Jet Tools Saw J 3410 User Manual

Operating Instructions and Parts Manual  
7x12 Cut-off Band Saw  
Models: J-3410, J-3410-2  
Model J-3410 shown  
WMH TOOL GROUP, Inc.  
427 New Sanford Road  
LaVergne, Tennessee 30786  
Ph.: 800-274-6848  
Part No. M-414454  
Revision A1 3/09  
Copyright © 2009 WMH Tool Group, Inc.  
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Table of Contents  
Cover Page .......................................................................................................................... 1  
Warranty................................................................................................................................ 2  
Table of Contents .................................................................................................................. 3  
General Specifications .......................................................................................................... 4  
Warnings............................................................................................................................ 5-6  
Using the Vise.................................................................................................................... 7-9  
Setting Blade Guides ............................................................................................................ 9  
Hydraulic Feed Control........................................................................................................ 10  
Using Stock Stop................................................................................................................. 10  
Changing Blade Speeds ..................................................................................................... 11  
Blade Selection................................................................................................................... 11  
Evaluating Cutting Eficiency ................................................................................................ 11  
Blade Break-in Procedures ................................................................................................. 11  
Starting a Cut ...................................................................................................................... 11  
Angle Cuts ..................................................................................................................... 12-13  
Replacing Blades................................................................................................................ 14  
Adjusting Blade Tracking..................................................................................................... 14  
BladeAlignmentAdjustments .............................................................................................. 15  
When toAdjust Blade Guides .............................................................................................. 15  
Replacing Blade Guides and Support Components............................................................. 16  
Adjust Blade for Parallelism ................................................................................................ 16  
Adjusting Blade Vertical ...................................................................................................... 17  
Test Cutting to VerifyAdjustmentAccuracy........................................................................... 17  
Adjusting Guide Bearings.................................................................................................... 18  
Replacing Guide Bearings .................................................................................................. 18  
Adjusting Blade Back Up Bearing ....................................................................................... 18  
Replacing the Drive Wheel .................................................................................................. 19  
Installing the Vertical Sawing Table ...................................................................................... 19  
Replacing Idler Wheel or Bearings ...................................................................................... 19  
Servicing the Hydraulic Control Cylinder .............................................................................. 20  
Machine Set-up ................................................................................................................... 21  
Uncrating and Spotting the Saw........................................................................................... 21  
Electrical ............................................................................................................................. 21  
Changing Operating Voltage ............................................................................................... 21  
Installing the Coolant Kit ...................................................................................................... 22  
Chip Brush Replacement .................................................................................................... 22  
Adjusting Horizontal Stop and Motor Switch......................................................................... 22  
To Replace orAdjust the Horizontal Stop ............................................................................. 22  
Adjusting the Motor SwitchActuator..................................................................................... 22  
Troubleshooting.............................................................................................................. 23-24  
Replacement Parts and Breakdowns ............................................................................. 25-30  
3
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General  
Specifications  
Model  
Stock Number  
J-3410  
J-3410-2  
414454  
414455  
The J-3410 and J-3410-2 come equipped with a cool-  
ant system which can greatly extend blade life and speed  
the cutting of a variety of materials which are best cut with  
cutting fluids and coolants.  
The JET Models J-3410 and J-3410-2 cut-off band  
saws are designed for high production cut-off work. Four  
cutting speeds and a hydraulic feed control allows the effi-  
cient cutting of virtually any material.  
A removable table also allows the saw to function as  
a vertical band saw.  
Specifications:  
7 in. (178mm) round bar stock or tubing  
9 1/2 in. wide x 7 in. high (240 x 178mm) rectangular stock  
Cutting capacity  
12 in. wide x 1 in. high (305 x 25.4mm) flat stock  
3 3/4 in. wide x 6 in. high (95.3 x 150mm) at 45 degree angle  
80, 130, 180 and 265 SFM -- belt selectable  
Heat treated steel worm pinion driving a bronze  
worm ring gear in an oil bath  
4
Blade speeds  
Blade drive  
3/4 HP, 1725 RPM, 115/230V, single phase, capacitor start  
Side: Eccentric shaft with sealed ball bearings  
Rear: Sealed ball bearing  
Motor  
Blade guides  
Blade size  
3/4 x .032 x 93 in.  
Blade wheels  
Dimensions (LWH)  
Weight  
11 7/16 in. (280.56mm) diameter flanged cast iron  
50 x 18 x 41 in. (1270 x 457 x 1041mm) in lowered position  
275 lbs. (125kg)  
Wet cutting package  
1 gallon (4.4L) capacity tank with 3GPM (13L/M) pump -- Optional wet kit  
Part No. 5635500 includes tank with baffle, pump 120V/240V, hoses,  
flexible nozzle, shut-off valve and required electrics. This kit is delivered  
installed on Model J-3410 saws.  
Vertical saw operation  
Table size (LW)  
9 1/2 x 10 in. (241 x 254mm)  
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- Misuse of this machine can cause serious injury.  
- For safety, machine must be set up, used and serviced  
properly.  
- Read, understand and follow instructions in the  
operator’s and parts manual which was shipped with  
your machine.  
When setting up machine:  
- Always avoid using machine in damp or poorly lighted  
work areas.  
- Always be sure machine is securely anchored to the  
floor.  
- Always keep machine guards in place.  
- Always put start switch in OFF“ position before  
plugging in machine.  
- Always shut off the machine when not in use.  
When servicing machine:  
- Always unplug machine from electrical power while  
servicing.  
- Always follow instructions in operators and parts  
manual when changing accessory tools or parts.  
- Never modify the machine without consulting JET  
Corporation.  
You — the stationary power tool user — hold the  
key to safety.  
Read and follow these simple rules for best  
results and full benefits from your machine. Used  
properly, JET ’s machinery is among the best in design  
and safety. However, any machine used improperly  
can be rendered inefficient and unsafe. It is absolutely  
mandatory that those who use our products be  
properly trained in how to use them correctly. They  
should read and understand the Operators and Parts  
Manual as well as all labels affixed to the machine.  
Failure in following all of these warnings can cause  
serious injuries.  
When using machine:  
- Never operate with machine guards missing.  
- Always wear safety glasses with side shields (See  
ANSI Z87.1)  
- Never wear loose clothing or jewelry.  
- Never overreach — you may slip and fall into the  
machine.  
- Never leave machine running while away from it.  
Machinery general safety warnings  
1. Always wear protective eye wear when operating  
9. Maintain all machine tools with care. Follow all  
machinery. Eye wear shall be impact resistant, protective  
safety glasses with side shields which comply with ANSI  
Z87.1 specifications. Use of eye wear which does not  
comply with ANSI Z87.1 specifications could result in  
severe injury from breakage of eye protection.  
2. Wear proper apparel. No loose clothing or  
jewelry which can get caught in moving parts. Rubber  
soled footwear is recommended for best footing.  
3. Do not overreach. Failure to maintain proper  
working position can cause you to fall into the machine or  
cause your clothing to get caught — pulling you into the  
machine.  
4. Keep guards in place and in proper working  
order. Do not operate the machine with guards removed.  
5. Avoid dangerous working environments. Do not  
use stationary machine tools in wet or damp locations.  
Keep work areas clean and well lit. Special electrics  
should be used when working on flammable materials.  
6. Avoid accidental starts by being sure the start  
switch is OFF” before plugging in the machine.  
7. Never leave the machine running while unat-  
tended. Machine shall be shut off whenever it is not in  
operation.  
maintenance instructions for lubricating and the changing  
of accessories. No attempt shall be made to modify or  
have makeshift repairs done to the machine. This not  
only voids the warranty but also renders the machine  
unsafe.  
10. Machinery must be anchored to the floor.  
11. Secure work. Use clamps or a vise to hold work,  
when practical. It is safer than using your hands and it  
frees both hands to operate the machine.  
12. Never brush away chips while the machine is in  
operation.  
5
13. Keep work area clean. Cluttered areas invite  
accidents.  
14. Remove adjusting keys and wrenches before  
turning machine on.  
15. Use the right tool. Don't force a tool or attach-  
ment to do a job it was not designed for.  
16. Use only recommended accessories and follow  
manufacturers instructions pertaining to them.  
17. Keep hands in sight and clear of all moving  
parts and cutting surfaces.  
18. All visitors should be kept at a safe distance  
from the work area. Make workshop completely safe by  
using padlocks, master switches, or by removing starter  
keys.  
8. Disconnect electrical power before servicing.  
Whenever changing accessories or general maintenance  
is done on the machine, electrical power to the machine  
must be disconnected before work is done.  
19. Know the tool you are using — its application,  
limitations, and potential hazards.  
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General Electrical Cautions  
20.Some dust created by power sanding, sawing,  
grinding, drilling and other construction activities  
contains chemicals known to cause cancer, birth  
defects or other reproductive harm. Some examples of  
these chemicals are:  
This saw should be grounded in accordance with  
the National Electrical Code and local codes and  
ordinances. This work should be done by a qualified  
electrician. The saw should be grounded to protect the  
user from electrical shock.  
Lead from lead based paint  
crystalline silica from bricks and cement and other  
masonry products, and  
Wire sizes  
Caution: for circuits which are far away from the  
electrical service box, the wire size must be increased  
in order to deliver ample voltage to the motor. To  
minimize power losses and to prevent motor overheat-  
ing and burnout, the use of wire sizes for branch  
circuits or electrical extension cords according to the  
following table is recommended:  
arsenic and chromium from chemically-treated  
lumber.  
21.Your risk from those exposures varies, depend-  
ing on how often you do this type of work. To reduce your  
exposure to these chemicals: work in a well ventilated  
area, and work with approved safety equipment, such as  
those dust masks that are specifically designed to filter  
out microscopic particles.  
