OWNER’S MANUAL 2008
125 SX
144 SX
250 SX
3211225en
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INTRODUCTION »
INTENDED PURPOSE
KTM sports motorcycles are designed and constructed to resist the usual wear and tear of normal use in
competitions.
The motorcycles comply with the regulations and categories currently in effect with the leading interna-
tional motorcycle associations.
THE SX MODELS ARE PROHIBITED ON PUBLIC ROADS.
OWNER’S MANUAL
Please read this manual carefully and completely before going on your first ride. It contains a great deal
of information and advice which will help you use and handle your bike properly. Only by doing so will
you learn how to tune your motorbike to your specific needs and how to protect yourself against injury.
Besides, this manual contains important information on motorcycle maintenance.
In your own interest, please pay particular attention to notices that are marked as follows:
– Ignoring these instructions can be dangerous to life and limb!
2
– ignoring these instructions may damage parts of the motorcycle or impair the motorcycle’s traffic safety!
At the time this manual was typeset, it was up-to-date with the latest state of this production series. It
cannot be completely ruled out, however, that minor discrepancies may exist resulting from further design
upgrades of these motorcycles.This manual is an important part of your motorbike and should be passed
on to any subsequent owner in case you decide to sell it.
SERVICE
Observance of the service, maintenance and tuning instructions for the engine and chassis specified in
the Owner's Manual is a prerequisite for faultless operation and the avoidance of premature wear. An
improperly tuned chassis can lead to damage and breakage of the chassis components (see chapter on
checking the basic chassis setting).
The use of the motorcycle under extreme conditions, e.g. on extremely muddy and wet terrain, can lead
to higher than average wear on components such as the drive train or the brakes. In this case it may
become necessary to service or replace wear parts before the service limit specified in the maintenance
schedule has been reached.
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INTRODUCTION »
The service work specified in the "Lubrication and Maintenance Schedule" must be performed by a KTM
workshop and recorded in the service manual otherwise claims under the warranty shall become void. The
fuels and lubricants specified in the Owner's Manual or automotive fluids with equivalent specifications
must be used in accordance with the maintenance schedule.
Take special care to follow the recommended run in, inspection, and maintenance intervals. Heeding
these guidelines will significantly increase the life of your motorcycle.
WARRANTY
The service work specified in the "Lubrication and Maintenance Schedule" must be performed by a KTM
workshop and recorded in the service manual otherwise claims under the warranty shall become void.
No claims can be filed under the warranty for damage or consequential damage caused by manipulations
or conversions to the motorcycle.
AUTOMOTIVE FLUIDS
The fuels and lubricants specified in the Owner's Manual or automotive fluids with equivalent specifica-
tions must be used in accordance with the maintenance schedule.
SPARE PARTS, ACCESSORIES
For your own safety, use KTM-approved parts and accessories only. KTM is not liable for damage that
arises in connection with the use of other products.
3
TRANSPORT
When transporting your motorcycle, secure it with elastic straps or other mechanical devices in an upright
position. Be sure that the fuel tap is closed. If the motorcycle topples over, fuel can flow out of the car-
buretor or fuel tank
ENVIRONMENT
Offroad-Motorcycle driving is a wonderful sport and we hope that you will be able to enjoy it to the full.
It may, however, involve potential problems for the environment or lead to conflicts with others. These
problems or conflicts can be avoided if the motorcycle is used responsibly. To safeguard the future of
motorcycle sports, make sure that you use the motorcycle in accordance with the law, show that you are
environmentally conscious and respect the rights of others.
Enjoy driving your motorcycle !
KTM-SPORTMOTORCYCLE AG
5230 MATTIGHOFEN, AUSTRIA
Attachments: Spare parts manual chassis & engine
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TABLE OF CONTENTS »
Page
Page
Replacing the front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Checking the rear brake fluid level . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Refilling the rear brake fluid reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Changing the basic position of the foot brake pedal . .25
Checking the rear brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Replacing the rear brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Dismounting and mounting the front wheel . . . . . . . .26
Dismounting and mounting the rear wheel . . . . . . . . .27
Tires, air pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Checking spoke tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Checking the coolant level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Bleeding the cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Cleaning the air filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Exhaust system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Changing the original position of the clutch lever . . . .30
Changing the oil level of hydraulic clutch 125/144 SX 30
Changing the oil level of hydraulic clutch 250 SX . . . .30
Bleeding the hydraulic clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Carburetor adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Draining the float chamber of the carburetor . . . . . . .33
Checking the float level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Adjusting the engine characteristic via the ignition curve . .34
Adjusting the engine characteristic via the auxiliary spring .34
Check transmission oil level (125/144) . . . . . . . . . . .35
Changing the transmission oil (125/144) . . . . . . . . . .35
Check transmission oil level (250) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Changing the transmission oil (250) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
SERIAL NUMBER LOCATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Chassis number . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Engine number, engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Clutch lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Hand brake lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Short circuit button . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Filler cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Fuel tap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Choke knob . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Shift lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Kickstarter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Compression damping of fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Rebound damping of fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Compression damping of shock absorber . . . . . . . . . . .8
Rebound damping of shock absorber . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
GENERAL TIPS AND WARNINGS FOR STARTING THE
MOTORCYCLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Instructions for your first ride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Running in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
4
DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
What you should check before each start . . . . . . . . . .10
Starting when the engine is cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Starting when the engine is warm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
What to do when the engine is „flooded“ . . . . . . . . . .11
Starting off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Shifting/Riding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Braking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Stopping and parking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Refueling, fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
CLEANING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
CONSERVATION FOR WINTER OPERATION . . . . . . . . . .36
STORAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – CHASSIS . . . . . . . . . .37
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . .39
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE . . . .15
Changing the spring preloading of the shock absorber . .15
Pivot bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Basic suspension setup for the weight of the driver . . .16
Checking the shock absorber and spring . . . . . . . . . .16
Determining the static sag of the shock absorber . . . .16
Determining the riding sag of the shock absorber . . . .16
Checking the basic setup of the telescopic fork . . . . .17
Changing the spring preload on the telescopic fork . . .17
Replacing fork springs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Breather plug front fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Cleaning the dust sleeves of the telescopic fork . . . . .17
Changing the fork offset (caster) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Checking and adjusting the steering head bearing . . .19
How to change the handlebar position . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Check chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Adapting the chain guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Correct chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Chain maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Chain wear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
General information about KTM disc brakes . . . . . . . .22
Adjusting the free travel at the hand brake lever . . . . .23
Checking the brake fluid level - front brake . . . . . . . .23
Refilling the front brake fluid reservoir . . . . . . . . . . .23
Checking the front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Carburetor table 125 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Carburetor table 144 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Carburetor table 250 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
WIRUNG DIAGRAMM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
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SERIAL NUMBER LOCATIONS »
Chassis number
The chassis number is stamped on the right side of the steering head tube.
Enter this number in the field on page no 1.
Engine number, engine type
The engine number and the engine type are stamped into the left side of the
engine below the engine sprocket. Enter this number on page 1.
5
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
Clutch lever
The clutch lever [1] is located on the left side of the handlebars. The adjust-
ing screw [A] is used to change the original position of the clutch lever (see
maintenance work on chassis and engine).
The clutch is hydraulically actuated and adjusts itself automatically.
1
A
Hand brake lever
The hand brake lever [2] is mounted on the handlebars on the right and actu-
ates the front wheel brake. The adjusting screw [B] can be used to change
the basic position of the hand brake lever (see maintenance work on chassis
and engine).
2
B
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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
Short circuit button (SX)
The short circuit button [1] turns off the engine. When pressing this button,
the ignition circuit is short-circuited.
1
Filler cap
To open it:
Press the release button [2] and turn the tank cap in a coun-
terclockwise direction.
Put the tank cap back on and turn in a clockwise direction until
the release button snaps into place.
3
To close it:
2
Install tank breather hose [3] without kinks.
6
Fuel tap
OFF In this position the fuel tap is closed. No fuel can flow to the carburetor.
ON During operation the twist grip must be turned to ON. This means that the
fuel can flow to the carburetor.
ON
OFF
Choke knob
When pulling the choke knob [4] fully towards the top, a bore is opened in
the carburetor. Through this bore the engine can take in additional fuel. This
results in a rich fuel-air mixture, that is needed for a cold start.
When pressing the choke knob downward in the carburetor, the bore is closed
again.
4
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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
Shift lever
The shift lever is mounted on the left side of the engine. The position of the
gears is shown in the illustration. Neutral, or the idle speed, is located between
first and second gear.
2,3,4,5, (6)
N
1
Kickstarter
The kickstarter is mounted on the left side of the engine. Its upper part can
be swivelled.
7
Foot brake pedal
The foot brake pedal is disposed in front of the right foot rest. Its basic posi-
tion can be adjusted to your seat position (see maintenance work).
Compression damping of fork
Hydraulic compression damping determines the reaction when the fork is com-
pressed. The degree of compression can be adjusted with adjusting
screws at the bottom of the fork legs.
Turn the screw [1] clockwise to increase damping, turn it counterclockwise
to reduce damping during compression.
1
STANDARD ADJUSTMENT:
– turn adjusting screw clockwise as far as it will go
– turn it back by as many clicks as are specified for the relevant type of fork
Typ WP Suspension 14187D01 . . . . .14 clicks
Typ WP Suspension 14187D03 . . . . .14 clicks
Rebound damping of fork
Hydraulic rebound damping determines the reaction when the fork is
rebound. Remove the protecting cap [2].
By turning the adjusting screw [3], the degree of damping of the rebound can
be adjusted. Turn the knob clockwise to increase damping, turn it counter-
clockwise to reduce damping during rebounding.
STANDARD ADJUSTMENT:
– turn adjusting screw clockwise as far as it will go
– turn it back by as many clicks as are specified for the relevant type of fork
Typ WP Suspension 14187D01 . . . . .21 clicks
Typ WP Suspension 14187D03 . . . . .21 clicks
3
2
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OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
Damping action during compression of shock absorber
The shock absorber on the SX models can synchronize the compression damp-
ing in the low and high-speed range separately (Dual Compression Control).
Low and high speed refers to the movement of the shock absorber during com-
pression and not to the speed of the motorcycle.
The low and high-speed technology overlaps.
The low-speed setting is primarily for slow to normal shock absorber
compression rates.The high-speed setting is effective at fast compression
rates.Turning in a clockwise direction will increase the damping, turning coun-
terclockwise will decrease the damping.
STANDARD LOW-SPEED SETTING:
– Turn the adjusting screw [1] to the limit in a clockwise direction using a
screwdriver .
2
– Unscrew the respective number of clicks for the specific type of shock
absorber in a counterclockwise direction.
Typ WP Suspension 12187D01 . . . . .14 clicks
Typ WP Suspension 12187D03 . . . . .14 clicks
The damping unit of the shock absorber is filled with high-compression nitro-
gen. Never try to take the shock absorber apart or to do any maintenance work
yourself. Severe injuries could be the result.
1
Never unscrew the black screw [2] connection (24mm).
8
STANDARD HIGH-SPEED SETTING:
– Turn the adjusting screw [3] to the limit in a counterclockwise direction
using a box wrench.
– Unscrew the respective number of turns for the specific type of shock absorber
in a clockwise direction.
3
Typ WP Suspension 12187D01 . . . . .1 turn
Typ WP Suspension 12187D03 . . . . .1 turn
Rebound damping of shock absorber
By using the adjusting screw [4], the degree of damping of the rebound can
be adjusted. Turn the knob to the right side to increase damping, turn it to
the left side to reduce damping during rebounding.
STANDARD ADJUSTMENT:
5
4
– Turn the adjusting screw clockwise to the stop.
– Then turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise, counting the number of
clicks that corresponds to the respective type of shock absorber.
Typ WP Suspension 12187D01 . . . . .23 clicks
Typ WP Suspension 12187D03 . . . . .23 clicks
The damping unit of the shock absorber is filled with high-compression nitro-
gen. Never try to take the shock absorber apart or to do any maintenance work
yourself. Severe injuries could be the result.
Never unscrew the black screw [5] connection (15mm).
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GENERAL TIPS AND WARNINGS FOR STARTING THE MOTORCYCLE »
Instructions for your first ride
– Neither do these models meet the applicable statutory regula-
tions and safety standards. Using them on public roads, high-
ways, freeways, etc. is against the law.
– When riding your motorcycle, please bear in mind that other
people may feel molested by excessive noise.
– Make sure the work for the "pre-delivery inspection" was per-
formed by your authorized KTM workshop. The DELIVERY CER-
TIFICATE and SERVICE MANUAL will be handed over when you
pick up your vehicle.
– Thoroughly read the whole instruction manual before starting
for your first tour.
– Familiarize yourself with the controls.
– Adjust the clutch lever, the hand brake lever and the foot brake
pedal to the most comfortable position.
