protection bellows out of the outer tubes  
and slide them downward.  
1
Clean dust-protection bellows, outer tubes, and fork tubes thoroughly, and oil  
them thoroughly with oil-spray (Motorex Joker 440) or engine oil. Then, push  
dust-protection bellows into the outer tubes by hand.  
No oil may reach the front tire or the brake disks since this would consider-  
ably reduce the tire's road grip and the braking effect of the front brake.  
17  
How to change the handlebar position  
The handlebar position can be readjusted by 22 mm. Thus, you can put the  
handlebar in the position that is the most convenient for you. The upper triple  
clamp [2] includes 2 bores arranged at a distance of 15 mm (0.6 in) from  
one another. The bores at the handlebar support [3] are offset from the  
center by 3.5 mm (0.13 in). Accordingly, you can mount the handlebar in  
4 different positions.  
For this purpose, remove screws [4] of the handlebar clamps and screws [5]  
of the handlebar support. Position handlebar support, and tighten screws [5]  
to 40 Nm. Mount handlebar and handlebar clamps, and tighten screws [4]  
to 20 Nm. The gap between the handlebar support and handlebar clamps  
should be the same size in the front and in the rear.  
4
5
The screws [5] must be secured with loctite 243.  
3
3,5 mm  
2
Changing the spring preloading of the shock absorber  
The spring preload can be changed by turning the adjusting ring [7]. For this  
purpose, you should dismount the shock absorber and clean it thoroughly.  
NOTE:  
– Before changing the spring preload note down the basic setting, e.g. how  
many threads are visible above the adjusting ring.  
– One rotation of the adjusting ring [6] changes the spring pretension by  
approximately 1.75 mm (0.07 in).  
7
Loosen the clamping screw [7] and use the hook wrench contained in the  
vehicle tool set to turn the adjusting ring as desired. Turning it counterclock-  
wise will reduce the preload, turning it clockwise will increase the  
preload. After readjusting the clamping screw [6], tighten it to 5 Nm (6 ft.lb).  
6
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »  
Basic suspension setup for the weight of the driver  
To achieve maximum handling performance and to prevent the fork, shock  
absorber, swing arm and frame from being damaged, the basic setup of the  
suspension components must be suitable for your child's weight. At delivery,  
the fork and shock absorber are set to accommodate a driver weighing between  
45 and 55 kg (wearing full protective clothing). If your child's weight exceeds  
or falls short of this range, you will need to adjust the spring components accord-  
ingly.  
A
Minor deviations in weight can be compensated by adjusting the spring pre-  
load on the shock absorber. Other springs must be mounted on the fork and  
shock absorber for larger deviations.  
Checking the shock absorber and spring  
You can establish whether or not the shock absorber spring is suitable for your  
child's weight by checking the riding sag. The static sag must be correctly  
adjusted before the riding sag can be determined.  
Determining the static sag of the shock absorber  
The static sag should be between 30 and 35 mm. Larger deviations can strongly  
influence the motorcycle's performance.  
Procedure:  
–
–
Jack up the motorcycle until the rear wheel no longer touches the ground.  
Measure the vertical distance between the rear wheel axle and a fixed point  
(e.g. a mark on the side cover) and write it down as dimension A.  
Place the motorcycle on the ground again.  
18  
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–
–
B
Ask a helper to hold the motorcycle in vertical position.  
Measure the distance between the rear axle and the fixed point again to  
establish dimension B.  
–
The static sag is the difference between dimensions A and B.  
EXAMPLE:  
Motorcycle jacked up (dimension A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .600 mm  
Motorcycle on ground, unloaded (dimension B) . . . . . . . . . . . .– 565 mm  
Static sag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 mm  
If the static sag is lower, the spring preload of the shock absorber must be  
increased, if the static sag is reduced, the spring preload must be higher. See  
chapter "Changing the spring preload of the shock absorber."  
Determining the riding sag of the shock absorber  
–
Have a helper hold the motorcycle. Your child should sit on the bike in a  
normal seating position (feet on the footrests) and bounce up and down  
a few times to allow the rear wheel suspension to become level.  
With your child on the bike, measure the distance between the same two  
points and write it down as dimension C.  
–
–
The riding sag is the difference between dimensions A and C.  
C
EXAMPLE:  
Motorcycle jacked up (dimension A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .600 mm  
Motorcycle on ground, loaded (dimension C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .– 500 mm  
Riding sag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 mm  
The riding sag should lie between 95 and 105 mm.  
If the riding sag is less than 95 mm, the spring is too hard (the spring rate is  
too high). If the riding sag is more than 105 mm, the spring is too soft (the  
spring rate is too low).  
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »  
Overview of the shock absorber springs  
The spring rate is written on the outside of the spring (e.g. 35-215). The type  
number of the shock absorber is embossed on the top.  
Shock absorber  
85/105 SX  
The illustration on the left shows which spring should be installed. The stan-  
dard spring is shown in bold print.  
After installing a different spring, readjust the static sag to 30-35 mm.  
40-215  
35-215  
According to our experience, the damping rate of the compression stage can  
remain unchanged. The damping rate of the rebound stage can be reduced  
by a few clicks for a softer spring or increased by a few clicks for a harder  
spring.  
30-215  
35  
40  
45  
50  
55  
60  
65  
70  
Rider weight inclusive gears in kilogram  
Checking the basic setup of the telescopic fork  
The precise riding sag of the telescopic fork cannot be determined for vari-  
ous reasons. If your telescopic fork bumps frequently (hard end stop during  
compression), you should install harder fork springs to avoid damaging the  
telescopic fork and frame.  
19  
Overview of the telescopic fork springs  
Front fork  
85/105 SX  
If your child weights less than 45 kg or more than 55 kg, have your KTM work-  
shop mount suitable fork springs. The illustration on the left shows the cor-  
rect spring rate. The standard spring is shown in bold print.  
The type number of the telescopic fork is embossed on the inside of the fork leg.  
3,2 N/mm  
3,0 N/mm  
According to our experience, the damping rate of the compression stage can  
remain unchanged. The damping rate of the rebound stage can be reduced by  
a few clicks for a softer spring or increased by a few clicks for a harder spring.  
2,8 N/mm  
40  
35  
45  
50  
55  
60  
65  
70  
Rider weight inclusive gears in kilogram  
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »  
Checking chain tension  
Support the motorcycle on the center stand or side stand, respectively.  
Switch transmission to neutral. Push the chain upwards from the end of the  
chain sliding component until the upper part of the chain is tensioned.  
The distance between the chain and the swing arm should be 5 - 6 cm. The  
lower part of the chain should be tightened. Correct chain tension, if  
necessary!  
5 - 6 cm  
– If the chain is too tight the secondary transmission components (chain,  
sprockets, bearings of the transmission and of the rear wheel) will be put  
under additional strain that can, in addition to premature wear, also cause  
chain breakage.  