AWG (American wire gauge) number  
Conductor length  
240 volt lines  
No. 14  
120 volt lines  
No. 14  
0-50 feet  
50-100 feet  
Over 100 feet  
No. 14  
No. 12  
No. 12  
No. 8  
Safety instructions on sawing systems  
1. Always wear leather gloves when handling  
saw blade. The operator shall not wear gloves when  
operating the machine.  
close as possible to the work piece.  
9. Always wear protective eye wear when  
operating, servicing or adjusting machinery. Eyewear  
shall be impact resistant, protective safety glasses with  
side shields complying with ANSI Z87.1 specifications.  
Use of eye wear which does not comply with ANSI  
Z87.1 specifications could result in severe injury from  
breakage of eye protection. See figure B.  
10. Non-slip footwear and safety shoes are  
recommended. See figure C.  
11. Wear ear protectors (plugs or muffs) during  
extended periods of operation. See figure D.  
12. The workpiece, or part being sawed, must be  
securely clamped before the saw blade enters it.  
13. Remove cut off pieces carefully, keeping  
hands away from sawblade.  
2. All doors shall be closed, all panels replaced,  
and all other safety guards in place prior to the machine  
being started or operated.  
3. Be sure that the blade is not in contact with the  
workpiece when the motor is started. The motor shall  
be started and you should allow the saw to come to full  
speed before bringing the workpiece into the saw blade.  
4. Keep hands away from the blade area. See  
figure A.  
5. Remove any cut off piece carefully while  
keeping your hands free of the blade area.  
6. Saw must be stopped and electrical supply  
must be cut off before any blade replacement or  
adjustment of blade support mechanism is done, or  
before any attempt is made to change the drive belts or  
before any periodic service or maintenance is per-  
formed on the saw.  
6
14. Saw must be stopped and electrical supply  
cut off or machine unplugged before reaching into  
cutting area.  
15. Avoid contact with coolant, especially  
guarding your eyes.  
7. Remove all loose items and any unnecessary  
work pieces from the area before starting machine.  
8. Bring adjustable saw guides and guards as  
B
D
C
A
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Operating Instructions  
The jaw closest to the left hand side of the table is  
the locking jaw. This jaw clamps the workpiece against the  
stationary jaw to hold it securely for cutting. The locking  
jaw can pivot to conform to the angle of the work piece  
which is held in the stationary jaw.  
Before cutting can begin, the vise must be properly  
set and positioned. The procedures are different for right  
angle cutting and for angle cutting. Setting procedures are  
given in the following sections.  
Using the vise  
The vise on the saw table has two jaws. The jaw  
closest to the right hand side of the table is the stationary  
jaw. This jaw is firmly secured to the table using its pivot  
and lock bolts. When making a straight cut the stationary  
jaw is at right angles to the saw blade. When making an  
angle cut, the stationary jaw is first loosened, then  
adjusted to the desired angle, then secured to the table,  
again.  
Figure 1: Vise jaw nomenclature  
Locking vise jaw  
sively, use the nut under the quick release handle to  
tighten the shaft slightly so the jaw slides easily, but flat  
against the saw table.  
The locking jaw is an assembly which includes the  
lead screw nut which encases the lead screw, the lead  
screw shaft (which screws into the lead screw nut,) the  
thrust shaft, spring, and quick release handle.  
The thrust shaft moves up or down when the quick  
release handle moves up or down.  
7
The locking vise jaw is tightened or loosened against  
the workpiece being cut by using the lead screw handle.  
The handle is attached to a lead screw underneath the saw  
table. The lead screw has a series of grooves on its  
length. These grooves capture a thrust shaft on the lower  
side of the locking jaw. As the lead screw handle is turned,  
the grooves move to the left or right, and therefore the  
locking jaw is moved to the left or right to open or close the  
jaw against any workpiece on the table.  
The thrust shaft on the locking vise jaw is a compo-  
nent part of the quick release handle on top of the locking  
jaw. This quick release handle is spring loaded to force the  
handle (and, therefore, the thrust shaft) downward.  
When you pull up on the quick release handle, the  
thrust shaft is removed from its groove. This allows you to  
slide the jaw to a new position on the table. Releasing the  
handle pushes the thrust shaft against the lead screw  
shaft. When the lead screw handle is turned, a groove will  
The thrust shaft has a nut under the quick release  
handle which adjusts the clamping pressure between the  
adjustable jaw and the table, itself. When this nut is too  
tight, the adjustable jaw cannot pivot. When this nut is too  
loose, the jaw can pivot, and also tilt upward. Therefore,  
this nut should be slightly loose. This will allow the jaw to  
pivot an conform to any angle at which the stationary jaw  
is set.  
However, you should guard against excessive  
loosening of this nut. If too loose, the jaw can tilt when it  
contacts the workpiece and full clamping pressure cannot  
be effectively applied to the workpiece.  
If the shaft is too tight to allow pivoting of the jaw,  
loosen the shaft slightly by turning the nut under the quick  
release handle counterclockwise. If the jaw tilts exces-  
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eventually catch the thrust shaft and allow you to open or  
close the locking jaw at its new lead screw position.  
When you slide the jaw to a new position, you can  
see where the nearest lead screw groove is by looking  
through the slot above the lead screw. (See Figure 1.)  
Adjusting stationary jaw:  
straight cuts  
For accurate right angle or "straight" cutting, adjust  
the vise as follows:  
1. Disconnect the saw from its electrical power source to  
prevent accidental start-ups.  
2. With the saw arm and blade in horizontal position,  
place a machinist's square against the blade and station-  
ary vise jaw. (See Figure 2.)  
Changing the locking  
jaw location:  
1. Lift the quick release handle.  
2. Slide the jaw until it contacts the workpiece.  
3. Turn the lead screw handle until the thrust shaft drops  
into a groove.  
3. If the vise jaw is not square to the blade, loosen both  
the pivot and lock bolts shown in Figure 1, and adjust the  
jaw until it is square.  
4. Further turning of the lead screw handle will either  
clamp or release the workpiece in the vise. Turn  
clockwise to increase clamping pressure. Turn  
counterclockwise to release clamping pressure.  
4. Tighten the pivot and lock bolts.  
5. Reconnect electrical power to the saw.  
Stationary vise jaw  
The stationary vise jaw pivots on the pivot bolt,  
Figure 1, and is locked at any required angle by the lock  
bolt.  
There are two different table positions for the  
stationary vise jaw. One position is used for right angle  
cuts ("straight" cutting) and the other position is used for  
cutting of all other angles. Moving the vise from one  
position to the other requires unbolting and re-bolting the  
jaw to the saw table.  
Figure 2: Setting the stationary jaw at right angles to the  
saw blade.  
Four tapped holes in the saw table allow a change  
of pivot and lock bolt position. The holes in the right-most  
position closest to the motor are used for right angle  
cutting. The holes in the left-most position are used for all  
angle cutting.  
Adjusting stationary jaw:  
angle cuts  
The angle of the stationary vise jaw with respect to  
the saw blade is what determines the cut angle on the  
workpiece. The stationary jaw can be adjusted to any  
angle between 0 degrees (right angle to the blade) and 45  
degrees.  
In order to cut angles, however, it will be necessary  
for you to move the stationary vise jaw to its left-most set  
of attachment holes as described in the following sections.  
After placing the jaw in the angle cutting position,  
you can adjust to the desired cutting angle using one of  
the two following methods.  
Changing the stationary  
vise jaw position:  
8
1. Remove the pivot and lock bolts.  
2. Slide the stationary jaw to the required position on the  
table.  
3. Re-insert the pivot and lock bolts.  
4. Adjust stationary jaw angle according to requirements  
for straight or angle cuts, then tighten both bolts securely.  
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Adjusting angles with the  
scale on the saw table  
There is a scale on the rear of the saw base which  
can be used to establish the angle of cut.  
1. Raise the saw arm to full height and lock it in position  
with the quick shut-off valve.  
2. Slide the locking jaw to full open position.  
3. Loosen the pivot and lock bolts shown in Figure 1.  
4. Lay a straight edge on the saw frame so it contacts the  
stationary vise jaw. (See Figure 3.)  
5. Turn the vise jaw until the straight edge is above the  
angle of cut you require as shown on the angle gauge.  
6. Tighten both the pivot and lock bolts.  
7. Remove the straight edge and proceed to cut as  
described in Angle sawing.  
Figure 4: Using a protractor to set jaw angle  
Setting the blade guides  
Figure 3: Using table scale to set jaw for angle cuts  
To produce accurate cuts the distance between the  
blade guide/supports must be set correctly. Whenever  
possible, set the blade guide assembly so it clears the  
workpiece by approximately 1/8 inch on either side of the  
workpiece.  
Adjusting stationary jaw for  
high accuracy angle cutting:  
The guides may be moved by loosening the lock  
handles which secure the bracket bars to the saw arm.  
There is, however, a limit to how close the guide can  
be set with respect to the table. When set too close to the  
blade clearance slot, the guide bearings can hit the table  
casting and prevent the arm from moving to full horizontal.  
When this happens, the saw cannot complete its cut.  
This won't be a problem with the right-hand guide.  
On the other hand, the left-hand guide typically cannot be  
much closer to the right-hand guide than 6 inches or so.  
Therefore, when cutting smaller section material, be sure  
the blade is correctly adjusted, tensioned properly, sharp,  
and appropriate to the type of material being cut.  
9
1. Raise the saw arm to full height and lock it in position  
with the shut-off valve.  
2. Open the vise to full width.  
3. Loosen the pivot and lock bolts shown in Figure 1.  
4. Open the shut-off valve and lower the saw arm until it  
is at full horizontal position.  