– Get used to handling the motorcycle on an empty parking lot
or open space, before going for a longer ride. Also try to ride
as slowly as possible while standing upright, to improve your
feeling for the vehicle.
– Do not drive along off-road trails which go beyond your ability
and experience.
– Hold the handlebar with both hands and leave your feet on the
foot rests while driving.
– Remove your foot from the foot brake lever when you are not
braking. If the foot brake lever is not released the brake pads
rub continuously and the braking system is overheated.
– Do not make any alterations to the motorcycle and always use
ORIGINAL KTM SPARE PARTS. Spare parts from other man-
ufacturers can impair the safety of the motorcycle.
– Motorcycles are sensitive to alterations in the distribution of
weight. If you are taking luggage with you, it should be secured
as close as possible to the middle of the vehicle; distribute the
weight evenly between the front and the rear wheel. Never
exceed the maximum permissible laden weight and the axle
weights. The maximum permissible laden weight is made up
of the following components:
9
- Motorcycle ready for operation and tank full
- Luggage
- Driver and passenger with protective clothing and helmet.
– Pay attention to running-in procedure.
Running in
Even very precisely machined sections of engine components have
rougher surfaces than components which have been sliding across
one another for quite some time. Therefore, every engine needs to
be broken in. For this reason, during its first 500 kilometers (300
miles) or 5 hours the engine must not be revved up to its perform-
ance limits.
Apply low but changing loads for running-in.
Do not drive at full load for the first 500 kilometers (300 miles)
or 5 hours!
– Wear suitable clothing when driving a motorcycle. smart KTM
drivers always wear a helmet, boots, gloves, and a jacket,
regardless of whether driving all day or just go for a short ride.
– Do not drive after having consumed alcohol.
– Only use accessory parts recommended by KTM.
– The front and rear wheel are allowed to be fitted only with tires
that have the same profile type.
– Be sure to check the spoke tension after 30 minutes' running time.
The spoke tension will decrease quickly on new wheels. If you con-
tinue to drive with loose spokes, the spokes may crack and lead
to unstable handling (see "Checking the spoke tension")
.
– Adjust your driving speed to the conditions and your driving skills.
– Drive carefully on unknown roads or in unknown territory.
– When driving off-road, always have a friend on a second motor-
cycle to keep you company, so that you can help each other
should difficulties arise.
– Replace the helmet visor or goggle glasses early enough. When
light shines directly on a scratched visor or goggles, you will
be practically blind.
– Never leave your motorcycle without supervision as long as the
engine is running.
– The Above Models were designed and built for one person only
- no additional passenger allowed!
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DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS »
What you should check before each start
When you start off, the motorcycle must be in a perfect technical condition.
For safety reasons, you should make it a habit to perform an overall check of
your motorcycle before each start.
The following checks should be performed:
1
2
3
CHECK TRANSMISSION OIL LEVEL
Too little transmission oil leads to premature wear and will ultimately destroy
gear wheels and parts of the shift mechanism.
FUEL
Check that there is sufficient fuel in the tank; when closing the filler cap,
check that the tank venting hose is free of kinks.
CHAIN
A loose chain was fall off the chain wheels; an extremely worn chain may
tear, and insufficient lubrication may result in unnecessary wear of the
chain and chain wheels.
4
5
TIRES
Check for damaged tires. Tires showing cuts or dents must be replaced.
The tread depth must comply with the legal regulations. Also check the
air pressure. Insufficient tread and incorrect air pressure deteriorate the
driving performance.
BRAKES
Check correct functioning of the braking system. Verify that there is suf-
ficient brake fluid in the reservoir. The reservoirs have been designed in
such a way that brake fluid does not need to be refilled even when the
brake pads are worn. If the level of brake fluid falls below the minimum
value, this indicates a leak in the braking system or completely worn out
brake pads. Arrange for the braking system to be checked by an author-
ized KTM dealer, as complete failure of the braking system can be expected.
Also check the state of the brake hose and the thickness of the brake
linings.
10
Check free travel of the hand brake lever and foot brake lever.
If the resistance in the hand brake lever or foot brake pedal feels „spongy“
(too much give), this is an indication that something is wrong with the brake
system. Don’t ride your motorcycle anymore without first having the brake sys-
tem looked over by a KTM dealer.
6
CABLES
Check correct adjustment and easy running of all control cables.
7
COOLING FLUID
Check the level of cooling fluid when the engine is cold.
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DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS »
Starting when the engine is cold
1
2
3
4
Open fuel tap
Put the gear in neutral
Activate cold-starting aid (choke)
Leave throttle closed or open it no more than 1/3 and kick down kick-
starter vigorously all the way.
– For starting always put on your motorcycle boots to avoid injuries. You could
slip off the kickstarter or the motor could kick back and fling your foot
upwards.
– Forcefully kick the kickstarter down the whole way and do not open the
throttle. A kickstart with too little momentum and an opened throttle
increases the kicking back risk.
– Check for power transmission at temperatures below 0°C (32°F) before
you actuate the kickstarter. If you depress the kickstarter without feeling
any resistance, power is not being transmitted. This could cause injuries.
– Do not start the engine and allow it to idle in a closed area. Exhaust fumes
are poisonous and can cause loss of consciousness and death. Always pro-
vide adequate ventilation while the engine is running.
Do not ride your motorcycle with full load and do not rev up the engine when
cold. Since the piston warms up and expands faster than the water cooled
cylinder, this might cause engine damage. Always let engine idle until warm
or drive it warm at low r.p.m. speeds.
NOTE:
11
The highly inflammable components in modern fuels volatilize if left stand-
ing for longer periods of time. If the motorcycle has not been used for over
1 week, the fuel should be drained from the float chamber. The engine will
start up immediately if the float chamber is filled with fresh, ignitable fuel
Starting when the engine is warm
1
2
3
Open fuel tap
Put the gear in neutral
Open throttle to 1/2 and kick down kickstarter vigorously
What to do when the engine is „flooded“
1
2
3
Close fuel tap
Start engine with full throttle. If necessary, unscrew spark plug and dry it.
Once the engine is running, open fuel tap again.
Starting off
Pull the clutch lever. Put the engine into first gear, slowly release the clutch
lever and accelerate at the same time.
– Before you start off, check that the main or side stand has been swung
right up to the top. If the stand drags on the floor, you may lose control
of your motorcycle.
– Before starting for an off-road tour, it is recommended to additionally secure
the side stand with the rubber band on the air filter box.
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DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS »
Shifting/Riding
You are now in first gear, referred to as the drive or uphill gear.
Depending on the conditions (hill size, etc.), you can shift to a higher
gear. Turn down the throttle, at the same time pull the clutch lever
in and shift to the next higher gear. Let the clutch lever go again
and open the throttle. If you turned on the choke, make sure you
turn it off again as soon as engine is warm.
Motorcycle engines produce a great amount of heat while running.
The engine, exhaust pipe, muffler, brake rotors, and shock absorbers
can become very hot. Do not touch any of these parts after start-
ing the motorcycle, and take care to park it where pedestrians are
not likely to touch it and get burned.
When you reach full speed through opening the throttle all the way,
turn throttle back to 3/4; the speed hardly decreases although the
engine will use less gas. Only give as much gas as the engine can
handle. Through quick and high revving of throttle, the gas con-
sumption will increase. When shifting down, use the brakes if nec-
essary and turn down at the same time. Pull the clutch lever and
shift down to the next lower gear. Let the clutch lever go slowly
and open the throttle or shift down again.
– Close the fuel tap when leaving your vehicle. Otherwise the car-
buretor may get flooded and fuel will enter the engine.
– Never park your motorcycle in places where there exist fire haz-
ards due to dry grass or other easily flammable materials.
Refueling, fuel
Unleaded premium gasoline RON 95 mixed with high grade two
stroke oil.
Mixture ratio 125/144 SX: 1:40
Mixture ratio 250 SX: 1:60
– After falling with the motorcycle, check all its functions thor-
oughly before using it again.
– A twisted handlebar must always be replaced. Do not adjust
the handlebar, it will lose stability.
Fuel and engine oil should only be mixed immediately before use.
KTM recommends Motorex Cross Power 2T.
– High rpm rates when the engine is cold have an adverse effect
on the life of your engine. We recommend you run the engine
in a moderate rpm range for a few miles giving it a chance to
warm up. After that no further precautions in this respect need
to be taken.
– Never have the throttle wide open when changing down to a
lower gear. The engine will overrev, damaging the valves. In addi-
tion, the rear wheel will block so that the motorcycle can eas-
ily get out of control.
Gasoline is highly flammable and poisonous. Extreme caution
should be used when handling gasoline. Do not refuel the motor-
cycle near open flames or burning cigarettes. Always switch off the
engine before refueling. Be careful not to spill gasoline on the engine
or exhaust pipe while the engine is hot. Wipe up spills promptly.
If gasoline is swallowed or splashed in the eyes, seek a doctor’s
advice immediately.
12
– If the engine runs without throttle during longer downhill travel,
the engine should be accelerated occasionally to ensure that
it is supplied with sufficient lubricant which is mixed in the
fuel.
– In the event that, while riding on your motorcycle, you notice
any unusual operation-related noise, stop immediately, turn the
engine off, and contact an authorized KTM dealer.
– Only use premium-grade gasoline ROZ 98 respectively 95
mixed with high-grade two-stroke engine oil. Other types of gaso-
line can cause engine failure.
– Do not use premixed two-stroke oils, oils for outboard engines
or normal engine oil to prepare the mixture.
– Do not use gasoline and oil mixtures that are older than one
week. The lubrication properties of some two-stroke oils can
deteriorate very rapidly.
– Only use known brands of high-grade 2-stroke engine oil (i.e.
Motorex Cross Power 2T).
– Never mix synthetic oils and mineral oils.
– Not enough oil or low-grade oil can cause erosion of the pis-
ton. when Using too much oil, the engine may start smoking
and foul the spark plug.
Braking
Turn off the gas and apply the hand and foot brakes at the same
time. When driving on sandy, wet or slippery ground, use mainly
the rear wheel brake. Always brake with feeling, blocking wheels
can cause you to skid or fall. Also change down to lower gears depend-
ing on your speed.
– If your motorcycle is equipped with a catalytic converter, always
keep in mind that leaded fuel will destroy the catalytic converter.
– Fuel expands when its temperature rises. Therefore do not fill
the tank to the top. (see fig.)
– The tank cap's locking mechanism always has to snap into place
when it is mounted.
– In case of rain, after washing the motorcycle, after rides through
water and in case of rides on wet off-road tracks, humid or dirty
brake discs can delay the braking effect. The brakes must be
pulled until they are dry or clean.
– Rides on salt-strewed or dirty roads can also delay the
braking effect. The brakes must be pulled until they are clean.
– Dirty brake discs cause increased tear of brake pads and brake
discs.
– When you brake, the brake discs, brake pads, brake caliper and
brake fluid heat up. The hotter these parts get, the weaker the
breaking effect. In extreme cases, the entire braking system
can fail.
– If the resistance in the hand brake lever or foot brake pedal
feels “spongy” (too much give), this is an indication that some-
thing is wrong with the brake system. Don’t ride your motorcy-
cle anymore without first having the brake system looked over
by a KTM dealer.
35 mm
Stopping and parking
Close the throttle and apply the hand and foot brake simultane-
ously. Be especially careful when you apply the brakes on sandy,
wet or slick surfaces. Always apply the brakes intuitively, locked
wheels can cause the bike to skid or crash. Shift down to a lower
gear to match your speed. Always apply the brakes before you enter
a curve.
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PERIODIC MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE »
125/144/250 SX 2008
A CLEAN MOTORCYCLE CAN BE CHECKED MORE QUICKLY WHICH SAVES MONEY
z
z
Check gear box oil level
z
z
z
z
z
Change gear box oil
Check spark plugs, adjust distance between electrodes
Renew spark plugs
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
Clean the spark-plug connector and check for a tight fit
Check the screws on the kick starter and shift lever for a tight fit
Check the carburetor connection boot and intake flange for cracks or leaks
Check idle speed setting
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
Check that vent hoses are not damaged or bent
Check cooling system for leaks, check quantity of antifreeze
Check exhaust system for leaks and fitment
z
z
z
z
Check cables for damage, smooth operation, bends; adjust and lubricate
Check the fluid level in the master cylinder of the hydraulic clutch
Clean air filter and filter box
z
z
z
Check electric wires for damage and bends
13
Check headlamp setting
z
Check function of electric systems (low beam, high beam, break light, indicator,
indicator lamps, speedometer illumination, horn, emergency OFF switch or button
Check brake fluid level, lining thickness, brake lining
Check brake lines for damage and leaks
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
Check/adjust the function, smooth operation and free travel of the hand/foot brake lever
Check the screws and guide bolts on the brake system for a tight fit
Check shock absorber and fork for leaks and function
Clean dust bellows
z
z
z
Bleed fork legs
Check swing arm bearings
z
z
Check/adjust steering head bearings
Check tightness of all chassis screws (triple clamps, fork leg axle passage
axle nuts and screws, swing arm bearings, shock absorber)
Check spoke tension and rim joint
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
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z
z
z
Check tires and air pressure
Check chain, rear sprockets and chain guides for wear, fitment and tension
Lubricate chain, Clean and grease the adjusting screws on the chain tensioner
Check clearance of wheel bearings
The kilometer reading for inspection intervals should not exceed 5 hours.