– If the chain is not tight enough it can slip off the sprockets and block the  
rear wheel or damage the engine.  
– In both cases the rider is very likely to lose control of the motorcycle.  
A
Correct chain tension  
Loosen collar nut [1], loosen lock nuts [2], and turn right and left adjusting  
screws [3] equally far. Tighten lock nuts.  
2
Before tightening the collar nut, verify that the chain adjusters [4] are sitting  
close to the adjusting screws and that the rear wheel has been aligned with  
the front wheel.  
3
1
Tighten collar nut [1] to 80 Nm (60 ft.lb).  
20  
– If you don’t happen to have a torque wrench at hand, make sure you have  
the tightening torque corrected by a KTM dealer as soon as possible. A  
loose axle may lead to an unstable driving behavior of your motorcycle.  
– Tighten the collar nut with the required torque.  
2
3
NOTE:  
The large adjusting range of the chain adjusters (32mm) allows you to use  
different secondary ratios in combination with the same chain length. The  
chain adjusters [4] can be rotated by 180°.  
4
Always mount the chain tensioner equally aligned.  
Chain maintenance  
For long chain life, good maintenance is very important. The chain should be  
cleaned in fireproof solvent regularly and afterwards treated with hot grease  
or chain spray (Motorex Chainlube 622).  
No lubrication is allowed to reach the rear tire or the brake disks, otherwise  
the road adherence and the rear wheel braking effects would be strongly reduced  
and the motorcycle could easily lose control.  
When mounting the chain masterlink clip, the closed side of the  
masterlink clip must point in running direction.  
Also check sprockets and chain guides for wear, and replace if necessary.  
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »  
General information about KTM disc brakes  
BRAKE CALIPERS:  
If the front brake caliper is removed, the screws must be secured with Loctite  
243 when mounted and tightened to 25 Nm.  
BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIRS:  
The brake fluid reservoirs on front and rear wheel brakes have been  
designed in such a way that even if the brake pads are worn it is not neces-  
sary to top up the brake fluid. If the brake fluid level drops below the mini-  
mum level either the brake system has a leak or the brake pads are completely  
worn. In this case, consult an authorized KTM dealer immediately.  
BRAKE FLUID:  
KTM fills the brake system with ”Motorex Brake Fluid DOT 5.1”, one of the  
best brake fluids currently available. We recommend that you continue to use  
it. DOT 5.1 brake fluid is based on glycol ether and of an amber color. If you  
do not have any DOT 5.1 for refilling, you may use DOT 4 brake fluid. DOT 4  
shown on the lid means minimum standard. However, you should replace it  
as soon as possible by DOT 5.1.  
Have the brake fluid changed at least once annually. If you wash your motor-  
cycle often, the brake fluid should be changed even more frequently. Brake  
fluid tends to absorb water. Therefore, vapor pockets may form in "old" brake  
fluids even at low temperatures, causing the brake system to fail.  
21  
BRAKE DISCS:  
Due to wear, the thickness of the brake disc in the area of the contact  
face [1] of the brake pads decreases. At their thinnest point A, the brake discs  
must not be more than 0.40 mm (0.016 in) thinner than the pad's nominal  
thickness. Measure the nominal thickness in a location B outside the contact  
face. Check wear in several locations.  
A
B
– Brake discs suffering from wear greater than 0.40 mm (0.016 in) consti-  
tute a safety risk. Have the brake discs replaced immediately as soon as  
they reach the wear limit.  
– Have any repairs on the brake system be performed by a KTM dealer.  
1
Adjusting free travel of the hand brake lever  
Free travel of the hand brake lever may be readjusted by using the adjust-  
ment screw [2]. In this way, the position of the point of pressure (i.e. the resist-  
ance you feel on the hand brake lever when the brake pads are  
pressed against the brake disc) can be adjusted for any hand size.  
2
min. 3 mm  
At the hand brake lever, free travel must at least be 3 mm (0.1 in). Only then  
may the piston in the hand brake cylinder be moved (to be recognized by the  
greater resistance of the hand brake lever). If this free travel is not provided,  
pressure will build up in the braking system, and the front-wheel brake may  
fail due to overheating.  
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »  
Checking the brake fluid level/ refilling *  
The brake fluid reservoir is combined with the hand brake cylinder on the  
handlebar. To check the brake fluid level, press the brake pistons back into  
the basic position. Move the hand brake cylinder in a horizontal position, remove  
the screws [1] and the cover [2] with the diaphragm [3]. The brake fluid level  
should be 5 mm below the upper edge of the reservoir (see drawing),  
otherwise add DOT 5.1 brake fluid (e.g. Motorex Brake Fluid DOT 5.1) up to  
5 mm below the upper edge of the reservoir.  
Mount the diaphragm, the cover and the screws and actuate the hand brake  
lever until you feel the point of pressure again. Wipe off any overflowing or  
spilled brake fluid with water.  
1
1
2
3
– Actuate the hand brake lever until you feel the point of pressure again.  
– Never use DOT 5 brake fluid! It is based on silicone oil and of a purple  
color. Seals and brake hoses must be especially adapted to it.  
– Store brake fluid out of reach of children.  
– Brake fluid can cause skin irritation. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. If you  
get brake fluid in your eyes, rinse with plenty of water and consult a doctor.  
5 mm  
– Don’t let brake fluid get in contact with paint, it is an effective paint remover.  
– Use only clean brake fluid taken from a tightly sealed container.  
22  
Checking front brake pads  
Inspect the brake pads from in front of the vehicle. The linings must be at  
least 1 mm (0.04 in) thick.  
min.  
1 mm  
At their most worn point brake pad linings should not be thinner than 1 mm  
(0.04 in), otherwise they could lead to brake failure. For your own safety don’t  
put off having your brake pads changed.  
If the brake pads are replaced too late so that the lining is partly or entirely  
worn, the steel components of the brake pad will rub against the brake disc,  
thereby imparing the braking effect and destroying the brake disc.  
Replacing the front brake pads *  
Remove the front wheel (see front wheel chapter).  
Press brake shoes apart with a suitable screwdriver to put the brake pistons  
in their basic position.  
Remove the lock washer [4] from the screw as well as fixing screw [5] and  
take the brake shoes out of the brake caliper. Clean brake caliper thoroughly  
with compressed air.  
4
5
Mount the right brake shoe and fix with screw. Mount the left brake shoe and  
tighten the screw to 4 Nm. Mount the lock washer. Align brake shoes, mount  
front wheel (see chapter: Mounting the front wheel).  
– It is very important to keep the brake disk free from oil and fatty matters.  
Otherwise, the braking effect would be strongly reduced.  
– After assembly, check if circlips have been fitted correctly.  
– Do not unscrew any other screws on the brake caliper or you will have to  
bleed the brake system.  
– After working on the brake system always operate the hand brake lever to  
apply the brake pads to the brake disk and create a point of pressure.  