5. Take a machinist's protractor and set it to the angle you  
need to cut.  
6. Lay the protractor on the saw table and place one  
edge of the protractor against the saw blade and the other  
edge against the stationary vise jaw. (Figure 4.)  
7. Adjust the stationary vise jaw until its angle is correct  
with respect to the blade, then lock the stationary jaw  
firmly using the pivot and lock bolts.  
The saw is now accurately set to the exact angle  
you have set on the machinist's protractor. You can now  
saw the workpieces according to instructions on Angle  
sawing.  
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Controlling the cut:  
Using the stock stop  
for repeated cuts  
Hydraulic feed control  
The weight of the saw arm typically provides all of  
the force needed to move the saw blade through the  
workpiece. In fact, if the full weight of the arm is allowed  
to make the cut, rapid blade wear and poor cutting  
accuracy will result. Therefore, a hydraulic feed control is  
provided which gives the operator control over the speed  
and efficiency of cutting.  
If you are cutting multiple pieces of stock, all to the  
same specified length, use the stock stop.  
1. Lower the saw arm to its horizontal position.  
2. Loosen the stock stop set screws as necessary to slide  
the stop upward and more-or-less into position.  
(There are two set screws which are use to lock the stop  
stock in position. One is on the saw table and is typically  
used to adjust the distance between the stop and the  
blade. The other set screw is on the stop, itself, and is  
typically used to adjust the height of the stop above the  
table. However, you can use any combination of set  
screws you find convenient to adjust the stop to the  
distance and height which works for the stock you are  
cutting.)  
The hydraulic feed control is a single-acting  
hydraulic cylinder attached between the saw base and  
saw arm. The hydraulic control cylinder has two flow  
controls. The control needle valve -- used by the operator  
to control the rate of cutting -- is on top of the cylinder. A  
quick shut-off valve is located in a hydraulic line on the  
outside of the cylinder.  
The control cylinder is single-acting because it can  
be used to resist motion in the downward direction, only.  
The control cylinder offers no resistance to upward  
movement.  
The amount of downward force can be controlled by  
using the needle valve on top of the cylinder. When the  
needle valve is closed the cylinder is "locked." With the  
needle valve open slightly, the cylinder permits slow, or  
light downward force. As the needle valve is opened  
further, increasing weight of the saw arm presses on the  
blade and workpiece.  
The needle valve is opened, during any cut, until the  
operator determines that the saw is operating efficiently.  
This is usually evaluated by observing chip formation.  
See the section on Blade Selection, for more information  
on evaluating cutting efficiency.  
3. Using a ruler or scale, measure the distance between  
the blade and stock stop.  
4. When the correct cut-off distance is obtained, be sure  
the stock stop is at a position which allows the cutoff  
piece to fall away from the blade as the cut is completed.  
Then, tighten the stock stop set screws securely.  
5. Raise the saw arm.  
6. Place a workpiece in the saw vise and slide the  
workpiece so it contacts the stock stop.  
7. Open the hydraulic control cylinder quick shut off valve  
and move the saw blade to just above the workpiece -  
then close the needle valve so the arm is locked in  
position.  
8. Measure the distance between the end of the  
workpiece and the blade to verify that you have set the  
stock stop at the correct distance. (See Figure 6.)  
9. When you are satisfied that your cut-off distance is  
correct, you may begin cutting by turning on the saw and  
opening the needle valve until the blade is cutting  
efficiently.  
The quarter-turn quick shut off valve in the external  
line of the control cylinder can be turned to lock the  
cylinder at any time. For instance, it can be used to lock  
the blade above the work piece to allow you to measure  
the length of cut on the workpiece. Or, it can be used for  
making repeated cuts after the needle valve has been set  
for best cutting efficiency. (This is described in the next  
section.)  
To continue making multiple cuts take the following steps:  
To close the hydraulic control circuit and lock the  
cylinder, turn the quick shut off valve handle so it is at  
right angles to the hydraulic line or hydraulic cylinder.  
To open the hydraulic control circuit and return feed  
control to the needle valve, turn the quick shut off handle  
so it is parallel with the hydraulic line or hydraulic cylinder.  
1. Do not change the setting on the needle valve.  
2. Raise the saw arm so it clears the stock being cut and  
lock the hydraulic control cylinder using the quick shut off  
valve.  
3. Release the vise slightly using the handle wheel --  
move the stock up to the stock stop -- tighten the vise  
again.  
10  
4. Turn on the saw and open the quick shut off valve.  
Because you established an efficient cutting rate on the  
previous cuts using the needle valve, there is no reason to  
change its setting. The quick shut off, alone, can be used  
to begin and complete the cut.  
Figure 6: Using the stock stop  
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Changing blade speeds  
Evaluating cutting efficiency  
Is the blade cutting efficiently? The best way to  
determine this is to observe the chips formed by the  
cutting blade.  
The ModelsJ-3410 and J-3410-2 are 4-speed cut-  
off saws. The different speeds are obtained by changing  
the position of the drive V-belt which connects the motor  
pulley to the drivewheel gearbox pulley.  
If the chip formation is powdery, then the feed is  
much too light, or the blade is too dull.  
If the chips formed are curled, but colored -- that is,  
either blue or straw colored from heat generated during  
the cut -- then the feed rate is too high.  
To change blade speeds:  
If the chips are slightly curled and are not colored by  
heat -- the blade is sufficiently sharp and is cutting at its  
most efficient rate.  
1. Disconnect the saw from its electrical power source to  
prevent any possibility of accidental motor start-up.  
2. Allow the saw arm to rest at its full horizontal position.  
3. Open the pulley cover to expose the V-belt and  
pulleys.  
4. Loosen the motor plate lock bolt jam nut and lock bolt.  
5. Loosen the jam nuts on the motor plate adjustment  
bolts, then loosen the motor plate adjustment bolts so the  
motor can slide on its mounting plate to where the V-belt  
can be removed from the pulleys.  
6. Put the V-belt in the pulley position for the speed you  
require --- refer to Figure 7 for belt locations and speeds  
available.  
7. Tension the belt by adjusting the motor adjustment  
bolts until the V-belt has one belt's width of slack when  
pressed firmly in the center of its travel.  
8. Reverse steps 1 through 5, above, to complete the  
speed change.  
Blade break-in procedures  
New blades are very sharp and, therefore, have a  
tooth geometry which is easily damaged if a careful break-  
in procedure is not followed. You may want to consult  
manufacturers' literature for break-in of specific blades on  
specific materials. However, the following procedure will  
be adequate for break-in of JET supplied blades on  
lower alloy ferrous materials.  
1. Clamp a round section work piece in the vise. The  
work piece should be 2 inches or larger in diameter.  
2. With the saw on low speed, begin the cut with a very  
light feed rate.  
3. After the saw has completed 1/3rd of the cut, increase  
the feed rate slightly and allow the saw to complete the  
cut.  
265 SFM  
180 SFM  
130 SFM  
80 SFM  
4. Without disturbing the position of the needle valve,  
begin a second cut on the same or similar work piece.  
5. After the blade has completed about 1/3rd of the cut,  
increase the rate of feed and observe chip formation until  
cutting is at its most efficient rate (see Evaluating blade  
efficiency, above) ...then allow the saw to complete the  
cut. The blade can now be considered ready for regular  
service.  
Gearbox  
Motor  
Figure 7: Belt position/speed relationships  
Starting a cut  
11  
To avoid blade damage, follow these procedures:  
1. Never start a cut with the blade resting on the  
workpiece.  
Blade selection  
The saw is delivered with a blade adequate for a  
variety of cut-off jobs on a variety of common materials.  
JET also can provide you with other blades. See the parts  
listings for available blade types. See Table 1, for some  
recommended speeds for various materials. However,  
these selections, while appropriate to the many of shop  
cutting needs, don't begin to exhaust the wide variety of  
blades of special configuration (tooth pitch and set) and  
special alloys for cutting unusual or exotic materials.  
For very high production on cutting of special  
2. Never start a cut on a sharp edge. If the workpiece  
has a sharp edge, use a file to knock off the sharp edge  
before lowering the blade onto the workpiece.  
3. Have the motor on and running at full speed before  
cutting.  
4. Use the hydraulic control cylinder needle valve to  
begin the cut of any single piece (although succeeding  
pieces of the same type can be started using the quick  
shut off valve.)  
materials, or to cut hard-to-cut materials such as stainless  
steel, tool steel, titanium, etc., you can ask your industrial  
distributor for more specific blade recommendations.  
Also, the supplier who provides the workpiece material  
should be prepared to provide you with very specific  
instructions regarding the best blade (and coolant or  
cutting fluid, if needed) for the material or shape supplied.  
5. If you use coolant or cutting fluid, turn on the flow of  
coolant before starting a cut.  
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Right angle cuts --  
single pieces of stock  
Angle cutting  
1. Raise the saw arm to full height and lock it in position  
with the quick shut off valve.  
2. Slide the vise open.  
1. Raise the saw arm to its full up, open position.  
2. Pull up on the quick release handle on the locking vise  
jaw and slide the vise jaws apart.  
3. Set the stationary vise jaw to the angle required  
according to the instructions in Adjusting stationary vise  
jaw.  
3. Place the stock on the saw table, between the vise  
jaws. If the stock is long, support the stock with  
appropriate infeed and outfeed supports.  
4. Pull up on the quick release handle and slide the  
locking vise jaw up against the workpiece.  
5. Turn the lead screw handle until the quick release  
thrust shaft falls into a groove on the lead screw and puts  
light clamping pressure on the workpiece.  
4. Put the workpiece in position on the saw table.  
5. Adjust the locking vise jaw to the workpiece using  
instructions in Adjusting the locking jaw.  