Maintenance work performed by your authorized KTM workshop is not a substitute for care and maintenance by the driver!
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PERIODIC MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE »
125/144/250 SX 2008
IMPORTANT SERVICE WORK THAT MUST BE PERFORMED BY AN AUTHORIZED KTM WORKSHOP
UNDER A SEPARATE ORDER
z
Clean and adjust carburetor
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
Replace the throttle slide, jet needle, float needle valve, needle nozzle
Check the reed-type intake valve for wear
Check the wear on the clutch disks and length of the clutch springs
Check the cylinder and piston for wear
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
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Check function of exhaust control
z
Check piston pin bearing
Replace the crankshaft main bearings
z
z
Replace the conrod bearings
Check the entire transmission, the shift mechanism and bearings
Complete maintenance of fork
z
z
z
z
z
Complete maintenance of shock absorber
Clean and grease steering head bearings and gasket elements
Replace the sealing cup for the foot brake cylinder
Replace the glass-fiber yarn filling in the silencer
Treat electric contacts and switches with contact grease
Change break fluid
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
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z
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z
14
z
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z
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Change the hydraulic clutch oil
Note:If the inspection establishes that permissible tolerances are exceeded, the respective components must be replaced.
125/144/250 SX 2008
IMPORTANT CHECKS AND MAINTENANCE TO BE CARRIED OUT BY THE RIDER
z
z
z
z
z
Check gear box oil level
Check brake fluid level
Check brake pads for wear
Check lights for function
Check horn for function
z
Lubricate and adjust cables and nipples
Bleed fork legs regulary
z
z
z
z
Remove and clean dust bellows regularly
Clean and lubricate chain, check tension and adjust if necessary
Clean air filter and filter box
z
z
z
z
z
Check tires for pressure and wear
Check cooling liquid level
Check fuel lines for leaks
z
z
z
Empty and clean float chamber
Remove, clean and oil the throttle slide
Check all control elements for smooth operation
Check brake performance
z
z
z
z
Treat blank metal parts (with the exception of brake and exhaust systems)
with wax-based anti corrosion agent
Treat ignition and steering locks and light switches with contact spray
Check tightness of screws, nuts and hose clamps regularly
z
z
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Maintenance and adjusting work marked with an asterisk * requires expert skills and technical know-how. For your own safety, always
have such work performed by a specialized KTM dealer where your motorcycle will be optimally serviced by appropriately qualified,
skilled staff.
– If using a power washer, do not point the water jet at the electric components, plugs, cables, bearings, carburetor, etc. The high
pressure will cause water to penetrate into the components and can cause them to malfunction or lead to premature wear.
– When transporting your KTM, ensure that it is held upright with restraining straps or other mechanical fastening devices and that
the fuel tap is in the OFF position - if the motorcycle should fall over, no fuel can leak from the carburetor or fuel tank
– Only use special screws with an appropriate thread length supplied by KTM to fix the spoilers on the tank. Using other screws or
longer screws can cause leaks in the tank through which fuel can flow out.
– Do not use toothed washers or spring rings with the engine fastening screws, as these work into the frame parts and keep working
loose. Instead, use self-locking nuts.
– If you unscrewed any screwed connections with self-locking nuts, they must be replaced when mounting. If no self-locking nuts
are available, apply Loctite 243 to the thread. The screws and nuts must be replaced if the thread is damaged.
– All screws and nuts must be tightened to the specified torque figures using a torque wrench. If screws or nuts are not adequately
tightened, they can become loose and cause the motorcycle to go out of control while you drive. Tightening the screws and nuts
too tightly can damage the thread and components.
– Let your motorcycle cool down before beginning any maintenance work in order to avoid getting burned.
– Dispose of oils, fatty matters, filters, fuels, washing detergents, etc. properly.
– Under no circumstances may used oil be disposed of in the sewage system or in the open countryside. 1 liter of used oil contam-
inates 1,000,000 liters of water.
15
Changing the spring preloading of the shock absorber
The spring preload can be changed by turning the adjusting ring [1]. For this
purpose, you should dismount the shock absorber and clean it thoroughly.
NOTE:
– Before changing the spring preload note down the basic setting, e.g. how
many threads are visible above the adjusting ring.
– One rotation of the adjusting ring [1] changes the spring pretension by
2
approximately 1.00 mm (0.04 in).
Loosen the clamping screw [2] and use the hook wrench contained in the
vehicle tool set to turn the adjusting ring as desired. Turning it counterclock-
wise will reduce the preload, turning it clockwise will increase the preload.
After readjusting the clamping screw [2], tighten it to 8 Nm (6 ft.lb)
1
ADJUSTMENT VALUES – SPRING PRELOAD [A]
A
Typ WP Suspension 12187D01 . . . . . . . 5 mm (0.19 in)
Typ WP Suspension 12187D03 . . . . . . . 5 mm (0.19 in)
Pivot bearing
The pivot bearing [3] for PDS suspension struts at the swinging fork is Teflon-
coated and must not be lubricated with either grease or other lubricants. Grease
and other lubricants cause the Teflon coat to dissolve, whereby the bearing’s
lifecycle will be reduced dramatically.
When cleaning your bike with a high-pressure cleaner, do not aim the high-
pressure spray directly at the pivot bearing.
3
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Basic suspension setup for the weight of the driver
To achieve maximum handling performance and to prevent the fork, shock
absorber, swing arm and frame from being damaged, the basic setup of the
suspension components must be suitable for your weight. At delivery, KTM's
offroad motorcycles are set to accommodate a driver weighing 75 bis 85 kg
(wearing full protective clothing). If your weight exceeds or falls short of this
range, you will need to adjust the basic setup for the suspension components
accordingly. Minor deviations in weight can be compensated by adjusting the
spring preload. Different springs must be installed for larger deviations.
A
Checking the shock absorber and spring
You can establish whether or not the shock absorber spring is suitable for your
weight by checking the riding sag. The static slag must be correctly adjusted
before the riding sag can be determined.
Determining the static sag of the shock absorber
The static sag should be as close as possible to 33 mm. Deviations of more
than 2 mm can strongly influence the motorcycle's performance.
Procedure:
– Jack up the motorcycle until the rear wheel no longer touches the ground.
– Measure the vertical distance between the rear wheel axle and a fixed point
(e.g. a mark on the side cover) and write it down as dimension A.
– Place the motorcycle on the ground again.
– Ask a helper to hold the motorcycle in vertical position.
– Measure the distance between the rear axle and the fixed point again to
establish dimension B.
B
16
– The static sag is the difference between dimensions A and B.
EXAMPLE:
Motorcycle jacked up (dimension A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .600 mm
Motorcycle on ground, unloaded (dimension B) . . . . . . . . . . . .– 567 mm
Static sag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 mm
If the static sag is lower, the spring preload of the shock absorber must be
increased, if the static sag is reduced, the spring preload must be higher. See
chapter "Changing the spring preload of the shock absorber."
Determining the riding sag of the shock absorber
– Have a helper hold the motorcycle while you sit on the bike in a normal
seating position (feet on the footrests) wearing full protective clothing and
bounce up and down a few times to allow the rear wheel suspension to
become level.
– Stay on the bike and have another person measure the distance between
the same two points and write it down as dimension C.
– The riding sag is the difference between dimensions A and C.
C
EXAMPLE:
Motorcycle jacked up (dimension A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .600 mm
Motorcycle on ground, loaded (dimension C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .– 493 mm
Riding sag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107 mm
The riding sag should lie between 102 and 112 mm.
If the riding sag is less than 102 mm, the spring is too hard (the spring rate
is too high). If the riding sag is more than 112 mm, the spring is too soft (the
spring rate is too low).
The spring rate is written on the outside of the spring (e.g. 66-250). The type
number of the shock absorber is embossed on the front of the shock absorber.The
illustrations show which spring should be installed. The standard spring is
shown in bold print .
for example 250 SX
69-250
66-250
After installing a different spring, readjust the static sag to 33 mm (± 2 mm).
63-250
70
According to our experience, the damping rate of the compression stage can
remain unchanged. The damping rate of the rebound stage can be reduced
by a few clicks for a softer spring or increased by a few clicks for a harder
spring.
65
75
80
85
90
95
Riders weight inclusive gears in kilogram
MODELL
SOFTER
STANDARD HARDER
12187D01 (125/144 SX) 57-250 60-250
63-250
69-250
12187D03 (250 SX) 63-250 66-250
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Checking the basic setup of the telescopic fork
The precise riding sag of the telescopic fork cannot be determined for vari-
ous reasons. Similar to the shock absorber, smaller deviations in your weight
can be compensated by adjusting the spring preload. However, if your tele-
scopic fork bumps frequently (hard end stop during compression), you should
install harder fork springs to avoid damaging the telescopic fork and frame.
Changing the spring preload on the telescopic fork
The telescopic forks for these models must be partly disassembled to adjust
the spring preload. Pretension spacers are available in heights of 1.5, 2.5, 5
and 10 mm (see spare parts catalog). The fork springs may not be preten-
sioned by more than 20 mm.
NOTE:
WP precisely adjusts the spring pressure by inserting pretension spacers.
Fluctuations in production are compensated with pretension spacers in vari-
ous heights. This can cause the fork springs in the fork legs to have different
degrees of pretension. Fork springs and pretension spacers should always stay
together.
for example 250 SX
4,6 N/mm
4,4 N/mm
4,2 N/mm
70
Replacing fork springs
65
75
80
85
90
95
If you weigh less than 75 kg or more than 85 kg, you should install the respec-
tive fork springs. The correct spring rate is shown in the illustrations. The stan-
dard spring is shown in bold print. The type number of the telescopic fork is
embossed on the inside of the fork leg axle passage.
Riders weight inclusive gears in kilogram
MODELL
SOFTER
STANDARD HARDER
If you are uncertain which spring to use, contact your KTM workshop.
432.485.00.040W 432.485.00.042W 432.485.00.044W
12187D01 (125/144 SX)
12187D03 (250 SX)
According to our experience, the damping rate of the compression stage can
remain unchanged. The damping rate of the rebound stage can be reduced
by a few clicks for a softer spring or increased by a few clicks for a harder
spring.
17
432.485.00.042W 432.485.00.044W 432.485.00.046W
1
Breather plug front fork
After every 5 hours of use for competitive racing, slacken the breather
plugs [1] a few turns in order to relieve excess pressure from the inside of the
fork. To do this, place the motorcycle on a stand with the front wheel lifted
off the ground. When riding the motorcycle mainly on the road, it will suffice
to have this job performed in the course of the periodical maintenance
service.
Excessive pressure in the interior of the fork can cause leaks in the fork. If
your fork is leaking, it is recommended to open the breather plugs before hav-
ing the seals replaced.
Cleaning the dust sleeves of the telescopic fork
The dust-protection bellows [2] are to remove dust and coarse dirt particles
from the fork tube. However, after some time, dirt may also get in behind the
dust-protection bellows. If this dirt is not removed, the oil sealing rings located
behind it may start to leak.
Remove the screws [3] from the fork protector and allow the fork protector to
hang down. Pry the dust boot out of the outer tubes and push down.
3
3
3
Thoroughly clean the dust boots, slide rings, outer tubes and fork tubes and
oil generously with Universal oil spray (Motorex Joker 440) or engine oil. Press
the dust boots into the outer tubes by hand. Position the fork protectors, mount
the screws and torque to 10 Nm.
No oil may reach the front tire or the brake disks since this would consider-
ably reduce the tire's road grip and the braking effect of the front brake.
2
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Changing the fork offset (caster
The fork offset [A] in the SX models (center fork legs - center steering head
angle) can be set to either 18 or 20 mm. This allows you to optimize the han-
dling to match the race course.
Remove the blind screw [1] to see which offset is set. If the mark [B] is in
front, the offset is 18 mm. This setting will deliver more directional stability
on fast race courses.
A
If the mark [B] is in the rear as illustrated, the offset is 20 mm. This setting
will deliver better handling in curves.
B
The offset is set to 20 mm in the condition at delivery.
1
5
3
4
2
18
To adjust the offset, dismount the front wheel and remove the front wheel
fender.
Remove the screw on the starting number plate. Remove the clamp screws
on the hand brake cylinder and fasten the hand brake cylinder to the left fork
leg with a cable tie to keep the brake line from kinking (see illustration).
Loosen the clamp screws and take the fork legs out of the triple clamps.
Loosen the collar screw [2] on the lower triple clamp 2 turns.