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »  
Changing basic position of the brake pedal *  
The basic setting of the foot brake pedal can be changed by turning the end  
stop roller [1]. Using the push rod [2], the free play on the foot brake pedal  
must be set.  
Measured on the outside, the foot brake pedal must have 3-5 mm of free play  
before the push rod can move the piston in the brake cylinder (to be recog-  
nised from the resistance on the foot brake pedal).  
2
If this clearance is missing, pressure accumulates in the braking system and  
the brake pads begin to rub. The braking system overheats and can fail com-  
pletely in extreme cases.  
3-5mm  
1
Checking the rear brake fluid level  
The reservoir for the rear disk brake is on the right side of the motorcycle on  
the rear brake cylinder.  
The brake fluid level may not drop below the upper edge A of the inspection  
glass when the bike is in a horizontal position.  
If the brake fluid level drops below the upper edge of the inspection glass,  
this indicates that the brake system is either leaking or the brake shoes com-  
pletely worn.  
A
23  
Refilling the rear brake fluid reservoir *  
3
Remove the screws [3] and take off the cover [4] and diaphragm [5].The brake  
pistons must be pushed back to their basic position. Fill DOT 5.1 brake fluid  
(e.g. Motorex Brake Fluid DOT 5.1) up to 10 mm (0.4 in) under the upper  
edge of the reservoir.  
4
Remount the diaphragm, cover and screws and actuate the foot brake lever  
until you feel the point of pressure again. Wipe any overflowing or spilled brake  
fluid off with water.  
5
– Actuate the foot brake lever until you feel the point of pressure again.  
– Never use DOT5 brake fluid! It is based on silicone oil and of a purple  
color. Seals and brake hoses must be especially adapted to it.  
– Store brake fluid out of reach of children.  
– Brake fluid can cause skin irritation. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. If you  
get brake fluid in your eyes, rinse with plenty of water and consult a doctor.  
– Don’t let brake fluid get in contact with paint, it is an effective paint remover.  
– Use only clean brake fluid taken from a tightly sealed container.  
Checking rear brake pads  
The brake pads can be inspected from the rear. The thickness of the linings  
may not be less than 1 mm (0.04 in).  
min.  
1 mm  
At their most worn point brake pad linings should not be thinner than 1 mm,  
otherwise they could lead to brake failure. For your own safety don’t put off  
having your brake pads changed.  
If the brake pads are replaced too late so that the lining is partly or entirely  
worn, the steel components of the brake pad will rub against the brake disc,  
thereby imparing the braking effect and destroying the brake disc.  
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »  
Remove the safety device [1], knock out the guide pin [2] from the brake caliper  
with a drift towards the chain wheel and remove the brake pads. Carefully  
clean the brake caliper with compressed air and check the sleeves of the guide  
pins for damage.  
2
1
Press both brake shoes into the brake caliper and fix with bolt [2]. Mount the  
locks [1]. Tighten bolt [2] to 5 Nm (3,7 ft.lb).  
– It is very important to keep the brake disk free from oil and fatty matters.  
Otherwise, the braking effect would be strongly reduced.  
– After assembly, check if circlips have been fitted correctly.  
– After working on the braking system, one must always actuate the hand  
brake lever or foot brake lever, respectively so as to ensure that the brake  
pads will lie against the brake disk and the pressure point is established.  
24  
Dismounting and mounting the front wheel  
To remove the front wheel, jack the motorcycle up on its frame so that the  
front wheel no longer touches the ground.  
Loosen the 2 clamping screws [3] on the left side of the fork fists.  
Loosen and remove the collar nut [4], loosen the clamping screews [5] on the  
right side of the fork fist.  
Hold the front wheel, pull out the wheel spindle [6].  
Carefully remove the front wheel from the fork.  
– Do not operate the hand brake when the front wheel has been dismounted.  
– Make sure the brake disc is always on top when you lay down the wheel,  
otherwise the brake disc can be damaged.  
3
4
To install the front wheel, lift it into the fork, position and mount the axle  
shaft. Mount the collar nut [4], tighten the clamping screws [5] on the right  
fork leg axle passage to prevent the axle shaft from turning and tighten the  
collar nut to 30 Nm (22,14ft.lb).  
Loosen the clamp screws on the right fork leg. Take the motorcycle down from  
its stand. Press the front wheel brakes and push down on the fork a few times  
vigorously so that the fork legs come into alignment.  
6
Only after this has been accomplished, tighten the clamp screws on both fork  
legs with 10Nm (7ft.lbs)  
5
– If you don’t happen to have a torque wrench at hand, make sure you have  
the tightening torque corrected by a KTM dealer as soon as possible. A  
loose axle may lead to an unstable driving behavior of your motorcycle.  
– Tighten the hexagon nut with the required torque. A loose wheel spindle  
may lead to an unstable behavior of your motorcycle.  
– After mounting the front wheel, keep operating the hand brake until the  
pressure point returns.  
– It is very important to keep the brake disk free from oil and fatty matters,  
otherwise the braking effects would be strongly reduced.  
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »  
Dismounting and mounting the rear wheel  
Jack the motorcycle up on its frame so that the rear wheel no longer touches  
the ground.  
Loosen the collar nut [1], remove chain tensioner [2], hold the rear wheel and  
pull out the wheel spindle [3] until the rear wheel is free but the brake caliper  
support is still held.  
Push the rear wheel as far forward as possible, take the chain from the chain  
wheel and carefully take the rear wheel out of the swingarm.  
2
1
– Do not operate the rear brake when the rear wheel has been dismounted.  
– Make sure the brake disc is always on top when you lay down the wheel,  
otherwise the brake disc can be damaged.  
– If the axle is dismounted, clean the thread of the wheel spindle and col-  
lar nut thoroughly and apply a new coat of grease to prevent the thread  
from jamming.  
The rear wheel is remounted in the reverse order. Before tightening the col-  
lar nut to 80 Nm (60 ft.lb), push the rear wheel forwards so that the chain  
tensioners lie on the tension screws.  
– If you don’t happen to have a torque wrench at hand, make sure you have  
the tightening torque corrected by a KTM dealer as soon as possible. A  
loose axle may lead to an unstable driving behavior of your motorcycle.  
– After mounting the rear wheel, keep operating the rear brake until the pres-  
sure point returns.  
– It is very important to keep the brake disk free from oil and fatty matters,  
otherwise the braking effects would be strongly reduced.  
3
25  
– Tighten the collar nut with the required torque. A loose wheel spindle may  
lead to an unstable behavior of your motorcycle.  
Tires, air pressure  
Tire type, tire condition, and air pressure level affect the way your motorcy-  
cle rides, and they must therefore be checked whenever you are getting ready  
to go anywhere on your motorcycle. Tire size can be found in the technical  
specifications. Tire condition has to be checked every time you want to ride  
your motorcycle. Before leaving, check tires for punctures and nails or other  
sharp objects that might have become embedded in them.  