6. Adjust the blade guide/support bearing brackets  
according to instructions in Setting the blade guides.  
7. Release the quick shut off valve and lower the arm and  
blade to just above the workpiece, then lock the arm in  
position using the hydraulic cylinder control needle valve.  
8. Adjust the workpiece to the required cut-off position  
under the blade.  
6. Lower the saw arm until the blade is just above the  
workpiece.  
7. Lock the saw arm in position by turning the hydraulic  
feed needle valve clockwise.  
8. Adjust the position of the stock until the cut-off distance  
you require is directly under the blade.  
9. Tighten the vise securely.  
10. If you are starting your cut on a sharp edge, use a  
file to knock off the sharp edge so the blade isn't damaged  
at the start of the cut.  
9. Tighten the vise so the workpiece is clamped firmly.  
11. If using coolant or cutting fluid, turn on valve at the  
nozzle.  
Note: if you are sawing a workpiece with a sharp  
edge up -- use a file to knock off the sharp edge before  
beginning any saw cuts. This will prevent damage to  
teeth on the blade. See Figure 8 for details.  
12. Turn the saw switch ON.  
13. Open the hydraulic cylinder needle valve until the  
blade contacts the workpiece and establishes a cut -- then  
open the control cylinder valve until the blade is cutting  
efficiently.  
10. Turn the saw switch ON and allow the motor and  
blade to come up to full speed.  
11. If using a coolant system, turn on the valve at the  
nozzle.  
14. When the cut is completed the motor will turn off and  
the cut piece will fall away from the saw. Turn off the  
coolant flow and repeat the steps above as necessary to  
continue with more cuts.  
12. Carefully open the hydraulic control needle valve open  
(counterclockwise) so the cutting arm lowers gently into  
the workpiece and begins cutting.  
Note: the stock stop can be used for multiple angle cuts in  
the same way as described for straight cuts. See Using  
the stock stop for repeated cuts.  
13. Continue to open the hydraulic control valve until an  
efficient cutting rate is established.  
14. When the saw completes its cut, the motor will shut  
off and the cut piece will fall away from the table.  
15. If you are using a coolant system, turn it off the valve  
at the nozzle.  
Material  
Speed  
Structural steel shapes  
Low carbon steel  
Medium carbon steel  
High carbon steel  
Cr-moly steel  
Ni-Cr-moly steel  
Chromium steel  
Cr-vanadium steel  
Tool steel  
Stainless steel  
Free machining steel  
Cast iron  
Copper alloy (CU-Zm)  
Bronze  
165  
160-165  
115  
12  
90-100  
105-135  
90-115  
80-140  
105-115  
40-80  
40-70  
80-100  
55-90  
55  
90  
40  
40-45  
25-40  
80-160  
Table 1: Suggested cutting speeds  
Suggested cutting speeds for a variety of materials.  
Speeds are recommended speeds for a 4 inch thick work  
piece, a bi-metal blade, dry cutting. (No cutting fluid.  
Speeds may be increased when cutting fluid is used --  
observe chip formation to determine most efficient cutting  
rate.)  
Decrease these speeds 30-50% for carbon steel blades.  
Increase speed 15% for materials 1/4 inch thick, 12% for  
materials 3/4 inch thick, 10% for materials 1 1/4 inch thick,  
and 5% for 2 1/2 inch thick material. Decrease speed  
12% when cutting eight inch material. When selecting  
blade tooth pitch, be sure to have two or more teeth in  
contact with the material at all times to avoid tooth  
breakage.  
Al-bronze  
Monel  
Titanium alloy  
Aluminum (T-6+)  
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Figure 8: Placing workpieces in the vise  
13  
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To adjust blade tracking:  
Maintenance  
1. Loosen the sliding plate draw block bolt slightly so the  
adjustment set screw will be able to move the draw block.  
2. Turn the coolant pump switch OFF, if coolant is used.  
3. Turn the saw ON.  
Replacing blades  
1. Disconnect the saw from its electrical power source to  
prevent accidental start-ups.  
4. Insert a 4mm hex wrench in the socket head track  
adjustment set screw.  
2. Raise the saw arm to its full vertical position and lock it  
in place using the quick shut off valve on the hydraulic  
control cylinder.  
3. Lift the safety cover in the lower portion of the blade  
guard door by sliding it upward. There is no need to  
remove it completely from its slot.  
4. Remove the two screws with plastic knobs which hold  
the blade guard door closed and swing the door open to  
expose the drive and idler wheels, and the blade.  
5. Turn the blade tension handle counterclockwise until  
the blade hangs loose in the saw arm.  
6. Use leather gloves to prevent cuts and scratches and  
use protective eyewear which meets ANSI Specification  
Z87.1. and pull the blade off of the drive wheels and out of  
the blade guides. Store the blade carefully before  
proceeding.  
5. Turn the track adjustment set screw so the blade starts  
to move away from the shoulder -- then immediately turn  
the screw the other direction so the blade stops -- then  
moves slowly toward the shoulder.  
6. Use the blade tracking adjustment screw to stop the  
motion of the blade on the wheel as it gets close to the  
shoulder. Now, put a strip of paper between the blade and  
wheel as shown in Figure 9. KEEP FINGERS CLEAR OF  
THE BLADE AND WHEEL. (That's why the paper strip  
should be at least 6 inches long.)  
7. The paper should not be cut, this first attempt. Next,  
turn the track adjustment set screw a tiny amount more  
and repeat the insertion of the paper between the blade  
and wheel.  
You may have to repeat this step several times before the  
blade and shoulder cut the paper into two pieces. Don't  
be in a hurry. Patience and accuracy here will pay off with  
better, more accurate, quieter cutting and much longer  
machine and blade life.  
7. Slide the new blade into the blade guides -- then loop  
the blade over the upper and lower drive wheels.  
Note: it is possible to install the blade backwards. The  
teeth on the blade should be pointing downward, toward  
the motor, at the time the blade is installed.  
8. When the paper is cut, turn the adjustment screw  
counterclockwise, slightly. This assures that the blade is  
not touching the shoulder of the wheel.  
8. Push the blade so it is seated against the shoulders of  
the wheels. When it is seated against the shoulders...  
9. ...turn the blade tension wheel clockwise to increase  
tension on the blade. Don't over-tension the blade.  
Tension it enough so it doesn't slip while cutting.  
10. When you are satisfied that the saw is tensioned  
correctly, reconnect the saw to its electrical power source.  
11. Check the tracking of the blade according to  
instructions in the section on Adjusting blade tracking,  
below.  
9. Tighten the two bolts which hold the draw block.  
12. Close the wheel guard door and secure it using the  
two plastic knobbed screws.  
13. Slide the safety cover downward in its slot until it is  
fully closed.  
14  
14. The new blade is installed and ready for the Blade  
break-in procedures.  
Adjusting blade tracking  
If the blade is fully tensioned, release tension  
slightly before attempting to adjust the saw blade tracking.  
A badly worn or bent blade will be extremely difficult to  
track properly -- if it can be tracked successfully, at all.  
The track of the saw blade is adjusted using the track  
adjustment mechanism on the idler wheel. The track  
adjustment tilts the wheel to "steer" the blade on the  
wheels. Tracking adjustment is performed with the saw  
arm in vertical position, blade guard doors open and the  
saw running. Therefore, USE EXTREME CAUTION  
WHEN PERFORMING BLADE TRACKING CHECKS AND  
ADJUSTMENTS.  
Figure 9: Inserting the paper strips between the blade  
and wheel to adjust blade-to-shoulder clearance  
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Blade alignment adjustments When to adjust the  
The blade can suffer from several out-of-adjustment  
conditions. These conditions are shown in Figure 10.  
blade guides  
The blade guides, when installed at the factory,  
have been adjusted for maximum sawing effectiveness  
and, if not disturbed, damaged or worn, should require no  
field adjustment other than moving the guide brackets as  
needed to clear the workpieces being sawed.  
However, if the components get out of alignment or  
need replacement the following instructions give you the  
complete method for adjusting the system.  
In particular, there five planes, angles or clearances  
which need to be considered.  
1. The blade must run parallel to the saw blade clearance  
slot. (See Figure 10.)  
2. The blade must be square with the vise jaws. (See  
Figure 2.)  
3. The blade must the vertical and square with respect to  
the saw table and must not be twisted. (See Figure 10.)  
4. The guide bearings must provide the correct side  
clearance and support for the blade.  
Figure 10: Blade alignment fault conditions  
Establishing a reference surface for blade adjustment  
So long as major changes and adjustments to the  
blade guide system are not made, you will not have to  
perform the following procedure. However, assuming the  
"worst possible case" -- someone dismantles all of the  
guides and components -- here is how to determine a  
baseline reference surface for subsequent blade guide  
system adjustments.  
5. The blade back-up bearing must be correctly placed  
behind the blade.  
As we say, so long as no component relationships  
are disturbed, the factory settings should be adequate to  
your tasks. However, parts wear or damage does occur.  
When parts are replaced, adjustment of the blade  
positioning will almost certainly be necessary.  
Of course, regardless of whether or not a compo-  
nent has been disturbed or replaced, at any time you are  
not getting the cutting action or accuracy you expect, or  
whenever the troubleshooting chart recommends it, you  
can and should check the blade support components.  
1. Disconnect the saw from its electrical power source to  
prevent accidental start-ups.  
2. Be sure the blade is fully tensioned and in good  
condition. Use of a new blade is best for this operation.  
3. Remove the blade guide, brackets, and all blade  
guiding and supporting components which normally  
capture and guide the blade at the cutting postion.  