Remove the blind screw [1] from the upper triple clamp, loosen the clamp
screw and upper triple clamp on the seat. Remove the O-ring [3] and the pro-
tection ring [4].
3
Tap gently on the lower triple clamp with a rubber hammer to loosen the steer-
ing stem [5] out of the bearing seat. Take the lower triple clamp with the steer-
ing stem out of the steering head.
4
2
Remove the collar screw from the lower triple clamp and pull out the steer-
ing stem. Thoroughly clean all parts. Turn the steering stem 180° and insert
it in the triple clamp, tighten the collar screw all the way to the stop.
Grease the steering head bearing and sealing elements.
5
Be sure to lock the thread on the collar screw [2] with Loctite 243. Do not
confuse the collar screw [2] with the blind screw [1].
2
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Mount the lower triple clamp, upper steering head bearing, protection ring,
O-ring, upper triple clamp and the blind screw.
Tighten the collar screw on the lower triple clamp to 60 Nm.
Mount the fork legs and tighten the clamp screws on the lower triple clamp
to 12 Nm in 3 stages.
Adjust the steering head bearing with zero clearance (see section on check-
ing and adjusting the steering head support). Hold the middle clamp screw
[A] in place with Loctite 243. Tighten the clamp screws on the upper triple
clamp to 17 Nm in 3 stages.
Hold the middle clamp screw [A] in place with Loctite 243.
A
Mount the front wheel fender and tighten the screws to 10 Nm.
Mount the hand brake cylinder and tighten the screws to 10 Nm.
Mount the staring number plate.
Mount the front wheel (see: Dismounting and mounting the front wheel).
19
Checking and adjusting the steering head bearing *
Check steering head bearing for play periodically. To check, put the motorcy-
cle on a stand so that the front wheel is off the ground. Now try to move the
fork forward and backward. To adjust the 5 clamping screws [1] and [3], loosen
the upper triple clamp and turn the end screw [2] until no play is left. Don’t
tighten the steering stem bolt all the way, otherwise the bearings will be dam-
aged. With a plastic hammer, lightly tap on the triple clamp to release ten-
sion. Hold the middle clamp screw [3] in place with Loctite 243. Retighten
the five pinch bolts.
2
17 Nm (pinch bolts 1)
Loctite 243 + 17 Nm (pinch bolts 3)
1
1
3
– If the steering head bearing is not adjusted to be free of play, the motorcy-
cle will exhibit unsteady driving characteristics and can get out of control.
–
Hold the midddle clamp screw [3] in place with Loctite 243.
If you drive with play in the steering head bearing for longer periods, the bear-
ings and subsequently the bearing seats in the frame will be destroyed.
The steering head bearings should be regreased at least once a year
(e.g. Motorex Long Term 2000).
How to change the handlebar position
The handlebar position can be readjusted by 22 mm. Thus, you can put the
handlebar in the position that is the most convenient for you.
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
The upper triple clamp [1] includes 2 bores arranged at a distance of 15 mm
(0.6 in) from one another. The bores at the handlebar support [2] are offset
from the center by 3.5 mm (0.13 in). Accordingly, you can mount the han-
dlebar in 4 different positions.
3
4
For this purpose, remove screws [3] of the handlebar clamps and screws [4]
of the handlebar support. Position the handlebar support, and tighten screws
[4] to 40 Nm (30 ft.lbs). Mount the handlebar and handlebar clamps, and
tighten screws [3] to 20 Nm (15 ft.lbs). The gap between the handlebar sup-
port and the handlebar clamps should be the same size in the front and in
the rear.
LOCTITE 243
LOCTITE 243
2
15 mm
3.5 mm
1
The screws [4] must be secured with loctite 243.
Check chain tension
Jack the motorcycle up on its frame so that the rear wheel no longer touches
the ground.
A
Press the chain upward at the end of the chain sliding component. The dis-
tance between the chain and the swing arm should be approx. 8 - 10 mm
(0.31 - 0.39 in). In the course of this procedure, the upper chain portion [A]
must be taut (see drawing). If necessary, correct the chain tension.
– If the chain tension is too great, parts within the secondary transmission
(chain, chain wheels and rear wheel bearings) will be subjected to unnec-
essary stress, resulting in premature wear and even chain breakage.
– Too much slack in the chain, on the other hand, can result in the chain
jumping off the chain wheels. If this happens, the chain could also block
the rear wheel or damage the engine.
20
– In either case the operator is likely to lose control of the motorcycle.
Adapting the chain guide to the number of rear sprocket teeth
NOTE:
The position of the chain guide must be adjusted due to the large number of
rear sprockets available. Up to 44 teeth, insert the retaining screw on the
chain guide in the lower hole [C], from 45 teeth in the upper hole [D].
5
6
Loosen the screw [5] and remove screw [6]. Tilt the chain guide down and
insert the collard bush [7] in the respective hole.
Tighten the screws to 10 Nm.
C
7
B
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Correct chain tension
Loosen collar nut [1], loosen lock nuts [2], and turn right and left adjusting
screws [3] equally far. Tighten lock nuts.
3
To ensure the correct alignment of the rear wheel, the marks at the left and
right chain adjusters must be positioned identically in relation to the
reference marks [B]. Tighten the counter nut of the adjusting screws.
Before tightening the collar nut, verify that the chain adjusters [4] are sitting
close to the adjusting screws and that the rear wheel has been aligned with
the front wheel.
B
2
Tighten collar nut [1] to 80 Nm (60 ft.lb).
4
1
– If you don’t happen to have a torque wrench at hand, make sure you have
the tightening torque corrected by a KTM dealer as soon as possible. A
loose axle may lead to an unstable driving behavior of your motorcycle.
– Tighten the collar nut with the required torque. A loose wheel spindle may
lead to an unstable behavior of your motorcycle.
3
NOTE:
B
The large adjusting range of the chain adjusters (32mm / 1.25 in) allows you
to use different secondary ratios in combination with the same chain length.
The chain adjusters [4] can be rotated by 180°.
2
Always mount the chain tensioner equally aligned.
4
21
Chain maintenance
For a long chain life, good maintenance is very important. Chains without
X-rings should be cleaned in fireproof solvent regularly and afterwards treated
with hot grease or chain spray (e.g. Motorex Chainlube 622)..
No lubrication is allowed to reach the rear tire or the brake disk, eitherwise
the road adherence and the rear wheel braking effects would be strongly reduced
and the motorcycle could easily get out of control.
When mounting the chain joint, the closed side of the safety device must point
in running direction.
Also check sprockets and chain guides for wear, and replace if necessary.
15 KG
33 lbs
Chain wear
To check the chain wear, observe the following indications:
Shift the gear into idling and pull the upper chain strand with approx. 10-15
kilograms (33 lb) upwards (see figure). Now one can measure a space of 18
chain reels at the lower chain strand. The chain should be replaced at the lat-
est when a space of 272 mm (10.70 in) is measured. Chains do not always
wear off evenly, therefore repeat the measurement at different places on the
chain.
NOTE:
If you mount a new chain, the sprockets should also be replaced. New chains
wear faster if used on old used sprockets.
When you assemble a rear sprocket with 14t, the collar must be on the inside.
Secure the screws of the chain wheel by applying Loctite and fasten them in
a crosswise order.
max. 272 mm
Tightening torque for nuts: 35 Nm
Tightening torque for screws: 50 Nm
1 2 3
16 17 18
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
General information about KTM disc brakes
BRAKE CALIPERS:
The brake calipers of this series use a „floating“ mount. This means that the
brake calipers are not solidly attached to the caliper support, which enables
them to ”float” for maximum braking contact.Secure the screws of the caliper
support with Loctite 243 and tighten to 25 Nm (19 ft.lb).
BRAKE PADS:
The brake pads are fitted with TOSHIBA TT 2701HHB sintered lining at the
front and TOYO B 143 FF sintered lining at the back. These linings provide
an optimal combination of dosing, brake performance and life cycle.
22
BRAKE DISCS:
Due to wear, the thickness of the brake disc in the area of the contact
face [1] of the brake pads decreases. The brake disk must be at least
2.50 mm (front) / 3.50 mm (rear) thick at the thinnest point [A]. Check the
thickness of the brake disk at several points.
A
– A brake disk worn down to less than 2.50 mm (Front) / 3.50 mm (Rear)
is a safety risk. Have the brake disk replaced as soon as it reaches the
service limit.
– Have any repairs on the brake system be performed by a KTM dealer.
1
BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIRS:
The brake fluid reservoirs on the front and rear wheel brakes have been
designed in such a way that even if the brake pads are worn it is not neces-
sary to top up the brake fluid. If the brake fluid level drops below the mini-
mum level either the brake system has a leak or the brake pads are completely
worn.
In this case, consult an authorized KTM dealer immediately.
BRAKE FLUID:
We recommend that you use Motorex DOT 5.1 brake fluid when you refill or
change the brake fluid. DOT 5. 1 brake fluid has a wet boiling point of 180°C
/ 356°F (25°C / 45°F higher than DOT 4) and is safer for high performance
applications. Brake fluid DOT 5.1 is a polyethylene glycol based fluid, amber-
colored and can be mixed with DOT 4 brake fluid. Do not, in any event, use
DOT 5 brake fluid. It is based on silicone oil and is dyed purple. KTM motor-
cycle gaskets and brake hoses are not designed for DOT 5 brake fluid.
Brake fluid is exposed to a high thermal load and absorbs moisture from the
air, which lowers the boiling point. The brake fluid should therefore be changed
at the prescribed intervals.
Have the brake fluid changed at least once annually. If you wash your motor-
cycle often, the brake fluid should be changed even more frequently. Brake
fluid tends to absorb water. Therefore, vapor pockets may form in „old“ brake
fluids even at low temperatures, causing the brake system to fail.
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Adjusting the free travel at the hand brake lever
Free travel at the hand brake lever may be readjusted by using adjustment
screw [1]. In this way, the position of the point of pressure (i.e. the resis-tance
you feel on the hand brake lever when the brake pads are pressed against the
brake disc) can be adjusted for any hand size.
When you press the hand brake lever forwards, you should have at least
3 mm free travel. Turn the adjusting screw [1] if necessary.
min. 3 mm
1
At the hand brake lever, free travel must at least be 3 mm (0.1 in). Only then
may the piston in the hand brake cylinder be moved (to be recognized by the
greater resistance of the hand brake lever). If this free travel is not provided,
pressure will build up in the braking system, and the front-wheel brake may
fail due to overheating.
Checking the brake fluid level - front brake
The brake fluid reservoir is linked with the hand brake cylinder at the
handlebar and the reservoir is provided with an inspection glass. With the reser-
voir in a horizontal position, the brake fluid level should not drop below the
middle of the glass.
If the brake fluid level drops below the minimum either the brake system has
a leak or the brake pads are completely worn. In this case, consult an author-
ized KTM dealer immediately.
23
Refilling the front brake fluid reservoir *
Loosen screws [2] and remove lid [3] and membrane [4].
2
Place hand brake cylinder in a horizontal position and fill the brake fluid reser-
voir to 5 mm (0.2 in) below the rim with clean brake fluid DOT 5.1 (e.g. Motorex
Brake Fluid DOT 5.1). Replace membrane and lid, tighten screws. Rinse off
spilled or overflowing brake fluid with water.
3
– Never use DOT5 brake fluid! It is based on silicone oil and of a
purple color. Seals and brake hoses must be especially adapted to it.
– Store brake fluid out of reach of children.
– Brake fluid can cause skin irritation. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. If
you get brake fluid in your eyes, rinse with plenty of water and consult a
doctor
4
– Don’t let brake fluid get in contact with paint, it is an effective paint remover.
– Use only clean brake fluid taken from a tightly sealed container.
5 mm
Checking the front brake pads
The brake pads can be inspected from below. The linings must be at least 1
mm (0.04 in) thick.
min.
1 mm
At their most worn point brake pad linings should not be thinner than 1 mm,
otherwise they could lead to brake failure. For your own safety don’t put off
having your brake pads changed.
If the brake pads are replaced too late so that the lining is partly or entirely
worn, the steel components of the brake pad will rub against the brake disc,
thereby imparing the braking effect and destroying the brake disc.
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Replacing the front brake pads *
Press the brake caliper toward the brake disk, to put the brake piston in its
basic position. Remove clips [1] and pull out bolt [2]. Remove brake pads
from the brake caliper. Clean the brake caliper and the brake caliper support
with compressed air. Check the sleeves of the guide bolts for damage, and
grease guide bolts if necessary.
1
Mount the right brake pad and fix it with the bolt. Mount the left brake pad
and insert the bolt until it stops. Mount the clips.
When mounting the brake pads, be sure to check for correct fit of the
sliding metal-sheet [3] in the caliper support and of the leaf spring [4].
– It is very important to keep the brake disk free from oil and fatty matters.
Otherwise, the braking effect would be strongly reduced.
2
1
– After assembly, check if circlips have been fitted correctly.