Tire pressure should be checked regularly on a “cold” tire. Proper pressure  
(1.0 bar) ensures optimum driving comfort and extends the life of your tires.  
– Damaged tires must be replaced immediately to protect your youngster.  
– Worn tires can have a negative effect on how the motorcycle performs,  
especially on wet surfaces  
– Tire pressure below the normal level will lead to premature tire wear.  
Checking spoke tension  
The correct spoke tension is very important for the stability of the wheels and  
thus for riding safety. A loose spoke causes the wheel to become unbalanced  
and before long other spokes will have come loose. Check spoke tension, espe-  
cially on a new motorcycle, at regular intervals. For checking, tap on each  
spoke with the blade of a screwdriver (see photo). A clear tone must be the  
result. Dull tones are indicators of loose spokes. If necessary, have the spokes  
retightened and the wheel centered by a KTM dealer.  
– Spokes can tear if you continue to ride with them loose. This may lead to  
an unstable handling of your motorcycle.  
– Excessively tensioned spokes may rupture due to local overloading. The  
spokes must be tensioned to 5 Nm.  
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »  
Cleaning the air filter *  
The air filter must be cleaned prior to each race or whenever dust has  
accumulated. To clean, lift the filter box cover (see illustration) and pull off  
towards the front. Detach the filter retainer [1] at the bottom, tilt to the side  
and remove the air filter [2] and the filter support [3] from the filter box.  
Do not clean the air filter with fuel or petroleum since these will damage the  
foam. KTM recommends the products made by Motorex (Bio Dirt Remover  
and Liquid Bio Power) for air filter maintenance. for cleaning purposes and  
to oil the air filter.  
Thoroughly wash the air filter in special cleaning fluid and allow it to dry well.  
Only press out the filter, do not wring it out under any circumstances. Oil the  
dry air filter with a high-grade filter oil. Also clean the air filter box. Check  
the carburetor collar for damage and that it is filled correctly.  
Mount the air filter on the filter support. Mount the filter together with the  
filter support in the filter box, making sure to center them, and fix them prop-  
erly with the filter holding bracket.  
2
1
26  
3
Exhaust system  
6
The silencer is filled with glass-fiber yarn for damping. When in use, the glass-  
fiber yarn becomes loose or coked with oil carbon. This can lead to a power  
loss and a reduction of the silencer damping. The glass-fiber yarn packing  
can be replaced in a few easy steps.  
7
To replace, remove the silencer from the vehicle and mark the position of the  
outer tube [4] to the inner tube [5]. Remove screws [6] and the end cap [7].  
Pull of the outer tube and remove the old glass-fiber yarn packing [8] from  
the inner tube. Thoroughly clean all parts.  
4
8
To assemble, mount a new glass-fiber yarn packing onto the inner tube (see  
illustration) and slide into the outer tube. Mount end cap and fix with  
screws [6]. Before tightening the screws, turn the outer tube until they match  
the positions you marked. Mount the silencer and check the exhaust system  
for tightness.  
5
Note: Glass fiber yarn packages are offered by your licensed KTM dealer.  
The exhaust system becomes very hot while the motorcycle is running. To avoid  
burns do not start work on the exhaust system until it has properly cooled down.  
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »  
Changing the original position of the clutch lever  
The adjusting screw [1] can be used for individual adjustment of the original  
position of the clutch lever, thus allowing adjustment to an optimal position  
for every hand size.  
Turning the adjusting screw counterclockwise reduces the distance between  
the clutch lever and the handlebar. Turning the adjusting screw clockwise  
increases the distance between the clutch lever and the handlebar.  
1
Adjustment of the clutch lever position is only possible within certain limits.  
Only turn the adjusting screw manually and never apply excessive force.  
Checking the oil level of the hydraulic clutch  
To check the oil level in the master cylinder of the clutch remove the cover.  
For this purpose, remove screws [2] and cover [3] together with the rubber  
boot [4]. The oil level in the horizontal-standing master cylinder should be  
4 mm below the upper edge.  
If necessary, add SAE 10 biodegradable hydraulic oil (Motorex clutch fluid  
75), available from your authorized KTM workshop.  
3
4
2
KTM uses biodegradable hydraulic oil for the hydraulic clutch  
control. Never mix biodegradable hydraulic oils with mineral oils. Never refill  
with mineral hydraulic oil or brake fluid.  
27  
Bleeding of the hydraulic clutch  
To bleed, the cover of the master cylinder of the clutch needs to be  
removed. For this purpose, remove screws [2] and take off the cover [3]  
together with the rubber bellows [4]. At the slave cylinder of the clutch, remove  
the bleeder nipple [5]. In its place, mount the bleeder syringe [6] which is  
filled with SAE 10 hydraulic oil. Refill oil, until oil is discharged from the  
bore [7] of the master cylinder in a bubble-free state. Make sure that the oil  
does not overflow. The bleeder syringe can be purchased from your KTM  
dealer.Having completed the bleeding procedure, you have to verify that the  
oil level in the master cylinder is correct.If necessary, fill up with  
biodegradable hydraulic oil SAE 10 (e.g. Motorex Clutchfluid 75).  
6
5
Biodegradable hydraulic oil is available from your KTM dealer (50ml).  
KTM uses biodegradable hydraulic oil for the hydraulic clutch control. Never  
mix biodegradable hydraulic oils with mineral oils.  
Always use biodegradable hydraulic oil SAE 10 (e.g. Motorex Clutchfluid 75) to  
fill up the master cylinder. Never refill with mineral hydraulic oil or brake fluid.  
7
Adjusting the throttle cable*  
3-5 mm  
10  
There must always be a 3-5 mm (0.1-0.2 in) play in the throttle cable. To  
check this, move back the protective cover [8] on the throttle grip. You must  
be able to lift the outer covering of the cable 3-5 mm from the adjusting screw  
[9] until resistance is felt.  
To adjust, loosen the counternut [10] and turn the adjusting screw accord-  
ingly. Finally tighten the counternut and slide the protective cover back on.  
9
To check the correctness of this setting, start the engine, turn the  
handlebar left and right, in both cases as far as it will go. This must not cause  
any changes in idling speed. Otherwise, you will have to increase the  
backlash of the throttle cable.  
8
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »  
Cooling system  
The water pump [1] in the engine keeps the cooling liquid in circulation.  
The cooling liquid is cooled by the air stream. Therefore, the cooling effect  
is reduced when the traveling speed is reduced. Dirty radiators additionally  
reduce the cooling effect.  
The cooling liquid can be drained by removing the screw [2] on the water-  
pump cover.  
1
– If possible, always check level of cooling liquid when the engine is cold. If  
you have to open the radiator cap [3] when the engine is hot, use a rag to  
cover the cap and open slowly to release pressure. Caution - scalding hazard.  