4. Lower the saw arm to full horizontal position.  
5. Place a machinists square against the blade and  
adjust the stationary vise jaw so it is at right angles to the  
blade.  
6. You have established a reference surface at the  
stationary vise face. All subsequent adjustments of blade  
parallelism and vertical can be made using the stationary  
vise face or the saw table.  
15  
Figure 11: Nomenclature for blade guide assembly and its  
components  
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parallel to the stationary jaw, no further parallelism  
adjustment is required. However, if the blade is at an  
angle to the jaw, determine which bearing set you are  
going to move and the direction in which you need to  
move it. Then proceed to the following steps.  
4. Keep the bearing eccentric from moving by putting a  
wrench on the adjustment tang of the eccentric. (See  
Figure 12.)  
5. Loosen the eccentric lock nut so you can rotate the  
eccentric using the adjustment tang.  
6. Turn the eccentric until you have shifted the bearing  
assembly to where you want it to move.  
Replacing blade guide  
and support components  
All component parts are secured with nuts, bolts,  
washers, or snap rings. To remove and replace any  
component, first remove the blade according to instruc-  
tions in Replacing blades. Then remove and replace the  
faulty component(s).  
The guide and support bearings are mounted on  
eccentric shafts to permit adjustment of the bearing axis.  
See Figure 11. By loosening the eccentric lock nuts and  
using a wrench to turn the eccentric, all clearances and  
positions can be adjusted.  
7. Tighten the eccentric lock nut.  
8. Adjust the bearing on the other side of the blade so the  
bearing clearance adjustment is correct. YOU MUST  
PERFORM THIS STEP. The blade is being twisted by the  
bearing assemblies and a lot of pressure is being exerted  
by the blade against the bearings. See Adjusting guide  
bearings.  
9. Check the blade for squareness and vertical and re-  
adjust as necessary until it is parallel to the clearance slot,  
square to the vise jaw, vertical to the table, with side guide  
bearings correctly adjusted.  
Replacing a blade guide bearing is covered in the  
section on Replacing guide bearings.  
In the case of replacing a single faulty component  
(such as a single bearing or pair of bearings on an  
eccentric) you do not necessarily have to adjust all of the  
other components -- however, their adjustment should be  
checked when any other adjustment is made.  
Before making any adjustments be certain to  
disconnect the saw from its electrical power source to  
prevent accidental motor start-ups.  
Adjust blade for parallelism:  
1. Use a new blade or a blade in nearly new condition and  
have it fully tensioned and tracking correctly before  
making any adjustments.  
2. Be sure the stationary vise jaw is at a right angle to the  
blade. If you are not certain the jaw is correctly adjusted,  
use the procedure under Establishing a reference angle,  
to be sure the jaw is correctly set.  
3. Lower the saw arm to full horizontal position.  
4. Use a machinist's protractor against the stationary vise  
jaw and check the blade for parallel. If the blade is  
Figure 12: Adjusting blade parallelism using the support  
bearing eccentrics. Use two wrenches -- one to lock and  
unlock the lock nut, the other to adjust the bearings using  
the tang on the guide bearing shaft.  
16  
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Adjusting blade vertical:  
Test cutting to verify  
adjustment accuracy  
The blade guide bearing seat can rotate as needed to  
make the blade vertical to the saw table. Follow these  
instructions.  
Test cuts can be used to determine whether or not  
you have adjusted the blade accurately. Use 2 inch bar  
stock to perform these test cuts, as follows:  
1. With the saw arm in horizontal position, put a  
machinists square on the table, and against the blade, as  
shown. The blade should be square (vertical) to the table.  
If not...  
2. Slightly loosen the socket head cap screw which  
secures the bearing seat to the bracket bar.  
3. Use a wrench to rotate the seat until the blade is  
vertical. (See Figure 13.)  
4. Tighten the socket head cap screw securely.  
5. Check the other blade guide for vertical. Adjust, if  
necessary.  
6. After adjusting for vertical, RECHECK THE BLADE  
FOR PARALLEL. Changes in vertical can easily result in  
changes in parallelism. See Adjusting blade parallelism.  
1. With the bar stock securely clamped in the vise, make  
a cut through the bar stock. (See Figure 14.)  
2. Mark the top of the bar stock.  
3. Move the bar stock about 1/4 inch past the blade so  
you can begin a second cut.  
4. Rotate the bar stock 180 degrees so the mark you  
made is now at the bottom of the cut.  
5. Make a cut through the bar stock.  
6. Use a micrometer to measure the thickness variation  
between the top and bottom of the disc you have cut from  
the bar stock. Unless things are truly perfectly aligned,  
there is almost certain to be a certain amount of "wedge"  
to the shape of the disc you have cut. The saw blade can  
be considered correctly adjusted when the variation  
measured is no more than .012 inch across the face of the  
disc.  
If you do not have a 2 inch bar stock available for a  
test cut, use a larger diameter test work piece rather than  
a smaller one. The maximum thickness variation on any  
test piece should be no more than .003 inches, per side,  
per inch of stock diameter.  
Figure 13: Adjusting blade vertical  
17  
Figure 14: Step-by-step method to produce a test disc  
which can be measured for "wedge" - a measurement for  
testing cutting accuracy.  
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Adjusting guide bearings  
Replacing guide bearings  
There are eight side blade guide/support bearings.  
These bearings are installed in the bearing seat, and the  
seat is attached to the sliding adjustment bracket.  
These bearings are stacked, with two bearings on  
each adjustment eccentric. The width of each pair of  
stacked bearings is slightly less than the width of a blade.  
The force against each of the bearings in each  
1. Remove the blade as outlined in steps 1 through 6 of  
Replacing blades.  
2. Remove the jam nut on the eccentric upon which you  
are going to replace bearings.  
3. Remove the clip which secures the bearings on the  
eccentric shaft.  
4. Tap the old bearings off and press the new bearings  
on.  
5. Replace the snap ring which secures the bearings on  
the eccentric.  
stack is not equal. This is because the bearings are  
twisting the blade. This puts a much higher force against  
the two bearings which are doing most of the twisting.  
Look at Figure 15 for a diagram which shows this effect.  
6. Reinstall the eccentric in its position and tighten the  
jam nut loosely on the eccentric.  
7. Install the blade according to instructions 7 through 14  
in Replacing blades.  
8. Adjust bearing clearance according to instructions in  
the previous section: Adjusting guide bearings.  
Adjusting blade  
back-up bearings  
The back-up bearings support the rear of the saw  
blade as it takes the pressure of cutting. (Refer to  
Figure 11.)  
1. Being careful not to disturb the vertical angle of the  
guide bearing seat, loosen the socket head cap screw  
which secures the seat.  
2. Move the seat downward until the back-up bearing just  
barely touches the back of the blade.  
3. Tighten the socket head cap screw securely.  
4. Perform this same operation on the other back-up  
bearing, if required.  
After adjusting the back-up bearings, CHECK FOR  
BLADE VERTICAL according instructions in Adjusting  
blade vertical. It is very easy to disturb the vertical plane  
of the blade while performing this adjustment, and a blade  
which is not vertical will NOT cut straight.  
Figure 15: Guide bearing forces. Blade twist and clear-  
ance is exaggerated for demonstration. In practice, the  
blade will be standing vertical between the bearings when  
they are adjusted correctly.  
The bearings are adjusted by moving the eccentrics  
as required, and by using your fingers to twist the bear-  
ings to see if they can rotate, and how difficult it is to  
rotate them.  
The bearing clearance is correctly adjusted when  
the bearings labeled with an "A" in Figure 15 cannot be  
turned at all, and when bearings labeled with a "B" in  
Figure 15 can barely be turned with your fingers.  
If the supporting bearings don't turn at all -- the set-  
up is too tight. If they can be turned easily using your  
thumb and forefinger -- the set-up is too loose.  
To adjust:  
18  
1. Put a wrench on the adjustment tang of the bearing set  
you want to adjust. This prevents the eccentric from  
turning.  
2. Use another wrench to loosen the lock nut for the  
eccentric bolt.  
3. Turn the eccentric using the adjustment tang to loosen  
or tighten the bearing set, as needed.  
4. Tighten the jam nut.  
5. Check bearing tightness on both sides of the blade.  
Re-adjust as required until the conditions described in the  
above paragraphs is obtained.  
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Replacing the drive wheel  
Replacing idler wheel  
or bearings  
1. Complete steps 1 through 6 in Replacing blades.  
2. Remove the snap ring which secures the lower wheel  
to the gearbox output shaft.  
1. Complete steps 1 through 6 in Replacing blades.  
2. Remove center bolt and washer from the idler wheel.  
3. Remove the two bolts which hold the sliding plate draw  
block in the sliding plate and remove the wheel and draw  
block from the saw as an assembly.  
3. Pull the wheel off of the gearbox output shaft using a  
suitable puller.  
4. Inspection: Examine the wheel for damage on its drive  
edge, shoulder, or the shaft boss. Replace if any faults  
are found.  
5. Reinstall the wheel by pressing and/or tapping it back  
onto the shaft using a soft-faced mallet.  
6. Reinstall the snap ring which retains the wheel on the  
shaft.  
7. Complete steps 7 through 14 of Replacing blades and  
any steps in Adjusting blade tracking, as needed to  
complete the installation.  
4. Using a suitable puller or press, pull or press the  
wheel, complete with bearings, off of the draw block.  
5. Using a suitable puller, remove the two bearings from  
inside the wheel hub.  
6. Inspections: Inspect the bearings for evidence of  
leakage and turn them to feel for roughness or other  
internal flaws. Replace if leaking or roughness is felt.  
Examine the wheel for damage on its drive edge, shoul-  
der, or the bearing mounting boss. Replace if any faults  
are found.  