– after working on the braking system, always actuate the hand brake lever
or foot brake lever, respectively to ensure that the brake pads will lie against
the brake disk and the pressure point is established.
4
3
2
24
Checking the rear brake fluid level
The reservoir for the rear brake disk is located on the right side of the motor-
cycle on the rear brake cylinder.
No air bubble should be visible in inspection glass [A] when the vehicle is
parked in a vertical position.
If the brake fluid level drops below the minimum either the brake system has
a leak or the brake pads are completely worn. In this case, consult an author-
ized KTM dealer immediately.
A
Refilling the rear brake fluid reservoir *
Add brake fluid as soon as a bubble is visible in inspection glass [A].
To top up, remove screw [5]. Fill DOT5.1 brake fluid (e.g. Motorex Brake Fluid
5.1) up to the mark [B] on the inside of the reservoir and remount the screw.
Spilled brake fluid must be rinsed off with water.
5
– Never use DOT5 brake fluid! It is based on silicone oil and of a purple
color. Seals and brake hoses must be especially adapted to it.
– Store brake fluid out of reach of children.
– Brake fluid can cause skin irritation. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. If
you get brake fluid in your eyes, rinse with plenty of water and consult a
doctor.
– Don’t let brake fluid get in contact with paint, it is an effective paint remover.
– Use only clean brake fluid taken from a tightly sealed container.
B
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Changing the basic position of the foot brake pedal *
4
To change the basic position of the foot brake lever, loosen the counternut
[1] and turn the stop screw [2] as needed. Be sure to adjust the free travel
of the foot brake lever. Measured on the outside, the foot brake lever should
have 3-5 mm free travel before the piston rod moves the piston in the foot
brake cylinder (you will feel the stronger resistance of the foot brake lever).
Loosen the counternut [3] and turn the pushrod [4] as needed.
3
The brake system will build up pressure if there is no free travel on the foot
brake lever. This will cause the brake pads to grind. The brake system will
overheat and can break down entirely in extreme cases.
1
2
3-5mm
25
Checking the rear brake pads
The brake pads can be inspected from the rear. The thickness of the linings
may not be less than 1 mm (0.04 in).
min.
1 mm
At their most worn point brake pad linings should not be thinner than 1 mm,
otherwise they could lead to brake failure. For your own safety don’t put off
having your brake pads changed.
If the brake pads are replaced too late so that the lining is partly or entirely
worn, the steel components of the brake pad will rub against the brake disc,
thereby imparing the braking effect and destroying the brake disc.
Replacing the rear brake pads *
6
6
5
Press the brake caliper [5] in the direction of the chain wheel for the brake
piston to reach its basic position. Remove the safety device [6], knock out
the guide pin [7] from the brake caliper with a drift towards the chain wheel
and remove the brake pads. Carefully clean the brake caliper with compressed
air and check the sleeves of the guide pins for damage.
Slide the left brake pad into the brake caliper and fix it with the pin. Slide in
the right brake pad and knock the bolt [7] in as far as it will go. Mount the
safety device [6].
7
– It is very important to keep the brake disk free from oil and fatty matters.
Otherwise, the braking effect would be strongly reduced.
– After assembly, check if circlips have been fitted correctly.
– After working on the braking system, one must always actuate the hand
brake lever or foot brake lever, respectively so as to ensure that the brake
pads will lie against the brake disk and the pressure point is established.
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Dismounting and mounting the front wheel
To remove the front wheel, jack the motorcycle up on its frame so that the
front wheel no longer touches the ground.
Loosen the collar screw [1] and the clamping screws [2] on both fork leg axle
passages.
2
Unscrew the collar screw approx 8 turns, press on the collar screw with your
hand to push the wheel spindle out of the fork leg axle passage and remove
the collar screw. Hold the front wheel while you pull out the wheel spindle.
Lift the front wheel off the fork.
1
– Do not operate the hand brake when the front wheel has been dismounted.
– Make sure the brake disc is always on top when you lay down the wheel,
otherwise the brake disc can be damaged.
2
3
26
Before remounting the front wheel, clean and grease the shaft seal rings [A]
and the bearing surface [B] of the distance bushings and mount the distance
bushing.
B
A
To install the front wheel, lift it into the fork, position and mount the axle
shaft [3]. Mount the collar nut [1], tighten the clamping screws [2] on the
right fork leg axle passage to prevent the axle shaft from turning and tighten
the collar nut to 40 Nm (30ft.lb).
2
Loosen the clamp screws on the right fork leg. Take the motorcycle down from
its stand. Press the front wheel brakes and push down on the fork a few times
vigorously so that the fork legs come into alignment.
3
Only after this has been accomplished, tighten the clamp screws on both fork
legs with 15 Nm(7 ft. lbs).
– If you don’t happen to have a torque wrench at hand, make sure you have
the tightening torque corrected by a KTM dealer as soon as possible. A
loose axle may lead to an unstable driving behavior of your motorcycle.
– After mounting the front wheel, keep operating the hand brake until the
pressure point returns.
– It is very important to keep the brake disk free from oil and fatty matters,
otherwise the braking effect would be strongly reduced.
2
1
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Dismounting and mounting the rear wheel
Jack the motorcycle up on its frame so that the rear wheel no longer touches
the ground.
Remove the collar nut [1], remove the chain tensioner [2] and pull out the
wheel spindle [3] until you can push the rear wheel forwards.
Take the chain off the rear sprocket, pull out the wheel spindle and carefully
remove the rear wheel from the swing arm.
– Do not operate the rear brake when the rear wheel has been
dismounted.
– Make sure the brake disc is always on top when you lay down the wheel,
otherwise the brake disc can be damaged.
2
1
– If the axle is dismounted, clean the thread of the wheel spindle and col-
lar nut thoroughly and apply a new coat of grease to prevent the thread
from jamming.
3
27
The rear wheel is remounted in the reverse order. Before tightening the col-
lar nut to 80 Nm (60 ft.lb), push the rear wheel forwards so that the chain
tensioners lie on the tension screws.
– If you don’t happen to have a torque wrench at hand, make sure you have
the tightening torque corrected by a KTM dealer as soon as possible. A
loose axle may lead to an unstable driving behavior of your motorcycle.
– After mounting the rear wheel, keep operating the rear brake until the pres-
sure point returns.
– It is very important to keep the brake disk free from oil and fatty matters,
otherwise the braking effects would be strongly reduced.
– Tighten the collar nut with the required torque. A loose wheel spindle may
lead to an unstable behavior of your motorcycle.
Tires, air pressure
Tire type, tire condition, and air pressure level affect the way your motorcy-
cle rides and must therefore be checked whenever you are getting ready to go
anywhere on your motorcycle.
– Tire size can be found in the technical specifications and in the homolo-
gation certificate
– Tire condition has to be checked every time you want to ride your motor-
cycle. Before leaving, check tires for punctures and nails or other sharp
objects that might have become embedded in them.
– Refer to the specific regulations in your country for minimum tire tread
requirements. We recommend you replace the tires at the latest when the
tread is down to 2 mm (0.08 in).
– Tire pressure should be checked regularly on a “cold” tire. Proper pres-
sure ensures optimum driving comfort and extends the life of your tires.
TIRES - AIR PRESSURE
– Do not mount tires which have not been approved by KTM. Other tires
could have adverse effects on the way your motorcycle behaves.
– front and rear wheels may only be fitted with tires having the same tread
layout. Use homologated tires
front
rear
1,0 bar
Offroad
1,0 bar
– For your own safety replace damaged tires immediately.
– Worn tires can have a negative effect on how your motorcycle performs,
especially on wet surfaces
– If air pressure is too low, abnormal wear and overheating of the tire can
result
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Checking spoke tension
The correct spoke tension is very important for the stability of the wheels and
thus for riding safety. A loose spoke causes the wheel to become
unbalanced and before long other spokes will have come loose. Check spoke
tension, especially on a new motorcycle, at regular intervals. For checking,
tap on each spoke with the blade of a screwdriver (see photo). A clear tone
must be the result. Dull tones are indicators of loose spokes. If necessary,
have the spokes retightened and the wheel centered by a KTM dealer.
– Spokes can tear if you continue to ride with them loose. This may lead to
an unstable handling of your motorcycle.
– Excessively tensioned spokes may rupture due to local overloading.The
spokes must be tensioned to 5 Nm.
Cooling system
The water pump [1] in the engine circulates the cooling liquid. The cooling
liquid is cooled by the air stream. This means that the cooling effect decreases
with the traveling speed. Dirty radiators additionally reduce the cooling effect.
Pressure induced by heating of the coolant in the system is controlled by a
valve in the radiator cap [2]; a water temperature rising up to 120° C
(248° F) is admissible, without fear of problems.
28
– If possible, always check level of cooling liquid when engine is cold. If
you have to open the radiator cap [2] when the engine is hot, use a rag to
cover the cap and open slowly to release pressure.
1
1
Caution - scalding hazard.
– Do not detach any radiator hoses while the engine is hot. The escaping
hot coolant and the steam may cause serious burns.
– In case you get burnt, hold the affected part of your body under running
cold water right away.
– Coolant is toxic. Keep the coolant out of the reach of children.
– In case coolant is ingested, consult a doctor immediately.
– If coolant gets into your eyes, rinse them out with water immediately and
go see a doctor.
Use a mixture of 50% antifreeze and 50% distilled water for the cooling
liquid. The antifreeze should be designed for temperatures of at least -25°C.
This mixture offers frost protection as well as good corrosion protection and
should not be replaced by water alone.
2
For the cooling system, use only with high-grade antifreeze (e.g. Motorex Anti-
Freeze). Using lower-grade antifreeze agents can cause corrosion and coolant
foaming.
Checking the coolant level
The coolant should be 10 mm (0.4 in) above the radiator fins when the engine
is cold (see diagram). In the event of the coolant being drained, always fill
and bleed the system.
10 mm
when engine ist cold
If possible, always check the level of cooling liquid when the engine is cold.
If you have to open the radiator cap when the engine is hot, use a rag to cover
the cap and open slowly to release pressure.
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Bleeding the cooling system
By removing the screw [1] at the water pump cover you can drain the coolant.
To bleed the cooling system, add coolant up to approx. 10 mm above the radi-
ator fins when the engine is cold.
After a short ride, check the coolant level once more.
1
1
29
Cleaning the air filter *
The air filter must be cleaned prior to each race or whenever dust has accu-
mulated. To clean, lift the filter box cover
(see illustration) and pull off towards the front.
Detach the bottom of the filter retaining bracket [2], tilt aside and remove
the air filter [3] and filter support [4] from the filter box.
– Do not clean foam filter with fuel or petroleum since these damage the
foam. KTM recommends the products of the company Motorex for air fil-
ter maintenance (Dirt Bio Remover and Liquid Bio Power).
– Never start your motorcycle without any air filters. otherwise, dust and dirt
may penetrate and cause damage and increased wear.
– Dust and dirt can accumulate and damage the engine if the air filter is
not mounted correctly.
Thoroughly wash the air filter in special cleaning fluid (Motorex Twin Air Dirt
Bio Remover) and allow it to dry well. Only press out the filter, do not wring
it out under any circumstances. Oil the dry air filter with a high-grade filter
oil (Motorex Twin Air Liquid Bio Power). Also clean the air filter box. Check
the carburetor collar for damage and that it is filled correctly.
3
Place the air filter on the filter support and insert both in the center of the
filter box. Hold in place with the filter retaining clip.
2
4
3
2
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Exhaust system *
If the end cap [1] can be removed, the silencer is filled with glass-fiber yarn.
Have the filling checked regularly by an authorized KTM workshop (see
Lubrication and Service Chart). The insulating material fibers escape through
the holes in the perforated pipe with time, causing the silencer to “burn out”.
In addition to causing a higher noise-level, it will also affect the power char-
acteristic. The insulating material suitable for your exhaust is available from
your authorized KTM workshop.
2
To replace the glass-fiber yarn set [2] remove the end cap and pull off the
outer pipe [3]. Tape a new glass-fiber yarn set to the inner tube and slide on
the outer pipe. Mount the end cap.
1
3
Make sure the caps are screwed on tightly. Mount the muffler stress-free before
tightening the fixing screws.
The exhaust system becomes very hot while the motorcycle is running. Do not
start work on the exhaust system until it has properly cooled down, to avoid
burns.
30
Changing the original position of the clutch lever
The adjusting screw [4] can be used for individual adjustment of the original
position of the clutch lever, thus allowing adjustment to an optimal position
for every hand size.
The clutch lever moves closer to the handlebar if the adjusting screw is turned
in a counterclockwise direction. The clutch lever moves away from the han-
dlebar if the adjusting screw is turned in a clockwise direction.
4
Adjustment of the clutch lever position is only possible within certain limits.
Only turn the adjusting screw manually and never apply excessive force.
Checking the oil level of the hydraulic clutch 125/144 SX
To check the oil level in the master cylinder of the clutch remove the cover.