– Do not detach any radiator hoses while the engine is hot. The escaping  
hot coolant and the steam may cause serious burns.  
2
– In case you get burnt, hold the affected part of your body under running  
cold water right away.  
– Coolant is toxic. Keep the coolant out of the reach of children.  
– In case coolant is ingested, consult a doctor immediately.  
– If coolant gets into your eyes, rinse them out with water immediately and  
consult doctor.  
3
A mixture of 50% antifreeze liquid and 50% water is used as coolant.  
However, the antifreeze protection must be at least -25° C (-13° F). This mix-  
ture offers antifreeze protection but also good corrosion protection and should  
therefore not be replaced by pure water.  
28  
For the cooling system, use only with high-grade antifreeze (Motorex Anti-Freeze).  
Using lower-grade antifreeze agents can cause corrosion and coolant foaming.  
Pressure induced by heating of the coolant in the system is controlled by a  
valve in the radiator cap [3]; a water temperature rising up to 120° C  
(248° F) is admissible, without fear of problems.  
Checking coolant level  
The coolant should be 10 mm (0.4 in) above the radiator fins when the engine  
is cold (see illustr.). In the event of the coolant being drained, always fill and  
bleed the system.  
10 mm  
when engine is cold  
If possible, always check the level of cooling liquid when the engine is cold.  
If you have to open the radiator cap when the engine is hot, use a rag to cover  
the cap and open slowly to release pressure.  
The cooling system must be bled after draining the cooling liquid or after adding  
more than 0.25 l (0.06 US gallons) cooling liquid.  
5
Refilling/Bleeding the cooling system  
The cooling system must be bled as described below after draining the  
cooling liquid or after adding more than 0.25 l (0.06 US gallons) cooling  
liquid.  
Make sure that the drain screw [4] is fastened.  
Pour approx. 0.5 litres (0.13 US gallons) coolant into the system.  
Remove the screw [5] on the right radiator.  
Now add cooling liquid until it emerges free of bubbles at the right radiator.  
Then immediately mount the screw so that no more air can enter the right  
radiator.  
4
Top up the left radiator until the coolant can be seen approx. 10 mm  
(0.4 in) above the radiator fins.  
Check the coolant level again after a short ride.  
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »  
Carburetor adjustment *  
Basic information on the original carburetor setting  
The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient  
temperature of approx. 20° C (68° F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95).  
Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 .  
Basic information of changing the carburetor setting  
Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and  
an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes  
to other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance.  
RULE OF THUMB: high altitude or high temperatures →  
choose leaner carburetor adjustment  
choose richer carburetor adjustment  
low altitude or low temperatures →  
– Only use unleaded fuel with at least RON 95 (USA = Premium RON 91), mixed with high grade two-stroke oil. Other types of gaso-  
line can cause engine failure, and their use will void your warranty.  
– Only use high-grade 2-stroke engine oil of known brands (e. g. Motorex Cross Power 2T).  
– Do not use premixed two-stroke oils, oils for outboard engines or normal engine oil to prepare the mixture.  
– Not enough oil or low-grade oil can cause erosion of the piston. If you use too much oil, the engine can start smoking and foul the  
spark plug.  
– In the case of a leaner adjustment of the carburetor proceed cautiously. Always reduce the jet size in steps of one number to avoid  
overheating and piston seizure.  
NOTE: If the engine does not run properly, despite a changed adjustment look for mechanical faults and check the ignition system.  
Basic information on carburetor wear:  
Engine vibrations subject the throttle slide, jet needle, float needle valve and the needle jet to extreme wear. Wear leads to malfunctio-  
ning of the carburetor (e.g. over-enrichment). These parts should be replaced after 100 operating hours. The carburetor body, main  
jet holder and the float support should be replaced after 200 operating hours.  
29  
Idling range A  
Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the position  
of the air control screw [1] and the air control screw [2]. Only make adjust-  
ments when the engine is hot.  
To this end, slightly increase the idling speed of the engine by means of the  
air control screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turn-  
ing the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Create a round  
and stable engine speed using the air control screw (basic position of the air  
control screw = open by 1.5 turns). Then adjust to the normal idling speed  
by means of the air control screw.  
Opening up – B  
2
Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the  
throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and  
part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully  
opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high  
engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level  
too high or the float needle is leaking.  
1
Part-throttle range – C  
Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the  
jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is  
controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the  
upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power  
when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be  
lowered by one notch. If the engine pings, especially when accelerating under  
full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised.  
If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a  
four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust  
the idling range richer.  
main jet  
D
C
jet needle  
jet needle  
Full throttle range – D  
Operation with the throttle fully open (flat out). This range is influenced by  
the main jet and the jet needle. If the porcelain of the new spark plug is found  
to have a very bright or white coating or if the engine rings, after a short dis-  
tance of riding flat out, a larger main jet is required. If the porcelain is dark  
brown or black with soot the main jet must be replaced by a smaller one.  
idling jet  
B
throttle valve  
A
idling jet  
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »  
Draining the float chamber of the carburetor  
Following every wet-cleaning procedure, the float chamber of the  
carburetor should be drained in order to remove any water that may have  
penetrated into it. Water in the float chamber leads to engine malfunction.  
Make sure you do this while the engine is cold. Close the fuel tap and place  
a cloth under the carburetor which is capable of absorbing the leaking fuel.  
Unscrew the plug [1] and clean it with compressed air. Then, mount the plug  
together with the gasket and tighten to 4 Nm, open fuel tap, and check the  
float chamber for leaks.  
1
Fuel is easily flammable and toxic. When handling fuel, be sure to exercise  
the utmost caution. Never perform any work on the fuel system near of open  
flames or burning cigarettes. Always allow the engine to cool off first.  
Immediately clean up any fuel which may have been spilled. Materials satu-  
rated with fuel are also easily flammable. In case you ingested fuel or fuel  
splashed into your eyes, consult a doctor immediately.  
Dispose of the fuel properly!  
30  
Checking gear oil level  
To check the gear oil, warm up the engine to operating temperature with a  
low load and place the motorcycle on an even surface. Remove the oil drain  
plug [2] and allow the gear oil to drain into a vessel. Clean the sealing area,  
mount the oil drain plug and gasket and tighten to 15 Nm.  
Remove the oil filler screw [4] and add 0.5 liters of gear oil (e.g. Motorex  
Topspeed 4T 15W50). Mount the oil filler screw and check the engine for  
leaks.  
2
If the gear oil is still clean you can continue to use it up to your next service.  
– too little oil or a poor oil quality will cause the transmission to wear pre-  
maturely. Only use brand-name oils.  
– due to a change in the fluid capacities the inspection screw [3] can no  
longer be used.  
Engines and engine oil are extremely hot at operating temperatures - be care-  
ful not to burn yourself.  