7. To install new bearings use a suitable press to press  
them in the center of the wheel until the races are flush  
with the shoulder inside the wheel hub. (See Figure 17.)  
8. Press the bearing and wheel assembly onto the shaft  
of the sliding block.  
Installing the  
9. Reinstall the washer and bolt which retain the wheel on  
the shaft.  
vertical sawing table  
1. Disconnect the saw from its electrical power source to  
prevent accidental motor start-ups.  
10. Reinstall the draw block and wheel assembly to the  
saw arm using the bolts to secure it to the plate.  
11. Complete steps 7 through 14 of Replacing blades and  
any steps in Adjusting blade tracking, as needed to  
complete the installation.  
2. Raise the saw to full vertical position and lock in  
position using the quick lock valve.  
3. Remove the two flat head cap screws which hold the  
small cutting plate to the bearing seat.  
4. Place the large vertical cutting plate in position and use  
the two flat head cap screws to attach it firmly to the  
bearing seat.  
5. Reconnect the saw to electrical power and it is ready to  
use as a vertical band saw.  
19  
Figure 17: Idler wheel bearing  
configuration  
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jack oil for the hydraulic fluid.  
Servicing the hydraulic  
control cylinder  
25. Install the top cap on the piston rod and slide it into  
the cylinder, flush with the bottom snap ring. Again, a  
slight twisting motion will help ease the top cap into  
positon. You will almost certainly expel some fluid from  
the valve body while doing this, which is why you are  
doing it over a container.  
26. Reinstall the needle valve assembly into the valve  
body and tighten it.  
27. Install the top snap ring.  
28. Install the plastic cap on top of the cylinder.  
29. Reinstall the cylinder on the saw by reversing  
steps 1 to 3, above.  
Note: do not dispose of discarded hydraulic  
fluid carelessly. Use a licensed waste oil  
disposal service to handle discarded fluids.  
Over a long period of service the hydraulic control  
cylinder may need replacement of its internal seals. Use  
the following procedure. (See Figure 18.)  
1. Lower the arm to its horizontal position.  
2. Remove the upper fasteners, lower set screw, and pin  
which secure the cylinder to the saw arm and saw base.  
3. Working over a container suitable to hold the fluid, pull  
the control rod to its full extended position.  
4. Remove the nut on the bottom fitting of the valve and  
line assembly. Being careful not to kink the copper line,  
remove the end of the line from the fitting in the cylinder.  
5. Slowly push the control rod to its fully collapsed  
position. This will force most of the hydraulic fluid from  
the cylinder.  
6. Put the line back into its fitting and tighten its securing  
nut.  
7. Remove the needle valve assembly from the valve  
body.  
8. Pull off the plastic cap at the top of the cylinder.  
9. Remove the internal snap ring at the top of the  
cylinder.  
10. Wrap a rag around the top of the cylinder to catch  
and cushion the top cap when it is expelled from the  
cylinder.  
11. Use a source of VERY LOW PRESSURE air and  
apply pressure to the needle valve cavity in the valve  
body. The top cap will pop out of the cylinder and into the  
rag.  
12. Remove the lower snap ring from inside the cylinder.  
13. Slide the piston assembly from the cylinder, complete.  
14. Remove the bottom nut, washer and rubber ring from  
the bottom of the piston rod.  
15. Remove piston from the rod.  
16. Remove the U-ring from the piston.  
17. Remove the one external and the two internal O-rings  
from the top cap.  
Discard all soft parts.  
18. Clean all metal parts with a suitable solvent.  
19. Use clean hydraulic fluid as a lubricant for all subse-  
quent operations. Install the three O-rings on the top cap  
and the U-ring on the piston.  
20  
20. Install the piston, U-ring lip down, on the piston rod.  
21. Install the rubber ring against the bottom of the piston  
and secure it with the washer and nut.  
22. Slide the piston assembly into the cylinder. A slight  
twisting motion will help ease the U-ring into the cylinder.  
Push the piston assembly all of the way to the bottom of  
the cylinder.  
Figure 18: Hydraulic control cylinder exploded view  
23. Install the bottom snap ring inside the cylinder.  
24. Again working over a container which can catch any  
spilled fluid, fill the cylinder with hydraulic fluid until it  
comes out the valve body. Use a high quality hydraulic  
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Electrical  
Machine Set-up  
The saw is delivered as either a 115 volt or 230 volt  
saw, depending upon your order. Wiring diagrams for  
either type of circuit are shown here.  
The motor is connected, internally, to achieve the  
voltage set-up required. However, you can change the  
motor's internal wiring connections to change the  
operating voltage, if necessary.  
The saw delivered to you has been adjusted at the  
factory. A number of test pieces have been cut using the  
saw to verify the accuracy of cutting.  
Therefore, the only set-up operations required  
before releasing the saw for service are spotting the saw  
and establishing the electrical connections to the motor.  
If ordered with the coolant kit, the kit is typically  
installed at the JET factory. However, if the kit is ordered  
separately by you, it must be installed by a set-up  
mechanic, so instructions for this task are included in this  
Machine set-up section, as well.  
To change the  
operating voltage  
1. Disconnect the saw from its electrical power source.  
2. Open the motor plate. The requirements for  
either 115 or 230 volt connection will be seen on a  
diagram inside the motor plate.  
3. After making the connections, close the motor plate.  
4. If you are using a plug connection to a socket, you will  
need to use the appropriate plug for the new power  
source supplying the saw, then plug the cord into the  
supplying receptacle to reconnect power to the saw.  
5. If you are hard wired to a junction box, connect to the  
wires in the box, close the box, and reestablish power to  
the branch.  
Uncrating and spotting  
the saw  
Spot the saw where it makes the most sense for the  
operations you will probably be doing. If you are going to  
be doing cut-off work on very long pieces of stock, allow  
plenty of room for the stock, infeed and outfeed supports,  
etc.  
6. The saw is now ready for service.  
Remove the saw from the shipping skid and discard  
any hold-down devices which might have secured the saw  
to the skid.  
Note the lock plate on the arm of the saw which is  
secured under the bump rubber. This lock plate must be  
removed before the saw arm can be raised. You may  
discard the lock plate and cap screw used to hold it in  
place. Be sure, however, to replace the nut on the bottom  
of the horizontal stop.  
Note: JET recommends that any wiring involving  
hard wiring of the saw to a branch, or any change of  
voltage supplied to the motor, be performed by a  
licensed electrician.  
Note: also --- if the coolant kit is installed on the  
Model J-3410 saw is prewired for 115 volt operation .  
When changing the motor voltage to 230 volts, the  
coolant pump must be changed to 230 volt following  
Figure-20 or the wiring diagram on the pump lable.  
21  
Figure 20: 230 Volt wiring diagram  
Figure 19: 115 volt wiring diagram  
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Installing the coolant kit  
Adjusting the horizontal stop  
and motor switch  
1. Install the baffle in the tank so the pump is held at one  
end of the tank.  
2. Put the tank and pump assembly in the flanges which  
hold it in the saw base. The pump should be at the saw  
motor end of the base.  
3. Install the nozzle assembly in the fixture in the right-  
hand guide bearing bracket and secure it with the set  
screw in the fixture.  
The horizontal stop and motor switch are located on  
the front of the saw table at the left hand side. The  
horizontal stop is a rubber disc, mounted on a flat-headed  
screw. The screw height, and therefore the horizontal  
position of the saw arm, is adjusted using two nuts on the  
screw.  
4. Install the delivery hose between the nipple on the  
pump and the nipple on the nozzle assembly.  
5. Install the return line between the nipple on the table  
and the empty side of the tank.  
6. Wire the pump motor to the pump switch according to  
the wiring diagram on the facing page. Female spade  
clips for the pump-to-switch connections are not supplied  
with the kit and must be sourced locally, by you.  
7. Test the system by putting coolant in the tank and  
turning on the pump switch and motor switch.  
8. The system is ready for use on the saw.  
The motor switch is supposed to turn the motor off  
just before the arm contacts the horizontal stop. In this  
way a complete cut can be made and the blade can be  
automatically stopped before the arm is lifted to set up  
another cut.  
Adjust the horizontal stop whenever the rubber disc  
is worn to the point where the stop requires replacement.  
To replace or adjust the hori-  
zontal stop:  
1. Disconnect the saw from its electrical power source to  
prevent accidental motor start up.  
2. Raise the saw arm to its full up position.  
3. Remove the lower nut which secures the horizontal  
stop screw to the saw and remove the horizontal stop  
assembly, complete.  
4. Install the new horizontal stop and make the nuts  
which secure it finger tight.  
5. Lower the saw arm to its horizontal position.  
7. Adjust the horizontal stop height, using the upper and  
lower nuts, until the saw blade is below the level of the  
table surface and is fully into the blade relief slot on the  
table.  
8. To be certain the blade has made enough downward  
travel to make a complete cut on the largest workpiece  
which fits in the saw:  
Chip brush replacement  
The chip brush is a circular wire brush which is  
mounted in a bracket at the right-hand side of the saw  
arm. The purpose of the brush is to remove chips from  
the saw teeth and off of the blade so excessive amounts  
of chips don't get into the wheel guard section of the saw.  
The brush shaft spins in the bracket and the shaft is  
secured using a set screw and collar. With extended use  
this brush will be worn and require replacement.  
1. Disconnect the saw from its power source to prevent  
accidental motor start-up.  
8.1. Open the adjustable vise jaw to its widest position  
8.2. Place a straight edge flat on the saw table and  
move it to where it contacts the blade.  
8.3. The saw blade teeth should be below the saw table  
along the entire distance you can slide the straight edge.  
Adjust the horizontal stop until this condition is met.  