For this purpose, remove screws [5] and cover [6] together with the rubber
boot [7]. The oil level in the horizontal-standing master cylinder should be
4 mm below the upper edge.
If necessary, add SAE 10 biodegradable hydraulic oil (Motorex clutch fluid
75), available from your authorized KTM shop.
5
6
7
KTM uses biodegradable, hydraulic mineral oil to actuate the hydraulic clutch
in 125/144 models. Do not mix this oil with any other hydraulic oil. Always
use original KTM hydraulic oil (available from your authorized KTM workshop)
to make sure your clutch operates smoothly. Never refill with brake fluid.
Checking the oil level of the hydraulic clutch 250 SX
To check the oil level in the master cylinder of the clutch remove the cover.
For this purpose, remove screws [8] and cover together with the rubber boot
[9]. The oil level in the horizontal-standing master cylinder should be
4 mm below the upper edge.
8
If necessary, add DOT 5.1 brake fluid (Motorex Brake Fluid 5.1).
BREMBO clutch fittings are installed in the 250 models and filled with DOT
5.1 brake fluid. To make sure the clutch operates smoothly, never add hydraulic
oil to these systems.
9
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Bleeding the hydraulic clutch *
The clutch control needs to be bled as soon as the resistance in the clutch
lever starts to feel unresponsive. You will need to use a bleeding syringe (spe-
cial tool).
Make sure to use Motorex clutch fluid 75 for the 125/144 SX models and
Motorex DOT. 5.1 brake fluid for the 250 SX models. Both are available from
your KTM dealer.
Turn the handlebar until the master cylinder is in a horizontal position, remove
the screws [1], the cover [2] and the rubber boot [3].
1
2
3
Fill the bleeder syringe [4] with a suitable fluid (see Technical Specifications
- Engine). Remove the bleeder screw from the slave cylinder [5] and mount
the bleeder syringe.
4
5
31
Press oil into the system until the oil runs out of the hole [6] in the master
cylinder without bubbles. Occasionally extract the oil from the master cylin-
der reservoir to keep it from overflowing.
After you finish bleeding, remove the bleeder syringe, mount the bleeder screw,
correct the oil level in the reservoir and mount the cover (see above).
6
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Carburetor adjustment *
Basic information on the original carburetor setting
The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient
temperature of approx. 20° C (68° F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (95 ROZ).
Mixing ratio (2-stroke motor oil/super fuel): 1:40 (125/144 SX), 1:60 (250 SX)
Basic information on changing the carburetor setting
Always start with the original carburetor setting (the provided factory setting is meant for break-in operation; after the break-in period,
the carburetor needs to be adjusted according to the carburetor datasheet - see appendix). Essential requirements are a clean air fil-
ter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the
jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance.
RULE OF THUMB: high altitude or high temperatures > choose leaner carburetor adjustment
low altitude or low temperatures
> choose richer carburetor adjustment
– Only use premium-grade gasoline ROZ 95 (USA = Premium PON 91) mixed with high-grade two-stroke engine oil. Other types of
gasoline can cause engine failure, and will void your warranty.
– Only use high-grade 2-stroke engine oil of known brands (e. g. Motorex Cross Power 2T).
– Not enough oil or low-grade oil can cause erosion of the piston. if you use too much oil the engine can start smoking and foul the
spark plug and the exhaust control system.
– In the case of a leaner adjustment of the carburetor, proceed cautiously. Always reduce the jet size in steps of one number to avoid
overheating and piston seizure.
NOTE: If the engine does not run properly despite a changed adjustment, look for mechanical faults and check the ignition system.
General information on carburetor wear
Engine vibrations subject the throttle slide, jet needle, float needle valve and the needle jet to extreme wear. Wear leads to malfunc-
tioning of the carburetor (e.g. over-enrichment). These parts should be replaced after 100 operating hours. The carburetor body, main
jet holder and the float support should be replaced after 200 operating hours.
32
Definitions
Mixture too rich:
Too much fuel in proportion to air.
Mixture too lean:
Not enough fuel in proportion to air.
2
1
Idling range A
Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the position
of the air control screw [1] and the air control screw [2]. Only make adjust-
ments when the engine is hot.
To this end, slightly increase the idling speed of the engine by means of the
main jet
jet needle
air control screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turn-
ing the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Create a round
and stable engine speed using the air control screw (basic position of the air
control screw = open by 1.5 turns). Then adjust to the normal idling speed
by means of the air control screw.
D
C
jet needle
Opening up B
Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the
throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-
throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened
and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds,
the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the
float needle is leaking.
idle jet
throttle valve
B
A
air control screw
idle adjusting screw
Part-throttle range C
Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throt-
tle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-
stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch.
If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised.
If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the
engine pings, adjust the idling range richer.
Full throttle range D
Operation with the throttle fully open (flat out). This range is influenced by the main jet and the jet needle. If the porcelain of the new
spark plug is found to have a very bright or white coating or if the engine rings, after a short distance of riding flat out, a larger main
jet is required. If the porcelain is dark brown or black with soot the main jet must be replaced by a smaller one.
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125 SX / SXS
JET NEEDLE
RANGE OF ACTION
TYPE
RICHER
LEANER
R1468D
R1469D
R1470D
R1471D
144 SX
RANGE OF ACTION
JET NEEDLE
TYPE
RICHER
LEANER
R1470H
R1471H
R1472H
33
Explanation of table - Example
250 SX / SXS
RANGE OF ACTION
JET NEEDLE
TYPE
Compared to the needle N1EH, the jet needle N1EJ is two steps leaner in
the range from the closed position of the throttle to 1/4 throttle. Otherwise,
there are no differences.
RICHER
LEANER
N1EF
N1EG
N1EH
N1EI
Pay attention to the correct needle designation when replacing the jet nee-
dle. detailed information on the type of jet needle for the respective models
can be found in the carburetor setting table.
N1EJ
Draining the float chamber of the carburetor
Following every wet-cleaning procedure, the float chamber of the carburetor
should be drained in order to remove any water that may have penetrated into
it. Water in the float chamber leads to engine malfunction.
Make sure you do this while the engine is cold. Close the fuel tap, and place a
cloth under the carburetor, which is capable of absorbing the leaking fuel. Unscrew
the plug [1] and clean it with compressed air. Then, mount the plug together with
the gasket, open the fuel tap, and check the float chamber for leaks.
Fuel is easily flammable and toxic. When handling fuel, be sure to exercise
the utmost caution. Never perform any work on the fuel system near open
flames or burning cigarettes. Always allow the engine to cool off first.
Immediately clean up any fuel which may have been spilled. Materials satu-
rated with fuel are also easily flammable. In case you ingested fuel or fuel
splashed into your eyes, consult a doctor immediately.
1
Dispose of the fuel properly.
60°
Checking the float level *
Arrange the carburetor diagonally at about 60° so that the spring in the float
needle valve is not pressed together. In this position, the edge of the float
should be parallel with the float chamber sealing surface (see illustration).
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Adjusting the engine characteristic via the ignition curve (125/144/250)
2 ignition curves (PERFORMANCE and SOFT) are stored in the digital box. The
PERFORMANCE ignition curve is activated in the condition at delivery. The SOFT
ignition curve can easily be activated by disconnecting the socket connector
under the tank.
To change the ignition curve, remove the seat and tank.
A) PERFORMANCE (higher engine performance) socket connector connected
B) SOFT (better driveability) socket connector disconnected
You can also change the ignition curve via the handlebar switch (Power Parts)
while driving.
B
A
Adjusting the engine characteristic via the auxiliary spring (250) *
The engine characteristic can be modified through various thicknesses of the
auxiliary spring [1]. An auxiliary spring designed for „good driveability“ (smooth
power application) is mounted in the condition at delivery.
3
One of the auxiliary springs can be mounted if you prefer an „even smoother
power application“ or an „aggressive engine characteristic“.
2
5
6
Auxiliary spring for good driveability (mounted in condition at delivery)
Spare part number 546.37.072.300, YELLOW color mark
1
Auxiliary spring for an even smoother power application (included in scope of
supply) Spare part number 548.37.072.100, GREEN color mark
4
34
Auxiliary spring for aggressive engine characteristic (included in scope of sup-
ply). Spare part number 548.37.072.000, RED color mark
To mount, tilt the motorcycle approx. 45° to the left, remove both screws [2],
lift off the closing cover [3] and remove the springs including the spring insert
[4] from the clutch cover. Pull both springs off the spring insert, mount the
auxiliary spring [1] and control spring [5] and slide both into the clutch cover
until the recess in the spring insert [4] engages in the rocker arm. Check the
O-ring in the closing cover mount the closing cover, ensuring that the dolly
screw [6] engages in the auxiliary spring.
2
2
Make sure you do not turn the dolly screw since this will impair the engine
characteristic.
Be careful not to turn the spring dolly [6], otherwise the engine characteris-
tic will deteriorate.
5
6
You can also change the engine characteristic through the interaction between
the ignition curve, auxiliary spring (250 only) and exhaust. The following table
shows examples of possible combinations. Further combinations can be
adjusted at random depending on the driving requirements.
250 SX 2008
Engine performance – –
–
Standard setting
Standard setting
performance
+
+ +
Driveability
+ +
soft
+
–
– –
Ignition curve
soft
performance
yellow
performance
red
Auxiliary spring (250/300) green
yellow
yellow
Exhaust
250 SX standard
250 SX standard
250 SX standard
250 SXS
250 SXS
Example of application extremely difficult
track conditions:
difficult track
conditions:
average track
conditions
good track conditions: special track
nonskid roadway, well conditions:
very selective, very
hard, hardly any trac- traction, tiring
tion, very tiring
selective, not much
prepared, MX special
stage
deep sand, very fast
track routing, very well-
prepared track
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MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Check transmission oil level (125/144 SX)
In order to check the transmission oil level the control screw [1] on the clutch
cover is to be removed. Oil should just barely escape from the inspection open-
ing when the motorcycle is in an upright position. If necessary, remove the
plug [2] and top up with oil (e. g. Motorex Top Speed 4T 15W50).
Transmission and clutch will be subjected to excessive wear and tear if you
use too little or low grade oil. Use only high-grade oil (e. g. Motorex Top Speed
4T 15W50).
1
Changing the transmission oil (125/144 SX) *
To change the gear oil warm up the engine and park the motorcycle on a hor-
izontal surface. Remove oil drain plugs [3] and [4] and drain the used oil into
an appropriate container. Clean the magnets of the oil drain plugs and mount
them together with the appropriate gaskets.
M12x1,5
M10x1
20 Nm
15 Nm
2
Fill in 0.7 l oil (e. g. Motorex Top Speed 4T 15W50), mount the plug [2] and
check the engine for leaks.
Transmission and clutch will be subjected to excessive wear and tear if you
use too little or low grade oil. Use only high-grade oil (e. g. Motorex Top Speed
4T 15W50).
35
4
3
Check transmission oil level (250 SX)
In order to check the transmission oil level the control screw [5] on the clutch
cover is to be removed. Oil should just barely escape from the inspection open-
ing when the motorcycle is in an upright position. If necessary, remove the
plug [6] and top up with oil (e. g. Motorex Top Speed 4T 15W50).
Transmission and clutch will be subjected to excessive wear and tear if you
use too little or low grade oil. Use only high-grade oil (e. g. Motorex Top Speed
4T 15W50).
5
Changing the transmission oil (250 SX) *
To change the transmission oil run the engine warm and set up the motorcy-
cle on a horizontal surface. Remove the oil drain screw [7] and drain used oil
into a container. Clean the magnet of the oil drain screw and reinstall oil drain
screw with seal.
6
M12x1,5
20 Nm
Pour in 0.7 litres engine oil (e. g. Motorex Top Speed 4T 15W50), replace
plug [6] and check engine for leaks.
7
Transmission and clutch will be subject to excessive wear and tear, if you use
too little or low grade oil. Use only high-grade oil (e. g. Motorex Top Speed
4T 15W50).
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CLEANING »
Clean your motorcycle regularly in order to maintain the beauty of its plastic surfaces.
The best manner would be to use warm water that has been mixed with a normal brand-name washing detergent and a sponge.
The hard dirt can be removed before washing with the help of a soft water jet.
If using a power washer, do not point the water jet at the electric components, plugs, cables, bearings, carburetor, etc. The high pres-
sure will cause water to penetrate into the components and can cause them to malfunction or lead to premature wear.
– Before cleaning with water, plug the exhaust pipe to prevent water ingress.
– You should use normal brand-name detergents to clean the motorcycle. Especially dirty parts should also be cleaned with the help
of a paint brush.
– After the motorcycle has been rinsed with a soft water jet, it should be dried by air pressure and a cloth. Then take a short drive
until the engine has reached the working temperature and also use the brakes. By warming these components, the residual water
can evaporate from inaccessable parts of the engine and the brakes.
– Slide back the protective covers on the handlebar-mounted instruments so that any water that may have seeped into this part of
the motorcycle is allowed to evaporate.