3
Changing gear oil *  
Before changing the gear oil warm up the engine and park the motorcycle on  
a horizontal surface. Remove the oil drain plug [2] and drain the used oil into  
an appropriate container. Clean the sealing surface. Mount the oil drain plug  
together with its gasket and tighten to 15 Nm.  
Remove the filler plug [4] and add 0.5 l gear oil (e.g. Motorex Topspeed 4T  
15W50). Mount the filler plug and check the engine for leaks.  
– too little oil or a poor oil quality will cause the transmission to wear pre-  
maturely. Only use brand-name oils.  
– due to a change in the fluid capacities the inspection screw [3] can no  
longer be used.  
4
Engines and engine oil are extremely hot at operating temperatures - be care-  
ful not to burn yourself.  
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TROUBLE SHOOTING »  
If you let the specified maintenance work on your motorcycle be carried out, disturbances can hardly be expected. Should an error  
occur nevertheless, we advise you to use the trouble shooting chart in order to find the cause of error.  
We would like to point out that many operations cannot be performed by oneself. In case of uncertainty, please contact a KTM-dealer.  
TROUBLE  
CAUSE  
REMEDY  
Engine fails to start  
Operating error  
Open fuel tap, replenish fuel, do not use choke  
The motorcycle was not driven The highly inflammable components in modern fuels volatilize if left  
for a longer period of time, standing for longer periods of time. If the motorcycle has not been  
leaving old fuel in the float used for over 1 week, the fuel should be drained from the float cham-  
chamber  
ber. The engine will start up immediately if the float chamber is  
filled with fresh, ignitable fuel  
Fuel supply interrupted  
Close fuel tap, loosen fuel hose at carburettor, lead into a basin and  
open fuel tap,  
– if fuel leaks out, clean carburettor  
– if no fuel leaks out, check tank ventilation, i.e. clean fuel tap  
Electrode distance too great  
Reduce electrode distance (0.60 mm)  
Plug fouled by oil, wet or bridged Clean spark plug or renew  
Ignition wire or spark plug con- Dismount spark plug, connect ignition cable, hold to ground (blank  
nector damaged  
place on engine) and actuate kickstarter, a strong spark must be  
produced at the spark plug  
– If no spark is produced, loosen spark plug cap from ignition  
cable, hold about 5 mm from ground and actuate kickstarter  
– If a spark now occurs, replace spark plug cap  
31  
– If no spark is produced, control ignition system  
Kill button wire or short-circuit Disconnect black coloured cable from short circuit button at  
switch faulty  
ignition coil and check ignition spark. If the spark is O.K. repair  
defective part of cable or ignition switch  
Loose ignition cable connectors Inspect cable connectors  
Spark too weak Examine ignition system  
Water in the carburetor and jets Dismantle and clean carburetor  
blocked  
Engine without idle running  
Idle adjusting screw out of Readjust idle running or replace idle adjusting screw  
adjustment  
Ignition system damaged  
Wear  
Examine ignition system  
Overhaul engine  
Engine has not enough power Charred glass fiber yarn in Renew filling  
silencer  
Air filter obstructed  
Clean or renew airfilter  
Fuel supply partly interrupted Blow through fuel pipe and clean carburetor  
or blocked  
Loss of compression through Tighten spark plug  
loose spark plug  
Exhaust system damaged  
Check exhaust system for damage  
Engine has not enough preignition Check and adjust ignition  
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TROUBLE SHOOTING »  
TROUBLE  
CAUSE  
REMEDY  
Engine has not enough power Reed paddles tensionless or Replace reed paddles or reed valve housing  
damaged, surface of reed valve  
housing damaged  
Wear  
Overhaul engine  
Engine revs not up and running Carburetor overflows if level Clean carburetor, if necessary replace float needle and adjust level  
in four stroke cycle  
High rpm misfiring  
adjust too high, float needle seat-  
ing is dirty or enlarged  
Loose carburetor jets  
Tighten jets  
Incorrect heat range spark plug Refer to technical data section  
or low quality spark plug  
Loose, corroded or non conduc- Check and seal with silicon  
tive ignition socket connector  
Engine spluters into the carburetor Lack of fuel  
Clean fuel pipes, examine tank aeration and clean  
Spark plug with incorrect heat Fit correct spark plug  
value (Ignition by incandescence)  
Engine takes air out of control Check intake flange and carburettor if firmly setted  
Engine overheating  
Insufficient liquid in cooling Top up coolant and bleed cooling system check cooling system for  
system  
leaks  
32  
Radiator fins clogged  
Frothing in cooling system  
Clean radiatar fins with water jet  
Renew coolant using branded anti-freeze/anti-corrosive (Motorex  
Anti-Freeze)  
Pinched or kinked water hoses Replace with correct routed hoses  
Incorrect ignition timing because Readjust to correct ignition timing specifications, secure screws with  
of loose stator screws  
Loctite 243  
Incorrect compression ratio  
Measure and adjust compression ratio  
Emission of white smoke (steam) Cylinder head or O-ring of cylin- Check cylinder head, replace O-ring  
der head gasket leaks  
Excessive oil escapes from trans- Excessive oil quantity in trans- Correct transmission oil level  
mission breather tube  
mission  
Water in transmission oil  
Shaft seal ring of the water pump Replace shaft seal ring of the water pump.  
defect  
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CLEANING »  
Clean your motorcycle regularly in order to keep its painted finish looking shiny and new.  
The best manner would be to use warm water that has been mixed with a commercially available washing detergent and a sponge. The  
hard dirt can be removed before with the help of a soft water jet.  
Never clean your motorcycle with a high-pressured cleaner or a high-pressured water jet. otherwise the water might run into the elec-  
trical components, connectors, sheathed cables, bearings, carburetor etc. and cause mailfunctions, i.e., lead to the premature destruc-  
tion of these parts.  
– You should use commercially available detergents to clean the motorcycle. Heavily soiled parts should also be cleaned with the help  
of a paint brush.  
– Before cleaning with water, plug the exhaust pipe to prevent water ingress.  
– After the motorcycle has been rinsed with a soft water jet, it should be dried by air pressure and a cloth. Then take a short drive  
until the engine has reached its operating temperature, and also operate the brakes. The heat also causes the water at the inac  
cessible parts of the engine and the brakes to evaporate.  
– Slide back the protective covers on the handlebar-mounted instruments so that any water that may have seeped into this part of the  
motorcycle is allowed to evaporate.  
– After the motorcycle has cooled down, oil and grease all the gliding bearing parts. Also treat the chain with a chain spray.  
– To prevent failures in the electric system, you should treat the short circuit button with a contact spray.  
33  
STORAGE »  
If you want to put your motorcycle away for longer periods of time, please observe the following instructions:  
– Clean motorcycle thoroughly (see chapter: CLEANING)  
– Change engine oil (old engine oil contains aggressive contaminations).  
– Check antifreeze and amount of cooling liquid.  