9. Tighten the horizontal stop nuts securely.  
10. Reestablish the electrical connection to the saw and  
proceed to adjust the motor switch actuator.  
2. Remove the set screw and collar from the brush shaft.  
3. Remove the old brush and replace it with a new one.  
4. Install the collar and set screw so the brush can spin  
freely in the bracket.  
5. Adjust the bracket, if necessary, so the brush makes  
light contact with the saw blade.  
22  
Adjusting the  
motor switch actuator  
1. Raise the arm until the switch actuator is not in contact  
with the switch.  
2. Turn the switch ON.  
3. Lower the arm until the arm contacts the horizontal  
stop. The motor switch should shut off the motor just  
before the arm contacts the horizontal stop.  
4. If necessary, bend the switch actuator and re-test the  
system until the correct motor shut-off instant is obtained.  
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Troubleshooting  
Probable cause  
Potential solutions  
Problem  
1. Use more pressure to tighten vise.  
Excessive  
blade  
breakage  
Material loose in the vise  
2. Check stationary jaw pivot and lock bolts for tightness.  
3. Check quick release handle nut for excessive tightness  
-- nut should be just tight enough to keep adjustable jaw  
from tilting when tightening.  
4. If you are stacking multiple pieces in the vise, be sure  
all of the pieces are captured by the vise pressure.  
1. Check technical literature for recommended feeds and  
speeds for the material and blade you are using.  
2. Check chip formation to adjust speed and feed to  
correct rate when sawing.  
Incorrect feed or speed  
Incorrect blade tension  
1. Adjust blade tension to where it just does not slip on  
the wheel.  
1. Be sure the saw motor has come fully up to speed  
before beginning a cut and be sure the blade is not resting  
on the workpiece before the motor has come up to full  
speed.  
Teeth in contact with work before saw is  
started  
1. Use paper cutting method of adjusting blade tracking.  
See Blade Tracking Adjustment.  
Blade rubs on wheel flange  
2. Check drive and idler wheels for looseness in mount-  
ing parts or worn/damaged bearings.  
1. Adjust blade guides.  
Misaligned blade guides  
1. Use a thinner blade. Check with your blade supplier  
for recommendations on blade thickness for a specific  
wheel diameter.  
Blade too thick for wheel diameter  
1. Replace blade.  
Cracking at weld  
Premature  
blade  
dulling  
1. Use finer tooth blade.  
Teeth too coarse  
Too much blade speed  
1. Try next lower speed or check technical literature for  
specific recommendations regarding speeds for specific  
blade and material being cut.  
2. Check with materials supplier for recommendations on  
the workpiece material supplied.  
3. If using coolant, check with supplier regarding correct  
coolant for the job.  
1. Increase pressure while observing chip formation to be  
sure you are cutting efficiently.  
Inadequate feed pressure  
1. Reduce speed of blade.  
Hard spot or scale on material  
2. Increase feed pressure in scale or hard spots .  
1. Work hardening materials such as stainless require a  
heavy, continuous cut. Be sure you are using a sharp  
blade, then, if necessary, release some counterbalance  
spring pressure by loosening the tension nut if work  
hardening of the material is a problem.  
Work hardening of material (especially  
stainless steel)  
23  
1. Reinstall blade so teeth point toward right end of saw.  
1. Check with materials supplier and/or blade supplier for  
coolant recommendations.  
Blade installed backwards  
Incorrect coolant or no coolant  
2. Check with coolant supplier for specific recommenda-  
tions on the blade and material you are using.  
1. Increase tension so blade is above the slipping point.  
1. Adjust the stationary vise jaw so it is square to the  
blade.  
Insufficient blade tension  
Work not square  
Crooked  
cuts  
2. Clamp work tightly in the vise.  
3. Check blade for vertical and adjust, if necessary.  
4. Perform test cuts according to instructions on page  
until cuts are satisfactorily square.  
5. Move guide bearings as close as possible to work  
while still completing the cut.  
6. Check guide bearings, seats and brackets for possible  
looseness or wear.  
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Troubleshooting  
Feed pressure too great  
1. Observe chip formation to be sure cutting is efficient.  
1. Adjust guide bearings according to instruction in this  
manual.  
Guide bearings not adjusted properly  
Inadequate blade tension  
1. Increase blade tension so blade does not slip on the  
wheels.  
Blade guides incorrectly spaced  
1. Move guide brackets until they just clear the workpiece  
while making a complete cut.  
2. For small section pieces, be sure the blade is sharp  
and correctly tensioned. Use less feed pressure.  
1. Replace blade when it dulls.  
Dull blade  
2. Consider using a coolant, if not already used.  
1. Check technical literature for recommended speeds  
and blade type for material being cut -- observe chip  
formation to verify efficient cutting.  
Incorrect speed  
Blade guide assembly loose  
Blade guide bearing assembly loose  
Blade tracking too far away from wheel  
flanges  
1. Tighten guide bracket.  
1. Check tightness of bearing seat bolt.  
1. Use paper cutting method of setting blade tracking.  
Worn upper wheel bearings  
Loose upper wheel mounting assembly  
Too much feed or speed  
1. Replace bearings if worn.  
1. Tighten all bolts securing wheel to arm.  
1. Try one step lower speed and observe chip formation  
for efficient cutting/feed rate.  
Rough  
cuts  
Blade too coarse  
1. Use finer blade. Check with suppliers for recommen-  
dations for the material you are cutting.  
1. Check with blade suppliers for recommendations for  
exotic or unusual materials or specifications.  
1. Be sure workpiece is flat on saw table.  
2. Decrease feed pressure.  
1. Reduce tension to just above point where blade slips.  
1. Check eccentric jam nuts for tightness.  
1. Check guide bearings for wear. Replace if necessary.  
1. Adjust guide bearings according to instructions in this  
manual.  
Incorrect blade for material  
Cut is binding blade  
Blade  
twisting  
Too much blade tension  
Loose guide bearing eccentrics  
Worn guide bearings  
Incorrect guide bearing adjustment  
Loose guide bearing bracket  
1. Tighten bracket on saw arm.  
Loose bearing seat attachment screw  
1. Tighten bearing seat attachment screw -- adjust blade  
for vertical and parallel.  
Unusual  
wear on  
Blade guides worn  
Blade guide bearings not adjusted properly  
1. Replace.  
1. Check and adjust for proper clearance.  
1. Tighten bracket to saw arm.  
side/back of Blade guide bearing bracket loose  
blade  
Breaking  
teeth  
Blade running on wheel flange  
Teeth too coarse for work  
Too heavy feed  
1. Adjust blade tracking using the paper cutting method.  
1. Use blade with finer pitch.  
1. Decrease feed rate -- observe chip formation to verify  
efficient cutting.  
24  
Too slow speed  
1. Increase blade speed. Check technical literature or  
blade or workpiece supplier for blade speed recommenda-  
tions.  
Vibrating work piece  
1. Be sure vise is tight.  
2. Support slender cross section or long workpieces with  
appropriate out-feed supports.  
3. If stacking pieces in the vise, be sure all workpieces  
are securely captured by the vise.  
Tooth gullets loading  
1. Use coarser blade or one with a tooth geometry more  
appropriate to the workpiece being cut.  
Blade in contact with workpiece before motor 1. Always allow motor to come fully up to speed before  
is started  
beginning cut.  
Motor  
Blade tension too high  
1. Decrease blade tension to just above slip point.  
1. Use finer pitch blade.  
running too Blade too coarse for work (pipes, especially)  
hot  
Blade is too fine for work (heavier, soft  
material)  
1. Use coarser blade.  
Worn transmission and worm gear  
Gears need lubrication  
1. Replace gears in transmission gearbox.  
1. Check gearbox and add oil as required.  
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Replacement Parts  
This section provides exploded view illustrations that show the replacement parts for the Model J-3410 and  
J-3410-2 7-Inch x 12-Inch Horizontal Cut-Off Band Saw. Also provided are parts listings that provide part number  
and description. The item numbers shown on the illustration relate to the item number in the facing parts listing.  
Order replacement parts from:  
WMH Tool Group  
427 New Sanford Road  
LaVergne, Tennessee 30786  
Ph: 800-274-6848  
Identify the replacement part by the part number shown in the parts listing. Be sure to include the model  
number and serial number of your machine when ordering replacement parts to assure that you will receive  
the correct part.  
25  
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26  
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Parts List - Saw Head  
Ref.  
Ref.  
no.  
Qty.  
Qty.  
Description  
Description  
Part.no.  
Part.no.  
no.  
1
2
J-5710011 Pulley cover  
5710021 Motor pulley  
1
1
8
1
1
3
1
4
1
1
1
50  
51  
5710551 Bearing pin  
5710561 Eccentric shaft assy.  
2
2
2
1
4
1
2
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
4-1 5710041 HH screw 5/16X1  
51-1 5517504 Center shaft assy.  
52  
53  
5
6
7
8
J-5710051Motor 3/4 HP 115V 1PH  
J-5710061Motor mount plate assy.  