– After the motorcycle has cooled down, oil and grease all the gliding bearing parts. Treat the chain with a chain spray.
– To prevent failures in the electric system, you should treat the ignition lock, the emergency OFF switch, the short circuit button,
the light switch and the socket connectors with contact spray.
CONSERVATION FOR WINTER OPERATION »
In the event that the motorcycle is also used in winter and on roads where one has to expect salt spraying, you will have to take pre-
cautions against the aggressive road salt.
– clean the motorcycle thoroughly and let it dry after each ride
– treat the engine, carburetor, swing arm, and all other bare or galvanized parts (except for brake discs) with a wax-based anti-corro-
sion agent.
36
Keep the anti-corrosion agent from getting into contact with the brake discs, otherwise this will significantly reduce the braking power.
After rides on salted roads, clean motorcycle thoroughly with cold water and let it dry well.
STORAGE »
Should you wish to make a pause over a longer space of time, please observe the following instructions:
– Clean motorcycle thoroughly (see chapter: CLEANING)
– Change engine oil (old engine oil contains aggressive contaminants).
– Check antifreeze and amount of cooling liquid.
– Let the engine warm up again, close fuel cock and wait until the engine dies off by itself. In this way the carburetor jets are pre-
vented from becoming resin- clogged by the old fuel.
– Remove spark plug and fill in approx. 5 ccm of engine oil into the cylinder through the opening. Actuate kick-starter 10 times in
order to distribute the oil onto the cylinder walls and mount the spark plug.
– Let fuel flow out of tank into an appropriate container.
– Correct tire pressure.
– Lubricate bearing points of the control levers, footrests, etc. as well as the chain.
– The storage place should be dry and not be subjected to too big temperature fluctuations.
– Cover the motorcycle with an air permeated tarp or blanket. Do not use non airtight materials as a possible humidity might not be
able to escape and thereby cause corrosion.
It would be very bad to let the engine run for a short time during the storage period. The engine would not get warmed up enough and
the thus developed steam would condense during the combustion process and cause the valves and exhaust to rust.
USE AFTER A PERIOD OF STORAGE
– Fill up the tank with fresh fuel.
– Check the motorcycle as before each start (see driving instructions)
– Take a short, careful test ride first.
NOTE: Before you put your motorcycle away for the winter, you should check all parts for their function and wear. Should any service
jobs, repairs, or any refitting be necessary, you should have them carried out during the off-season (lower workload at mechanics' shops).
This way, you can avoid the long waiting times at your shop at the beginning of the next biking season.
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – CHASSIS 125/144/250 SX 2008»
CHASSIS
125 SX
144 SX
250 SX
Frame
Central chrome-moly-steel frame
Fork
WP – Up Side Down 4860 MXMA CC (Multi Adjuster Closed Cartridge)
300/335 mm (11.8/13.2 in)
Wheel travel front/rear
Rear suspension
Front brake
WP PDS 5018 DCC (Progressive Damping System)
Disc brake with carbon-steel brake disc Ø 260 mm (10.2 in), brake caliper floated
Disc brake with carbon-steel brake disc Ø 220 mm (8.7 in), brake caliper floated
Wear limit 2.50 mm (0.1 in) front / 3.50 mm (0.14 in) rear
Bridgestone M59 80/100-21" Bridgestone M59 80/100-21" Bridgestone M59 80/100-21"
1,0 bar (14 psi)
Rear brake
Brake discs
Front tires
Air pressure offroad
Rear tires
Bridgestone M70 100/90-19" Bridgestone M70 100/90-19" Bridgestone M70 110/90-19"
1,0 bar (14 psi)
Air pressure offroad
Fuel tank capacity
Final drive ratio
Available final sprockets
Chain
7.5 liters (1.98 USgal)
13:50 t
14:50 t
13:48 t
38t, 40t, 42t, 45t, 48t, 49t, 50t, 51t, 52t
5/8 x 1/4 "
Steering head angle
Wheel base
63°
63°
63,5°
1471 ± 10 mm (57.9 in ± 0.4 in) 1471 ± 10 mm (57.9 in ± 0.4 in) 1475 ± 10 mm (58.1 in ± 0.4 in)
925 mm (36.5 in)
Seat height, unloaded
Ground clearance, unloaded
Weight (without fuel)
390 mm (15.3 in)
90.8 kg (200.4 lbs)
390 mm (15.3 in)
90.8 kg (200.4 lbs)
385 mm (15.2 in)
95,4 kg (210.3 lbs)
37
STANDARD ADJUSTMENT – FORK
125/144 SX
250 SX
WP 4860 MXMA CC WP 4860 MXMA CC
14.18.7D.01
Compression adjuster 14 clicks
14.18.7D.03
14 clicks
Rebound adjuster
Spring
21 clicks
21 clicks
432.485.00.042W 432.485.00.044W
SAE 5 SAE 5
Fork oil
STANDARD ADJUSTMENT – SHOCK ABSORBER
125(144 SX
250 SX
WP 5018 PDS DCC WP 5018 PDS DCC
12.18.7D.01
12.18.7D.03
Compression adjuster
Low speed
14 clicks
1 turn
14 clicks
1 turn
High speed
Rebound adjuster
Spring
23 clicks
60-250
23 clicks
66-250
Spring preload
5 mm (0.19 in)
5 mm (0.19 in)
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – CHASSIS 125/144/250 SX 2008»
TIGHTENING TORQUES – CHASSIS
Collar screw, front wheel spindle
Colear screws brake caliper, front
Collar screws brake disks
M24x1,5
M8 (10.9)
M6 (10.9)
M8 (10.9)
M8 (10.9)
M8x25 (10.9)
M20x1,5
M20x1,5
M8
40 Nm
Loctite 243 + 25 Nm
14 Nm
Clamping screws, upper fork bridge
Clamping screws, lower fork bridge
Clamping screws, upper steering stem
Collar srcew top steering stem
Collar screw bottom steering stem
Clamping screws, fork stubs
Collar nut, rear wheel spindle
Hexagon nut, swing arm bolt
Collar screw, handlebar clamp
Allan head screw, handlebar support
Shock absorber, top collar screw
Shock absorber, bottom collar screw
Flat-head screws for subframe
Collared nuts for rear sprocket screws
Ball joint for push rod
17 Nm
12 Nm
Loctite 243 + 17 Nm
10 Nm
Loctite 243 + 60 Nm
15 Nm
M20x1,5
M16x1,5
M8 (10.9)
M10 (10.9)
M12 (10.9)
M12 (10.9)
M8 (10.9)
M8 (10.9)
M6 (10.9)
M10 (10.9)
M8 (10.9)
M6
80 Nm
100 Nm
20 Nm
Loctite 243 + 40 Nm
Loctite 243 + 70 Nm
Loctite 243 + 70 Nm
Loctite 243 + 40 Nm
Loctite 243 + 35 Nm
10 Nm
Engine mounting bolt
60 Nm
38
Engine brace
33 Nm
Screw adjusting ring spring preload shock absorber
Spoke nipple
8 Nm
M4.5 / M5
M6
5 Nm
Other screws on chassis
10 Nm
M8
25 Nm
M10
45 Nm
Other collar nuts on chassis
M6
15 Nm
M8
30 Nm
M10
50 Nm
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – ENGINE 125/144/250 SX 2008»
ENGINE
125 SX
144 SX
250 SX
Design
Liquid-cooled, single-cylinder, two-stroke engine with intake and exhaust control
Piston displacement
Bore / stroke
Fuel
124.8 ccm
143.6 ccm
249 ccm
54 / 54.5 mm
54 / 58.4 mm
66.4 / 72 mm
unleaded fuel with at least RON 95 (USA = Premium PON 91), mixed with high grade two stroke oil
Oil / gasoline ratio
1:40
1:40
1:60
when using high grade, two- stroke oil (Motorex Cross Power 2T).
Crankshaft bearing
Connecting rod bearing
Piston pin bearing
Piston
1 deep-groove ball bearing / 1 cylinder roller bearing
needle bearing
needle bearing
cast aluminum
Piston ring
2 half keystone rings
0.0 mm
2 half keystone rings
0.0 mm
two plain compression rings
0.0 + 0.1 mm
(upper edge piston-
Dimension „X“
Ignition timing
Spark plug
upper edge cylinder)
1.4 mm (0.055 in) BTDC
NGK BR9 ECMVX
0,60 mm
1.4 mm (0.055 in) BTDC
NGK BR9 ECMVX
1.9 mm (0.074 in) BTDC
NGK BR8 ECM
Electrode gap
Dimension „Z“
(height of the
control flap)
43.5 mm (1.68 in)
-
43.1 mm (1.69 in)
47.5 mm (1.87 in)
5500/min
Exhaust control start open
Exhaust control fully open
Primary drive
-
-
-
7000/7500/7900/min (red/yellow/green spring)
straight cut spur gears
23 : 73
39
Primary ratio
23 : 73
26 : 72
Available chain sprockets
Clutch
13t /14t for chain 5/8 x 1/4”
multiple disc clutch in oil bath, hydraulically operated
Motorex Hydraulic Fluid 75
6 speed, claw actuated
Motorex Hydraulic Fluid 75
6 speed, claw actuated
Motorex brake fluid DOT 5.1
5 speed, claw actuated
Transmission
Gear ratio
1st gear
13 : 32 „1S32“
13 : 32 „1S32“
“1S14”
“2S15”
14 : 28 “1S28”
15 : 24 “2S24”
18 : 24 “3S24”
21 : 24 “4S24”
22 : 21 “5S21”
2nd gear
„2S15“
15 : 30 „2S30“
„2S15“
15 : 30 „2S30“
3rd gear
„3S17H“ 17 : 28 „3S28H“ „3S17H“ 17 : 28 „3S28H“ “3S18”
„4S20H“ 20 : 28 „4S28“ „4S20H“ 20 : 28 „4S28“ “4S21”
4th gear
5th gear
„5S19H“ 19 : 23 „5S23H” „5S19H“ 19 : 23 „5S23H” “5S22”
„6S22H“ 22 : 24 „6S24H” „6S22H“ 22 : 24 „6S24H”
0,7 liter Motorex Top Speed 4T 15W50
6th gear
Gear lubrication
Available chain sprockets
Coolant
13Z / 14Z für Kette 5/8 x 1/4"
1.2 litres, 50% anti freeze, 50% distilled water, at least -25 °C (-13 °F)
Ignition system
Carburetor
Air-filter
KOKUSAN 2K-1
KOKUSAN 2K-1
stator 2K-1/flywheel 2K-2
flat-slide carburetor, carburetor setting see table
wet foam type air filter insert
BASIC CARBURETOR SETTING
125 SX
144 SX
250 SX
Carburetor
Keihin PWK 39
Keihin PWK 39
FJ011
Keihin PWK 36 S AG
FK0160
Carburetor setting mark
Main jet
98SA0/98SA1
188 (185/190)
202 (200, 205)
45 (48)
158 (155, 160)
45 (42)
Idling jet
45 (48)
Starting jet
85
85
85
Jet needle
R1469D (R1470D)
R1471H (R1470H, R1472H) N1EI (N1EH)
Needle position from top
Throttle valve
II
III
III
6.5
1
5.5
1.5
5.5
1.5
Air adjustment srew open
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – ENGINE 125/144/250 SX 2008»
TIGHTENING TORQUES - ENGINE
Flange bolts - cylinder-head (125/144 SX)
Flange bolts - cylinder-head (250 SX)
Nuts-cylinder base (125/144 SX)
Nuts-cylinder base (250 SX)
Flywheel collar nut
M7
18 Nm
M8
27 Nm
M8
30 Nm
M10
35 Nm
M12x1
M16x1,5 links
M18x1,5 links
M18x1,5
M18x1,5
M6
60 Nm
Nut for primary sprocket (125/144 SX)
Nut for primary sprocket (250 SX)
Nut for inner clutch hub (125/144 SX)
Nut for inner clutch hub (250 SX)
Bundschraube Kupplungsfeder
Oil drain plug
Loctite 243 + 130 Nm
Loctite 270 + 150 Nm
Loctite 243 + 130 Nm
Loctite 270 + 100 Nm
10 Nm
M12x1,5
M10x1
M10x1
M6
20 Nm
Oil drain plug (125/144 SX) clutch cover
Drain plug for water pump cover
Collar screw for water pump cover
Water pump wheel
15 Nm
15 Nm
Loctite 243 + 10 Nm
Loctite 243 + 6 Nm
10 Nm
M5
Crankcase and clutch cover bolts
Collar screws for ignition cover
Collar screws for exhaust flange
Spark plug
M6
M5
5 Nm
M5
6 Nm
M14x1,25
M5
25 Nm
40
Collar screws for ignition system
Collar screw for kickstarter lever
Loctite 243 + 6 Nm
Loctite 243 + 25 Nm
M8
Collar screw für shifting lever
Other screws
M6 (10.9)
M 5
Loctite 243 + 14 Nm
6 Nm
M 6
10 Nm
M 8
25 Nm
M 10
45 Nm
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CARBURETOR TABLE »
VERGASERREGULIERUNG
CARBURETOR SETTING
125 SX 2007 / 2008
KEIHIN PWK 39
MEERESHÖHE
ALTITUDE
TEMPERATUR - 20°C bis -7°C - 6°C bis 5°C 6°C bis 15°C 16°C bis 24°C 25°C bis 36°C 37°C bis 49°C
TEMPERATURE
-2°F to 20°F
19°F to 41°F 42°F to 60°F
61°F to 78°F
79°F to 98°F 99°F to 120°F
2,25
40
LSO ASO
LD IJ
1,5
45
1,75
45
2
42
2,5
38
3000 m
10000 ft
R1470D
2
NADEL NEEDLE
R1469D
2
R1470D
2
R1470D
2
R1471D
1
POS POS
2301 m
180
7501 ft
HD
LSO ASO
LD IJ
MJ
188
185
182
178
2
42
1,5
48
1,5
45
1,75
45
2,25
40
2,5
38
2300 m
7500 ft
R1470D
2
NADEL NEEDLE
R1469D
2
R1469D
2
R1470D
2
R1470D
2
R1471D
1
POS POS
1501 m
182
5001 ft
HD
LSO ASO
LD IJ
MJ
190
188
185
180
178
1,75
45
1
48
1,5
48
1,5
45
2
42
2,25
40
1500 m
5000 ft
R1470D
2
NADEL NEEDLE
R1468D
3
R1469D
2
R1469D
2
R1470D
2
R1470D
2
41
POS POS
751 m
185
2501 ft
HD
LSO ASO
LD IJ
MJ
192
190
188
182
180
1,5
45
1
50
1
48
1,5
48
1,75
45
2
42
750 m
2500 ft
R1469D
2
188
NADEL NEEDLE
R1468D
3
R1468D