– Let the engine warm up again, close fuel tap and wait until the engine dies off by itself. In this way, the carburetor jets are  
prevented from becoming resin-clogged by the old fuel.  
– Remove spark plug and fill in approx. 5 ccm of engine oil into the cylinder through the opening. Actuate kickstarter 10 times in  
order to distribute the oil onto the cylinder walls and mount the spark plug.  
– Let fuel flow out of tank into an appropriate basin.  
– Correct tire pressure.  
– Lubricate bearing points of the control levers, footrests, etc. as well as the chain.  
– The storage place should be dry and not be subjected to overly great temperature fluctuations.  
– Cover the motorcycle with an air permeable tarpaulin or blanket. Do not use airtight materials, as possible humidity might not be  
able to escape and thereby cause corrosion.  
It would be very bad to let the engine run for a short time during the storage period. The engine would not get warmed up enough and  
the thus developed steam would condense during the combustion process and cause the exhaust to rust.  
Use after period of storage  
– Fill up tank with fresh fuel.  
– Check motorcycle as before each start (see driving instructions).  
– Take a short, careful test ride first.  
NOTE: Before you put your motorcycle away for the winter, you should check all parts for their function and wear. Should any  
service jobs, repairs, or any refitting be necessary, you should have them carried out during the off-season (lower workload at  
mechanics' shops). This way, you can avoid the long waiting times at your shop at the beginning of the next biking season.  
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – CHASSIS 85/105 SX 2007»  
CHASSIS  
85 SX (17”/14”)  
85/105 SX (19”/16”)  
Frame  
Central chrome-moly-steel frame  
telescopic fork WP Suspension 4357 MXMA  
275 mm / 300 mm (10.82/11.81 in)  
Fork  
Wheel travel front/rear  
Rear suspension  
Front brake  
WP PDS 4618 (Progressive Damping System) shock absorber  
Disc brake Ø 220 mm (8.66 in), 4 piston  
Rear brake  
Disc brake Ø 200 mm (7.87 in), 4 piston  
Tires front  
70/100-17“ Pirelli NHS 40 M  
90/100-14“ Pirelli NHS 49  
1.0 bar  
70/100-19“ Pirelli NHS 42M  
Tires rear  
90/100-16“ Pirelli NHS 51  
Air pressure  
Fuel tank capacity  
Final drive ratio  
Chain  
5.1 liter  
14 : 46 t  
14 : 49 t  
1/2 x 5/16" 122 rolls  
66 °  
Steering angle  
Wheel base  
1290 mm  
Seat height, unloaded  
Ground clearance  
Dead weight without fuel  
Rider’s body weight  
Recommended age of rider  
Engine  
865 mm  
900 mm  
415 mm  
68 kg  
385 mm  
66 kg  
max. 75 kg  
10 to 15 years  
CR-85  
34  
STANDARD ADJUSTMENT – FORK  
STANDARD ADJUSTMENT - SHOCK ABSORBER  
WP 4618 PDS-DCC  
WP 4357 MXMA  
05187C05  
WP 15187C02  
15 LS (LOW SPEED)  
Compression adjuster  
Rebound adjuster  
Spring  
20  
Compression adjuster  
20  
2 HS (HIGH SPEED)  
Rebound adjuster  
Spring  
22  
3 N/mm  
3 mm  
110 mm  
SAE 5  
Spring preload  
Air chamber length  
Fork oil  
35-215  
7 MM  
Spring preload  
TIGHTENING TORQUES - CHASSIS  
Hexagon bolt - brake caliper front  
Allan head screw - brake pads rear  
Flat head bolt - brake discs  
Hexagon nut - front wheel spindle  
Hexagon nut - rear wheel spindle  
Hexagon nut - swingarm bolt  
Clamping bolts - top triple clamp  
Clamping bolts - bottom triple clamp  
Bolt - handlebar clamp  
M 8  
Loctite 243 + 25 Nm  
5 Nm  
M6  
M6  
Loctite 243 + 14 Nm  
40 Nm  
M 10x 1.5  
M 20x1.5  
M 14/M 16x1.5  
M 8  
80 Nm  
75 Nm  
20 Nm  
M 8  
15 Nm  
M 8  
20 Nm  
Spoke nipple  
M 4,5  
5.0 Nm  
M6  
M8  
M10  
10 Nm  
25 Nm  
45 Nm  
Other chassis bolts  
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - ENGINE 85/105 SX 2007»  
ENGINE  
85 SX  
105 SX  
Design  
Liquid cooled single cylinder two-stroke engine with reed valve intake  
Displacement  
Bore/stroke  
Fuel  
84.93 ccm  
103.96 ccm  
47 / 48.95 mm  
52 / 48.95 mm  
unleaded fuel with at least RON 95 (USA = Premium RON 91), mixed with high grade two-stroke oil  
1 : 40 - 1 : 60 when using high grade two-stroke oil (e.g. Motorex 2T Crosspower),  
when in doubt, please contact your importer  
Oil/gasoline ratio  
Lubrication  
mixture lubrication  
Crankshaft bearing  
deep-groove ball bearing, cylinder roller bearing  
Connecting rod bearing needle bearing  
Piston pin bearing  
Piston rings  
Primary drive  
Clutch  
needle bearing  
1 compression ring  
straight cut spur gears, 19 : 66 t  
multiple disc clutch in oil bath, hydraulic operated (Motorex Kupplungs-Fluid 75)  
6 speed, claw actuated  
Transmission  
1st gear 11 : 29  
2nd gear 14 : 28  
3rd gear 16 : 26  
4th gear 19 : 26  
5th gear 21 : 25  
6th gear 20 : 21  
Gear ratio  
35  
Transmission oil  
Ignition system  
Spark plug  
Electrode gap  
Carburetor  
0.5 liter engine oil Motorex Topspeed 4T 15W50  
Moric Digital 2M1  
NGK BR 9 EVX  
0.60 mm  
flat-slide carburetor, carburetor see table  
1 liter, mixture 50% antifreeze, 50% distilled water, at least –25° C (-13° F)  
wet foam type air filter insert  
Coolant  
Air filter  
BASIC CARBURETOR SETTING  
Carburetor  
Keihin PWK 28  
Main jet  
118  
2.6  
45  
Needle jet  
Idling jet  
Jet needle  
N5HG  
III  
Needle position from top  
Throttle valve  
3.5  
62  
Starting jet  
Air adjustment screw open  
1,5  
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - ENGINE 85/105 SX 2007»  
TIGHTENING TORQUES - ENGINE  
Flange bolts - cylinder-head  
Nuts-cylinder base  
Flywheel collar nut  
Primary gear bolt  
Nut for inner clutch hub  
Crankcase and cover bolts  
Spark plug  
M 6  
10 Nm  
M 8  
30 Nm  
M 12X1  
M 10X1,25  
M 14X1,25  
M 6  
60 Nm  
Loctite 243 + 80 Nm  
Loctite 243 + 60 Nm  
8 Nm  
M 14X1,25  
M 14X1,5  
M 6  
20 Nm  
Reed valve housing  
Kickstarter  
75 Nm  
6 Nm  
Shift lever  
M 6  
Loctite 243 + 12 Nm  
Loctite 243 + 12 Nm  
Swingarm pivot  
M 6  
M 5  
M 6  
6 Nm  
Other bolts  
10 Nm  
36  
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CARBURETOR SETTING »  
VERGASERREGULIERUNG  
CARBURETOR SETTING  
85/105 SX 2007  
KEIHIN PWK 28  
MEERESHÖHE  
ALTITUDE  
TEMPERATUR  
TEMPERATURE  
- 20°C bis -7°C - 6°C bis 5°C  
6°C bis 15°C 16°C bis 24°C 25°C bis 38°C  
-2°F to 20°F  
19°F to 41°F  
42°F to 60°F  
61°F to 78°F  
79°F to 98°F  
LSO  
LD  
ASO  
IJ  
1,5  
45  
1,75  
42  
2
40  
2,25  
38  
2,5  
38  
3000 m  
10000 ft  
NADEL NEEDLE  
N5HG  
2
N5HH  
3
N5HH  
2
N5HH  
1
N5HH  
1
POS  
HD  
POS  
MJ  
2301 m  
7501 ft  
118  
115  
115  
115  
115  
LSO  
LD  
ASO  
IJ  
1,25  
48  
1,5  
45  
1,75  
42  
2
40  
2,25  
38  
2300 m  
7500 ft  
NADEL NEEDLE  
N5HG  
3
N5HG  
2
N5HH  
3
N5HH  
2
N5HH  
1
POS  
HD  
POS  
MJ  
1501 m  
5001 ft  
120  
118  
115  
115  
115  
LSO  
LD  
ASO  
IJ  
1
50  
1,25  
48  
1,5  
45  
1,75  
42  
2
40  
1500 m  
5000 ft  
NADEL NEEDLE  
N5HF  
3
N5HG  
3
N5HG  
2
N5HH  
2
N5HH  
2
37  
POS  
HD  
POS  
MJ  
751 m  
2501 ft  
122  
120  
118  
115  
115  
LSO  
LD  
ASO  
IJ  
0,75  
50  
1
50  
1,25  
48  
1,5  
45  
1,75  
42  
750 m  
2500 ft  