5710071 HH screw 5/16x5/8  
5710571 Brush  
5710581 Hex nut 3/8x24  
54A 5710591 Oil plug  
5710081 HH screw 5/16x1-1/4  
55  
56  
57  
58  
59  
60  
61  
62  
5710611 Phillips screw 1/4x3/8  
5710621 Vertical cutting plate  
5710631 Blade adjustable sear - rear  
5710641 Adjustable bracket bar - rear  
5710651 SHCS 5/16x1-1/8  
5710661 Vertical cutting plate (small)  
5710671 Brush bracket  
5710681 Nozzle bracket  
9A 5710091 Tapping screw 6mmx20  
10A J-5710111 Gearbox cover  
11A 5710121 Gearbox gasket  
12  
12  
13  
14  
5710131 Trnsmsion gear 20mm bore  
5711921 Trnsmsion gear 25mm bore  
5710141 Ball bearing 6005  
Saw Blade:  
5632141 3/4 X .032 X 93" 8 TPI  
5632151 3/4 X .032 X 93" 8 T STND  
5632161 3/4 X .032 X 93" 14 TPI  
5710161 Oil seal 20.42.7  
2
62-1 5517505 Valve  
62-2 5517506 Nozzle cock  
63  
65  
1
1
1
1
1
J-5710691Blade guard  
15  
16  
17  
18  
J-5710721Saw bow (arm)-rounded style  
J-5711821 Saw bow (arm)-square style  
5710731 HH screw 5/16x2-1/2  
5710741 Thumb screw  
5711881 Oil seal 25.47.7  
5635271 Ball bearing 6004Z  
5680391 Ball bearing 6005Z  
5710181 Trnsmsion Shaft - 5/8 bore  
5711931 Trnsmsion Shaft - 7/8 bore  
5710191 Blade whl rear 20mm bore  
5711831 Blade whl rear 25mm bore  
5710211 Washer 3/8  
5710231 Belt 3V-270  
5710241 Worm pulley  
5710251 Set screw 5/16x3/8  
66  
67  
2
3
3
1
67A 5711561 Washer 1/4  
68  
J-5710751Blade cover assy early style  
J-5711811 Blade cover assy later style  
5710941 Washer 5/16  
5710961 Collar  
5711031 Spring washer 5/16  
85  
87  
93  
6
1
13  
2
4
2
2
1
1
10  
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
3
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
2
1
19  
21  
22  
23  
1
1
1
3
1
1
1
1
2
1
2
93-1 5517507 Adj. Screw 1/4x3/8  
94  
98  
103 5711141 Washer 5/16  
116 5711281 Hex nut 5/16  
122 5711351 Key 5mm  
5711041 Nut 5/16  
5711081 Set screw 1/4x1/4  
23-1 5517501 Set screw 5/16x3/4  
25  
26  
27  
28  
29  
30  
30  
31  
32  
33  
34  
35  
36  
37  
38  
39  
40  
41  
42  
9100451 Ball bearing 6003  
5710281 Oil seal 17.35.7  
5710291 Bearing bushing  
5710311 Ball bearing 6003  
5710321 Worm gear shaft  
5710331 Snap ring 42mm  
5711871 Snap ring 47mm  
9052181 HH screw 5/16x1-1/2  
5710351 Blade tension sliding plate  
5710361 Sliding plate draw block  
5710371 Blade wheel shaft - front  
5710381 Bearing bushing  
9100331 Ball bearing 6203  
5710411 Switch actuator  
5710421 Blade wheel - front  
9100331 Ball bearing 6203  
5710441 Phillips screw 1/4x1/2  
5710451 HH screw 5/16x3/4  
5710461 HH screw 1/4x1/2  
141 5711561 Washer 1/4  
142 5711571 Screw 3/16x1/4  
145 J-5711391 Cooling fan cover  
147 J-5711431 Capacitor cover  
148 5711471 Capacitor  
149 5711481 Cooling fan  
150 5711841 Bushing  
152 5710531A Blade guide assy left side  
153 5710631A Blade guide assy right side  
155 5711951 Rubber flap  
156 5711251 Cord  
158 5711991 C-clip  
159 5710511A Cmplte gearbox 42mm bore  
160 5711801 Cmplte gearbox 47mm bore  
161 5517509 Block plate  
162 5517510 Hex soc. screw 3/16x1/2  
163 5517511 Bearing bushing  
164 5517512 Key 6x20  
165 5517513 HH screw 3/8x1  
166 5517514 Spring washer 3/8  
167 5517515 Washer 3/8x35x4  
168 5517516 Top support  
169 5517517 HH screw 3/8x1-1/2  
170 5517518 Spring washer 3/8  
171 5517519 Nut 3/8  
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
6
1
7
1
1
2
1
2
1
27  
42-1 5517502 Spring washer 1/4  
42-2 5517503 Washer 1/4  
43  
44  
45  
46A J-5710511 Transmission gearbox 42mm  
J-5711861 Transmission gearbox 47mm  
47  
48  
49  
5710471 Blade tension sliding guides  
5710481 Blade tension adj. knob  
5630601 Knob  
5710521 Adjustable bracket bar - front  
5710531 Blade adjustable seat - front  
5632831 Ball bearing 608ZZ  
1
1
2
172 5517508 HH screw 1/4x3/8  
5711421 Junction box cvr (not shown)  
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Exploded View - Saw Base  
28  
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Parts List - Saw Base  
Ref. Part no.  
no.  
Ref.  
no.  
Description  
Part no.  
Description  
Qty.  
Qty.  
119 5711321 Stock stop  
120 5711331 Thumb screw  
121 5711341 Stock stop rod  
123 5517530 HH screw 5/16x3/4  
124 5711371 Horizontal stop screw support  
125 5711381 Horizontal stop screw  
127 5517531 HH screw 5/16x1  
130 J-5711441 Trough  
131 J-5711451 Floor stand, left  
131A J-5711451R Floor stand, right  
132 J-5711461 Skirt  
135A J-5711491 Shelf  
137 5711521 Enclosure  
1
1
1
2
1
1
5
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
19  
20  
5710211 Spring washer 3/8  
5710221 HH screw 5/16x3/4  
2
8
7
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
20-1 5517520 HH screw 5/16x1/2  
68  
70  
71  
72  
73  
74  
75  
76  
77  
5517521 Set screw 5/16x3/8  
5710771 Nut  
5710781 Vise screw  
5710791 Spring  
5710811 Vise thrust shaft  
5710821 Nut seat  
J-5710831Vice jaw movable  
J-5710841Vice jaw stationary  
5710851 HH screw 1/2x1-1/2  
77-1 5517522 HH screw 1/2x1-1/4  
138 5711531 Gasket  
139 5711541 Cover plate  
143 5711261 Screen  
78  
79  
81  
5628371 Spring washer 1/2  
5507523 Washer 1/2  
5710891 Handle wheel 13mm  
5711781 Handle wheel 15mm  
5710911 Set screw 5/16x3/8  
5710921 Lead screw - 13mm  
5711791 Lead screw - 15mm  
5710931 HH screw 5/16x1  
5710941 Washer 5/16  
144 5711961 Spacer  
161 5711941 Drain hose  
146 5711971 Switch box  
147 5711981 Round head screw 3/16x3/8  
148 5517535 Cylinder  
149 5517536 Hex. soc. screw M10x40  
150 5517537 Washer 3/8  
151 5517538 Spring washer 3/8  
152 5517539 Nut M10  
82  
83  
83  
84  
85  
86  
88  
1
1
2
31  
1
2
2
1
1
1
1
J-5710951Lead screw seat  
5517523 RH Ph. Screw 3/16x1/4  
88-1 5517524 RH Ph. Screw 3/16x3/8  
153 5517540 HH screw 3/8x1  
154 5517541 Spring washer 3/8  
155 5517542 Set screw  
89  
90  
91  
92  
93  
94  
95  
5710981 Spring handle mount - rear  
5710991 Spring adjustable rod  
5711011 Spring  
5711411 HH screw 5/16x1-1/4  
5711031 Spring washer 5/16  
5711041 Nut 5/16  
J-5711051 Pivot arm - 5/8 bore  
J-5711751 Pivot arm - 7/8 bore  
5517525 HH screw 3/8x1 3/4  
5517526 Nut 3/8  
156 5517543 Bottom support  
157 5517544 Support rod  
160 5042291 Modular box  
160A 5711452 Plastic funnel  
162 J-5042281Coolant pump 120V/240V  
submersible - for machines  
with serial numbers 02125948  
and lower  
23  
21  
1
96  
97  
1
3
2
2
2
2
2
1
1
99A 5517527 Fiber hex. nut 1/2  
100 5711111 Washer 1/2  
101 5711061 HH screw 3/8x1-1/2  
102 5711131 Spring Washer 3/8  
104 J-5711151 Power switch Assembly  
105 5711161 Angle scale  
107 J-5711181 Table - 5/8 bore  
J-5711761 Table - 7/8 bore  
108 5711191 HH screw 3/8x1  
109 9056991 Nut 3/8x7x14  
HBS916W-CP Coolant pump 120V/240V  
not submersible - for machines  
with serial numbers 02125949  
and higher  
1
29  
163 5517532 HH. screw 1/4x1/2  
164 5517533 Hose fitting  
165 5517534 Hose Clamp 13mm  
166 9307291 Hose  
167 5517528 Jam nut 3/8  
168 5635500 Wet kit  
169 5518228 Flat Washer 5/8  
170 5518229 Wheel  
171 5518230 Wheel shaft  
172 5518231 Split pin  
4
1
1
1
1
2
4
4
2
4
2
2
1
2
1
110 5711221 90 degree support  
111 5517529 HH screw 3/8x1-3/4  
115 5711271 Support shaft -5/8  
5711771 Support shaft - 7/8  
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Parts List - Hydraulic Cylinder  
30  
Ref. Part no.  
no.  
Description  
Qty.  
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
5517547 Dust cover  
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
5517548 Retaining ring  
5517549 Oil-seal  
5517550 Oil-piston  
5517551 O-ring  
5517552 Cylinder body  
5517553 Oil pressure regulator  
5517554 Oil duct  
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31  
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32  
WMH Tool Group  
427 New Sanford Road  
LaVergne, Tennessee 30786  
Ph: 800-274-6848  
Download from Www.Somanuals.com. All Manuals Search And Download.  

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