3
R1469D
2
R1470D
2
R1470D
2
POS POS
301 m
1001 ft
HD
LSO ASO
LD IJ
MJ
195
192
190
185
182
1,5
48
0,75
52
1
50
1
48
1,5
45
1,75
45
300 m
1000 ft
R1469D
2
NADEL NEEDLE
R1468D
4
R1468D
3
R1468D
3
R1469D
2
R1470D
2
POS POS
Meeresniveau
Sea level
190
HD
MJ
198
195
192
188
185
LSO = Luftregulierschraube offen
LD = Leerlaufdüse
POS = Nadel Clip Position von oben
HD = Hauptdüse
ASO = Air screw open from fully-seated
IJ = Idling jet
POS = Needle clip position from top
MJ = Main jet
1
3
2
4
5
NICHT FÜR STRASSENBETRIEB
NOT FOR HIGHWAY USE
Kraftstoff: Super Bleifrei ROZ 95
Fuel: unleaded fuel with at least RON 95
USA = Premium PON 91
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CARBURETOR TABLE »
VERGASERREGULIERUNG
CARBURETOR SETTING
144 SX 2008
KEIHIN PWK 39
MEERESHÖHE
ALTITUDE
TEMPERATUR - 20°C bis -7°C - 6°C bis 5°C 6°C bis 15°C 16°C bis 24°C 25°C bis 36°C 37°C bis 49°C
TEMPERATURE
-2°F to 20°F
19°F to 41°F 42°F to 60°F
61°F to 78°F
79°F to 98°F 99°F to 120°F
LSO ASO
LD IJ
1,5
45
2
45
2
42
2,5
42
2,5
40
3000 m
10000 ft
NADEL NEEDLE
R1471H
3
R1471H
3
R1471H
2
R1472H
2
R1472H
1
POS POS
2301 m
7501 ft
HD
LSO ASO
LD IJ
MJ
202
202
200
198
195
1
45
1,5
45
2
45
2
42
2,5
42
2,5
40
2300 m
7500 ft
NADEL NEEDLE
R1470H
4
R1471H
3
R1471H
3
R1471H
2
R1472H
2
R1472H
1
POS POS
1501 m
5001 ft
HD
LSO ASO
LD IJ
MJ
205
202
202
200
198
195
1
48
1
45
1,5
45
2
45
2
42
2,5
42
1500 m
5000 ft
NADEL NEEDLE
R1470H
4
R1470H
4
R1471H
3
R1471H
3
R1471H
2
R1472H
2
42
POS POS
751 m
2501 ft
HD
LSO ASO
LD IJ
MJ
208
205
202
202
200
198
1
48
1
48
1
45
1,5
45
2
45
2
42
750 m
2500 ft
NADEL NEEDLE
R1469H
4
R1470H
4
R1470H
4
R1471H
3
R1471H
3
R1471H
2
POS POS
301 m
1001 ft
HD
LSO ASO
LD IJ
MJ
212
208
205
202
202
200
1
50
1
48
1
48
1
45
1,5
45
2
45
300 m
1000 ft
NADEL NEEDLE
R1468H
5
R1469H
4
R1470H
4
R1470H
4
R1471H
3
R1471H
3
POS POS
Meeresniveau
Sea level
HD
MJ
215
212
208
205
202
202
LSO = Luftregulierschraube offen
LD = Leerlaufdüse
POS = Nadel Clip Position von oben
HD = Hauptdüse
ASO = Air screw open from fully-seated
IJ = Idling jet
POS = Needle clip position from top
MJ = Main jet
1
3
2
4
5
NICHT FÜR STRASSENBETRIEB
NOT FOR HIGHWAY USE
Kraftstoff: Super Bleifrei ROZ 95
Fuel: unleaded fuel with at least RON 95
USA = Premium PON 91
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CARBURETOR TABLE »
VERGASERREGULIERUNG
CARBURETOR SETTING
250 SX 2008
KEIHIN PWK-S 36 AG
MEERESHÖHE
ALTITUDE
TEMPERATUR - 20°C bis -7°C - 6°C bis 5°C 6°C bis 15°C 16°C bis 24°C 25°C bis 36°C 37°C bis 49°C
TEMPERATURE
-2°F to 20°F
19°F to 41°F 42°F to 60°F
61°F to 78°F
79°F to 98°F 99°F to 120°F
2
38
LSO ASO
LD IJ
1
42
1
40
1
38
2,5
38
3000 m
10000 ft
N1EJ
2
NADEL NEEDLE
N1EI
3
N1EI
3
N1EI
2
N1EJ
1
POS POS
2301 m
152
7501 ft
HD
LSO ASO
LD IJ
MJ
158
158
155
150
1
38
1
42
1
42
1
40
2
38
2,5
38
2300 m
7500 ft
N1EI
2
NADEL NEEDLE
N1EH
3
N1EI
3
N1EI
3
N1EJ
2
N1EJ
1
POS POS
1501 m
155
5001 ft
HD
LSO ASO
LD IJ
MJ
160
158
158
152
150
1
40
1
45
1
42
1
42
1
38
2
38
1500 m
5000 ft
N1EI
3
NADEL NEEDLE
N1EH
4
N1EH
3
N1EI
3
N1EI
2
N1EJ
2
43
POS POS
751 m
158
2501 ft
HD
LSO ASO
LD IJ
MJ
162
160
158
155
152
1
42
1
45
1
45
1
42
1
40
1
38
750 m
2500 ft
N1EI
3
158
NADEL NEEDLE
N1EG
4
N1EH
4
N1EH
3
N1EI
3
N1EI
2
POS POS
301 m
1001 ft
HD
LSO ASO
LD IJ
MJ
165
162
160
158
155
1
42
0,75
48
1
45
1
45
1
42
1
40
300 m
1000 ft
N1EH
3
NADEL NEEDLE
N1EF
5
N1EG
4
N1EH
4
N1EI
3
N1EI
3
POS POS
Meeresniveau
Sea level
160
HD
MJ
168
165
162
158
158
LSO = Luftregulierschraube offen
LD = Leerlaufdüse
POS = Nadel Clip Position von oben
HD = Hauptdüse
ASO = Air screw open from fully-seated
IJ = Idling jet
POS = Needle clip position from top
MJ = Main jet
1
3
2
4
5
NICHT FÜR STRASSENBETRIEB
NOT FOR HIGHWAY USE
Kraftstoff: Super Bleifrei ROZ 95
Fuel: unleaded fuel with at least RON 95
USA = Premium PON 91
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SCHALTPLAN » WIRING DIAGRAMM »
44
C
red-white
D
I
red-black
green
red
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SCHALTPLAN » WIRING DIAGRAMM »
ENGLISH
DEUTSCH
ITALIANO
CABLE COLOURS
bl: black
ye: yellow
bu: blue
KABELFARBEN
bl: schwarz
ye: gelb
CAVO COLORATO
bl: nero
ye: giallo
bu: blau
bu: blu
gr: green
re: red
gr: grün
re: rot
gr: verde
re: rosso
wh: white
br: brown
or: orange
pi: pink
wh: weiß
br: braun
or: orange
pi: rosa
wh: bianco
br: marrone
or: arancione
pi: rosa
gr: grey
gr: grau
gr: grigio
pu: purple
pu: violett
pu: violetto
ENGLISH
FRANCAIS
ESPANOL
45
CABLE COLOURS
bl: black
ye: yellow
bu: blue
COULEUR DE CABLE
bl: noir
ye: jaune
bu: bleu
COLOR DE CABLE
bl: negro
ye: amarillo
bu: azul
gr: green
re: red
wh: white
br: brown
or: orange
pi: pink
gr: vert
gr: verde
re: rojo
re: rouge
wh: blanc
br: brun
or: orange
pi: rose
wh: blanco
br: marron
or: naranja
pi: rosado
gr: gris
gr: grey
gr: gris
pu: purple
pu: violet
pu: violeta
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INDEX »
Page
Page
Hand brake lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
How to change the handlebar position . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Instructions for your first ride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Kickstarter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Maintenance work on chassis and engine . . . . . . . . . .15
Operation instruments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Periodic maintenance schedule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Pivot bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Rebound damping of fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Refilling the front brake fluid reservoir . . . . . . . . . . .23
Refilling the rear brake fluid reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Refueling, fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Replacing fork springs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Replacing the front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Replacing the rear brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Running in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Serial Number location . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Shift lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Shifting/Riding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Shock absorber rebound damping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Short circuit button . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Starting off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Starting when the engine is cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Starting when the engine is warm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Stopping and parking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Technical Specifications – Chassis 125 / 250 . . . . . .37
Technical Specifications – Engine 125 / 250 . . . . . . .39
Tires, air pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
What to do when the engine is „flooded“ . . . . . . . . . .11
What you should check before each start . . . . . . . . . .10
Wiring Diagramm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Adapting the chain guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Adjusting the engine characteristic via the ignition curve . .34
Adjusting the engine characteristic via the auxiliary spring .34
Adjusting the free travel at the hand brake lever . . . . .23
Basic suspension setup for the weight of the driver . . .16
Bleeding the cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Bleeding the hydraulic clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Braking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Breather plug front fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Carburetor adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Carburetor table 125 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Carburetor table 144 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Carburetor table 250 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Choke knob . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Clutch lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Chain maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Chain wear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Changing the spring preloading of the shock absorber . .15
Changing the transmission oil (250) . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Changing the transmission oil (125/144) . . . . . . . . . .35
Changing the original position of the clutch lever . . . .30
Changing the oil level of hydraulic clutch 125/144 SX . .30
Changing the oil level of hydraulic clutch 250 SX . . . .30
Changing the spring preload on the telescopic fork . . .17
Changing the fork offset (caster) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Changing the basic position of the foot brake pedal . .25
Chassis number . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Checking the shock absorber and spring . . . . . . . . . .16
Checking the basic setup of the telescopic fork . . . . .17
Checking the brake fluid level - front brake . . . . . . . .23
Checking the front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Checking the rear brake fluid level . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Checking the rear brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Checking spoke tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Checking the float level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Checking the coolant level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Checking and adjusting the steering head bearing . . .19
Cleaning the dust sleeves of the telescopic fork . . . . .17
Cleaning the air filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Check chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Check transmission oil level (125/144) . . . . . . . . . . .35
Check transmission oil level (250) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Compression damping of fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Compression damping of shock absorber . . . . . . . . . . .8
Correct chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Conservation for winter operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Correct chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Determining the static sag of the shock absorber . . . .16
Determining the riding sag of the shock absorber . . . .16
Dismounting and mounting the front wheel . . . . . . . .26
Dismounting and mounting the rear wheel . . . . . . . . .27
Draining the float chamber of the carburetor . . . . . . .33
Driving instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Engine number, engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Exhaust system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Filler cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Fuel tap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
General information about KTM disc brakes . . . . . . . .22
General tips and wanrnings for starting the motorcycle .9
46
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*3211225en*
3211225en
KTM Group Partner
KTM-Sportmotorcycle AG
A–5230 Mattighofen
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