NADEL NEEDLE  
N5HF  
4
N5HF  
3
N5HG  
3
N5HG  
3
118  
N5HH  
2
POS  
HD  
POS  
MJ  
301 m  
1001 ft  
125  
122  
120  
115  
LSO  
LD  
ASO  
IJ  
0,5  
50  
0,75  
50  
1
50  
1,25  
48  
1,5  
45  
300 m  
1000 ft  
NADEL NEEDLE  
N5HF  
5
N5HF  
4
N5HG  
3
N5HG  
3
N5HG  
2
POS  
HD  
POS  
MJ  
Meeresniveau  
Sea level  
125  
125  
122  
120  
118  
LSO = Luftregulierschraube offen  
LD = Leerlaufdüse  
POS = Nadel Clip Position von oben  
HD = Hauptdüse  
ASO = Air screw open from fully-seated  
IJ = Idling jet  
POS = Needle clip position from top  
MJ = Main jet  
1
3
2
4
5
NICHT FÜR STRASSENBETRIEB  
NOT FOR HIGHWAY USE  
Kraftstoff: Super Bleifrei ROZ 95  
Fuel: unleaded fuel with at least RON 95  
USA = Premium PON 91  
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HEAD WORD INDEX »  
Page  
Page  
Exhaust system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26  
Filler cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7  
Foot brake pedal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8  
Fuel tap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7  
General information about KTM disc brakes . . . . . . . .21  
General tips and warnings for starting the motorcycle .10  
Hand brake lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6  
How to change the handlebar position . . . . . . . . . . . .17  
Important information for parents about safe driving . . .4  
Instructions for the first ride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10  
Kickstarter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8  
Maintenance work on chassis and engine . . . . . . . . . .16  
Operation instruments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6  
Overview of the shock absorber springs . . . . . . . . . . .19  
Overview of the telescopic fork springs . . . . . . . . . . .19  
Periodic maintenance schedule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14  
Plugin- Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8  
Rebound damping function of the shock absorber . . . .9  
Rebound damping of fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8  
Refilling the rear brake fluid reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . .23  
Refilling/Bleeding the cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . .28  
Refueling, fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13  
Replacing the front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22  
Running in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10  
Serial number locations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6  
Shift lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7  
Shifting/Riding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12  
Short circuit button . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7  
Standard high-speed setting: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9  
Standard low-speed setting: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9  
Starting off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12  
Starting when the engine is cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12  
Starting when the engine is warm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12  
Stopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13  
Storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33  
Technical Specifications – Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34  
Technical specifications - engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35  
Tires, air pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25  
Trouble shooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31  
Use after period of storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33  
What to do when the engine is “flooded“ . . . . . . . . . .12  
What you should check before each start . . . . . . . . . .11  
Adjusting free travel of the hand brake lever . . . . . . .21  
Adjusting the throttle cable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27  
Basic suspension setup for the weight of the driver . . .18  
Bleeding of the hydraulic clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27  
Braking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13  
Breather plug front fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16  
Carburetor adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29  
Carburetor setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37  
Chain maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20  
Changing basic position of the brake pedal . . . . . . . .23  
Changing gear oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30  
Changing the original position of the clutch lever . . . .27  
Changing the spring preloading of the shock absorber .17  
Chassis number . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6  
Checking and adjusting the steering head bearing . . .16  
Checking chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20  
Checking coolant level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28  
Checking front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22  
Checking gear oil level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30  
Checking rear brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23  
Checking spoke tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25  
Checking the basic setup of the telescopic fork . . . . .19  
Checking the brake fluid level/ refilling . . . . . . . . . . .22  
Checking the oil level of the hydraulic clutch . . . . . . .27  
Checking the rear brake fluid level . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23  
Checking the shock absorber and spring . . . . . . . . . .18  
Choke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7  
Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33  
Cleaning the air filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26  
Cleaning the dust sleeves of the telescopic fork . . . . .17  
Clutch lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6  
Compression damping of fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8  
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28  
Correct chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20  
Damping action during compression of shock absorber .9  
Determining the riding sag of the shock absorber . . . .18  
Determining the static sag of the shock absorber . . . .18  
Dismounting and mounting the front wheel . . . . . . . .24  
Dismounting and mounting the rear wheel . . . . . . . . .25  
Draining the float chamber of the carburetor . . . . . . .30  
Driving instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11  
Engine number . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6  
38  
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39  
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40  
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KTM Group Partner  
KTM-Sportmotorcycle AG  
A–5230 Mattighofen  
www.ktm.at  
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